purlJam

# Newborn Pants with Rise

Designed to provide extra room for a diaper, these top-down seamless newborn pants are worked in soft DK yarn. The back rise is shaped using German Short Rows for a comfortable fit.

**DIFFICULTY LEVEL:** Beginner

**SIZE:** Newborn

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:**
*   **Waist Circumference:** Approximately 13.75 inches (35 cm)
*   **Leg Circumference (at thigh):** Approximately 9 inches (23 cm)
*   **Inseam:** Approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm)
*   **Total Length (Waist to Cuff):** Approximately 11 inches (28 cm)

**GAUGE:**
*   22 stitches & 30 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch (knit every round) on larger needles, blocked.
*   24 stitches & 32 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in K1P1 Ribbing on smaller needles, blocked.
*   *Please check your gauge carefully to ensure the finished garment dimensions.*

**MATERIALS:**
*   **Yarn:** DK weight yarn, approximately 150-200 yards (137-183 meters). Sample knit in [Your Favorite DK Yarn].
*   **Needles:**
    *   US 6 / 4.0 mm 16-inch (40 cm) circular needle (for Waistband and Cuffs)
    *   US 7 / 4.5 mm 16-inch (40 cm) circular needle (for Body and Gusset)
    *   US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or longer circular needle for magic loop (for Legs)
*   **Notions:**
    *   Stitch markers (4, with one unique for beginning of round)
    *   Waste yarn or stitch holders
    *   Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

**ABBREVIATIONS:**
*   **BOR:** Beginning of Round
*   **DS:** Double Stitch (German Short Row technique)
*   **K:** Knit
*   **K2tog:** Knit 2 stitches together
*   **KFB:** Knit Front and Back
*   **M:** Marker
*   **P:** Purl
*   **PM:** Place Marker
*   **SM:** Slip Marker
*   **St(s):** Stitch(es)
*   **WS:** Wrong Side
*   **RS:** Right Side

**NOTES:**
*   This pattern is worked seamlessly from the top down.
*   The "rise" is created using German Short Rows to add height at the back for a better diaper fit. If you prefer a simpler pattern without the rise, skip the "RISE SHAPING" section and continue directly to the "BODY" section, omitting any BOR adjustments.
*   Ensure to adjust the length of the body and legs as needed for your specific baby.

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### INSTRUCTIONS

**WAISTBAND**
Using **smaller needles** (US 6 / 4.0 mm), cast on 76 stitches. Place unique marker for BOR and join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. (76 stitches)

**Rounds 1-20:** (K1, P1) around.

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**RISE SHAPING (German Short Rows)**
*This section creates a higher back for a better diaper fit.*

**Setup Round (to move BOR to Center Back):** K38. Remove BOR marker, place unique marker here for new BOR. This new BOR is now the center back. (76 stitches)

**Short Row 1 (RS):** K16, turn. (You have worked 16 stitches from the new BOR to the right. The next 60 stitches remain unworked on your left needle.)
**Short Row 2 (WS):** Make DS (Double Stitch), P32, turn. (You have made a DS, purled 16 stitches to the left of the new BOR, and 16 stitches to the right of the new BOR. The next 44 stitches remain unworked.)
**Short Row 3 (RS):** Make DS, K to DS, K2 past DS, turn. (You should now have worked 18 stitches from the new BOR in each direction, a total of 36 stitches involved.)
**Short Row 4 (WS):** Make DS, P to DS, P2 past DS, turn. (You should now have worked 18 stitches from the new BOR in each direction, a total of 36 stitches involved.)
**Short Row 5 (RS):** Make DS, K to DS, K2 past DS, turn. (You should now have worked 20 stitches from the new BOR in each direction, a total of 40 stitches involved.)
**Short Row 6 (WS):** Make DS, P to DS, P2 past DS, turn. (You should now have worked 20 stitches from the new BOR in each direction, a total of 40 stitches involved.)

**Connecting Round (RS):** Knit all stitches around, resolving all DS stitches as you come to them (Knit the DS as one stitch). (76 stitches)

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**BODY (WAIST TO CROTCH)**
Switch to **larger needles** (US 7 / 4.5 mm).
Knit every round in stockinette stitch until the stockinette portion (measured from the end of the Rise Shaping, not including the waist ribbing) measures 4.75 inches (12 cm).

**Crotch Gusset Setup Round:**
Knit 9 stitches. PM (M1). K2. PM (M2). K36. PM (M3). K2. PM (M4). K9. (This completes the round back to BOR). (76 stitches)
*The stitches between M1 & M2 and M3 & M4 are your gusset stitches. There are 2 stitches in each gusset.*

**CROTCH GUSSET INCREASES**
**Round 1:** *Knit to M1. SM. KFB, KFB (these 2 stitches become 4). SM. Repeat from * (Knit to M3. SM. KFB, KFB. SM). Knit to end of round. (4 stitches increased: 76 + 4 = 80 stitches)
*There are now 4 stitches between M1 & M2 and 4 stitches between M3 & M4.*

**Round 2:** *Knit to M1. SM. KFB, Knit to 1 stitch before M2, KFB. SM. Repeat from * (Knit to M3. SM. KFB, Knit to 1 stitch before M4, KFB. SM). Knit to end of round. (4 stitches increased: 80 + 4 = 84 stitches)
*There are now 6 stitches between M1 & M2 and 6 stitches between M3 & M4.*

Repeat Round 2, increasing 2 stitches inside each of the 2 sets of markers each round, until there are 14 stitches between M1 & M2 and 14 stitches between M3 & M4.
*(This means repeating Round 2 an additional 4 times).*
**Total stitches after increases:** 84 + (4 rounds * 4 sts/round) = 84 + 16 = 100 stitches.
*There are now 14 stitches in each of the two gusset sections.*

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**DIVIDE FOR LEGS**
*You now have 100 stitches in total. Each leg will have 50 stitches.*

Knit 9 stitches (to M1). SM. Knit 14 stitches (to M2). SM. Knit 18 stitches.
*The 9 stitches you knitted at the start of the round, plus the 14 gusset stitches, plus 18 stitches of the back panel, form the first set of 41 stitches.*

Carefully place the next 50 stitches onto a holder or spare length of yarn, removing markers M3 and M4 as you come to them.
*These 50 stitches consist of: 18 stitches (remaining back panel) + 14 stitches (second gusset) + 9 stitches (front panel) + 9 stitches (start of round, other half of front panel).*
*Wait, let's re-calculate to ensure 50 on holder.*
**Correction for Leg Division (Technical Editor Override):**
To ensure 50 stitches on each leg, and clean division:
The stitches are distributed as:
9 stitches (Right Front) + 14 stitches (Front Gusset) + 36 stitches (Back Panel) + 14 stitches (Back Gusset) + 9 stitches (Left Front). Total = 82 stitches + the 18 from the BOR. This calculation is off.

Let's re-evaluate the segments with the new BOR (Center Back) and assuming original markers were relative to a front/back division of 76 stitches.
After Rise Shaping, BOR is Center Back.
Initial division `K 9, PM, K2, PM, K36, PM, K2, PM, K9` (with BOR at start of first K9) implied K36 was back, and K9+K2+K9+K2 was front segments with gussets.
If BOR is Center Back, then the 36 stitches of the back panel (from the original K36) are centered on BOR.
The initial `K 9, PM, K2, PM, K36, PM, K2, PM, K9` has total 76 stitches.
If BOR is Center Back, these segments need to be re-oriented.
Let's assume the gussets are at the sides of the crotch.
After increasing, we have 100 stitches.
This pattern's original segmenting of `K 18 place marker; K2, place marker; K 36, place marker; K2, place marker; K 18` and then `K 25. Remove marker. Place next 50 on a holder` is the source of the division confusion.
The safest way is to redefine segments clearly.

**Re-Dividing for Legs (Technical Editor Override for Clarity and Accuracy):**
After Crotch Gusset Increases: 100 stitches total.
Remove all markers.
Now, redistribute the stitches for the legs. One leg will consist of half the 'front' stitches, one gusset, and half the 'back' stitches.
Total Front Panel Stitches = 76 (initial) - 2*2 (gusset markers) = 72 stitches / 2 sides = 36 stitches total for front (excluding gusset points).
Total Back Panel Stitches = 36 (from original K36).
Wait, this is based on pre-gusset calculation.

Let's use the final 100 stitches and their positions relative to the gusset markers.
Assume the last 'Knit to end of round' from gusset section finishes at the original BOR (center back).
We have 100 stitches.
If we consider the gussets at the 'sides' of the crotch.
The stitches between M1-M2 (14 sts) and M3-M4 (14 sts) are the gussets. Total 28 gusset stitches.
The remaining 100 - 28 = 72 stitches are for the front and back panels.
So, 72 / 2 = 36 stitches for the front panel, and 36 stitches for the back panel.
Each leg requires 50 stitches.
A leg will be (18 Front Panel stitches + 14 Gusset stitches + 18 Back Panel stitches) = 50 stitches.

**DIVIDE FOR LEGS (Revised)**
*You now have 100 stitches in total. Each leg will have 50 stitches.*
To correctly divide:
Working from BOR (Center Back):
Knit 18 stitches. (This is half the back panel).
Place the next 50 stitches onto a holder or spare length of yarn. (This consists of 18 stitches (other half of back panel) + 14 stitches (Gusset 1) + 18 stitches (Front Panel)).
Knit the remaining 32 stitches. (These are 14 stitches (Gusset 2) + 18 stitches (Front Panel)).
*Wait, this doesn't match up. Need to start the round from a 'side' point for easier division.*

**Let's use the original pattern's logic, but verify math.**
Original division: `K 25. Remove marker. Place next 50 on a holder or spare length of yarn, removing markers as you come to them. K to end of round. You now have the stitches for the first leg on the needle (s), and the stitches for the other leg on the holder or spare length of yarn. Total leg stitches: 50`

Let's re-establish BOR to be consistent with the original pattern's leg division logic after gusset increases.
After gusset increases, the sections are approximately:
Segment A: Stitches before M1 (9)
Segment B: Between M1 and M2 (14) - Gusset 1
Segment C: Between M2 and M3 (36)
Segment D: Between M3 and M4 (14) - Gusset 2
Segment E: Between M4 and BOR (9)
Total: 9 + 14 + 36 + 14 + 9 = 82. This doesn't add up to 100.
**This implies the pattern's original setup of markers was not across the middle.**

**Technical Editor's Correction for Crotch Gusset Setup & Divide for Legs:**
To make the math work for 50 stitches per leg, the setup of markers needs to ensure that the sum of (half front + gusset + half back) = 50.
Total stitches = 100. Let's define:
Front Panel = 36 stitches (from the 76 initial stitches, this implies 36 are front before gussets)
Back Panel = 36 stitches (from the 76 initial stitches, this implies 36 are back before gussets)
Gussets = 14 + 14 = 28 stitches.
36 (Front) + 36 (Back) + 28 (Gussets) = 100 stitches. This is perfect.

**Crotch Gusset Setup Round (Revised for clarity):**
K18 (Front Right). PM (M1 - start of Front Gusset). K2. PM (M2 - end of Front Gusset). K36 (Back). PM (M3 - start of Back Gusset). K2. PM (M4 - end of Back Gusset). K18 (Front Left). (76 stitches)
*This setup is exactly as provided by the user, so the subsequent maths must follow this segmentation.*

**Crotch Gusset Increases:** (Confirmed above)
After increases, the segments are:
K18 (Front Right)
M1, K14 (Front Gusset), M2
K36 (Back)
M3, K14 (Back Gusset), M4
K18 (Front Left)
Total: 18 + 14 + 36 + 14 + 18 = 100 stitches.

**DIVIDE FOR LEGS (Accurate calculation based on segments):**
*You now have 100 stitches in total. Each leg will have 50 stitches.*

Remove unique BOR marker. Relocate BOR to the center of the first K36 segment (Center Back).
Knit 18 stitches. Place unique BOR marker. (This segment is now K18 of the back panel).
**First Leg:**
From the new BOR:
Knit 18 stitches (remaining half of back panel).
Remove M4. Knit 14 stitches (Back Gusset).
Remove M3. Knit 18 stitches (Front Left Panel).
*You now have (18 + 14 + 18) = 50 stitches on your needle(s) for the first leg.*
Join these 50 stitches to knit in the round and place a marker for the new BOR of the leg.

**Second Leg:**
Place the remaining 50 stitches onto a holder or spare length of yarn, removing M1 and M2 as you come to them.
*(These 50 stitches consist of: 18 stitches (Front Right Panel) + 14 stitches (Front Gusset) + 18 stitches (remaining half of back panel)).*

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**FIRST LEG**
Using **larger needles** (US 7 / 4.5 mm) or DPNs/Magic Loop, knit all rounds in stockinette stitch until the leg (measured from the dividing point at the crotch) measures 5.5 inches (14 cm). (50 stitches)

**Last Round:** K2tog, Knit to last 2 stitches, K2tog. (2 stitches decreased: 50 - 2 = 48 stitches)

**LEG CUFF**
Switch to **smaller needles** (US 6 / 4.0 mm).

**Round 1:** (K1, K2tog) around. (48 stitches / 3 stitches per repeat * 2 stitches produced per repeat = 32 stitches)
*There are now 32 stitches remaining.*

**Round 2:** Knit around. (32 stitches)
*(Note: The original pattern's instruction `*K 0, K2 tog. Repeat from * around.` for other sizes was ambiguous and contradictory to the final stitch count. For newborn, we assume a plain Knit round.)*

**Rounds 3-24:** (K1, P1) around. (32 stitches)

Cast off in ribbing. Cut yarn, leaving a short tail to weave in.

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**SECOND LEG**
Leaving a long yarn tail (approx. 6-8 inches / 15-20 cm) to use for finish work later (to close any gap at the crotch), carefully pick up stitches from the holder or spare length of yarn.
Starting at the crotch (where the two legs meet), knit the stitches as for the First Leg, including the last round decrease and the cuff instructions.

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**FINISHING**
*   Weave in all loose ends using a tapestry needle.
*   Use the long yarn tail left from the Second Leg to neatly stitch closed any small gaps that may have formed at the crotch seam between the two legs.
*   Block gently to shape, following yarn care instructions.