purlJam

<pattern>

# NORDIC FAIR ISLE PULLOVER
## A Beginner-Friendly Circular Yoke Sweater

---

### PATTERN INFORMATION

**Skill Level:** Beginner (with guidance for first-time colorwork)

**Finished Measurements:**
- Bust Circumference: 42" (107 cm)
- Body Length (hem to underarm): 15" (38 cm)
- Yoke Depth: 9" (23 cm)
- Total Length: 25" (64 cm)
- Sleeve Length: 18" (46 cm)
- Upper Arm Circumference: 14" (36 cm)

**Ease:** 2-4" positive ease recommended (for 38-40" actual bust)

---

### MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 4-ply / Fingering Weight Yarn
- **MC (Main Color - Navy):** 1,100 yards (1,006 m)
- **CC1 (Contrast Color 1 - Cream):** 250 yards (229 m)
- **CC2 (Contrast Color 2 - Red):** 150 yards (137 m)

*Total: Approximately 1,500 yards (1,372 m)*

*Suggested Yarn: 100% wool or wool blend for best colorwork results and blocking*

**Needles:**
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 32" circular needle for body
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle for sleeves and yoke
- US 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs or magic loop for small circumferences
- US 2 (2.75 mm) 16" circular needle for neckband

*Or size needed to obtain gauge*

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (8, including 4 in a contrasting color)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle
- Row counter (recommended)

---

### GAUGE

**CRITICAL: Swatch in Colorwork Pattern!**

28 stitches × 40 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm) in stranded colorwork pattern on US 3 needles, blocked.

**Gauge Math Verification:**
- Stitches per inch: 28 ÷ 4 = **7 sts/inch**
- Rows per inch: 40 ÷ 4 = **10 rows/inch**

⚠️ **Important for Beginners:** Your colorwork gauge will likely be tighter than your stockinette gauge. Always swatch using the colorwork chart, not plain knitting. Wash and block your swatch before measuring.

---

### ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbrev. | Meaning |
|---------|---------|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| MC | Main Color |
| CC1 | Contrast Color 1 |
| CC2 | Contrast Color 2 |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| rep | repeat |

---

### COLORWORK TECHNIQUE GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

**Reading Charts:**
- Charts are read from bottom to top
- All rounds are read from RIGHT to LEFT (since we're knitting in the round)
- Each square = 1 stitch
- Row numbers appear on the right side

**Holding Your Yarn (Two Methods):**
1. **One-Handed Method:** Drop one color, pick up the other (slower but easier for beginners)
2. **Two-Handed Method:** Hold MC in right hand, CC in left hand (faster with practice)

**Float Management:**
- The yarn not in use "floats" across the back of your work
- Keep floats loose! Tight floats will pucker your fabric
- Our charts never have floats longer than 5 stitches
- Spread stitches on your right needle to keep tension even

**Color Dominance:**
- The color held lower/in left hand will appear slightly more prominent
- Keep this consistent throughout for even appearance

**Tip:** Practice the peerie (small) border pattern before starting the main chart!

---

## COLORWORK CHARTS

### CHART KEY

| Symbol | Color | Description |
|--------|-------|-------------|
| □ | MC | Main Color (Navy) |
| ■ | CC1 | Contrast Color 1 (Cream) |
| ● | CC2 | Contrast Color 2 (Red) |

---

### CHART A: Peerie Border (8-stitch repeat × 5 rows)
*Used at bottom of yoke and between main motifs*

```
    8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
    ←←←←←←←← Read this direction (RS)
5 | □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ |
4 | ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ |
3 | □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ |
2 | ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ |
1 | □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ □ ■ |
    [  8-st repeat  ]
```

**Chart A Notes:**
- Simple checkerboard pattern - perfect for beginners!
- 8-stitch repeat works into all stitch counts in this pattern
- Maximum float: 1 stitch (no float management needed)

---

### CHART B: Nordic Star Motif (8-stitch repeat × 15 rows)
*Main yoke pattern*

```
     8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
     ←←←←←←←← Read this direction (RS)
15 | □ □ □ ■ ■ □ □ □ |
14 | □ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □ |
13 | □ ■ ■ □ □ ■ ■ □ |
12 | ■ ■ □ ● ● □ ■ ■ |
11 | ■ □ □ ● ● □ □ ■ |
10 | □ □ ● ● ● ● □ □ |
 9 | □ □ ● □ □ ● □ □ |
 8 | □ ■ ● □ □ ● ■ □ |
 7 | □ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ □ |
 6 | ■ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ ■ |
 5 | ■ □ □ □ □ □ □ ■ |
 4 | □ □ □ ■ ■ □ □ □ |
 3 | □ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □ |
 2 | □ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ □ |
 1 | □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ |
     [  8-st repeat  ]
```

**Chart B Notes:**
- Features a traditional Nordic star with accent color center
- Maximum float: 4 stitches (Row 10 and Row 6)
- Only 2 colors used per row (beginner-friendly!)
- Rows 1, 15: MC only (rest rounds - no colorwork)

---

### CHART C: Simple XOX Border (8-stitch repeat × 7 rows)
*Upper yoke pattern*

```
    8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
    ←←←←←←←← Read this direction (RS)
7 | □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ |
6 | □ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ □ |
5 | □ □ ■ □ □ ■ □ □ |
4 | □ □ □ ■ ■ □ □ □ |
3 | □ □ ■ □ □ ■ □ □ |
2 | □ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ □ |
1 | □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ |
    [  8-st repeat  ]
```

**Chart C Notes:**
- Classic "X" or diamond pattern
- Maximum float: 3 stitches
- Only MC and CC1 used

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### BODY

The body is worked in the round from the bottom up.

**Hem Ribbing:**

Using US 2 (2.75 mm) 32" circular needle and MC, cast on **296 sts**.

*Stitch count verification: 42" × 7 sts/inch = 294 sts, rounded to 296 for 8-st pattern repeat (296 ÷ 8 = 37 complete repeats) ✓*

Place BOR marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Rnd 1-10:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

*10 rounds of ribbing = 1" at 10 rows/inch ✓*

**Body Stockinette:**

Change to US 3 (3.25 mm) 32" circular needle.

**Setup Rnd:** Knit 148 sts, pm (side marker), knit 148 sts to BOR marker.

*Verification: 148 + 148 = 296 sts ✓*
*Each half = 148 sts = 21.1" (148 ÷ 7) ✓*

Continue in stockinette st (knit every rnd) with MC until body measures **15" (38 cm)** from cast-on edge, ending at BOR marker.

*15" × 10 rows/inch = 150 rows of body ✓*

**Divide for Underarms:**

**Next Rnd:** 
- K2, place next 8 sts on waste yarn (underarm), k to 4 sts before side marker
- Place next 8 sts (removing marker) on waste yarn (underarm), k to 4 sts before BOR marker  
- Place next 8 sts (removing BOR marker) on waste yarn (underarm)

*Underarm sts removed: 8 + 8 = 16 sts*
*Remaining body sts: 296 - 16 = 280 sts*
*Front: 140 sts / Back: 140 sts ✓*

Place body sts on waste yarn or leave on needle. Set aside.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2)

Sleeves are worked in the round from the cuff up.

**Cuff Ribbing:**

Using US 2 (2.75 mm) DPNs or 16" circular (magic loop) and MC, cast on **56 sts**.

*Starting cuff: 8" circumference × 7 sts/inch = 56 sts ✓*

Place BOR marker and join for working in the round.

**Rnds 1-10:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

**Sleeve Stockinette with Increases:**

Change to US 3 (3.25 mm) needles.

Knit 6 rnds even.

**Increase Rnd:** K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1. (2 sts increased)

Repeat Increase Rnd every 8th rnd, **20 times total**.

*Increase math: 56 + (20 × 2) = 56 + 40 = 96 sts ✓*
*Target upper arm: 14" × 7 sts/inch = 98 sts ≈ 96 sts ✓*

*Row count check: 10 (ribbing) + 6 (initial) + (20 × 8) = 10 + 6 + 160 = 176 rows*
*Length: 176 ÷ 10 rows/inch = 17.6" ≈ 18" ✓*

Continue even in stockinette until sleeve measures **18" (46 cm)** from cast-on edge, ending at BOR marker.

**Divide for Underarm:**

**Next Rnd:** K to 4 sts before BOR marker, place next 8 sts on waste yarn (underarm), removing marker.

*Sleeve sts remaining: 96 - 8 = 88 sts ✓*

Place sleeve sts on waste yarn or spare needle. Set aside.

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### YOKE

**Joining Round:**

Using US 3