purlJam

<pattern>

# NORWEGIAN SNOWFLAKE PULLOVER
*A Traditional Nordic Circular Yoke Sweater with Stranded Colorwork*

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## DIFFICULTY LEVEL NOTE

**Important**: While this pattern is designed to be approachable, it combines several techniques that are typically considered intermediate level:
- Stranded colorwork (carrying two colors)
- Circular yoke construction
- Float management
- Even tension across multiple colors

**If you're new to colorwork**, we strongly recommend:
1. Practicing stranded knitting on swatches first
2. Watching video tutorials on two-color knitting
3. Reading the "Colorwork Tutorial" section thoroughly before beginning

This pattern includes detailed instructions and charts to guide you through each step.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight wool or wool blend (approximately 256 yards/100g)
- **Main Color (MC)**: Natural, cream, or white
- **Contrast Color 1 (CC1)**: Navy, dark blue, or charcoal
- **Contrast Color 2 (CC2)**: Red or rust (optional for border accent)

**Yardage Requirements**:
- **Small**: MC 950 yds, CC1 250 yds, CC2 100 yds
- **Medium**: MC 1050 yds, CC1 280 yds, CC2 120 yds
- **Large**: MC 1150 yds, CC1 320 yds, CC2 140 yds
- **XL**: MC 1250 yds, CC1 350 yds, CC2 160 yds
- **2XL**: MC 1350 yds, CC1 380 yds, CC2 180 yds

**Needles**:
- US 7 (4.5 mm) - 16" and 32" circular needles, plus DPNs or preferred method for small circumference
- US 6 (4 mm) - 16" and 32" circular needles for ribbing
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers (10-12 total: 4 for yoke joining, 8 for decrease markers)
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders

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## GAUGE

**CRITICAL**: You must swatch in colorwork pattern, not plain stockinette!

**18 stitches and 22 rounds = 4 inches in stranded colorwork pattern** (blocked)

*Colorwork creates a denser, less stretchy fabric than plain stockinette. Your colorwork gauge may be 1-2 stitches per inch tighter than your stockinette gauge.*

**To swatch**: Cast on 30 stitches with larger needles. Work 6 rounds in MC, then work Chart A (border pattern) twice around, then work Chart B (snowflake) once. Work 6 rounds in MC. Bind off, wash in wool wash, block flat, and measure when completely dry. The center 4" should contain exactly 18 stitches.

If your gauge doesn't match, adjust needle size and swatch again. Proper gauge is essential for fit!

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## SIZES

Pattern is written for Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL).

**Finished Chest Circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"
*Designed with 4-6" positive ease for traditional Nordic fit*

**To choose your size**: Measure your actual chest circumference, add 4-6" for ease.

### FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | Chest | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Yoke Depth |
|------|-------|-------------|---------------|------------|
| S | 36" | 15" | 17" | 9" |
| M | 40" | 15.5" | 17.5" | 9.5" |
| L | 44" | 16" | 18" | 10" |
| XL | 48" | 16.5" | 18.5" | 10" |
| 2XL | 52" | 17" | 19" | 10.5" |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)
- **MC**: main color
- **CC1**: contrast color 1
- **CC2**: contrast color 2
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **pm**: place marker
- **sm**: slip marker
- **rnd(s)**: round(s)
- **rep**: repeat
- **RS**: right side
- **m1L**: make 1 left (lift bar between sts from front, knit through back loop)
- **m1R**: make 1 right (lift bar between sts from back, knit through front loop)

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## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
This sweater is worked from the bottom up in the round. The body is worked to the underarms, then set aside. Sleeves are worked separately to the underarms. All pieces are joined at the yoke, where stranded colorwork patterns are worked with evenly distributed decreases to create the circular yoke. The neckband is finished with ribbing.

### Colorwork Technique
- Carry the non-working color loosely across the back of your work (these are called "floats")
- Never let floats span more than 5-7 stitches without catching the unused color
- Maintain consistent tension - colorwork should have the same stretch as your ribbing
- The "dominant" color (held below/in left hand) will appear slightly more prominent
- Suggestion: Hold MC dominant (below) for consistent appearance

### Markers
You'll use markers to track the yoke join and decrease points. Place them as instructed and slip them every round.

### Stitch Counts
Key stitch counts are noted throughout with [✓ count] markers to help you verify your work.

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## COLORWORK TUTORIAL FOR BEGINNERS

### Understanding Stranded Colorwork

Stranded colorwork (also called Fair Isle) means knitting with two colors in the same row, carrying the unused color behind your work. Here's what you need to know:

**1. Float Management**
- "Floats" are the strands of unused yarn on the wrong side
- Keep floats loose! They must be as wide as the stitches they span
- If floats are too tight, your fabric will pucker and lose stretch
- Maximum float length: 5-7 stitches. The charts are designed with this in mind

**2. Tension Tips**
- Spread out the stitches on your right needle before starting the next stitch
- Give a gentle tug on both yarns every few stitches to even them out
- Colorwork fabric is naturally less stretchy than stockinette - this is normal!
- Your gauge will be tighter than plain knitting - always swatch in pattern

**3. Two Methods for Holding Yarn**

**Method 1: One-handed (Throwing)**
- Hold both colors in your right hand
- Pick up the color you need for each stitch
- Slightly slower but good for beginners

**Method 2: Two-handed (Most Efficient)**
- Hold MC in your left hand (Continental style)
- Hold CC in your right hand (English/throwing style)
- This is faster and helps maintain even tension
- Highly recommended - many free video tutorials available online

**4. Reading Charts**
- Charts are read from right to left, bottom to top (same direction you knit)
- Each square = one stitch
- Chart key shows which color for each symbol
- Row numbers on the right side
- Pattern repeats are marked with brackets

**5. Starting a New Color**
- Simply start knitting with the new color, leaving a 6" tail
- Weave in the tail later, or knit over it for a few stitches
- Don't tie knots!

**6. Common Problems & Solutions**
- **Puckering**: Floats are too tight. Spread stitches before each stitch.
- **Loose stitches at color changes**: Give a gentle tug after switching colors
- **Can see floats from the front**: Tension is uneven. Practice will help!
- **Tangly yarns**: Let your work dangle every few rounds to untwist

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## PATTERN BEGINS

### BODY

With MC and smaller 32" circular needle, cast on **160 (176, 192, 208, 224) sts**. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Ribbing**: *K2, p2; rep from * around for 2.5".

**Switch to larger 32" circular needle**.

**Setup Round**: Knit, increasing evenly spaced as follows:
- **Size S**: K20, m1R, *k20, m1R; rep from * 6 more times, k20. **[✓ 168 sts]**
- **Size M**: K22, m1R, *k22, m1R; rep from * 6 more times, k22. **[✓ 184 sts]**
- **Size L**: K24, m1R, *k24, m1R; rep from * 6 more times, k24. **[✓ 200 sts]**
- **Size XL**: K26, m1R, *k26, m1R; rep from * 6 more times, k26. **[✓ 216 sts]**
- **Size 2XL**: K28, m1R, *k28, m1R; rep from * 6 more times, k28. **[✓ 232 sts]**

**Body Stockinette**: Work even in stockinette stitch (knit every round) in MC until piece measures **14 (14.5, 15, 15.5, 16)"** from cast-on edge, or 1" less than desired length to underarm.

**Underarm Setup**:
- Next round: K **4 (5, 5, 6, 6)** sts, place these sts on scrap yarn (right underarm), k **80 (87, 95, 102, 110)** sts (front), place next **8 (10, 10, 12, 12)** sts on scrap yarn (left underarm), k **80 (87, 95, 102, 110)** sts (back), place remaining **4 (5, 5, 6, 6)** sts on scrap yarn with first set (right underarm).
- **[✓ 160 (174, 190, 204, 220) body sts remain on needle]**
- Set body aside (leave sts on needle or transfer to scrap yarn).

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### SLEEVES (make 2)

With MC and smaller DPNs or preferred method for small circumference, cast on **40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts**. Place marker and join to work in the round.

**Ribbing**: *K2, p2; rep from * around for 2.5".

**Switch to larger needles**.

**Setup Round**: Knit, increasing as follows:
- **All sizes**: K2, m1R, k to last 2 sts, m1L, k2. **[✓ 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) sts]**

**Sleeve Increases**: 
Continue in stockinette, working increase round (k2, m1R, k to last 2 sts, m1L, k2) every 8th round:
- **Sizes S & M**: 10 times total. **[✓ 62 (66, -, -, -) sts]**
- **Sizes L, XL & 2XL**: 11 times total. **[✓ - (-, 72, 76, 80) sts]**

Continue even in stockinette until sleeve measures **16 (16.5, 17, 17.5, 18)"** from cast-on edge,