purlJam

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# 🦧 Ollie the Orangutan
### A Knitted Amigurumi Pattern

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## AT A GLANCE

| | |
|---|---|
| **Difficulty** | Beginner |
| **Finished Size** | Approximately 7 inches (18 cm) tall when assembled |
| **Technique** | Knitting in the round (DPNs or Magic Loop); flat knitting for muzzle |
| **Construction** | Separate pieces seamed together |

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn (MC):** Worsted weight yarn in rust/orange — approximately 100 yards (92 m)
  *(Sample shown in a medium-orange, pumpkin-rust shade)*
- **Yarn (CC):** Worsted weight yarn in tan or cream — approximately 25 yards (23 m)
  *(Used for muzzle and inner ears)*
- **Needles:** US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles (DPNs), set of 4 or 5; or a 32-inch (80 cm) circular needle for Magic Loop
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch marker (1)
  - Tapestry/yarn needle
  - Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  - Two 9 mm black safety eyes *(or black yarn/embroidery floss for embroidered eyes — recommended for toys intended for children under 3)*
  - Black yarn or embroidery floss for nose and mouth
  - Scissors
  - Rust-orange and tan sewing thread (optional, for securing face disc)

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## GAUGE

**5.5 stitches and 7.5 rounds = 1 inch (2.5 cm)** in stockinette stitch, worked in the round.

> **Note for beginners:** For amigurumi, we knit more tightly than usual so the stuffing doesn't peek through the fabric. If your stitches look loose or you can see gaps, try going down one needle size. Gauge does not need to be exact for this project, but it will affect the finished size.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| kfb | Knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase: 1 stitch becomes 2) |
| k2tog | Knit two stitches together (decrease: 2 stitches become 1) |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit — a left-leaning decrease (2 stitches become 1) |
| rnd(s) | Round(s) |
| RS | Right side |
| WS | Wrong side |
| St(s) | Stitch(es) |
| St st | Stockinette stitch |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| rep | Repeat |
| MC | Main color (rust/orange) |
| CC | Contrasting color (tan/cream) |
| * … * | Repeat instructions between asterisks as indicated |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Working in the Round:** All pieces except the muzzle are worked in the round in stockinette stitch (knit every round). The right side faces outward at all times.
2. **Starting:** Use a simple loop cast-on (also called a backward-loop or e-wrap cast-on) for casting on small numbers of stitches at the beginning of each piece. Divide stitches evenly across your DPNs.
3. **Closing the Cast-On Tip:** The first round after casting on will feel a bit fiddly — this is normal! Work slowly and the stitches will settle.
4. **Stuffing:** Stuff pieces firmly but not so tightly that the knitted fabric distorts or puckers. Stuff a little at a time as you decrease.
5. **Seaming:** Use the yarn tail from cast-on or bind-off to seam pieces together. Mattress stitch or whip stitch both work well for beginners.
6. **Safety Eyes:** Attach safety eyes before closing a piece. Once the backing is clicked on, they cannot be removed. **For toys for children under age 3, embroider eyes with black yarn instead.**

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## INSTRUCTIONS

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### PIECE 1: HEAD
**Yarn:** MC (rust/orange)
**Make:** 1

CO 8 sts. Distribute across DPNs. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for beginning of round.

**Increase Section:**
- **Rnd 1:** *kfb* 8 times. — **16 sts**
- **Rnd 2:** *k1, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **24 sts**
- **Rnd 3:** *k2, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **32 sts**
- **Rnd 4:** *k3, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **40 sts**
- **Rnd 5:** *k4, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **48 sts**

**Body of Head:**
- **Rnds 6–15:** Knit every stitch. (10 rounds even) — **48 sts**

> **→ Tip:** This is a good time to count your stitches and make sure you have exactly 48 before continuing.

**Decrease Section:**
> **→ Safety Eye Placement:** Before beginning decreases, decide where to place the face. The front of the head is the side you want to be the face. The muzzle (CC oval) will be attached over the lower-center of the face. Place safety eyes approximately 3–4 stitches apart horizontally, on Round 11 or 12 (counting from the cast-on tip). Attach eyes now if using safety eyes, then continue.

- **Rnd 16:** *k4, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **40 sts**
- **Rnd 17:** *k3, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **32 sts**
- **Rnd 18:** *k2, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **24 sts**
- **Rnd 19:** *k1, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **16 sts**

**Stuff the head firmly** with fiberfill now. Make sure it is well-rounded and even.

- **Rnd 20:** *k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **8 sts**

Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through the remaining 8 stitches. Pull snug to close the opening. Fasten off and weave in end on inside.

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### PIECE 2: BODY
**Yarn:** MC (rust/orange)
**Make:** 1

CO 8 sts. Distribute across DPNs. Join, pm.

**Increase Section:**
- **Rnd 1:** *kfb* 8 times. — **16 sts**
- **Rnd 2:** *k1, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **24 sts**
- **Rnd 3:** *k2, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **32 sts**
- **Rnd 4:** *k3, kfb; rep from * 8 times. — **40 sts**

**Body Section:**
- **Rnds 5–18:** Knit every stitch. (14 rounds even) — **40 sts**

**Decrease Section:**
- **Rnd 19:** *k3, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **32 sts**
- **Rnd 20:** *k2, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **24 sts**
- **Rnd 21:** *k1, k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **16 sts**

**Stuff the body firmly** with fiberfill now.

- **Rnd 22:** *k2tog; rep from * 8 times. — **8 sts**

Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread through remaining 8 sts, pull tight to close. Fasten off and weave in end on inside.

> **→ Finished body dimensions:** Approximately 1¾ inches (4.5 cm) wide and 2¾ inches (7 cm) tall.

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### PIECE 3: ARMS
**Yarn:** MC (rust/orange)
**Make:** 2

> **→ Orangutan Note:** Orangutans have notably long arms! These arms are intentionally longer than the legs, giving Ollie his orangutan character.

CO 12 sts. Distribute across DPNs. Join, pm.

**Arm Tube:**
- **Rnds 1–22:** Knit every stitch. (22 rounds even) — **12 sts**

**Form the Hand:**
- **Rnd 23:** *k1, k2tog; rep from * 4 times. — **8 sts**
- **Rnds 24–25:** Knit every stitch. (2 rounds even) — **8 sts**

Stuff arm lightly with a small amount of fiberfill (arms do not need to be stuffed as firmly as the head and body).

- **Rnd 26:** *k2tog; rep from * 4 times. — **4 sts**

Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread through remaining 4 sts, pull tight to close. Fasten off.

> **→ Finished arm length:** Approximately 3¼ inches (8.5 cm).

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### PIECE 4: LEGS
**Yarn:** MC (rust/orange)
**Make:** 2

CO 12 sts. Distribute across DPNs. Join, pm.

**Leg Tube:**
- **Rnds 1–12:** Knit every stitch. (12 rounds even) — **12 sts**

**Form the Foot:**
- **Rnd 13:** *k1, k2tog; rep from * 4 times. — **8 sts**
- **Rnds 14–15:** Knit every stitch. (2 rounds even) — **8 sts**

Stuff leg lightly with fiberfill.

- **Rnd 16:** *k2tog; rep from * 4 times. — **4 sts**

Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread through remaining 4 sts, pull tight to close. Fasten off.

> **→ Finished leg length:** Approximately 2 inches (5 cm).

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### PIECE 5: EARS
**Yarn:** MC (rust/orange) for outer ear; CC (tan/cream) for inner ear (optional, or work both in MC)
**Make:** 2

> **→ Beginner Option:** Work both ears entirely in MC for a simpler version. For a more realistic look, work one in MC and one in CC, then hold them together (WS facing) when seaming to the head — the tan side shows as the "inner ear" when the ear cups slightly.

**Outer Ear (MC):**

CO 6 sts. Distribute across DPNs. Join, pm.

- **Rnd 1:** *kfb* 6 times. — **12 sts**
- **Rnd 2:** *k1, kfb; rep from * 6 times. — **18 sts**
- **Rnd 3:** Knit every stitch. — **18 sts**

BO all stitches loosely. Leave a 10-inch (25 cm) tail for seaming.

**Inner Ear (CC) — Optional:**

Work exactly as Outer Ear above. Leave a 10-inch (25 cm) tail for seaming.

> **→ If making two-toned ears:** Hold one MC ear and one CC ear together, wrong sides facing inward. Whip stitch around the edges together using the MC tail, leaving a small opening to push in a tiny pinch of fiberfill for a slightly rounded ear, then close. The CC (tan) side becomes the inner ear. Seam to head with the tan side facing outward.

> **→ Finished ear diameter:** Approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm).

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### PIECE 6: MUZZLE
**Yarn:** CC (tan/cream)
**Make:** 1
**Worked flat (back and forth), not in the round.**

This piece is worked in stockinette stitch flat to create a small oval shape that is seamed to the front of the face.

CO 6 sts.

- **Row 1 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **6 sts**
- **Row 2 (RS):** kfb, k4, kfb. — **8 sts** *(1 st increased each end)*
- **Row 3 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **8 sts**
- **Row 4 (RS):** kfb, k6, kfb. — **10 sts** *(1 st increased each end)*
- **Rows 5–8:** Work in St st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows), 4 rows even. — **10 sts**
- **Row 9 (RS):** k2tog, k6, ssk. — **8 sts** *(1 st decreased each end)*
- **Row 10 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **8 sts**
- **Row 11 (RS):** k2tog, k4, ssk. — **6 sts** *(1 st decreased each end)*
- **Row 12 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **6 sts**

BO all stitches. Leave a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for seaming to face.

> **→ Finished muzzle size:** Approximately 1¾ inches (4.5 cm) wide x 1½ inches (4 cm) tall.

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## ASSEMBLY

Follow these steps in order for the easiest assembly experience.

**Step 1 — Prepare the Face:**
With the knit (RS) side of the muzzle facing outward, pin the muzzle to the lower-center front of the head. The top edge of the muzzle should sit just below where you placed the safety eyes. Use the long yarn tail and a tapestry needle to whip stitch the muzzle to the head all the way around the edges, stuffing a very small amount of fiberfill underneath before you close the last inch (2.5 cm) to give the muzzle a slightly puffed look. Pull closed and fasten off.

**Step 2 — Embroider the Face:**
Using black yarn or embroidery floss:
- **Nose:** Embroider a small upside-down triangle (or a "Y" shape) at the upper center of the muzzle using 3–4 straight stitches. Approximately ¼ inch (6 mm) wide.
- **Mouth:** Embroider a small curved smile just below the nose, centered on the muzzle, using a single backstitch or chain stitch line.
- **Eyes (if not using safety eyes):** Embroider two small circles or French knots on the head above the muzzle, approximately 3–4 stitches apart. *(If you have already attached safety eyes in Step 3 of the Head instructions, skip this step.)*

**Step 3 — Attach the Ears:**
Position one ear on each side of the head, even with the eyes, at approximately Round 10 of the head. The bottom of each ear should align roughly with the eye level. Using the yarn tail, whip stitch each ear firmly in place all the way around its base. Fasten off and weave in ends.

**Step 4 — Attach the Head to the Body:**
Hold the head on top of the body, centered, with the face looking forward. The cast-on tip of the head (back of the head) should be to the back. Using a length of MC yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, whip stitch the head to the body all the way around the bottom of the head, working through both layers. Pull the stitches evenly to keep the head secure and level. Fasten off and weave in ends.

**Step 5 — Attach the Arms:**
Hold one arm against the side of the body, with the hand end pointing downward. The top of the arm (cast-on end) should sit at the upper sides of the body, just below where the head meets the body (approximately Round 3–4 of the body, counting from the top). Using the yarn tail or a fresh length of MC yarn, whip stitch the flat cast-on edge of the arm to the side of the body, working in a circle. Repeat for the second arm on the opposite side. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

> **→ Long-arm tip:** Orangutan arms naturally droop down and slightly forward — after attaching, you can gently bend and position them for a relaxed, natural look.

**Step 6 — Attach the Legs:**
Hold one leg against the lower front of the body, with the foot end pointing downward. Position the legs side by side on the bottom of the body, approximately ½ inch (1.5 cm) apart from center. Whip stitch each leg to the bottom of the body using yarn tail or fresh MC yarn. Make sure both legs are level so Ollie can sit upright. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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## FINISHING

- **Weave in all remaining yarn tails** on the inside of the toy using your tapestry needle. Trim any excess yarn close to the fabric.
- **Check all safety eye backings** are firmly clicked and seated if using safety eyes.
- **Optional color touches:** A tiny dab of tan/beige yarn worked in duplicate stitch or a small oval of tan felt glued above the muzzle area can give the appearance of the orangutan's distinctive pale facial skin. This is entirely optional.
- Give Ollie a gentle squeeze to redistribute stuffing evenly.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (APPROXIMATE)

| Piece | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Head | 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide, 2¾ in (7 cm) tall |
| Body | 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide, 2¾ in (7 cm) tall |
| Arms | 3¼ in (8.5 cm) long |
| Legs | 2 in (5 cm) long |
| Ears | 1 in (2.5 cm) diameter |
| Muzzle | 1¾ in (4.5 cm) wide, 1½ in (4 cm) tall |
| **Total assembled height** | **approx. 7 in (18 cm)** |

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## YARN YARDAGE SUMMARY

| Yarn | Amount Needed |
|---|---|
| MC — rust/orange worsted | ~100 yards (92 m) |
| CC — tan/cream worsted | ~25 yards (23 m) |
| Black yarn or embroidery floss | Small amount for face embroidery |

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## BEGINNER TIPS

- **Too many stitches on small DPNs feeling awkward?** Use Magic Loop with a long circular needle instead — it can be easier for small circumferences.
- **Holes at the start of pieces?** Weave the cast-on tail in a figure-8 pattern through the base stitches after closing the tip to close any small gaps.
- **Trouble reading your rounds?** Use a locking stitch marker or small safety pin to mark the beginning of each round.
- **Running out of yarn?** Russian join or a simple spit splice (for animal fibers) keeps joins invisible and secure in amigurumi.

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*Happy knitting! 🦧*

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