purlJam

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# 🐚 Omanyte Amigurumi
### One-Piece Pokémon Plush — Easy Level

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This pattern creates an adorable Omanyte, the Rock/Water-type fossil Pokémon, as a single continuous piece. The blue body is worked from the bottom up, the shell texture is created with back-loop-only single crochet after a yarn color change, and the tentacles are added last by attaching yarn directly to the finished body. No magic ring is used — all rounds begin with a **ch-2 start**.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 3–3.5 inches (7.5–9 cm) tall, 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide
**Difficulty:** Easy
**Technique:** Amigurumi (continuous rounds)

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Yarn A (Body) | Worsted weight (size 4), **blue** — approx. 25 yds (23 m) |
| Yarn B (Shell) | Worsted weight (size 4), **tan or brown** — approx. 20 yds (18 m) |
| Yarn C (Tentacles) | Worsted weight (size 4), **blue** (same as Yarn A) — approx. 10 yds (9 m) |
| Hook | US E-4 (3.5 mm) or US F-5 (3.75 mm) |
| Safety Eyes | 9 mm black safety eyes × 2 |
| Stuffing | Polyester fiberfill |
| Stitch Marker | × 1 |
| Yarn Needle | For weaving ends |
| Scissors | — |

> 💡 **Yarn Tip:** Using the same blue yarn for Yarn A and Yarn C saves waste — simply cut a separate working length of approx. 10 yards for the tentacles before beginning.

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## GAUGE

**4 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**
**4 rows/rounds = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**
Worked with US E-4 (3.5 mm) hook in single crochet.

> Gauge is not critical for toys, but working tightly prevents stuffing from showing through. If your stitches look loose or gappy, go down one hook size.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | invisible decrease — insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops |
| BLO | back loop only |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| [ ] | stitch count at end of round |
| ( ) × # | repeat instructions the number of times indicated |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Ch-2 Start (Replaces Magic Ring)
This pattern uses a **ch-2 start** instead of a magic ring:
1. Chain 2.
2. Insert hook into the **1st chain** (the one farther from your hook).
3. Work **6 sc** into that chain.
4. Pull the starting tail snugly to close the small hole.
5. Place stitch marker in the first stitch of the next round.

> ⚠️ Always insert into the **1st ch** of your ch-2, not the 2nd. The 2nd chain is just a turning placeholder.

### Back Loop Only (BLO) Single Crochet
For shell texture rounds, insert your hook only into the **back loop** (the loop farthest from you) of each stitch. This creates a visible ridge on the surface that mimics shell segments.

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
Rather than a standard sc2tog, use the invisible decrease for a smooth, professional finish:
1. Insert hook through the **front loop only** of the next stitch.
2. Without completing the stitch, also insert through the **front loop only** of the following stitch.
3. Yarn over, pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook).
4. Yarn over, pull through both loops to complete.

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## PATTERN NOTES

- Work in **continuous rounds** (do not join or turn unless instructed). Use a stitch marker to track the start of each round, moving it up as you go.
- **Stuff firmly** before closing — it's difficult to add stuffing later.
- Install safety eyes **before** the body is closed.
- When changing yarn color, make the switch on the **last pull-through** of the final sc in the previous round (the new color becomes the yarn over for that last loop pull).
- Read each round fully before beginning it.

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## PATTERN

### THE BODY (Worked in One Piece, Bottom Up)

**— BLUE BODY BASE (Yarn A) —**

**Rnd 1 (Ch-2 Start):**
Using Yarn A (blue), ch 2. Work 6 sc into the 1st ch. Pull tail to close. Place stitch marker. **[6]**

**Rnd 2:**
Inc in each st around. **[12]**
*(2 sc in st 1, 2 sc in st 2 … 2 sc in st 12 — you've worked 12 increases = 12 new sts)*

**Rnd 3:**
(Sc, inc) × 6. **[18]**
*(sc in next st, inc in next st — repeat 6 times)*

**Rnd 4:**
(2 sc, inc) × 6. **[24]**
*(sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st — repeat 6 times)*

> ✅ **Stitch Count Check:** You should have exactly **24 stitches** on your hook/marker at the end of Rnd 4.

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**Rnds 5–7 (3 even rounds):**
Sc in each st around. **[24]** *(work these 3 rounds with no increases or decreases)*

> 💡 These three plain rounds build the height of the blue body before the shell begins. Count carefully — you are working 3 full rounds of 24 sc each.

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**— COLOR CHANGE TO SHELL (Switch to Yarn B) —**

On the **last stitch of Rnd 7**, make your color change:
- Insert hook, pull up loop in Yarn A (blue).
- Drop Yarn A (leave a 6-inch tail for weaving).
- Yarn over with **Yarn B** (tan/brown) and pull through both loops to complete the sc.
- Continue working with Yarn B from this point.

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**— SHELL SECTION (Yarn B) —**

**Rnd 8 (Increase Round):**
(4 sc, inc) × 6. **[30]**
*(sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st — repeat 6 times; 6 increases made: 24 + 6 = 30)*

> ✅ **Stitch Count Check:** You should have exactly **30 stitches** at the end of Rnd 8.

**Rnds 9–11 (BLO Shell Texture Rounds):**
Working in **BLO only**: sc in each st around. **[30]**
*(3 rounds of 30 BLO sc — each round creates a visible ridge for shell texture)*

> 💡 **Visual Check:** After Rnd 9, you should see your first raised ridge line running around the circumference. After Rnd 10 and 11, two more ridges appear. This is the shell texture.

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**— 👁️ ADD SAFETY EYES NOW —**

Before closing the body, attach the safety eyes:
- Place eyes on the **blue body section**, between Rnds 5 and 6 (or roughly at the halfway point of the blue portion).
- Space them approximately **8–10 stitches apart** (just under halfway around the front).
- Press washers firmly onto the shanks from the inside.

> ⚠️ Safety eyes must be inserted **before** decreasing to close. Once the opening is too small, you cannot reach inside.

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**— CLOSING THE BODY (Yarn B continues) —**

**Rnd 12:**
(3 sc, dec) × 6. **[24]**
*(sc in next 3 sts, invisible dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times; 30 − 6 = 24)*

**— BEGIN STUFFING —**
Add a generous amount of fiberfill now. Stuff the body firmly, shaping it into a rounded dome. The bottom (blue side) should be flatter; the top (shell side) should be rounder.

**Rnd 13:**
(2 sc, dec) × 6. **[18]**
*(sc in next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times; 24 − 6 = 18)*

**Rnd 14:**
(Sc, dec) × 6. **[12]**
*(sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times; 18 − 6 = 12)*

**— ADD MORE STUFFING —**
Add extra stuffing now if needed to keep the top dome firm and round.

**Rnd 15:**
Dec × 6. **[6]**
*(invisible decrease over every 2 sts — repeat 6 times; 12 − 6 = 6)*

**Fasten off**, leaving a 10-inch tail. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail through the front loops of all 6 remaining stitches and pull firmly to close the hole completely. Knot securely. Weave in end.

> ✅ **Final Body Stitch Count Verification:**
> - Rnd 1: 6 | Rnd 2: 12 | Rnd 3: 18 | Rnd 4: 24
> - Rnds 5–7: 24 (×3 rounds)
> - Rnd 8: 30 | Rnds 9–11: 30 (×3 BLO rounds)
> - Rnd 12: 24 | Rnd 13: 18 | Rnd 14: 12 | Rnd 15: 6 ✅

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### TENTACLES (Make 8)

Omanyte has 8 tentacles arranged around the underside (blue base) of the body. Each tentacle is made by attaching yarn directly to the body — no separate pieces to sew on.

**Tentacle Placement:**
Identify 8 evenly-spaced stitches around the **bottom edge** of the body (the blue section, near Rnd 1–2 area). With 24 stitches around the base, space tentacle attachment points approximately **every 3 stitches**.

> 💡 **Tip:** Before attaching, use stitch markers or a pen to mark your 8 anchor points evenly around the base. This ensures symmetrical tentacle placement.

**To Make Each Tentacle:**

1. Cut a **12-inch length** of Yarn C (blue).
2. Fold it in half to find the midpoint.
3. Insert your hook through the marked stitch on the body from front to back.
4. Pull the **folded midpoint** of the yarn through the stitch to form a loop on your hook — this is your slip stitch attachment.
5. Working with the two yarn ends now hanging from the attachment point as a doubled strand OR working with a single strand as follows:

> **Simplified Single-Strand Method (recommended for beginners):**
> 1. With a fresh length of Yarn C, make a slip knot and attach to the hook.
> 2. Insert hook into the marked body stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch AND the slip knot loop — **sl st joined**.
> 3. **Ch 6.**
> 4. **Sc in the 2nd ch from hook** and in each remaining ch across. *(5 sc total — working back toward the body)*
> 5. Sl st into the base stitch on the body to anchor.
> 6. Fasten off, leaving a 4-inch tail. Weave tail through the ch at the base of the tentacle to secure.

**Repeat** for all 8 tentacles.

> ✅ **Tentacle Stitch Count:** Ch 6 → sc in 2nd ch from hook = 1 sc, sc in next 4 ch = 4 sc → **5 sc per tentacle** ✅

> 💡 For slightly curlier tentacles, sc into the **back bump** of each chain instead of the top loop, then lightly steam-block with an iron held 2 inches away.

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## FINISHING & ASSEMBLY

1. **Weave in all ends** securely using a yarn needle, burying tails inside the body where possible.
2. **Trim** any excess tail yarn close to the surface.
3. **Shape** the body gently with your hands — the blue base should sit flat, the tan/brown shell dome should be rounded on top.
4. **Optional — Eye Highlights:** Using white embroidery thread or white yarn, add a small French knot or straight stitch highlight dot to each safety eye for extra expressiveness.
5. **Optional — Shell Spiral Detail:** Using a darker brown yarn and a yarn needle, embroider a simple spiral line on the top of the shell section using surface slip stitch or backstitch for Omanyte's iconic shell pattern.

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## SCHEMATIC (Text Diagram)

```
        [ Shell Top — Yarn B ]
       /    BLO Ridges         \
      |   Rnds 9–11 (30 sts)   |
      |    Rnd 8: Inc → 30      |
       \                       /
        — Color Change Line —
       /                       \
      |  Rnds 5–7: Even (24)    |
      |  ← Safety Eyes Here →   |
      |  Rnd 4: Inc → 24        |
      |  Rnd 3: Inc → 18        |
      |  Rnd 2: Inc → 12        |
      |  Rnd 1: Ch-2 → 6        |
       \ ______________________/
        [ Blue Bottom — Yarn A ]
        ||||||||||||||||||||||||
        8 Tentacles (ch-6 each)
```

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## QUICK REFERENCE — ROUND SUMMARY

| Round | Yarn | Instructions | Count |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A (Blue) | Ch-2 start, 6 sc | **6** |
| 2 | A | Inc × 6 | **12** |
| 3 | A | (sc, inc) × 6 | **18** |
| 4 | A | (2 sc, inc) × 6 | **24** |
| 5 | A | Sc around | **24** |
| 6 | A | Sc around | **24** |
| 7 | A | Sc around *(color change on last st)* | **24** |
| 8 | B (Tan) | (4 sc, inc) × 6 | **30** |
| 9 | B | BLO sc around | **30** |
| 10 | B | BLO sc around | **30** |
| 11 | B | BLO sc around | **30** |
| — | — | *Add safety eyes now* | — |
| 12 | B | (3 sc, dec) × 6 | **24** |
| 13 | B | (2 sc, dec) × 6 | **18** |
| 14 | B | (sc, dec) × 6 | **12** |
| 15 | B | Dec × 6 | **6** |
| — | — | Fasten off, close | — |
| — | C (Blue) | Attach 8 tentacles: sl st, ch 6, sc in each ch | — |

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Hole at ch-2 start is too big | Pull the starting tail more firmly before weaving in |
| BLO ridges aren't showing clearly | Make sure you're consistently inserting into only the back loop; try going down one hook size |
| Tentacles curl too much | This is normal and cute! For straighter tentacles, block with light steam |
| Tentacles are uneven | Pre-mark all 8 attachment points with stitch markers before attaching any |
| Stuffing visible through stitches | Work more tightly or go down one hook size |
| Body leans to one side | Ensure the base (Rnd 1) is centered when setting the toy down; re-stuff and reshape |

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*Pattern designed for personal use. For the Pokémon fan in your life — Omanyte, the spiral Pokémon! 🐚*