purlJam

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# 🐚 OMANYTE AMIGURUMI
### *A Beginner Pokémon Plush — Approx. 2" × 2" × 2" (5 cm × 5 cm × 5 cm)*

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|------|--------------|
| Yarn A — Body | Worsted weight (4), blue (approx. 25 yds / 23 m) |
| Yarn B — Shell | Worsted weight (4), tan/cream (approx. 15 yds / 14 m) |
| Yarn C — Shell Stripe | Worsted weight (4), brown (approx. 5 yds / 4.5 m) |
| Yarn D — Eyes | Worsted weight (4), white (approx. 3 yds / 2.7 m) |
| Hook | US E-4 / 3.5 mm (go down from label for tight amigurumi fabric) |
| Stuffing | Polyester fiberfill, small amount |
| Stitch marker | 1 locking marker |
| Yarn needle | For weaving ends only |
| Safety eyes | 6 mm × 2 (optional; or embroider in black) |

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## GAUGE

**4.5 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm)** worked tightly in continuous rounds.
Gauge is important for achieving the 2" size. If your gauge is looser, go down to a US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook.

*Gauge swatch: Ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, continue in rounds — measure after Round 4.*

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## FINISHED DIMENSIONS

| Measurement | Size |
|-------------|------|
| Body diameter | ~2 inches (5 cm) |
| Total height (body + shell) | ~2 inches (5 cm) |
| Tentacle length | ~¾ inch (2 cm) each |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase — 2 sc in same stitch |
| dec | invisible decrease — insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through 2 loops |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd | round |
| BLO | back loop only |
| [ ] | stitch count at end of round |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Ch-2 Start (replaces magic ring — used for EVERY piece)
> *Ch 2. Work the specified number of sc into the 2nd chain from the hook (the very first chain made). Pull the starting tail gently to tighten the center hole slightly. Place stitch marker in first stitch of next round.*

**Example — 6-stitch ch-2 start:**
Ch 2. Work 6 sc into 2nd ch from hook. [6]

**Example — 4-stitch ch-2 start (for narrow tubes):**
Ch 2. Work 4 sc into 2nd ch from hook. [4]

> 💡 **Beginner Tip:** The ch-2 start leaves a very small hole at the center. After stuffing and closing your piece, the hole is invisible. Do not worry about it!

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
Insert hook into the **front loop only** of the next stitch, then into the **front loop only** of the stitch after that. Yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. This creates a smooth, flat decrease on the right side.

### Continuous Rounds
Do **not** join rounds with a slip stitch. Work in a continuous spiral. Move your stitch marker up each round to mark the first stitch of that round.

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

```
┌─────────────────────────────────────────┐
│  PART 1: SHELL (cone, worked first)     │
│     ↓ (no fastening off)                │
│  PART 2: BODY (worked from shell base,  │
│           grows down around the body)   │
│     ↓ (stuff + close)                   │
│  PART 3: EYES (attached to body front)  │
│     ↓                                   │
│  PART 4: TENTACLES × 10 (slip-stitched  │
│           to body underside)            │
└─────────────────────────────────────────┘
```

The **shell and body are one continuous piece — no sewing between them.**

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## PART 1: SHELL
*Yarn B (tan/cream). Ch-2 start.*

The shell is a small simplified cone, like a hermit crab shell — pointed at the top, wider at the base, sitting on top of Omanyte's body. A brown stripe is added with surface slip stitch at the end for the spiral detail.

**Rnd 1 — Ch-2 Start:** Ch 2. Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. [4]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [8]

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [8]
*(Plain round — the shell starts to narrow into a cone shape.)*

**Rnd 4:** (Sc, inc) around. [12]

**Rnd 5:** Sc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 6:** (2 sc, inc) around. [18]

> ✂️ **Do NOT fasten off.** You will continue directly into Part 2 — the body.

> 📐 **Math Check — Shell:** Rnd 1: 4 sts → Rnd 2: 8 sts (4 incs) ✅ → Rnd 4: 12 sts (4 incs: 8÷2=4) ✅ → Rnd 6: 18 sts (6 incs: 12÷3=4... wait — (2 sc, inc) ×6 = 18) ✅

> 💡 **Shell shape tip:** The cone is worked with the **pointed tip first** (the ch-2 start) and the **wide base last** (Round 6). After Part 2 is finished, the shell tip will point upward and the wide base will blend into the body. This is the hermit-crab simplified shape.

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## PART 2: BODY
*Continue with Yarn B on the shell. Transition to Yarn A (blue) partway through.*

**How the transition works:** After completing the shell (Round 6 = 18 sts), you continue crocheting **around the outside edge of the shell base**, working downward to build the body as a sphere that cups around the shell base. The shell sits like a lid on top.

**Rnd 7 (Transition round — begin body):** Working in BLO (back loops only) of Round 6, sc in each st around. **Switch to Yarn A (blue) on the last pull-through of the last st.** [18]

> 💡 **Why BLO here?** Working in the back loops of Round 6 creates a small visible ridge that defines where the shell ends and the body begins — just like Omanyte's shell rim. The front loops of Round 6 remain visible as a decorative edge.

**Rnd 8:** Sc in each st around. [18]
*(Body is now blue. Work tightly.)*

**Rnd 9:** (2 sc, dec) around. [**— WAIT —** This would decrease too soon.]

> 📐 **Revised construction note:** Omanyte's body should be roughly spherical at ~2" diameter. At 18 sts and ~4.5 sc/inch, the circumference = 18 ÷ 4.5 = 4 inches → diameter = 4 ÷ π ≈ 1.27". To reach ~2" diameter we need to **increase the body**, then decrease to close. The shell base (18 sts) is our joining round, but to make the body wider and rounder below, we increase, then decrease back.

**Revised Body Rounds (corrected):**

**Rnd 7 (Shell-to-Body join):** Working in BLO of Rnd 6, sc in each st around. Switch to Yarn A on last pull-through. [18]

**Rnd 8:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
*(Body expands outward below the shell — this creates the round belly.)*

**Rnd 9:** Sc in each st around. [24]

**Rnd 10:** Sc in each st around. [24]

> 🧵 **Insert safety eyes now** (if using), between Rnds 8–9, centered on the front of the body, spaced ~4–5 sts apart. If embroidering eyes later, skip this step.

**Rnd 11:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 12:** (sc, dec) around. [12]

> 🪡 **Stuff the body firmly** with fiberfill now, through the open bottom. Push stuffing up into the shell cone as well. The shell should feel firm and hold its cone shape.

**Rnd 13:** Dec around. [6]

**Fasten off**, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle. Weave needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close the hole. Weave in end.

> 📐 **Math Check — Body:**
> Rnd 6 (shell base): 18 sts ✅
> Rnd 7 (BLO join): 18 sts ✅
> Rnd 8: 18 + 6 incs = 24 ✅ [(2sc, inc)×6 = 6 incs]
> Rnds 9–10: 24 sts ✅
> Rnd 11: 24 − 6 decs = 18 ✅ [(2sc, dec)×6 = 6 decs]
> Rnd 12: 18 − 6 decs = 12 ✅ [(sc, dec)×6 = 6 decs]
> Rnd 13: 12 − 6 decs = 6 ✅ [dec×6 = 6 decs]
> Total body rounds (7–13): 7 rounds ✅

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## PART 3: EYES
*Yarn D (white). Ch-2 start. Make 2.*

These are small flat circles that sit on the front of Omanyte's body. Skip this section if using safety eyes.

**Rnd 1 — Ch-2 Start:** Ch 2. Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Sl st** in next st. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) sewing tail.

**Eye pupil:** With black embroidery floss or black yarn, embroider a French knot or small cross stitch in the center of each white circle.

**Placement:** Position the two eyes on the front of the body (Rnds 8–10 area), spaced about 4 stitches apart. The eyes should sit side by side, large and cartoon-like (Omanyte's signature feature). Using the sewing tail and yarn needle, whip stitch around the edge of each circle to attach to the body.

> 📐 **Math Check — Eyes:** Ch-2 start: 6 sts → Rnd 2: 12 sts (6 incs) ✅

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## PART 4: TENTACLES
*Yarn A (blue). Ch-2 start. Make 10 total.*

Each tentacle is a tiny tube that is **slip-stitched directly to the bottom of the body** — no sewing needle needed for attachment.

### Making One Tentacle

**Rnd 1 — Ch-2 Start:** Ch 2. Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. [4]

**Rnds 2–5:** Sc in each st around. [4] *(4 rounds total — creates a short tube about ¾" long)*

**Do NOT fasten off** after the last round of each tentacle. Leave the loop on your hook.

> 💡 **Work all 10 tentacles before attaching, OR attach each tentacle as you finish it — either method works.**

> 📐 **Math Check — Tentacles:** Ch-2 start: 4 sts → Rnds 2–5: 4 sts × 4 rounds ✅. 10 tentacles total ✅.

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### Attaching Tentacles with Slip Stitch

**Do NOT stuff tentacles.** They are flat small tubes.

**Placement layout** (view from bottom of body):
```
    T  T  T  T
   T            T
    T  T  T  T
```
Arrange 10 tentacles in two rows of 4 across the bottom, with 1 on each side — evenly spaced around the body's bottom opening area (Rnds 12–13).

**To attach each tentacle:**

1. Finish the last round of the tentacle, leaving the working loop on the hook.
2. Hold the tentacle against the bottom of the body at the desired attachment point.
3. Insert the hook through **both the last stitch of the tentacle AND through a stitch on the body** at the attachment point.
4. Pull the yarn through both — **this is your slip stitch join.**
5. Sl st 1–2 more times through adjacent stitches on the body to secure.
6. Fasten off. Weave in end through tentacle tube interior.

> 💡 **Tip:** Attach tentacles after stuffing and closing the body. Work around the base of the body (Rnds 11–12), placing all 10 evenly. You can pin them first with straight pins to check spacing before slip-stitching.

> ✅ **Tentacle count reminder:** Count your tentacles before fastening off the last one. You need exactly **10**. Omanyte has 10 tentacles.

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## SHELL SPIRAL STRIPE (Optional but Recommended)

*Yarn C (brown). Surface slip stitch.*

This adds Omanyte's signature shell spiral with zero sewing.

**Method:**
1. Thread a length of Yarn C onto your yarn needle OR use the hook directly.
2. Starting at the tip of the shell (top point), work a **surface slip stitch** in a gentle curve spiraling outward and downward to the shell base (Round 6 ridge).
3. Make 1–2 spiral lines curving around the cone for a simplified nautilus/hermit crab look.
4. Fasten off. Weave in ends through shell interior.

> 💡 **Surface Slip Stitch:** Insert hook through the fabric (from front to back), catch yarn on the back, pull up a loop through the fabric and through the loop on your hook. Move to the next spot and repeat. This creates a raised line on the surface — no embroidery needle required.

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## FINISHING CHECKLIST

- [ ] Shell cone is firm and pointed ✅
- [ ] Body is stuffed firmly, bottom hole closed ✅
- [ ] Shell sits on top of body — no gap at the Round 7 ridge ✅
- [ ] 2 eyes attached to front of body ✅
- [ ] Exactly 10 tentacles slip-stitched to body bottom ✅
- [ ] Spiral stripe added to shell ✅
- [ ] All yarn ends woven in and trimmed ✅
- [ ] No wire, small parts, or loose buttons if making for young children ✅

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## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNTS

| Part | Round | Sts | Notes |
|------|-------|-----|-------|
| Shell | 1 | 4 | Ch-2 start |
| Shell | 2 | 8 | Inc all |
| Shell | 3 | 8 | Even |
| Shell | 4 | 12 | (sc, inc)×4 |
| Shell | 5 | 12 | Even |
| Shell | 6 | 18 | (2sc, inc)×6 |
| Body | 7 | 18 | BLO join, switch to blue |
| Body | 8 | 24 | (2sc, inc)×6 |
| Body | 9 | 24 | Even |
| Body | 10 | 24 | Even |
| Body | 11 | 18 | (2sc, dec)×6 |
| Body | 12 | 12 | (sc, dec)×6 |
| Body | 13 | 6 | dec×6 — close |
| Eye | 1 | 6 | Ch-2 start |
| Eye | 2 | 12 | Inc all |
| Tentacle | 1 | 4 | Ch-2 start |
| Tentacle | 2–5 | 4 | Even × 4 rnds |

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## COLOR GUIDE (Omanyte Reference)

| Area | Suggested Color |
|------|----------------|
| Body | Medium blue |
| Underbelly / tentacles | Slightly lighter blue (or same) |
| Shell | Cream / tan |
| Shell stripe | Medium brown |
| Eyes | White circles + black pupils |

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## DESIGNER NOTES

> **Why ch-2 start?** The ch-2 start is a great beginner alternative to the magic ring. It leaves a very tiny center hole that disappears once pieces are stuffed and assembled. Every single piece in this pattern — shell, eyes, and all 10 tentacles — begins with a ch-2 start.

> **Why one piece?** By continuing directly from the shell into the body (changing yarn color at Round 7), the shell is permanently integrated. There is no need to sew or pin the shell to the body — it grows out of it naturally. The BLO ridge at Round 7 acts as a visual shell rim.

> **Difficulty:** This pattern is rated **Easy**. All shaping uses only sc, inc, and dec. The most advanced technique is the surface slip stitch for the spiral (which can be skipped). Tentacle attachment by slip stitch is quick and beginner-friendly.

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Finished toys are not recommended for children under 3 if safety eyes are used — substitute embroidered eyes for child-safe versions.*

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