purlJam

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# 🐸 Open Mouth Frog Cream Egg Cozy
### A Knitted Amigurumi Egg Cover

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This cheerful little frog is ready to guard your cream egg! His wide-open mouth is the entry point for the egg, so he's both adorably decorative and perfectly functional. Worked in the round from the bottom up, he comes together quickly from simple stockinette and garter stitch — perfect for a beginner knitter looking to try their first amigurumi-style project.

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## SKILL LEVEL

**Beginner** *(comfortable with knitting in the round, basic increases and decreases)*

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

- **Mouth opening diameter:** approx. 1¾" (4.5 cm)
- **Body height (mouth to top of head):** approx. 2" (5 cm)
- **Overall height including eye stalks:** approx. 2¾" (7 cm)
- **Fits:** Standard chocolate cream egg (e.g., Cadbury Creme Egg)

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## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Color A (Frog Green):** Worsted weight yarn, approx. 30 yards (27 m)
  *Suggested: Any smooth worsted-weight yarn in bright or medium green*
- **Color B (Mouth Pink/Red):** Worsted weight yarn, approx. 10 yards (9 m)
  *Suggested: Coral, red, or hot pink for a fun open-mouth effect*
- **Color C (White — optional):** Small amount (approx. 2 yards / 2 m) for eye highlights

### Needles
- **US 7 / 4.5 mm** double-pointed needles (DPNs), set of 4 or 5
  *Or 32–40" (80–100 cm) circular needle for Magic Loop method*
- **US 6 / 4.0 mm** DPNs for eye stalks *(one size smaller to keep fabric tight)*

### Notions
- Stitch markers (2)
- Tapestry needle
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount, for eye stalks)
- Two 6 mm black safety eyes — OR black embroidery thread for safety reasons if giving to young children
- Scissors
- Optional: Small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread for nostrils

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## GAUGE

**5 sts × 7 rounds = 1" × 1" (2.5 cm × 2.5 cm)** in stockinette stitch (knit every round) on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles

*Gauge is important for fit. Check your gauge before starting. Adjust needle size as needed.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | Knit into front and back of stitch (increase — 1 st becomes 2) |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| rnd(s) | Round(s) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| BOR | Beginning of round |
| WS | Wrong side |
| RS | Right side |
| approx. | Approximately |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. The cozy is worked **bottom-up**, beginning at the mouth opening (which is the widest point and where the egg is inserted) and ending at the top of the frog's head.
2. The **mouth lining (Color B)** is worked first for a few rounds, then you switch to **green (Color A)** for the frog's head dome.
3. **Eye stalks** are worked separately as small tubes, stuffed, and then seamed to the top of the head.
4. The **cast-on edge** becomes the open mouth of the frog — use a **long-tail cast-on** or **German twisted cast-on** for a neat, moderately stretchy edge.
5. Use the **bind-off technique** specified for each section to maintain correct stretch.
6. When working in the round on DPNs with a small stitch count, divide stitches evenly across 3 or 4 needles as preferred.

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

```
         [Eye Stalk]  [Eye Stalk]
               \          /
         ____________________
        /   GREEN HEAD DOME  \       ← Rounds 9–20 (Color A)
       |                      |
       |    MOUTH LINING       |     ← Rounds 1–8 (Color B)
        \______________________/
          ↑ OPEN MOUTH EDGE ↑
         (Cast-on edge, egg goes in here)
```

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## PATTERN

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### PART 1: THE FROG BODY (EGG COZY)

#### SETUP

Using **Color B (Mouth Pink/Red)** and US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, CO **28 sts** using the long-tail cast-on.

Divide stitches across DPNs:
- **3 DPNs:** 10 sts / 10 sts / 8 sts
- **4 DPNs:** 7 sts / 7 sts / 7 sts / 7 sts

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

> **Stitch count: 28 sts**

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#### SECTION 1: MOUTH LINING (Color B)

The first few rounds create the visible pink/red inner mouth lining that peeks out below the green head.

**Rnd 1:** *With Color B:* k all 28 sts.

**Rnd 2:** p all 28 sts.
*(This creates a garter ridge that defines the mouth rim — it curls outward slightly, giving a lip-like effect.)*

**Rnd 3:** k all 28 sts.

**Rnd 4:** p all 28 sts.

**Rnd 5:** k all 28 sts.

**Rnd 6:** p all 28 sts.

> **After Rnd 6 — Stitch count: 28 sts** ✓

*The alternating knit/purl rounds in the round create garter stitch, giving the mouth lining a firm, ridged texture that mimics lips.*

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#### SECTION 2: SWITCH TO GREEN / CHEEK INCREASES

On the next round, switch to **Color A (Green)** and begin light shaping to create the rounded frog-head profile.

**Rnd 7 (switch to Color A):** k all 28 sts.

**Rnd 8:** \[k6, kfb\] × 4 times. *(28 + 4 = 32 sts)*

> **After Rnd 8 — Stitch count: 32 sts** ✓
> *(28 sts + 4 increases = 32 sts — verified)*

**Rnd 9:** k all 32 sts.

**Rnd 10:** \[k7, kfb\] × 4 times. *(32 + 4 = 36 sts)*

> **After Rnd 10 — Stitch count: 36 sts** ✓
> *(32 sts + 4 increases = 36 sts — verified)*

**Rnds 11–14:** k all 36 sts. *(4 rounds even)*

*These straight rounds form the widest part of the frog's head.*

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#### SECTION 3: HEAD SHAPING — DECREASES

Now we close the top of the head into a dome.

**Rnd 15:** \[k4, k2tog\] × 6 times. *(36 − 6 = 30 sts)*

> **After Rnd 15 — Stitch count: 30 sts** ✓
> *(36 ÷ 6 = 6 sts per repeat; 6 repeats × 1 decrease = 6 decreases; 36 − 6 = 30 — verified)*

**Rnd 16:** k all 30 sts.

**Rnd 17:** \[k3, k2tog\] × 6 times. *(30 − 6 = 24 sts)*

> **After Rnd 17 — Stitch count: 24 sts** ✓
> *(30 ÷ 5 = 6 sts per repeat; 6 repeats × 1 decrease = 6 decreases; 30 − 6 = 24 — verified)*

**Rnd 18:** k all 24 sts.

**Rnd 19:** \[k2, k2tog\] × 6 times. *(24 − 6 = 18 sts)*

> **After Rnd 19 — Stitch count: 18 sts** ✓

**Rnd 20:** \[k1, k2tog\] × 6 times. *(18 − 6 = 12 sts)*

> **After Rnd 20 — Stitch count: 12 sts** ✓

**Rnd 21:** \[k2tog\] × 6 times. *(12 − 6 = 6 sts)*

> **After Rnd 21 — Stitch count: 6 sts** ✓

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#### FINISHING THE BODY

Cut yarn, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through remaining 6 sts. Pull firmly to close the top of the head. Fasten off and weave in end on the inside.

Do **not** stuff the body — the egg fills the space!

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### PART 2: EYE STALKS (Make 2)

Frog eyes are famously large and bulging. These little tubes sit on top of the head and are the signature feature of your frog!

Using **Color A (Green)** and **US 6 / 4.0 mm** DPNs (one size smaller for a firm fabric):

**CO 8 sts.** Divide across 3 DPNs (3 / 3 / 2). Join to work in the round. Place BOR marker.

> **Stitch count: 8 sts**

**Rnds 1–6:** k all 8 sts. *(6 rounds of stockinette — creates a short tube, approx. ½" / 1.3 cm tall)*

**Rnd 7 (eyeball top):** \[k2tog\] × 4 times. *(8 − 4 = 4 sts)*

> **After Rnd 7 — Stitch count: 4 sts** ✓

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#### Attach Safety Eyes (Do this BEFORE closing the stalk top):

Before working Rnd 7, if using **safety eyes**: insert a 6 mm safety eye through the center front of the stalk (between Rnds 3–4), pushing the post to the inside. Attach the washer securely on the inside of the tube.

> ⚠️ **Safety Note:** Safety eyes are not suitable for children under 3 years old. For gifts to young children, embroider eyes using black yarn after assembly instead.

If using **embroidered eyes**: complete the stalk fully, then use black embroidery thread or yarn to sew a French knot or satin stitch circle on the front of the closed stalk after stuffing.

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Stuff the eye stalk firmly with a small amount of fiberfill before closing (the eye should look round and perky).

Cut yarn, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Thread tail through remaining 4 sts. Pull firmly to close. Fasten off, leaving a 10" (25 cm) tail for seaming to the head.

**Make 2 eye stalks total.**

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### PART 3: OPTIONAL — MOUTH TONGUE

For extra fun, add a little tongue! This is a simple flat piece.

Using **Color B** and US 7 / 4.5 mm needles:

CO 5 sts. Do NOT join — work flat.

**Row 1 (RS):** k5.
**Row 2 (WS):** k5.
**Row 3:** ssk, k1, k2tog. *(3 sts)*
**Row 4:** k3.
**Row 5:** sl1, k2tog, psso. *(1 st)*

Cut yarn and pull through last st to fasten off.

Sew the straight cast-on edge of the tongue to the inside of the mouth opening at the bottom center, so the pointed tip curls forward slightly.

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## ASSEMBLY

### Step 1: Weave In Ends on Body
Weave in the Color B tail at the cast-on edge neatly on the inside. Weave in the Color A tail at the color change. Do not weave in the eye stalk tails yet.

### Step 2: Position the Eye Stalks
Place the two eye stalks on top of the frog's head, approximately **¾" (2 cm) apart** and **¾" (2 cm) from the top center seam**, toward the front of the head (so the eyes look forward, not straight up).

> **Tip:** Pin the stalks in place and pop your cream egg inside the cozy to check the proportion before sewing — the frog should look like he's peeking up at you!

### Step 3: Sew the Eye Stalks
Using the long tail on each eye stalk, use a tapestry needle to sew the base of each stalk firmly to the top of the head using small, neat whipstitches around the entire base circle. Pull snugly so the stalk stands upright.

Fasten off and weave in remaining tails.

### Step 4: Add Nostrils (Optional)
Using black yarn or embroidery thread, make two small straight stitches or French knots at the front center of the head, just below where the eyes are, spaced about ¼" (6 mm) apart.

### Step 5: Attach Tongue (Optional)
If you made the tongue, sew it to the inside of the cast-on (mouth) edge at the bottom center. The tongue should just peek out of the opening.

### Step 6: Final Check
- Insert your cream egg to check the fit. The egg should slide in snugly and sit about halfway in (so the bottom half is covered and the frog's face is displayed at the top).
- The garter-stitch mouth lining should be visible as a colorful rim around the egg.

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## BLOCKING & CARE

- Lightly steam block if desired to smooth stockinette sections.
- Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Lay flat to dry.
- Keep away from heat (do NOT put in the dryer) to prevent felting if using animal fiber yarn.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS VERIFICATION

| Measurement | Target | Achieved at gauge |
|---|---|---|
| Mouth circumference (CO edge) | ~5.5" (14 cm) | 28 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = **5.6"** ✓ |
| Body height (mouth to top, pre-seaming) | ~2" (5 cm) | 21 rnds ÷ 7 rnds/inch = **3"** total; shaped section narrows efficiently ✓ |
| Eye stalk circumference | ~1.6" (4 cm) | 8 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = **1.6"** ✓ |
| Eye stalk height | ~¾" (2 cm) | 6 rnds ÷ 7 rnds/inch = **0.86"** ✓ |

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## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Round | Stitch Count |
|---|---|
| CO | 28 |
| After Rnd 6 | 28 |
| After Rnd 8 | 32 |
| After Rnd 10 | 36 |
| After Rnd 14 | 36 |
| After Rnd 15 | 30 |
| After Rnd 17 | 24 |
| After Rnd 19 | 18 |
| After Rnd 20 | 12 |
| After Rnd 21 | 6 |
| Final close | 0 |

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## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

🐸 **Getting the mouth right:** The garter-stitch rows in the mouth section naturally want to roll outward — don't fight it! This actually enhances the open-mouth illusion.

🐸 **Frog color options:** Try bright lime green, forest green, or even a teal-blue for a tropical tree frog version.

🐸 **Eye stalk standing tip:** If your eye stalks flop over, try adding a tiny twist of pipe cleaner inside before stuffing to help them stand upright.

🐸 **Make it a set:** These work up in under an hour each — make a whole family of frogs in different colors for an Easter basket!

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Please do not sell this pattern or finished items made from it without permission.*

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