purlJam

<pattern>

# OVERSIZED VERTICAL STRIPE TURTLENECK JUMPER

## DESCRIPTION
A contemporary oversized turtleneck jumper featuring striking vertical stripes in black and white. Worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan construction, this structured wool knit showcases a classic folded turtleneck collar and long sleeves. The vertical stripe effect is created using a slip stitch technique that maintains the ease of circular knitting whilst producing bold graphic lines. Perfect for making a statement in cooler weather.

**Skill Level**: Intermediate  
**Sizes**: S (M, L, XL, XXL)  
**Shown in size**: M

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | S | M | L | XL | XXL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **To Fit Bust** | 81-86cm (32-34") | 91-97cm (36-38") | 102-107cm (40-42") | 112-117cm (44-46") | 122-127cm (48-50") |
| **Finished Bust** (oversized fit) | 100cm (39.5") | 110cm (43.5") | 120cm (47.5") | 130cm (51") | 140cm (55") |
| **Positive Ease** | +14-19cm (5.5-7.5") | +13-19cm (5-7.5") | +13-18cm (5-7") | +13-18cm (5-7") | +13-18cm (5-7") |
| **Body Length** (from underarm) | 46cm (18") | 46cm (18") | 48cm (19") | 48cm (19") | 50cm (19.5") |
| **Total Length** | 69cm (27") | 71cm (28") | 74cm (29") | 76cm (30") | 79cm (31") |
| **Sleeve Length** (underarm to cuff) | 45cm (17.75") | 48cm (19") | 48cm (19") | 50cm (19.75") | 50cm (19.75") |
| **Total Sleeve Length** | 68cm (26.75") | 73cm (28.75") | 76cm (30") | 80cm (31.5") | 83cm (32.75") |

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: DK weight (8-ply) wool or wool blend (structured yarn recommended)
- **Colour A (Black)**: 500 (550, 600, 650, 700)g / 1250 (1375, 1500, 1625, 1750)m
- **Colour B (White)**: 400 (450, 500, 550, 600)g / 1000 (1125, 1250, 1375, 1500)m

*Sample knitted in DK merino wool*

**Needles**:
- 3.5mm (UK 9-10/US 4) circular needle, 40cm (16") length (for turtleneck)
- 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needle, 40cm (16") length (for collar)
- 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needle, 80cm (32") length (for yoke and body)
- 4mm (UK 8/US 6) DPNs or long circular for magic loop (for sleeves)
- Or sizes needed to obtain tension

**Notions**:
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one colour for raglan, 4 in another for pattern)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

---

## TENSION / GAUGE

**22 stitches × 30 rows = 10cm (4") in stockinette stitch on 4mm needles after blocking**

**22 stitches × 32 rows = 10cm (4") in Vertical Stripe Pattern on 4mm needles after blocking**

**It is essential to check your tension.** Take time to swatch! The vertical stripe pattern may affect your tension slightly. If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct tension. If you have fewer stitches per 10cm, use smaller needles; if more stitches, use larger needles.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **CO** = cast on
- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **m** = marker
- **pm** = place marker
- **sm** = slip marker
- **inc** = increase
- **dec** = decrease
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **kfb** = knit into front and back of stitch (1 stitch increased)
- **M1L** = make 1 left (lift strand between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **M1R** = make 1 right (lift strand between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **sl1 wyib** = slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)
- **cont** = continue
- **rem** = remaining
- **rep** = repeat
- **BO** = bind off (cast off)

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**Construction**: This jumper is worked seamlessly from the top down. The turtleneck collar is worked first in ribbing, followed by the yoke with raglan shaping. The body and sleeves are then separated and worked in the round to completion.

**Vertical Stripe Pattern**: The vertical stripes are created using a slip stitch technique that works beautifully in the round. Each stripe is 4 stitches wide, creating a bold graphic effect. The pattern is worked over 8-stitch repeats. You will alternate between 2 rounds of Colour A and 2 rounds of Colour B, slipping stitches to create continuous vertical lines.

**Stripe Continuity**: When working colourwork in the round, carry the non-working colour loosely up the inside of the work. Twist yarns every 2-4 rounds to prevent long floats.

**Raglan Shaping**: Increases are made every right-side round, adding 8 stitches per increase round (2 stitches at each of the 4 raglan lines). The increase method creates a decorative raglan line.

**Fit**: This jumper is designed with significant positive ease (13-19cm / 5-7.5") for an oversized, relaxed fit. The drop-shoulder raglan construction adds to the casual, cozy aesthetic.

**Saddle Shoulder Option**: While this pattern uses raglan construction for intermediate-level seamless knitting, a true saddle shoulder construction would require advanced techniques with separate pieces. The raglan creates a similar relaxed shoulder line suitable for an oversized fit.

---

## VERTICAL STRIPE PATTERN (multiple of 8 sts)

The pattern is worked over 8 stitches and 4 rounds.

**Set-up Round** (with Colour A):  
*K4 with A, k4 with B; rep from * to end of round.

**Round 1** (with Colour A):  
*K4 with A, sl4 wyib; rep from * to end.

**Round 2** (with Colour A):  
*K4 with A, sl4 wyib; rep from * to end.

**Round 3** (with Colour B):  
*Sl4 wyib, k4 with B; rep from * to end.

**Round 4** (with Colour B):  
*Sl4 wyib, k4 with B; rep from * to end.

**Repeat Rounds 1-4** for pattern.

**Note**: Each colour works for 2 consecutive rounds. When slipping stitches, hold the non-working colour loosely across the back to avoid puckering.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### TURTLENECK COLLAR

With Colour A and 3.5mm circular needle (40cm), CO **88 (96, 104, 112, 120)** sts using long-tail cast on.

**Verification**: Cast on must be stretchy enough to fit over head. Test by trying to fit cast on edge over your head before proceeding. If too tight, use a larger needle for cast on only, or CO more stitches (in multiples of 4).

Place marker for beginning of round and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.

**Set-up round**: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

**Rib Pattern**:
Continue in 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for **16cm (6.25")** or approximately 48 rounds.

*Calculation check: 30 rows/10cm × 16cm = 48 rounds. ✓*

Change to 4mm circular needle (40cm).

**Next round** (increase round with Colour A): *Kfb, k to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1; rep from * once more at halfway point.

You now have **92 (100, 108, 116, 124)** sts.

*Calculation: 88+4 = 92 sts for size S. ✓ Pattern continues for other sizes.*

---

### YOKE

Change to 4mm circular needle (80cm) when stitches become crowded.

**Set-up Round** (establish raglan lines and pattern):

With Colour A, knit, placing markers as follows:
- K **17 (19, 21, 23, 25)** sts (left front)
- pm (raglan marker)
- K **16 (16, 18, 18, 20)** sts (left sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- K **34 (38, 40, 44, 46)** sts (back)
- pm (raglan marker)
- K **16 (16, 18, 18, 20)** sts (right sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- K **17 (19, 21, 23, 25)** sts (right front, to end of round)

*Calculation check for Size M: 19+16+38+16+19 = 108 sts. ✓*

**Begin Raglan Increases and Stripe Pattern**:

You will now begin the vertical stripe pattern while simultaneously working raglan increases. 

**Important**: To maintain the vertical stripe pattern, adjust the placement so that the 8-stitch repeats work evenly. If your stitch count is not perfectly divisible by 8, work any remaining stitches at the raglan lines in stockinette, maintaining the stripe colour sequence.

**Stripe Transition Round** (with Colour A):
Knit all sts, introducing Colour B at appropriate points to establish 8-st stripe repeat pattern. Don't worry about raglan increases this round—just establish your stripes.

*K4 with A, k4 with B* to establish the vertical stripe placement across all sections.

**Round 1** (Raglan Increase Round, Stripe Round 1):
With Colour A and B as established:
*K to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, working Vertical Stripe Pattern (Round 1) throughout.

8 sts increased.

**Round 2** (Stripe Round 2):
Work Vertical Stripe Pattern Round 2 (with Colour A) without increases.

**Round 3** (Raglan Increase Round, Stripe Round 3):
With Colour B as established:
*K to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, working Vertical Stripe Pattern (Round 3) throughout.

8 sts increased.

**Round 4** (Stripe Round 4):
Work Vertical Stripe Pattern Round 4 (with Colour B) without increases.

**Repeat Rounds 1-4** a total of **20 (22, 24, 26, 28)** times.

*Note: Raglan increases happen on Rounds 1 and 3 of each 4-round repeat.*

Total increase rounds: **40 (44, 48, 52, 56)** rounds with increases = **320 (352, 384, 416, 448)** sts increased.

*Calculation for Size M: 108 + 352 =