purlJam

# Pattern: Classic Set-In Sleeve Sweater with Collar (LK150)

**Size:** Ladies Medium
**Finished Bust:** ~98 cm (38.5")
**Finished Length:** ~60 cm (23.5")
**Machine:** Silver Reed LK150 (or equivalent mid-gauge 6.5mm)
**Difficulty:** Intermediate

## YARN WEIGHT: DK (Double Knit)
**Specifications:** Approximately 500g - 600g of standard DK weight yarn (wool or acrylic blend recommended).
**Waste Yarn:** Small amount of contrasting color waste yarn.
**Ravel Cord:** Required for separation.

## TERMINOLOGY & ABBREVIATION PROFILE
*   **RC:** Row Counter
*   **T:** Tension Dial
*   **COL / COR:** Carriage on Left / Carriage on Right
*   **Sts:** Stitches
*   **HP:** Holding Position (Needles pulled all the way out to D or E position)
*   **NWP:** Non-Working Position (A position)
*   **MY:** Main Yarn
*   **WY:** Waste Yarn
*   **Dec:** Decrease (Transfer outer stitch to adjacent needle)
*   **Inc:** Increase (Pick up heel of stitch from previous row on edge)
*   **Mock Rib:** 1x1 needle selection folded hem.

## MACHINE-KNITTING REQUIREMENTS & TOOLS
*   **Tools:** 1x2 and 1x3 Transfer Tools, Latch Tool, Tappet Tool, Cast-on Comb, Claw Weights, Ravel Cord, Tapestry Needle.
*   **Gauge:** 22 sts x 30 rows = 10 cm square (4") over Stockinette on T 4.5.

---

## PART 1: BACK

### Setup & Hem (Mock Rib)
1.  **Machine Setup:**
    *   Pull 106 needles into work (L53 to R53).
    *   Carriage: COR.
    *   **Tension: T 3** (Tighter for hem).
2.  **Cast On:**
    *   E-wrap cast on with MY.
    *   Knit 1 Row. (COL). Hang cast-on comb and weights.
3.  **Mock Rib Selection:**
    *   Using the 1x1 ruler or manually, push every other needle back to A position (NWP) *temporarily*. (Keep the stitch on the needle latch or transfer it to the neighbor if you prefer a tighter rib, but for LK150 Mock Rib, we usually knit a hem).
    *   *Correction for Mock Rib Hem:* We will knit a double-length hem and fold it.
    *   Reset needles: Ensure all 106 needles are in work (B position).
    *   Knit 20 rows. [RC: 20]
    *   **Picot Turning Row (Optional):** Transfer every other stitch to its neighbor. Leave empty needles in work. Knit 1 row loose (T 5).
    *   **Hem Lining:** Return T to 3. Knit 20 rows. [RC: 40]
    *   **Fold Hem:** Pick up the cast-on edge loops and hang them onto the open needles.
4.  **Main Body:**
    *   Reset RC to 000.
    *   Change **Tension to T 4.5** (Main Tension).
    *   Knit straight until RC 114 (approx 38 cm / 15"). End COL.

### Armhole Shaping
*   **Bind Off:**
    *   Row 115 (COR): Bind off 5 sts at start of row. Knit to end. [101 sts]
    *   Row 116 (COL): Bind off 5 sts at start of row. Knit to end. [96 sts]
*   **Decrease (Shaping):**
    *   Dec 1 st at each end every 2 rows, 5 times.
    *   *Method:* Use 2-prong tool, move outer 2 stitches inward by 1 needle.
    *   Row 118: Dec 1 L&R. [94 sts]
    *   Row 120: Dec 1 L&R. [92 sts]
    *   Row 122: Dec 1 L&R. [90 sts]
    *   Row 124: Dec 1 L&R. [88 sts]
    *   Row 126: Dec 1 L&R. [86 sts]
*   **Straight Knitting:**
    *   Knit straight until RC 174 (Armhole depth approx 20 cm / 8"). End COR.

### Shoulder & Neck Shaping
1.  **Divide for Neck:**
    *   Carriage COR. Put center 30 stitches in HP (Holding Position). Set carriage lever to *Holding* (Russell Levers to I or equivalent on LK150).
    *   Work on Right Shoulder side only (Needles R16 to R43).
2.  **Right Shoulder:**
    *   RC 175: Knit across shoulder stitches. Wrap yarn under first needle in hold. Turn.
    *   **Neck Dec:** Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 3 rows (Rows 176, 177, 178). [Shoulder remains: 25 sts]
    *   *Simultaneously* at RC 178, begin shoulder slope.
    *   **Shoulder Slope (Short Rows):**
        *   COR: Put 8 needles at armhole edge to HP. Knit to neck.
        *   COL: Knit to armhole.
        *   COR: Put 8 more needles at armhole edge to HP. Knit to neck.
        *   COL: Knit to armhole.
        *   COR: Put remaining 9 needles to HP.
    *   Cut yarn leaving a long tail.
3.  **Left Shoulder:**
    *   Set carriage to work opposite side. Reset RC to 174.
    *   Mirror instructions for Right Shoulder.
4.  **Finishing Back:**
    *   Take off shoulder stitches on waste yarn. Leave center neck stitches on waste yarn.

---

## PART 2: FRONT

### Setup & Body
1.  **Follow PART 1 instructions** exactly for Cast On, Hem, and Main Body up to Armhole Shaping.
2.  Perform **Armhole Shaping** exactly as Back. (Decrease to 86 sts).
3.  Knit straight until **RC 156** (approx 6 cm / 2.5" before shoulder height).

### Front Neck Scoop
1.  **Divide:**
    *   Put center 16 sts in HP.
    *   Set Carriage to Hold. Work on Left side first (L8 to L43).
2.  **Shape Neck (Left Side):**
    *   Dec 1 st at neck edge every row for 4 rows. [RC 157-160].
    *   Dec 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows for 3 times. [RC 162, 164, 166].
    *   Knit straight to RC 178.
    *   Stitch count check: [Start 43 sts - 8 center/hold - 4 decs - 3 decs = 28 sts].
    *   *Correction:* We need 25 shoulder sts to match back. Need 3 more decs.
    *   *Revised Neck Dec:* Dec 1 st at neck edge every row for 5 rows. Dec 1 st at neck edge every 2 rows for 5 times.
    *   [43 sts - 8 held - 5 dec - 5 dec = 25 sts]. **PERFECT.**
3.  **Shoulder Slope:**
    *   At RC 178, perform short row slope exactly as Back (8, 8, 9 sts).
    *   Remove to waste yarn.
4.  **Right Side:**
    *   Mirror instructions for Left Side.

---

## PART 3: SLEEVES (Make 2)

### Cuff (Mock Rib)
1.  **Setup:**
    *   Pull 48 needles to work (L24 to R24). T 3.
    *   E-wrap cast on. Knit hem exactly as Back (20 rows, Picot optional, 20 rows). Fold hem.
2.  **Increase Section:**
    *   Change to **T 4.5**. RC 000.
    *   Increase 1 st at each end every 8 rows, 16 times.
    *   *Math Check:* [48 sts + (16 * 2) = 80 sts].
    *   RC 8: Inc 1 L&R.
    *   RC 16: Inc 1 L&R... continue to RC 128.
3.  **Length:**
    *   Knit straight to RC 130 (approx 43 cm / 17" sleeve length).

### Sleeve Cap (Set-In)
*   **Initial Bind Off:**
    *   Bind off 5 sts at start of next 2 rows. [70 sts].
*   **Cap Shaping:**
    *   Dec 1 st at each end every 2 rows, 20 times.
    *   [Row 132 to 172: 70 sts - 40 sts = 30 sts].
    *   Dec 2 sts at each end every 2 rows, 4 times.
    *   [Row 174 to 180: 30 sts - 16 sts = 14 sts].
*   **Finish:**
    *   Bind off remaining 14 sts loosely.

---

## PART 4: COLLAR & FINISHING

### Assembly Preparation
1.  **Blocking:** Steam block all pieces (especially the sleeve caps) to flatten edges. Do not kill the ribbing if using acrylic.
2.  **Shoulders:** Join right shoulder seam using backstitch or latch tool seam (wrong sides together).

### Collar
1.  **Pick Up:**
    *   With right side of work facing you, hang the neckline stitches onto the machine needles.
    *   Back Neck: Pick up stitches from waste yarn.
    *   Front Neck: Pick up stitches from waste yarn and pick up side edge loops evenly.
    *   Target Stitch Count: Approx 90-100 sts. (Ensure it's stretchable).
2.  **Knit:**
    *   **Tension: T 4** (Slightly tighter than body).
    *   Knit 1 row to seal picked up stitches.
    *   Knit 20 rows.
    *   **Picot (Turning) Row:** Transfer every other stitch. Knit 1 row loose (T 6).
    *   **Inner Facing:** T 4. Knit 20 rows.
3.  **Bind Off:**
    *   You can loosely bind off and sew down, OR
    *   Fold the collar down on the machine, hang the original pickup row loops onto the needles, and knit 1 row at T 6. Latch tool bind off.

### Final Assembly
1.  **Join Left Shoulder:** Sew the collar seam and the left shoulder seam.
2.  **Sleeves:** Pin the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve edges to the armhole bind-off area. Ease the sleeve cap into the armhole (the cap is curved, the armhole is straight/curved). Sew using mattress stitch.
3.  **Side Seams:** Sew side seams and sleeve underarm seams continuously using mattress stitch.
4.  **Ends:** Weave in all yarn tails.