purlJam

# Pattern: Fibonacci Felted Rectangle Basket

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner
**Method:** Circular Knitting Machine (Tube Method with Boxed Corners)
**Finished Dimensions (Approximate):** 18 cm x 12 cm x 10 cm (variable depending on felting)

## General Information

### Yarn Weight & Specifications
*   **Weight:** Worsted / Aran weight (10 ply).
*   **Fibre Content:** **CRITICAL:** Must be 100% Non-Superwash Wool (e.g., Highland Wool, Merino Roving). Acrylic or Superwash wool will *not* felt.
*   **Texture:** Roving or single-ply yarn works best for smooth felting.
*   **Quantity:**
    *   Colour A (White/Base): Approx. 100g.
    *   Colour B (Contrast): Approx. 50g.
    *   Waste Yarn: Small amount of contrasting acrylic yarn (non-felting).

### Terminology & Abbreviations (UK English)
*   **K**: Knit
*   **St(s)**: Stitch(es)
*   **Cm**: Centimetres
*   **Tension**: Gauge
*   **WY**: Waste Yarn
*   **DC**: Double Crochet (US Single Crochet) - used if joining with hook.
*   **Fibonacci Sequence**: A mathematical sequence where each number is the sum of the two preceding ones (1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13...).

### Tools
*   **Knitting Machine:** 42 Pin Circular Machine (Note: Instructions work for Sentro 40 or Addi 46 as well).
*   **Tapesty Needle**: For seaming.
*   **Knitting Needles**: Two 5.0mm (or size needed for I-cord) double-pointed needles (DPNs) for the trim.
*   **Crochet Hook**: 5.0mm (optional for slip stitch seam).

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## Instructions

### Step 1: The Tube Construction
*Note: We are knitting a long tube which will be seamed at the bottom. The "Base" section below will become the floor of the basket.*

**1. Cast On:**
Using Waste Yarn, cast on and crank 5-8 rows. Stop with the yarn guide at the start pin. Cut Waste Yarn.

**2. Base Section (Colour A - White):**
Insert Colour A. Crank **25 rows**.
*   *Validation: These rows form the bottom and the turn of the basket.*

**3. The Fibonacci Walls (Stripes):**
We will alternate between Colour B (Contrast) and Colour A (White) using the Fibonacci sequence for the row counts.
*   *Tip:* Keep tails inside the tube. Tie loose knots to secure them temporarily; you will weave them in before felting.

*   **Change to Colour B:** Crank **1 row**.
*   **Change to Colour A:** Crank **1 row**.
*   **Change to Colour B:** Crank **2 rows**.
*   **Change to Colour A:** Crank **3 rows**.
*   **Change to Colour B:** Crank **5 rows**.
*   **Change to Colour A:** Crank **8 rows**.
*   **Change to Colour B:** Crank **13 rows**.
    *   *[Row Count Check: 25 base + 33 stripe rows = 58 rows total so far]*

**4. Top Rim (Colour A - White):**
Change to Colour A. Crank **5 rows** to finish the top edge cleanly.

**5. Cast Off:**
Cut Colour A leaving a very long tail (approx. 2 metres) for the I-cord bind off.
Thread a tapestry needle with the tail.
Remove the project from the machine by picking up the live stitches onto a length of Waste Yarn or a circular knitting needle.
*   *Alternative Machine Removal:* Crank 5 rows of Waste Yarn and drop the project off the machine. This keeps stitches "live" for the I-cord.

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## Step 2: Fabrication & Assembly

### A. Close the Bottom
1.  Turn the tube inside out (wrong side facing you).
2.  Identify the first row of Colour A (right after the first Waste Yarn section).
3.  Using a crochet hook or tapestry needle, slip stitch or sew the bottom of the tube closed flat.
4.  Remove the starting Waste Yarn.

### B. Box the Corners (Creating the Rectangle)
To make the bag sit flat like a box, we must sew across the bottom corners.
1.  Keep the bag inside out.
2.  Flatten the bottom seam. Poke the corners out so they form sharp points (ears).
3.  Measure approx. 4 cm in from the tip of the "ear" along the seam.
4.  Sew a straight line perpendicular to the bottom seam across the corner.
5.  Repeat for the other corner.
6.  *Optional:* You can cut off the extra triangular fabric or tack it down to the bottom for extra base stability.
7.  Turn the bag right side out. It should now have a rectangular bottom.

### C. I-Cord Trim (Applied Bind Off)
*Note: This creates a professional, rolled edge. If this is too difficult, you may simply cast off loosely using a crochet hook.*

1.  Place the live stitches from the top edge onto a knitting needle (if they are currently on waste yarn).
2.  Cast on 3 stitches onto a separate DPN (Double Pointed Needle) using Colour A or B.
3.  **The Pattern:**
    *   Knit 2.
    *   Knit the last stitch of the I-cord together with the first stitch of the bag (K2tog).
    *   Slip the 3 stitches back to the left needle (pull tight across the back).
    *   Repeat until all bag stitches are bound off.
4.  Graft the start and end of the I-cord together.

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## Step 3: Felting Process

*Warning: Felting is irreversible. Check your progress frequently.*

1.  **Preparation**: Place the bag inside a pillowcase or a zippered wash bag (to catch lint). Include an old pair of jeans or tennis balls in the wash to increase agitation.
2.  **Washing**: Set washing machine to **Hot Wash** (approx 40-60°C) with a small amount of detergent. Use a standard cycle with agitation (not delicate).
3.  **Check**: After one cycle, check the size. The stitches should be invisible and the fabric dense. If you can still see individual stitches, wash it again.
    *   *Math:* Expect shrinkage of approx 30% vertically and 20% horizontally.
4.  **Shaping**:
    *   While the wool is wet, it is malleable.
    *   Find a rectangular box (like a tissue box or Tupperware) that matches your desired final size.
    *   Cover the box in a plastic bag.
    *   Force the wet felted bag over the box. Smooth the bottom and corners with your hands.
5.  **Drying**: Leave it on the box/form until completely dry (usually 24-48 hours).