purlJam

# Pattern Name: The Hourglass Winter Shorts

## Introduction
These high-waisted shorts are designed specifically to accentuate the waist and create volume at the hips, giving a curvy, "hourglass" silhouette. Knitted in warm worsted weight yarn, they are perfect for winter styling with tights and boots. The wide ribbed waistband cinches the waist, while a rapid increase row creates comfortable room and visual width at the hips.

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner

## Sizes
**S (M, L)**
To fit waist: 60-65 (70-75, 80-85) cm
To fit hips: 85-90 (95-100, 105-110) cm
*Designed with approximately 5-8 cm of positive ease at the hips for a flattering, wider look.*

## Finished Measurements
- **Waist Circumference (unstretched):** 61 (72, 83) cm
- **Hip Circumference:** 91 (108, 125) cm
- **Total Length:** 38 (40, 42) cm

## Materials & Tools
- **Yarn:** Worsted Weight (approx. 10 ply / Aran).
    - Amount: 300 (350, 400) metres.
    - *Suggestion: Use a wool or wool-blend for structure and warmth.*
- **Needles:**
    - 4.0 mm circular needles (40 cm length) for waistband.
    - 5.0 mm circular needles (60 cm and 40 cm length, or DPNs) for body and legs.
- **Notions:** Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scrap yarn (to hold stitches), elastic band (optional, 3cm wide).

## Tension (Gauge)
18 stitches and 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm in Stocking Stitch using 5.0 mm needles.
*Please check your tension before starting to ensure the garment fits correctly.*

## Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
- **k:** Knit
- **p:** Purl
- **st(s):** Stitch(es)
- **inc:** Increase
- **M1:** Make 1 (Lift the bar between stitches and knit into the back of it to create a new stitch)
- **k2tog:** Knit 2 stitches together
- **PM:** Place Marker
- **SM:** Slip Marker

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## Instructions

### 1. Waistband
*The waistband is worked on smaller needles to ensure a snug fit that emphasizes the waist.*

Using **4.0 mm** needles, cast on **110 (130, 150)** sts.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker (PM) to indicate the beginning of the round.

**Round 1-30:** *k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Continue in ribbing until waistband measures **12 cm** (or desired height for high-waist fit).
*Note: A wide waistband is essential for the high-waisted, hip-enhancing look.*

### 2. Hip Shaping
*We switch to larger needles and increase stitches rapidly. This sudden change in width creates the visual illusion of wider hips.*

Change to **5.0 mm** needles.

**Increase Round:** *k2, M1; repeat from * to end.
**Math Check:**
- Size S: [110 start + 55 inc = 165 sts]
- Size M: [130 start + 65 inc = 195 sts]
- Size L: [150 start + 75 inc = 225 sts]

**Next Round:** Knit all stitches.

### 3. The Body (Rise)
Work in Stocking Stitch (knit every round) until the piece measures **30 (32, 34) cm** from the cast-on edge, or until the piece reaches your desired crotch depth.
*Tip: Try them on (carefully) using a spare circular needle. The crotch usually sits lower on winter shorts for comfort.*

### 4. Dividing for Legs
You will now split the work into two leg holes.

**Setup Round:**
1. Knit **82 (97, 112)** sts (roughly half the stitches).
2. Place the remaining **83 (98, 113)** sts on a piece of scrap yarn to hold for the second leg.
3. You are now working only on the first leg.

### 5. First Leg
**Connection:** Cast on **4 (4, 4)** stitches using the backward loop method (this creates the inner crotch gusset), then join to the first stitch of the current leg to work in the round.
**Total Leg Stitches:** 86 (101, 116) sts.

**Leg Length:**
Knit every round for **5 cm**.

**Hem (Folded Style):**
*A chunky hem adds weight to the bottom, preventing curling and balancing the wide hip look.*
1. Change to **4.0 mm** needles.
2. Work *k1, p1* rib for **3 cm**.
3. Cast off loosely in rib.

### 6. Second Leg
1. Place the **83 (98, 113)** held stitches onto the **5.0 mm** needles.
2. Pick up and knit **4 (4, 4)** stitches from the crotch gusset you created for the first leg.
3. Place marker for beginning of round.
**Total Leg Stitches:** 87 (102, 117) sts (Note: Sizes S/L usually have even numbers, M odd here due to the math, this is fine for stocking stitch).

**Leg Length:**
Knit every round for **5 cm**.

**Hem:**
1. Change to **4.0 mm** needles.
2. Decrease 1 stitch in the first round if you have an odd number of stitches (Size M: k2tog once) to make ribbing even.
3. Work *k1, p1* rib for **3 cm**.
4. Cast off loosely in rib.

### 7. Finishing
1. Weave in all ends on the inside of the work.
2. Sew the small gap at the crotch gusset closed securely.
3. **Blocking:** Wash the shorts gently and lay them flat to dry. Pat them into shape, gently stretching the hip area to emphasize the curve.
4. **Optional:** For extra security, thread elastic thread through the inside of the waistband ribbing.