purlJam

# Pattern: No-Sew Purple Octopus
**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate
**Technique:** Amigurumi / Crochet in the Round

This pattern utilizes the "Sphere" and "Cylinder" concepts from the Simple Shapes template but combines them using intermediate loop-isolation techniques (FLO/BLO) to create a completely no-sew toy.

### 1. Materials & Tools
*   **Yarn:** Worsted / Aran weight yarn (approx. 30g) in Purple.
*   **Hook:** 3.5mm (US E-4) or 4.0mm (US G-6).
*   **Stuffing:** Polyester fibre fill.
*   **Eyes:** 8mm or 10mm Safety Eyes (or black yarn for embroidery).
*   **Notions:** Stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors.

### 2. Measurements & Tension
*   **Size:** Approximately 8cm (3 inches) tall by 8cm wide (excluding legs).
*   **Tension:** 5 dc x 5 rows = 2.5cm square.
    *   *Note: Precise tension is not critical, provided stitches are tight enough to hold stuffing invisible.*

### 3. Terminology (UK English)
*   **mr:** Magic Ring (adjustable loop)
*   **dc:** Double Crochet (equivalent to US Single Crochet)
*   **htr:** Half Treble Crochet (equivalent to US Half Double Crochet)
*   **inc:** Increase (2 dc in same stitch)
*   **dec:** Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of first st, insert hook in front loop of second st, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops)
*   **st(s):** Stitch(es)
*   **sl st:** Slip Stitch
*   **ch:** Chain
*   **FLO:** Front Loop Only
*   **BLO:** Back Loop Only
*   **[...]**: Total stitch count at end of round.

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### 4. Pattern Instructions

#### HEAD & BODY (Modified Sphere)
The body is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless specified.

**Rnd 1:** Create a magic ring, work 8 dc into ring.
`[Math: 8 start sts = 8 sts]`

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around.
`[Math: 8 x 2 = 16 sts]`

**Rnd 3:** (1 dc, inc) repeat 8 times.
`[Math: 16 + 8 inc = 24 sts]`

**Rnd 4:** (2 dc, inc) repeat 8 times.
`[Math: 24 + 8 inc = 32 sts]`

**Rnds 5-10:** Dc in each st around. (6 rounds total)
`[Math: 32 sts per round]`

*Insert Safety Eyes now: Place them between Rnd 8 and Rnd 9, spaced approximately 5-6 stitches apart.*

#### TENTACLES (The "No-Sew" Section)
You will now create the legs using the Front Loops of the next round. The body will be closed later using the Back Loops left behind.

**Rnd 11 (FLO - Tentacles):**
Work this entire round in **Front Loops Only**.
Repeat the sequence below 8 times to create 8 legs:
1.  Sl st in next st.
2.  Ch 12.
3.  Turn and work down the chain: 2 htr in 2nd ch from hook, 2 htr in each of the next 10 chs. (This creates the curl).
4.  Sl st in the same stitch on the body (where you started the chain).
5.  Sl st in next 3 sts along the body.

`[Math Check: Each leg sequence uses 4 stitches of the body circumference. 4 sts x 8 legs = 32 sts. Count is correct.]`

*After completing the 8th leg, you should be back at the start of the round with 8 curly tentacles flapping outwards.*

#### CLOSING THE BODY
You will now work into the unworked **Back Loops** of Rnd 10 (these are visible inside/behind the tentacles).

**Rnd 12:** Working in **BLO** of Rnd 10: (2 dc, dec) repeat 8 times.
`[Math: 32 - 8 dec = 24 sts]`

**Rnd 13:** Working in both loops (normal): (1 dc, dec) repeat 8 times.
`[Math: 24 - 8 dec = 16 sts]`

*Stuff the body firmly with fibre fill. Ensure you push stuffing to the sides to round out the shape.*

**Rnd 14:** (Dec) repeat 8 times.
`[Math: 16 - 8 dec = 8 sts]`

### 5. Finishing
1.  Cut the yarn, leaving a 15cm tail.
2.  Thread the tail onto a yarn needle.
3.  Weave the needle through the front loop of each remaining 8 stitches and pull tight to close the hole.
4.  Weave in the end securely and hide inside the body.

### 6. Construction Tips (for Intermediate results)
*   **Curling Tentacles:** If the tentacles do not curl naturally, twist them tightly with your fingers in the direction of the stitches.
*   **Gaps:** When working Rnd 12 (the first closing round behind the legs), pull your tension tight to prevent gaps appearing between the legs and the bottom of the octopus.
*   **Variation:** For a "Cylinder" style octopus (taller head), add 3-4 more rounds of plain dc between Rnd 10 and Rnd 11.