purlJam

# Pattern: The Breakout Pullover
**Difficulty:** Beginner
**Machine:** Bulky Gauge (9mm pitch)
**Yarn:** Worsted Weight (approx. 800-900m total)
**Size:** Medium (Finished Bust approx. 110cm / 43")

### TERMINOLOGY & ABBREVIATION PROFILE
*   **RC:** Row Counter
*   **COL / COR:** Carriage on Left / Carriage on Right
*   **MT:** Main Tension (Dial setting for body)
*   **T:** Tension (Dial setting)
*   **WY:** Waste Yarn (contrast yarn for casting on/off)
*   **MY:** Main Yarn
*   **E-Wrap:** Interaction where yarn is wrapped around each needle manually.
*   **HP:** Holding Position (Needles pulled all the way out - position E).
*   **NWP:** Non-Working Position (Position A).
*   **WP:** Working Position (Position B).

### TOOLS REQUIRED
*   Bulky Knitting Machine (9mm)
*   Transfer Tools (1x2, 2x3)
*   Tappet Tool / Latch Tool
*   Cast-on comb and Claw Weights
*   Ravel Cord (optional but recommended)
*   Tapestry Needle

### GAUGE SPECIFICATIONS
*   **Target:** 16 stitches x 24 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (4" x 4").
*   **Swatch:** Cast on 30 stitches, knit 40 rows. Wash and block before measuring.
*   **Main Tension (MT):** Start testing at T7 or T8 depending on your specific yarn.

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### INSTRUCTION SET 1: THE BACK

**1. Machine Setup**
*   **Needle Arrangement:** Bring needles L44 to R44 into Working Position (WP). Total 88 stitches.
*   **Carriage:** Set to Main Bed knit (Stockinette). Make sure Russell Levers are set to knit (II).
*   **Tension:** Set Dial to **MT minus 2** (e.g., if MT is 8, use T6) for the hem.

**2. Cast On & Hem**
*   **COL:** Thread carriage with **Waste Yarn (WY)**. Knit 1 row. Hang cast-on comb and weights.
*   Knit 10 rows in WY. Break yarn.
*   **RC 000:** Thread **Ravel Cord** (if available) or simply change to **Main Yarn (MY)**.
*   **COR:** Knit 1 row very loosely (pull slack manually if needed).
*   **RC 001-010:** Knit 10 rows at tight tension (Hem facing).
*   **Turn the Hem:** Remove weights. Using a transfer tool, pick up the sinker loops from the first row of MY (the loose row) and hang them onto the corresponding needles.
*   **Replace Weights:** Hang claw weights evenly across the work.
*   **Tension Change:** Change Dial to **Main Tension (MT)**. Reset RC to 000.

**3. Body**
*   **RC 000:** COL. Knit straight in stockinette.
*   *Note:* Move claw weights up every 20 rows to maintain proper tension.
*   **RC 096 (Armhole Marker):** Place a small piece of contrast yarn on the edge needles (L44 and R44) to mark the start of the armhole. Do not shape; simply mark.
*   Continue knitting straight.
*   **RC 144:** Stop.

**4. Bind Off**
*   Remove yarn from carriage.
*   Using the **Latch Tool**, perform a loose backstitch bind-off or transfer stitches to a knitting needle for a hand bind-off.
*   *Tip:* Do not bind off tightly, or the shoulders will pucker.

---

### INSTRUCTION SET 2: THE FRONT (Boat Neck)

**1. Setup & Hem**
*   Repeat **Steps 1 & 2** from the Back exactly.
*   Needles L44 to R44 (88 sts).

**2. Body**
*   **RC 000:** Change to **MT**. Knit straight.
*   **RC 096:** Mark armholes with contrast yarn on edges.
*   **RC 138:** COR. (Preparation for Neckline).
    *   We will separate the work for the left and right shoulders.
    *   Neck width: 24 cm (approx 38 stitches).
    *   Shoulder width: 25 stitches each side.

**3. Left Shoulder**
*   **COR:** Set carriage to **Hold** (Russell Levers to I / H).
*   Bring needles **R1 to R44** (Right side) to Holding Position (HP).
*   Bring needles **L20 to L1** (Center neck) to Holding Position (HP).
*   Only needles **L44 to L21** are in Work.
*   Knit 6 rows on these 24 stitches (RC 138 to 144).
*   Break yarn leaving a long tail (for seaming).
*   Take these stitches off on waste yarn or bind off loosely.

**4. Right Shoulder**
*   **COL:** Return carriage to left.
*   Push needles **R21 to R44** back to Working Position (ensure latches are open).
*   Leave center needles (L20 to R20) in Hold.
*   Join yarn at R21.
*   Knit 6 rows (RC 138 to 144).
*   Bind off loosely or remove on waste yarn.

**5. Neck Finish**
*   Push the center 40 needles (L20 to R20) to Working Position.
*   Bind off these stitches loosely using the latch tool, or hand knit a bind off. This creates the boat neck opening.

---

### INSTRUCTION SET 3: SLEEVES (Make 2)

**1. Cuff Setup**
*   **Needle Arrangement:** Bring needles L19 to R19 into WP. Total 38 stitches.
*   **Tension:** Set Dial to **MT minus 2**.
*   **Cast On:** Use WY and cast-on comb as per Body instructions.
*   **RC 000:** Thread MY. Knit 1 loose row, then 10 rows for hem facing.
*   **Turn Hem:** Hang sinker loops. Reset RC to 000.
*   **Tension:** Change to **MT**.

**2. Sleeve Shaping (Increases)**
*   **Goal:** Increase from 38 stitches to 64 stitches.
*   **Method:** Fully Fashioned Increase.
    *   *How to:* Use a 2- or 3-prong transfer tool. Move the edge 2 stitches out by one needle. Pick up the heel of the stitch from the previous row to fill the empty needle. Do this on both left and right sides.
*   **Schedule:** Increase 1 stitch at each end every **8 rows**.
    *   Inc at RC 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104.
*   **RC 108:** You should now have 64 stitches (L32 to R32).
*   Knit straight until **RC 110**.

**3. Bind Off**
*   Bind off all stitches loosely using the latch tool.

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### FINISHING

1.  **Block:** Steam block all pieces before sewing. Do not press the iron directly onto the yarn; hover and steam. Ensure measurements match the schematic (Back width 55cm, Length 60cm).
2.  **Shoulders:** Mattress stitch the Front shoulders to the Back shoulders.
3.  **Sleeves:**
    *   Lay the body flat (open).
    *   Match the center of the sleeve bind-off edge to the shoulder seam.
    *   Pin the sleeve edges down to the armhole markers (placed at RC 96).
    *   Mattress stitch the sleeve head to the body.
4.  **Side Seams:** Mattress stitch from the bottom hem, up the side of the body, into the armpit, and down the length of the sleeve in one continuous seam.
5.  **Ends:** Weave in all loose ends.
6.  **Neck:** Since this is a boat neck, the edge is already bound off. Lightly steam the neck edge to flatten it.