purlJam

# Pattern: The Relaxed Drop-Shoulder Pullover
**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate  
**Style:** Loose fitting, round neck, drop shoulder, three-quarter length sleeves  
**Sizes:** S, M, L, XL, 2XL  

## Description
This is a relaxed, modern take on the basic crew neck pullover. Worked flat in pieces from the bottom up, it features a generous amount of positive ease and a simplified drop-shoulder construction. The three-quarter length sleeves make it a perfect transitional piece.

## Sizing
**To fit bust:**
*   **S:** 81-91 cm (32-36")
*   **M:** 97-102 cm (38-40")
*   **L:** 107-112 cm (42-44")
*   **XL:** 117-122 cm (46-48")
*   **2XL:** 127-132 cm (50-52")

**Finished Bust Circumference (approx. 15-18cm positive ease):**
*   **S:** 107 cm
*   **M:** 118 cm
*   **L:** 129 cm
*   **XL:** 136 cm
*   **2XL:** 147 cm

**Finished Length (Shoulder to Hem):**
*   54 (56, 58, 60, 62) cm

## Materials
*   **Yarn:** DK weight wool or wool blend. Approx. 950 (1050, 1150, 1250, 1350) metres.
*   **Needles:** 
    *   3.25 mm (UK 10 / US 3) straight needles for ribbing.
    *   4.0 mm (UK 8 / US 6) straight needles for main body.
    *   3.25 mm (UK 10 / US 3) circular needle (40cm) for neckband.
*   **Notions:** Stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle.

## Tension (Gauge)
22 stitches and 30 rows to 10 cm measured over stockinette stitch using 4.0 mm needles.
*Check your tension carefully. If you have more stitches, use larger needles. If you have fewer stitches, use smaller needles.*

## Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **beg:** beginning
*   **rem:** remaining
*   **RS:** right side
*   **WS:** wrong side
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 together (decrease 1 st, right-leaning)
*   **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (decrease 1 st, left-leaning)
*   **rept:** repeat

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## Instructions

### Back
**Ribbing:**
Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 118 (130, 142, 150, 162) sts.
*   **Row 1 (RS):** K2, *p2, k2; rept from * to end.
*   **Row 2 (WS):** P2, *k2, p2; rept from * to end.
Continue in rib until work measures 6 cm, ending with a WS row.

**Main Body:**
Change to 4.0 mm needles.
*   **Row 1 (RS):** Knit to end.
*   **Row 2 (WS):** Purl to end.
Continue in stockinette stitch (st st) without shaping until back measures 54 (56, 58, 60, 62) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
*[Tech Check: This creates the straight side required for a drop shoulder. No armhole binding off is required for this style.]*

**Shoulder Shaping:**
Bind off 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts at the beg of the next 6 rows.
*[Math Check S: 118 - (11x6) = 52 sts rem]*
*[Math Check M: 130 - (13x6) = 52 sts rem]*
*[Math Check L: 142 - (15x6) = 52 sts rem]*
*[Math Check XL: 150 - (16x6) = 54 sts rem]*
*[Math Check 2XL: 162 - (18x6) = 54 sts rem]*

Bind off remaining 52 (52, 52, 54, 54) sts for back neck.

### Front
Work as for Back until piece measures 45 (47, 48, 50, 52) cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (Approx. 9-10 cm before final length).

**Shape Left Neck:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** K48 (54, 60, 63, 69), turn. Leave rem sts on a holder.
*   **Next Row (WS):** Purl to end.
*   **Decrease Row (RS):** Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [1 st decreased]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) more times.
*[Math Check S: 48 - 5 decs = 43 sts]*
*[Math Check M: 54 - 5 decs = 49 sts]*
*[Math Check L: 60 - 5 decs = 55 sts]*
*[Math Check XL: 63 - 5 decs = 58 sts]*
*[Math Check 2XL: 69 - 5 decs = 64 sts]*

Work straight until Front matches Back length to shoulder start, ending with a WS row.

**Shape Left Shoulder:**
Bind off 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts at beg of next row (RS). Work 1 row even.
Bind off 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts at beg of next row (RS). Work 1 row even.
Bind off rem 10 (12, 14, 15, 17) sts. Note: The final bind off count is adjusted slightly to account for the neck shaping remainder.
*[Math Check S: 43 - 11 - 11 = 21 rem? No, previous calculation for back shoulder total was 33 sts. 11+11+11=33. Corrected: 11, 11, 10 for the three steps. Total 32 used for shoulder, plus neck sts]*

*Correction on Shoulder Math:*
Let's verify Shoulder width vs Neck width.
Back Neck: 52 sts.
Total S width: 118 sts.
Shoulders S: (118 - 52) / 2 = 33 sts per shoulder.
Left Front Neck start: 48 sts.
Neck decreases: 5 sts.
Remaining for shoulder: 43 sts.
Wait, 43 sts is larger than the 33 sts needed for the shoulder. This means the initial neck opening was too narrow.
*Recalculating Front Neck start:*
Shoulder goal: 33 (39, 45, 48, 54) sts.
Add 5 decreases: Start neck shaping with 38 (44, 50, 53, 59) sts on the needle.
Centre neck sts to put on holder: Total sts - (2 * Side sts).
S: 118 - (38*2) = 42 sts holder.
M: 130 - (44*2) = 42 sts holder.
L: 142 - (50*2) = 42 sts holder.
XL: 150 - (53*2) = 44 sts holder.
2XL: 162 - (59*2) = 44 sts holder.

*Revised Left Neck Instructions:*
**Next Row (RS):** K38 (44, 50, 53, 59), turn. Leave rem sts on a holder.
Work decreases as above (5 times).
*[Math Check S: 38 start - 5 dec = 33 sts rem for shoulder. Matches Back.]*
Work straight to shoulder height.
**Shape Left Shoulder:**
Bind off 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts at beg of next row (RS).
Work WS row.
Bind off 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts at beg of next row (RS).
Work WS row.
Bind off rem 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) sts.

**Shape Right Neck:**
With RS facing, slip centre 42 (42, 42, 44, 44) sts onto a holder. Join yarn to rem sts.
Knit to end.
**Next Row (WS):** Purl to end.
**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to end.
**Next Row (WS):** Purl to end.
Repeat last 2 rows 4 times.
Work straight to shoulder height.
Bind off shoulder sts in steps on WS rows (mirroring Left Front).

### Sleeves (Make 2)
*Note: Because this is a drop shoulder, the sleeve is worked straight at the top (no sleeve cap). The 3/4 length means the sleeve is shorter than standard.*

Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sts.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 cm.

Change to 4.0 mm needles.
Work 4 rows in st st.
**Increase Row (RS):** K2, M1L, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2.
Work 5 (5, 5, 5, 5) rows straight.
Repeat these 6 rows 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) more times.
*[Math Check S Increases: 14 times = +28 sts. Start 50 + 2 + 28 = 80 sts.]*
*[Math Check 2XL Increases: 18 times = +36 sts. Start 66 + 2 + 36 = 104 sts.]*

**Total Stitch Count:** 80 (86, 92, 98, 104) sts.
**Sleeve Width at Top:** Approx. 36 (39, 41, 44, 47) cm.
Continue straight until sleeve measures 28 (29, 30, 31, 31) cm from cast on, or desired 3/4 length.
Bind off all sts loosely.

### Assembly & Neckband
1.  **Block:** Wet block pieces to finished measurements. This is crucial for drop shoulder seams to lie flat.
2.  **Shoulders:** Seam right shoulder using mattress stitch. Seam left shoulder.
3.  **Neckband:**
    *   With RS facing and 3.25 mm circular needle, pick up and knit sts around the neckline:
    *   Pick up 16 sts down left front neck slope.
    *   Knit across 42 (42, 42, 44, 44) from front holder.
    *   Pick up 16 sts up right front neck slope.
    *   Pick up and knit 52 (52, 52, 54, 54) sts from back neck edge.
    *   **Total:** ~ 126 (126, 126, 130, 130) sts. (Ensure total is divisible by 4).
    *   Work in k2, p2 rib in the round for 3 cm. Cast off loosely in rib.
4.  **Sleeves:** Mark the centre of the bound-off edge of the sleeve. Pin this to the shoulder seam. Pin the edges of the sleeve to the vertical edge of the body. Sew sleeve to body.
5.  **Side Seams:** Sew side seams and underarm seams continuously using mattress stitch. Leave the bottom 6cm of the side seams open for a split hem if desired, or sew completely closed.
6.  **Finishing:** Weave in all ends.