purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
   - User wants a scoop neck raglan pullover with an empire waist pleating detail, in DK weight, beginner difficulty
   - Key design features to reconcile:
     - Top-down raglan construction (from template)
     - Scoop neck (wider, lower neckline than crew neck - needs more cast-on stitches and a shaped neckband)
     - Empire waist pleating: This is a distinctive feature - pleating at the empire waist (just below the bust) creates a gathered/pleated effect. For knitting, "pleating" at the empire waist typically means:
       - Working to the empire waist point (approximately 1-2" below the bust)
       - Creating a fold-over pleat by picking up stitches from a row below and knitting together, OR
       - Using a series of increases followed by decreases to create a gathered/ruffled effect, OR
       - A classic knitted pleat: work extra stitches, then fold and knit together
     - For beginner level, I'll use a simpler approach: work the body to empire waist, then do a yarn-over/decrease eyelet row to create a gathering point, then work a skirt portion with slight A-line flare. Actually, let me think more carefully.
     - "Pleating at empire waist" - classic knit pleating involves: working the fabric at 3x width, then folding and knitting stitches together. This creates actual box pleats or knife pleats. However, for a beginner pattern, this might be complex.
     - Better beginner approach: A "gathered" effect achieved by: working the body to empire waist, doing a turning row (purl round on RS), then increasing for a skirt, creating the visual effect of pleating/gathering. OR use a simple pleat: cast on extra stitches at the empire waist point, then fold groups of 3 stitches together to create pleats.
     - I'll design the pleating as: at the empire waist, work a simple box pleat by having extra "pleat" stitches that get folded in (3 stitches become 1 at the pleat points). This is actually manageable for a beginner if explained clearly.
     - Actually, for TRUE beginner level, let me use a simpler pleating method: Work the fitted bodice top-down, then at the empire waist line, pick up and work from a designated round using a "knit together" technique to create knife pleats. The skirt is then worked in the round with normal stockinette.
     - Simplest true pleat for beginners: At the empire waist, work extra stitches (3x the number of pleat stitches), then on the pleat joining round, slip stitches onto a cable needle, fold the fabric, and k3tog (one from each layer) to form pleats. This creates real fabric pleats. I'll design this carefully.
     - Let me plan the empire waist pleat: The bodice is worked fitted. At the empire waist, we pause the body and add a "pleat section" - this means: we work the bodice, then at the empire waist round, we'll work a pleat joining round. The skirt portion below the empire waist will have additional stitches for the pleats pre-worked, then folded in.
     - Revised approach: Work bodice to empire waist. At that point, increase dramatically (e.g., triple the stitch count or add a large number of stitches). Work a few rounds even. Then on the pleat-joining round, use a technique where groups of 3 stitches are folded and knit together (k3tog-tbl with a st from the needle and 2 from behind). This creates box pleats or knife pleats.
     - Wait - for beginner, let me simplify further. I'll do knife pleats: at the empire waist, the extra stitches are worked first as a "pleat underlayer" for a few rows, then folded and joined. This is actually an intermediate technique...
     - For beginner label + empire waist pleating, I'll use this method: 
       1. Work bodice to just below bust (empire waist)
       2. Work a purl turning ridge (creates a visual line)
       3. Triple the stitch count by working (k1, m1, k1, m1, k1) in each stitch or similar
       4. Work downward for the "pleat depth" (maybe 6 rows)
       5. Fold the pleats (groups of 3 live stitches = 1 pleat) and knit together
       6. Continue working the skirt in round
     - Actually this is HOW pleating typically works in knitting. Let me commit to this approach.

   **Pleat Design Decision:**
   - I'll work the bodice to empire waist (approximately 3-4" below the underarm/bust)
   - On the Pleat Setup Round: increase to create 3x the working stitches in the pleat zones (front and/or all around)
   - Work 6 rounds even (this forms the pleat underlap fabric)
   - On the Pleat Joining Round: fold every 3 stitches and k3tog to rejoin to working stitch count
   - Continue with skirt in round (with some ease) to hem
   
   Actually, let me reconsider the construction more carefully for clarity:
   
   **True Knife Pleat Method:**
   - Work body to empire waist with X stitches
   - On Pleat Increase Round: Increase to 3X stitches (each stitch worked as k1fb, k1fb or use M1s)
   - Work 1" (about 5-6 rounds) even on the increased stitches
   - Pleat Joining Round: *Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front (or back), k next 3 sts together (1 from cable needle front layer, 1 from cable needle back layer, 1 from left needle)* - creates knife pleats
   - After joining: back to X stitches, then work skirt to hem
   
   Hmm, k3tog across all stitches simultaneously requires: for each "pleat unit" of 3 stitches, the first forms the front of the pleat, the second is the fold, the third is the back. So you'd hold 2 sts on cable needle (folded behind or in front), then k the held st + 1 remaining st together... 
   
   Let me look at this more clearly:
   
   For a simple knife pleat in knitting:
   - Have 3 sts representing 1 finished st
   - Slip 1st st to cable needle, hold in front
   - Slip 2nd st to a second cable needle, hold in back  
   - K the 3rd st, then k the st from front cable needle together... 
   
   This is getting complex for beginners. Let me use the simplest version:
   
   **Beginner-Friendly Pleating Method (Mock Pleats / Gathered Effect):**
   - Work bodice to empire waist
   - On Pleat Round: Work (k1, m1) across to double stitch count
   - Work 6 rounds even on doubled stitches (this hangs loosely)
   - On Gathering Round: k2tog across to return to original stitch count
   - This creates a soft "gathered/ruched" effect at the empire waist, simulating pleating
   - Continue skirt to hem
   
   This is beginner-appropriate and creates a lovely empire waist detail. I'll call it "pleating" as it creates a gathered/pleated visual effect. For a true pleat, I'll mention a variation.

   Actually, I want to be more precise. Let me think about what creates an actual pleat vs. gathering:
   - Gathering = puckered fabric drawn in
   - Pleating = folded fabric creating structured folds
   
   For a knit pleat that's beginner friendly, the simplest true pleat is:
   - Work extra fabric (the "pleat underlayer") 
   - Fold it behind the main fabric and knit the layers together
   
   Let me try this construction:
   1. Work bodice to empire waist with N stitches
   2. At empire waist: work a purl round (creates visual ridge)
   3. Now work "pleat underlayers": Cast on or continue with extra stitches... 
   
   OK, I think I'm overcomplicating this. Here's the most beginner-friendly ACTUAL pleat technique:

   **Simple Box Pleat at Empire Waist:**
   - Work bodice in round to empire waist with N stitches
   - Purl 1 round (turning/ridge round)
   - Now, INCREASE for pleat: work (k1, M1, k1, M1, k1) = making 5 sts from 3 sts in pleat zones, or simply M1 after every stitch (double the count)
   - Work 8 rounds on increased stitches
   - PLEAT JOINING: hold 2 sts on cable needle in front, k the next 3 sts together with 1 from cable needle... 
   
   You know what - let me just use the clean, classic approach for a knitting pattern:

   **The Approach I'll Use:**
   At the empire waist, I'll work what I'll call "Knife Pleats" using this method:
   - The body is worked to empire waist with N stitches  
   - Triple the stitches on a Pleat Increase Round (each 1 st becomes 3 sts using [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] in one stitch? No that's 5 not 3)
   - Actually: each 1 st becomes 3 sts: [k into front, back, front] = k1fb twice? No...
     - kfb = 2 sts from 1
     - kfbf = 3 sts from 1 (k into front, then back without dropping, then front of same st)
   - So: increase round: kfbf across = 3x stitches. If N = 120, now 360 sts.
   - Work 10 rounds even
   - Pleat joining round: *sl 2 sts purlwise to cable needle, hold in front, k next st, k2tog from cable needle (fold the 2 cable needle sts together and k as one)* — Wait this doesn't work cleanly.
   
   Let me look at this differently. Here's a well-known knitting pleat technique:
   
   **Clean Beginner Pleat - The "Fold and Knit Together" Method:**
   
   For every 3 pleat stitches → 1 finished stitch:
   - Slip 2 sts to a stitch holder/cable needle (the "pleat underlap")
   - These 2 sts fold BEHIND the next st on the needle
   - K3tog: 1 st from left needle + 2 from cable needle held behind
   
   So the Pleat Round process: working in units of 3 sts:
   - Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold behind work
   - K next st on left needle together with 2 sts from cable needle = k3tog-style
   
   But wait - in this approach, the stitches going onto the cable needle are from the SAME round, not previously worked fabric. So this doesn't create a fabric pleat, just a decrease.
   
   For a TRUE knit pleat with fold, the fabric needs to be pre-worked. Here's the correct method:

   **Correct Knit Pleat Construction:**
   1. Work 3 layers simultaneously:
      - The main body has stitches
      - You work extra stitches for the pleat fold
   
   OR the more practical method:
   1. Work bodice with N stitches to empire waist
   2. On Pleat Setup Round: Increase to 3N stitches (3x the pleat stitches)
   3. Work "pleat fabric" for 10 rounds on 3N stitches (this extra fabric will fold into pleats)
   4. On Pleat Fold Round: *Place next 2 sts on cable needle in front, fold cable needle back so cable needle sts are behind right needle; k1 from left needle (front fabric), k1 from cable needle (fold fabric), k1 from cable needle (back fabric), but knitting all 3 together...* 
   
   Hmm. I think what I want is:
   - 3 sts of fabric → folded to create 1 st of pleat
   - The way to do this: fold the fabric physically so 3 layers stack, then knit through all 3
   
   For a circular piece, the **practical beginner-friendly pleat** that actually works:
   
   After working the bodice to empire waist:
   - Work a "pleat skirt section" flat (or in round) with 3x the stitches
   - Work for the pleat depth
   - Then fold into pleats and knit off
   
   **Final Decision for Pattern:**
   
   I'll use this clean method that is truly beginner-accessible:
   
   **Empire Waist Pleat Method:**
   1. Work bodice to empire waist (N sts)
   2. **Pleat Setup Round**: Work (kfb, kfb, k1) across = each 3 sts becomes 5 sts? No...
   
   I'm going to make a final, clear decision:
   
   The empire waist pleating in this pattern will be created using a **simple knife pleat technique**:
   
   1. Body is worked to empire waist with N stitches
   2. **Pleat Increase Round**: (k1, M1) around = 2N stitches (doubled)  
   3. Work 8 rounds even on 2N stitches (this is the pleat "underlap" fabric)
   4. **Pleat Joining Round**: k2tog around = back to N stitches
   5. Continue skirt section in the round
   
   Wait, but this just creates a ruffle/gather, not a pleat. A pleat requires FOLDING.
   
   You know what, for a truly achievable beginner pattern, I'll call it "gathered pleating" and use the ruffle method. The effect is similar visually in knitting and much more achievable. I'll note it creates a "gathered pleat effect." OR I can call them "soft pleats."
   
   **FINAL DECISION**: I will use a clean, actual pleat construction that IS beginner-doable with clear instructions:
   
   The method: At the empire waist, I'll use "fold-over pleats" made by:
   1. Work to empire waist (N sts)
   2. Purl 1 round (creates a turning ridge - this is the empire waist "seam" line)
   3. Work stockinette DOWN for 6 rounds (this becomes the "inside" of the pleat fold, worked in the opposite direction from the RS)
   4. Then work a **pleat joining round**: Hold the work so the first 6 rows fold inward (to inside of garment), insert needle through live st AND corresponding st from 6 rows below (the turning ridge), and k2tog across → creates a neat fold
   5. Then increase for skirt and work to hem
   
   WAIT - this is actually a hemming technique, creating a folded hem at empire waist, not a pleat.
   
   Let me just commit clearly. In knitting, "pleating at empire waist" most commonly means one of:
   A) A gathered ruffle effect
   B) Actual box/knife pleats with folded fabric
   
   For a beginner pattern, option A is more appropriate. I'll use:
   - Increase round at empire waist (triple stitches for skirt fullness, with pleat points that gather back in)
   - OR I'll do ACTUAL pleats at set intervals with gathering between them
   
   **ABSOLUTE FINAL DECISION:**
   
   I'll work true box pleats at the empire waist. They'll be worked at set intervals, creating 3 pleats evenly spaced around the body. Between pleats, the fabric is normal. At each pleat point, 3 sts of pre-worked fabric are folded to 1 st. Here's how:
   
   The pattern will have:
   - 6 evenly-spaced pleat points around the body
   - At each pleat point: 12 sts become 4 sts (ratio of 3:1)
   - Between pleats: normal stitches continue
   
   Actually let me just write the pleat instructions in a clean, beginner-friendly way using a well-established technique I know works:

   **The Method I'll Use (Final):**
   
   After working bodice to empire waist:
   - **Pleat Setup Row** (Round): Increase evenly across to a number that's 2.5x the current count to create fullness
   - Work 6 rounds of stockinette on increased sts  
   - **Pleat Fold Round**: Using a cable needle, create knife pleats by: [slip 2 sts to cable needle, fold cable needle sts to back, k next 3 sts together with cable needle sts — but this would be 3 sts on cable needle + 1 on needle = more complex]
   
   OK I need to just commit to the simplest possible explanation that creates a pleat. Here is what I'll do:

   **Simple Box Pleat Instructions (used by many published patterns):**
   
   At empire waist:
   1. Work "pleat section" by tripling stitches in pleat zones only (e.g., 6 pleat zones × 12 sts = 72 sts become 216 sts in pleat zones; remaining sts stay same)
   2. Work 12 rounds on all stitches (pleat zones have extra fabric hanging)
   3. Pleat Joining Round: For each pleat zone, fold the 36 sts into 3 equal sections of 12 sts:
      - Slip 12 sts to cable needle A, hold in front
      - Slip next 12 sts to cable needle B, fold behind first cable needle
      - k12, working through 1 st from each cable needle and 1 st from left needle simultaneously (k3tog style)
   4. This creates 12 sts from 36, returning to original count
   
   This is genuinely a beginner-achievable box pleat technique when written clearly. Many beginner/intermediate patterns use this.
   
   However, I realize the numbers above don't work out cleanly. Let me design the stitch counts properly.
   
   Let me now move to actually planning the pattern stitch counts:

2. **Construction Plan**:

**Gauge**: DK weight
- Standard DK gauge: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on US 6 (4.0 mm) needles
- Let me use: 22 sts / 4" = 5.5 sts per inch; 30 rows / 4" = 7.5 rows per inch

**Sizes**:
- S (34-36"), M (38-40"), L (42-44"), XL (46-48"), 2XL (50-52")
- With 2" positive ease (fitted with ease, empire waist style):
  - Finished bust: S=38", M=42", L=46", XL=50", 2XL=54"
  
Wait - for an empire waist style with pleating, some ease is good. Let me use:
  - S: 36" finished bust (1" ease for S 34-36")
  - Actually let me use 2" positive ease across the board:
  - S: 36", M: 40", L: 44", XL: 48", 2XL: 52"
  
**Body stitch counts** (at 5.5 sts/inch):
  - S: 36 × 5.5 = 198 sts → round to 200 sts (must be divisible by 4 for raglan, and by pleat number)
  - M: 40 × 5.5 = 220 sts
  - L: 44 × 5.5 = 242 sts
  - XL: 48 × 5.5 = 264 sts
  - 2XL: 52 × 5.5 = 286 sts → round to 288

Let me reconsider. For raglan, I need stitch counts divisible by 4 (for 4 raglan sections). For pleats, I want 6 pleats (evenly distributed), so I want a count divisible by 6 as well for the skirt section.

LCM of 4 and 6 = 12. So body stitches should be divisible by 12.

- S: 36 × 5.5 = 198 → 204 (17 × 12) sts
- M: 40 × 5.5 = 220 → 216 (18 × 12) sts → makes finished bust: 216/5.5 = 39.3" ✓ 
- L: 44 × 5.5 = 242 → 240 (20 × 12) sts → makes finished bust: 240/5.5 = 43.6" ✓
- XL: 48 × 5.5 = 264 → 264 (22 × 12) sts ✓
- 2XL: 52 × 5.5 = 286 → 288 (24 × 12) sts → makes finished bust: 288/5.5 = 52.4" ✓

Let me recalculate S: 204/5.5 = 37.1" → finished bust 37.1". For a 34-36" bust, that's about 1.1-3.1" ease. That works.

So body stitch counts (total, in the round): 
- S: 204, M: 216, L: 240, XL: 264, 2XL: 288

Front + Back stitches (each half):
- S: 102, M: 108, L: 120, XL: 132, 2XL: 144

**Top-Down Raglan Construction:**

For raglan top-down, I need to work out:
- Cast-on for scoop neck
- Raglan increases
- Yoke depth

**Scoop Neck:**
- Scoop neck is wider and lower than a crew neck
- For a scoop neck, cast on more stitches than crew neck
- Scoop neckline typically: about 7-8" wide and 3-4" deep
- For raglan scoop neck top-down, the neckline shape is worked with short rows or by casting on more front stitches

For a top-down scoop neck raglan:
- The back neck is fairly straight
- The front curves down more deeply
- This can be achieved with short rows at the beginning, OR by simply having more front stitches in the initial cast-on and working short rows

**Initial Cast-On for Scoop Neck Raglan:**

Standard top-down raglan starting point:
- Back neck stitches: approx 8-10" wide × 5.5 sts/inch = 44-55 sts
- For a raglan, the initial arrangement is:
  [Back neck] [raglan] [Left sleeve] [raglan] [Front neck] [raglan] [Right sleeve] [raglan]
  
For scoop neck, I'll use short rows to shape the front neck dip.

Let me define the initial cast-on:

**Neckline stitches** (after shaping):
- Back: 40% of total neck circumference
- Front: 30-35% (scoop is narrower initially, but deeper)
- Each sleeve: 10-12%

Actually, let me approach this differently. For a scoop neck raglan:

The back neck width ≈ 7" = 7 × 5.5 = 38.5 → 40 sts
The front neck width ≈ 9" (scoop is wider) = 9 × 5.5 = 49.5 → 48 sts  
Wait, scoop neck is actually WIDER than crew at the opening, spanning almost shoulder to shoulder.

Scoop neck characteristics:
- Width: shoulder-to-shoulder (broad), approximately 13-15" wide
- Depth: 3-4" below collarbone

Hmm, but in a top-down raglan, the "cast on" is for the neckline opening. The shape is defined by the ratio of front:back:sleeve stitches.

For a scoop neck raglan:
- Typically, the scoop is achieved by having MORE stitches at the front neck (wider cast-on) and adding short rows to deepen the front

Let me look at this practically:

**Standard raglan neck cast-on proportions:**
For a medium-sized sweater with 5.5 sts/inch:
- Total neckline circumference at cast-on ≈ 16-18" → 88-99 sts
- Distribution: Back 34%, Front 30%, Each sleeve 18% (standard crew)
- For scoop neck: Front more like 38-40%, Back 34%, sleeves smaller

Let me design the scoop neck CO:
- Start with a provisional CO (Judy's Magic Cast On or backward loop) or a regular CO for the neckband
- For a scoop neck, I'll use short rows at the beginning to shape the deeper front

Let me set up the initial cast-on stitch counts (before increases begin):

I'll use a simple approach: 
- Back neck: ~7.5" = 41 sts → round to 40
- Each sleeve: ~3" = 17 sts → round to 16  
- Front neck: ~8.5" = 47 sts → round to 48 (wider for scoop)
- Raglan markers: 4 (negligible stitches, just markers)

Initial CO: 40 + 16 + 48 + 16 = 120 sts + 4 markers (raglan lines)

Hmm, but the scoop neck also needs to be deeper. I'll shape this with short rows worked on the BACK before joining in the round, or I can shape the front neck after joining.

Actually, for TOP-DOWN scoop neck, the front neck shaping is done FIRST (since the front is lower, we need to add height to the back):

Method: 
1. Work short rows on BACK (adding height to raise the back of neck) - this means working short rows back and forth on the back stitches
2. OR: Work short rows on the FRONT to lower it

In top-down raglan, the typical scoop neck method:
1. Cast on all stitches in a provisional CO or use backward loop
2. Work back and forth (flat) on the BACK section with short rows to raise back neck
3. Join in the round
4. Work scoop neckband after (pick up and knit)

OR alternatively:
1. Cast on for the back + sleeve + front + sleeve
2. Work short rows on FRONT to deepen the scoop (work less rows on center front)
3. Join in round and begin raglan increases

For beginner level, I'll simplify: use a wider initial CO with a simple short row setup, then work the scoop neckband at the end (picking up stitches around the neck).

**Revised Scoop Neck Approach (Beginner-Friendly):**
1. CO stitches for the back neck
2. Work flat (back and forth) for the back yoke only, using short rows to add back neck height
3. Join in the round, pick up and establish front neck stitches
4. Work raglan increases
5. After sweater is complete, pick up stitches around neckline and work a shallow ribbed scoop neckband

Hmm, this is getting complex. Let me use a different, genuinely beginner-friendly approach:

**Simplest Beginner Scoop Neck Raglan:**
1. Cast on for back neck width only using a simple cast-on
2. Join in round, placing markers for raglan lines, back neck, and front neck stitches
3. Work raglan increases (M1L/M1R at raglan lines)
4. Use short rows early on to add front neck depth - OR use a different approach

ACTUALLY, the very simplest approach for a scoop neck top-down raglan for beginners:

Cast on at the top of the back neck. Work flat for short rows to build back neck height. Then cast on front neck stitches, join in round. This is standard for deeper scoops.

Let me just plan the construction clearly:

**Construction:**
1. CO 40 (40, 40, 44, 44) sts for back neck
2. Work 6 short rows (wrap & turn or German short rows) to build up back neck height
3. Set up raglan: Back (40) | raglan marker | Left sleeve (16) | raglan marker | Front (48) | raglan marker | Right sleeve (16) | raglan marker = 120 sts plus place stitch markers
4. Wait - I need to CO the sleeve and front sts too at some point.

You know what, let me just use the most common beginner approach where everything is cast on at once and short rows are kept to a minimum:

**FINAL CONSTRUCTION PLAN:**

**Provisional Cast-On** (all sizes starting position):

For a scoop neck raglan, I'll establish the initial stitch counts:
- Back neck: 36 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts
- Right sleeve: 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts
- Front neck: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts [wider than back for scoop]  
- Left sleeve: 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts
- 4 raglan stitch markers placed

Total initial: 92 (96, 108, 116, 124) sts

Then work raglan increases of 8 sts every other round (M1L before marker, M1R after marker × 4 markers = 8 increases per RS round).

Number of raglan increase rounds needed to reach body stitch count:

Final body stitch count for each size: 204, 216, 240, 264, 288

The body stitches (front + back) need to equal roughly 2/3 of the total final body count. The sleeve stitches will be put on hold.

Let me think about how raglan increases work:
- Each increase round adds 8 sts total (2 per raglan line, 4 raglan lines)
- 2 sts go to each sleeve section, 4 sts go to the body (2 front, 2 back) per round

Actually: at each marker, M1L goes to one section, M1R goes to the next section. So:
- Back section gains 2 sts per increase round (1 from each side)
- Each sleeve gains 2 sts per increase round
- Front section gains 2 sts per increase round

After X increase rounds:
- Back sts: 36 + 2X
- Front sts: 40 + 2X  
- Each sleeve: 8 + 2X

For body separation, I need:
- Front + Back = finished body stitches
- (36 + 2X) + (40 + 2X) = 76 + 4X (for Small)

Target body at separation: For S (204 total), body = 204 sts. But at separation, we also add underarm CO stitches, typically 4-8 sts per side.

Let me say we add 6 underarm CO stitches per side (12 total for the body):
Body at separation: front + back + underarm COs = 204
So front + back = 204 - 12 = 192 sts
Front + back from increases: 76 + 4X = 192
4X = 116
X = 29 increase rounds

After 29 increase rounds:
- Back: 36 + 58 = 94 sts
- Front: 40 + 58 = 98 sts ✓ (slightly different due to scoop neck shaping - this is fine)
- Each sleeve: 8 + 58 = 66 sts

Body at separation: 94 + 98 + 12 (underarm) = 204 ✓
Sleeve: 66 sts each (reasonable for DK weight)

Hmm, 29 increase rounds at every-other round = 58 total rounds of yoke = about 58/7.5 rows per inch ≈ 7.75" deep yoke. That seems reasonable for a raglan yoke.

Let me check the other sizes:

**M: Initial = 36 + 44 + 8 + 8 = 96**
Wait, I need to recalculate. Let me redo initial sts by size:

Actually, let me simplify. For all sizes, I'll use the same initial back/sleeve counts with scaled front:

S: Back=36, Sleeves=8 ea, Front=40; Total initial=92
M: Back=36, Sleeves=8 ea, Front=44; Total initial=96
L: Back=40, Sleeves=10 ea, Front=48; Total initial=108
XL: Back=44, Sleeves=10 ea, Front=52; Total initial=116
2XL: Back=48, Sleeves=10 ea, Front=56; Total initial=124

Now for raglan increases, needing to solve for X (number of RS increase rounds):

For each size, body sts at separation + underarm CO = total body sts

I'll use 6 underarm CO sts per side (3 front + 3 back = no, it's 6 added to total body, 3 per underarm × 2 underarms for body):
Actually, underarm: typically you CO stitches at the underarm that become part of the body (and part of the sleeve). Let's say 8 sts CO per underarm, which is split between body and sleeve or all added to body.

Standard: CO 4-8 sts at each underarm. These stitches are picked up by the sleeve later. For the body, they bridge the gap.

Let me use 6 sts CO per underarm (total of 12 added to body):

**Size S:**
Target body: 204 sts = (36 + 2X) + (40 + 2X) + 12
204 = 76 + 4X + 12 = 88 + 4X
4X = 116
X = 29 increase rounds

Back at separation: 36 + 58 = 94
Front at separation: 40 + 58 = 98
Each sleeve: 8 + 58 = 66
Body: 94 + 98 + 12 = 204 ✓
Total yoke sts before separation: 94 + 98 + 66 + 66 = 324

**Size M:**
Target body: 216 sts
(36 + 2X) + (44 + 2X) + 12 = 216
80 + 4X + 12 = 216
4X = 124
X = 31 increase rounds

Back at separation: 36 + 62 = 98
Front at separation: 44 + 62 = 106
Wait, 98 + 106 = 204... + 12 = 216 ✓
Each sleeve: 8 + 62 = 70 sts

**Size L:**
Target body: 240 sts
(40 + 2X) + (48 + 2X) + 12 = 240
88 + 4X + 12 = 240
4X = 140
X = 35 increase rounds

Back at separation: 40 + 70 = 110
Front at separation: 48 + 70 = 118
Body: 110 + 118 + 12 = 240 ✓
Each sleeve: 10 + 70 = 80 sts

**Size XL:**
Target body: 264 sts
(44 + 2X) + (52 + 2X) + 12 = 264
96 + 4X + 12 = 264
4X = 156
X = 39 increase rounds

Back at separation: 44 + 78 = 122
Front at separation: 52 + 78 = 130
Body: 122 + 130 + 12 = 264 ✓
Each sleeve: 10 + 78 = 88 sts

**Size 2XL:**
Target body: 288 sts
(48 + 2X) + (56 + 2X) + 12 = 288
104 + 4X + 12 = 288
4X = 172
X = 43 increase rounds

Back at separation: 48 + 86 = 134
Front at separation: 56 + 86 = 142
Body: 134 + 142 + 12 = 288 ✓
Each sleeve: 10 + 86 = 96 sts

These look reasonable. Sleeve stitches: 66, 70, 80, 88, 96 sts.

**Yoke depth** (increase rounds + plain rounds = 2 rounds per increase pair):
Total rounds = X × 2 (every other round increased):
S: 29 × 2 = 58 rounds = 58/7.5 = 7.7" 
M: 31 × 2 = 62 rounds = 8.3"
L: 35 × 2 = 70 rounds = 9.3"
XL: 39 × 2 = 78 rounds = 10.4"
2XL: 43 × 2 = 86 rounds = 11.5"

These yoke depths seem a bit much for a raglan. Typical armhole depth for raglan is 7-9". Let me check whether these yoke depths are reasonable:

Yoke depth determines armhole depth. For DK weight:
- S (34-36"): armhole depth ~7-7.5" → 7.5 × 7.5 = ~56 rounds, ÷ 2 = 28 increase rounds ≈ close to 29 ✓
- M (38-40"): ~7.5-8" armhole depth → 8 × 7.5 = 60 rounds ÷ 2 = 30 ≈ 31 ✓
- L (42-44"): ~8-8.5" → 8.5 × 7.5 = 63.75 ÷ 2 = ~32, but I got 35... let me recheck
- XL: 9" armhole → 9 × 7.5 = 67.5 ÷ 2 = ~34, I got 39... let me reconsider

Hmm, the discrepancy in L/XL/2XL suggests my body stitch target or underarm CO is too high. Let me reconsider.

Actually, maybe I should reduce the underarm CO or adjust the targets. Let me reconsider the body stitch distribution.

The target body stitches are total stitch count around the whole body. Let me verify:
S: 204 ÷ 5.5 = 37.1" circumference → finished bust (all the way around) ✓

The armhole depth (yoke height from armhole to neck) should equal approximately:
- S: 7.0"
- M: 7.5" 
- L: 8.0"
- XL: 8.5"
- 2XL: 9.0"

Rounds for yoke depth:
- S: 7.0 × 7.5 = 52.5 rounds, total rounds (all rounds) = 52.5
  Increase rounds: 52.5 / 2 = 26.25 → 26 increase rounds

Let me redo with more realistic armhole depths:

S: 7.0" × 7.5 r/in = 52.5 rounds → 26 increase rounds
M: 7.5" × 7.5 = 56.25 rounds → 28 increase rounds  
L: 8.0" × 7.5 = 60 rounds → 30 increase rounds
XL: 8.5" × 7.5 = 63.75 rounds → 32 increase rounds
2XL: 9.0" × 7.5 = 67.5 rounds → 34 increase rounds

Now redo body stitch counts with these increase rounds:

**Size S (X = 26):**
Back: 36 + 52 = 88; Front: 40 + 52 = 92
Body from increases: 88 + 92 = 180 + 12 (underarm) = 192 sts
192 ÷ 5.5 = 34.9" circumference... that's a 34.9" finished bust for a S(34-36"), only ~0.9" ease. A bit tight.

Hmm. I need to reconcile armhole depth with body size. The issue is that for a scoop neck (wider initial cast-on), the raglan starts with more stitches than a crew neck, but still doesn't grow fast enough for larger bust measurements in the allotted armhole depth.

Let me try a different approach: adjust the underarm CO and/or starting stitch counts.

Actually, the fundamental issue is: for larger sizes, the chest needs MORE stitches per inch of armhole depth, which can be addressed by:
1. Increasing MORE frequently (every round instead of every other round for some rounds)
2. Starting with MORE stitches at the neck
3. Using a larger underarm CO

Let me try using underarm CO of 10 sts per underarm (20 total for body):

**Revised with 10 sts per underarm CO:**

S (X=26): Back=88, Front=92, Body=88+92+20=200 sts → 200÷5.5=36.4" ✓ (1.4-2.4" ease for 34-36")
M (X=28): Back: 36+56=92, Front: 44+56=100, Body=92+100+20=212 ÷5.5=38.5" → for M(38-40"), ~0.5-2.5" ease ✓
L (X=30): Back: 40+60=100, Front: 48+60=108, Body=100+108+20=228÷5.5=41.5" → for L(42-44")... that's -0.5 to -2.5" ease. TOO SMALL.

The math is not working out because the initial stitch counts aren't scaling enough.

I need to reconsider the initial stitch counts for larger sizes more dramatically, OR use additional increase rows.

Let me try a different approach to initial counts:
S: Back=36, Sleeves=8 ea, Front=40
M: Back=40, Sleeves=10 ea, Front=46
L: Back=44, Sleeves=12 ea, Front=52
XL: Back=50, Sleeves=14 ea, Front=58
2XL: Back=56, Sleeves=16 ea, Front=64

And underarm CO = 12 sts per underarm (24 total per body)... but actually underarm COs add to both body AND need to be picked up for sleeves.

Actually, let me simplify this calculation. I'll use standard underarm CO of 8 sts each side.

**Revised with 8 sts underarm CO each side (16 total added to body):**

S: Initial back=36, sleeve=8ea, front=40
S total initial: 36+8+40+8 = 92
Increases needed: body target - initial body - underarm CO
Target body S: let's say 200 sts
(36+2X) + (40+2X) + 16 = 200
76 + 4X + 16 = 200
4X = 108
X = 27 increase rounds

Yoke = 54 rounds = 54÷7.5 = 7.2" ✓

After 27 rounds:
Back: 36+54=90; Front: 40+54=94; Each sleeve: 8+54=62
Body: 90+94+16=200÷5.5=36.4" ✓
Sleeves: 62 sts each

M: Initial back=40, sleeve=10ea, front=46; total=106
Target body M: 220 sts
(40+2X) + (46+2X) + 16 = 220
86+4X+16 = 220
4X = 118, X = 29.5 → 30 rounds

Back: 40+60=100; Front: 46+60=106; Sleeve: 10+60=70
Body: 100+106+16=222÷5.5=40.4" ✓
Yoke: 60 rounds = 8.0"

L: Initial back=44, sleeve=12ea, front=52; total=120
Target body L: 240 sts
(44+2X)+(52+2X)+16=240
96+4X+16=240
4X=128, X=32 rounds

Back: 44+64=108; Front: 52+64=116; Sleeve: 12+64=76
Body: 108+116+16=240÷5.5=43.6" ✓
Yoke: 64 rounds = 8.5"

XL: Initial back=50, sleeve=14ea, front=58; total=136
Target body XL: 264 sts
(50+2X)+(58+2X)+16=264
108+4X+16=264
4X=140, X=35 rounds

Back: 50+70=120; Front: 58+70=128; Sleeve: 14+70=84
Body: 120+128+16=264÷5.5=48.0" ✓
Yoke: 70 rounds = 9.3"

2XL: Initial back=56, sleeve=16ea, front=64; total=152
Target body 2XL: 288 sts
(56+2X)+(64+2X)+16=288
120+4X+16=288
4X=152, X=38 rounds

Back: 56+76=132; Front: 64+76=140; Sleeve: 16+76=92
Body: 132+140+16=288÷5.5=52.4" ✓
Yoke: 76 rounds = 10.1"

Hmm, XL yoke of 9.3" and 2XL of 10.1" are on the deep side. Typical raglan yoke for XL might be 8.5-9". Let me check if this is okay. For larger sizes, deeper armholes are normal. I'll keep these.

Now, for the EMPIRE WAIST PLEATING:

Empire waist = approximately 1-2" below the underbust/bust line. In a sweater, this is about 1-2" below where the body joins (the underarm).

So after separating sleeves from body, the body is worked approximately:
- 2" down from underarm to empire waist
- Pleat section worked here
- Then continue to hem

**Empire Waist Pleat Construction:**

At empire waist, I'll create simple knife pleats. For the pleat to work evenly, the body stitch count should be divisible by a pleat repeat.

Let me verify body stitch counts (divisibility):
S: 200 sts → for 8 pleats: 200/8=25 sts per pleat group (not divisible nicely)
Let me reconsider.

For pleats, I want the body sts divisible by a pleat unit. Let me use 6 pleats (manageable for beginner):
- 6 pleats need body sts divisible by 6
S: 200 → not divisible by 6. Let me adjust to 198 (divisible by 6, 198/6=33 sts per pleat group)

Hmm, this is getting complicated. Let me step back and redesign the pleat approach.

**Pleat Design:**
I'll create the pleats by working the "pleat fabric" separately and then joining. The number of pleats will be determined by the body stitch count. 

Actually, let me change my approach entirely for the pleating. Instead of working the pleats as part of the main body stitches, I'll:

1. Work bodice to empire waist (main body stitches, let's call them N)
2. At empire waist: create pleated skirt by picking up and casting on additional stitches
   
OR the simplest pleat for beginners:

**Yoke-to-Skirt Method with Knife Pleats:**

At empire waist (2" below underarm):
1. Mark the empire waist round
2. Work a turning/gathering round
3. Increase to 1.5× or 2× the current stitch count
4. Work 8 rounds of stockinette on increased stitches (this is the pleat depth)
5. Join pleats: k2tog across (returns to original count) — for 2× increase
6. Continue to hem on original stitch count

OR for actual knife pleats (every other pleat folds):
1. CO to 1.5× stitches
2. Work 6 rounds
3. k3tog across (groups of 3 sts into 1) — returns to 0.5× original count... hmm, doesn't work with 1.5×

Let me think about this more carefully.

For knife pleats in circular knitting that a BEGINNER can do:

**Method: Actual Box Pleats**

This is the most visually satisfying pleat for an empire waist:

At empire waist:
- Identify N body stitches (say N = 200 for S)
- We want 8 box pleats evenly spaced
- Each box pleat takes 3 units of fabric and folds to 1 unit
- So 8 pleat points, each using 12 sts that fold to 4 sts
- 12 sts × 8 pleat points = 96 sts (in pleats) + remaining body sts
- After pleating: 8 × 4 + (200 - 96) = 32 + 104 = 136 sts for the skirt

Hmm, but then the skirt would be narrower than the bodice. That's not great.

For an empire waist, typically:
- The bodice above the empire waist is FITTED (close to body)
- The skirt below the empire waist FLARES OUT for an A-line or gathered skirt effect

So I should:
1. Work fitted bodice to empire waist (N sts)
2. At empire waist, INCREASE stitches (for the pleated/full skirt)
3. The pleat is the transition, where extra fullness is added

For a beautiful gathered effect at empire waist:
- Bodice: N sts (fitted)
- At empire waist: increase to 1.5N or 2N sts for skirt
- The "pleating" is the gathering of these extra stitches AT the empire waist line

**Final Pleat Method for Pattern (Definitive):**

I'll use KNIFE PLEATS created as follows:

1. Work bodice to empire waist (N sts)
2. **Pleat Setup Round**: (K2, M1) around → increases to 1.5N sts
   S: 200 × 1.5 = 300 sts
   
3. Work 1.5" (about 11 rounds) even on these increased stitches. This creates the "pleat underlap" fabric.

4. **Pleat Joining Round** (creates actual knife pleats):
   For each group of 3 sts:
   - Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold in back
   - Slip next 1 st to a second cable needle, hold in back (these two sts will fold behind the third)
   - Wait, this still doesn't create a FOLD in the fabric
   
   OK I need to accept that true knitting pleats require folding actual layers of pre-knit fabric. Let me use the absolute simplest TRUE pleat method:

**DEFINITIVE SIMPLE PLEAT METHOD:**

I'll treat the pleating as an integrated construction:

At empire waist, the knitter works a "pleat box":
1. Work bodice in the round to 1" below empire waist (N sts)
2. Now work FLAT (back and forth) on HALF the stitches (the front) for 2", creating a panel that will fold into the pleat underlap
   - After working this flat section, these stitches are 2" longer than the back half
   - This extra length folds into a tuck/pleat at the front center (box pleat)
3. This is getting very complex for beginners.

**OK, TRULY FINAL DECISION:**

I'm going to use a SIMPLE, EFFECTIVE, and TRULY BEGINNER-FRIENDLY pleat technique that creates a beautiful visual effect. It's a "soft pleating" effect:

**At the Empire Waist, work a simple gathering transition:**

1. Work bodice to empire waist (N sts)
2. Mark round with stitch markers at 6 evenly-spaced points
3. **Pleat Increase Round**: *(K to 1 st before marker, kfb, SM, kfb)* repeat 6 times, knit to end
   This adds 2 sts per marker = 12 sts total
4. Work 3 more such increase rounds = total 48 extra sts over 4 increase rounds? No, let me just do one big increase:
5. **Single big increase round at empire waist**: (K1, M1) around = N × 1.5 sts... wait that's 1.5N

Let me just use a gathering round that creates visual pleating:

**Simple Gather/Pleat at Empire Waist:**

1. Work bodice to empire waist (N sts)
2. **Gathering Round**: (K1, M1) around = N to 2N sts [doubles the stitches]  
3. Work 1" even [creates the "pleat body"]
4. **Pleat Join Round**: (K2tog) around = 2N back to N sts [returns to body count]

Result: A gathered/ruched band at the empire waist. This creates a VISUAL pleat effect - the doubled stitches are compressed back down to create overlapping folds similar to pleating.

But this is actually a ruching/gathering effect, not a true pleat. For a sweater, this creates a very pretty gathered band.

Actually, you know what? I'll use a combination: a GATHERING effect that creates soft pleats. In the pattern, I'll call it "empire waist gathers" or "gathered pleating." This is beginner-friendly and creates a beautiful empire waist effect in a knitted garment. True knife pleats in knitting are intermediate-to-advanced techniques, and the user asked for BEGINNER level.

For the pattern, I'll:
1. Work bodice to empire waist
2. Work a "gathered pleat" section using doubled stitches
3. Return to body count for skirt
4. Work skirt with slight A-line shaping to hem

But wait, the user explicitly asked for PLEATING. Let me include actual simple pleating that a beginner can follow with clear instructions.

**ABSOLUTE FINAL PLEAT TECHNIQUE (I'm committing to this):**

I will use **inverted box pleats** created with a cable needle technique. Here's the method, adapted for beginner:

At empire waist:
1. Work bodice to empire waist (N sts)
2. **Pleat Setup Round**: Work (k1, kfb, kfb, k1) in specific pleat zones to triple specific groups of stitches. For the REST of the stitches between pleats, work plain k.
3. Work 8 rounds even on ALL stitches.
4. **Pleat Join Round**: At each pleat zone, slip 2 sts to cable needle (hold in front), k next 2 sts, then k the 2 sts from cable needle. This creates the visual fold of a box pleat. Between pleat zones, k plain.

Wait, this creates a cable-style pleat rather than a true fabric pleat, but it DOES create a folded visual effect! Let me develop this:

For each pleat "unit" of 6 sts → folds to create a 2-st wide pleat:
- Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in FRONT
- K next 2 sts
- Slip the 2 cable needle sts back to left needle and k2tog-tbl? 

No wait, for a visual pleat effect that's actually simple:

**INVERTED PLEAT (Final - I'm done deliberating):**

6 sts → Box pleat → 2 sts remain visible (the pleat fold sits behind/in front)

Steps at pleat zones (6 sts each):
1. Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold IN FRONT
2. Slip next 2 sts to another cable needle (or stitch holder), hold IN BACK
3. K the 2 sts on left needle
4. Now bring front cable needle over → k the 2 sts from front cable needle
5. Place back cable needle stitches back on left needle → k the 2 sts

No, this doesn't reduce the stitch count properly.

OK FINAL FINAL decision: I will use a method that creates pleats BEFORE the empire waist line, by working an extra "underlap" section in the round that gets folded in.

Here is the CLEAN METHOD I will write in the pattern:

**Three-Layer Pleat Method:**

Before reaching empire waist:
1. Work to 3" below empire waist with N sts
2. Work "pleat fabric": Place half the stitches (N/2) on a holder (this is the BACK of the body). Work the FRONT half (N/2 sts) back and forth for 3" in stockinette. This is the extra front fabric that will fold into the pleat.
3. Now fold this extra front fabric: fold it upward so it lies behind the front as a tuck. The fabric at the fold line becomes the empire waist line.
4. Place all front sts back on needle (they should line up: the live sts from the folded fabric + the sts waiting below)
5. Work a joining round: k the live st together with corresponding st from 3" below on the original front fabric (or actually: the folded section lies on top of the main fabric and we k2tog through both layers)

Hmm this creates a TUCK, not a pleat, but it's a beautiful empire waist tuck.

ACTUALLY: A tuck at the empire waist IS a form of pleating! A "tucked empire waist" = a horizontal tuck that creates the visual effect of pleating. This is clean, beginner-accessible (I'll write it step by step), and creates the exact visual effect the user wants.

I'll call it "empire waist tuck pleat" in the pattern.

Let me clean this up as actual instructions:

1. Work body in round to [4" below empire waist position] with N sts
2. Mark the beginning of the "pleat zone" with a locking marker on the next round
3. Continue working in round for 2 more inches (the "pleat underlap" - this will fold under)
4. **Turning Round**: Purl 1 round (creates a visual fold line - this becomes the empire waist)
5. Work 1 more inch in stockinette (the "pleat overlap" fabric)
6. **Pleat Joining Round**: Fold the fabric so the Turning Round folds inward and backward. With the fabric folded, insert the right needle through the live stitch ON the needle AND through the corresponding stitch from the locking marker round, then knit them together.
   
   This creates a neat horizontal fold/tuck at the empire waist.

7. Continue working the skirt below in round to hem.

This is actually a TUCK, also known as a HORIZONTAL PLEAT in the fabric world. In garment construction, this is exactly what creates a horizontal tuck at the empire waist.

The instructions would be:
- Work to [X" from underarm]
- Purl 1 round (turning row)
- Work Y more rounds
- Fold the knitting at the purl round so it faces inward
- Join: k2tog (1 live st + 1 st from the corresponding position before the purl round)
- Continue

This is beginner-doable! And it creates a true fabric fold/pleat at the empire waist.

This is what I'll use in the pattern.

**How much fabric to pleat?**
- Pleat depth (fold amount): 1" of fabric folds in = 2" of fabric (1" overlap + 1" underlap before the turning row) gets consumed
- This means: I need to work 2" extra before reaching the actual empire waist position
- The turning round creates the fold line (empire waist visual line)
- After folding, the sweater is 1" shorter than if not folded (the 2" folds to 1" underneath + disappears)

Wait, let me think about this:
- Work 1" of fabric (these sts will fold BEHIND the working fabric = pleat underlap)
- Purl row (this is the FOLD LINE = empire waist)
- Work 1" of fabric (these sts become the visible face of the tuck = pleat overlap/top layer)
- Pleat Joining Round: fold at the purl row, going DOWN/INWARD, join to the round worked 2" earlier (the start of the pleat underlap)

So the total "consumed" fabric: 2" (1" underlap + 1" overlap) folds to create a 1" thick tuck... no wait:
- The 1" underlap + 1" overlap = 2" of fabric
- When folded at the purl row, the underlap goes INWARD (hidden) and the overlap sits on the outside
- They meet and are joined to the work from 2" earlier
- Visually: you see a horizontal fold/ridge at the empire waist (the purl row), below which is the skirt beginning

Actually let me make this simpler:
- Work bodice to 1" ABOVE where empire waist will be
- Purl round (this = empire waist fold line)  
- Work 1" more (this fabric goes BEHIND when you fold at the purl line)
- Joining round: with needle, pick up the stitch from the round that was at the START of the purl round (1" below), and knit together with the live stitch

No wait, I'm confusing direction again. Let me be very explicit:

TOP-DOWN construction: we're knitting FROM TOP toward BOTTOM.

So:
1. We work DOWN from the underarm. The first stitches knit are the HIGHEST.
2. When we reach [empire waist position - 1"], we note this as the "pleat anchor row"
3. Continue working DOWN for 1" (the pleat underlap, knitting further away from the body)
4. Purl 1 round (= the empire waist fold line - this folds back UP toward the body)
5. Work DOWN 1" more (the pleat overlap that will fold UPWARD to cover the underlap)
6. Joining round: fold the fabric UPWARD at the purl row, so the pleat overlap sits on TOP of the underlap. The 1" overlap now covers 1" of underlap. The live stitches on the needle should align with the "pleat anchor row" stitches.
7. K2tog: 1 live stitch + 1 stitch from the anchor row = joining the pleat closed.

After this: the pleat is joined, and the skirt continues from the pleat anchor row position.

So effectively:
- The pleat creates a HORIZONTAL tuck where 2" of fabric (1" underlap + 1" overlap) gets folded to create a crisp fold at the empire waist
- The garment measures 2" LESS than it would without the pleat (that fabric is tucked away)

So I need to add 2" to the bodice length to account for the fabric taken up by the pleat.

This is absolutely achievable for a beginner with clear instructions. I'll include a step-by-step breakdown.

Now I need to determine at what point to start the pleat:
- Empire waist is typically 1-2" below the underbust (which is roughly where the underarm seam is on the sweater body)
- From the underarm, I'd work approximately:
  - 0" to 1" plain: getting started on the body
  - Then start the pleat: 1" anchor fabric, purl turning row, 1" overlap = 2" of pleat fabric
  - After joining pleat: the sweater is at the empire waist level visually
  - Continue to hem: approximately 12-15" of skirt below the empire waist

So the sequence:
1. Work 1" below underarm (plain body)
2. Pleat anchor point marked (with locking stitch marker through the fabric)
3. Work 1" more (pleat underlap)
4. Purl turning round
5. Work 1" more (pleat overlap)
6. Pleat joining round (returns to pleat anchor row level)
7. Work skirt to hem (approximately 12-14" more)

Let me now compile the actual numbers for the pattern:

**Gauge**: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette on US 6 (4.0 mm) needles
- 5.5 sts/inch, 7.5 rounds/inch

**Sizes**: S, M, L, XL, 2XL
**Finished bust**: 36.4 (40.4, 43.6, 48, 52.4)" — let me round these to cleaner numbers

Actually let me clean up the stitch counts:

Let me recalculate with cleaner numbers. Let me fix the body stitch counts first:

I want nice body counts. Let me try multiples of 4 (for raglan) that also divide well:

S: 200 sts → 200/5.5 = 36.4"
M: 220 sts → 220/5.5 = 40.0