Type
Crochet
Difficulty
beginner
Category
kimono
Pattern
<planning> 1. **Design Strategy**: - Woodstock theme = late 1960s/early 1970s festival aesthetic: bohemian, free-spirited, earthy tones with pops of color - Color palette: earthy browns, burnt oranges, mustard yellows, olive greens, dusty purples, cream/natural - Stitch choice: Granny stripe pattern (very on-theme for Woodstock/boho aesthetic) using multiple colors in a stripe sequence - Silhouette: Standard length (mid-thigh) kimono cover-up, slightly longer for boho vibe - Sleeves: 3/4 length to evoke the era - Closure: Fabric ties (fringe-accented) - very Woodstock appropriate - Edge treatment: Shell edging or fringe along hem and sleeve edges for festival feel - Will use worsted weight yarn with DK-ish gauge for good drape - Colors: Name them in a Woodstock-inspired way (Peace Cream, Harvest Gold, Sunset Orange, Forest Moss, Dusty Mauve, Earth Brown) 2. **Construction Plan**: - T-shaped construction, all pieces worked flat - Stitch pattern: Granny Stripe (alternating dc clusters separated by ch-1 spaces, worked in rows) - creates a classic boho stripe effect - Back: Simple rectangle - Left Front & Right Front: Half-width rectangles with straight neck edge - Sleeves: Wide rectangles (3/4 length), same width top to bottom - Assembly: Shoulder seams, set in sleeves perpendicular, side seams, underarm seams - Edging: Shell edging around fronts and neckline; fringe at hem and sleeve edges - Ties: Long crocheted chains with fringe at ends, attached at front opening at waist level 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Kimono must NOT have armhole shaping - check - Sleeves must be rectangular - check - Must be oversized/boxy - will add 8-10" ease - Need to handle 9 sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X - Granny stripe pattern has a multiple - need to establish stitch multiple and ensure all sizes work - The granny stripe repeat: typically worked as *3 dc in ch-sp, ch 1* ā let me plan this carefully - For a standard granny stripe: Foundation ch, then rows of (3dc, ch1) groups - Let me use a simplified granny stripe: each "unit" = 3 dc + 1 ch = 4 sts equivalent in chain - Actually, let me think about this more carefully for stitch count compatibility **Granny Stripe Stitch Pattern:** - Foundation: ch multiples of 4 + 2 (for turning chain) - Row 1: 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 3, 3 dc in next ch* repeat, ch 1, 1 dc in last ch - Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 3 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp* repeat, ch 1, dc in top of t-ch - Color change every 2 rows for stripe effect - This gives a unit of 4 chains = approximately 4 sts **Gauge**: Worsted weight, granny stripe pattern - Standard worsted gauge in dc: ~14 dc = 4 inches, 8 rows = 4 inches - Granny stripe gauge: approximately 3.5 units per 4 inches = roughly 14 dc per 4 inches horizontal - Let me set gauge at: 1 granny stripe repeat (4 chains/3 dc + ch1) = approx 1.25 inches wide - Or better: 16 dc = 4 inches; 8 dc rows = 4 inches (3.5 mm-ish... no, worsted) - For worsted weight: gauge ~14 dc and 8 rows = 4 inches with 5.0mm hook - Granny stripe gauge: approximately 3 pattern repeats + edge = 4 inches? Let me think... - Each repeat (3dc + ch1) ā about 1" to 1.25" wide in worsted - Let me set gauge: 3 pattern repeats = 4 inches (so each repeat ā 1.33") - And 8 rows = 4 inches (2 rows per inch) Actually, let me simplify: I'll set gauge as: - 14 sts and 8 rows = 4 inches in pattern (granny stripe) - Where a "stitch" counts each dc and ch individually for width measurement - Pattern multiple = 4 + 3 for foundation chain Let me recalculate with cleaner numbers: - GAUGE: 3.5 pattern repeats (of 4 sts each) = 4 inches ā ~3.5 dc-groups per 4" - Actually let me just say: 14 dc = 4 inches horizontally in the pattern stitch - And each granny stripe "unit" of 3dc+ch1 = slightly over 1 inch **Let me establish clean gauge:** - 3 pattern repeats = 4 inches wide (each repeat = 4 sts: 3dc + 1ch) - 4 rows = 2 inches tall (2 rows = 1 inch) - Hook: US I-9 / 5.5mm for worsted weight (slightly larger for drape) Actually, let me reconsider. For a cover-up with drape: - Hook: US J-10 / 6.0mm - Gauge: 12 dc = 4 inches; 8 rows = 4 inches (standard for worsted on J hook) - Granny stripe: approximately 12 sts (counting dc + ch) in 4 inches - Each repeat (3dc + ch1 = 4 sts) ā 3 repeats = 12 sts = 4 inches ā - So stitch multiple = 4; each repeat ā 1.33 inches **Body measurements and finished dimensions:** Bust measurements (body): - XS: 30-32" bust ā finished: 38-40" - S: 32-34" ā finished: 40-42" - M: 34-36" ā finished: 42-44" - L: 36-38" ā finished: 44-46" - XL: 38-40" ā finished: 46-48" - 2X: 42-44" ā finished: 50-52" - 3X: 46-48" ā finished: 54-56" - 4X: 50-52" ā finished: 58-60" - 5X: 54-56" ā finished: 62-64" Let me use FINISHED BUST measurements (full circumference of the sweater): - XS: 40" / S: 44" / M: 48" / L: 52" / XL: 56" / 2X: 60" / 3X: 64" / 4X: 68" / 5X: 72" This gives about 8-10" positive ease for most sizes, which is appropriate for a kimono. **Back piece width** (= half of finished bust): - XS: 20" / S: 22" / M: 24" / L: 26" / XL: 28" / 2X: 30" / 3X: 32" / 4X: 34" / 5X: 36" **Front piece width** (= back width / 2, since there are two fronts): - XS: 10" / S: 11" / M: 12" / L: 13" / XL: 14" / 2X: 15" / 3X: 16" / 4X: 17" / 5X: 18" **Body length** (hem to shoulder): - Let's do mid-thigh = 28" for a standard length cover-up - All sizes: 28" (can adjust with note) **Sleeve width** (circumference / 2, since it's flat): - Wide, boxy sleeve: approximately 16-20" wide - XS/S: 16" / M/L: 17" / XL/2X: 18" / 3X/4X: 19" / 5X: 20" - (This is the half-circumference; full sleeve circumference when seamed: 32-40") **Sleeve length** (3/4 length = approximately 13"): - All sizes: 13" (elbow to wrist is typically 12-13") - Actually 3/4 length from shoulder would be about 13-15" - Let's say 14" for all sizes **Stitch counts** (using gauge: 3 repeats = 4 inches, each repeat = 4 sts): - Stitches per inch = 12/4 = 3 sts per inch - BUT we need multiples of 4 for the pattern Back stitch counts: - XS (20"): 20 Ć 3 = 60 sts ā 60/4 = 15 repeats ā (divisible by 4) - S (22"): 22 Ć 3 = 66 sts ā 66/4 = 16.5 ā round to 64 (16 repeats) = 21.3" or 68 (17 repeats) = 22.7" Hmm, I need to think about this differently. Let me establish: - Gauge: 3 pattern repeats = 4 inches - Repeats per inch = 3/4 = 0.75 repeats per inch - Each repeat = 4 chains foundation = works out to 1.33" per repeat So for back widths: - XS (20"): 20 / 1.33 = 15 repeats ā 15 Ć 4 = 60 sts + 3 for selvedge = 63-ch foundation? Actually, let me think about the foundation chain formula more carefully. **Granny Stripe Foundation Chain:** For n repeats: ch (4n + 3) - The pattern starts with 3 dc in 4th ch from hook (ch 1-3 = turning ch, 4th ch = first cluster start) - Then *skip 3, ch 1, 3 dc* across, end with ch 1, dc in last ch - So: ch 3 (turning) + 3 (first cluster) + (4 Ć remaining repeats) + 1 (edge dc ch) = 4n + 3 + 1? Let me re-examine: Foundation ch for n repeats = 4n + 3 Example: 3 repeats = 4(3) + 3 = 15 ch - Ch 15 - 3dc in 4th ch (chs 1-3 = turning ch) ā cluster 1 - skip 3, ch 1, 3 dc in next ā cluster 2 (uses chs 4-7, dc in ch 8... wait) Let me redo this: Ch 15: - Positions: ch1, ch2, ch3 (turning ch skip), ch4 (3dc here = cluster 1), ch5, ch6, ch7 (skip these), ch8 (ch-1 space? No...) Actually, the standard granny stripe is: - Ch multiple of 4 + 2 - Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as first dc of cluster), dc in same ch, *ch 1, skip 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch* repeat across to last ch, ch 1, dc in last ch Wait, I need to look at this more carefully. Let me define the pattern clearly: **GRANNY STRIPE PATTERN:** Foundation chain: multiple of 4 + 3 Setup Row: Ch (4n + 3). - 3 dc in 4th ch from hook (ch 1, 2, 3 = turning ch), *ch 1, skip 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; repeat from * across to last 4 ch, ch 1, skip 3, dc in last ch. For n repeats, chain = 4n + 3 + (need edge dc) Let me try with n=3 (3 full cluster groups, plus edge stitches): Actually, let me just define it simply: Foundation: ch (4n + 3) where n = number of granny cluster repeats The fabric width = n repeats Ć 1.33" per repeat + edges For 15 repeats: ch = 4(15) + 3 = 63 Width = 15 Ć 1.33" ā 20" ā for XS back For 16 repeats: ch = 4(16) + 3 = 67 Width = 16 Ć 1.33" ā 21.3" For 18 repeats: ch = 4(18) + 3 = 75 Width = 18 Ć 1.33" ā 24" Hmm, let me try to get cleaner multiples. Let me adjust my gauge slightly. **Revised approach**: Let me set the gauge at: - 2 pattern repeats = 3 inches (so 1 repeat = 1.5 inches) - This makes math cleaner - 3 repeats = 4.5 inches... that's less clean OR: Let me set gauge at: - 4 repeats = 5 inches (1 repeat = 1.25 inches) - Back XS (20"): 20/1.25 = 16 repeats ā ch = 4(16)+3 = 67 - Back S (22"): 22/1.25 = 17.6 ā 18 repeats = 22.5" ā ch = 75 - Back M (24"): 24/1.25 = 19.2 ā 20 repeats = 25" ā ch = 83 - Hmm, these don't come out to exact target widths Let me try a different approach. I'll just work with stitches more simply. **SIMPLEST APPROACH**: Let me use gauge: 14 dc = 4 inches = 3.5 dc per inch, 8 rows = 4 inches = 2 rows per inch For the granny stripe, I'll count stitches as dc equivalents (treat each ch as 1 st, each dc as 1 st). So 14 "stitches" = 4 inches. Pattern repeat = 4 sts (3 dc + 1 ch) Stitches per inch = 3.5 Back widths and stitch counts: - XS (20"): 20 Ć 3.5 = 70 sts ā 70/4 = 17.5 ā round to 17 repeats = 68 sts = 19.4" ā 19.5", or 18 repeats = 72 sts = 20.6" These won't come out exactly. This is normal for crochet patterns. I'll provide approximate widths. Let me think about this differently. I should: 1. Target specific stitch counts that are multiples of 4 (or 4+2 for the edge stitch) 2. Then calculate what finished width that gives **Final approach: Pick clean stitch counts, state finished measurements** With gauge 14 sc = 4 inches ā 3.5 sts/inch Pattern stitch count = number of dc clusters Ć 4 + edge stitches For the back (half the total width): Let me define back widths by targeting the finished measurement: | Size | Target Back Width | Repeats | Chain | Actual Width | |------|------------------|---------|-------|--------------| | XS | 20" | 15 | 63 | ~20" | | S | 22" | 16 | 67 | ~21.5" | | M | 24" | 18 | 75 | ~24" | | L | 26" | 19 | 79 | ~25.5" | | XL | 28" | 21 | 87 | ~28" | | 2X | 30" | 22 | 91 | ~29.5" | | 3X | 32" | 24 | 99 | ~32" | | 4X | 34" | 25 | 103 | ~33.5" | | 5X | 36" | 27 | 111 | ~36" | Wait, with 14 sts = 4 inches, each stitch = 4/14 = 0.286 inches Each repeat (4 sts) = 4 Ć 0.286 = 1.14 inches 15 repeats = 15 Ć 1.14 = 17.1" ā that's not 20". My gauge math is off. I think the issue is I'm conflating two different stitch counts. Let me reset completely. **CLEAN RESET:** For worsted weight on size J-10 (6mm) hook, granny stripe stitch: I'll establish gauge empirically as: - 4 pattern repeats = 6 inches wide (each repeat = 1.5 inches) - 6 rows = 4 inches tall (rows per inch = 1.5) This is a realistic worsted gauge on J hook for granny stripe. Back widths by repeat count: | Size | Target Width | Repeats | Actual Width | Foundation Ch | |------|-------------|---------|--------------|---------------| | XS | 20" | 14 | 21" | 4(14)+3 = 59 | | S | 22" | 15 | 22.5" | 63 | | M | 24" | 16 | 24" | 67 | | L | 26" | 17 | 25.5" | 71 | | XL | 28" | 19 | 28.5" | 79 | | 2X | 30" | 20 | 30" | 83 | | 3X | 32" | 22 | 33" | 91 | | 4X | 34" | 23 | 34.5" | 95 | | 5X | 36" | 24 | 36" | 99 | Hmm, some of these are slightly off. But wait - XS = 14 repeats at 1.5"/repeat = 21". That gives finished bust of 42" for XS (2 fronts + back). That's okay - XS to 5X needs a range. Let me recalculate finished bust (back + 2 fronts): Actually, the fronts each = back/2 in width, so: Total bust = back width Ć 2 (since each front = back/2, and back = back) Wait: Back + Front Left + Front Right = back + (back/2) + (back/2) = back Ć 2 So finished bust = back width Ć 2. That's the total circumference. | Size | Back Width | Finished Bust | |------|-----------|---------------| | XS | 21" | 42" | | S | 22.5" | 45" | | M | 24" | 48" | | L | 25.5" | 51" | | XL | 28.5" | 57" | | 2X | 30" | 60" | | 3X | 33" | 66" | | 4X | 34.5" | 69" | | 5X | 36" | 72" | The gaps between XSāS and LāXL are uneven. Let me smooth these out. Let me try to get more even sizing. I want approximately 3" increments between sizes. Target finished busts: XS: 42" / S: 45" / M: 48" / L: 51" / XL: 54" / 2X: 57" / 3X: 60" / 4X: 63" / 5X: 66" (or XS: 40" / S: 44" / M: 48" / L: 52" / XL: 56" / 2X: 60" / 3X: 64" / 4X: 68" / 5X: 72") Let me go with 4" increments which is standard for apparel sizing and works better for granny stripe math: XS: 40" / S: 44" / M: 48" / L: 52" / XL: 56" / 2X: 60" / 3X: 64" / 4X: 68" / 5X: 72" Back widths (= finished bust / 2): XS: 20" / S: 22" / M: 24" / L: 26" / XL: 28" / 2X: 30" / 3X: 32" / 4X: 34" / 5X: 36" With gauge: 1 repeat = 1.5 inches Repeat counts for back: - XS (20"): 20/1.5 = 13.3 ā 14 repeats = 21" (finished bust 42" -- slightly bigger, OK) - S (22"): 22/1.5 = 14.7 ā 15 repeats = 22.5" (finished bust 45") - M (24"): 24/1.5 = 16 repeats = 24" ā (finished bust 48") - L (26"): 26/1.5 = 17.3 ā 17 repeats = 25.5" or 18 = 27" - XL (28"): 28/1.5 = 18.7 ā 19 repeats = 28.5" (finished bust 57") - 2X (30"): 30/1.5 = 20 repeats = 30" ā (finished bust 60") - 3X (32"): 32/1.5 = 21.3 ā 21 repeats = 31.5" or 22 = 33" - 4X (34"): 34/1.5 = 22.7 ā 23 repeats = 34.5" (finished bust 69") - 5X (36"): 36/1.5 = 24 repeats = 36" ā (finished bust 72") The pattern is for a COVER-UP, so a looser fit is totally fine. The issue is the finished bust measurements are jumping around. Let me just commit to specific repeat counts and report the actual finished measurements: | Size | Back Repeats | Back Width | Finished Bust | Foundation Ch | |------|-------------|-----------|---------------|---------------| | XS | 13 | 19.5" | 39" | 55 | | S | 15 | 22.5" | 45" | 63 | | M | 16 | 24" | 48" | 67 | | L | 18 | 27" | 54" | 75 | | XL | 19 | 28.5" | 57" | 79 | | 2X | 21 | 31.5" | 63" | 87 | | 3X | 22 | 33" | 66" | 91 | | 4X | 24 | 36" | 72" | 99 | | 5X | 25 | 37.5" | 75" | 103 | These increments are a bit uneven (some 1.5" increments, some 3"). Let me try to make them more consistent: Let me use every 2 repeats = 3" increment between sizes: | Size | Back Repeats | Back Width | Finished Bust | Foundation Ch | |------|-------------|-----------|---------------|---------------| | XS | 13 | 19.5" | 39" | 55 | | S | 14 | 21" | 42" | 59 | | M | 16 | 24" | 48" | 67 | | L | 17 | 25.5" | 51" | 71 | | XL | 19 | 28.5" | 57" | 79 | | 2X | 20 | 30" | 60" | 83 | | 3X | 22 | 33" | 66" | 91 | | 4X | 23 | 34.5" | 69" | 95 | | 5X | 25 | 37.5" | 75" | 103 | Increments: 1.5, 3, 1.5, 3, 1.5, 3, 1.5, 3 ā inconsistent You know what, I'm overcomplicating this. Crochet patterns commonly have ~3" increments. Let me just use every 2 repeats between sizes (3" increment each step) and state the actual measurements: | Size | Back Repeats | Back Width | Finished Bust | |------|-------------|-----------|---------------| | XS | 13 | 19.5" | 39" | | S | 15 | 22.5" | 45" | | M | 17 | 25.5" | 51" | | L | 19 | 28.5" | 57" | | XL | 21 | 31.5" | 63" | | 2X | 23 | 34.5" | 69" | | 3X | 25 | 37.5" | 75" | | 4X | 27 | 40.5" | 81" | | 5X | 29 | 43.5" | 87" | Now all sizes increment by 2 repeats = 3" per half width = 6" per full bust. That's consistent! 6" increments in bust is standard for plus sizing. Foundation chains (= 4n + 3 where n = repeats... wait, let me re-examine): Actually, in my granny stripe pattern: - Each "repeat" in the body of the fabric = *3 dc, ch 1* (4 sts used from foundation) - Starting: ch 3 turn + 3 dc in 4th ch from hook = uses ch 1-3 (turn) + 1 actual ch - Wait I need to be precise. **Let me define the exact pattern stitch:** GRANNY STRIPE PATTERN STITCH: Foundation Chain (FC): Multiple of 4 + 3 Row 1 (RS): Starting in 4th ch from hook, work 3 dc (first cluster), *ch 1, skip 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; repeat from * across until 4 ch remain, ch 1, skip 3 ch, dc in last ch. Turn. Note: The ch 1-3 at beginning = turning chain that counts as dc. First cluster is 3 dc in 4th ch from hook. Then each repeat uses 4 chains. Final dc in last ch. So structure: [ch3-turn = dc] + [3dc in ch4] + nĆ[ch1, skip3, 3dc in next] + [ch1, skip3, dc in last] Hmm, that doesn't work cleanly. Let me think... For a simpler counting: Foundation ch = 4n + 3, where n = number of 3-dc cluster groups (not counting the final single dc) Example n=3: Ch = 4(3) + 3 = 15 - Ch 15 - 3dc in 4th ch from hook [uses chains: turn-ch 1,2,3; first dc in ch 4] ā wait, normally ch 3 = turning ch counting as dc, so the "cluster" is actually in the 4th ch from hook - skip ch 5, 6, 7; ch 1; 3dc in ch 8 - skip ch 9, 10, 11; ch 1; 3dc in ch 12 - skip ch 13, 14; ch 1; dc in ch 15 (last ch) That's only 3 clusters (including the first in ch 4), then a final dc. Total = 3 clusters of 3dc + 1 final dc = 10 dc. Width = 3 clusters Ć 1.5" = 4.5" + seam edge... Actually, I think the standard granny stripe foundation is: Foundation: ch (4n + 1) + ch 2 for turning OR let me just look at this from the row perspective: Row 2 (the pattern row, after row 1 establishes): Ch 3, turn. 3 dc in first ch-1 space, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space; repeat from * across, ch 1, dc in top of turning ch. If n = number of ch-1 spaces: - Row 2 has: [ch3 = dc] + [3dc + ch1] Ć n + [dc in t-ch] - n clusters of (3dc + ch1) + 2 edge stitches (turning ch dc + final dc) For row 1 setup: - We need to create n ch-1 spaces - Foundation ch = 3 (turning ch) + 1 (first dc of cluster 1) + 3(skip) + 1(ch) for each cluster + 1 (final dc) - = 3 + 4n - but that doesn't look right either OK I think the cleanest way to set up this pattern is: Foundation: ch (4n + 4) where n = number of clusters in body of work (not counting edge stitches) Actually, you know what? Let me just define it empirically and consistently in the pattern. I'll define the pattern clearly, state what the foundation chain is for each size based on testing, and move on. The math for the FINISHED FABRIC is what matters. Let me just say: **Foundation chain formula: ch (4 Ć number of repeats + 3)** **n repeats of (ch 1, 3 dc) + 2 edge sts = (4n + 3 ch) foundation** Checking: For n=13 (XS back): ch = 4(13) + 3 = 55. The fabric width with 13 full cluster groups = 13 Ć 1.5" = 19.5" ā Row 1: 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *(ch 1, skip 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch); rep from * 11 more times [13 clusters total], ch 1, skip 3 ch, dc in last ch. Wait: After the first cluster (3 dc in 4th ch from hook), we do 12 more repeats = 13 clusters total + edge dc at end. For ch 55: - Chs 1-3 = turning ch - Ch 4 = first cluster start - Then 12 repeats of (skip 3, ch 1, 3 dc in next) = 12 Ć 4 = 48 chs used - So far: 3 + 1 + 48 = 52 chs used - Remaining: chs 53, 54, 55 - ch 1 (skip 53, 54, 55)? That's only 3 chs left after 52... Hmm, let me recount. Ch 55: - Chs 1, 2, 3 = turning ch (skip, acts as first dc) - Ch 4 = work 3 dc here (cluster 1) - Skip chs 5, 6, 7; ch 1 space; work 3 dc in ch 8 (cluster 2) ā but where does the "ch 1" come from? The ch 1 comes from the WORK not the foundation OH WAIT. In granny stripe, the ch 1 between clusters is WORKED (created new), not part of the foundation chain. So: Foundation ch = 3 (turning) + (4 Ć n clusters - 3 to skip between clusters) + 1 (edge dc) Actually: For each cluster after the first, you SKIP 3 foundation chains. For the first cluster, you work in the 4th ch. Foundation ch structure: - Chs 1-3: Turning ch (counts as first dc of... no, the CLUSTER starts at ch 4) Let me try again with n=2 clusters as a simple example: Foundation ch = ? Row 1: - Ch 3 (turning ch, counts as dc) - 3 dc in 4th ch from hook ā cluster 1 in position 4 - SKIP 3 ch (positions 5, 6, 7) - CH 1 (worked stitch) - 3 dc in position 8 ā cluster 2 - SKIP 3 ch (positions 9, 10, 11) - CH 1 (worked stitch) - DC in position 12 ā edge dc Foundation chain needed: 12 chains For n=2 clusters: 4(2) + 4 = 12? Let me check: 3 (turn) + 1 (ch4, first dc) + 3 (skip) + 1 (ch8, cluster 2) + 3 (skip) + 1 (ch12, edge dc) = 12 ā Formula: FC = 3 + nĆ1 + (n-1)Ć3 + 3 + 1 = 3 + n + 3n - 3 + 3 + 1 = 4n + 4 For n=2: 4(2)+4 = 12 ā For n=3: 4(3)+4 = 16 Let me verify n=3: - Ch 16 - 3dc in ch4 (cluster 1) - Skip 5,6,7; ch 1; 3dc in ch 8 (cluster 2) - Skip 9,10,11; ch 1; 3dc in ch 12 (cluster 3) - Skip 13,14,15; ch 1; dc in ch 16 (edge dc) That's 3 clusters + 1 edge dc. Foundation ch = 4(3)+4 = 16 ā But wait - the width is: 3 clusters Ć 1.5" = 4.5", but we also have the edge dc and the turning ch at the other end. Row 2 (continuing the pattern): - Ch 3, turn (edge) - 3 dc in first ch-1 sp (cluster 1, in ch-1 between cluster 1 and 2 of previous row) - Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp (cluster 2) - Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp (cluster 3) - Ch 1, dc in top of t-ch (edge dc) So n clusters, plus 2 edge "stitches" (the turning ch counting as dc, and the final dc). The total number of ch-1 spaces in row 1 = n (3 ch-1 spaces between/after clusters + the "implicit" space between turning ch and first cluster). Wait, in row 1: - Between turning-ch-dc and cluster 1: there's no explicit ch-1, just the space made by the first 3 dc in ch4 (ch 1 of turning = dc, then ch4 is skipped by 2 positions... actually the turning ch in position 1-3 sits next to ch4 where first cluster is) Hmm. The issue is whether row 2 works into the space "before" cluster 1 of row 1 (between the turning ch-dc and the cluster). This is getting complicated. Let me just define it more simply in the pattern and use a slightly different stitch construction: **REVISED SIMPLER APPROACH:** I'll use a granny stripe where: - Foundation chain: ch multiple of 4 + 1 (add 2 for turning chain) - Pattern is counted in terms of "ch-1 spaces" (which is what Row 2+ works into) - Each ch-1 space with its 3 dc = 1 pattern repeat Actually, the cleanest version I know works like this: Foundation: (4n + 1) chains total (including turning ch) Example n=13 for XS back: (4Ć13 + 1) = 53 chains Row 1: Ch 3 (= first dc, turning ch), 3 dc in 4th ch from hook... No, ch 3 then 3dc in 4th ch = 4 chs used minimum. OKAY. I'm going to step back and use a MUCH simpler approach to the stitch pattern for the pattern instructions. I'll define it clearly in the Abbreviations/Notes section and then just give stitch counts (not foundation chain counts) in the pattern body, since that's what most commercial patterns do. **FINAL DECISION on pattern format:** I'll present the granny stripe as a stitch pattern with a clearly defined stitch multiple, and give STITCH COUNTS (how many "pattern repeats" wide each piece is) along with the corresponding foundation chain number. I'll calculate the foundation chain as: FC = 4n + 5 (where n = number of cluster repeats, including turning-ch-dc + ending dc as "edge stitches") Actually, I just found the clearest way to set this up: **GRANNY STRIPE - FINAL DEFINITION:** Stitch Multiple: 4 + 3 Foundation chain: ch (4n + 3) where n = number of 3-dc cluster groups How it works: - Ch (4n+3) - ROW 1: 3 dc in 4th ch from hook [= n=1 cluster], *ch 1, skip 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch [= each additional cluster]; repeat from * for (n-2) more times, ch 1, skip 3 ch, dc in last ch [edge stitch]. Turn. - This creates (n-1) ch-1 spaces between clusters, and the pattern on Row 2 will work into those spaces PLUS "create" the space before the first cluster. Wait, this means Row 2 can only work into (n-1) ch-1 spaces, giving (n-1) clusters, not n. That's a reduction! I think the correct setup is that Row 1 has (n) clusters but the first cluster is adjacent to the turning chain (no ch-1 before it), and row 2+ has a ch-1 before AND after each cluster group. Let me look at this from the ROW 2 perspective: Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, edge), turn. *3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * to last ch-1 sp, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in top of t-ch. Turn. This means Row 2 has: edge dc + nĆ(3dc) + nĆ(ch1) + edge dc = (n+2) edge stitches/sc-equivalents + 3n dc + n ch1 For Row 1 to set up n ch-1 spaces: - We need n sets of (skip 3, ch 1) in the foundation - Plus the first cluster at the very beginning Foundation ch = 3 (turning ch) + 4n (for n clusters and n skips of 3... wait n clusters means nĆ1 ch for starting ch + (n-1)Ć3 ch for skips between + nĆ(ch 1 space? No... OK I think the confusion is that in Row 1, the ch 1's I'm using between clusters are WORKED stitches (made fresh), while the foundation chain just has the dc anchor points. Let me trace through: For n=13 (XS): Row 1: 3 dc in 4th ch, *ch 1 [worked stitch], skip 3 ch of foundation, 3 dc in next ch of foundation; repeat 12 times*, then ch 1 [worked], skip 3 ch of foundation, dc in last ch of foundation. Foundation chains needed: - Turning ch: 3 (positions 1-3) - 1st cluster anchor: ch 4 (1 position) - Then for each of 12 more clusters: skip 3 + anchor = 4 positions each = 12 Ć 4 = 48 positions (chs 5-52) - Final dc: ch 53 (after skip 3 = chs... wait: After cluster 13 (in some position), we do: ch 1 [worked], skip 3 foundation chains, dc in last foundation chain. So total foundation chains = 3 + 1 + (12 Ć 4) + 3 + 1 = 3 + 1 + 48 + 3 + 1 = 56? Let me trace: - Chs 1-3: turning ch - Ch 4: cluster 1 (3 dc) - Chs 5, 6, 7: skip - Ch 1 [WORKED]: ch-1 space 1 - Ch 8: cluster 2 (3 dc) ā wait, after ch 1 WORKED, we skip 3 FOUNDATION chs from position 5 Hmm, the "skip 3" skips foundation chains after the anchor. So: - After cluster 1 (anchored in ch 4): skip chs 5, 6, 7 of foundation, then CH 1 [worked], then 3 dc in ch 8 of foundation - After cluster 2 (anchored in ch 8): skip chs 9, 10, 11, then CH 1 [worked], then 3 dc in ch 12 - Continue... - After cluster 12 (anchored in ch 4 + 11Ć4 = ch 48): skip chs 49, 50, 51, CH 1 [worked], 3 dc in ch 52 (cluster 13) - After cluster 13 (anchored in ch 52): skip chs 53, 54, 55, CH 1 [worked], dc in ch 56 So foundation chain = 56 for n=13 clusters. Formula: FC = 3 (turning) + 1 (first anchor) + (n-1) Ć 4 (skip 3 + next anchor) + 3 (last skip) + 1 (edge dc) = 3 + 1 + 4n - 4 + 3 + 1 = 4n + 4 For n=13: 4(13) + 4 = 56 ā And the ch-1 spaces in row 1 = n (one after each cluster group, including after cluster 13 before the edge dc). So Row 2 works into n ch-1 spaces: - 3 dc in each ch-1 space, ch 1 between - Edge: ch 3 (= dc) at start, dc in turning ch at end Row 2: ch 3, turn, *3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat n times*, dc in top of t-ch. Wait: that gives ch3 + [3dc+ch1]Ćn + dc = edge_dc + n_clusters + edge_dc If n=13: 1 + 13Ć3 + 13Ć1 + 1 = 1 + 39 + 13 + 1 = 54 dc/ch in the row? And the fabric width: - 13 clusters Ć 1.5" = 19.5" for the cluster portion - Plus 2 edge stitches which add maybe 0.5" total - Total ā 20" ā Great! So FC = 4n + 4 for n clusters. Now let me recalculate all sizes: | Size | Clusters(n) | FC | Fabric Width | |------|------------|-------|---------------| | XS | 13 | 56 | 19.5" + edges ā 20" | | S | 15 | 64 | 22.5" + edges ā 23" | | M | 17 | 72 | 25.5" + edges ā 26" | | L | 19 | 80 | 28.5" + edges ā 29" | | XL | 21 | 88 | 31.5" + edges ā 32" | | 2X | 23 | 96 | 34.5" + edges ā 35" | | 3X | 25 | 104 | 37.5" + edges ā 38" | | 4X | 27 | 112 | 40.5" + edges ā 41" | | 5X | 29 | 120 | 43.5" + edges ā 44" | So finished busts (back Ć 2): | Size | Back Width | Finished Bust | |------|-----------|---------------| | XS | ~20" | ~40" | | S | ~23" | ~46" | | M | ~26" | ~52" | | L | ~29" | ~58" | | XL | ~32" | ~64" | | 2X | ~35" | ~70" | | 3X | ~38" | ~76" | | 4X | ~41" | ~82" | | 5X | ~44" | ~88" | These seem like a lot of ease for the larger sizes (5X body bust ~54", +34" ease = 88"?). But this is a kimono/cover-up, so generous ease is intentional. I'll note that it's a very oversized silhouette. Actually, let me reconsider. A 5X garment should be wearable, and 88" finished bust (over 7 feet of fabric when laid flat?) might be too much even for a cover-up. Let me reduce the increments to every 1 repeat between some sizes. OR: I could note that some sizes share the same back panel width (group sizing). Let me try: Approach: 2 repeats per size step for XS-XL, then 1 repeat per step for 2X-5X (since larger sizes need smaller ease increments... actually no, they need the same). Actually you know what, the ease is fine for a kimono. A 5X person (54-56" bust) wearing a 88" bust kimono has ~32-34" of ease, which is an open-front kimono that wraps very generously. That's absolutely appropriate for this garment type. However, the jumps between sizes (every 6" in finished bust) may be too large for XS-L. Let me try 1-repeat increments: | Size | Clusters(n) | Back Width | Finished Bust | FC | |------|------------|-----------|---------------|-----| | XS | 13 | ~20" | ~40" | 56 | | S | 14 | ~21.5" | ~43" | 60 | | M | 15 | ~23" | ~46" | 64 | | L | 16 | ~24.5" | ~49" | 68 | | XL | 17 | ~26" | ~52" | 72 | | 2X | 19 | ~29" | ~58" | 80 | | 3X | 21 | ~32" | ~64" | 88 | | 4X | 23 | ~35" | ~70" | 96 | | 5X | 25 | ~38" | ~76" | 104 | (Used 2-repeat increments for plus sizes to space things out, 1-repeat for standard sizes) Hmm but I want consistency. You know what, let me go back to 2-repeat increments for all sizes. The finished bust measurements will be: XS: 40", S: 46", M: 52", L: 58", XL: 64", 2X: 70", 3X: 76", 4X: 82", 5X: 88" The ease for each size (using average body bust): - XS (31" bust): 40-31 = 9" ease - S (35" bust): 46-35 = 11" ease - M (38" bust): 52-38 = 14" ease - L (42" bust): 58-42 = 16" ease - XL (46" bust): 64-46 = 18" ease - 2X (50" bust): 70-50 = 20" ease - 3X (54" bust): 76-54 = 22" ease - 4X (58" bust): 82-58 = 24" ease - 5X (62" bust): 88-62 = 26" ease This is increasing ease across sizes, which is typical for kimonos (the larger sizes get proportionally more ease because the fabric is oversized). This is TOTALLY FINE for a kimono/cover-up where the open front means you don't need to close it. BUT wait - these front panels also need to be wider to provide coverage. Each front panel = back width / 2. So for XS, each front is ~10" wide. For 5X, each front is ~22" wide. That gives reasonable front coverage. **FRONT PANELS (each):** Each front = approximately half the back width = n/2 clusters wide (round to nearest whole) But we need the cluster count to be a whole number: | Size | Back n | Front n | Front Width | FC | |------|--------|---------|-------------|-------| | XS | 13 | 6 or 7 | 9" or 10.5" | 28/32 | | S | 15 | 7 or 8 | 10.5" or 12"| 32/36 | | M | 17 | 8 or 9 | 12" or 13.5"| 36/40 | | L | 19 | 9 or 10 | 13.5" or 15"| 40/44 | | XL | 21 | 10 or 11| 15" or 16.5"| 44/48 | | 2X | 23 | 11 or 12| 16.5" or 18"| 48/52 | | 3X | 25 | 12 or 13| 18" or 19.5"| 52/56 | | 4X | 27 | 13 or 14| 19.5" or 21"| 56/60 | | 5X | 29 | 14 or 15| 21" or 22.5"| 60/64 | Since this is a cover-up that's worn open OR with ties, the fronts don't need to close all the way, so I can make fronts = (back/2) rounded down, which gives a slight gap at center front. That's actually more attractive for a kimono. Let me use: front n = (back n - 1) / 2 rounded to nearest whole... actually let me just use: Front n = back n // 2 (integer division, round down) | Size | Back n | Front n | Front Width | |------|--------|---------|-------------| | XS | 13 | 6 | ~9.5" | | S | 15 | 7 | ~11" | | M | 17 | 8 | ~12.5" | | L | 19 | 9 | ~14" | | XL | 21 | 10 | ~15.5" | | 2X | 23 | 11 | ~17" | | 3X | 25 | 12 | ~18.5" | | 4X | 27 | 13 | ~20" | | 5X | 29 | 14 | ~21.5" | Front FC = 4(front_n) + 4 | Size | Front n | Front FC | |------|---------|---------| | XS | 6 | 28 | | S | 7 | 32 | | M | 8 | 36 | | L | 9 | 40 | | XL | 10 | 44 | | 2X | 11 | 48 | | 3X | 12 | 52 | | 4X | 13 | 56 | | 5X | 14 | 60 | **SLEEVES:** 3/4 length sleeves, wide and rectangular. Sleeve width (flat, half circumference): approximately 10-13" depending on size Sleeve length: 14" for all sizes (3/4 sleeve) Sleeve widths: | Size | Sleeve n | Sleeve Width (flat) | Full Sleeve Circ | |------|---------|---------------------|------------------| | XS | 7 | ~11" | ~22" | | S | 7 | ~11" | ~22" | | M | 8 | ~12.5" | ~25" | | L | 8 | ~12.5" | ~25" | | XL | 9 | ~14" | ~28" | | 2X | 9 | ~14" | ~28" | | 3X | 10 | ~15.5" | ~31" | | 4X | 10 | ~15.5" | ~31" | | 5X | 11 | ~17" | ~34" | Sleeve FC: | Size | Sleeve n | Sleeve FC | |------|---------|-----------| | XS/S | 7 | 32 | | M/L | 8 | 36 | | XL/2X| 9 | 40 | | 3X/4X| 10 | 44 | | 5X | 11 | 48 | **ROW COUNTS:** Rows per inch = 1.5 rows/inch (from gauge: 6 rows = 4 inches) Actually wait - I set gauge as "6 rows = 4 inches" which means: - 6/4 = 1.5 rows per inch - OR 4/6 = 0.667 inches per row Hmm, 6 rows = 4 inches is actually quite open for worsted weight. For granny stripe in worsted on a J hook, 8 rows = 4" might be more accurate (2 rows/inch). Let me revise: Gauge: 4 pattern repeats = 6 inches (width), 4 rows = 2 inches (height) ā So 1 repeat = 1.5 inches wide (width gauge unchanged) ā 2 rows = 1 inch (height) ā Rows per inch = 2 This means: - Body length (28"): 28 Ć 2 = 56 rows - Sleeve length (14"): 14 Ć 2 = 28 rows These are the pattern row counts (not counting foundation row). **STRIPE SEQUENCE (Woodstock colors):** Color A: "Peace Cream" (off-white/natural) Color B: "Harvest Gold" (mustard yellow) Color C: "Sunset Orange" (burnt orange) Color D: "Forest Moss" (olive green) Color E: "Dusty Mauve" (muted purple/mauve) Color F: "Earth Brown" (warm brown) Stripe sequence (2 rows each): Rows 1-2: Color A (Peace Cream) Rows 3-4: Color B (Harvest Gold) Rows 5-6: Color C (Sunset Orange) Rows 7-8: Color A (Peace Cream) Rows 9-10: Color D (Forest Moss) Rows 11-12: Color B (Harvest Gold) Rows 13-14: Color E (Dusty Mauve) Rows 15-16: Color A (Peace Cream) Rows 17-18: Color F (Earth Brown) Rows 19-20: Color C (Sunset Orange) Repeat this 20-row sequence throughout. For 56 rows body: 2 full repeats (40 rows) + 16 rows of sequence = Rows 1-16 of repeat This works! **YARN QUANTITIES:** This is tricky to calculate exactly, but I'll estimate: Worsted weight typically ~200 yards per 100g skein. Surface area of pieces: - Back: 20-44" wide Ć 28" tall - 2 Fronts: 2 Ć (9.5-21.5" Ć 28") - 2 Sleeves: 2 Ć (11-17" Ć 14") For XS: - Back: 20" Ć 28" = 560 sq inches = 3.89 sq ft - 2 Fronts: 2 Ć 9.5" Ć 28" = 532 sq inches - 2 Sleeves: 2 Ć 11" Ć 14" = 308 sq inches - Total: 1400 sq inches Rough yarn estimate for worsted granny stripe: about 1 yard per 10-12 sq inches of fabric XS: 1400/11 ā 127 yards... that seems too low. Let me recalculate. For a dc stitch in worsted, approximately 1 yard per 3-4 stitches. With 3 sts/inch horizontally and 2 rows/inch vertically: - Stitch density: 3 Ć 2 = 6 sts per sq inch - At 3.5 sts/yard: ā 1.7 sq inches per yard ā 0.59 yards per sq inch XS total sq inches ā 1400 XS yards ā 1400 Ć 0.59 ā 826 yards per color? No, total across all colors. Total yards needed ā 826 yards, split across 6 colors. With 6 colors, approximately equal: 826/6 ā 137 yards each. But that seems low. Let me use a different approach. For a typical women's cardigan in worsted: - S/M: 1000-1200 yards total - L/XL: 1200-1500 yards - 2X/3X: 1500-1800 yards - 4X/5X: 1800-2200 yards For a cover-up (slightly lighter construction, granny stripe has holes): - XS: ~800 yards total - S: ~900 yards - M: ~1000 yards - L: ~1100 yards - XL: ~1200 yards - 2X: ~1400 yards - 3X: ~1600 yards - 4X: ~1800 yards - 5X: ~2000 yards Per color (6 colors, roughly equal though A/Peace Cream appears most): Color A (appears in 6 out of 20 rows = 30%): A gets ~30% of total Colors B-F (each appears in 2-4 of 20 rows = 10-20%): B gets ~20%, C ~20%, D ~10%, E ~10%, F ~10% Wait, let me recount the stripe sequence: A: rows 1-2, 7-8, 15-16 = 6 rows out of 20 = 30% B: rows 3-4, 11-12 = 4 rows out of 20 = 20% C: rows 5-6, 19-20 = 4 rows out of 20 = 20% D: rows 9-10 = 2 rows out of 20 = 10% E: rows 13-14 = 2 rows out of 20 = 10% F: rows 17-18 = 2 rows out of 20 = 10% Total: 6+4+4+2+2+2 = 20 ā
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