purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
- Three-tiered skirt, each tier identical in stitch pattern structure but ending at different lengths (short, medium, long)
- Each tier has 5 sections from top to bottom:
  1. White mohair lacy large eyelets (big needle = loose, airy fabric)
  2. Alpaca+merino border
  3. Baby pink large eyelets (~5 rows small eyelets) + 1 row of very large eyelets (~15cm drop loops/elongated stitches)
  4. Darker pink large eyelets continuing for a few rows
  5. Alpaca+merino border (same as section 2)
- Waistband: Tunisian wheat stitch with elastic band
- The skirt is worked in the round
- All three tiers are stacked/layered — this is a 3-tiered skirt, so each tier hangs at a different length beneath the waistband. This likely means 3 separate panels attached to the waistband, or one panel with two additional layers attached at intervals.

**Interpreting the construction**: Looking at the image description again — "3 tiered skirt, they are at 3 different lengths (short, medium and long)" — this is a layered/tiered skirt where three separate ruffled/lacy tiers cascade. Most likely the tiers are attached to a waistband, with the shortest on top, medium middle, and longest at the bottom, OR they are all attached to the waistband at different points creating a layered waterfall effect. 

Given that each tier has the same 5-section structure, the most logical construction is:
- A Tunisian crochet waistband (since Tunisian wheat stitch is a crochet technique, not knitting)
- Three separate knitted tiers, each worked flat or in the round, attached to the waistband at different heights OR all attached at the waist but cut to different lengths

Wait — "Tunisian wheat stitch" — this is a Tunisian CROCHET stitch. The user mentions knitting for the tiers but Tunisian crochet for the waistband. This is a mixed-media project. I need to address both.

Actually, re-reading the prompt: the system says "knitting pattern" and yarn weight is worsted. But Tunisian stitch is crochet. I'll include both since the user specifically requested it. I'll note this is a mixed-media project.

**Re-examining the tiers**: Each tier has the same 5 sections. The "very very large eyelets which go down about 15cm long (1 row)" — this sounds like elongated stitches or drop stitches / yarn-over loops that create very long loops (like a drop stitch row or very long cast-off loops). This is achievable with a drop stitch row (wrap yarn multiple times around needle for each stitch, then on next row drop the extra wraps).

The "large eyelets all the way around" with big needles in white mohair — this is a simple large eyelet lace pattern, perhaps (yo, k2tog) all the way around, worked on much larger needles than gauge.

**Needle sizes**: 
- Main yarn (worsted weight): approximately 5mm–6mm needles
- White mohair section: mohair is typically laceweight/fingering, but user says "really big needle size" — so perhaps 8mm–10mm to create that airy look
- The mohair section being "lacy" suggests using a very large needle (maybe 8mm or even 10mm) to get that open, airy effect

**Yarn selection**:
- White mohair (Section 1): mohair lace or kid mohair — but since the main weight is worsted, perhaps a mohair blend worsted or mohair held with silk. Given the "big needle" description, likely a mohair/silk laceweight worked on 8-10mm needles.
- Alpaca+merino (Sections 2 & 5): worsted weight alpaca/merino blend
- Baby pink (Section 3): worsted or DK weight for the eyelet sections
- Darker pink (Section 4): same weight as baby pink

**Sizing**: Standard women's sizing. I'll design for sizes S/M/L/XL. 

**Gauge**: For worsted on 5.5mm needles: approximately 18 sts × 24 rows = 10cm (4 inches)
For the mohair section on 9mm needles: approximately 12 sts × 16 rows = 10cm

**Measurements for the tiers**:
- Waist: 70-100cm range with elastic
- Tiers all attached at waist, hanging at different lengths:
  - Short tier: ~30cm from waist
  - Medium tier: ~45cm from waist  
  - Long tier: ~60cm from waist
- Each tier would need to be fuller than the waist for a skirt shape — I'll add width/flare

**Stitch counts**:
For a skirt worked in the round:
- Let's use a medium size (M) hip of ~96cm
- At gauge of 18 sts/10cm: 96 × 18/10 = ~173 sts, round to 174 (divisible by 6 for eyelet pattern)
- For S: ~162 sts, M: ~174 sts, L: ~186 sts, XL: ~198 sts

Actually, since these are tiers with ruffles/eyelet patterns, they should have more stitches than the hip measurement to create fullness. Let me think about this differently.

The waistband is Tunisian crochet with elastic — so it starts at waist measurement.
- Waist: S=68cm, M=76cm, L=84cm, XL=92cm
- At gauge 18sts/10cm: S=122, M=137, L=151, XL=166

For the tiers to flare/ruffle, they should be 1.5x–2x the waist circumference in stitches. But since all three tiers attach to the waistband:

Actually for a tiered skirt, I think the construction is:
- Waistband at top
- All three tier tops attach to the waistband
- They hang at different lengths below

For the eyelet lace pattern, I need stitch counts divisible by a pattern repeat. Let's say the eyelet pattern is a multiple of 4 (yo, k2tog repeat).

Let me set stitch counts:
- I'll design for one size initially and include modification notes
- Let's work with a circumference of approximately 100cm for the skirt body (allowing ease over hips)
- 100cm × 18sts/10cm = 180 sts — divisible by 4? 180/4 = 45 ✓

For fullness in tiers, let's say each tier has 180 sts for simplicity (or with increases for flare).

Actually, let me reconsider the construction. In a 3-tiered skirt:
- Option A: Three tiers all attached at the waist, staggered in length
- Option B: One tier attached at waist, second tier attached partway down, third tier at the bottom hem

Looking at typical 3-tiered skirts that cascade, Option A (all at waist, different lengths) makes more sense given the description "they are at 3 different lengths."

Let me plan:
- All three tiers are worked separately (in the round) and then joined to the waistband
- Short tier: Sections 1-5 as described, ending at ~30cm
- Medium tier: Same sections but longer, ending at ~45cm  
- Long tier: Same sections but longest, ending at ~60cm

The tiers will have more stitches than the waist to create flare. Each tier attached at top with gathering/pleating to the waistband.

**Tier circumference at attachment**: ~120-150cm (1.5x waist) for good flare

Let me use 180cm circumference for each tier (that's a lot of stitches... let me reconsider).

For a floaty tiered skirt: maybe 1.5x waist circumference. For waist of ~80cm: 120cm. 
At 18 sts/10cm: 120cm × 18/10 = 216 sts. Divisible by 4? 216/4 = 54 ✓. Good.

But actually for the mohair section with larger needles (say 9mm), gauge changes to about 12sts/10cm. So if the tier is 216 sts at 18sts/10cm, on 9mm needles those 216 sts measure: 216/12 × 10 = 180cm — that's very full, which is great for the lacy mohair top section!

Hmm, actually I think it would be cleaner to maintain consistent stitch count throughout each tier (no increases/decreases between sections) and just change needle size and yarn for different sections. The change in needle size naturally changes the fabric width.

Let me think about this more carefully:

**Construction approach**:
- Each tier worked from top (lacy section) to bottom (second border)
- Started with larger needle for mohair section (top of tier)
- Switch to standard needle for border
- Continue for eyelet sections
- End with final border

Actually, since "top to bottom it goes: 1. lacy pattern, 2. alpaca+merino border, 3. baby pink large eyelets, 4. darker pink large eyelets, 5. another merino+alpaca border"

The tiers are attached to the waistband at the TOP, so we'd knit from top down. But wait — the lacy mohair is at the top of each tier (closest to waist), so if all three tiers hang from the waist, the mohair eyelet section would be at the waist level on all three, with the tiers ending at different lengths below.

This makes sense! The viewer would see:
- Three layers of mohair lace at the waist
- Below that, the medium and long tiers continue with their borders and pink sections
- The bottom shows the full structure of the longest tier

**Final construction plan**:
1. Make Tunisian crochet waistband
2. Knit three tiers (in the round, top-down)
   - Short tier: ~30cm total length
   - Medium tier: ~45cm total length
   - Long tier: ~60cm total length
3. Attach tiers to waistband with gathering
4. Thread elastic through waistband

**Stitch counts — let me finalize**:

I'll design for multiple sizes. Let me work with sizes XS/S/M/L/XL.

Waist circumferences: XS=64cm, S=70cm, M=76cm, L=84cm, XL=92cm

For each tier, I'll use 1.5x hip/waist for fullness (since they attach at waist):
- Actually, let me just make the tier circumference consistent at about 2x the waist for a floaty look
- At worsted gauge 18sts/10cm:
  - For a tier of ~140cm circumference: 252 sts (divisible by 4? 252/4=63 ✓, divisible by 6? 252/6=42 ✓)

Let me simplify and just give one main size (M) with notes for adjustments. The waist is elastic so it's adjustable.

**Main size: M (fits waist 76cm, hip ~96cm)**

For the tier circumference — floaty look, let's go with ~150cm:
150cm × 18/10 = 270 sts. Div by 4? 270/4 = 67.5 ✗
Try 264 sts: 264/4 = 66 ✓, 264/6 = 44 ✓, 264/12 = 22 ✓ ✓

So 264 sts per tier.

At 18 sts/10cm, 264 sts = 146.7cm ≈ 147cm circumference. Good.

**Section lengths for each tier**:

Short tier (total ~30cm):
- Section 1 (mohair lace): ~8cm on large needles (say 9mm with mohair)
- Section 2 (alpaca+merino border): ~2cm
- Section 3 (baby pink eyelets): ~8cm (5 rows small eyelets ~2cm + 1 row drop stitch ~6cm drop)
- Section 4 (darker pink): ~8cm
- Section 5 (border): ~4cm
Total: 8+2+8+8+4 = 30cm ✓

Medium tier (total ~45cm):
- Section 1: ~10cm
- Section 2: ~2cm
- Section 3: ~12cm
- Section 4: ~13cm
- Section 5: ~8cm
Total: 10+2+12+13+8 = 45cm ✓

Long tier (total ~60cm):
- Section 1: ~12cm
- Section 2: ~3cm
- Section 3: ~15cm
- Section 4: ~20cm
- Section 5: ~10cm
Total: 12+3+15+20+10 = 60cm ✓

These are approximate — the knitter adjusts rows to hit these lengths.

**Row counts** (approximate, based on 24 rows/10cm for standard sections):
At 24 rows/10cm:
- 2cm = ~5 rows
- 3cm = ~7 rows
- 4cm = ~10 rows
- 8cm = ~19 rows
- 10cm = ~24 rows
- 12cm = ~29 rows
- 13cm = ~31 rows
- 15cm = ~36 rows
- 20cm = ~48 rows

For the mohair section at ~9mm (gauge ~16 rows/10cm):
- 8cm = ~13 rows (short)
- 10cm = ~16 rows (medium)
- 12cm = ~19 rows (long)

**The large eyelet pattern**: Simple (yo, k2tog) repeat — that gives large eyelets that are 1 stitch wide. For "large" eyelets, maybe a wider pattern like: *k1, yo, k2tog, k1* or *yo, k2, k2tog* repeat. 

Actually "large eyelets" likely means a simple (yo, k2tog) all the way around which gives a lacy mesh with moderate-sized eyelets. For VERY large eyelets (the 15cm drop in section 3), this is a drop stitch or elongated stitch row:
- "Drop stitch" row: k each st wrapping yarn 2-3 times, then on next row drop extra wraps creating elongated loops

**The "very very large eyelets which go down about 15cm long (1 row)"**: This sounds like a drop stitch row. To create ~15cm long loops: wrap yarn around needle 4-5 times, drop extra wraps. Or work into stitch, yo multiple times, then next row drop yos. 

This could also be an elongated/long stitch: insert needle, wrap yarn around a finger or spacer to create a measured loop. For ~15cm, you'd wrap quite a lot. I'll describe wrapping around needle multiple times (e.g., 5 times) and dropping extras.

Actually, re-reading: "baby pink large eyelets again for about 5 rows, and then very very large ones which go down about 15cm long (1 row)" — so the 5 rows of normal eyelets, then 1 row of very elongated ones. These elongated ones hang down 15cm as loops. This is achieved by:
- Row: *insert needle knitwise into next st, wrap yarn around needle 5 times (or around a 15cm guide), complete the stitch* — this creates a very long loop. The loops hang down.

I'll call these "extended loop stitches" and provide clear instructions.

**The mohair section "looks like she uses a really big needle size"** — I'll specify 9mm needles (or even 10mm) for this section only, reverting to 5.5mm for the rest.

Now let me also note: mohair is typically NOT worsted weight — it's laceweight or fingering. So the yarns are:
- Yarn A: White kid mohair (laceweight or fingering weight) — worked on large needles (9mm-10mm)
- Yarn B: Alpaca+merino blend (worsted weight, white or natural)  
- Yarn C: Baby pink yarn (DK or worsted)
- Yarn D: Darker pink yarn (DK or worsted)

Since the main yarn weight in the brief is worsted, I'll list all yarns and note the mohair is a separate weight.

**Waistband in Tunisian wheat stitch**: This is Tunisian crochet. The wheat stitch in Tunisian is worked with a special Tunisian/Afghan crochet hook. The waistband would be:
- Worked flat (back and forth) to the waist circumference
- Long enough to encircle the waist + seamed
- Or worked in a long strip and seamed
- A channel would be created for elastic (either by folding and sewing, or by working two layers)

Tunisian wheat stitch: This stitch creates a textured woven-look fabric. Standard Tunisian, the wheat stitch is: Forward pass: *insert hook into vertical bar, yo, pull up loop* to end; Return pass: yo, pull through 2 loops repeatedly. For wheat stitch specifically, it involves inserting under both vertical bars or twisted stitches — I need to describe this clearly.

Actually, standard Tunisian wheat stitch involves: on the forward pass, alternating between Tunisian simple stitch (Tss) and Tunisian knit stitch (Tks) or similar variation that creates a "wheat" texture. I'll provide clear instructions.

**Crochet hook for waistband**: For worsted weight in Tunisian: 6mm Tunisian/Afghan hook.

**Elastic**: A piece of 2-3cm wide elastic cut to waist measurement.

2. **Construction Plan**:
- Three tiers knitted separately in the round (magic loop or circular needles)
- Tunisian crochet waistband worked flat then seamed
- Tiers attached to waistband by picking up stitches or seaming with gathering
- Elastic threaded through waistband channel

3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Ensure stitch counts are consistent and divisible by pattern repeat throughout
- The mohair section needle change: cast on with 9mm needles, then switch to 5.5mm — stitch count stays same but fabric width changes (gets smaller/narrower). This could cause puckering. Better to: cast on with 5.5mm, work first section with 9mm, continue with 5.5mm. Or accept the width change as part of the design.
- Actually for a tier that gets WIDER at the top (mohair) and narrower below, that's unusual for a skirt. Typically skirts get wider. But if the mohair is on large needles with the same stitch count, it will be wider at the top (good for ruffle effect at waist).
- Alternative: Start with fewer stitches for mohair section and increase when switching to 5.5mm. But this complicates things.
- Simplest: Work all sections with same cast-on stitch count. On 9mm needles the fabric is wider/looser; on 5.5mm it's narrower/tighter. This natural graduation from wide (mohair/9mm) to narrower (worsted/5.5mm) could actually be attractive. The tier naturally tapers from the wide mohair ruffle at top to the more fitted sections below.
- Actually wait — we're working top-down. The MOHAIR is at the top of each tier. If we cast on with 9mm needles for mohair, the top circumference is larger. Then switch to 5.5mm, the circumference naturally reduces. This could work beautifully!
- 264 sts on 9mm (mohair gauge ~11sts/10cm): 264/11×10 = 240cm circumference at top
- 264 sts on 5.5mm (worsted gauge ~18sts/10cm): 264/18×10 = 147cm
- That's quite a dramatic reduction. Maybe too much. 
- Alternative: I'll suggest casting on the CORRECT number of stitches for each section based on desired circumference and gauge for that yarn/needle combination.

Let me redesign:

**Desired circumferences**:
- Mohair section (top of tier): ~160cm (very full, ruffled)
- Standard sections: ~120cm (still full but less so)

On 9mm with mohair at ~11sts/10cm: 160cm × 11/10 = 176 sts → round to 176 (div by 4 = 44 ✓)
On 5.5mm with worsted at ~18sts/10cm: 120cm × 18/10 = 216 sts (div by 4 = 54 ✓)

But these are DIFFERENT stitch counts — we'd need to increase from 176 to 216 when transitioning... or decrease. 

Hmm, for a skirt this would mean the mohair section is wider (full ruffle at top) and the body is narrower — this could look like a collar/ruffle at the top of each tier. Actually this makes sense aesthetically for a layered skirt.

To transition: at the end of mohair section, increase from 176 to 216: increase of 40 sts evenly.
Or actually we could work them separately: cast on separately for mohair (176 sts) and when done, pick up or join to work the border at a different count.

This is getting complex. Let me simplify:

**Simplified approach**: 
- All sections worked on same needle (or with the change noted)
- Main body of tiers: 180 sts on 5.5mm needles (100cm circumference)
- Mohair section: same 180 sts but worked on 9mm needles
  - On 9mm: 180/11×10 = ~164cm circumference (dramatic fullness!)
  - On 5.5mm: 180/18×10 = 100cm
- The transition from 9mm to 5.5mm creates a natural gathering/ruffling effect — the fuller mohair section sits above the narrower sections like a ruffle. This is beautiful!
- No stitch count changes needed. 

So: Cast on 180 sts for the mohair section (with 9mm needles), work lace, then switch to 5.5mm for all remaining sections. The fabric naturally gathers.

180 sts: div by 4? 180/4=45 ✓, div by 6? 180/6=30 ✓. Great.

**Revised gauge calculations**:
- On 9mm with mohair: ~11 sts/10cm → 180 sts = 163.6cm circumference ≈ 164cm
- On 5.5mm with worsted: ~18 sts/10cm → 180 sts = 100cm circumference
- The mohair ruffle at top of each tier will be ~64cm wider than the body below — creating a beautiful gathered/ruffled edge at the top of each tier.

**Border rows (Sections 2 & 5)**:
Alpaca+merino border — worked on 5.5mm with alpaca/merino. Could be a simple garter stitch or rib. Let's say moss/seed stitch or 2x2 rib for a decorative border.

**For the elongated stitch row** (Section 3, very large eyelets ~15cm):
At 5.5mm with worsted, a standard row is about 3-4mm tall.
For 15cm loops, wrap yarn around needle approximately 5-6 times:
- On RS: *k1, [wrap yarn around needle 5 times] rep from * — actually let me think about this differently.
- Drop stitch method: k into stitch wrapping yarn around needle 5 times (quintupling the stitch). On the next row, drop the 4 extra wraps, leaving one elongated loop.
- But the elongated part is the LOOP below, not the stitch itself.

For a ~15cm elongated stitch:
Using a 15cm strip of cardboard as a gauge, wrap yarn around it to create the loop. This is like a loop stitch or extended stitch.

I'll describe it as:
"Extended loop row: *Insert RH needle into next st, wrap yarn around a 15cm piece of cardboard (or your four fingers) then around needle tip, draw loop through st as normal, slip old st off needle; 5 extra wraps remain — on following row, k across dropping all extra wraps to release long loops* rep to end of round"

Actually I think the simplest description is:
"Row X (Extended Loop Row): *k1 wrapping yarn 6 times around RH needle instead of once; rep from * to end. Next row: k to end, slipping loops off needle to create long extended loops that hang freely."

Hmm, the issue is that with multiple wraps, when you drop them, you get unraveling stitches. Let me think...

Standard drop stitch elongation:
- Row 1: *yo 3 times, k1* — this creates 3 yos + 1 knit per stitch
- Row 2: *drop the 3 yo loops, k1* — the loops hang from the k1 above, creating elongated stitches

But for 15cm, you'd need many wraps. Let me calculate:
- Each wrap on a 5.5mm needle adds about 1.7cm of yarn length (circumference ≈ 2×3.14×0.275cm ≈ 1.7cm)... 
- Actually each wrap goes around the needle which is 5.5mm diameter, so each loop = π × 5.5mm ≈ 17.3mm = ~1.7cm
- For 15cm of dropped loop: 15/1.7 ≈ 9 wraps
- That's a lot of wrapping! 

More practically, for very long loops, use a wrap-around method with your hand/fingers:
"Insert needle into stitch, wrap yarn around the needle AND around your left thumb or around a ruler/card guide as many times as needed to create approximately 15cm loops, complete the stitch normally."

I'll describe using a measuring guide (folded card strip 15cm long) held in the left hand to wrap around, ensuring consistent loop length. This is like a fringe knitting technique.

Actually, looking at this from a practical standpoint — those very large eyelets that "go down about 15cm" are more likely just very long drop stitch loops created by working an extra-long yarn over on one row. The most practical method:

Use a 15cm piece of stiff card as a "loop gauge":
- Extended Loop Round: Holding the loop gauge in your left hand, *insert RH needle into next st, wrap yarn around loop gauge AND needle tip (going around the card once), draw loop through as you would a normal stitch, slip old stitch off LH needle — the card helps create a consistent 15cm loop. Repeat to end of round.* Carefully slide loops off the card. These form a fringe-like row of 15cm loops.

But wait — are these hanging loops that are OPEN (like fringe) or are they actual eyelets that go down 15cm? 

"Very very large eyelets which go down about 15cm long (1 row)" — I think these are closed loops (stitches that have been stretched/elongated) rather than open fringe. Perhaps worked with a very large needle (like 20mm+) for just that one row?

If you use a 20mm needle for one row on worsted:
- Circumference of 20mm needle: π × 20mm = 63mm = 6.3cm per wrap
- For 15cm, you'd need about 2-3 wraps
- But a 20mm needle gives loops of about 3cm per stitch, not 15cm

I think the 15cm loops are literally long hanging loops. The most likely technique in the photo is BRIOCHE-style elongated stitches or a long-stitch crocheted row.

Given this seems to be a knitting pattern, I'll describe the technique as follows:
"Using a piece of stiff card cut to 15cm in width as a loop guide, wrap yarn around the card to create uniform 15cm loops for this row. Alternatively, use very large (20mm+) knitting needles and wrap yarn multiple times."

Let me just describe it clearly and practically. I'll use the "wrap around card" method for precision.

Actually, I just thought of the simplest technique that creates those exact long drops: **Drop Stitch with Multiple Yarnovers**

Round (Extended Loop Round): Using circular needle, *k1, then wind yarn 8 times around RH needle tip (counting each wrap); repeat from * to end.
Next Round: *k1 (the actual knit stitch); drop all 8 wraps off needle* — this creates elongated loops.

Each wrap on a typical needle adds: the yarn travels over the needle. When dropped, the loop = (diameter × π) per wrap × 8 = for a 5.5mm needle, each wrap = 17mm, × 8 = 136mm = 13.6cm ≈ 15cm. 

Actually wait, I need to calculate this differently. When you wrap yarn around a 5.5mm needle, the additional loop length when released depends on the yarn thickness and how tight you knit. The released loop = the extra yarn consumed by those wraps. For worsted yarn (about 4mm diameter):
- Each yo around a 5.5mm needle: the yarn path = approximately π × (needle diameter) = π × 5.5mm ≈ 17mm per wrap
- 8 wraps × 17mm = 136mm = ~14cm
- 9 wraps = 153mm = ~15cm ✓

So **9 extra wraps** per stitch on a 5.5mm needle will create approximately 15cm loops when dropped. Let me verify: actually when the wraps are dropped, they're connected to the stitch above and below, so the effective hanging length is about half the total yarn length... No, actually when you drop the wraps, they all fall as one elongated loop. The loop hangs DOWN, and the yarn goes from the stitch above, down to the bottom of the loop, and back up. So the loop length = (total yarn in wraps) / 2. 

So for 15cm drop: total yarn needed = 15 × 2 = 30cm per stitch
At 17mm per wrap: 300mm / 17mm = ~18 wraps.

Hmm, that's a lot of wrapping. Let me reconsider.

Actually for a drop stitch, the "loop" that hangs is essentially a single continuous loop, and its LENGTH (from top to bottom) = approximately total yarn released / 2. But for multiple wraps that merge into one, all the yarn released forms one elongated stitch, and its length is approximately:
- Each yo = 1 extra loop = π × D 
- These stacked YOs, when released, create accumulated yarn that forms ONE long loop
- Effective drop length ≈ (number of wraps × π × D) / 2
- For 15cm drop: 150mm = (N × π × 5.5mm) / 2 → N = 300 / (π × 5.5) = 300/17.28 ≈ 17.4 → ~17-18 wraps

That's impractical. I think I'm overanalyzing this. Let me just say to use a 15cm card as a loop guide and wrap the yarn around it ONCE for each elongated stitch. The card creates a 15cm loop, and you slip the loop off the card onto the needle. This is the most practical and accurate method.

**Method for 15cm elongated stitches**:
1. Cut a piece of stiff card 15cm tall × ~5cm wide (or use a 15cm ruler)
2. For each stitch in the Extended Loop Round:
   - Hold card behind LH needle
   - Insert RH needle into next stitch as to knit
   - Bring yarn up and OVER the card (creating a 15cm loop behind the card)
   - Complete the knit stitch normally
   - The stitch is on RH needle, with a 15cm loop of yarn hanging from it
3. When all stitches are worked, carefully slide the card out
4. Do NOT work the next round until the loops are released
5. The loops hang freely and cannot be further knitted — they form a fringe-like decorative row

But wait, if the loops "hang freely" they'd just be fringe, not connected into a skirt. For a wearable skirt, these loops need to eventually be worked or they need to be secured somehow.

Looking at this differently: perhaps the "very large eyelets down 15cm" are actually very long lacy columns where you work multiple (yo, k2tog) pairs stacked in the same round, creating columns that elongate to ~15cm. Or perhaps they're worked on US50 needles.

OR: and this seems most likely for a layered skirt — the bottom edge of section 3 has a CAST-OFF row worked very loosely with elongated stitches/loops, creating a decorative scalloped or loopy hem between sections 3 and 4. The loops are picked up again and section 4 begins from these loops.

I think the simplest interpretation that works in knitting is:
**Unraveled/dropped yarn over columns**: Work (yo, k2tog) eyelet pattern as usual, but for the ONE "very large" row, make yarnovers that span 15cm by using a very large temporary needle or a cardboard strip. The yo is kept on the large gauge temporarily, then transferred back to regular needle, creating a deliberately oversized eyelet row.

For the pattern, I'll describe this as:
"Extended Loop Round: Temporarily switch to a pair of 20mm (US35) knitting needles or use a 15cm wide card as a template. Work [yo, k2tog] to end of round. Each yo is formed by wrapping the yarn around the card/large needle to create a 15cm loop. Carefully transfer all stitches back to working needles. Continue with next section."

The yo on a 20mm needle: loop diameter would be 20mm, so each loop = π × 20mm = 62.8mm ≈ 6.3cm. That's still not 15cm...

You know what, I think the ACTUAL technique being used (based on the photo description) is likely a variation of this — elongated stitches created by a single yarn over wrapped around the hand multiple times, or it's actually a crochet technique (long treble crochet stitch) incorporated into this knitting pattern. 

Since this is described as a knitting pattern but the waistband uses Tunisian crochet, maybe those elongated stitches are also worked using a long crochet stitch (like a triple treble).

For the PATTERN, I'll describe two methods:
1. **Method A (Knitting)**: Use a 20mm needle + wrap yarn 3-4 times for that one row, creating elongated loops.
2. **Method B (Crochet alternative)**: Using a 6mm crochet hook, work a round of triple treble crochet stitches to create the long elongated stitches in baby pink.

I'll go with Method A primarily and note Method B as alternative.

OK I think I've been overthinking this. Let me just write the pattern with clear instructions and acknowledge that the exact loop technique should be adjusted to achieve approximately 15cm loops. I'll use the "wrap around a 15cm card" method as the primary technique since it's most consistent.

4. **Final Calculations**:

**Tension/Gauge**:
- Main sections (5.5mm needles, worsted): 18 sts × 24 rows = 10cm (4in)
- Mohair section (9mm needles, mohair): 11 sts × 15 rows = 10cm (4in)
- Tunisian waistband (6mm Tunisian hook, worsted): 15 sts × 14 rows = 10cm

**Stitch counts** (for size M):
- All tiers: 180 stitches (cast on with 9mm needles for mohair section)
- Mohair section (9mm): 180 sts = ~164cm circumference ✓ (very full ruffle)
- Standard sections (5.5mm): 180 sts = ~100cm ✓ (good skirt circumference for floaty fit)

Wait — 100cm circumference means approximately 32cm diameter. Hmm, for a SKIRT to slip over hips (say 96cm hips), the skirt needs to be at LEAST 96cm circumference. 100cm is barely enough and won't look like a full, floaty skirt.

Let me reconsider. For a full, floaty tiered skirt, I want ~1.5-2x hip measurement.
Hip = ~96cm (size M)
Desired skirt circumference = 150-180cm

At 18sts/10cm: 180cm × 18/10 = 324 sts; 150cm × 18/10 = 270 sts.

Let's use 264 sts (divisible by 4, 6, 12): 264/18×10 = 146.7cm ≈ 147cm. That works for a floaty skirt.

On 9mm with mohair (11sts/10cm): 264/11×10 = 240cm. That's a VERY full ruffle. Maybe nice?

Or use 216 sts: 216/18×10 = 120cm (still full), on 9mm = 216/11×10 = 196cm mohair. Maybe too much.

Let me settle on 216 sts:
- 216 div by 4 = 54 ✓
- 216 div by 6 = 36 ✓
- 216 div by 12 = 18 ✓

Standard sections (5.5mm): 216 sts = 120cm circumference — great for a floaty skirt
Mohair section (9mm): 216 sts = 196cm circumference — very full ruffle. Could be stunning.

Actually, let me think about this again. Is 196cm of mohair ruffle at the top of each tier wearable/practical? That's almost 2 meters of fabric per tier, × 3 tiers = 6 meters of fabric at the top. That would be ENORMOUS at the waist. But since the tiers are attached at the waist with gathering, the actual attachment point is much smaller.

Actually, re-reading the description: "the waist will be a tunisian wheat stitch with an elastic band to tighten" — so the waistband is maybe 70-80cm, and all three tiers hang from it gathered. The tiers ARE full and gathered, which is fine. The mohair section being extra full (almost 200cm) will create a gorgeous ruffled collar-like effect at the top of each tier.

OK. Final decision: **180 sts** for a good balance.

On 5.5mm: 180/18×10 = 100cm — for a skirt over 96cm hips, this is quite close-fitting (too tight actually). 

Hmm. Let me use **240 sts**:
- 240/4 = 60 ✓ (4-st repeat)
- 240/6 = 40 ✓  
- 240/12 = 20 ✓
- On 5.5mm: 240/18×10 = 133cm ✓ (nice fullness)
- On 9mm with mohair: 240/11×10 = 218cm (very full mohair top) ✓

240 sts it is!

Now let me also think about whether to do multiple sizes. For a pattern that the user said "waist will be a tunisian wheat stitch with elastic band to tighten" — the waistband handles sizing. The skirt tiers just need to be wide enough. I'll offer S/M/L stitch count options.

S: 192 sts (div4=48✓, div6=32✓)
M: 240 sts (div4=60✓, div6=40✓)
L: 288 sts (div4=72✓, div6=48✓)

At 18sts/10cm:
S: 192/18×10 = 106.7cm ≈ 107cm
M: 240/18×10 = 133.3cm ≈ 133cm  
L: 288/18×10 = 160cm

On 9mm (11sts/10cm):
S: 192/11×10 = 174.5cm ≈ 175cm
M: 240/11×10 = 218cm
L: 288/11×10 = 261.8cm ≈ 262cm

OK, let me just go with size M (240 sts) and note adjustments for S and L.

**Row counts for each section** (Size M, all tiers share same section structure, just different number of rows in some sections):

**Gauge reminder**: Main sections: 24 rows/10cm = 2.4 rows/cm = ~10 rows/4cm

**Short Tier (~30cm total)**:
- Section 1 (White Mohair Lace, 9mm): ~7cm → 7 × 15rows/10cm = 10.5 ≈ 10 rows
- Section 2 (Alpaca+Merino Border, 5.5mm): ~3cm → 3 × 24/10 = 7.2 ≈ 8 rows
- Section 3 (Baby Pink Eyelets, 5.5mm): ~9cm → 5 regular eyelet rows (≈2cm), then 1 extended loop row (≈7cm drop)
  - 5 eyelet rows = 5/24×10 = 2.1cm ✓
  - 1 extended loop row + the 15cm of dangling loops = effectively adds ~15cm visual length
  - But measurement of FABRIC (not including hanging loops): 5 rows = ~2cm
  - Total Section 3 fabric height: ~2cm (but visual including loops: ~17cm)
  - For the tier LENGTH calculation, I should count the loops in the visual length
  - Short tier: Sections 1-5 actual fabric = ~30cm, but with the hanging loops they visually extend further
  
Hmm, I need to clarify: do the loops hang DOWN from section 3 and the fabric of sections 4 and 5 begins below those loops? Or do sections 4 and 5 continue from where section 3 left off, and the loops hang in front of sections 4 and 5?

Re-reading: "baby pink large eyelets again for about 5 rows, and then very very large ones which go down about 15cm long (1 row). Darker pink large eyelets continue from previous baby pink colour for a few rows."

The "darker pink large eyelets CONTINUE FROM" the baby pink — so the fabric continues. The extended loops must be loops that hang DOWN but the knitting continues above them. This means the extended loops create a row of loops that hand down, and section 4 (darker pink) starts immediately after that row.

So the construction is:
- 5 rows baby pink eyelets (fabric height ~2cm)
- 1 row extended loops (loops hang ~15cm, but fabric height of this row is just ~3-4mm)
- Sections 4 and 5 continue from above the loops

The loops would hang down in FRONT of sections 4 and 5, creating a layered visual effect. Sections 4 and 5 are BEHIND the hanging loops of section 3.

This makes sense! The loops create a decorative fringe that overlaps with the sections below.

So the TOTAL TIER LENGTH (of actual fabric) for the short tier:
~30cm of actual knitted fabric, with 15cm loops hanging from within section 3.

Visual tier length: Approximately 30cm (fabric) but the loops make it look like 45cm at the loop area.

Let me now set the SHORT TIER dimensions:
Section 1 (Mohair, 9mm): 10 rows ≈ 7cm
Section 2 (Border, 5.5mm): 8 rows ≈ 3.5cm (using 2×2 rib or seed stitch)

Hmm, wait. At the join between Section 1 (9mm) and Section 2 (5.5mm), the stitch count stays at 240. On 5.5mm, those 240 sts = 133cm circumference (vs 218cm on 9mm). There will be natural bunching/gathering, which is the ruffle effect. Beautiful.

Section 3 (Baby Pink, 5.5mm):
- 5 rows regular eyelet: 5/24×10 ≈ 2cm
- 1 row extended loops: +15cm hanging drops
Section 4 (Darker Pink, 5.5mm): ~8cm → 8×24/10 = ~19 rows
Section 5 (Border, 5.5mm): ~4cm → 4×24/10 = ~10 rows

Total actual fabric height (Short Tier):
7 + 3.5 + 2 + (loop row ~0.5cm) + 8 + 4 = 25cm

Hmm, that's shorter than I wanted (30cm). Let me adjust:

Section 1: 12 rows ≈ 8cm
Section 2: 10 rows ≈ 4cm
Section 3: 5 eyelet rows ≈ 2cm + loop row
Section 4: 12cm → ~29 rows
Section 5: 4cm → ~10 rows
Total: 8 + 4 + 2 + 0.5 + 12 + 4 = 30.5cm ≈ 30cm ✓

SHORT TIER: 30cm fabric + 15cm hanging loops at section 3

MEDIUM TIER: 45cm fabric + 15cm hanging loops
Section 1: 15 rows ≈ 10cm
Section 2: 10 rows ≈ 4cm  
Section 3: 5 rows ≈ 2cm + loop row
Section 4: 22cm → ~53 rows
Section 5: 7cm → ~17 rows
Total: 10 + 4 + 2 + 0.5 + 22 + 7 = 45.5cm ≈ 45cm ✓

LONG TIER: 60cm fabric + 15cm hanging loops
Section 1: 19 rows ≈ 13cm
Section 2: 12 rows ≈ 5cm
Section 3: 5 rows ≈ 2cm + loop row
Section 4: 30cm → ~72 rows
Section 5: 10cm → ~24 rows
Total: 13 + 5 + 2 + 0.5 + 30 + 10 = 60.5cm ≈ 60cm ✓

Great! Now let me verify all row counts more precisely.

At 24 rows/10cm on 5.5mm needles with worsted:
- 1cm = 2.4 rows
- 4cm = 9.6 ≈ 10 rows
- 7cm = 16.8 ≈ 17 rows → let me just check everything at end

At 15 rows/10cm on 9mm needles with mohair:
- 1cm = 1.5 rows

**Final row counts**:

Section 1 (Mohair, 15 rows/10cm):
- Short: 8cm → 8×1.5 = 12 rows
- Medium: 10cm → 15 rows
- Long: 13cm → 19 rows (round to even = 18 rows for clean repeats, 12cm actual)

Hmm, the eyelet pattern (yo, k2tog all around) works in any number of rows. So we can use odd or even.

Section 2 (Border, 24 rows/10cm):
- Short: 4cm → 4×2.4 = 9.6 ≈ 10 rows
- Medium: 4cm → 10 rows
- Long: 5cm → 12 rows

Section 3 (Baby Pink, 24 rows/10cm):
- 5 eyelet rows + 1 extended loop row = ALL TIERS THE SAME
- 5 rows + 1 = 6 rows total
- 5 regular rows ≈ 2.1cm
- 1 extended loop row creates 15cm hanging loops (same for all tiers)

Section 4 (Darker Pink, 24 rows/10cm):
- Short: 12cm → 29 rows
- Medium: 22cm → 53 rows
- Long: 30cm → 72 rows

Section 5 (Border, 24 rows/10cm):
- Short: 4cm → 10 rows
- Medium: 7cm → 17 rows
- Long: 10cm → 24 rows

**Total actual heights**:
Short: (12/1.5×1)+(10/2.4×1)+(6/2.4×1)+(29/2.4×1)+(10/2.4×1)
= 8cm + 4.2cm + 2.5cm + 12.1cm + 4.2cm = 31cm ≈ 30cm ✓

Wait, let me redo:
- Section 1: 12 rows ÷ 15rows/10cm × 10 = 8cm ✓
- Section 2: 10 rows ÷ 24rows/10cm × 10 = 4.2cm ✓
- Section 3: 6 rows ÷ 24rows/10cm × 10 = 2.5cm (for fabric; loops hang 15cm below)
- Section 4: 29 rows ÷ 24rows/10cm × 10 = 12.1cm ✓
- Section 5: 10 rows ÷ 24rows/10cm × 10 = 4.2cm ✓
Total Short: 8 + 4.2 + 2.5 + 12.1 + 4.2 = 31cm ≈ 30cm ✓

Medium:
- S1: 15 rows = 10cm ✓
- S2: 10 rows = 4.2cm
- S3: 6 rows = 2.5cm
- S4: 53 rows ÷ 24 × 10 = 22.1cm ✓
- S5: 17 rows ÷ 24 × 10 = 7.1cm ✓
Total: 10 + 4.2 + 2.5 + 22.1 + 7.1 = 45.9cm ≈ 45cm ✓

Long:
- S1: 18 rows ÷ 15 × 10 = 12cm (adjusted)
- S2: 12 rows ÷ 24 × 10 = 5cm ✓
- S3: 6 rows = 2.5cm
- S4: 72 rows ÷ 24 × 10 = 30cm ✓
- S5: 24 rows ÷ 24 × 10 = 10cm ✓
Total: 12 + 5 + 2.5 + 30 + 10 = 59.5cm ≈ 60cm ✓

Great! All tiers check out.

**Waistband (Tunisian crochet)**:
- Worked flat in wheat stitch
- Width = waist circumference + 2cm for seam (say for M waist of 76cm): chain 76+2 = 78 sts
- Height: enough to thread elastic through and look attractive: ~5-6cm, say 8 rows at Tunisian tension (14rows/10cm): 8 rows = 5.7cm

Tunisian gauge: 15 sts × 14 rows = 10cm
78 cm width: 78 × 15/10 = 117 sts chain

Actually for Tunisian crochet, the starting chain usually needs to be the same as your stitch count. 

Chain 117 for size M. 

**Elastic**: Waist measurement, threading through a fold or channel in the waistband.

The waistband channel: after working the Tunisian band, fold in half lengthwise (halving the 5.7cm to ~2.8cm) and seam, creating a pocket/tube for elastic. Or work with a buttonhole row for threading.

**Yarn requirements** (estimated):
- Yarn A (White Kid Mohair): 3 × ~150m = 450m total (all 3 tiers × mohair section)
  Actually: 240 sts × 3 tiers × average row length of ~240/18×0.1m = ~133m per tier of main yarn; mohair is lighter. Roughly 100-150m per tier × 3 = 300-450m.
- Yarn B (Alpaca+Merino, white/natural): ~200m for all 6 borders
- Yarn C (Baby Pink): ~150m for all 3 Section 3s
- Yarn D (Darker Pink): ~400m for all 3 Section 4s (these are the longest regular sections)
- Yarn E (White/Cream for waistband, worsted): ~100m

Let me estimate more carefully:
Circumference per row: 240 sts at 18sts/10cm = 133cm = 1.33m per round
For standard sections:
- Section 2 (10 rows each tier × 3 = 30 rows × 1.33m) = ~40m total border yarn
- Section 4 (average ~51 rows × 3 tiers... wait let me average: 29+53+72=154 rows ÷ 3 = 51 avg)
  Short: 29 rows × 1.33m = 38.6m
  Medium: 53 rows × 1.33m = 70.5m
  Long: 72 rows × 1.33m = 95.8m
  Total Yarn D: ~205m + 20% extra ≈ 250m
- Section 5 (10+17+24 = 51 rows × 1.33m) = ~68m total border yarn
  Combined border yarn B (Sections 2+5): ~40+68 = 108m total ≈ 120m with waste

Actually wait, Section 2 and Section 5 both use Yarn B (alpaca+merino), so:
Yarn B total: (10+10+12)+(10+17+24) = 32+51 = 83 rows × 1.33m = ~110m ≈ 150m to be safe

Section 3 uses Yarn C (baby pink): 6 rows × 3 tiers = 18 rows × 1.33m = ~24m ≈ 50m to be safe (loops use more yarn)

Section 1 uses Yarn A (mohair): on 9mm needles, row length = 240 sts / 11 sts/10cm × 0.1m... wait:
At 11sts/10cm, 240 sts = 240/11×10cm = 218cm per row = 2.18m per row
Short: 12 rows × 2.18m = 26m
Medium: 15 rows × 2.18m = 33m
Long: 18 rows × 2.18m = 39m
Total Yarn A: 98m ≈ 150m to be safe

But wait, mohair is often sold in smaller quantities (25-50g balls). At fingering/laceweight mohair with ~200-400m per 50g, 150m is well within one or two balls.

**Summary of yarn**:
- Yarn A (White Kid Mohair, lace/fingering weight): ~150m (1-2 × 25g balls)
- Yarn B (Alpaca+Merino blend, worsted, white/cream): ~200m
- Yarn C (Baby Pink, worsted or DK): ~60m
- Yarn D (Darker Pink, worsted or DK): ~280m
- Yarn E (White/Natural worsted for waistband): ~100m (or same as Yarn B)
Actually, the user doesn't specifically distinguish Yarn B and E for waistband — could use Yarn B for waistband too. Let me combine: Yarn B total ≈ 300m (for borders + waistband).

OK, I think I have enough to write the pattern now. Let me also note:

**Eyelet Pattern**:
Simple (yo, k2tog) repeat = 2-st repeat, gives a neat row of eyelets.
240 sts ÷ 2 = 120 repeats ✓

Alternative for "larger" eyelets: 
- (k1, yo, k2tog, k1) = 4-st repeat: 240/4 = 60 repeats ✓ — gives more visible eyelets with solid sts between
- Or: (yo, k2tog) every other st with k sts in between

I'll use: Eyelet Round: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end — full eyelet round (every stitch is part of eyelet)
For "large" eyelets, work this pattern. For non-eyelet rows, work in stocking stitch (knit all rounds).

Each "eyelet section" consists of alternating eyelet rounds and plain rounds:
Row 1: Eyelet round
Row 2: K all
Row 3: Eyelet round
Row 4: K all
Row 5: Eyelet round
Row 6 (extended loop row): Extended loop technique

**Mohair section**: 
Round 1: *yo, k2tog; rep from * (eyelet round)
Round 2: K all
...repeat pattern

But mohair has 12 rows total... let me do: 
Rows 1-12 of mohair section:
- Rounds 1,3,5,7,9,11: Eyelet Round (yo, k2tog to end)
- Rounds 2,4,6,8,10,12: K all
— 6 eyelet rounds, 6 plain rounds (12 total)

For short tier (12 rows): This works perfectly!
For medium (15 rows): 7 eyelet rounds, 8 plain rounds (15 total: e-p-e-p-e-p-e-p-e-p-e-p-e-p-e)
For long (18 rows): 9 eyelet rounds, 9 plain rounds

Actually I'll simplify: just instruct to work eyelet rounds alternating with plain rounds for the stated number of rows.

**Border sections** (Sections 2 & 5): I'll use seed stitch (alternating k1, p1, offset each row) or 2×2 rib. For a flat border look, moss stitch (seed stitch) works well. In the round:
Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from *
Round 2: *p1, k1; rep from *
(This creates moss stitch / seed stitch)

240 sts: divisible by 2 ✓ for moss stitch.

Or I could use a simple 2×2 rib: 240/4=60 ✓

I'll go with **2×2 rib** for the borders as it looks clean and slightly textured, different from the eyelet sections.

**Section 4 (Darker Pink)**: Eyelet pattern same as Section 1 but in darker pink on 5.5mm needles.
Description says "large eyelets continue from previous baby pink colour for a few rows" — wait, it says "darker pink large eyelets continue from previous baby pink colour" — "continue" meaning the eyelet pattern continues but in darker pink. Not necessarily the same needle size. Use 5.5mm.

For Section 4, continue eyelet rounds alternating with plain rounds in darker pink.

---

OK! I now have everything I need. Let me also address:

**Tunisian Wheat Stitch** for waistband:
Tunisian Wheat Stitch (also called Wheat Stitch or Smock Stitch in Tunisian) — a textured variation that creates a woven/wheat-like texture. 

The standard Tunisian wheat stitch typically involves working into the vertical bars with twisted stitches. Here's my interpretation:
- All Tunisian crochet uses Forward Pass (FP) and Return Pass (RP)
- Foundation chain: 117 sts (for size M, 78cm)
- FP: Insert hook under vertical bar of next st, twist hook, yo, pull through a loop (Tunisian twisted simple stitch)
- RP: yo, pull through 2 loops to end

Actually, the most common "wheat stitch" in Tunisian I can find:
- Row 1 FP: *skip 1 st, Tss in next st, Tss in skipped st (crossing them); rep from *
- Row 1 RP: standard return pass
This creates a crossed/braided texture resembling wheat.

Alternatively, some sources describe Tunisian Wheat Stitch as:
- Alternating rows of Tss and Tks

For clarity, I'll describe the exact stitch pattern clearly in the pattern.

---

Let me now also think about how to ATTACH the tiers to the waistband:

Method: After completing the Tunisian waistband (seamed into a ring), pick up stitches around the bottom edge and join all three tier tops. Since the tiers are worked in the round, they can be cast on separately and then joined.

For attachment:
- Complete all three tiers
- With waistband completed and seamed into a circle
- Gather the top of each tier (cast-on edge) to evenly distribute: 
  - Divide waistband circumference by 3... no, all three tiers attach to the FULL waistband circumference
  - Each tier attaches to the same waistband
  - So all three cast-on edges (each 240 sts) gather into the waistband
  - Total attachment sts: 3 × 240 = 720 sts gathered into waistband sts (~117 sts)
  - That's ~6:1 gather ratio. Very full!
  
For attachment, simple method: 
- Fold top 1cm of each tier towards WS
- Position tiers behind waistband (all three at same level)
- Sew cast-on edge to bottom of waistband with whip stitch, gathering as you go
- Ensure all three tiers are evenly distributed and gathered

This makes the skirt VERY full at the waist — 3 × 133cm = 399cm of fabric gathered into a ~78cm waistband. That's a lot of gathering for a tiered look. This is similar to a tutu-style skirt.

---

Now, one more thing: **sizing**.

I'll provide the pattern in one size with adjustment notes. For the Tunisian waistband, I'll provide instructions for 4 sizes.

For the tiers, the stitch count can be adjusted:
- XS: 192 sts (div4=48✓)
- S: 216 sts (div4=54✓) 
- M: 240 sts (div4=60✓)
- L: 264 sts (div4=66✓)
- XL: 288 sts (div4=72✓)

The tier stitch count determines fullness. The waistband handles the actual fit. So knitters with smaller waists but who want full tiers can still use M tier stitch count.

For simplicity, I'll write the pattern for size M (240 sts) and note XS-XL options.

---

**One more consideration**: The pattern involves two different crafts:
1. Knitting (tiers)
2. Tunisian Crochet (waistband)

I'll clearly separate these sections and note that both require separate tools (circular knitting needles + Tunisian crochet hook).

---

Alright, I'm now ready to write the full pattern. Let me also think about what to call the stitch patterns:

**Main eyelet pattern**:
Round A (Eyelet Round): *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end
Round B (Plain Round): K to end

**Mohair Section Pattern** (worked on 9mm needles):
[Eyelet Round, Plain Round] × (6/7/9 times for Short/Medium/Long) — but I'll simplify to just state rounds

Wait, let me reconsider. For the eyelet row to look right, I need pairs:
yo, k2tog — this is 2 stitches worked together. 240/2 = 120 pairs ✓.
After this round: still 240 stitches ✓ (each yo+k2tog = 2 sts in, 2 sts out)

---

One more thought: the **mohair yarn**. Pure kid mohair laceweight is VERY different from worsted. But the user said to use mohair for the lacy section and mentioned "really big needle size." 

For practicality, I'll recommend:
- **Yarn A**: Kid Mohair + Silk blend (e.g., Rowan Kidsilk Haze style) at lace weight (~210-430m per 25g)
- Worked on 9mm needles for an airy, halo effect

This is a practical recommendation that matches the description.

Alternatively: Brushed mohair worsted (like Paintbox Simply DK + Mohair blend). But the user said "really big needle size" which implies laceweight mohair on oversized needles.

I'll go with **fingering/laceweight mohair (Yarn A) on 9mm needles**.

---

Alright, I'm REALLY ready to write the pattern now. Let me also note one practical issue:

**Working with mohair on large needles for cast-on**: The initial cast-on with mohair on 9mm needles will be very loose and airy. I recommend a long-tail cast-on.

**Joining for working in the round**: Use magic loop method on a long circular needle (100cm+) or use 4-5 DPNs. Given 240 stitches, a 80-100cm circular needle is most practical.

**Needle sizes needed**:
- 9mm circular (80cm+) for mohair section
- 5