purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
Thunderbird 2 is the iconic green transporter aircraft from the classic TV series "International Rescue." It has a very distinctive shape:
- Wide, flat, elongated body (like a flattened oval/ellipse from above, with a swept-back fuselage)
- Bulbous nose that tapers to a blunt point
- The underside has a recessed bay where the "pod" sits
- Short, swept-back wings on either side
- Twin tail fins at the rear
- The pod itself is a large green rectangular container that slots into the undercarriage

For a knitted softie, I need to think about how to construct this realistically:
- The main body: worked in the round, shaped to be wide and flattened (not round like a tube)
- Wings: worked flat, attached separately
- Tail fins: worked flat, attached
- The pod: a separate rectangular/slightly rounded box shape that can be inserted into/removed from the undercarriage
- The "removable pod" mechanism: I'll use a Velcro tab or button closure, or simply an open pocket in the undercarriage

Colour: Thunderbird 2 is a specific shade of jade/teal green. I'll specify a suitable green worsted yarn.

Construction approach:
- Main body: Worked flat in two halves (top and bottom), seamed together, OR worked in the round with shaping. Given the flat, wide shape, I think working flat in two halves then seaming makes the most sense for getting the distinctive wide-flat profile.
- Actually, for a softie, I'll work the body in the round (oval cross-section) with decreases to flatten it. Let me think more carefully.

The body of TB2 from the side looks like: a large, slightly rounded belly, flat top, with the front sloping downward and the back tapering. From above it's a wide ellipse. From the front it's wide and squat.

I think the best approach for a knitted softie:
- Body: worked flat in two pieces (upper body and lower body), seamed around the sides. The lower body will have a rectangular opening for the pod bay.
- Wings: knitted flat, seamed, stuffed lightly, attached at sides
- Tail section: two vertical fins, worked flat
- Engines/nacelles on top: small tubes
- Pod: a rectangular box knitted in the round, stuffed, with a flap or velcro to attach to the pod bay

Let me define the finished size. Worsted weight softie - let's aim for approximately 35cm (14") long x 20cm (8") wide x 8cm (3") tall for the body. The pod would be about 12cm (5") long x 8cm (3") wide x 5cm (2") tall.

**Tension at worsted weight**: Typically 20 sts x 28 rows = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Let me work out the stitch counts:

Body length: 35cm = 70 sts (at 20 sts/10cm = 2 sts/cm)
Body width: 20cm = 40 sts
Body height: 8cm = about 22 rows (at 28 rows/10cm ≈ 2.8 rows/cm)

Actually, let me reconsider. 20 sts per 10cm means 2 sts per cm.
- 35cm long = 70 sts along the length
- 20cm wide = 40 sts along the width
- 8cm tall = ~22 rows for height

For the body, I'll work two flat pieces:
**Upper body**: Cast on for the width, work shaped rows for the length, with shaping for nose taper and tail taper.
**Lower body**: Similar but with a rectangular cut-out / opening for the pod bay.

Let me think about this differently. The body construction:

I'll use an OVAL cast-on method (like for the bottom of a bag) and work in the round.

Actually, let me plan the body as two flat pieces sewn together:

**Upper Body Piece:**
- Cast on 14 sts for the nose
- Increase to 40 sts width over about 8cm of length
- Work straight for the middle section
- Decrease back for the tail

Let me design the shaping more carefully.

TB2 profile (from above):
- Nose: comes to a rounded point, widens quickly
- Main body: wide elliptical shape (widest in the front-third)
- Tail: tapers more gradually, with tail fins

Measurements I'll aim for:
- Total length: 35cm (14")
- Maximum width: 20cm (8") at widest point (about 1/3 from nose)
- Tail width at very back: about 8cm (3")
- Height/depth: 8cm (3") including the pod bay

Let me set up the math:

At 20 sts/10cm:
- Length 35cm = ~70 rows of the flat piece running front-to-back
- Width 20cm = 40 sts at widest
- Width at nose start: 6 sts (3cm)
- Width at tail end: 16 sts (8cm)

Upper body shaping plan:
- Cast on 6 sts
- Rows 1-10 (5cm): Increase at each end every row = +10 sts each side... that's too fast.

Let me think about this as rows:

At 28 rows/10cm that's 2.8 rows/cm.

Nose to widest point: let's say 8cm = 22 rows
Widest to tail taper start: let's say 20cm = 56 rows  
Tail taper: 7cm = 20 rows

So total rows: 22 + 56 + 20 = 98 rows ≈ 35cm ✓ (98/2.8 = 35cm) ✓

Width changes:
- Nose: start with 6 sts (CO 3, join? No, flat piece - CO 6)
- Widen to 40 sts over 22 rows: need to add 34 sts total (17 each side, but since both sides increase simultaneously = 17 increases per side over 22 rows)
  - Increase every row: 22 increases per side maximum → we need 17 → increase every ~1.3 rows → increase on 17 of 22 rows (roughly: inc every RS row gives 11 increases, not enough)
  - Better: increase both ends every row for first 17 rows (adds 34 sts), work straight for rows 18-22
  
Actually: 6 sts + (17 × 2) = 6 + 34 = 40 sts ✓
So: inc at each end EVERY row for 17 rows, then work 5 rows straight. 17 rows of increasing + 5 straight = 22 rows. This gives 40 sts. ✓

- Work straight for 56 rows (widest section)

- Tail taper: 40 sts down to 16 sts = decrease 24 sts (12 per side) over 20 rows
  - Dec every other row: 10 dec rows × 2 = 20 sts removed... that gives 40-20 = 20 sts, not 16.
  - Hmm. Let me aim for 20 sts at tail (10cm width): decrease 20 sts over 20 rows = dec each end every row for 10 rows... 
  
Let me revise tail end width: 20 sts (10cm) which is a reasonable tail width for TB2.
- 40 sts to 20 sts = 20 sts decrease = 10 each side over 20 rows
- Dec each end every other row: 10 dec rows → 20 rows ✓ → 40 - 20 = 20 sts ✓

Cast off 20 sts at tail end.

This gives me the upper body piece.

Now let me think about the actual shape more carefully. TB2's body from above is more like:
- Front: rounded/blunt nose pointing forward/down
- Widest: roughly 1/4 to 1/3 from front
- The body then maintains most of its width
- Back narrows slightly with two humps for the vertical stabilisers

I think my plan above is reasonable for a stylised softie version.

**Lower body** - same shape but:
- Has a rectangular opening (pod bay) that's approximately 12cm × 8cm
- The pod sits in/hangs from this opening

For the lower body, I'll work in two sections - front section, then leave stitches for pod bay opening, then rear section.

Pod bay opening: 12cm long × 8cm wide
At 2 sts/cm × 12cm = 24 sts wide (along the length of the body)
At 2.8 rows/cm × 8cm... wait, the width of the body IS 20cm = 40 sts, and the pod bay is 8cm wide within that = 16 sts. The pod bay would be centered, so 12 sts on each side remain.

Actually, thinking about it differently - the pod bay is a rectangular hole in the underside. I'll create this as follows:
- The lower body is worked the same as the upper body BUT
- At the pod bay section (centered both width and length-wise), I work the left and right edges separately, leaving the center open.

Let me position the pod bay:
- It starts 8cm from the nose = about 22 rows in
- Wait, actually on TB2 the pod is quite far back/central. Let me put it centered on the body.
- Total body = 98 rows. Center = row 49.
- Pod bay length = 12cm = 34 rows (34/2.8 = 12.1cm ✓)
- Pod bay starts at row 49 - 17 = row 32 (from nose end)
- Pod bay ends at row 32 + 34 = row 66

Width of lower body at pod bay section ≈ 40 sts (we're in the widest section)
Pod bay width = 16 sts (8cm), centered = 12 sts on each side

So during rows 32-66 of the lower body piece:
- Work 12 sts, then put center 16 sts on hold or leave gap, then work remaining 12 sts
- This creates the opening

Hmm, but the body width isn't constant through all those rows since the nose section tapers. The widest part starts at row 22.

So the pod bay starts at row 32 (which is within the widest section at 40 sts).

Let me verify the pod bay sits in the straight section:
- Straight section: rows 22-78 (56 rows)
- Pod bay: rows 32-66 (34 rows)
- Row 32 is within 22-78 ✓
- Row 66 is within 22-78 ✓

Great, so the pod bay is entirely within the widest/straight section.

**Pod**:
- Rectangular box: 12cm × 8cm × 5cm
- At tension: 12cm = 24 sts, 8cm = 16 sts, 5cm = 14 rows (height)

The pod will be worked as a flat rectangle bottom, then sides worked in the round (or flat and seamed). It will be stuffed and have a velcro strip or snap to attach to the pod bay.

Actually, for the pod bay attachment: I'll put a simple velcro strip along the top of the pod and corresponding velcro inside the pod bay opening. Or I could use a button and loop, or simply make the pod snug enough to friction-fit. I'll go with velcro as it's most toy-appropriate.

**Wings**:
TB2's wings are distinctive swept-back, wide wings. From the side they're fairly thin.
- Wing span (each side from body): about 10cm (4")
- Wing length (front to back at root): about 12cm (5")
- Wing shape: swept back, wider at root, tapering toward tip

I'll knit each wing as a flat piece (two sides, seamed, lightly stuffed):
- At root: 24 sts (12cm)
- At tip: 8 sts (4cm)
- Wing depth: 20 sts (10cm)

Wing shaping: a trapezoid with angled front and back edges.

**Vertical Tail Fins**:
Two fins at the tail end:
- Height: about 6cm = ~17 rows
- Width at base: 8cm = 16 sts
- Width at top: 3cm = 6 sts

**Engine Nacelles** (the two bumps on top of the body):
TB2 has two large engine pods/nacelles on the dorsal surface.
- Each nacelle: about 8cm long × 4cm wide × 3cm tall
- Work as small tubes stuffed and attached to top

**Cockpit**:
A small raised section at the nose - can be embroidered or made as a small separate piece.

Now let me also think about the construction sequence:

1. Upper body (flat piece)
2. Lower body with pod bay opening (flat piece)  
3. Side gussets (to give the body its depth/height - 8cm = ~22 rows)
   OR: work body as two flat pieces and add a strip around the sides
4. Wings (two pieces each, seamed)
5. Tail fins (flat pieces, doubled)
6. Engine nacelles (small tubes)
7. Pod (rectangular box)
8. Assembly

Actually, for a softie construction, let me simplify:

**Body construction option**: Rather than separate upper/lower/gusset, I could work in the round with a specific construction:

Start at the nose, cast on a small number, work in the round increasing to form the body shape, then decrease at the tail. The "height" would be the circumference divided by 2 (top and bottom half). At 8cm height, that's 16cm circumference... but the body is 20cm wide, so this doesn't work simply as a tube.

I think the BEST approach for the distinctive flat TB2 shape is:

**Method: Two flat pieces (upper and lower) with a side gusset strip**

This is like making a flat cushion/pillow shape but with a gusset (like a boxy bag):
- Upper body piece: shaped as described
- Lower body piece: same shape but with pod bay opening
- Gusset strip: 4cm wide (the height/depth of the body is 8cm, split into 4cm top and 4cm bottom = the gusset)

Wait, the gusset runs around the perimeter of the body shape. The body's perimeter is... the shape is roughly elliptical.

Let me simplify further and use a different construction that gives a flatter result:

**REVISED Construction Plan:**

The body will be worked as a single piece in a modified method:

1. **Body**: Cast on and work FLAT for the upper surface, picking up stitches around the perimeter and then working the lower surface (like a knitted pillow with integral sides). 

Actually, I think for this advanced pattern, the cleanest construction is:

**Body**: Two flat pieces worked separately, seamed around with short rows or a pickup-and-knit gusset to give depth.

But let me keep it manageable. For an advanced knitter:

**FINAL Construction Plan:**

**Body (Main Hull):**
- Worked flat, TWO pieces: top hull and bottom hull
- Both pieces are the same elongated oval shape
- They are seamed together around the perimeter, leaving a "gusset" worked as follows:
  - After seaming ¾ around, the body depth is created by knitting the gusset separately and sewing in
  - OR: work with a side strip (4cm / ~8 sts wide) that creates the boxy depth
  
Actually, I'll go with the simplest approach that gives the right shape:

**Top Hull + Bottom Hull worked flat, with a separate side gusset strip sewn between them.** The gusset gives the 8cm of depth.

Hmm, but 8cm around the perimeter of a large oval is quite a bit of sewing.

You know what, let me go with this cleaner approach:

**The body is worked from nose to tail, in the ROUND (as an oval tube), with the top and bottom of the tube being the top and bottom of the aircraft.**

An oval tube construction:
- Cast on for the oval (front-view cross-section): width 20cm = 40 sts for top, 40 sts for bottom, + sides ~8cm each = 16 sts each side... 

Wait, that's the oval cross-section when viewed from the FRONT:
- Width = 20cm
- Height = 8cm

Hmm, front-view cross-section would be an oval 20cm wide, 8cm tall.
Perimeter of this oval ≈ π × √[(20² + 8²)/2] ≈ π × √[(400+64)/2] ≈ π × √232 ≈ π × 15.2 ≈ 47.8cm

At 2 sts/cm = ~96 sts for the oval tube cross-section.

But this means working in the round for 35cm (70 rows if we go back to stocking stitch in the round). The issue is that the CROSS-SECTION CHANGES ALONG THE LENGTH (narrower at nose, wider in middle, slightly narrower at tail).

This is getting complex. Let me think about what gives the nicest TB2 shape for a softie.

**Simplest effective approach for an advanced knitter:**

I'll use a construction similar to a knitted toy bear or aircraft softie:
- **Body**: Worked as a large flat OVAL (top and bottom views), two pieces
- **Gusset**: Instead of a separate gusset, I'll work short-row shaping to give depth
- OR just stuff it more firmly with a bottom piece

Actually, you know what? Let me look at this from a "what makes sense for the shape" perspective:

TB2 is essentially:
- From ABOVE: a large elongated oval/teardrop
- From the SIDE: a flattened lens/lozenge shape  
- From the FRONT: a wide, flat ellipse

The BEST softie construction for this is:

**Option A: Work in the round as a flat oval (think: knitted frisbee shape, but oval)**
- Start at centre of top surface with an oval cast-on (like the bottom of a bag)
- Work increasing rounds until full size
- Then work the sides downward (short gusset)
- Work the bottom surface decreasing

This is like making a box in the round. 

**Option B: Three pieces - top, bottom, gusset strip**
This is the simplest and most controllable for the distinctive shape.

I'll go with **Option B** as it's most suitable for the complex TB2 shape.

Let me now properly design:

**GAUGE: 20 sts × 28 rows = 10cm in stocking stitch on 4mm needles**
(This is standard worsted / DK-heavy gauge)

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:**
- Body length: 36cm (14¼")
- Body width: 22cm (8¾") at widest
- Body depth: 8cm (3¼")
- Pod: 14cm × 9cm × 5cm (5½" × 3½" × 2")
- Wingspan (hull to wingtip each side): 12cm (4¾")

Let me redo with these measurements:
- 1cm = 2 sts, 1cm = 2.8 rows

**TOP HULL (upper body):**

Shape (viewed from above, like an elongated oval):
- Start (nose): CO 4 sts
- Increase to maximum width of 44 sts (22cm) 
- Work straight section
- Decrease to tail width of 16 sts (8cm)
- Then work tail section

Let me plan row by row:

**Nose section** (nose to widest point):
- Distance: 8cm = 22 rows
- Sts: 4 → 44 (need to add 40 sts = 20 each side over 22 rows)
- 20 increases per side over 22 rows = every row? 20/22 = almost every row
- Plan: Inc each end every row for 20 rows (adding 40 sts), then work 2 rows straight
- Total: 22 rows, end with 4 + 40 = 44 sts ✓

**Mid section** (widest part):
- Distance: 18cm = 50 rows
- Sts: 44 throughout ✓

**Tail taper section:**
- Distance: 10cm = 28 rows
- Sts: 44 → 16 (decrease 28 sts = 14 each side)
- 14 decreases per side over 28 rows = every other row
- Dec each end every RS row (every other row): 14 × 2 rows = 28 rows ✓
- End: 44 - 28 = 16 sts ✓

Total rows: 22 + 50 + 28 = 100 rows = 35.7cm ≈ 36cm ✓

**Bottom hull** - same as top hull EXCEPT:
Pod bay opening centered in mid-section:
- Pod bay: 14cm long × 9cm wide
- 14cm = 39 rows... hmm, let me make it 40 rows (14.3cm)
- 9cm = 18 sts, centered within 44 sts = (44-18)/2 = 13 sts each side

Pod bay position:
- Mid-section starts at row 22, ends at row 72
- Mid-section center = row 47
- Pod bay: rows 47-17=30 to 47+20=67 (that's 37 rows = 13.2cm)
- Let me just say: pod bay starts at row 27 (5cm into mid-section) and runs for 40 rows to row 67 (within the 22-72 mid-section range) ✓

During pod bay rows (rows 27-66 of bottom hull):
- Work 13 sts, leave next 18 sts unworked (pod bay opening), work remaining 13 sts
- Actually, this means working two separate sections

Wait, I need to check: at rows 27-66, we're in the mid-section where total width = 44 sts.
13 + 18 + 13 = 44 ✓

For the bottom hull, during pod bay section, work each side strip separately:
- Left strip: 13 sts, turning at the pod bay edge
- Right strip: 13 sts

Then work these two sections parallel (or separately, then rejoin).

For a flat-knit piece, this means:
- At row 27: work 13 sts, cast off next 18 sts, work to end (13 sts)
- Work left section (13 sts) for 40 rows
- Rejoin yarn to right section, work 40 rows
- Row 67: cast on 18 sts, joining the two sections back together
- Continue to end

Hmm, but these are two separate edge sections. For cleanliness, I'll work them separately and the pod bay is the gap.

**Side gusset strip:**
- Width (depth of body): 8cm = 16 sts
- Length: runs around the perimeter of the hull shape
- Perimeter of the hull... this is complex to calculate exactly.

The hull is roughly:
- Two straight sides (mid-section sides): 18cm = 50 rows, × 2 = 100 rows of gusset strip
- Nose curve: roughly a half-ellipse with width 22cm, height 8cm. Perimeter of this curve ≈ half the ellipse perimeter. Full ellipse perimeter ≈ π(3(a+b) - √((3a+b)(a+3b))) where a=11, b=4cm... 
  - ≈ π(3(15) - √((3(11)+4)(11+3(4)))) 
  - = π(45 - √((37)(23)))
  - = π(45 - √851)
  - = π(45 - 29.2)
  - = π(15.8) ≈ 49.6cm
  - Half ellipse ≈ 24.8cm ≈ 25cm
- Tail curve: similar calculation with width 16cm = 8cm half-width, height ??
  Actually at the tail end the piece is 16 sts = 8cm wide. The "curve" here comes from the decrease rows. The taper is more like a triangle/point. The tail runs 10cm in length. As an approximation, the tail curve perimeter ≈ 2 × √(8² + 10²)... 

This is getting very complicated for what is essentially a seaming strip. Let me simplify the pattern.

**REVISED APPROACH - SIMPLER CONSTRUCTION:**

Let me use a different method that's cleaner to write and execute:

**Construction using an envelope/sock-like approach:**
- The body is worked in THREE stages as flat pieces:
  1. TOP HULL PIECE (flat)
  2. BOTTOM HULL PIECE (flat, with pod bay opening)
  3. SIDE GUSSET (a long strip, worked flat, seamed around the perimeter of the two hull pieces)

For the side gusset, rather than calculating perimeter precisely, I'll give the measurement and let the knitter work it:

Gusset strip: 
- CO 16 sts
- Work in st st until strip measures the full perimeter of the hull pieces (approximately 110cm / 43")
- The gusset depth = 8cm = 16 sts ✓ (2 sts/cm × 8cm = 16 sts)

Wait, I said 2 sts/cm earlier. Let me recalculate: 20 sts = 10cm → 2 sts/cm. So 8cm = 16 sts. ✓

Alternatively, for the gusset, I could pick up and knit around one hull piece, then join to the other. That might be cleaner.

OK actually, let me think about this from a practical standpoint. The most common softie construction I've seen is:

1. Two main body pieces
2. Seamed together with stuffing
3. Dimensional details added

For TB2, the issue is that the shape needs to be noticeably flat/wide, not round. 

**MY FINAL CONSTRUCTION DECISION:**

I'll use a construction specifically suited to this flat aircraft shape:

**BODY**: 
- Top hull and bottom hull worked FLAT
- Seamed together around the perimeter
- The body's depth/thickness comes from the stuffing AND from a BOXED SEAMING technique (similar to how boxed cushion covers are made)
- To achieve this with the boxed seam: at the corners of the seaming, pinch and sew an 8cm dart into the seam corners, which pushes the body out into a box shape (4cm on each hull at the seam)
- This avoids the need for a separate gusset strip

However, for a more professional finish, I'll include the gusset strip in the pattern.

**TRULY FINAL PLAN:**

Let me write this as follows:

Main sections to design and write:
1. **Main Hull** (top piece): Shaped flat piece in green
2. **Main Hull** (bottom piece): Same shape with pod bay opening
3. **Pod Bay Gusset**: A strip that runs around JUST the edges of the body (sides) to create depth - this will be worked AFTER the two hulls are done by picking up stitches
4. **Wings** (make 2): Flat pieces in green, worked as trapezoids
5. **Vertical Tail Fins** (make 2): Flat pieces  
6. **Engine Nacelles** (make 2): Small oval tubes
7. **Pod**: Rectangular box with pod bay attachment

Actually wait - for the gusset pickup method: I pick up along the long side of the TOP hull, work 16 sts deep (8cm), then seam to the BOTTOM hull. This is quite do-able.

No wait - I need to think about how the gusset integrates with the pod bay opening in the bottom hull.

The pod bay is IN the bottom hull. The gusset strip runs around the OUTSIDE perimeter (sides) of the body. The pod bay is on the UNDERSIDE. These don't conflict - the gusset runs around the side edges, while the pod bay is a hole in the middle of the bottom hull piece.

BUT... wait. If the body is 8cm deep (top to bottom), and the pod sits IN the undercarriage, where does the pod go? 

On the real TB2, the pod sits BELOW the main fuselage in a recessed bay. So the pod hangs DOWN from the fuselage belly. The pod bay is an opening in the bottom hull, and the pod hangs below.

For a softie: the pod bay opening in the bottom hull should be reinforced/bordered (I'll pick up stitches around it and work a short border), and the pod should have a way to attach (velcro).

**OK. I have a solid plan now. Let me also think about the wings and engines:**

**Wings** (TB2's distinctive swept wings):
- TB2 has short, wide wings that are part of the lower fuselage
- They sweep back at about 30-40 degrees
- Cross-section is flat/thin

Wing construction (each wing = 2 pieces sewn together):
- Wing root (at body): 14cm long = 39 sts (call it 40 sts)
- Wing tip: 6cm = 12 sts  
- Wing span (from body side to tip): 12cm = 34 rows
- Front edge: angled (swept back)
- The sweep means the front edge is at an angle

For simplicity, I'll work each wing piece as follows:
- Cast on 6 sts at tip
- Work straight for a few rows
- Increase toward root over the span
- The cast-off edge at root is 40 sts

Actually, let me work wing from ROOT to TIP:
- CO 40 sts
- Work with decrease at FRONT EDGE (for sweep) and maintain REAR EDGE straight
- Actually both edges decrease, front faster

Hmm, let me think about this more carefully for a realistic TB2 wing shape. 

TB2 wing (viewed from above, right wing):
- The wing appears to be roughly a parallelogram/swept shape
- Root (joins body): front corner at point A, rear corner at point B
- Tip: front corner at point C, rear corner at point D
- AB = 14cm (root chord)
- CD = 6cm (tip chord)  
- Span: 12cm

For a knitted wing, I'll work from root to tip (CO at root, BO at tip):
- CO 40 sts (root, 14cm+... wait, 14cm = 28 sts at 2sts/cm, not 40)

Let me recalculate:
- 20 sts / 10cm = 2 sts/cm
- Root 14cm = 28 sts
- Tip 6cm = 12 sts
- Span 12cm = 12cm × 2.8 rows/cm = 33.6 rows ≈ 34 rows

Working root to tip:
- CO 28 sts
- Dec: 28 → 12 = 16 sts to lose = 8 each side over 34 rows
- Dec each side every 4th row: 8 × 4 = 32 rows, then 2 more rows = 34 rows
- Check: 28 - 16 = 12 sts ✓

But this gives a symmetric taper, not a swept shape. For the swept shape:
- One edge (REAR edge) decreases slowly
- Front edge decreases faster (more aggressive sweep)

Let me try:
- CO 28 sts
- Front edge: dec every other row for 16 rows = 8 decreases (too many for one side)
- Actually: front edge dec 12, rear edge dec 4... 
- (12+4)/2... no that's mixed up.

Let me just use a simple trapezoidal wing for clarity. The sweep can be achieved by having both edges taper but with an additional internal shaping note.

Or I could work the wing at an angle by slipping the first stitch and decreasing asymmetrically.

For the pattern, I'll keep the wings as simple trapezoidal shaped flat pieces (worked as two identical pieces, sewn together with a small amount of stuffing). The angled/swept appearance can come from how they're positioned when sewn to the body.

**Vertical Tail Fins:**
- Make 2
- Height: 7cm = 20 rows
- Base width: 6cm = 12 sts
- Top width: 2cm = 4 sts
- Work as flat triangular pieces (2 pieces per fin, sewn together)

**Engine Nacelles:**
TB2 has two prominent engine pods on the dorsal (top) surface, positioned between the nose and wings.
- Each nacelle: 8cm long × 4cm wide × 3cm tall
- Work as small ovals/tubes, stuffed

For the nacelle, work as a small oval:
- Cast on 8 sts
- Work in st st for 22 rows (8cm)
- Cast off 8 sts
- Make 2 pieces per nacelle, seam together with stuffing
- Dimensions: 8cm long × (4cm × 3cm) oval cross-section

For simplicity: work as a small oval with provisional cast-on:
- CO 4 sts (short end, 2cm)
- Work until 8cm long (22 rows)  
- BO
- Seam the two long sides creating a tube, stuff, close ends

Actually, for the nacelle I'll do a simpler construction:
- CO 16 sts (for oval circumference: 2×(4+3) ≈ 14cm circumference ≈ 28 sts... let me recalculate)
- Oval circumference: 2 × (length + height) approximately = 2 × (4+3) = 14cm = 28 sts
- Work in the round (or flat seamed) for 8cm = 22 rows
- Shape ends with decreases

Hmm, let me keep this simple for a softie. I'll work each nacelle as:
- Flat piece: CO 16 sts (8cm wide = 16 sts, checking: 16 sts / 2 sts per cm = 8cm ✓)
- Work 22 rows (8cm long)
- Shape top with decreases to create dome
- Make 2 pieces per nacelle, seam together with stuffing inside

This gives a pillow-shaped nacelle. Two per aircraft.

**Pod:**
TB2's pod is a large green rectangular container:
- Finished size: 14cm long × 9cm wide × 5cm tall
- At gauge: 14cm = 28 sts (2 sts/cm), 9cm = 18 sts, 5cm = 14 rows (5 × 2.8 = 14 rows)

Pod construction: Work as a box, worked in the round (like a small bag):
- Cast on for base using Judy's Magic Cast-on or a provisional CO:
  - Base = 28 sts × 18 sts rectangle
  - CO: using loop cast-on method or long-tail: CO for base perimeter divided approach
  
For a simple approach: work as 6 flat pieces (box):
- 2 large faces: 28 sts × 14 rows (each)
- 2 small faces (ends): 18 sts × 14 rows (each)
- 2 large faces (14cm × 9cm): same as the large faces
- Wait, that's actually: top and bottom (28 × 18), two long sides (28 × 14), two short ends (18 × 14)

Total pieces for pod: 6 flat pieces
OR: Work as a tube with closed ends

For the pod, I'll work flat as:
- Two long sides: 28 sts × 14 rows
- Two short ends: 18 sts × 14 rows  
- One top: 28 sts × 18 sts (worked in rows)
- One bottom: 28 sts × 18 sts (worked in rows)
Seam together like a box, stuff, close.

Or simpler: work the four sides as a long strip (2 × 28 + 2 × 18 sts = 56 + 36 = 92 sts around), work 14 rows, then add top and bottom.

In the round: CO 92 sts, work 14 rows in st st, BO.
Then: knit two rectangles (28 sts × 18 rows for top and bottom), seam in.

This might not lie flat well without firm support. For a softie pod, I'll add a cardboard insert (optional) or just stuff it firmly.

**Attachment system for pod:**
- Velcro squares or strip sewn to the top face of the pod (facing up into the pod bay)
- Corresponding velcro sewn inside the pod bay on the bottom hull

OR: Simple button and loop:
- 2 buttons sewn inside the pod bay
- 2 button loops on the pod

I'll go with velcro for safety with toys.

**Now let me also think about the pod bay BORDER:**
After constructing the bottom hull with the pod bay opening, I'll pick up stitches around the pod bay opening and work a few rows (2-3 rows) of garter stitch to create a neat border/lip for the pod to rest against.

**Now let me also SIMPLIFY the gusset question:**

For the main body construction, I'll use this approach:
- Top hull and bottom hull are worked as flat pieces
- They are seamed together around the outer edges
- The body's thickness/depth is achieved by working a SIDE STRIP (gusset)
- The side strip is 16 sts wide (= 8cm depth)
- It runs around the perimeter, sewn between top and bottom hulls

For the gusset length, I'll specify: "approximately 115cm (45")". The knitter will work the strip until it matches the hull perimeter, then seam it in.

Perimeter estimate:
- Two long sides: ~18cm each = 36cm
- Nose curve: ~28cm (semi-ellipse perimeter with half-axes 11cm and 4cm)
- Tail end: ~20cm (tapered section)
- Total ≈ 84cm... 

Let me recalculate. The hull piece total rows = 100 rows = 35.7cm long. Maximum width = 22cm.

The perimeter of an ellipse with semi-major axis a = 17.85cm (half length), semi-minor axis b = 11cm (half width):
Using Ramanujan's approximation: π × [3(a+b) - √((3a+b)(a+3b))]
= π × [3(17.85+11) - √((3×17.85+11)(17.85+3×11))]
= π × [3(28.85) - √((53.55+11)(17.85+33))]
= π × [86.55 - √(64.55 × 50.85)]
= π × [86.55 - √3282.5]
= π × [86.55 - 57.29]
= π × 29.26
= 91.9cm ≈ 92cm

This is the perimeter of the full ellipse-like shape. So the gusset strip needs to be about 92cm long.

At 2.8 rows/cm: 92 × 2.8 = 258 rows. That's a lot of rows for a strip but manageable.
Or the knitter can work it until it fits.

Actually, I realize I've been over-thinking this. Let me just specify it as:
"Work until strip measures 95cm (37½") when slightly stretched"

And since the gusset strip is 16 sts wide in stockinette, it will naturally be fairly elastic.

---

Now let me also address the COLOUR:

TB2 is a very specific jade/teal green. I'll specify a yarn in that colour. 

Also needed: cockpit (dark grey/dark green for the cockpit windows), some grey for detail accents.

**Colours:**
- MC (Main Colour): Jade green worsted
- CC1: Dark charcoal grey (cockpit windows)
- CC2: Silver-grey (optional details - jets, etc.)
- Some black and grey for details

**Additional features for authenticity:**

- Cockpit: The nose section has a downward-sloping cockpit with windows. I'll work this as duplicate stitch/embroidery, or as a small raised piece.
- Red IR logo: Small red embroidery on the nose or wing
- Black IR stripe: Decorative stripe

For a knitted softie, I'll include:
- Cockpit windows: Duplicate stitch in dark charcoal on the top hull nose section
- IR roundels/markings: Optional embroidery

**Let me now compile all the maths for the pattern:**

GAUGE: 20 sts × 28 rows = 10cm in st st on 4mm needles
1cm = 2 sts (width)
1cm = 2.8 rows (height) ≈ 3 rows per cm

---

**TOP HULL PIECE:**

CO 4 sts.

**Nose section (22 rows):**
- Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (6 sts)
- Row 2 (WS): Kfb, p to last st, kfb. (8 sts)
- Continue inc each end every row until there are 44 sts.
  - Starting from 4 sts, we need to reach 44 sts = 40 sts added = 20 inc rows
  - But we inc each end each row: Row 1 = 6, Row 2 = 8, ... Row 20 = 4 + 40 = 44 sts ✓
  - Then rows 21-22: Work 2 rows straight. ✓

Wait, let me be more precise. Each row, we increase 2 sts (one at each end). Starting at 4 sts:
- After row 1: 6 sts
- After row 2: 8 sts
- ...
- After row 20: 4 + (20×2) = 4 + 40 = 44 sts ✓

Then work rows 21-22 straight.

Total: 22 rows ✓

**Mid section (50 rows):**
- Work straight in st st for 50 rows.
- 44 sts throughout ✓

**Tail section (28 rows):**
- Decrease each end on RS rows only:
- RS row: Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (2 sts dec per row)
- WS rows: purl straight
- 14 RS rows × 2 dec = 28 sts decreased
- 44 - 28 = 16 sts ✓
- 14 RS rows + 14 WS rows = 28 rows ✓

Cast off remaining 16 sts.

Total rows: 22 + 50 + 28 = 100 rows ✓
Total length: 100/2.8 = 35.7cm ≈ 36cm ✓

---

**BOTTOM HULL PIECE:**

Same as top hull EXCEPT for the pod bay opening:

Pod bay: 
- Located in the mid section (rows 23-72)
- Pod bay length in rows: 40 rows (rows 28-67 of the overall piece, OR within rows 3-50 of the mid-section)

Wait let me re-count. The mid section starts at row 23 (after 22 nose rows). The pod bay will start at row 28 of the overall piece (row 6 of the mid-section, allowing 5 rows of flat work before the opening). The pod bay runs for 40 rows, ending at row 67 of the overall piece (row 45 of the mid-section). Then we work rows 68-72 flat (5 more rows to complete mid section). Then the tail section rows 73-100.

Pod bay opening: 18 sts (9cm = 18 sts ✓) wide, centered in 44 sts.
- Each side: (44 - 18)/2 = 13 sts ✓

During pod bay rows (rows 28-67 of bottom hull piece):
- Work 13 sts, then for the next 18 sts use a separate method:
  - Cast off 18 sts and work remaining 13 sts (creating two separate strips)
  - Then work two 13-st strips separately for 40 rows
  - Rejoin: cast on 18 sts over the gap, continue as one piece

**Corrected BOTTOM HULL:**

- Work as top hull through row 27 (all 44 sts, in st st)
- Row 28 (RS): k13, cast off 18 sts, k to end (13 sts each side)
- Work left strip (13 sts, continuing from right side of needle): 
  - Work in st st for 39 more rows (rows 29-67)
  - Do not cut yarn
- Rejoin yarn to right strip (13 sts at nose end):
  - Work in st st for 40 rows (rows 28-67)
  - At end of row 67: cast on 18 sts, then work across right strip
- Row 68 (continue): k13, [18 cast-on sts], k13 = 44 sts ✓
- Continue as top hull through remaining rows

Hmm, this is a bit confusing in the writing. Let me restructure:

Bottom Hull Construction:
- Work exactly as Top Hull for rows 1-27 (nose section + first 5 rows of mid section)
- Divide for pod bay:
  - Next row (RS, Row 28): k13, cast off 18 sts, k13
  - Now working two strips of 13 sts each

Work the two 13-st strips separately. Start with the right-hand strip (closest to tail end of body when oriented correctly):
- Work straight in st st for 39 rows (rows 29-67)
- Leave sts on a holder

Rejoin yarn to left strip (13 sts):
- Work 40 rows in st st (rows 28-67, starting from the cast-off row)

Wait, this is getting confusing with row numbers when working two pieces simultaneously. Let me simplify for the pattern writing:

"Work both strips separately for 40 rows total."

Then rejoin:
- With RS facing, work across left strip (13 sts), cast on 18 sts over gap, work across right strip (13 sts) = 44 sts ✓
- Continue as top hull for remaining rows

Pod bay dimensions: 40 rows / 2.8 = 14.3cm ≈ 14cm long ✓ 
Pod bay width: 18 sts / 2 = 9cm ✓

That works!

---

**SIDE GUSSET STRIP:**

CO 16 sts.
Work in st st until strip measures 92cm (36") from CO edge.
Cast off.

This strip will be seamed between the top and bottom hull pieces around the perimeter.
Width = 16 sts = 8cm ✓ (body depth)

OR: I could pick up the stitches around the TOP hull and work the gusset strip by picking up and working perpendicular. This would be more advanced but cleaner.

For clarity in pattern writing, I'll use the separate strip method.

---

**WINGS (make 2):**

Each wing = 2 identical pieces (sewn together with light stuffing).

Wing measurements:
- Root (at body): 14cm wide = 28 sts
- Tip: 6cm wide = 12 sts
- Span: 12cm = 34 rows

CO 28 sts.
Decrease to 12 sts over 34 rows:
- Decrease of 16 sts = 8 each side
- Dec each end every 4th row:
  - Dec 8 times × 4 rows = 32 rows
  - Work 2 more rows straight = 34 total
  - 28 - 16 = 12 sts ✓

Wait: dec every 4th row = dec rows are rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32 = 8 dec rows × 2 sts = 16 sts reduced ✓
After row 32: 28 - 16 = 12 sts ✓
Rows 33-34: work straight ✓
Total: 34 rows ✓

Cast off 12 sts.

Make 2 of this shape for each wing (4 pieces total).

For swept appearance: When seaming to body, angle the root edge forward by 2cm, creating the swept-back effect.

---

**VERTICAL TAIL FINS (make 2):**

Each fin = 2 pieces sewn together (no stuffing, or very thin stuffing).

Fin measurements:
- Base: 6cm = 12 sts
- Height: 7cm = 20 rows
- Top: 2cm = 4 sts

CO 12 sts.
Decrease:
- 12 → 4 = 8 sts reduced = 4 each side over 20 rows
- Dec each side every 5th row: 4 × 5 = 20 rows ✓
- Row 5, 10, 15, 20: dec each end = 4 dec events × 2 sts = 8 sts total ✓
- 12 - 8 = 4 sts ✓

Final 4 sts: k2tog, k2tog = 2 sts, then draw through. Or just cast off 4 sts.

Hmm, the last row might not need special treatment. Let me just say: dec each end on rows 5, 10, 15, 20. Work rows 1-20. At row 20, cast off remaining 4 sts. ✓

Each fin requires 2 pieces → 4 pieces total. Seam the pairs together with a thin layer of stuffing or just WS together.

Actually for fins, I'll work them as double-knit or I'll just seam two identical pieces. For simplicity: knit 4 identical triangular pieces, seam in pairs.

---

**ENGINE NACELLES (make 2, each requires 2 pieces):**

Each nacelle = 2 identical flat ovals, seamed together with stuffing.

Nacelle measurements:
- Length: 8cm = 22 sts (worked lengthwise)
- Width: 4cm = 8 rows (worked widthwise - this will be wrong if using rows for width)

Actually, let me work the nacelle differently:

Work nacelle flat:
- CO 4 sts (short end)
- Row 1: kfb, k2, kfb (6 sts)
- Row 2: purl
- Row 3: kfb, k4, kfb (8 sts)
- Row 4: purl
- Work in st st on 8 sts for 16 rows (to make total length)
- Row 21: k2tog, k4, k2tog (6 sts)
- Row 22: purl
- Row 23: k2tog, k2, k2tog (4 sts)
- Row 24: purl
- Row 25: k2tog twice (2 sts)
- Cast off

Hmm, let me rethink. Each "piece" of the nacelle should be:
- 8cm long (along the body) = 22 rows worked sideways
- 4cm wide (perpendicular to body axis) = 8 sts

So:
- CO 4 sts
- Inc to 8 sts over 2 rows (or cast on 8 sts directly)

Let me do it differently. Each nacelle piece:
- CO 8 sts
- Work in st st for 22 rows (8cm)
- Cast off

No shaping - just a rectangle. Two rectangles per nacelle. When seamed at long edges, they form a pillow-like shape. The short ends will be seamed/gathered.

Dimensions: 8 sts wide, 22 rows long.
Width: 8/2 = 4cm ✓
Length: 22/2.8 = 7.9cm ≈ 8cm ✓

Make 4 pieces (2 per nacelle). Seam at long edges, gather short ends, stuff.

---

**POD:**

Pod measurements: 14cm × 9cm × 5cm
At gauge:
- 14cm long = 28 sts
- 9cm wide = 18 sts
- 5cm deep = 14 rows (5 × 2.8 = 14 ✓)

Construction method: Work 6 panels:
1. **Top/Bottom panels** (×2): CO 28 sts, work 26 rows (9cm: 18 sts... wait)

Let me recalculate. The pod is 14cm long × 9cm wide (top/bottom face).

In sts: 14cm × 2 sts/cm = 28 sts wide, 9cm × 2.8 rows/cm = 25.2 rows ≈ 26 rows tall.

So top/bottom panel: 28 sts, 26 rows = 14cm × 9cm ✓

Side panels (long sides, ×2): 28 sts wide, 14 rows tall = 14cm × 5cm ✓
End panels (short ends, ×2): 18 sts wide, 14 rows tall = 9cm × 5cm ✓

Wait: end panels should be 9cm wide. 9cm × 2 sts/cm = 18 sts ✓. 5cm × 2.8 = 14 rows ✓.

Total panel pieces: 6 panels.

For ease of construction, I'll suggest a modified approach:
- Work the four side walls as one long strip (tube):
  - CO: 2(28+18) = 2(46) = 92 sts
  - Work in the round for 14 rows
  - Cast off
  - Then add top and bottom panels

Actually, working in rows and seaming at one corner is easier to manage.

Side walls as one strip:
- CO 18 sts (short end)
- Work 14 rows → end cap piece 1 (18 × 14)
- CO more sts? No...

Let me just write it as the one-piece strip method:
- CO 92 sts (total perimeter: 2(28+18) = 92 sts)
- Join to work in the round
- Work 14 rows in st st in the round
- Cast off
- This makes the four sides
- Make 2 rectangular panels (28 sts × 26 rows) for top and bottom
- Seam top and bottom to the tube

Check: tube circumference = 92 sts. 92/2 = 46cm around. 2(14+9) = 46cm ✓
Tube height = 14 rows = 5cm ✓
Top/bottom: 28 sts (14cm) × 26 rows (9cm) ✓

But working in the round with 92 sts at 20 sts/10cm means a tube about 46cm circumference, which is very large for "in the round" on regular needles. I'd need to use a 40cm or longer circular needle. That's fine for advanced knitters.

---

**POD BAY BORDER:**

After assembling the body, pick up stitches around the pod bay opening and work a garter stitch border:
- Pick up approx 1 st per stitch and 3 sts per 4 rows around the opening
- The opening is 18 sts × 40 rows
- Pick up: 18 sts + 28 sts (rows side) + 18 sts + 28 sts (rows side) = 92 sts
- Work 4 rows garter stitch
- Cast off

This creates a neat edge and slightly reduces the opening for better pod fit.

Wait, pick up around the sides of the opening:
- Two long sides (40 rows each): 3 sts per 4 rows = 30 sts each side
- Two short sides (18 sts each): 18 sts each
- Total: 2(30) + 2(18) = 60 + 36 = 96 sts

Work 4 rows garter, cast off. The border creates a 4-row collar around the pod bay.

---

**COCKPIT:**

The TB2 cockpit is a narrow, elongated windscreen on the nose.

I'll create this as:
- A flat panel worked in dark grey
- Stitched onto the nose of the top hull
- Approximately 8cm × 2cm = 16 sts × 6 rows

Actually, let me add this as duplicate stitch/embroidery on the top hull piece before assembling.

Cockpit placement: approximately 3cm back from the nose tip, extending for 8cm.
In sts: starts at row 8 of the piece (3cm from start), extends for 22 sts wide at that point.

I'll provide a simple chart or describe it as: work 6 rows of duplicate stitch in dark grey across the top of the nose section, approximately centered, forming a cockpit window shape.

---

**YARN REQUIREMENTS:**

Let me estimate yarn needed:
- Top hull: 100 rows × 44 sts average ≈ 4400 sts
- Bottom hull: same ≈ 4400 sts  
- Side gusset: 16 sts × 258 rows (92cm × 2.8 rows/cm) ≈ 4128 sts
- Wings (4 pieces): 34 rows × 20 sts average × 4 ≈ 2720 sts
- Tail fins (4 pieces): 20 rows × 8 sts average × 4 ≈ 640 sts
- Nacelle pieces (4): 22 rows × 8 sts × 4 ≈ 704 sts
- Pod tube: 14 rows × 92 sts = 1288 sts
- Pod top/bottom: 2 × (26 rows × 28 sts) = 1456 sts
- Pod bay border: 4 rows × 96 sts = 384 sts
- Misc: ~500 sts

Total: ~20,620 sts

Each stitch uses about 0.75cm of yarn (rough estimate for worsted at 20 sts/10cm):
At gauge, 1 metre of yarn = 100cm / 0.75cm × 2.8 rows... 

Let me use a different method. For worsted weight at gauge:
- Typically ~50g = ~100m of worsted
- A 44-st wide piece for 28 rows (10cm) uses approximately... 
- At 44 sts × 28 rows = 1232 sts per 10cm square (10×10cm)
- In worsted, each row of 44 sts uses approximately 44 × 1.5cm = 66cm = 0.66m per row
- 28 rows × 0.66m ≈ 18.5m per 10cm square section

Total area of MC fabric (approximate):
- Body top: 36cm × 22cm average ≈ 792 cm² (I'll treat as 36×12cm average due to taper = 432 cm²... this is getting complicated)

Let me just estimate based on finished weight:
- Stuffed softie this size typically uses 200-250g of yarn
- Main craft yarn at 100m/50g = 200-250m for 200g... actually let me look at yarn labels
- Typical worsted: 200m/100g or 100m/50g
- I'd estimate: 400m (4 × 100m skeins / 4 × 50g balls) for main colour

More generous estimate for all parts:
- MC (jade green): 550m (approximately 275g / 5-6 × 50g balls)
- CC1 (dark grey): 20m (small amount)

This seems reasonable. I'll specify 550m MC and 25m CC1.

---

**NEEDLES:**
- 4mm straight needles (or circular) for flat pieces
- 4mm, 40cm circular needle for pod (working in the round with 92 sts)
- 4mm, 20cm circular needles or DPNs for small nacelles

**NOTIONS:**
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Polyfill stuffing (approx 200g)
- Velcro strip (20cm) for pod attachment
- Black embroidery thread for details
- Small piece of cardboard (optional, for pod rigidity)
- Row counter
- Sewing pins

---

**ABBREVIATIONS:**
- CO: cast on
- BO/Cast off: bind off / cast off
- k: knit
- p: purl
- kfb: knit into front and back (increase)
- k2tog: knit 2 together (decrease)
- ssk: slip, slip, knit (decrease)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- st st: stocking stitch
- rem: remaining
- approx: approximately
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- MC: main colour
- CC1: contrast colour 1
- rep: repeat
- inc: increase
- dec: decrease

---

**GAUGE (TENSION):**
20 sts × 28 rows = 10cm (4") square in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.
Tension is important for finished size but small variations won't affect the softie's appearance significantly.

---

Now let me also think about the assembly order:

1. Knit all pieces
2. Add cockpit embroidery to top hull
3. Seam side gusset strip to top hull perimeter
4. Seam bottom hull to other side of gusset strip (leaving tail end open for stuffing)
5. Stuff body firmly
6. Close tail seam
7. Work pod bay border
8. Attach wings to body sides (position so they're in the lower-middle of the body depth)
9. Attach tail fins vertically to tail end of body
10. Stuff and seam nacelles, attach to top hull
11. Assemble pod, sew velcro to pod top
12. Sew velcro inside pod bay

---

Let me now think about some corrections/refinements:

1. The gusset strip: 16 sts wide (= 8cm). But 8cm seems quite thick for a relatively small softie. TB2 IS quite deep/boxy looking, so this might be right. Alternatively, use 12 sts (= 6cm). Let me keep 8cm as the total depth seems right for a 36cm long aircraft.

2. The wings: they should attach at the LOWER part of the body (at the junction of the gusset strip and the bottom hull, roughly), spreading out horizontally from the widest part of the fuselage.

3. The tail fins: vertical fins at the rear of the top hull, angled slightly. They should be attached to the dorsal surface near the tail.

Actually, looking at TB2 more carefully:
- The tail fins are more like a twin-boom tail configuration OR they're the main vertical stabilisers on the rear of the fuselage
- TB2 has two vertical stabilisers at the rear corners of the fuselage

I'll place the tail fins at the rear corners of the body (on the top surface).

4. Engines on top: TB2 has prominent engine pods. I've designed nacelles for these. They sit on the dorsal (top) surface, roughly between the wings and the nose section.

5. The pod: On the real TB2, the pod hangs below the belly of the fuselage. For the softie, the pod sits in the pod bay on the underside, attached with velcro, and can be removed.

Let me also think about the head/cockpit section of TB2. The nose slopes DOWN and has a blunt, rounded front face with the cockpit windows. On my flat construction, the nose is just the tapered end of the hull pieces. For the cockpit windows, I'll add embroidery.

---

**ONE FINAL REVIEW OF THE MATH:**

TOP HULL:
- CO 4 sts
- Rows 1-20: inc each end every row → adds 2 sts/row × 20 rows = 40 sts → 4 + 40 = 44 sts ✓
- Rows 21-22: 2 rows straight (44 sts) ✓
- Rows 23-72: 50 rows straight (44 sts) ✓
- Rows 73-100: dec each end on RS rows only (28 rows, 14 RS rows, 14 dec rows × 2 = 28 sts lost)
  - 44 - 28 = 16 sts ✓
- Cast off 16 sts ✓

BOTTOM HULL:
- Same as top hull, rows 1-27 (44 sts)
- Rows 28-67 (40 rows): work two strips of 13 sts separately (pod bay open in middle 18 sts)
  - 13 + 18 + 13 = 44 ✓
- Row 68: cast on 18 sts over gap, rejoin = 44 sts ✓
- Continue as top hull rows 73-100
  Wait: the pod bay ends at row 67. Then rows 68-72 are in the mid section (5 more rows), then rows