purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**: An oversized cardigan wrap sweater is a relaxed, draped garment that crosses over at the front like a wrap dress but functions as a cardigan/sweater. Key design elements: (a) oversized silhouette, (b) wrap-style front closure (no buttons needed, or optional belt/tie), (c) long sleeves, (d) cozy worsted weight yarn, (e) advanced difficulty warrants interesting stitch texture. I'll use a combination of back post/front post stitches and a textured shell or basketweave panel to elevate the difficulty. Construction: top-down raglan is ideal for oversized cardigans — it allows easy fit adjustment, minimal seaming, and works beautifully for wraps. However, for a true wrap cardigan with deep V front, a top-down yoke with split fronts is better. I'll use a top-down construction with a center-back starting point, working outward, creating the yoke, body, and sleeves separately. Actually, let me reconsider: for a wrap sweater specifically, a seamed construction (worked flat in pieces: back, two fronts, sleeves) is actually more reliable for shaping the deep wrap front — but advanced crocheters often prefer seamless. I'll go with a top-down seamless raglan approach with modifications for the wrap front: starting at the back neck, picking up for front panels separately, which gives the deep V. Let me plan a top-down raglan that works the back and fronts simultaneously with raglan increases, maintaining an open front for the wrap style.

Actually, the cleanest approach for a wrap cardigan: work the BACK piece flat, work TWO FRONT pieces flat (extended to wrap across), work SLEEVES in the round, then seam. This is the most shape-accurate approach. But for advanced level, let me do top-down seamless raglan with front opening.

**Final Construction Decision**: Top-down seamless raglan, worked flat (open for cardigan front). Start with a foundation chain across the back neck + raglan markers + front sections. Work down in rows, increasing at 4 raglan points. Separate sleeves from body at underarm, work body to hem, pick up sleeves and work in rounds to cuffs. The wrap effect is created by extra-long front panels that cross and tie.

**Stitch Choice**: I'll use a combination of half double crochet (body base), with a textured crossed double crochet stitch for visual interest, and post stitch ribbing for cuffs, hem, and neckband. This is appropriate for advanced level.

Actually, let me keep it elegant: main stitch = extended single crochet (esc) or a simple but beautiful "Linen Stitch" variation... No, for worsted oversized cozy cardigan let me use: 
- Main body: Half Double Crochet (hdc) — creates a dense, drapey fabric
- Texture panels: Front Post and Back Post stitches for a subtle vertical texture (mock cable or basketweave effect)
- Ribbing: BLO sc for cuffs and hem band
- Or: Main body in simple dc with a traveling cable/basketweave for the advanced element

Let me simplify to ensure mathematical accuracy: **Main stitch: dc** (easy to count), **Texture: alternating FPdc/BPdc columns** creating a basketweave panel up the back center, **Ribbing: sc BLO** for bands.

2. **Construction Plan**: 
- Top-down, worked flat (open at front = cardigan)
- Foundation row across back neck + 4 raglan increase points + two front sections
- Raglan increases every RS row (8 increases per row, 2 at each raglan seam)
- At underarm: separate sleeves, join body, continue body to desired length
- Work sleeves in the round from underarm down to cuff
- Front bands picked up and worked in sc BLO
- Tie belt/sash worked separately

**Sizing**: I'll provide 4 sizes: S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X — as oversized, each covers 2 standard sizes
- Finished bust (with lots of positive ease, 8-12" of ease for oversized):
  - S/M: fits 30-38" bust → finished: 48" 
  - L/XL: fits 38-46" bust → finished: 58"
  - 2X/3X: fits 46-54" bust → finished: 68"
  - 4X/5X: fits 54-62" bust → finished: 78"

3. **Quality Assurance**: 
- Raglan math must work out: each size needs different starting chain and different number of raglan rows
- Sleeve separation must happen at same row relative to raglan depth
- Stitch counts at every row
- Wrap front panels must be long enough to cross — add extra stitches to front sections
- Turning chains: ch 3 = first dc (count as dc), ch 1 = does not count as stitch
- Need to be very careful about the top-down raglan math

4. **Final Calculations**:

**Gauge**: 14 dc + 8 rows = 4" (10 cm) in dc with size US J/6.0mm hook (worsted yarn, slightly loose for drape)
- So: 3.5 dc per inch, 2 rows per inch

**Size S/M: Finished Bust = 48"**
- Stitches needed for full bust circumference: 48" × 3.5 st/in = 168 sts total
- This is for a flat piece (front + back), so half = 84 sts across back... wait, for a cardigan worked flat top-down:
  - Back width = ~24" → 24 × 3.5 = 84 sts
  - Each front = ~12" + extra wrap width ~6" = 18" → 18 × 3.5 = 63 sts each front
  - Total across body at underarm: 84 (back) + 63 + 63 (fronts) + some for raglan panels = ~210+ sts
  
Wait, let me restructure this. For a top-down raglan flat construction, the initial chain represents:
- Left front neck stitches + left raglan stitches + back neck stitches + right raglan stitches + right front neck stitches

Let me define:
- Back neck width: ~7" for all sizes → 7 × 3.5 = ~24-25 sts → 24 sts
- Each raglan section: 2 sts (the seam stitches)
- Each front neck: ~3" → 3 × 3.5 = ~10 sts → 10 sts each

Starting row: 10 (L front) + 2 (raglan) + 24 (back) + 2 (raglan) + 10 (R front) = 48 sts

**Raglan Increases**: Each right-side (odd) row, increase 1 st on each side of each raglan marker = 8 sts increased per row (4 markers × 2 increases)

After 'n' raglan rows (RS rows only, so every other row):
- Back sts: 24 + 2n
- Each front: 10 + n  
- Each raglan: 2 sts (maintained as 2 throughout, or grows by 1 each side = so actually raglan marker itself stays 2, increases happen adjacent)

Wait, let me be more precise about raglan increases:
- Method: At each raglan marker, work 1 dc before marker, dc in marker sts (2), 1 dc after marker
- So each raglan increase row adds 2 sts to back (1 each side) and 2 sts total to fronts (1 to each front on their respective raglan side) and 1 st at each outer front edge
- Actually for wrap cardigan, we also increase at the front outer edges (or not — fronts can be shaped with separate rows)

Let me simplify the raglan math: traditional raglan, working flat, RS rows only:
- Each RS row: +8 sts total (2 at each of 4 raglan points)
- After R raglan rows:
  - Back: 24 + 2R
  - Each front: 10 + R (only 1 raglan increase per front per row, other edge is front opening = no increase needed, or we can add shaping)
  - Each raglan panel: 2 sts (constant)

For S/M, I need the back to be 84 sts at underarm... wait, let me recalculate:
- Body half-width needed (back): 48" total / 2 = 24" back → 24 × 3.5 = 84 sts
- Back starts at 24 sts, needs to reach 84 sts: 84 - 24 = 60 additional sts needed, so 30 RS rows (R=30)
- 30 RS rows × 2 rows per row-pair = 60 total rows for yoke
- Yoke depth: 60 rows / 2 rows per inch = 30"... that's way too deep!

I need to reconsider my gauge or my approach. The issue is that 3.5 st/inch means I need many increase rows to get wide enough. Let me recalculate:

Typical raglan depth for a sweater: 8-10" 
At 2 rows/inch = 16-20 total rows = 8-10 RS rows
In 10 RS rows: back gains 20 sts (2 per RS row)
Starting back: 24, ending back: 44 sts... but I need 84 for the back. 

The issue is that top-down raglan math for a very wide garment means you either start with more stitches OR work more raglan rows. For a very oversized sweater, the raglan depth is naturally deeper. Let me reconsider:

For oversized (48" finished, 8" ease minimum), typical back width = 24". This is wider than a fitted sweater, so more raglan increase rows are needed.

Let me try: raglan depth of 12" → 24 total rows → 12 RS rows
- Back gains: 24 sts → back at underarm: 24 + 24 = 48 sts... still not 84.

I'm confusing myself. Let me start over with correct proportions.

**Rethinking gauge and proportions:**

For a typical top-down raglan:
- You need to account for: back width, sleeve width, and raglan depth ALL being determined by the raglan rows

Let me work backward from desired finished measurements:
- S/M: Finished bust = 48", so half circumference (front+back in round) = 48"
- For a CARDIGAN (open front), the total at underarm = back + left front + right front
- Back = 24", Each front (including wrap extension) = ~20" (10" + 10" wrap)
- At underarm (before sleeve separation): back + fronts = 24 + 20 + 20 = 64" of stitches
- At 3.5 st/in: 64 × 3.5 = 224 sts

Sleeve width at underarm (bicep + ease): ~18" per sleeve = 18 × 3.5 = 63 sts per sleeve

Total stitches at underarm row (before separation): back + both sleeves + both fronts + raglan panels
= 84 (back, 24" × 3.5) + 63 (left sleeve) + 63 (right sleeve) + 70 (each front 20" × 3.5 = 70, × 2 = 140) + 8 (raglan panels, 2 each × 4)
= 84 + 63 + 63 + 140 + 8 = 358 sts

Starting stitches:
Back neck: 7" × 3.5 = 24.5 → 25 sts
Each sleeve at neck: ~2" × 3.5 = 7 sts
Each front neck: ~3" × 3.5 = 10.5 → 11 sts
Raglan panels: 2 sts each × 4 = 8 sts
Total start: 11 + 2 + 7 + 2 + 25 + 2 + 7 + 2 + 11 = 69 sts

Per RS row, 8 sts increased. 
Sts needed to gain: 358 - 69 = 289 sts
RS rows needed: 289 / 8 = 36.1 → too many!

The problem is clear: top-down raglan construction becomes unwieldy for very oversized garments because the sleeves and body are so wide. Let me reconsider the construction.

**Alternative Construction: Seamed Flat Pieces**
This is actually more appropriate for a wrap cardigan at this size. Work:
1. BACK: single flat panel
2. LEFT FRONT: flat panel with extended wrap section
3. RIGHT FRONT: flat panel with extended wrap section  
4. SLEEVES (2): worked in the round from cuff up (or top down)

This gives perfect control over shaping and is easier to calculate mathematically.

**Let me restart with SEAMED CONSTRUCTION:**

Gauge: 14 dc = 4" (3.5 dc/inch), 8 rows = 4" (2 rows/inch)

**Size S/M (fits bust 32-38", worn with ~10" positive ease):**
- Finished bust: 48" total → back = 24", each front = 12" + 6" wrap extension = 18"
- Total around (in use, closed): back 24 + front overlap = nice wrap effect
- Body length from underarm to hem: 24" (long cardigan)
- Sleeve length: 18" from underarm to cuff
- Sleeve width at upper arm: 18" → 9" radius (generous)
- Sleeve width at cuff (after tapering): 10"

**Size L/XL (fits bust 38-46", worn with ~12" positive ease):**
- Finished bust: 58" total → back = 29", each front = 15" + 7" wrap = 22"
- Body length: 25"
- Sleeve length: 18.5"
- Sleeve upper arm: 20"
- Sleeve cuff: 11"

**Size 2X/3X (fits bust 46-54", worn with ~14" positive ease):**  
- Finished bust: 68" total → back = 34", each front = 17" + 9" wrap = 26"
- Body length: 26"
- Sleeve upper arm: 22"
- Sleeve cuff: 12"

**Size 4X/5X (fits bust 54-62", worn with ~16" positive ease):**
- Finished bust: 78" total → back = 39", each front = 19.5" + 10.5" wrap = 30"
- Body length: 27"
- Sleeve upper arm: 24"
- Sleeve cuff: 13"

Now let me calculate stitch counts:

**GAUGE: 14 dc = 4" → 3.5 dc/inch; 8 rows dc = 4" → 2 rows/inch**

**BACK PANEL:**

| Size | Width | Sts | Length | Rows |
|------|-------|-----|--------|------|
| S/M | 24" | 24×3.5=84 sts | Body: 24" + 8" armhole depth = must think about this differently |

Wait — for flat seamed, I need to think about this as:
- Back height = armhole depth + body length = ~8" + 24" = 32" total
- Or I work the back as one flat piece from hem to shoulder

Let me define piece measurements:

**BACK:**
- Width: measured at widest point (hip) 
- Length: from hem to shoulder (including armhole)

For oversized wrap cardigan, shape:
- Start at hem with ribbing band
- Work straight up to armhole  
- Shape armhole (simple — just work straight for a deep armhole in oversized style, or do minimal shaping)
- Shape neck (shallow U shape or straight across for simplicity)
- Shape shoulders

Actually, for an oversized sweater, I can simplify: work the back as a simple rectangle (no armhole shaping — let the oversized fit handle it) with just neck shaping. This is common in oversized crochet sweaters.

**Simplified Construction: Drop-Shoulder Style**
- Back: rectangle with shallow neck shaping
- Fronts: rectangles with wrap extension and V-neck
- Sleeves: tapered rectangles, seamed at sides, set into dropped shoulder

This simplifies all the math dramatically and is still advanced due to stitch pattern, construction assembly, and the wrap design.

**DROP-SHOULDER OVERSIZED WRAP CARDIGAN:**

Let me define key measurements:

For all sizes, I'll define:
- Shoulder width (each front to each front shoulder seam): total back width
- Sleeve placement: drop-shoulder style — sleeve seam happens x inches down from shoulder on body

Let me now do the real math:

**GAUGE: 14 dc = 4" (3.5 dc/inch), 8 rows = 4" (2 rows/inch)**

**STITCH PATTERN: Main body in dc; Ch 3 at beginning of each row counts as first dc**
**RIBBING: BLO sc; Ch 1 at beginning of each row does NOT count as first sc**

---

**SIZE S/M:**
Back width: 24" → 24 × 3.5 = 84 sts → need multiple of stitch pattern repeat. If I use a textured stitch with 4-st repeat: 84 / 4 = 21 repeats. ✓ 84 sts works.
Back length (hem to shoulder): 30" → 30 × 2 = 60 rows of dc + ribbing rows

Wait — I want ribbing at hem (not counted in body length) and a ribbing band at bottom:
- Ribbing band: 2" → 2 × 2 rows/inch... but sc BLO works differently. Let me set sc BLO gauge separately.
- For sc BLO ribbing: ~16 sc = 4" (4 sc/inch); 20 rows = 4" (5 rows/inch) [ribbing compresses]
- Ribbing band: 2" tall → 10 rows of sc BLO

Actually, for the ribbing, I'll work it sideways (which is more traditional and stretchy):
- Ribbing worked sideways in sc BLO: 
  - Start with a chain of [ribbing height] sts, work sc BLO rows
  - Then work main body FROM the long edge of ribbing
  
Sideways ribbing gauge: width = 2" = [number of sc sts]; length = back width

Hmm, this gets complex. Let me simplify: I'll work the ribbing attached, worked normally (horizontally), with sc BLO. Or even simpler: start from ribbing at bottom, work up. Ribbing = first 2" of piece.

**Let me just calculate everything cleanly:**

For the main dc fabric:
- Gauge: 3.5 dc/in, 2 rows/in
- ALL measurements in inches, convert to stitches by multiplying by 3.5 for width, 2 for height

For the ribbing (sc BLO, worked in rows):
- Gauge: 4 sc/in width, 4 rows/in height (slightly looser for attachment, same hook)
- Ribbing height: 2.5" = 10 rows

**BACK (all sizes):**
Foundation: Work sc BLO ribbing for 2.5" height (10 rows of sc BLO)
Then work dc fabric from ribbing to shoulder.

I'll work the back as:
- Foundation chain = back width sts
- Ribbing rows (sc BLO)
- Then dc rows for body
- Neck shaping at top

**CRITICAL DECISION on stitch multiple:**
I want to use a textured stitch pattern for the body — let's use a simple but elegant **V-stitch variation** or **Shell/Lace** or **Basketweave**. 

For advanced level: I'll use **Offset Shell Stitch** which requires a specific multiple.
- Offset Shell: (dc, ch1, dc) = V-stitch spaced pattern
- Actually let me use **Basketweave** (alternating FPdc/BPdc in 4-st columns): multiple of 4+2

Or even better for an oversized cozy cardigan: **Extended DC / Moss Stitch variation** or a simple **2x2 BPdc/FPdc rib** worked in dc for the whole body.

Let me use: **Main Body in Basic DC with FPDC/BPDC texture panels** to add visual interest. Or just a clean dc.

For **ADVANCED difficulty**, I'll incorporate:
1. **Basketweave Stitch** (alternating FPdc/BPdc panels of 4 sts, alternated every 4 rows) for the main body
2. **Sc BLO ribbing** for bands
3. **Post-stitch cuffs**
4. **Construction**: seamed flat pieces, wrap front design
5. **Belt/sash** worked separately

Basketweave stitch multiple: multiple of 8 (4 sts FP + 4 sts BP) + 2 edge sts = multiple of 8 + 2. Let me verify: to work a basketweave, I need groups of 4. So (multiple of 8) + 2 for turning chain (but if ch3 = first dc, then +1 for foundation chain).

Actually let me define the basketweave stitch:
- Over any number of sts that's a multiple of 8 (for symmetry of blocks)
- Row 1 (RS): ch3 (= dc), dc in each st across
- Row 2 (WS): ch3, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts*, repeat, end dc in top of ch3
- Row 3: ch3, *FPdc in next 4, BPdc in next 4*, repeat, end dc
- Row 4: same as row 3
- Row 5: same as row 3  
- Row 6 (WS): ch3, *BPdc in next 4, FPdc in next 4*, repeat, end dc
- ... alternate every 4 rows

Wait, traditional basketweave:
- RS rows: FPdc over FPdc columns, BPdc over BPdc columns (OR just dc in dc for plain rows)
- Actually, standard basketweave alternates the DIRECTION of post stitches every set of rows

Let me define it properly:

**Basketweave Pattern** (multiple of 8 sts, + 2 for edge dc on each end):

Hmm, I need to decide: are the edge sts separate from the 8-st multiple? Let me say the total stitch count (not including turning chain) must be a multiple of 8 + 2 (the +2 are edge stitches).

So for 84 sts: 84 - 2 = 82... 82/8 = 10.25 — not a clean multiple.

Let me try: total sts = multiple of 8 + 2:
- 82 sts = 10×8 + 2 = 82 ✓ → but then with 2 edge sts: total = 82 + 2 = 84? 

I'm overcomplicating this. Let me decide:
- Total working stitches = a multiple of 8 (no separate edge sts — edge sts are included in the multiple OR I just work dc on edge sts)

For 84 sts: 84 / 8 = 10.5 — not a multiple!

Let me try different widths:
- 80 sts: 80/8 = 10 ✓ → width = 80/3.5 = 22.86" ≈ 22.9"
- 88 sts: 88/8 = 11 ✓ → width = 88/3.5 = 25.14" ≈ 25.1"

For S/M back: 22.9" or 25.1". Let me round the finished measurements:
S/M back: 88 sts = 25" wide (close enough to 24") ✓

Or I can change the stitch pattern multiple. Let me use a multiple of 6 instead:
- Multiple of 6:
  - 84/6 = 14 ✓ → 84 sts = 24" ✓ PERFECT

So I'll design the basketweave with 6-st blocks? Or I can use 4-st blocks and NOT require them to fit perfectly:
- 84 sts: 4-st blocks in middle, dc edges
- (84 - 4 edge sts) = 80 middle sts, 80/4 = 20 blocks of 4 ✓

Let me define: 2 dc edge sts each side + groups of 4 FPdc/BPdc = total = 4 + (n×4) = 4(n+1). 
For 84: 4(n+1)=84 → n+1=21 → n=20 blocks of 4 ✓

So: dc dc | [FPdc FPdc FPdc FPdc or BPdc BPdc BPdc BPdc] × 20 | dc dc

Hmm, but with 2 edge + 80 middle = 82 sts, not 84. Let me add 2 more:
- 2 edge + 80 middle + 2 edge = 84 ✓ (2 dc on each side)

Actually, let me just say: 
- Total sts = multiple of 4 + 4 (2 edge sts on each side) for basketweave middle
- For 84: 84 - 4 = 80, 80/4 = 20 ✓ → works!

Or most simply: the basketweave works over a multiple of 8 sts for symmetry (so the blocks alternate properly), and I'll adjust stitch counts to fit.

**FINAL DECISION: I'll use a multiple of 8 sts for the main body. Let me recalculate all piece widths:**

Multiple of 8 options:
- S/M: target 24" back → 84 sts ideal, nearest mult of 8: 80 sts (22.9") or 88 sts (25.1") → I'll use **80 sts** = 22.9" ≈ 23" back width
  - This gives finished bust: 23" (back) + 11.5" (each front, 23/2 = 11.5") + wraps = fine for oversized
  
Actually wait — I was planning fronts to be WIDER than back/2 because of the wrap extension. Let me redefine:

For a WRAP cardigan (non-buttoned, wraps across):
- Back width: X
- Each front width (worn closed): X/2 (like a normal cardigan)
- But for the WRAP effect, front pieces are LONGER extending past center front
- So total fabric for each front = X/2 + wrap extension (additional 4-6" that crosses to opposite side)
- The wrap extension doesn't need to match the basketweave exactly since it's the inner wrap

Hmm, I can simplify the fronts: just make the front panels WIDE (total width of ~15-16" for S/M) to allow crossing. The wrap happens naturally because the fronts are oversized and draped.

**OK, I need to commit to specific numbers and stop second-guessing. Here's my final plan:**

---

## FINAL CONSTRUCTION PLAN

**Stitch Pattern**: Basketweave (multiple of 8 + 2 selvage sts)
**Construction**: Seamed flat pieces (back, 2 fronts, 2 sleeves), drop shoulder
**Joining**: slip stitch seams on wrong side

**Gauge**: 
- Main fabric (dc): 14 dc = 4" → 3.5 dc/in; 8 rows = 4" → 2 rows/in
- Ribbing (sc BLO, sideways): 16 sts = 4" → 4 sc/in; this gives 4 sc per inch of ribbing height, 4 rows per inch  
  
For simplicity, I'll work ribbing DIRECTLY as foundation rows in sc BLO (horizontal ribbing), not sideways. The ribbing rows are worked with sc BLO and then dc body starts from there.

Actually for a more professional look, let me work **sideways ribbing separately** and then pick up stitches for the body. Or work a separate crochet rib band. 

You know what — final decision: **No separate ribbing sections to keep math manageable**. Instead:
- Hem: 8 rows of sc BLO (2" hem band)  
- Then transition to dc basketweave body
- Cuffs: pick up sts at sleeve end, work 8 rows sc BLO in the round
- Front bands: pick up along front edges, work 6 rows sc BLO flat

This is cleaner and avoids separate ribbing gauge calculations.

**REVISED GAUGE:**
- Main body (dc): **14 dc = 4" (3.5 dc/in); 8 rows = 4" (2 rows/in)**  
- Hem/cuff/band (sc BLO): **16 sc = 4" (4 sc/in); 20 rows = 4" (5 rows/in)** — but these are short bands so exact gauge is less critical; I'll just specify row counts

---

## STITCH COUNT CALCULATIONS

**MULTIPLE**: Basketweave stitch = multiple of 8. I'll add 2 selvage sts (1 each side), so **total sts = 8n + 2** for some integer n.

The first st and last st of each row are plain dc selvage sts. The middle (8n sts) are worked in basketweave.

**SIZES & KEY MEASUREMENTS:**

Let me lock in FOUR sizes with clear numbers:

| | S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X | 4X/5X |
|--|--|--|--|--|
|Fits chest|30-38"|38-46"|46-54"|54-62"|
|Finished bust|48"|56"|66"|76"|
|Back width|24"|28"|33"|38"|

Wait: 48" total bust for S/M means: back width 24" + left front at bust 12" + right front at bust 12" = 48". That's correct for a cardigan where fronts close exactly.  

For a WRAP cardigan, the fronts will be made WIDER so they can wrap across. I'll make each front 16" wide at bust for S/M (instead of 12"), giving a 4" wrap past center front. The extra width is what creates the wrap effect.

**BACK WIDTH = HALF OF FINISHED BUST:**
- S/M: 48/2 = 24" → 24 × 3.5 = 84 sts → nearest mult of 8 + 2 = 82 (8×10+2) or 90 (8×11+2)
  - 82 sts = 82/3.5 = 23.4" ≈ 23.5" ✓ (close enough)
  - I'll use **82 sts** for S/M back

Hmm, 82 = 8×10 + 2 → 10 basketweave blocks of 8 + 2 selvage sts. ✓

- L/XL: 56/2 = 28" → 28 × 3.5 = 98 sts → mult of 8+2: 98 (8×12+2=98) ✓ PERFECT!
  - **98 sts** for L/XL back = 98/3.5 = 28" ✓

- 2X/3X: 66/2 = 33" → 33 × 3.5 = 115.5 → mult of 8+2: 114 (8×14+2=114) → 114/3.5 = 32.6" ≈ 32.5" ✓
  - **114 sts** for 2X/3X back

- 4X/5X: 76/2 = 38" → 38 × 3.5 = 133 → mult of 8+2: 130 (8×16+2=130) → 130/3.5 = 37.1" ≈ 37" ✓
  - **130 sts** for 4X/5X back

Let me verify these multiples:
- 82: 82-2=80, 80/8=10 ✓
- 98: 98-2=96, 96/8=12 ✓
- 114: 114-2=112, 112/8=14 ✓
- 130: 130-2=128, 128/8=16 ✓

Excellent! All multiples verified.

**FRONT PANEL WIDTH** (includes wrap extension):
Each front = back width/2 + wrap extension
- S/M: 12" (half back) + 5" (wrap) = 17" → 17 × 3.5 = 59.5 → **58 sts** (mult of 8+2: 58-2=56, 56/8=7 ✓)
  - 58/3.5 = 16.6" ≈ 16.5" total front width ✓
  
- L/XL: 14" + 6" = 20" → 20 × 3.5 = 70 → mult of 8+2: 66 (8×8+2=66) → 66/3.5=18.9≈19" ✓
  - Or 74 (8×9+2=74) → 74/3.5=21.1≈21" 
  - I'll use **74 sts** for L/XL front (21") — this gives more wrap room ✓

- 2X/3X: 16.5" + 7" = 23.5" → 23.5 × 3.5 = 82.25 → mult of 8+2: 82 → 82/3.5=23.4" ✓
  - **82 sts** for 2X/3X front

- 4X/5X: 19" + 8" = 27" → 27 × 3.5 = 94.5 → mult of 8+2: 90 (8×11+2) → 90/3.5=25.7"≈26" ✓
  - **90 sts** for 4X/5X front

Hmm, wait — the fronts don't need to follow the basketweave multiple exactly since I can do dc on the wrap extension. Let me simplify: I'll work the front panel in dc (not basketweave) for simplicity, using basketweave only on the BACK. No, that's inconsistent.

Let me just use basketweave on both and my chosen multiples work. Let me verify the front widths give enough wrap:

| Size | Front sts | Front width | Half-back | Wrap extension |
|------|-----------|-------------|-----------|----------------|
| S/M | 58 sts | 58/3.5=16.6" | 23.4/2=11.7" | 16.6-11.7=4.9" ≈ 5" ✓ |
| L/XL | 74 sts | 74/3.5=21.1" | 28/2=14" | 21.1-14=7.1" ≈ 7" ✓ |
| 2X/3X | 82 sts | 82/3.5=23.4" | 32.6/2=16.3" | 23.4-16.3=7.1" ≈ 7" ✓ |
| 4X/5X | 90 sts | 90/3.5=25.7" | 37.1/2=18.6" | 25.7-18.6=7.1" ≈ 7" ✓ |

Good — each front has about 5-7" of wrap extension. That's sufficient for a nice wrap effect.

**BODY LENGTH:**
This is the length of the back (and fronts) from top of hem ribbing to shoulder.

For a long, cozy cardigan:
- S/M: 27" body length (from underarm/shoulder to hem) + 8" shoulder to neck = ... 

Actually, for flat pieces, I measure from HEM to SHOULDER (top). Let me define:
- Total garment length from shoulder to hem: 30" for S/M, 31" for L/XL, 32" for 2X/3X, 33" for 4X/5X
- This includes the hem band (2") 
- Body dc section: total length - 2" hem = 28", 29", 30", 31"

Rows for dc body section:
- S/M: 28" × 2 rows/inch = 56 rows
- L/XL: 29" × 2 = 58 rows
- 2X/3X: 30" × 2 = 60 rows
- 4X/5X: 31" × 2 = 62 rows

Rows for sc BLO hem band:
- All sizes: 2" × 5 rows/inch = 10 rows of sc BLO hem

Wait — my sc BLO gauge was 5 rows/inch? Let me reconsider.
For sc in BLO with worsted yarn and J hook, a reasonable gauge would be:
- 16 sc = 4" (horizontal, same as regular sc)
- About 18-20 rows = 4" because BLO doesn't compress as much as ribbing
- So about 4.5-5 rows/inch for sc BLO flat

For a 2" hem band: 2 × 5 = 10 rows. I'll say **10 rows** of sc BLO for hem band (approx 2").

Hem sts (sc BLO): same stitch count as dc body? Yes — I'll ch the foundation and work sc BLO for hem rows, then switch to dc for body.

Hmm, but if gauge changes (16 sc vs 14 dc per 4"), starting with sc and then dc would cause width inconsistency. Let me reconsider:

**SOLUTION**: I'll work the sc BLO hem using the SAME foundation as the dc body. But since 16 sc = 14 dc in width (different gauges per 4"), I need to either:
a) Use different stitch counts for ribbing vs body (and decrease/increase when transitioning), or
b) Use the same stitch count and accept slight width difference (hem is slightly wider than body = good blousing effect)
c) Just use the dc gauge for the foundation and work the first 10 rows in sc BLO (stitch counts will be same since we work into the same number of stitches)

Option c) is simplest: work foundation chain for dc gauge stitch count, work 10 rows sc BLO (fabric will be slightly wider due to different sc gauge but that's a minor/acceptable effect), then work dc body from row 11+.

OR — even simpler: just start with dc and do a "faux rib" with BPdc/FPdc on the first few rows. But sc BLO gives a better hem texture.

OR: don't bother with the sc transition — use the SAME dc fabric throughout and make the hem longer to compensate. Simpler instructions.

**FINAL FINAL DECISION on hem**: I'll work a **separate ribbing strip** that gets seamed to the bottom of each piece. The ribbing strip is worked lengthwise (sideways) in sc BLO, which gives a classic ribbed texture. This way:
- Main piece: all dc, clean stitch counts
- Ribbing: separate piece, sewn on
- This is how many professional crochet patterns do it

But this complicates instructions. 

**OK ABSOLUTE FINAL DECISION:** 
I'm going with the SIMPLEST approach that still looks professional:
- Work all pieces in dc (basketweave) from foundation chain
- Work 8-row sc BLO ribbing at BOTTOM of piece before switching to dc (work sc BLO into foundation chain, then dc)  
- The sc BLO stitches will be the same NUMBER as the dc stitches but slightly different width — this is negligible with the same hook
- Cuffs: work in joined rounds of sc BLO from sleeve bottom
- Front bands: work in rows of sc BLO along front edges after assembly

For the sc BLO hem worked on same foundation as dc: I'll use a gauge of 16 sc = 4" (4 sc/inch) for noting, but since we're working the sc into the same number of foundation chain sts as the dc, the stitch count doesn't change. Width might be slightly wider for hem — this is fine/desirable (hem flares slightly).

Row gauge for sc BLO: 20 rows = 4" (5 rows/inch). Hem height 2" = 10 rows. ✓

**SLEEVE CALCULATIONS:**

Sleeve shape: worked flat, tapered from upper arm to cuff, then seam the long edge.

| Size | Upper arm width | Cuff width | Sleeve length (underarm to cuff, excl cuff ribbing) |
|------|----------------|------------|------|
| S/M | 18" | 9" | 18" |
| L/XL | 20" | 10" | 18.5" |
| 2X/3X | 22" | 11" | 19" |
| 4X/5X | 24" | 12" | 19.5" |

Upper arm sts (dc):
- S/M: 18" × 3.5 = 63 sts — nearest mult of 8+2: 66 (8×8+2) → 66/3.5=18.9"≈19" ✓ or 58 (8×7+2)→58/3.5=16.6"
  - 63 is close to neither. Let me drop the basketweave requirement for sleeves and use ANY number.
  - S/M: **63 sts** (odd number — need to check if this works for decreasing evenly)
  
Actually, I realize I'm overcomplicating this. For sleeves, I'll use plain dc (not basketweave) to simplify. Basketweave only on back and fronts. Sleeves in plain dc. This is actually a design choice that makes sense — smooth sleeves contrast with textured body.

But wait — I said the whole garment uses basketweave. Let me revise the design:

**FINAL DESIGN DECISION:**
- Back: basketweave dc throughout
- Fronts: basketweave dc throughout  
- Sleeves: plain dc (design contrast, simpler)
- Hem, cuffs, front bands: sc BLO ribbing

For sleeves in plain dc, any stitch count works. Let me use clean numbers:

Upper arm sts: I want a number divisible by 2 for symmetric decreasing
- S/M: 18" × 3.5 = 63 → round to **64 sts** (even) ✓
- L/XL: 20" × 3.5 = 70 → **70 sts** ✓ (already even)
- 2X/3X: 22" × 3.5 = 77 → **78 sts** ✓
- 4X/5X: 24" × 3.5 = 84 → **84 sts** ✓

Cuff sts (after tapering):
- S/M: 9" × 3.5 = 31.5 → **32 sts** ✓
- L/XL: 10" × 3.5 = 35 → **36 sts** ✓  
- 2X/3X: 11" × 3.5 = 38.5 → **38 sts** (but I want even: **38** ✓)
- 4X/5X: 12" × 3.5 = 42 → **42 sts** ✓

Sleeve taper: decrease from upper arm to cuff over sleeve length.
Total sts to decrease (on each side):
- S/M: 64 - 32 = 32 sts to lose, 16 decreases on each side. Sleeve length 18" = 36 rows. 
  - 36 rows / 16 decreases = decrease every 2.25 rows → decrease every 2 rows for most of sleeve, then every 3 rows at end
  - More precisely: work decrease row every RS row for 12 decreases (24 rows), then every 3rd row for 4 more decreases (12 rows) = 36 rows total. 
  - After 12 decreases: 64-24=40 sts
  - After 4 more decreases: 40-8=32 sts ✓
  
Hmm, let me recalculate sleeve rows:
- S/M: sleeve length 18" = 18×2=36 rows dc + cuff ribbing
- But the sleeve is worked flat from TOP (cast on upper arm width), decrease to cuff

Sleeve decrease calculation for S/M:
- Start: 64 sts
- End: 32 sts  
- Sts to decrease: 64-32=32 sts total = 16 decrease events (each decrease event = dec 1 st each side = lose 2 sts)
- Total rows: 36
- Available rows for decreases: 36 (but first row is ch3+dc so just set up, last 2 rows before cuff could be straight)
- Let's say: decrease every 2 rows (every RS row) for 14 rows = 7 decrease events (lose 14 sts: 64→50 sts)
  Then decrease every row for... no that's too fast.
  
Let me try: 36 rows, need 16 decreases:
- Decrease every 2nd row: 36/2=18 possible decrease rows, but I only need 16
- So: decrease every 2nd row for 32 rows (= 16 decreases), then work even for 4 rows
- After 32 rows of alternating: 16 decreases × 2 sts = 32 sts lost → 64-32=32 ✓
- Then 4 rows even
- Total: 32+4=36 rows ✓ PERFECT!

Sleeve S/M: work dec row every RS row for 32 rows (16 dec rows), then 4 rows even = 36 total rows. Final: 32 sts. ✓

Sleeve L/XL:
- Start: 70, End: 36 sts. Lose: 34 sts = 17 dec events.
- Total rows: 37" → 18.5×2 = 37 rows
- Dec every 2nd row for 34 rows (17 dec events) = 17 decrease rows → 70-34=36 ✓
- Then 3 rows even. Total: 34+3=37 rows ✓

Sleeve 2X/3X:
- Start: 78, End: 38. Lose: 40 sts = 20 dec events.
- Total rows: 38 rows (19"×2=38)
- Dec every 2nd row for 40 rows = 20 dec events → but I only have 38 rows! Can't have 40 rows of alternating decreases in 38 total rows.
- Dec every row? 20 dec rows in 38 rows → dec every other row: 38/2=19 dec opportunities... need 20. Short by 1.
- Solution: decrease every row for 2 rows (start), then every 2nd row for 18 rows (=18 dec events), then every row for... let me try again.
- 2 decrease rows (dec every row) + 18 RS decrease rows × 2 = 2+36=38 rows, dec events: 2+18=20 ✓
- Or simpler: work first 2 rows: dec each row (2 dec events, lose 4 sts: 78→74)
  Then: work even 1 row, dec row pattern: dec every RS row for 36 more rows = 18 dec events, lose 36 sts: 74→38 ✓
  Total: 2 + (36) = 38 rows ✓ (But the "2 rows dec then alternate" needs to be carefully written)
  
Actually even simpler: 20 decreases over 38 rows, so decrease every 2 rows means dec every (38/20=1.9) rows → approximately every 2 rows. Round: 
  - For 10 decrease events: every 2 rows = 20 rows
  - For 10 decrease events: every 2 rows = 20 rows  
  - But 10+10=20 dec events in 40 rows... I have 38. So 38<40, I'm 2 rows short.
  - Compromise: decrease every 2 rows for 36 rows (18 dec events) = 78-36=42 sts remaining, then dec 2 more events in the last 2 rows: 42-4=38 ✓ Total: 36+2=38 rows ✓

2X/3X Sleeve: Work [dec row, even row] × 18 (= 36 rows, losing 36 sts: 78-36=42), then [dec row, dec row] (losing 4 sts: 42-4=38). Total: 38 rows ✓ Final: 38 sts ✓

4X/5X Sleeve:
- Start: 84, End: 42. Lose: 42 sts = 21 dec events.
- Total rows: 39 rows (19.5×2=39)
- 21 dec events × 2 sts = 42 sts
- Dec every 2 rows: 39 rows allows ~19 dec events (rows 1,3,5...37 = 19 RS rows of decs) → 38 sts lost, 84-38=46, not 42.
- Need 21 dec events in 39 rows.
- [dec, even] × 18 = 36 rows, 18 dec events, lose 36 sts: 84→48
- Then [dec, dec, dec] last 3 rows, 3 dec events, lose 6 sts: 48→42 ✓ Total: 36+3=39 rows ✓

4X/5X Sleeve: Work [dec row, even row] × 18 (= 36 rows, lose 36 sts: 84-36=48), then 3 consecutive dec rows (lose 6 sts: 48-6=42). Total: 39 rows ✓ Final: 42 sts ✓

**CUFF RIBBING** (after sleeve fabric): work in rounds of sc BLO
- 8 rows of sc BLO = approximately 1.6" of ribbing (8 rows / 5 rows per inch)
- Let me say 10 rows sc BLO = 2" cuff

Cuff joining: sleeve is worked flat, then seamed to form tube, then work sc BLO cuff from sleeve bottom edge.

Cuff sts: pick up same number as sleeve bottom sts (32, 36, 38, 42 for respective sizes)
- Work 10 rounds sc BLO
- Slip st to join each round

**NECK SHAPING:**

For the wrap cardigan, the neck is naturally V-shaped because the front panels simply don't go all the way to the center — they're angled. But since we're working flat pieces, the neck is shaped differently:

BACK NECK: shallow U-shape or straight across at top (for oversized, straight is common)
- Work all sts to desired shoulder height
- For neck: leave center sts unworked, work each shoulder separately
- Or for simplicity in oversized: just bind off (sl st across) the top and create the neck opening when assembling

For an OVERSIZED DROP-SHOULDER wrap cardigan, I'll keep it SIMPLE:
- Back: work straight to full height, no neck shaping (wide flat top, which when assembled gives a wide shallow neck — fine for oversized)
- Fronts: work straight to full height (no neck shaping — the open front IS the neck opening)
- V-neck comes from how fronts are assembled and the wrap drape

Assembly:
- Seam shoulders: back to fronts across 8-10" from each shoulder edge
- Center back ~7-8" remains open for neck
- Fronts hang down, and the wide top creates the lapel of the wrap

Shoulder seam width:
- S/M: back is 82 sts (23.4"). Neck opening 7" = 7×3.5=24.5 sts ≈ 24 sts center. Each shoulder: (82-24)/2 = 29 sts each side = 29/3.5 = 8.3" shoulder width ✓ (8" shoulder, looks good for oversized)

Actually, for a wrap cardigan, the shoulder seam doesn't need to be in the traditional spot. The entire top of the back joins to the top of each front piece. The neck opening is determined by how much of the back top edge is left unjoined (=neck).

Let me define:
- Neck width (back): 7" for all sizes = 7×3.5 ≈ 24 sts (let me say center 24 sts = neck opening)
  - S/M: 82 sts back, center 24 sts neck, shoulder seam each side = (82-24)/2 = 29 sts each side
  - L/XL: 98 sts back, center 24 sts, shoulder = (98-24)/2 = 37 sts each side = 37/3.5=10.6" ≈ 10.5" shoulder ✓
  - 2X/3X: 114 sts back, center 26 sts neck (7.4"), shoulder = (114-26)/2 = 44 sts each side = 44/3.5=12.6" ≈ 12.5" shoulder ✓
  - 4X/5X: 130 sts back, center 26 sts neck, shoulder = (130-26)/2 = 52 sts each side = 52/3.5=14.9" ≈ 15" shoulder ✓

Hmm, 15" shoulder seems very wide even for oversized. Let me use a larger neck opening:
- S/M: back 82 sts, neck 32 sts (9.1"), shoulder = (82-32)/2 = 25 sts = 7.1" ✓
- L/XL: back 98 sts, neck 34 sts (9.7"), shoulder = (98-34)/2 = 32 sts = 9.1" ✓ 
- 2X/3X: back 114 sts, neck 38 sts (10.9"), shoulder = (114-38)/2 = 38 sts = 10.9" — but this seems too wide
- Hmm, for a huge oversized sweater, wide shoulders are intentional.

Actually: for oversized, wide shoulder seams ARE correct and desirable. The sleeve then falls down the arm naturally. Let me use:
- Neck width: 8" for all sizes (comfortable neck hole)
  - 8" × 3.5 = 28 sts neck width
  - S/M: (82-28)/2 = 27 sts shoulder seam each side = 7.7" ✓
  - L/XL: (98-28)/2 = 35 sts = 10" ✓
  - 2X/3X: (114-28)/2 = 43 sts = 12.3" ✓
  - 4X/5X: (130-28)/2 = 51 sts = 14.6" ≈ 14.5" ✓ (appropriate for a 4X sweater)

These look good for an oversized drop-shoulder cardigan.

**FRONT PANEL HEIGHT:**
Fronts need to be same height as back for shoulder seam to work:
- Total height includes: hem ribbing (2") + dc body rows
- Same as back height: 30" for S/M, 31" L/XL, 32" 2X/3X, 33" 4X/5X

**SLEEVE ATTACHMENT:**
Drop shoulder = sleeve seam is sewn to side of body at armhole depth.
- Armhole depth = sleeve head width = upper arm width / 2 
  - S/M: 64 sts arm / 2 = 32 sts from top of shoulder = 32/3.5=9.1" ≈ 9" drop
  - L/XL: 70/2=35 sts = 10" drop
  - 2X/3X: 78/2=39 sts = 11.1" ≈ 11" drop
  - 4X/5X: 84/2=42 sts = 12" drop

For the body, I need to sew the sleeve to the body at the side seam. The body has no armhole cutout (drop shoulder). Sleeve top edge is sewn from shoulder seam down X inches on both front and back.

**SIDE SEAM LENGTH:**
Total body height = 30" (S/M). Armhole depth = 9" from shoulder. 
Side seam sewing starts 9" from top and goes down to hem:
- From top: shoulder = 0, sew sleeve from 0"-9", body side seam from 9"-30"
- Body side seam length: 30-9=21"

**ASSEMBLY SUMMARY:**
1. Seam shoulders (27 sts each side for S/M)
2. Fold sleeve in half (lengthwise), find center top = shoulder point; pin to shoulder seam; sew sleeve top edge to body within 9" of shoulder
3. Sew side seams and sleeve seams from cuff to hem (leave armhole area already attached)
4. Finish front bands and neckband
5. Make tie/belt

Wait, let me reconsider the assembly order:
1. Block all pieces
2. Join shoulders: seam back to front-right shoulder, back to front-left shoulder (leaving 28 sts/8" center back unjoined = neck)
3. Attach sleeves: center top of sleeve to shoulder seam, sew top of sleeve to body side (9" down from shoulder on each of front and back)
4. Sew side body seams (from underarm/bottom of sleeve attachment to hem)
5. Sew sleeve seams (from underarm to cuff start)
6. Work cuff ribbing in rounds of sc BLO
7. Work front band sc BLO up right front, around back neck, down left front
8. Make tie/sash

**FRONT BAND:**
After assembly, pick up sc sts along front edges:
- Front edge height = garment length = 30" for S/M
- At 4 sc per inch on a dc fabric edge (usually 1 sc per dc row end = 2 rows/inch × 1 sc per row = 2 sc per inch... hmm)
- For dc fabric, the standard pickup for front band: 1 sc per row end = 2 sc per inch (since 2 rows = 1")... wait, I said 8 rows = 4" = 2 rows/in. So 2 sc per inch pickup.
- S/M: 30" × 2 sc/inch = 60 sc per front edge
- For neckband: pick up around back neck (28 sts/8") = 28 sc across back neck
- Total front band going up right, across back, down left: 60 + 28 + 60 = 148 sc for S/M

Work 6 rows of sc BLO for front band. ✓

**BELT/SASH:**
Work a separate strip in dc or sc BLO:
- 4" wide × 60" long (adjustable for all sizes)
- 4" dc: 4 × 3.5 = 14 dc wide
- 60" long: 60 × 3.5 = 210 dc rows... no wait, that's width not length
- For a belt 60" long: this would be a VERY long piece to work in rows. Instead, work it as a narrow panel:
  - Ch 15 (= 14 dc + 1 for ch3)
  - Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as dc), dc in each ch across (13 dc + ch3 = 14 sts)
  - Wait: ch 15, dc in 4th from hook = dc in ch 4, then dc in ch 5 through ch 15 = 12 more dc = 13 dc total with ch3 = 14 sts? Let me recount: ch 15, skip 3 (ch3=first dc), dc in positions 4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15 = 12 dc + 1 (ch3) = 13 sts. Hmm.

Let me just specify:
- Foundation ch: 16
- Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (ch3 = dc), dc in each ch across. (14 dc total)
- Repeat for 120 rows (60" length at 2 rows/inch) — that's a lot of rows for a narrow belt

Or better: make belt in sc:
- Ch 9
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (8 sc)
- Repeat for many rows...
- 60" at 5 rows/inch = 300 rows — also a lot

Or: work belt LENGTHWISE:
- Ch the LENGTH: 60" × 4 sc/inch = 240 ch
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (239 sc)
- Work 12 more rows of sc BLO (for about 2.5" width)
- Or: ch 240 and work dc for 8 rows for a 4" width

Let me do: 
- Belt: ch 220 (≈55" long)
- Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc across (218 dc)
- Rows 2-6: ch3, turn, dc in each dc across (218 dc) — 6 rows = 3" wide
- This creates a 55" × 3" belt

55" is enough for most sizes; can be made longer for larger sizes.

Hmm, 220 ch is a long foundation chain. I'll include it but note it can be adjusted.

**YARDAGE CALCULATION:**

This is very important for the pattern. Let me estimate:

For S/M garment:
- Back: 82 sts × 56 rows dc body + 82 sts × 10 rows sc BLO hem
  - Approx dc yardage: each row of 82 dc ≈ 82 sts × (3" of yarn per dc) / 36 = 82 × 0.083yd ≈ 6.8 yd per row
  - Wait, let me use a different approach: typical worsted dc fabric ≈ 140-200 yd per 100 sq inches
  - Back area: 23.4" × 30" = 702 sq in
  - At 160 yd/100 sq in: 702/100 × 160 = 1123 yd for back
  - That seems high. Let me use: 1 skein worsted (200yd) covers approximately 8" × 8" = 64 sq in of dc fabric
  - 200 yd / 64 sq in = 3.125 yd per sq in
  - Back: 702 sq in × 3.125 = 2194 yd — way too high!

I'm clearly wrong with my estimate. Let me think differently.

A typical adult sweater in worsted weight dc uses about 1200-1600 yards for a S/M. For an oversized large cardigan with extra front panels, maybe 2000-2500 yards for S/M.

Let me use a more realistic calculation:
- Worsted dc: approximately 100 yd per 4" × 8" panel (rough estimate)
- Back panel (S/M): 23.4" × 28" body = 655 sq in
- 4"×8" = 32 sq in → 100 yd per 32 sq in = 3.125 yd/sq in
- Back: 655 × 3.125 = 2047 yd for back alone — still seems high

Let me try yet another approach: count yards per row of specific stitch count:
- For worsted yarn (say Cascade 220, ~200yd per 100g skein):
- In dc: each stitch uses approximately 1.25" to 1.5" of yarn
- S/M back row: 82 dc × 1.5" per dc = 123" = 3.42 yd per row
- 56 body rows: 56 × 3.42 = 191 yd for dc body (back)
- 10 hem rows (sc): 82 sc × 0.75" per sc = 61.5" = 1.71 yd per row × 10 = 17 yd
- Back total