purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
- The user requests a "Riddari" — this is a classic Icelandic yoke sweater (lopapeysa-style) with traditional geometric colorwork in the circular yoke. The Riddari is a well-known Icelandic pattern characterized by bold geometric/diamond patterns in the yoke, typically worked in 2-3 colors with a natural wool palette. However, the user specified WORSTED weight (heavier than traditional lopi, but workable), and the template is Nordic Fair Isle Pullover with circular yoke construction.
- The Riddari traditionally features: a bold geometric yoke pattern (often diamonds/triangles in a repeating band), solid body and sleeves in MC, and a clean ribbed hem/cuff/neckband. I'll design with traditional Icelandic aesthetic — natural sheep colors (off-white, charcoal/dark gray, rust/brown), geometric diamond/triangle motifs in the yoke.
- Colors: MC = Charcoal (Color A), CC1 = Natural Off-White (Color B), CC2 = Rust/Caramel (Color C) — 3 colors total, traditional Icelandic feel.
- Fit: Traditional fit with 4-6" positive ease (authentic Icelandic look).
- Sizes: S (34-36"), M (38-40"), L (42-44"), XL (46-48"), 2XL (50-52")

2. **Construction Plan**:
- Bottom-up circular construction
- Body worked in the round from hem to underarms in MC
- Sleeves worked separately in the round from cuff to underarms in MC
- Join body + sleeves at yoke, begin circular yoke with colorwork
- Yoke: Work colorwork pattern (geometric Riddari-style diamonds/triangles), decreasing evenly throughout yoke
- Finish with ribbed neckband
- Worsted weight: I'll use US 9 / 5.5mm for colorwork (colorwork pulls in), US 8 / 5mm for ribbing

3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Worsted weight gauge: approximately 18 sts / 24 rows = 4" in colorwork (colorwork tends to be tighter). Let me be precise: Worsted stockinette is typically 18-20 sts/4". For colorwork in worsted, I'll set gauge at 18 sts / 24 rnds = 4" in stranded colorwork pattern on larger needle. That's 4.5 sts/inch.
- Need to verify all stitch counts at join, through yoke decreases, to neck.
- Need to design a workable colorwork chart for the yoke — I'll describe a geometric Riddari-style pattern (diamonds/chevrons) that can be charted.
- Float management: worsted weight colorwork — floats should be caught every 5-7 sts max.
- Need to ensure the colorwork repeat divides evenly into the stitch counts at each decrease point.
- The yoke colorwork pattern for Riddari typically has: a small border/seed pattern at bottom of yoke, a main large geometric band (diamonds/triangles), then decrease to neck with smaller motifs or plain.

4. **Final Calculations**:

**Gauge**: 18 sts / 24 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in stranded colorwork on US 9 / 5.5mm needles
That = 4.5 sts per inch / 6 rnds per inch

**Sizes and finished chest measurements** (with ~4-5" positive ease):
- S: 38" finished chest (fits 34-36")
- M: 42" finished chest (fits 38-40")  
- L: 46" finished chest (fits 42-44")
- XL: 50" finished chest (fits 46-48")
- 2XL: 54" finished chest (fits 50-52")

**Body stitch counts** (circumference):
- S: 38" × 4.5 sts/inch = 171 sts → round to nearest even number divisible by useful repeat. Let me think about the colorwork repeat. For Riddari-style, I'll use a 12-stitch repeat in the main pattern. So I need multiples of 12 (or at least multiples of the pattern repeat).
  - S: 38 × 4.5 = 171 → 168 sts (14 × 12) — 168 / 4.5 = 37.3" ✓ close to 38"
  - M: 42 × 4.5 = 189 → 192 sts (16 × 12) — 192 / 4.5 = 42.7" ✓
  - L: 46 × 4.5 = 207 → 204 sts (17 × 12) — 204 / 4.5 = 45.3" ✓
  - XL: 50 × 4.5 = 225 → 228 sts (19 × 12) — 228 / 4.5 = 50.7" ✓
  - 2XL: 54 × 4.5 = 243 → 252 sts (21 × 12) — 252 / 4.5 = 56" — slightly high. Let me try 240 (20 × 12) = 53.3". That's fine for 50-52" body with ease.

Actually, let me reconsider. The finished chest is the full circumference. With 4" ease for S (34-36"), finished = 38-40". Let me use 4" positive ease consistently:
- S: body = 38", so 38 × 4.5 = 171 → 168 sts (14 reps of 12)
- M: body = 42", so 42 × 4.5 = 189 → 192 sts (16 reps of 12)
- L: body = 46", so 46 × 4.5 = 207 → 204 sts (17 reps of 12) — hmm, 17 × 12 = 204, that works but 17 is odd number of repeats. Actually the number of repeats doesn't need to be even necessarily for in-the-round work, it just needs to divide evenly. Let me try 18 × 12 = 216 for L → 216/4.5 = 48" — a bit much. 204 is fine (17 reps).
- XL: 50" → 50 × 4.5 = 225 → 228 sts (19 × 12 = 228) → 228/4.5 = 50.7" ✓
- 2XL: 54" → 54 × 4.5 = 243 → 240 sts (20 × 12 = 240) → 240/4.5 = 53.3" ✓

Body stitch counts: 168 / 192 / 204 / 228 / 240

**Underarm placement**: 
For front/back, split body at underarm: each half = body sts / 2
- Also place underarm steek/hold stitches: typically 8-10 sts placed on hold at each underarm (from body)
- Actually for standard yoke construction: place ~6-8 sts on hold at each underarm (front and back matched)

Let me set underarm hold = 8 sts for all sizes (taken from body, 4 from each side of the seam point):
Wait, the underarm stitches come from BOTH the body and the sleeve. Typically you remove the same number from each.

Let me use a cleaner approach:
- Underarm sts on hold (body side, each underarm): 
  - S: 8 sts
  - M: 8 sts  
  - L: 10 sts
  - XL: 10 sts
  - 2XL: 10 sts

Body sts remaining for yoke (body total - 2 × underarm sts):
- S: 168 - 16 = 152 sts
- M: 192 - 16 = 176 sts
- L: 204 - 20 = 184 sts
- XL: 228 - 20 = 208 sts
- 2XL: 240 - 20 = 220 sts

**Sleeve stitch counts**:
Upper arm circumference (before sleeve cap shaping — this is where sleeves join at underarm):
Typical upper arm = 13-16" depending on size, but for Icelandic sweater with ease: ~14-17"
Let me calculate sleeve sts at underarm join (what I'll call the "sleeve top"):

Sleeve circumference at upper arm (generous fit):
- S: 14.5" → 14.5 × 4.5 = 65.25 → 60 sts (need multiple of 12 to work eventually... actually sleeves don't need to be multiples of 12 since they just add into the yoke count. Let me aim for multiples of 4 for ease of math)
  - S: 60 sts
  - M: 64 sts  
  - L: 68 sts
  - XL: 72 sts
  - 2XL: 76 sts

Sleeve sts removed at underarm (same as body underarm sts):
- S: 8 sts → sleeve sts for yoke = 60 - 8 = 52
- M: 8 sts → 64 - 8 = 56
- L: 10 sts → 68 - 10 = 58
- XL: 10 sts → 72 - 10 = 62
- 2XL: 10 sts → 76 - 10 = 66

**Total yoke sts at join** (body sts + 2 × sleeve sts):
- S: 152 + 2(52) = 152 + 104 = 256 sts
- M: 176 + 2(56) = 176 + 112 = 288 sts
- L: 184 + 2(58) = 184 + 116 = 300 sts
- XL: 208 + 2(62) = 208 + 124 = 332 sts
- 2XL: 220 + 2(66) = 220 + 132 = 352 sts

**Target neck sts**: ~80-100 sts
I'll aim for:
- S: 84 sts
- M: 90 sts (round to 96 for pattern multiple? Let me think about this after)
- L: 96 sts
- XL: 96 sts
- 2XL: 102 sts

Actually let me settle on neck sts as multiples of some useful number (for 1×1 rib or 2×2 rib at neck). Let's use multiples of 4:
- S: 84 sts (divisible by 4? 84/4 = 21. Yes!)
- M: 88 sts 
- L: 96 sts
- XL: 96 sts
- 2XL: 100 sts

**Total decreases needed in yoke**:
- S: 256 - 84 = 172 sts to decrease
- M: 288 - 88 = 200 sts to decrease
- L: 300 - 96 = 204 sts to decrease
- XL: 332 - 96 = 236 sts to decrease
- 2XL: 352 - 100 = 252 sts to decrease

**Yoke structure / colorwork design**:
Riddari yoke typically has:
- A bottom border/joining round
- A small seed/peerie border (often 2-3 rounds)
- A main geometric band (the signature Riddari-style diamonds or triangles) — about 4-5" of colorwork
- Additional smaller border
- Upper plain section
- Neckband

For a worsted weight yoke, the depth will be:
Yoke depth = from underarm to base of neck
Typical yoke depths: S=9", M=9.5", L=10", XL=10.5", 2XL=11"

With 6 rnds/inch, that's:
- S: 54 rnds
- M: 57 rnds (round to 58)
- L: 60 rnds
- XL: 63 rnds
- 2XL: 66 rnds

**Decrease planning**:
I'll work the Riddari yoke with decrease rounds interspersed in the colorwork. The traditional approach has 3-5 decrease rounds. Let me plan 4 decrease rounds:

For worsted Riddari, let me plan the yoke structure with decreases. I need to design this so the colorwork works out.

Let me design the yoke to work for all sizes with some adjustments. I'll design a specific colorwork structure:

**Yoke colorwork structure** (worked in rounds from bottom of yoke to neck):
Section 1 (Rnds 1-6): Lower border — simple 2-color seed/cross pattern (12-st repeat works)
Section 2 (Rnd 7): Decrease Round 1
Section 3 (Rnds 8-30 approx): Main diamond/geometric colorwork pattern
Section 4 (Rnd 31): Decrease Round 2
Section 5: Small upper border 
Section 6: Decrease Round 3
Section 7: Upper plain or small peerie
Section 8: Decrease Round 4
Section 9: Ribbing / neckband

Actually, the best approach for a Riddari is to plan decreases at specific points that align with the pattern. Let me think about this more carefully.

Traditional Riddari decrease rounds typically happen at:
1. Just before main colorwork begins
2. During/after main colorwork
3. In upper yoke
4. Near neck

Let me plan 4 decrease rounds, making the math work for all sizes.

Let me simplify and plan cleaner decrease rounds. I'll work with specific stitch counts and decrease percentages:

**Target stitch counts at each stage**:

Goal: Start with 256/288/300/332/352, end at 84/88/96/96/100

Let me plan 4 decrease rounds, trying to decrease roughly similar percentages:

Let me try a different approach — I'll plan the yoke to have set stitch counts at each decrease round that work across all sizes, then the colorwork pattern adapts slightly.

Actually, for a publishable pattern, let me design the yoke more carefully.

Let me re-examine my total yoke sts and make sure everything is divisible by 4 (for clean decreases):
- S: 256 ✓ (div by 4)
- M: 288 ✓
- L: 300 ÷ 4 = 75 ✓
- XL: 332 ÷ 4 = 83 ✓
- 2XL: 352 ✓

Now let me plan 4 decrease rounds:

**Decrease Round Strategy**:
I'll decrease by approximately 20-25% per round.

Starting: 256 / 288 / 300 / 332 / 352

**Round 1 Decrease** (~20% decrease, at bottom of yoke, before colorwork):
- S: 256 × 0.20 = 51.2 → decrease 52 sts → 256 - 52 = 204 sts. Hmm, or let me think in terms of decrease spacing.
  
For *k[x], k2tog* repeats:
If I do k2, k2tog repeat (decrease 25%): 256 × 0.25 = 64 decreases → 192 sts. That's very aggressive for first round.

Let me try *k3, k2tog* (decrease 20%):
- S: 256 / 4 sts per repeat = 64 repeats → decrease 64 → 256 - 64... wait: k3, k2tog = 5 sts per repeat, decrease 1. 256/5 = 51.2 — not clean.

Let me try working with multiples differently:

For the first decrease round, I want to bring the stitch counts down so they're multiples of my colorwork repeat (12 sts).

- S: 256 → need multiple of 12: 252 (21 reps) or 240 (20 reps). Decrease 4 (to 252) or 16 (to 240).
- M: 288 → already 288/12 = 24 reps ✓
- L: 300 → 300/12 = 25 reps ✓
- XL: 332 → 336/12 = 28 reps (need to add 4) or 324/12 = 27 reps (decrease 8)
- 2XL: 352 → 348/12 = 29 (decrease 4) or 360/12 = 30 (add 8)

Hmm, this is getting complicated. Let me redesign my stitch counts so the yoke entry point is already a multiple of 12.

Let me rebuild from scratch with a cleaner approach:

**Target: all yoke entry sts divisible by 12**

Working backwards:
- S: yoke entry = 252 (21 × 12)
- M: yoke entry = 288 (24 × 12)
- L: yoke entry = 312 (26 × 12)
- XL: yoke entry = 336 (28 × 12)
- 2XL: yoke entry = 360 (30 × 12)

Now I need to figure out how to get these from body + 2 sleeves.

Actually, I think the cleanest approach for a real pattern is to do a setup round at the yoke join where I increase or decrease to the nearest multiple of the colorwork repeat. This is a standard technique.

Let me redesign the yoke entry to include a "Setup Round" where I adjust stitches to the nearest multiple of 12.

**REVISED APPROACH**:

Keep my original calculations for body and sleeve sts, but add a setup round at yoke beginning.

Original yoke totals: 256 / 288 / 300 / 332 / 352

Adjust to multiples of 12:
- S: 256 → 252 (decrease 4)
- M: 288 → 288 (no change) ✓
- L: 300 → 300 (300/12 = 25) ✓
- XL: 332 → 336 (increase 4)
- 2XL: 352 → 360 (increase 8)

Setup round adjustments: -4 / 0 / 0 / +4 / +8

This is totally workable! Add/decrease evenly in setup round.

So yoke entry sts (after setup): 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360

Number of 12-st repeats: 21 / 24 / 25 / 28 / 30

**Colorwork repeat**: I'll design the pattern on a 12-stitch repeat. This gives a nice Riddari-style geometric pattern.

**Now plan decrease rounds through yoke**:

I need to go from 252/288/300/336/360 down to ~84/88/96/96/100

Wait — I should reconsider neck sts as multiples of 12 (or at least 4):
- 84 = 7 × 12 ✓ (also div by 4)
- 96 = 8 × 12 ✓  
- 100 is not div by 12 but is div by 4

Let me aim for:
- S: 84 sts (7 × 12)
- M: 84 sts (7 × 12) — or 96
- L: 96 sts (8 × 12)
- XL: 96 sts (8 × 12)
- 2XL: 96 sts (8 × 12) — or 108 (9 × 12)

Let me use: 84 / 96 / 96 / 96 / 108

Total to decrease: 
- S: 252 - 84 = 168
- M: 288 - 96 = 192
- L: 300 - 96 = 204
- XL: 336 - 96 = 240
- 2XL: 360 - 108 = 252

**Plan: 4 Decrease Rounds**

For the Riddari yoke with colorwork, I'll plan the decreases at these points and make sure remaining sts after each decrease are still multiples of 12 (or at least 6) for the colorwork.

**Decrease Round 1** (just after joining, before first colorwork border):
Decrease approx 1/6 of stitches:

For clean math, let me try k4, k2tog (dec 1 in every 6, decreasing ~16.7%):
252 / 6 × 1 = 42 dec → 252 - 42 = 210 ✓ (210/6 = 35, but 210/12 = 17.5 — not a multiple of 12)

Hmm. Let me try different spacing.

For repeats of 12 to be maintained, I should decrease multiples of 12:
- S: Start 252. Decrease 24 → 228 (19 × 12). k9, k2tog repeat: 252/11 = 22.9 (not clean). 
  
This approach of maintaining multiples of 12 throughout is getting very constraining. Let me reconsider.

**Key insight**: The colorwork pattern doesn't need to remain at full repeats throughout the yoke — it's traditional to design the pattern so that decreases happen at specific spots in the pattern and the pattern scales. OR, I can design decrease rounds to happen between colorwork sections where sts don't need to be multiples of the main repeat.

Let me take a more practical approach:
- The MAIN colorwork section (diamonds) works on multiples of 12
- Decrease rounds happen BETWEEN colorwork sections
- After each decrease round, check if sts still work for next pattern section (which may have a different repeat)
- Upper yoke can work on smaller repeats (6-st, 4-st, or 2-st)

**Revised yoke structure and decreases**:

Starting sts: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360

**Phase 1: Lower border** (8 rnds, 4-st repeat peerie pattern — needs multiples of 4)
252/4=63 ✓; 288/4=72 ✓; 300/4=75 ✓; 336/4=84 ✓; 360/4=90 ✓ — all work!

**Decrease Round 1**: After lower border
Make next section multiples of 12 (for main colorwork section):
- S: 252 ÷ 12 = 21 ✓ no change needed
- M: 288 ÷ 12 = 24 ✓ no change  
- L: 300 ÷ 12 = 25 ✓ no change
- XL: 336 ÷ 12 = 28 ✓ no change
- 2XL: 360 ÷ 12 = 30 ✓ no change

So at this point, all counts are already multiples of 12! Great.

But I still need to decrease during this section. Let me plan the decrease round before the main colorwork at a reasonable percentage:

**Decrease Round 1** (decrease ~14% → k6, k2tog repeat = decrease 1 in 8 sts = 12.5%):
- k6, k2tog: needs sts divisible by 8... 252/8 = 31.5 ✗
- k5, k2tog (decrease 1 in 7 = 14.3%): needs divisible by 7... 252/7 = 36 ✓; 288/7 = 41.1 ✗

This is getting complicated. Let me try a different method — calculate the number of decreases needed per size and space them evenly:

For the Riddari, I'll plan 3 main decrease rounds (since the yoke is relatively compact in worsted weight) plus a neckline shaping round:

**Goal stitch counts at each stage**:

Yoke entry: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360

After Dec Rnd 1: need multiples of 12 (since main colorwork uses 12-st repeat)
- S: 216 (18 × 12) — decrease 36 from 252 ✓ 
- M: 240 (20 × 12) — decrease 48 from 288 ✓
- L: 252 (21 × 12) — decrease 48 from 300 ✓ (302-48=252, but 300-48=252 ✓)
- XL: 288 (24 × 12) — decrease 48 from 336 ✓
- 2XL: 300 (25 × 12) — decrease 60 from 360 ✓

So Dec Rnd 1:
- S: decrease 36 from 252 (dec 1 in 7: k5, k2tog): 252/7 = 36 repeats ✓
- M: decrease 48 from 288 (dec 1 in 6: k4, k2tog): 288/6 = 48 repeats ✓
- L: decrease 48 from 300 (need to space 48 decs evenly in 300 sts): 300/48 = 6.25 → not a clean pattern. Instead: 300 ÷ (300/48) ... Let me do: 252 evenly is hard. 
  - Alternative: k4, k2tog = decrease 1 in 6 = 50 decs from 300 → 250. But 250/12 = 20.8 not a multiple of 12.
  - k5, k2tog = decrease 1 in 7 = 300/7 = 42.8 → ~42 decs → 258. 258/12 = 21.5 ✗
  - k3, k2tog = 1 in 5 = 60 decs → 240. 240/12 = 20 ✓!
  
Let me try: after Dec Rnd 1:
- S: 252 → k6, k2tog (1 in 8) → no wait...

OK I'm overcomplicating this. Let me take a step back and use a more practical approach that real patterns use.

**PRACTICAL APPROACH**: 
Real Riddari-style patterns typically:
1. Work a setup round after joining where they adjust stitch count by a few sts to nearest useful multiple
2. Work decreases at specific intervals that maintain pattern workability
3. Sometimes the colorwork chart is designed to accommodate the existing stitch counts

Let me redesign with round numbers and practical decrease rounds:

**FINAL REVISED PLAN**:

I'll redesign the sleeve and body counts slightly to get cleaner yoke math.

**Gauge**: 18 sts / 24 rnds = 4" → 4.5 sts/inch, 6 rnds/inch

**Body circumferences (finished, with ease)**:
- S: 38" (4" ease over 34")
- M: 42" (4" ease over 38")
- L: 46" (4" ease over 42")
- XL: 50" (4" ease over 46")
- 2XL: 54" (4" ease over 50")

**Body sts**: target multiples of 12:
- S: 38 × 4.5 = 171 → 168 sts (14 × 12) = 37.3" ✓ close enough
- M: 42 × 4.5 = 189 → 192 sts (16 × 12) = 42.7" ✓
- L: 46 × 4.5 = 207 → 204 sts (17 × 12) = 45.3" — hmm, 210 ÷ 12 = 17.5, 204 ÷ 12 = 17 ✓
- XL: 50 × 4.5 = 225 → 228 sts (19 × 12) = 50.7" ✓
- 2XL: 54 × 4.5 = 243 → 240 sts (20 × 12) = 53.3" ✓

Hmm, L = 204 sts. That's 17 × 12. OK.

**Underarm sts on hold** (from body, each underarm):
- S/M: 8 sts each side (× 2 = 16 total)
- L/XL/2XL: 10 sts each side (× 2 = 20 total)

Wait, but I need body sts remaining after underarm placement to still be multiples of 12 (ideally):
- S: 168 - 16 = 152. 152/12 = 12.67 ✗
- M: 192 - 16 = 176. 176/12 = 14.67 ✗
- L: 204 - 20 = 184. 184/12 = 15.33 ✗
- XL: 228 - 20 = 208. 208/12 = 17.33 ✗
- 2XL: 240 - 20 = 220. 220/12 = 18.33 ✗

None of these are multiples of 12 because removing the underarm sts messes up the multiple. This is totally expected and normal — the yoke stitch count doesn't need to be a multiple of the colorwork repeat at the JOIN point because we do a setup/adjustment round.

So: I'll just use a SETUP ROUND after joining that adjusts the total to the nearest useful number. This is standard practice.

**Sleeve stitch counts at upper arm** (generous ease for Icelandic style):
- S: 15" circ → 15 × 4.5 = 67.5 → 60 sts (nearest mult of 12 that makes sense... 60/12 = 5 ✓)
  Wait, sleeve entry doesn't need to be mult of 12 either. Let me just use clean numbers.
- S: 60 sts (upper arm ~13.3")
- M: 64 sts (upper arm ~14.2") — hmm not div by 12. That's fine.
- L: 68 sts
- XL: 72 sts (16") 
- 2XL: 76 sts

Actually, let me think about sleeve upper arm more carefully:
- Traditional Riddari is generous in the sleeve
- S: ~13-14" upper arm → 14 × 4.5 = 63 → let me use 60 sts
- M: ~14.5-15" upper arm → 15 × 4.5 = 67.5 → 68 sts
- L: ~16" → 16 × 4.5 = 72 sts
- XL: ~17" → 17 × 4.5 = 76.5 → 76 sts
- 2XL: ~18" → 18 × 4.5 = 81 → 80 sts

Sleeve sts after removing underarm hold:
- S: 60 - 8 = 52
- M: 68 - 8 = 60
- L: 72 - 10 = 62
- XL: 76 - 10 = 66
- 2XL: 80 - 10 = 70

**Total yoke at join** = body sts remaining + 2 × sleeve sts:
- S: 152 + 2(52) = 152 + 104 = 256
- M: 176 + 2(60) = 176 + 120 = 296
- L: 184 + 2(62) = 184 + 124 = 308
- XL: 208 + 2(66) = 208 + 132 = 340
- 2XL: 220 + 2(70) = 220 + 140 = 360

Adjust to multiples of 12 in setup round:
- S: 256 → 252 (decrease 4) [21 × 12]
- M: 296 → 300 (increase 4) or 288 (decrease 8) — let me use 300 (25 × 12)
  - Actually 296 → 288 = -8 (decrease 8 evenly = k35, k2tog... messy)
  - 296 → 300 = +4 (increase 4 evenly, one per quadrant) — much cleaner!
- L: 308 → 312 (increase 4) [26 × 12]
- XL: 340 → 336 (decrease 4) [28 × 12] 
- 2XL: 360 → 360 (no change) [30 × 12] ✓

Setup round adjustments: -4 / +4 / +4 / -4 / 0

After setup: 252 / 300 / 312 / 336 / 360

Hmm, these sizes don't progress very evenly. M jumps from S's 252 to 300. Let me recheck:

Actually wait. Let me reconsider my sleeve counts. I think the issue is M sleeve went from 60 to 68, which is a big jump. Let me equalize more:

- S: sleeve top = 60 sts
- M: sleeve top = 64 sts (not 68)
- L: sleeve top = 68 sts
- XL: sleeve top = 72 sts
- 2XL: sleeve top = 76 sts

After underarm removal:
- S: 60 - 8 = 52
- M: 64 - 8 = 56
- L: 68 - 10 = 58
- XL: 72 - 10 = 62
- 2XL: 76 - 10 = 66

Total at join:
- S: 152 + 104 = 256
- M: 176 + 112 = 288
- L: 184 + 116 = 300
- XL: 208 + 124 = 332
- 2XL: 220 + 132 = 352

Adjust to multiples of 12:
- S: 256 → 252 (-4) [21 repeats]
- M: 288 → 288 (0) [24 repeats] ✓
- L: 300 → 300 (0) [25 repeats] ✓
- XL: 332 → 336 (+4) [28 repeats]
- 2XL: 352 → 360 (+8) [30 repeats]

After setup: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360 ← These progress much more evenly! Good.

**Now plan yoke decreases**:

Start: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360
End (neck): aim for multiples of 6 or 12 around 84-108:
- S: 84 (7 × 12) 
- M: 96 (8 × 12)
- L: 96 (8 × 12)
- XL: 96 (8 × 12)
- 2XL: 108 (9 × 12)

Total decreases:
- S: 252 - 84 = 168
- M: 288 - 96 = 192
- L: 300 - 96 = 204
- XL: 336 - 96 = 240
- 2XL: 360 - 108 = 252

I'll plan **3 decrease rounds** in the yoke (traditional for Icelandic yokes of this depth):

**After 3 decrease rounds, what should intermediate counts be?**

Let me figure out the decrease structure. I want:
- Dec Rnd 1: Reduce to count for main colorwork (multiples of 12)
- Dec Rnd 2: Further reduce (could be mid-colorwork or between sections)  
- Dec Rnd 3: Final reduction before neck

Actually, for Riddari in worsted weight, 3 decrease rounds is probably fine, but let me plan 4 for better shaping.

Let me plan target counts at each decrease point:

**4 Decrease Rounds:**

After Dec Rnd 1: [worked before main colorwork begins]
- S: 252 → 210 (decrease 42, k4 k2tog repeat: 252/6 = 42 ✓) → 210 sts (210/6 = 35, but 210/12 = 17.5 ✗)

Hmm. Let me think about what multiples I need at each stage:

Main colorwork (center band): 12-st repeat
Upper band: 6-st repeat
Topmost border: 4-st repeat

So I need:
- For main colorwork: multiples of 12
- For upper 6-st repeat: multiples of 6 (all multiples of 12 are also multiples of 6 ✓)
- For 4-st border: multiples of 4 (multiples of 12 are also multiples of 4 ✓)

So if I keep everything as multiples of 12, that works for all sections!

Target: all intermediate stitch counts = multiples of 12.

Start: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360 — all multiples of 12 ✓
End: 84 / 96 / 96 / 96 / 108 — all multiples of 12 ✓

Let me find 4 intermediate multiples of 12 between start and end:

For S (252 → 84):
Dec Rnd 1: 252 → 216 (dec 36: k5, k2tog: 252/7 = 36 ✓)
Dec Rnd 2: 216 → 180 (dec 36: k4, k2tog: 216/6 = 36 ✓) 
Wait, 216/6 = 36, so k4, k2tog gives dec 36: 216 - 36 = 180 ✓ (180/12 = 15 ✓)
Dec Rnd 3: 180 → 132 (dec 48: k2, k2tog: 180/4 = 45... 45 × 3 = 135 ✗. Hmm)
Actually k2, k2tog: 180 / 4 = 45 reps, decrease 45 → 180 - 45 = 135. But 135/12 = 11.25 ✗

Let me try: 180 → 144 (dec 36: k4, k2tog: 180/6 = 30 reps, dec 30 → 180-30=150. Not 144)
k3, k2tog: 180/5 = 36 reps, dec 36 → 180-36 = 144 ✓ (144/12 = 12 ✓)
Dec Rnd 4: 144 → 84 (dec 60: k2, k2tog on some, or: 144/? = 84. Dec 60.
k2, k2tog would dec 36, not 60.
How about: alternate k2tog and k2? (k2tog, k2) × 36 = 108 sts. Not 84.
(k2tog, k1) × 48 = 96 sts. Not 84.
Hmm. Let me reconsider. 144 - 84 = 60. 

144/60 = 2.4 → (k2tog, k1) roughly? 
Actually: (k1, k2tog) × 48 → decrease 48 → 96. Too many.
(k2, k2tog) × 36 → decrease 36 → 108. Too few.

Hmm. 60 decreases from 144:
Could do two passes? Or could I change my targets?

Let me try S: 252 → 216 → 168 → 120 → 84

252 → 216: dec 36 (k5, k2tog × 36: 252/7 = 36 ✓)
216 → 168: dec 48 (k3, k2tog × 48: 216/... wait: k3, k2tog = 5 sts → 216/5 = 43.2 ✗)
k2, k2tog = 4 sts → 216/4 = 54 reps, dec 54 → 216-54 = 162. Not 168.
(k2tog, k1) alternating with k3... that's getting messy.

Let me try: 216 → 168: dec 48. 
For evenly spaced decreases: 216 sts, place dec every 216/48 = 4.5 sts → can't be perfectly even.
But! I can do: 24 repeats of (k3, k2tog) + 24 repeats of... no.

Actually: to decrease exactly 48 from 216: I could do:
(k3, k2tog) × 24 = decrease 24 → 192 (not 168) ✗
(k2, k2tog) × 54 but 54×4 = 216 and dec 54 → 162 ✗
(k1, k2tog) × 72 = dec 72 → 144 ✗

Hmm. Let me just try different intermediate values that work mathematically:

S: 252 → 180 → 120 → 84

252 → 180: dec 72. 252/72 = 3.5 → (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) × 36? Getting too complex.
Actually: dec 72 from 252 cleanly: k1, k2tog × 84 → dec 84 → 168 ✗. 
(k2tog, k2) × 63 = dec 63 → 189 ✗.

You know what, I think the issue is I'm trying to hit exact multiples of 12 at every step. Real patterns don't always do this. They design a chart that works for the starting stitch count and just decrease as needed, with the chart potentially having some adjustments.

Let me take a completely different, more practical approach used in real Icelandic patterns:

**PRACTICAL DECREASE APPROACH (used in real Riddari-style patterns)**:
- The decreases are planned based on the total yoke depth and the visual result
- Decrease rounds are labeled and the number of decreases per round is given per size
- The colorwork chart is designed to accommodate these counts
- Intermediate stitch counts just need to be close to multiples of the pattern repeat; minor adjustments can be made within the chart

Let me plan the yoke with approximate decreases and trust that the colorwork chart works within those counts:

Actually, you know what — real Icelandic patterns often work very differently. Let me look at the actual Riddari structure:

Traditional Riddari (Lopi) yoke structure:
1. Join body and sleeves, no underarm shaping
2. Work 1-2 plain rounds
3. Decrease round 1 (sometimes called "the big decrease")
4. Begin main colorwork
5. Decrease round 2 (mid-colorwork)
6. Continue colorwork  
7. Decrease round 3 (end of colorwork or just after)
8. Plain section
9. Neck rib

The key is that the chart is designed so decreases fall at specific points (often at the boundary between major motif sections, or k2tog decreases are incorporated INTO the pattern so they're hidden in the geometry).

For this pattern, let me just plan clean decrease math and design the chart around it.

**FINAL CLEAN YOKE PLAN:**

Let me carefully design the decrease rounds:

Setup (after join): 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360

**Dec Rnd 1** (set up for main colorwork):
I want to reach a stitch count that's a multiple of 12, that's reduced about 14-17% from start.

S: 252 × 0.857 = 216 (decrease 36, k5 k2tog: 252/7 = 36 reps ✓)
M: 288 × 0.833 = 240 (decrease 48, k4 k2tog: 288/6 = 48 reps ✓)
L: 300 × 0.840 = 252 (decrease 48, k5 k2tog: 300/7 = 42.8 ✗; k5.25... ✗)
  Let me try L: 300 → 252 (dec 48): distribute 48 decreases evenly over 300 sts → every 6.25 sts → not clean.
  Try: 300 → 264 (dec 36, k7 k2tog: 300/8 = 37.5 ✗). 
  300 → 250 (dec 50, k4 k2tog: 300/6 = 50 ✓) → 250. But 250/12 = 20.83 ✗
  300 → 240 (dec 60, k3 k2tog: 300/5 = 60 ✓) → 240. 240/12 = 20 ✓!!!

Let me check all:
S: 252 → 216 (k5 k2tog × 36: 252 = 36×7 ✓, 216/12 = 18 ✓)
M: 288 → 240 (k4 k2tog × 48: 288 = 48×6 ✓, 240/12 = 20 ✓)
L: 300 → 250 (k4 k2tog × 50: 300 = 50×6 ✓) → 250/12 = 20.83 ✗. Or:
L: 300 → 240 (k3 k2tog × 60: 300 = 60×5 ✓, 240/12 = 20 ✓) — this is the same result as M after Dec Rnd 1! That means L yoke entry and M yoke entry look different but end up same — that's actually fine, or slightly different...

Wait, but the FINISHED sizes are different. If after Dec Rnd 1:
- M = 240 sts → 240/4.5 = 53.3" circumference at lower yoke
- L = 240 sts → same as M? That doesn't seem right for a fitted garment.

Oh wait — at the yoke, the circumference doesn't need to be the same as the body because the yoke is 3D — it sits around the shoulders and decreases toward the neck. The important thing is that the BODY circumference is different between sizes, not necessarily every point of the yoke. But still, the yoke should be proportionally larger for larger sizes. Having M and L at the same stitch count mid-yoke would make L fit tighter in the yoke.

Hmm. Let me try:
L: 300 → 252 (dec 48, evenly spaced). 
To space 48 decreases over 300 sts: 300/48 = 6.25. 
Method: work (k2tog, k4) × 48 = 288 sts reduced by 48 = but I started with 300 not 288.
Better: 300 = (k4, k2tog) × 48 + k12 leftover. Could do: 
- (k4, k2tog) × 48 = uses 288 sts → but wait: 48 × 6 = 288, not 300. I have 12 extra.
Let me say: work (k4, k2tog) 48 times. But 48 × 5 reduced = 240 from those 288 sts, leaving the extra 12 sts unworked... no that doesn't work right.

OK let me approach it differently: 

48 decreases from 300: group into 48 sections. 300/48 = 6.25 sts per section.
Some sections have 6 sts, some have 7. Specifically: 300 = 48 × 6 + 12 remainder. So 12 sections have 7 sts (k5, k2tog) and 36 sections have 6 sts (k4, k2tog). → 12 × 6 + 36 × 5 = 72 + 180 = 252 sts after decrease! And 252/12 = 21 ✓!

So Dec Rnd 1 for L: *(k5, k2tog) 12 times, (k4, k2tog) 36 times* → 252 sts ✓

Actually wait: 12 × (5+1) + 36 × (4+1) = 12×6 + 36×5 = 72 + 180 = 252 ✓
And start: 12×6 + 36×5... no: starting with 12×7 + 36×6 = 84 + 216 = 300 ✓

So the instruction would be: Work (k5, k2tog) × 12, (k4, k2tog) × 36 = 252 sts — but this isn't evenly distributed. A better instruction would be to evenly space these: alternating long and short sections.

Actually, in a real pattern you'd say something like: "Decrease 48 sts evenly spaced" and just state the resulting count. That's fine.

Let me just use that approach. For the pattern instructions, I'll say "decrease X sts evenly spaced" and give the resulting count.

Dec Rnd 1 results: 216 / 240 / 252 / 288 / 300

Check that all are multiples of 12:
- 216/12 = 18 ✓
- 240/12 = 20 ✓
- 252/12 = 21 ✓
- 288/12 = 24 ✓
- 300/12 = 25 ✓

Now Dec Rnd 2 (after main colorwork section, about mid-yoke):

Decrease ~17-20%:
S: 216 → 180 (dec 36, or *k4, k2tog* × 36: 216/6 = 36 ✓, 180/12 = 15 ✓)
M: 240 → 200 (dec 40: 240/6 = 40 ✓) → 200/12 = 16.67 ✗. Or 240 → 192 (dec 48: k3 k2tog: 240/5 = 48 ✓, 192/12 = 16 ✓)
L: 252 → 210 (dec 42: k4 k2tog × 42: 252/6 = 42 ✓, 210/12 = 17.5 ✗) Or:
   252 → 168 (too much) 
   252 → 192 (dec 60: k3 k2tog × 60: 252/5 = 50.4 ✗)
   252 → 204 (dec 48: 252/... 252 = 48×? → 252/48 = 5.25 ✗)
   252 → 216 (dec 36: k5 k2tog × 36: 252/7 = 36 ✓, 216/12 = 18 ✓) — this works but it's a smaller decrease than expected

XL: 288 → 240 (dec 48: k4 k2tog × 48: 288/6 = 48 ✓, 240/12 = 20 ✓)
2XL: 300 → 252 (dec 48: evenly as before, 300/... 300-48=252, 252/12=21 ✓)
     or 300 → 240 (dec 60: k3 k2tog × 60: 300/5 = 60 ✓, 240/12 = 20 ✓)

Let me reconsider. For Dec Rnd 2 (mid-yoke):

I want approx 15-20% decrease:

S: 216 → 180 (16.7% dec, k4 k2tog × 36: 216/6 = 36 ✓, 180/12 = 15 ✓)
M: 240 → 192 (20% dec, k3 k2tog × 48: 240/5 = 48 ✓, 192/12 = 16 ✓)
L: 252 → 216 (14.3% dec, k5 k2tog × 36: 252/7 = 36 ✓, 216/12 = 18 ✓)
XL: 288 → 240 (16.7% dec, k4 k2tog × 48: 288/6 = 48 ✓, 240/12 = 20 ✓)
2XL: 300 → 252 (16% dec, see above: 252/12 = 21 ✓)

After Dec Rnd 2: 180 / 192 / 216 / 240 / 252

Now Dec Rnd 3 (upper yoke, after upper colorwork border):

S: 180 → 120 (33% dec: k1 k2tog × 60: 180/3 = 60 ✓, 120/12 = 10 ✓)
M: 192 → 144 (25% dec: k2 k2tog × 48: 192/4 = 48 ✓, 144/12 = 12 ✓)
L: 216 → 144 (33% dec: same as S pattern) or → 162 (25%: 216/4 = 54, dec 54 → 162, 162/12 = 13.5 ✗)
   216 → 168 (22% dec: 216/... 216-168=48, k3 k2tog × 54 = starts 54×5=270≠216 ✗)
   216 → 144 (k1 k2tog × 72: 216/3 = 72 ✓, 144/12 = 12 ✓) 
XL: 240 → 168 (30% dec: 240-168=72: k2 k2tog × 60: 240/4 = 60, dec 60 → 180 ✗)
    240 → 180 (25% dec: k2 k2tog × 60: 240/4 = 60 ✓, 180/12 = 15 ✓)
2XL: 252 → 168 (33% dec: k1 k2tog × 84: 252/3 = 84 ✓, 168/12 = 14 ✓)
     or → 180 (dec 72: k2 k2tog × 63: 252/4 = 63 ✓, 180/12=15 ✓)

Let me try:
S: 180 → 120 (k1 k2tog × 60 ✓, 120/12 = 10 ✓) — 33% decrease, quite aggressive
M: 192 → 144 (k2 k2tog × 48 ✓, 144/12 = 12 ✓) — 25%
L: 216 → 144 (k1 k2tog × 72 ✓, 144/12 = 12 ✓) — 33%
XL: 240 → 180 (k2 k2tog × 60 ✓, 180/12 = 15 ✓) — 25%
2XL: 252 → 168 (k1 k2tog × 84 ✓, 168/12 = 14 ✓) — 33%

After Dec Rnd 3: 120 / 144 / 144 / 180 / 168

Now Dec Rnd 4 (just before neckband, or could be worked into neckband):

Target neck: 84 / 96 / 96 / 96 / 108

S: 120 → 84 (dec 36: k2 k2tog? 120/4 = 30, dec 30 → 90 ✗. k1 k2tog? 120/3 = 40, dec 40 → 80 ✗)
   Hmm. 120 → 84: dec 36. 120/36 = 3.33. Not clean even spacing.
   But: k2, k2tog = decrease 1 in 4 → dec 30 → 90 (90/12 = 7.5 ✗)
   Or: *k2tog, k1* × 30 + *k2* × 30 = tricky.
   
   Actually let me reconsider target neck sts:
   S: neck = 80 sts? 80/4 = 20 (for 2x2 rib). Or 84 = 7×12, or 88 = 22×4.
   
   From 120 to 80: dec 40. 120/3 = 40. *k1, k2tog* × 40 = 80 sts ✓ (80 div by 4 for 2x2 rib ✓)
   From 120 to 90: dec 30. k2, k2tog × 30 = 90 (90 div by 2 but not 4, ok for 1x1 rib)
   
   Let me use S: 120 → 84 with uneven approach: 
   Actually 36 out of 120: every 120/36 = 3.33 sts... 
   Could do: (k2, k2tog) × 12 + (k3, k2tog) × 24 = 12×3+24×4 stitch use = 36+96=132 ✗
   
   Hmm, let me change S after Dec Rnd 3 to 126 instead of 120:
   S: 180 → 126 (dec 54: k2 k2tog × 45: 180/4 = 45 ✓, 126/... 126/12=10.5 ✗)
   
   This is getting really complicated. Let me just accept that the final Dec Rnd 4 might use "decrease X sts evenly" instruction and the neck sts don't need to be multiples of 12.

Actually, let me completely rethink the neck stitch counts to make the math work cleanly:

After Dec Rnd 3: 120 / 144 / 144 / 180 / 168

For Dec Rnd 4, let me find what clean decreases give:

S: 120:
- *k2, k2tog* × 30 → 90 sts (for 2x2 neck rib: 90/4 = 22.5 ✗, for 1x1: 90/2 = 45 ✓)
- *k1, k2tog* × 40 → 80 sts (80/4 = 20 ✓) 
- Skip Dec Rnd 4 and use 120 as neck? (too many for worsted weight neck)
→ Best: 80 sts (k1, k2tog × 40 ✓)

M: 144:
- *k2, k2tog* × 36 → 108 sts (108/4 = 27 ✓) 
- *k3, k2tog* × 36 → 108 → wait: k3 k2tog × 36 = 36×5 = 180 ≠ 144. ✗
- k1 k2tog × 48 → 96 sts (96/4 = 24 ✓) ← Use this

L: 144 → 96 (same as M: k1 k2tog × 48 ✓)

XL: 180:
- k2 k2tog × 45 → 135 (too many)
- k1 k2tog × 60 → 120 (120/4 = 30 ✓)
- Actually: *k3, k2tog* × 36 → 36×4=144 ≠ 180. ✗
- k3 k2tog × 45: 45×5 = 225 ≠ 180 ✗
- k2 k2tog × 45: 45×4 = 180 ✓ → 180-45 = 135 (135/4 = 33.75 ✗ for 2x2 rib)
- k1 k2tog × 60: 60×3 = 180 ✓ → 120 sts (120/4 = 30 ✓) ← Use this
- Or: for a wider neck: 180 → 108 (dec 72: k1 k2tog × 60 = 120, or...)
  Actually 180 → 108: 180/4 = 45, k2 k2tog × 45 = 135 ✗

Let me just go with:
S: 120 → 80 (k1, k2tog × 40)
M: 144 → 96 (k1, k2tog × 48)
L: 144 → 96 (k1, k2tog × 48)
XL: 180 → 120 (k1, k2tog × 60) — that's quite a wide neck (120 sts / 4.5 spi = 26.7" circumference). That's way too big.

Hmm, the XL neck of 180 sts before Dec Rnd 4 is a problem. 180/4.5 = 40" diameter... wait, circumference. 180/4.5 = 40" neck circumference? No, that's before the final decrease. After dec rnd 4:

Oh wait, I'm confusing myself. Let me recalculate what these stitch counts represent in terms of actual measurements.

At 4.5 sts/inch:
- After Dec Rnd 3: 
  - S: 120 sts = 26.7" circumference (this is mid-upper-yoke)
  - M: 144 = 32"
  - L: 144 = 32"  
  - XL: 180 = 40"
  - 2XL: 168 = 37.3"

Hmm, 40" at XL upper yoke seems large. The whole yoke construction needs to make more sense here. The issue might be that my decrease rounds aren't aggressive enough.

Let me rethink the entire yoke from scratch with cleaner numbers. I'm going to use a practical approach that prioritizes fit and workability over perfect multiples of 12 everywhere.

**COMPLETELY REVISED YOKE PLAN:**

Gauge: 4.5 sts/inch, 6 rnds/inch

For a circular yoke sweater, the yoke depth (from underarm to neck) is:
- S: ~9" 
- M: ~9.5"
- L: ~10"
- XL: ~10.5"
- 2XL: ~11"

In rounds: 54 / 57 / 60 / 63 / 66 rnds

Starting yoke sts: 252 / 288 / 300 / 336 / 360 (after setup round)
Target neck sts: let me use 80 / 84 / 92 / 96 / 104 — multiples of 4

No wait, let me just make all neck sts = 80 for S, 88 for M, 92 for L, 96 for XL, 104 for 2XL — no, these aren't easy multiples.

Let me use: 80 / 88 / 96 / 96 / 104 — all multiples of 8.

Actually for a 2x2 rib neck, I want multiples of 4. For a 1x1 rib, multiples of 2. Let me use:
S: 80 sts → 80