purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
- Hat construction: bottom-up, worked in the round
- Three distinct zones: ribbed band (bottom) → dragon scale body → mermaid tail top
- Ribbed band: ~8 stitches deep using back-loop-only (BLO) single crochet for classic rib effect, or slip stitch rib. I'll use a slip stitch rib worked in rows then seamed, OR BLO hdc rib worked flat and seamed for sturdier result. Actually, for a hat ribbed band worked in the round the cleanest method is: work the rib flat (in rows, back and forth) then join ends and pick up stitches along the long edge. Let me use that classic approach — work rib flat in BLO slip stitch or BLO sc rows, seam into a tube, then pick up along the edge.
- Actually, simpler and more beginner-friendly for intermediate: Work the ribbed band in the round in BLO hdc, ~8 rows/rounds of BLO hdc gives a nice rib effect.
- Wait — BLO hdc in the round doesn't give a true rib, it gives a textured ring pattern. For actual rib effect in the round, work back-and-forth rows and seam. Let me use that approach: Rib worked flat in rows (FLO/BLO sc alternating for rib OR just BLO sc), then seam.

Let me think more carefully:
- **Classic crochet rib**: Work rows of sc in BLO only, back and forth. The ridges run horizontally relative to the hat, which mimics knit rib visually. The rib is "8 stitches deep" = 8 rows tall. The rib wraps around the hat circumference.
- Start: chain the circumference (e.g., 72 ch for worsted weight adult hat), then work in the round in joined rounds.
- Actually cleanest: Work the hat body top-down, OR work bottom-up starting from the rib.

Let me go **bottom-up**:
1. Rib band: Work flat rows of BLO sc, 8 rows, number of rows = circumference, seam. Then rotate and work into the long edge.
2. Dragon scale body: Work in joined rounds, increasing as needed for the crown, using the dragon scale stitch (shell stitch variation creates scale effect).
3. Top/Crown: Decrease to close.
4. Mermaid tail: A separate piece worked flat and attached, OR a point/flap on top.

Wait — "mermaid tail on top" — this is an interesting request. A mermaid tail on top of a hat would be like a fin or tail fluke shape sticking up from the crown. This is a decorative 3D element. Let me think of this as a flat flap or two panels worked and seamed to create a tail fluke shape on top.

**Dragon scale stitch**: The classic "crocodile stitch" or "dragon scale" — worked in pairs of dc fanned around a stitch post. Let me use the crocodile stitch which is the most well-known "dragon/fish scale" crochet stitch.

**Crocodile Stitch overview**:
- Foundation round: create "v" posts (pairs of dc with space between) 
- Scale round: work dc fans around each pair of posts
- This creates overlapping scales

For a hat:
- After rib band, establish the crocodile stitch pattern rounds
- Work several pattern repeats going up the body
- Crown decreases need to be integrated carefully

**Sizing**: Adult average head circumference = 21–23 inches. Let's target 22 inches finished circumference with ~2 inches of negative ease, so 20–21 inches actual. 

**Gauge for worsted**: 
- With a 5mm (US H/8) hook: sc gauge ~16 sc / 4 inches, dc gauge ~14 dc / 4 inches
- Crocodile stitch gauge: approximately 4 scale repeats ≈ 4 inches wide, 2 scale rows ≈ 3 inches tall (varies by hook/yarn)

Let me work with worsted weight, 5mm (H/8) hook or 5.5mm (I/9) hook.

**Crocodile stitch math**:
- Each "stitch unit" (v-stitch pair) = 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in same stitch, worked every 4 stitches approximately
- Actually for crocodile stitch: Foundation row has v-stitches spaced 4 stitches apart, then scales are worked on top
- Standard crocodile stitch multiple = 6 stitches (ch 3 between v-stitches typically)

Let me nail down the crocodile stitch structure:
- Foundation: *dc, ch 2, dc in same st (v-stitch), skip 2 sts* repeat — so multiple of 3 sts to place v-stitches + ch 2 between
- Scale: 5 dc around each post going down, ch 1, then 5 dc around the second post going up — creates a fan/scale

For a hat body worked in rounds:
- Foundation round: ch 3 (counts as dc), [dc+ch2+dc in same st = V-st] every 4 sts?

Let me use a tested crocodile stitch hat formula:

**Standard approach**:
- Use a multiple of 6 for crocodile stitch
- For adult hat: 60-stitch base works well (60 ÷ 6 = 10 scale units per round)
- Or 72 stitches (72 ÷ 6 = 12 scale units per round)

Let me use 72 stitches for a worsted weight adult hat.

**Crocodile stitch (Simplified definition)**:
- Row 1 (foundation): *V-st (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, skip 2 sts, rep from *, join
- Row 2 (scales): Work 5 dc down the first post of V-st, ch 1, work 5 dc up the second post — this creates the scale. Move to next V-st.

Actually for the in-the-round version, alternate rows of foundation and scales offset by half a repeat.

Let me use a concrete, well-tested approach:

**Hat Construction**:

Sizes: Adult S/M (fits 20–21" head) and Adult L/XL (fits 22–23" head)

Yarn: Worsted weight, ~150-200 yards main color + small amount of contrast for tail

**Round gauge with 5.5mm hook, worsted**:
- sc: approximately 14 sc = 4 inches
- hdc: approximately 12 hdc = 4 inches  
- Crocodile scale: 1 scale unit ≈ 1.5 inches wide

**Rib band**: 
- Worked flat in BLO sc: 8 rows high, number of stitches = circumference
- For 20" hat: 70 stitches along long edge ÷ something...

OK, let me simplify and restructure:

**Construction choice**: Work rib flat (back-and-forth in BLO sc), seam into tube, then work hat body upward from the rib. This gives clean ribbing.

**Rib math**:
- Rib depth = 8 stitches (8 rows of BLO sc)
- Rib circumference row count = head circumference in stitches
- With 5.5mm hook, worsted sc gauge: ~14 sc / 4 inches = 3.5 sc/inch
- For 21-inch circumference: 21 × 3.5 ≈ 73.5 → round to nearest multiple of 6 = 72 stitches
- For 22-inch: 22 × 3.5 = 77 → round to 78 (13 × 6 = 78) 
- Let me use 72 stitches for S/M

So rib: Chain 9 (8 stitches of rib + 1 for turning chain), work 72 rows of BLO sc (each row = 8 stitches), seam row 72 to foundation chain = tube with 72 "ridges" = 72 stitches around.

Wait, let me reconsider. The rib depth is "8 stitches deep" — this means the ribbing section is 8 stitches tall when viewed on the hat, meaning 8 rows of the ribbing stitch. Since ribbing is worked flat in rows and then seamed, the number of rows of ribbing becomes the circumference and the number of stitches per row becomes the depth/height.

So:
- Cast on/chain: 9 (for 8 working stitches, since turning chain doesn't count)
- Work 72 rows → seam into tube
- Pick up 72 stitches along the long edge
- Work hat body upward

**Hat body (Dragon Scales - Crocodile Stitch)**:

Working in joined rounds, with 72 stitches:
- 72 ÷ 6 = 12 crocodile scale repeats per round

Crocodile stitch setup:
- **Foundation Round (V-stitch round)**: *V-st (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, skip 2 sts* × 24 = 24 V-stitches? No wait.

Actually let me reconsider the math: 
- If each crocodile scale uses a pair of V-stitches spaced 3 apart, and I need to interlock them...

Standard crocodile stitch in the round:
- **Set-up Round 1**: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st (first half of V-st), *skip 2 sts, [dc, ch 2, dc] in next st* repeat — Actually this creates V-sts every 3 sts.

Let me use a multiple of 4 instead for simplicity:
- 72 ÷ 4 = 18 V-stitch pairs

Hmm, different designers use different multiples. Let me choose one system and be consistent.

**Crocodile Stitch System I'll Use**:

Setup: Need pairs of dc posts that are 2 stitches apart (or 1 stitch apart with a ch-1 or ch-2 between them).

**Foundation Round**: 
- [dc, ch 2, dc] in same stitch = V-stitch
- Skip 3 sts between V-stitches
- 72 sts ÷ 4 sts per repeat = 18 V-stitches (but 4 × 18 = 72 ✓)
- Wait: 1 st for V-st + 3 skipped = 4 sts per repeat, 18 repeats × 4 = 72 ✓

**Scale Round**:
- Each scale is worked over ONE V-stitch: 
  - Work 5 dc around the first (right) post going downward
  - Sl st or ch 1 at bottom
  - Work 5 dc around the second (left) post going upward
  - This creates 1 scale per V-stitch
- 18 scales per scale round

**Offset Round** (for staggered scales):
- Foundation round 2 offset by 2 sts from Round 1
- V-stitches placed in the skipped spaces between scales

This gives beautiful overlapping dragon scales!

**Crown Decrease Section**:
After enough scale rounds, transition to simple dc decrease rounds leading to the crown.

**Hat Body Dimensions**:
- Average hat body height (above rib, below crown point): ~5-6 inches
- Crown: ~2 inches
- Total hat height target: ~10-11 inches with rib
- Rib: ~2 inches (8 rows BLO sc ≈ 2 inches at standard gauge)

**Crocodile Scale dimensions** (worsted, 5.5mm):
- 1 scale row ≈ 1.5-2 inches tall
- So 3 scale rows = 4.5-6 inches of body height ✓

**Crown**:
After completing scale rows, transition to sc rounds and decrease evenly to close the top.

**Mermaid Tail on Top**:
- Worked separately and sewn to the top of the hat, OR integrated into the crown
- A mermaid tail fluke = two lobes on either side with a notch in the middle
- Construction: Work flat, increasing then decreasing to form a pointed oval, work two of these, join them at the base, add a center notch effect
- Or: Work a flat piece in two halves that fans out

Let me design a simple mermaid tail fluke:
- Work a chain of about 20 sts
- Row 1: work dc across = 18 dc (chain 3 counts as dc)
- Increase rows to widen
- Shape into pointed lobes
- Seam the flat piece and sew to top of hat

Actually, here's a cleaner design for the mermaid tail:
- Close the hat crown normally but leave a small opening OR close completely
- Create tail fluke: Two pointed fan shapes sewn together at the base
- Each lobe: Start with a magic ring or chain, work 3 rows of dc increases (shell-like), then taper
- The two lobes join at a seam in the middle
- The whole tail sits on top of the hat

**Mermaid Tail Fluke Construction**:
- Make 2 lobe pieces
- Lobe: Chain 4, join to ring, round 1: 8 dc (8), round 2: [2 dc, dc] × 4... 

Hmm, let me think about this differently. A tail fluke is flat, like a fish tail - fan-shaped with a notch.

**Simpler Tail Fluke**:
- Chain 5, 
- Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in next ch (3 dc), ch 3, turn
- Row 2: 2 dc in first dc, dc in next, 2 dc in last dc (5 dc)
- Row 3: 2 dc in first, dc in each to last, 2 dc in last (7 dc)
- Row 4: 2 dc in first, dc in each to last, 2 dc in last (9 dc)
- Continue until desired width (about 11-13 dc)
- Fasten off, make a second piece
- Hold together, sl st the two long edges together at the base
- This creates a wide flat piece
- Then add the tail notch by stitching a "V" shape in the center or by crocheting a center dividing seam

Actually even simpler: Make ONE piece, work it out to full width, then split it into two halves, working each lobe separately.

**Final Mermaid Tail Design**:
1. Work a rectangle/trapezoid: Chain 21, work 4 rows of dc (increasing on each side for slight flare)
2. Divide in half (leave center stitch/sts unworked or decreased)
3. Work left lobe: continue 3 rows, decreasing to a point
4. Work right lobe: rejoin yarn, continue 3 rows, decreasing to a point
5. Seam the base to the top of the hat

This gives a clear bifurcated tail shape.

**Tail math**:
- Base chain: 21 sts → 19 working dc in row 1
- Split: 9 sts each side + 1 center st decreased away
- Each lobe: work 3 rows decreasing (dc2tog at outer edge each row)
- Final lobe: 6 sts

This is a good, achievable design.

**Sizes**:
Let me offer one size (Adult S/M) with notes for modification, to keep the pattern clean and focused.

Head circumference target: 21–22 inches (worn with about 1" negative ease from a ~22-23" head)
Finished circumference: ~21 inches

With gauge at 5.5mm hook:
- sc/BLO sc: 14 sts / 4" and 16 rows / 4"
- dc: 12 sts / 4" and 8 rows / 4"

Let me recalculate with these numbers:
- 14 sc/4" = 3.5 sc/inch
- For 21" circumference: 21 × 3.5 = 73.5 → round to 72 (nearest multiple of 4: 72 ÷ 4 = 18 ✓)

**Rib rows**: 
- 8 rows BLO sc height: 8 rows / (16 rows/4") = 8/4 = 2 inches of ribbing ✓
- Rib stitch count per row = 8 sts (8 sts deep = 8 stitches tall on the hat = 8 rows per the BLO sc rib)
- Number of rib rows = 72 (to create 72 stitches around the circumference)
- So: chain 9 (turning chain + 8 working sts), work 72 rows of BLO sc, sl st last row to first row edge to form tube

Wait, I need to double-check: when ribbing is worked flat with 8 stitches per row and the rows run horizontally (becoming the circumference), the long edge of the ribbing becomes the brim of the hat. So we pick up along the long edge = 72 edge stitches (1 per row = 72).

Row count for circumference: 72 rows along the long edge = 72 pick-up stitches ✓

**Crocodile Stitch Body**: 
Foundation round: 72 sts, make 18 V-stitches (each uses 4 stitches: 1 for V-st placement + 3 skipped = 4 per repeat, 18 × 4 = 72 ✓)

Actually, V-st takes 1 stitch of the base, skip the next 2, then next V-st... hmm:
- Pattern: [V-st in st, skip 2 sts] repeat
- Each repeat consumes: 1 st worked + 2 sts skipped = 3 sts
- 72 ÷ 3 = 24 V-stitches

Let me reconsider: 72 ÷ 3 = 24 V-stitches, each scale uses 1 V-stitch, so 24 scales per round. That's actually better - more scales = more defined pattern.

But then offset round needs to start between V-stitches... Let me think:
- Round 1 foundation (V-stitch round): 24 V-sts (each = dc, ch 2, dc) placed every 3 stitches
- Scale round: 24 scales made
- Round 3 foundation (offset): V-sts placed in the gaps between scales (offset by 1.5 sts = between two scales)

For the offset to work cleanly: after the scale row, there should be a stitch between each pair of scales where we can place the offset V-stitches.

The "3-stitch multiple" version works well. After the scale round, we work a stabilizing sc round OR the top of each scale presents natural stitch placement spots.

Let me use the well-documented approach:

**Crocodile Stitch in the Round (my tested version)**:

**Foundation Round A** (even rows):
- *[dc, ch 2, dc] in next st, skip 2 sts* × 24 (24 V-stitches made)
- Note: This consumes all 72 sts of the base round (24 × 3 = 72 ✓)

**Scale Round**:
- For each V-stitch: work 5 dc down the first post, ch 1, work 5 dc up the second post = 1 scale
- 24 scales made
- At end of scale row, chain to transition to next round

**Transition/Stabilizing Round**:
- Sc around the scale tops (each scale top = 2 dc tops visible), or skip this and go straight to Foundation Round B

**Foundation Round B** (offset):
- Work V-stitches offset by 1.5 stitches — this means placing V-sts in the ch-2 space of the previous foundation round's ch-1 between scales... 

Hmm, this is getting complex in the description. Let me use the most commonly used version that's well-documented:

**Method**: Use the ch-1 space between scale sections for offset V-stitches:

After Scale Round:
- The ch-1 at the bottom of each scale provides a natural "gap"
- New V-stitches are worked in these ch-1 spaces and the gaps between scales
- This creates the stagger

OK I think the cleanest approach for a written pattern is to specify it explicitly with stitch placement. Let me write it very clearly.

**Final math for the body**:

With 72 sts, multiple of 6 is cleaner for some crocodile stitch variations. 72 ÷ 6 = 12.

Let me switch to a multiple-of-6 system:
- **Foundation Round**: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, *skip 2 sts, [dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc] in next st (3-dc shell), skip 2 sts, [dc, ch 1, dc] in next st (V-st)* — too complicated.

OK, I'm overcomplicating this. Let me just use the proven crocodile stitch hat approach that's used in popular patterns:

**The Tried-and-True Crocodile Stitch for Hats**:

Work with a foundation of V-stitches (dc, ch 2, dc) spaced so scales interlock.

For worsted weight, the simplest version:

**Base round**: 60 stitches (multiple of 5: 60 ÷ 5 = 12 repeats)
- Hmm, 60 would be a slightly smaller hat

For 21-22" circumference with dc gauge:
- dc gauge: ~12 dc / 4" at 5.5mm
- 12 dc/4" = 3 dc/inch
- 22" × 3 = 66 dc — round to 66 (multiple of 6 = 66, 66÷6=11)... or 60 (multiple of 6, 60÷6=10)

Actually, with the ribbing, the hat will have some stretch, so slightly fewer stitches is fine.

Let me use **60 stitches** for the body:
- 60 ÷ 5mm hook dc gauge check: 60 ÷ (12dc/4") = 60/3 = 20" circumference — a bit small
- Better: 66 sts = 22" — multiple of 6 = 66 ✓ (11 × 6)
- Or 72 sts = 24" circumference in dc, but in crocodile stitch the fabric pulls in, so 72 is better target

Let me settle on **72 stitches** for the hat body, worked in crocodile stitch.

Actual circumference will be slightly less than 72 dc due to scale stitch compression — targeting ~21-22" finished.

**Crocodile Stitch with 72 stitches**:
- 72 ÷ 6 = 12 scale units per row (using 6-stitch multiple)
- Foundation: [V-st, sk 2, sc or sl st in next, sk 2] × 12? That's 6 sts per repeat × 12 = 72 ✓

But this gives only half-stagger...

You know what, let me just use the well-documented 4-stitch multiple and adjust:
72 ÷ 4 = 18 repeats, but let me keep 72 and use multiple of 3 = 24 scales per round.

**I'll go with this definitive plan**:

**MULTIPLE OF 4 SYSTEM** (clean and simple):
- 72 sts ÷ 4 = 18 scale units
- Foundation Row: *[dc, ch 2, dc] in next st, skip next 3 sts* × 18 (18 V-sts) 
  - Each repeat: 1 worked st + 3 skipped = 4 sts; 18 × 4 = 72 ✓
- Scale Row: Over each V-st, work scale (5 dc down first post, ch 1, 5 dc up second post)
- Offset Foundation Row: After scale row, work V-sts shifted by 2 stitches (into the ch-2 spaces between scales)
- Second Scale Row

This creates the staggered scale pattern!

**Height of body**:
- Each pair of scale rows ≈ 2 inches (worsted, 5.5mm)
- Work 3 pairs = 6 inches of scales
- Crown decrease: ~2 inches
- Rib: ~2 inches
- Total hat height: ~10 inches ✓ (standard adult hat = 9-11 inches)

OK wait. I realize I need to be more careful about how the offset V-stitches are placed after the scale row, because the scale row changes the stitch landscape significantly. Let me describe this very concretely:

After Scale Round 1:
- Each scale has a ch-1 at its base and exposed dc tops
- The "gap" between scale bases is the natural offset position
- For offset V-sts: work [dc, ch 2, dc] in the ch-1 space at the BASE of each scale (between the two adjacent dc posts of the previous foundation)

Wait, the ch-1 is AT the base of the scale, between the two posts. So placing V-sts in these ch-1 spaces, plus skipping the exposed tops of each scale, would offset the pattern by half a repeat.

Let me think about this differently and just write it so it makes sense:

**Round-by-round for crocodile stitch body**:

After rib tube, join yarn to pick up 72 sts around top edge of rib.

**Round 1** (establish base): sc in each st around (72 sc), join, ch 1. [72 sts]

**Round 2** (Foundation Round 1): 
- Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st (first V-st started), skip 3 sts, *[dc, ch 2, dc] in next st, skip 3 sts* × 17, ch 2, join to top of ch-3.
- = 18 V-stitches total
- Wait: first repeat starts ch 3 + dc in same = V-st in st 1, skip sts 2,3,4, V-st in st 5, skip sts 6,7,8, V-st in st 9...
- Pattern: [V-st, skip 3] × 18 = 4 sts per repeat × 18 = 72 ✓

**Round 3** (Scale Round 1):
- For each of the 18 V-sts: work 5 dc down first post, ch 1, 5 dc up second post
- Join. (18 scales)
- Note: "Down" = working toward the base; "Up" = working back toward the top
- 18 scales × (5 + 1 + 5) = 198 sts visible in this round (but for pattern purposes we track by scale count)

**Round 4** (Foundation Round 2 - offset):
- Sl st into first sc base between scales to reposition, OR work from top of scales
- Need to place V-sts offset from Round 2
- After Scale Round, the top of each scale (the uppermost dc tips) and the gaps between scales are the working landscape
- Work V-st in the gap between scale 1 and scale 2 (= the skipped 3 sts area from Round 2, but elevated by scale height)
- Actually: join yarn at the top-center between two scales (at approximately the 2nd skipped st position in Round 2, but at the scale height)

Hmm, this is where I need to be precise. The offset V-sts in Round 4 should be centered between the Round 2 V-sts.

**Standard Approach for Offset in Crocodile Stitch**:
After the scale round, instead of working into actual stitches from the original base, work into the ch-2 spaces OF THE SCALES (the tip or base areas), OR work a sc stabilizing round and then place V-sts offset.

For simplicity in the written pattern, let me add a **stabilizing sc round** between each scale row and next foundation row:

**Round 4**: sc around working into the tops of the scales:
- Over each scale: [sc in dc, sc in dc, sc in dc, sc in dc, sc in dc] over first set of 5 dc tops = 5 sc, [sc in ch-1 sp] = 1 sc, [sc in dc × 5] = 5 sc (second fan) = 11 sc per scale? No, this creates too many stitches.

Actually the cleanest approach for an intermediate pattern is:

After Scale Row, work the FOUNDATION stitches only at the TOPS of each scale (the 2-3 dc visible at the top of each scale) and in the gaps.

I think the clearest way to write this is:
- After Scale Round, ch 3, turn (or continue in round) and place the offset V-sts in the ch-1 spaces between the two fans at the bottom of each scale AND/OR in specific positions.

Let me look at this from a practical standpoint and use a well-known method:

**Practical Crocodile Stitch Method for In-the-Round**:

**Foundation Rounds**: Work rows of paired dc posts (V-stitches) in the round
**Scale Rounds**: Work scales over each pair of posts

For the OFFSET:
- Round 2 V-sts: positions 1, 5, 9, 13... (every 4th stitch)
- Round 4 V-sts: positions 3, 7, 11, 15... (offset by 2 = shifted half a repeat)

To place V-sts at offset positions, I need to work into the fabric at those points. After the scale round, use sl sts to navigate to the correct starting position for the offset V-sts.

**The approach I'll use in the pattern**:

After Scale Round 1, work sl sts across 2 sts to position for offset Foundation Round 2, then work V-stitches offset.

OR, use a simpler but very effective approach: **work all crocodile rounds non-offset** (all scales aligned), then use color changes or slight design variation for the crown. Non-offset still looks like scales, just not staggered.

Actually, the STAGGERED look is very important for the "dragon scale" appearance. Let me use the proper method.

**FINAL DECISION on method**: 

I'll use the following well-tested method:

1. Foundation Round places V-stitches every 4 stitches
2. Scale Round works scales down/up each V-stitch
3. Next Foundation Round: after scale round, work sc around scale tops (adjusting count back to 72), then work OFFSET Foundation Round

For the sc stabilizing round after scales:
- Work 1 sc in the top of each dc of the scale tops (2 dc visible at top of each scale from each fan's top 2 dc)
- The scale tips have approximately 2-3 dc visible at the top
- So per scale: 2 sc tops from fan 1 + skip ch-1 + 2 sc tops from fan 2 = 4 sc per scale... then 0 sc in the between-scale gap
- But that gives 4 × 18 = 72... hmm, let me see: 18 scales × 4 sc = 72 sc ✓ Nice!

Then for offset Foundation Round: V-sts placed offset by 2 from previous foundation V-sts.

OK this is getting very long in planning. Let me just commit to the full plan and write the pattern.

**COMPLETE PLAN**:

**Materials**: 
- Worsted weight yarn, ~200-250 yards MC (main color)
- ~50 yards CC (contrast color for mermaid tail - optional)
- Hook: 5.5mm (I/9) for body, 5mm (H/8) for rib (optional, can use same hook)
- Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

**Gauge**: 
- 14 sc = 4 inches, 16 rows sc = 4 inches with 5.5mm hook
- Crocodile scale: approx 2 scales wide × 2 scales tall = 4" × 2" (approx)

**Sizes**: One size (adult average, 21-22" circumference)
- Worked to fit 22-23" head with ~1-2" negative ease (stretch of rib and scale stitch)

**Construction**: 
1. Rib band worked flat (8 st wide × 72 rows), seamed into tube
2. 72 sc picked up along top edge of rib
3. Crocodile scale body worked in joined rounds (~3 scale row pairs)
4. Crown decreases 
5. Mermaid tail fluke made separately and sewn on

**Abbreviations**:
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- beg = beginning
- rem = remaining
- V-st = (dc, ch 2, dc) in same stitch or space
- Scale = crocodile scale stitch (5 dc around first post, ch 1, 5 dc around second post)
- sk = skip
- tog = together
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (decrease)
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (decrease)
- MR = magic ring

**Special Stitches**:
- V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) all in same st or sp
- Crocodile Scale: Working around posts, not into tops — rotate work as needed:
  - Step 1: Work 5 dc around the RIGHT post (first dc of V-st), going DOWNWARD
  - Step 2: Ch 1 (at bottom, between the two posts)
  - Step 3: Work 5 dc around the LEFT post (second dc of V-st), going UPWARD
  - This forms one scale shape pointing downward
- BLO sc: sc worked through back loop only
- sc2tog: Insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, pull up loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

**STITCH COUNT VERIFICATION**:

Rib:
- Chain 9, turn → 8 BLO sc per row
- Work 72 rows → seam into tube = 72 "bumps" along long edge
- Pick up 72 sc along long edge ✓

Foundation Round (V-sts):
- 72 sts available
- [V-st in next st, skip 3 sts] × 18 = 18 × (1 + 3) = 72 ✓
- Results in: 18 V-stitches

Scale Round 1:
- 18 scales worked (one per V-st)
- No stitch count change — scales are worked around posts, adding on top

Stabilizing Round after Scale Round 1:
- Need to bring stitch count back to manageable number for offset
- Work sc into specific positions — 4 sc per scale = 72 sc? 
  - Per scale: sc in top dc of right fan (1), sc in 2nd dc of right fan (1), sc in top dc of left fan (1), sc in 2nd dc of left fan (1) = 4 sc per scale? But what about the gap between scales?
  - If there's a gap between scales (the original ch-2 space of the V-st), we work 2 sc in ch-2 sp = that's within the scale, not between
  - Between scales (original "skip 3 sts"): those stitches are now "under" the scale, not accessible on top
  
Actually wait — the scale is like a leaf that lays over the top. The fabric BELOW the scale has stitches but they're covered/inaccessible. The accessible stitches after a scale round are the tops of the 5+5 dc fans.

For each scale (working from right to left as they appear):
- The right fan has 5 dc — the top dc (dc5 = closest to top of hat), dc4, dc3 are most accessible
- The left fan has 5 dc similarly
- Between scales, there's a gap at the top where the V-sts were (the ch-2 area) — this is actually at the BOTTOM of the space between two adjacent scales at their joined-at-top area

Hmm. In practice, after working a round of crocodile scales in the round:
- Each scale "points down" (the ch-1 base points to the hat brim)
- The "top" of each scale is where the two fans' upper dc sts are
- Between two adjacent scales, there's a small "pocket" at the top

For the stabilizing SC round:
- sc in top of fan 1 of scale (the uppermost dc of first fan) 
- sc in between scales (in the space/gap between top of scale 1 and top of scale 2)
- sc in top of fan 2 of scale
This gives 3 sc per scale × 18 scales = 54 sc — that's fewer than 72

OR just work into accessible stitches:
For each scale:
- 2-3 sc in the tops of the visible dc + 1-2 in gaps = varies

This is getting complicated. Let me use a MUCH SIMPLER approach for the stabilizing round:

**Simplified approach**: After each scale round, work a foundation round for the NEXT ROW OF SCALES by working into the ch-1 spaces AT THE BASE of each scale (which actually sticks out somewhat between scales at the brim side), AND into the gap between adjacent scales at the TOP.

For the **offset V-sts** (Foundation Round B):
- The ch-2 space OF each scale's inner pocket (between the two fans) provides a natural spot
- V-st worked into the gap between scales at the TOP (between top-left dc of scale 1 and top-right dc of scale 2)

For 18 scales in Round A → 18 offset V-sts in Round B (worked in the gaps between scales) ✓

Stitch count: The "gaps between scales" at the top = there are 18 gaps between 18 scales (in a circle) = 18 positions for offset V-sts ✓

So the pattern becomes:
- Foundation Round A: 18 V-sts (every 4th st, at st 1, 5, 9, 13...)
- Scale Round 1: 18 scales
- Foundation Round B: 18 V-sts (in the gaps between scales = offset by approximately 2 sts from Round A V-sts)
- Scale Round 2: 18 scales
- [Repeat Foundation A and Scale, Foundation B and Scale as needed]

But how do I get from Scale Round 1 to Foundation Round B? I need to describe navigating to the top of the hat fabric and working into the gaps between scales.

After Scale Round 1, the working yarn is at the end of the last scale. I need to sl st to the top of the gap between scale 18 and scale 1, then begin Foundation Round B there.

**OK, I think the cleanest written approach is**:

After Scale Round, do NOT fasten off. Sl st to navigate to the first gap between scales at the top of the round, then ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same gap (= first V-st of offset), continue.

Let me commit to this and write it clearly in the pattern.

**ALTERNATIVE SIMPLER APPROACH** that I might use to keep it accessible:

Use a "modified crocodile stitch" where:
1. All scales point in the same direction (no offset needed) — this still looks like scales
2. Work foundation round of V-sts, work scale round, then work ANOTHER foundation round IN THE SAME POSITIONS (no offset), work another scale round on top

This creates a "shingled scales" look rather than staggered, which actually looks MORE like dragon scales (like real dragon scales that are aligned, not staggered). 

BUT TRUE dragon scales (like crocodile stitch) ARE staggered. However, for the pattern's readability and the fact this is "intermediate" difficulty, maybe the non-staggered version is appropriate.

Actually, let me just use the proper staggered crocodile stitch but write it very clearly. This is intermediate difficulty and most intermediate crocheters can handle it if it's written well.

**FINAL FINAL PLAN** (I need to stop second-guessing and commit):

**CONSTRUCTION**:
- Rib: flat in rows, 8 rows × 72 rows, seamed
- Body: 72 sts in round, crocodile scales (staggered), 3 rows of scale repeats
- Crown: sc decrease rounds
- Tail: flat, separate piece, sewn on

**STITCH COUNTS THROUGH THE HAT**:

Rib pick-up round: 72 sc [72]
Foundation Round 1: 18 V-sts (in round, consumes 72 base sts) [18 V-sts = effectively working over 72 sts]
Scale Round 1: 18 scales [18 scales]
Foundation Round 2 (offset): 18 V-sts in gaps [18 V-sts]
Scale Round 2: 18 scales
Foundation Round 3: 18 V-sts (back to original alignment OR continue offset)
Scale Round 3: 18 scales

For the top: After Scale Round 3, I need to get back to working in regular sts for the crown decrease.

Work a sc round at the tops of the scales:
- 2 sc in the top of each scale (1 in topmost dc of each fan) = 2 × 18 = 36 sc
- PLUS work in any gaps: between each pair of adjacent scale tops = 18 gaps → 1 sc each = 18 sc
- TOTAL: 36 + 18 = 54 sc — possible but awkward

OR just: work 3 sc across top of each scale = 3 × 18 = 54 sc [54]

Then decrease crown:
54 → 36 → 18 → 6 → close

Crown Round 1: [sc2tog, sc4] × 9 = 45 sts — hmm, 54 ÷ 6 = 9, so [sc2tog, sc4] × 9 = 9 × 5 = 45. Not great.
Better: 54 → [sc2tog, sc1] × 18 = 18 × 2 = 36 sts [36]
36 → [sc2tog] × 18 = 18 sts [18]
18 → [sc2tog] × 9 = 9 sts [9]
Pull through remaining 9 sts, close.

Actually the above decreases would work, but the math is more complex.

Let me try: After Scale Round 3, work ONE sc round to establish a clean base:
- Work 1 sc in each accessible top of each scale: each scale has ~4 visible top dc (2 from each fan), so 4 × 18 = 72 sc

Then for this to work I need to confirm: each scale fan has 5 dc worked around a post. The dc sts of the fan graduate from bottom to top. The TOP dc of each fan (dc5, the one worked last/highest up on the post) is the most accessible. If I work 2 sc in the top area of each fan (the top 2 dc), that's 4 sc per scale = 72 sc from 18 scales ✓.

**So after Scale Round 3**:
Post-Scale Stabilizing Round: 4 sc per scale = [72 sc] ✓ — back to 72 sts!

Crown Decreases from 72 sts:
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc4] × 12 = 12 × 5 = 60 sts [60]
Round 2: [sc2tog, sc3] × 12 = 12 × 4 = 48 sts [48]
Round 3: [sc2tog, sc2] × 12 = 12 × 3 = 36 sts [36]
Round 4: [sc2tog, sc1] × 12 = 12 × 2 = 24 sts [24]
Round 5: [sc2tog] × 12 = 12 sts [12]
Round 6: [sc2tog] × 6 = 6 sts [6]

This gives a nice dome crown! 6 rounds of decreases is a bit much though. Let me reconsider.

For worsted weight, the crown should decrease more quickly:
72 → starting crown height goal: ~2 inches

With sc at 16 rows/4" = 4 rows/inch, 2 inches = 8 rounds.
But that's 6 decrease rounds + maybe 2 plain rounds at the top.

Or maybe only work 3-4 scale rows and then decrease:
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc4] × 12 = 60 [60] 
Round 2: [sc2tog, sc3] × 12 = 48 [48]
Round 3: [sc2tog, sc2] × 12 = 36 [36]
Round 4: [sc2tog, sc1] × 12 = 24 [24]
Round 5: [sc2tog] × 12 = 12 [12]
Round 6: [sc2tog] × 6 = 6 [6]
Fasten off, leave 8" tail, thread through 6 rem sts.

6 decrease rounds is fine for a hat. Let me verify the height:
6 sc rounds × (1 round / 4 rows per inch wait — at sc gauge 16 rows = 4 inches = 4 rows/inch)
6 rows × (4"/16 rows) = 6/4 = 1.5 inches of crown. That's a bit short/flat.

Hmm, maybe I should do fewer but larger decreases, or include some plain rounds:

72 sts:
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc10] × 6 = 66 [66]? No, 66 ÷ 6 = 11, so [sc2tog, sc9] × 6 = 6 × 10 = 60 [60]
Round 2: [sc2tog, sc8] × 6 = 6 × 9 = 54 [54]
Round 3: [sc2tog, sc7] × 6 = 6 × 8 = 48 [48] — hmm, this is too slow

Better: Decrease by 8 per round (working in multiples of 8 isn't ideal with 72)

72 ÷ 8 = 9 repeats:
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc7] × 9 = wait, 9 × 8 ≠ 72 — 9 × 8 = 72 ✓ — [sc2tog, sc6] × 9 = 9 × 7 = 63... 

Let me just check: [sc2tog, sc (n)] × 9, need (2 + n) × 9 = 72, so n = 6: (2+6) × 9 = 72 ✓
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc6] × 9 = 63 sts [63]... wait 9 × 7 = 63 ✓

Hmm, 63 isn't divisible by 9 to give whole numbers nicely... 63 ÷ 9 = 7, so:
Round 2: [sc2tog, sc5] × 9 = 9 × 6 = 54 [54] ✓

But 54 ÷ 9 = 6: Round 3: [sc2tog, sc4] × 9 = 9 × 5 = 45 [45]
45 ÷ 9 = 5: Round 4: [sc2tog, sc3] × 9 = 9 × 4 = 36 [36]
36 ÷ 9 = 4: Round 5: [sc2tog, sc2] × 9 = 9 × 3 = 27 [27]
27 ÷ 9 = 3: Round 6: [sc2tog, sc1] × 9 = 9 × 2 = 18 [18]
18 ÷ 9 = 2: Round 7: [sc2tog] × 9 = 9 [9]
Thread tail through 9 sts.

But there's an issue: from 72 to 63 first is a small decrease, then bigger ones. 7 crown rounds is a bit much. Let me combine:

**Simpler crown with 12-decrease units**:
72 ÷ 12 = 6 sts per section
Round 1: [sc2tog, sc4] × 12 = 12 × 5 = 60 [60] 
60 ÷ 12 = 5: Round 2: [sc2tog, sc3] × 12 = 12 × 4 = 48 [48]
48 ÷ 12 = 4: Round 3: [sc2tog, sc2] × 12 = 12 × 3 = 36 [36]
36 ÷ 12 = 3: Round 4: [sc2tog, sc1] × 12 = 12 × 2 = 24 [24]
24 ÷ 12 = 2: Round 5: [sc2tog] × 12 = 12 [12]
Round 6: [sc2tog] × 6 = 6 [6]
Thread tail through 6 sts.

This works perfectly! 6 crown rounds, decreasing by 12 each time (except last two). Clean math ✓

Height: 6 rounds sc ≈ 6/4 inches = 1.5" ... still a bit flat. Actually that's fine for a hat crown which naturally shapes itself.

Wait — is the hat tall enough overall? Let me tally:
- Rib: 8 rows BLO sc = 8 × (4"/16 rows) = 2" 
- Body: Foundation + Scale + Foundation + Scale + Foundation + Scale = 3 pairs
  - Each scale row height: ~1.5-2" (crocodile scales are chunkier than standard rows)
  - Actually one scale = the height of about 4-5 dc ≈ 1.5"
  - 3 scale rows = 4.5" (scales are worked in pairs — foundation + scale = one unit)
  - Foundation rounds are fairly thin (1 dc height) ≈ 0.5" each
  - 3 foundation rounds (before/between scales) = ~1.5" 
  - Total scale section: ≈ 6"
- Crown: 6 rounds sc ≈ 1.5"
- Total: 2 + 6 + 1.5 = 9.5" ✓ (standard adult hat ~10")

That works!

**MERMAID TAIL FLUKE**:

Let me design this carefully. A mermaid tail fluke has:
- A wider base (where it connects to the body/hat top)
- Two lobes that flare out and come to gentle points
- A notch/curve cut in the center between lobes

Construction (flat piece, worked in rows):
- Start at the center notch, work each lobe outward
- OR start at the base and split into two lobes

I'll go with: Work base row, then split into two lobes.

**Lobe A and Lobe B**:
- Foundation: Ch 21
- Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and across = 18 dc + ch-3 counts as dc = 19 dc total? 
  Wait: ch 21, dc in 4th ch = 18 dc worked + ch-3 = 19 stitches but ch-3 counts as 1 dc = 19 sts total? 
  No: ch 21, dc in 4th ch from hook (that's ch 4 from end = using ch 18-21 positions)... 
  
  Let me restart: Chain 21.
  Dc in 4th ch from hook: that leaves ch 1-3 as turning chain (ch3 = counts as dc)
  Number of chains from #4 to #21 = 21-4+1 = 18 chains worked into
  + ch-3 counts as first dc = total 19 dc in Row 1
  
  Hmm, I want an ODD number so I can split evenly with a center st to decrease/notch.
  
  19 dc: split into 9 + 1(center) + 9
  
  Row 1: 19 dc [19]
  
  Actually for the mermaid tail I want it to be wider at the top and the base attaches to the hat:
  - Work NARROW at base (attaches to hat crown) 
  - Flare WIDER at top
  
  But a mermaid tail points UPWARD with the notch at the top and the base connecting to the hat... Let me think about the orientation:
  - When on the hat, the tail sits on top
  - The base (narrower part) connects to the crown of the hat
  - The lobes flare upward and outward
  - The notch is at the VERY TOP between the two lobes
  
  So construction: START NARROW (base, connects to hat), INCREASE TO WIDER (lobe area), SPLIT AT CENTER, TAPER EACH LOBE TO A POINT
  
  **Tail Construction**:
  - Chain for base: 12 sts (narrow base)
  - Row 1: dc across = 10 dc (ch-3 counts as first dc) [10 dc]
  - Row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first dc, dc across to last, 2 dc in last dc = 12 dc [12]
  - Row 3: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first dc, dc across to last, 2 dc in last dc = 14 dc [14]
  - Row 4: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first dc, dc across to last, 2 dc in last dc = 16 dc [16]
  - Row 5: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first dc, dc across to last, 2 dc in last dc = 18 dc [18]
  
  Now SPLIT for the two lobes (18 ÷ 2 = 9 sts each):
  
  **Right Lobe** (Rows 6-9):
  - Row 6: ch 3, turn, dc in next 8 sts = 9 dc (working on first 9 sts only) [9]
  - Row 7: ch 3, turn, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog = 8 dc [8] — decrease at the OUTER edge to shape
  
  Wait, I should be more careful about which edge decreases to create the lobe shape:
  - The INNER edge (center notch side) is where the notch forms — decrease here
  - The OUTER edge is the lobe point — decrease here too eventually
  
  For a lobe that comes to a curved point:
  - Decrease at inner edge: 1 dc2tog at the center-notch side every row
  - This naturally curves the lobe
  - Continue until 1-3 sts remain, then fasten off
  
  **Right Lobe**:
  - Row 6: ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts = 9 dc (on first 9 sts) [9]
    Wait, ch-3 counts as dc, so: ch 3 (=dc1), dc in next 7 = 8 dc + ch3 = 9 sts, but that's using 8 sts from base (ch3 + 7 regular dc). But I want to work on first 9 sts of row 5.
    
    Let me rewrite: Row 5 has 18 dc total.
    
    For right lobe: Work on sts 1-9.
    Row 6: Ch 3, turn, dc2tog (over sts 2 and 3... wait, ch-3 is in the same st as st 1)
    
    Hmm, let me be more explicit:
    Row 6 (right lobe): With RS facing, ch 3, turn, dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog over last dc of right lobe section and sl st ch = 9 sts, but this is awkward.
    
    Simpler approach for the lobe:
    
    After Row 5 (18 dc), split:
    
    **Right Lobe**:
    Row 6R: ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog [9 sts = 8 dc + ch-3]... wait.
    
    If ch 3 = first dc, then dc in next 7 = 8 dc so far, then stop = only 8 sts not 9.
    
    Let me count differently: ch3 + dc × 8 = 9 sts working on first 9 sts of row 5's 18 sts. Leave remaining 9 sts unworked. [9 sts]
    
    Row 7R: ch 3, turn, dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog = ch3 + 5dc + dc2tog = 7 sts (used 7 sts of 9 in row 6R: ch3 is in first dc, next 5 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc) [7]
    Row 8R: ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog = 5 sts [5]
    Row 9R: ch 3, turn, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog = 3 sts [3]
    Row 10R: ch 3, dc2tog = 2 sts [2] — actually ch3 + dc2tog = uses up 3 sts but only has 3... 
    Row 10R: ch 2, sc in last 2 dc (or dc2tog) = shape the tip
    
    Hmm, the count isn't working cleanly. Let me try a different approach:
    
    The tapering approach:
    Row 6R: 9 sts [9] - no decrease, just work on half
    Row 7R: dc2tog at start AND end = 7 sts [7]
    Row 8R: dc2tog at start AND end = 5 sts [5]
    Row 9R: dc2tog at start AND end = 3 sts [3]
    Row 10R: dc3tog or two dc2tog down to 1 = 1 st [1]
    Fasten off
    
    Check: 9 → 7 → 5 → 3 → 1 ✓ (decreasing by 2 each row = dc2tog at both ends)
    
    With ch-3 as first dc:
    Row 7R: ch 3, turn, dc2tog over sts 2-3, dc in each to last 2 sts, dc2tog [7] 
    (Ch3=st1, dc2tog=uses sts 2&3, dc dc dc = sts 4,5,6, dc2tog=sts 7&8... but wait that's 8 sts in: ch3 works into st1, dc2tog into sts 2-3, dc into 4,5,6, dc2tog into 7-8 = uses 8 sts but row 6R had 9 sts... hmm)
    
    (9 sts: ch3=1, dc2tog=uses sts 2-3, dc=4, dc=5, dc=6, dc=7, dc2tog=uses sts 8-9 → result: ch3+dc2tog+4dc+dc2tog = 7 sts) ✓
    
    Row 8R: (7 sts: ch3=1, dc2tog=2-3, dc=4, dc=5, dc2tog=6-7 → ch3+dc2tog+2dc+dc2tog = 5 sts) ✓
    Row 9R: (5 sts: ch3=1, dc2tog=2-3, dc2tog=4-5 → ch3+dc2tog+dc2tog = 3 sts) ✓
    Row 10R: (3 sts: dc3tog? OR ch1, sc3tog = 1 st) ... ch 1, sc3tog = 1 sc [1]
    Fasten off
    
    Left Lobe (mirror):
    - Rejoin to st 10 of Row 5 (first unworked st of second half)
    - Work same as right lobe BUT working left to right: increases/decreases mirrored
    
    Actually since we're working rows back and forth, left lobe just starts from the remaining 9 sts and mirrors the same instruction.
    
    Row 6L: Rejoin yarn to 10th st of Row 5, ch 3, dc in next 8 sts [9]
    Row 7L: ch 3, turn, dc2tog, dc in each to last 3 sts, dc2tog [7]
    Wait — same instructions work because we turn at the end of each row, so "both ends" means same thing regardless of lobe.
    
    Actually the instructions ARE the same for both lobes:
    Row 6: 9 sts
    Row 7: 7 sts
    Row 8: 5 sts
    Row 9: 3 sts
    Row 10: 1 st
    
    The notch is just the GAP in the center where no stitches were worked (between row 6R last st and row 6L first st = center notch naturally forms). ✓

Now, edge finishing on the tail: Work a sc border all around both lobes for clean edges. Optionally add some "fin" texture — work sc or dc edging to define the lobes.

**Overall tail dimensions (worsted, dc)**:
- Width at base: ~10 dc × (4"/12dc) = 3.3" wide... 
  Wait: with 5.5mm hook, dc gauge = ~12 dc / 4" = 3 dc/inch
  Row 1 (10 dc): 10/3 = 3.3" wide
  Row 5 (18 dc): 18/3 = 6" wide at lobe area
- Height: 
  Rows 1-5: 5 rows × (4"/8rows) = 2.5" tall (base + flare)
  Rows 6-10: 5 rows × (4"/8rows) = 2.5" tall (lobes)
  Total tail height: ~5" tall above hat top ✓

That's a nice size for a decorative tail on top of a hat.

**MERMAID TAIL FINISHING**:
- After completing both lobes, work a sc border around the entire tail perimeter for a clean edge
- Fold the base in half (so Row 1 folds to meet Row 5's center or seam the base slightly) — actually no, the base should remain flat
- Sew the base of the tail to the crown of the hat — the narrow bottom (Row 1) side of the tail attaches to the hat top. The tail sticks straight up.

Wait — should I stuff the tail slightly? For 3D effect, a little stuffing or working the seam would help it stand up. Let me mention optional light stuffing.

Actually the tail might flop without support. Options:
1. Stuff lightly with fiberfill
2. Stiffen with starch
3. Wire in the base (not beginner-friendly)
4. Use a stiffer yarn or heavier crochet fabric

For the pattern, I'll make the tail pieces slightly thicker by working in a different stitch (like rows of dc AND a second layer sewed together, giving it double thickness). OR just say it naturally has some drape and suggest light stuffing.

Let me make the tail: Make 2 identical pieces (front and back) and sew together with a small amount of stuffing for body. This is clean and gives the best result.

So: Work tail piece TWICE (front and back), sew together around the edges leaving the base open, stuff lightly, close base and sew to hat top.

That's a great plan!

**COMPLETE TAIL CONSTRUCTION (revised)**:
Make 2 pieces total, then seam.

**Pattern summary for tail piece** (make 2):
- Ch 12
- Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across [10 dc = ch 3 counts as dc, 9 dc = 10 total]
  Wait: ch 12, dc in 4th ch (st 4), continue to last ch = dc in ch 4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12 = 9 dc + ch3 = 10 sts ✓
  
- Row 2-5: increase both ends: [+2 sts per row] = 10→12→14→16→18 sts
- Row 5: 18 sts [18]
- Right Lobe