purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**: Thunderbird 4 is the yellow submarine/underwater craft from the original Gerry Anderson TV series (1965). It has a distinctive shape: a rounded, somewhat torpedo-like yellow hull with a distinctive large circular front viewport/nose cone, side fins/hydroplanes, a rear propulsion unit, and the number "4" on the side. It's compact and chunky compared to the other Thunderbirds. As a softie (stuffed toy), I need to create a 3D knitted object that captures these key design features:
   - Main hull: elongated rounded body, roughly oval/torpedo shape
   - Distinctive large circular front "eye" or viewport (yellow with possible detail)
   - Side hydroplanes (flat fins on sides)
   - Top fin/dorsal element
   - Rear section with propulsion pod
   - Predominantly yellow with some grey/silver and black detailing
   - Number "4" - can be achieved with duplicate stitch or intarsia

2. **Construction Plan**: 
   - Main body: Knit in the round, from nose to tail, shaping with increases and decreases
   - The body is roughly like an elongated oval/egg shape that's somewhat flattened on the bottom
   - Fins/hydroplanes: Knit flat, attached to sides
   - Dorsal fin: Knit flat, attached to top
   - Rear propulsion pod: Knit separately, attached
   - Front viewport detail: Worked in contrast colour or duplicate stitch
   - Stuffed with toy stuffing
   - Working in worsted weight, targeting approximately 20-25cm (8-10 inches) long finished - a good softie size
   
   Let me think about the shape more carefully. TB4 is:
   - Roughly cylindrical/torpedo body
   - Wider in the middle, tapered at nose and tail
   - The nose has a large circular viewport
   - Side hydroplanes stick out horizontally
   - Has a raised section on top (cockpit area)
   - Rear has a large single thruster pod
   - Predominantly yellow

   Construction approach:
   - Body: Knit in the round, bottom-up (tail to nose), using increases then decreases
   - Work the raised cockpit section as part of the body or as a separate piece sewn on
   - Fins: Worked flat, picked up or sewn on
   - Front viewport: Duplicate stitch or contrast colour circle

3. **Quality Assurance**:
   - Need to ensure stuffing openings are accounted for
   - Fin attachment needs to be sturdy
   - Colour changes need to be planned carefully
   - Stitch counts need to be consistent
   - Must give clear shaping instructions
   - The body construction needs careful thought - TB4 is not perfectly round in cross-section, it's slightly wider than tall, with a flat-ish bottom section

4. **Final Calculations**:
   - Worsted weight: approximately 22 sts x 30 rows = 10cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch - let's use 22 sts and 30 rows per 10cm
   - Actually for a softie, let's use slightly smaller needles (3.5-4mm) to get a tighter fabric that holds stuffing well
   - With 3.5mm needles and worsted, approximate tension: 22 sts x 28 rows = 10cm
   - Target finished size: approximately 22cm (8.75 inches) long, 10cm (4 inches) wide, 8cm (3.25 inches) tall
   
   Let me plan the body more carefully:

   The body is worked in the round. TB4 shape:
   - Looking at it from the side: roughly elongated with the widest point about 40% from the nose
   - The nose is somewhat blunt/rounded
   - Cross-section is roughly oval (wider than tall)
   
   Let me plan a simpler construction that still captures the essence:
   
   BODY (worked in the round, nose to tail):
   - Cast on for nose section, increase to widest point, then decrease slightly for mid-section, then decrease for tail
   
   Actually, let me think of this differently. TB4's body:
   - Front (nose): Large rounded viewport, somewhat flat/rounded nose
   - Mid section: Widest part of hull
   - Rear: Tapers slightly, large thruster at very back
   
   Let me plan stitch counts:
   - Tension: 22 sts per 10cm = 2.2 sts per cm
   - Target circumference at widest: about 30cm → 66 sts (round to 64 for easy math, or 68)
   - Let's use 64 sts at widest point
   - Target circumference at mid-point/tail: about 52cm... 
   
   Wait, let me reconsider the dimensions. This is a softie, so proportions matter more than exact realism.
   
   Let me aim for:
   - Total length: ~22cm (about 9 inches)
   - Maximum width: ~10cm (4 inches) across
   - Maximum height: ~8cm (3 inches) tall
   
   With 22sts/10cm tension:
   - Circumference at widest ≈ (10 + 8) × 2 roughly, but since it's stuffed and roughly oval cross-section... 
   - Let's say circumference at widest ≈ 28cm → 28 × 2.2 = 61.6 → round to 60 sts
   
   Actually for a softie, the knitting stretches. Let me plan:
   - Cast on: 8 sts for nose
   - Increase to 60 sts over ~4cm (about 11 rows)
   - Work straight for about 8cm (about 22 rows)
   - Decrease back to cast-off for tail section
   
   Hmm, but the shape isn't symmetrical front to back. Let me plan this more carefully.

   BODY SHAPE PLAN:
   Row counts based on 28 rows = 10cm (so ~2.8 rows/cm)
   
   Section 1 - Nose cone: Start with magic loop 6 sts, increase to 24 sts over 6 rounds (about 2cm)
   Section 2 - Front hull: Increase from 24 to 56 sts over 8 rounds (about 3cm) 
   Section 3 - Mid hull (widest): Work 56 sts for about 20 rounds (about 7cm) - this is where the main body/cockpit section is
   Section 4 - Rear hull: Decrease from 56 to 32 sts over 6 rounds (about 2cm)
   Section 5 - Tail: Work 32 sts for about 6 rounds (about 2cm), then decrease for thruster attachment area

   Total length ≈ 2 + 3 + 7 + 2 + 2 = 16cm + the thruster adds more...

   Let me recalculate more carefully.

   Tension: 22 sts and 28 rows = 10cm in stocking stitch
   So: 1 row = 10/28 = 0.357cm per round
   And: 1 st = 10/22 = 0.455cm per stitch

   Target body: 22cm long
   Total rounds for body: 22 × 2.8 = 61.6 → approximately 60 rounds for body

   Let me plan sections:
   1. Nose: 8 rounds (about 2.9cm)
   2. Front increase: 8 rounds (about 2.9cm)  
   3. Main hull: 28 rounds (about 10cm) - main body with cockpit
   4. Rear taper: 8 rounds (about 2.9cm)
   5. Tail piece: 8 rounds (about 2.9cm)
   Total: 60 rounds = about 21.5cm ✓

   Stitch counts:
   Nose: CO 6 sts, increase to 36 sts (inc 5 sts every other round × 6 times = adds 30 sts over 12 rounds... this is getting complex)

   Let me simplify. For a softie, I'll use a more forgiving approach:

   Start at nose, cast on small number, increase rapidly, work main body, decrease for tail.

   REVISED PLAN - Using stocking stitch in the round:

   Nose section:
   - Begin with magic cast-on of 6 sts
   - Round 1: kfb all around = 12 sts
   - Round 2: knit
   - Round 3: [k1, kfb] around = 18 sts
   - Round 4: knit
   - Round 5: [k2, kfb] around = 24 sts
   - Round 6: knit
   - Round 7: [k3, kfb] around = 30 sts
   - Round 8: knit
   = 8 rounds, 30 sts (nose cone section ≈ 2.9cm)

   Front hull widening:
   - Round 9: [k4, kfb] around = 36 sts
   - Round 10: knit
   - Round 11: [k5, kfb] around = 42 sts
   - Round 12: knit
   - Round 13: [k6, kfb] around = 48 sts
   - Round 14: knit
   = 6 more rounds, 48 sts (total 14 rounds, ≈ 5cm from start)

   Main hull:
   - Rounds 15-42: knit all rounds (28 rounds ≈ 10cm)
   - 48 sts throughout
   = total 42 rounds from start, ≈ 15cm

   Rear taper begins:
   - Round 43: [k6, k2tog] around = 42 sts
   - Round 44: knit
   - Round 45: [k5, k2tog] around = 36 sts
   - Round 46: knit
   - Round 47: [k4, k2tog] around = 30 sts
   - Round 48: knit
   = 6 rounds, 30 sts (total 48 rounds, ≈ 17cm)

   Tail section:
   - Round 49: [k3, k2tog] around = 24 sts
   - Rounds 50-54: knit (5 rounds)
   - Round 55: [k2, k2tog] around = 18 sts
   - Rounds 56-58: knit (3 rounds)
   = 10 rounds, 18 sts (total 58 rounds, ≈ 20.7cm)

   Close tail:
   - Round 59: [k1, k2tog] around = 12 sts
   - Round 60: k2tog around = 6 sts
   - Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts
   = 2 rounds (total 60 rounds ≈ 21.4cm) ✓

   This gives a torpedo-shaped body. Total length ≈ 21-22cm. Width at widest: 48 sts / 2.2 × (circumference calculation):
   48 sts circumference = 48/2.2 = 21.8cm circumference. For a circle that would be diameter = 21.8/π = ~6.9cm. But when stuffed, it will spread out. That seems a bit narrow actually.

   Let me reconsider. TB4 is quite chunky/wide. Let me increase to 56 sts at widest.

   REVISED STITCH PLAN:

   Nose:
   - CO 6 sts
   - R1: kfb all = 12 sts
   - R2: knit
   - R3: [k1, kfb] = 18 sts
   - R4: knit
   - R5: [k2, kfb] = 24 sts
   - R6: knit
   = 6 rounds, 24 sts

   Front hull:
   - R7: [k3, kfb] = 30 sts
   - R8: knit
   - R9: [k4, kfb] = 36 sts
   - R10: knit
   - R11: [k5, kfb] = 42 sts
   - R12: knit
   - R13: [k6, kfb] = 48 sts
   - R14: knit
   - R15: [k7, kfb] = 54 sts
   - R16: knit
   = 10 rounds, 54 sts (total 16 rounds ≈ 5.7cm)

   Main hull:
   - R17-44: knit all (28 rounds ≈ 10cm)
   - 54 sts
   = total 44 rounds ≈ 15.7cm

   Rear taper:
   - R45: [k7, k2tog] = 48 sts
   - R46: knit
   - R47: [k6, k2tog] = 42 sts
   - R48: knit
   - R49: [k5, k2tog] = 36 sts
   - R50: knit
   = 6 rounds, 36 sts (total 50 rounds ≈ 17.9cm)

   Tail:
   - R51: [k4, k2tog] = 30 sts
   - R52-53: knit
   - R54: [k3, k2tog] = 24 sts
   - R55-56: knit
   = 6 rounds, 24 sts (total 56 rounds ≈ 20cm)

   Close tail:
   - R57: [k2, k2tog] = 18 sts
   - R58: knit
   - R59: [k1, k2tog] = 12 sts
   - R60: k2tog around = 6 sts
   = 4 rounds (total 60 rounds ≈ 21.4cm) ✓

   54 sts circumference = 54/2.2 = 24.5cm, diameter = 24.5/π = 7.8cm. When stuffed, the cross-section will be oval (wider than tall), so actual width ≈ 9-10cm. That works!

   Now let me also think about the shape more carefully. TB4 has a somewhat flattened bottom. For a softie, we can approximate this by working a flat bottom panel or just letting the stuffed shape be slightly oval. For simplicity, I'll work the body in the round and the natural seating position will flatten it slightly.

   Now for the other components:

   COCKPIT DOME (raised section on top of body):
   TB4 has a raised section/cockpit canopy on top of the forward part of the hull.
   - Work this as a separate piece, knit in the round (small dome)
   - Cast on 6, increase to about 24 sts, work 8 rows, sew to top of body
   - Use same yellow or slightly different shade with grey/transparent viewport detail

   VIEWPORT (front):
   The large circular viewport at the nose. This is worked as duplicate stitch or embroidered circle in grey/dark colour on the nose section. Or we can work it in a contrast colour during construction.

   Actually, since the nose is only 6-24 sts, by the time we have the full viewport visible it's around rounds 6-14. The viewport on TB4 is quite large - nearly the full width of the nose cone.

   I'll suggest working the viewport as duplicate stitch in grey/dark colour after completion, or as a contrast colour circle worked during the nose section.

   SIDE HYDROPLANES (fins):
   TB4 has pairs of horizontal fins/hydroplanes on each side.
   - Work flat as simple rectangles with slightly tapered ends
   - Upper pair: roughly triangular, pointing slightly forward/up
   - Lower pair: more rectangular
   
   For simplicity, I'll do two pairs of fins:
   - Large side fins: picked up from body or sewn on
   - Each fin: cast on 14 sts, work 8 rows in stocking stitch, decrease at outer edge

   Actually, let me look at TB4 more carefully in my memory:
   - TB4 has a distinctive profile
   - Front: Large circular viewport/claw section
   - Body: Yellow, somewhat streamlined
   - Side: There are what appear to be two pairs of horizontal fins/hydroplanes
   - Top: A raised cockpit section
   - Rear: Large single thruster/propulsion pod
   - At the very front there's also sometimes depicted a laser/cutter attachment

   Let me plan the fins more carefully:
   
   UPPER SIDE FINS (2, one each side):
   - Cast on 16 sts
   - Work 6 rows in stocking stitch
   - Dec 1 st each end every row for 4 rows = 8 sts
   - Cast off
   - Approx size: 16 sts = 7.3cm wide, 10 rows = 3.6cm tall
   
   LOWER SIDE FINS (2, one each side):
   - Cast on 12 sts
   - Work 4 rows
   - Dec 1 each end = 10 sts, work 2 rows
   - Cast off
   
   Actually, I'm overcomplicating this. Let me simplify the fins to be more craft-friendly:

   HYDROPLANE FINS (make 4):
   - Cast on 3 sts
   - Working in garter stitch, increase 1 st each end every other row until 15 sts
   - Work 4 rows straight
   - Dec 1 each end every row until 3 sts
   - Cast off
   - This makes a diamond/leaf shape
   
   Hmm, that's not quite right for TB4. The fins on TB4 are more like swept-back delta/swept wing shapes.

   Let me do:
   SIDE FINS (make 4):
   Cast on 15 sts
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk
   Row 4: purl
   Rep rows 3-4 until 5 sts remain
   Row: k2tog, k1, ssk (3 sts)
   Cast off
   
   This makes a simple pointed fin shape. With 15 sts CO and approx 6 decrease rows (pairs), that's about 10 rows total.
   Width: 15/2.2 = 6.8cm, Height: 10/2.8 = 3.6cm

   DORSAL FIN (make 1):
   Cast on 20 sts
   Work in stocking stitch
   Row 1: knit
   Row 2: purl
   Row 3: k2tog, k to end (decrease at one end only for swept look)
   Row 4: purl
   Rep rows 3-4 until 5 sts
   Cast off

   REAR THRUSTER:
   TB4's rear has a large cylindrical thruster pod.
   - Work as a cylinder: cast on 24 sts, work 12 rounds, decrease to close
   - Stuff lightly
   - Sew to rear of body
   
   FRONT CLAW/VIEWPORT SURROUND:
   Actually, looking at TB4 more carefully, it has a large disc-like front viewport that's quite prominent. The "nose" of TB4 is dominated by this large viewport. I should make this a feature.
   
   VIEWPORT RING:
   - Work as a flat circle in grey
   - Cast on 6, increase to 24 sts over 4 rounds
   - Work one more round, cast off
   - Sew flat over the nose section

   FRONT CLAW ARMS (optional - TB4 has extending claws):
   - Work as small I-cord, attached to either side of front viewport

   Now let me think about colours:
   - Main yellow: Approximately 200g of worsted weight yellow (let's say "sunshine yellow")
   - Grey: 25g for viewport, thruster details
   - Black: small amount for viewport window
   - White: small amount for number "4" and markings

   Actually looking at TB4, the viewport area/nose is more of a dark grey or gunmetal, contrasting with the yellow hull. The number 4 appears on the side in a darker colour or white.

   Let me now also think about the raised cockpit section. Looking at TB4:
   - There's a raised section/bubble canopy on the upper forward part of the hull
   - It's small and dome-like
   - Yellow (matches hull) with some window detailing

   For the pattern, I'll simplify slightly to capture the most distinctive features:
   1. Main yellow body (torpedo shape)
   2. Large grey front viewport (applied circle or worked in)
   3. Side hydroplane fins (4 fins)
   4. Dorsal fin on top
   5. Rear thruster pod
   6. Number "4" in duplicate stitch on sides

   Let me also consider the bottom of TB4 - it's somewhat flat. I could add a flat bottom piece or work a flat base, but for simplicity I'll let the stuffed shape naturally flatten.

   Now let me write up the actual measurements and verify everything:

   TENSION: 22 sts × 28 rows = 10cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch on 4mm needles

   FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
   - Body length: approximately 22cm (8.75 inches)
   - Body width at widest: approximately 10cm (4 inches) when stuffed
   - Body height at widest: approximately 8cm (3.25 inches) when stuffed
   - Total length including thruster: approximately 26cm (10.25 inches)

   YARN REQUIREMENTS:
   - Yellow (MC): worsted, approximately 180m (200 yards)
   - Steel grey (CC1): approximately 30m (33 yards)  
   - Black (CC2): approximately 10m (11 yards)
   - White (CC3): small amount for markings
   
   MATERIALS:
   - 4mm circular needles (or DPNs) for body (60cm/24 inch circular)
   - 3.5mm needles for fins (can use same or smaller)
   - Actually, let me use slightly smaller needles for tighter stuffed fabric
   - Let me say 3.5mm needles, tension 22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm
   
   Actually, for a softie it's better to use smaller needles than recommended for the yarn weight to get a tighter fabric. Worsted on 3.5mm or even 3.25mm will give a tighter fabric. Let me use 3.5mm.

   With 3.5mm needles and worsted:
   Tension: approximately 22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm

   So: 1 round = 10/30 = 0.333cm per round
   And: 1 stitch = 10/22 = 0.455cm

   Let me recalculate:
   
   BODY ROUND COUNTS (revised for 30 rows/10cm):
   - Total rows for 22cm: 22 × 3 = 66 rounds

   Nose section (target ~2.5cm = ~7-8 rounds):
   - CO 6 sts
   - R1: kfb all 6 = 12 sts
   - R2: knit
   - R3: [k1, kfb] 6 times = 18 sts
   - R4: knit
   - R5: [k2, kfb] 6 times = 24 sts
   - R6: knit
   = 6 rounds, 24 sts (about 2cm)

   Widening front hull (target ~4cm = ~12 rounds):
   - R7: [k3, kfb] 6 times = 30 sts
   - R8: knit
   - R9: [k4, kfb] 6 times = 36 sts
   - R10: knit
   - R11: [k5, kfb] 6 times = 42 sts
   - R12: knit
   - R13: [k6, kfb] 6 times = 48 sts
   - R14: knit
   - R15: [k7, kfb] 6 times = 54 sts
   - R16: knit
   = 10 rounds, 54 sts (total 16 rounds = 5.3cm from nose tip)

   Actually, I want to think about this differently. The viewport circle should be quite prominent on the nose. Having only 24 sts when the viewport ends (round 6) means the viewport is only about 24/2.2 = 10.9cm circumference = diameter of about 3.5cm. That's actually fine for the nose viewport - it would be a circle of about 3-3.5cm diameter on the face of the nose.

   But I want the viewport to be worked in colour while knitting, not just duplicate stitched, so I need to plan the colourwork:

   The viewport circle on TB4's nose: This is a large circular opening/window. Looking at the source: TB4 has a large circular porthole/viewport at the front that takes up most of the nose area. It could be worked in the nose section using a contrast colour for the surround, then dark/black in the centre.

   For simplicity in the pattern, I'll suggest:
   1. The nose section is worked in grey (CC1) for the viewport area
   2. A circle of black (CC2) is added via duplicate stitch or French knots in the centre for the viewport glass
   3. The body section is all yellow (MC)

   OR even simpler: Work the entire nose in yellow, then sew a grey disc over the nose area, with a black circle in the centre.

   Actually, let me think about TB4's actual appearance:
   - The front face of TB4 has a large circular viewport
   - The viewport takes up most of the front face
   - The viewport is surrounded by yellow hull
   - Inside the viewport is dark (window)

   Given the small scale, I think the best approach is:
   1. Knit nose in grey/silver (CC1) for rounds 1-6 (the viewport area)
   2. Switch to yellow (MC) at round 7 (hull color)
   3. Embroider a dark circle on the grey section for the viewport window
   4. OR: Simply embroider/sew on a felt viewport circle over the knitted nose

   Actually, the simplest most effective approach for a small softie:
   - Knit entire body in yellow
   - Felt/sew a grey circle on the nose for the viewport surround
   - Add a smaller black circle for the viewport glass
   - Alternatively: work rounds 1-8 in grey, then switch to yellow

   I'll go with working the nose section in grey then switching to yellow. The grey nose section (rounds 1-6 at 24 sts) will form the viewport face. Width of viewport = 24/(π × 2.2) = 24/6.9 = 3.5cm diameter approximately. Actually at round 6 the diameter of the circle would be... hmm, with 24 sts in a circle, circumference = 24 sts / 2.2 sts per cm = 10.9cm, diameter = 10.9/π = 3.5cm. That's a reasonable viewport size for a 22cm long submarine toy.

   I want to make the viewport a bit bigger. Let me extend the grey section further:
   - R1-12: Grey (CC1) - this gives 48 sts at max before switching
   - Then switch to yellow at R13
   
   Actually that would mean the entire nose/front section is grey and the yellow hull starts halfway up the body. That doesn't look right either.

   Let me look at this differently. On TB4, the front viewport is actually inset into the front face - it's like looking at a torpedo head-on and there's a big circular porthole. 

   Best approach for this softie:
   - Work body entirely in yellow
   - After completing and stuffing, sew on a disc of grey yarn (worked as a small flat circle) to the nose area
   - Add a black centre to the grey disc

   For the flat grey disc:
   - CO 4 sts, work in circular I-cord for a few rounds, then work short rows outward... 
   - Actually: Small flat circle: CO 6, KFB all (12), K1 round, KFB all (24), K1 round, KFB all (36) - this gives a flat circle to sew onto the nose.

   Hmm, but I'm making this too complicated. Let me just provide a clear embroidery/appliqué approach and keep the knitting straightforward.

   OK let me finalize my construction plan:

   **MAIN BODY** (yellow, worked in the round from nose to tail, 60-66 rounds):
   The nose will be worked with a small amount of grey at the start to suggest the viewport, then switch to yellow.

   Actually, you know what, let me just plan this clearly:

   Sections of TB4 softie:
   1. BODY (main piece) - worked in the round, nose to tail, all yellow except nose rounds in grey/silver
   2. REAR THRUSTER - small cylinder, worked in the round, grey, sewn to rear
   3. SIDE FINS × 4 - worked flat, yellow, sewn to sides  
   4. DORSAL FIN × 1 - worked flat, yellow, sewn to top
   5. VIEWPORT DETAIL - embroidered/duplicate stitch onto grey nose section
   6. COCKPIT SECTION - small dome, worked in the round, yellow, sewn to top of forward hull

   Now let me FINALIZE all stitch counts with the 30 rows/22 sts per 10cm tension on 3.5mm needles:

   ---

   BODY STITCH PLAN (final):

   Note: Multiple of 6 for easy increases/decreases

   Using 3.5mm 40cm circular needle or DPNs

   VIEWPORT/NOSE (grey CC1):
   Cast on 6 sts using magic loop or DPNs
   Round 1: [kfb] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 2: Knit
   Round 3: [k1, kfb] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 4: Knit
   Round 5: [k2, kfb] 6 times = 24 sts
   Round 6: Knit
   Round 7: [k3, kfb] 6 times = 30 sts
   Round 8: Knit
   = 8 rounds, 30 sts in grey
   Cut grey, join yellow

   NOSE/FRONT HULL (yellow MC):
   Round 9: [k4, kfb] 6 times = 36 sts
   Round 10: Knit
   Round 11: [k5, kfb] 6 times = 42 sts
   Round 12: Knit
   Round 13: [k6, kfb] 6 times = 48 sts
   Round 14: Knit
   Round 15: [k7, kfb] 6 times = 54 sts
   Round 16: Knit
   = Rounds 9-16 (8 rounds in yellow), 54 sts

   MAIN HULL (yellow):
   Rounds 17-44: Knit all sts (28 rounds, = 9.3cm)

   This is where the "4" will be embroidered in duplicate stitch on both sides.
   The cockpit section will be placed on top of the hull during rounds 20-36.

   REAR TAPER (yellow):
   Round 45: [k7, k2tog] 6 times = 48 sts
   Round 46: Knit
   Round 47: [k6, k2tog] 6 times = 42 sts
   Round 48: Knit
   Round 49: [k5, k2tog] 6 times = 36 sts
   Round 50: Knit
   Round 51: [k4, k2tog] 6 times = 30 sts
   Round 52: Knit
   = 8 rounds, 30 sts

   TAIL (yellow):
   Rounds 53-56: Knit (4 rounds)
   Round 57: [k3, k2tog] 6 times = 24 sts
   Rounds 58-59: Knit
   Round 60: [k2, k2tog] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 61: Knit
   
   STUFF THE BODY FIRMLY BEFORE CLOSING
   
   Round 62: [k1, k2tog] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 63: [k2tog] 6 times = 6 sts
   Cut yarn, thread through 6 sts, pull tight, fasten off.

   TOTAL ROUNDS: 63
   LENGTH: 63 rounds / 3 rows per cm = 21cm ✓

   Let me verify:
   - Rounds 1-8: 8 rounds × 0.333cm = 2.7cm (grey nose/viewport)
   - Rounds 9-16: 8 rounds × 0.333cm = 2.7cm (front hull widening) 
   - Rounds 17-44: 28 rounds × 0.333cm = 9.3cm (main hull) ✓
   - Rounds 45-52: 8 rounds × 0.333cm = 2.7cm (rear taper)
   - Rounds 53-63: 11 rounds × 0.333cm = 3.7cm (tail)
   TOTAL: 2.7 + 2.7 + 9.3 + 2.7 + 3.7 = 21.1cm ✓

   Width at 54 sts: circumference = 54/2.2 = 24.5cm, so when stuffed and flattened to oval cross-section approximately: width ≈ 9.5-10cm, height ≈ 7-8cm. This gives TB4 its characteristic wide-but-not-too-tall shape. ✓

   ---

   REAR THRUSTER:

   A cylinder. TB4's rear thruster is quite large relative to the hull.
   
   Cast on 30 sts using CC1 (grey) on 3.5mm DPNs.
   Join to work in the round.
   Rounds 1-14: Knit (= 4.7cm)
   Round 15: [k4, k2tog] 5 times = 25 sts
   Round 16: Knit
   Round 17: [k3, k2tog] 5 times = 20 sts
   Round 18: Knit
   Round 19: [k2, k2tog] 5 times = 15 sts
   Round 20: [k1, k2tog] 5 times = 10 sts
   Round 21: [k2tog] 5 times = 5 sts
   Stuff. Cut yarn, thread through 5 sts. Fasten off.

   The open cast-on end will be sewn to the rear of the hull.
   Circumference = 30/2.2 = 13.6cm, diameter ≈ 4.3cm
   Length: 14 rounds × 0.333cm = 4.7cm, total with tapering ≈ 7 rounds more = 2.3cm more = 7cm total for thruster. That might be too long. Let me shorten:

   Round 1-10: Knit (10 rounds = 3.3cm)
   Round 11: [k4, k2tog] 5 times = 25 sts
   Round 12: Knit
   Round 13: [k3, k2tog] 5 times = 20 sts
   Round 14: [k2, k2tog] 5 times = 15 sts
   Round 15: [k1, k2tog] 5 times = 10 sts
   Round 16: [k2tog] 5 times = 5 sts
   Stuff, close. Total: 16 rounds ≈ 5.3cm

   Wait, 30 sts cast on with 2.2 sts/cm gives circumference of 13.6cm, diameter = 4.3cm. But the hull tail is 24 sts (at rounds 53-63 before closing), circumference 24/2.2 = 10.9cm, diameter ≈ 3.5cm. The thruster should be similar in diameter or slightly smaller than the hull tail. Let me use 24 sts for the thruster to match better.

   REVISED THRUSTER:
   Cast on 24 sts (CC1, grey)
   Rounds 1-10: Knit (10 rounds = 3.3cm cylinder)
   Round 11: [k2, k2tog] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 12: Knit
   Round 13: [k1, k2tog] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 14: [k2tog] 6 times = 6 sts
   Stuff lightly. Close.
   Total: 14 rounds ≈ 4.7cm long, 24 sts wide (matching tail section width)

   Actually on TB4, the rear thruster is larger than the main hull at the point it attaches - it flares out. But for a softie, having it the same width as the tail is fine and easier.

   ---

   SIDE FINS (make 4):

   TB4 has two pairs of horizontal hydroplanes/fins on each side. In the original show they're angled slightly. For the softie:

   On 3.5mm needles, using yellow MC

   Large upper fins (make 2):
   Cast on 20 sts
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 18 sts
   Row 4: Purl
   Row 5: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 16 sts
   Row 6: Purl
   Row 7: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 14 sts
   Row 8: Purl
   Row 9: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 12 sts
   Row 10: Purl
   Row 11: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 10 sts
   Row 12: Purl
   Row 13: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 8 sts
   Row 14: Purl
   Row 15: k2tog, k to last 2, ssk = 6 sts
   Cast off

   Width: 20 sts / 2.2 = 9.1cm
   Height: 15 rows / 3 = 5cm
   
   Wait, these are knit flat so it's rows not rounds: 30 rows = 10cm, so 1 row = 0.333cm
   Height: 15 rows × 0.333 = 5cm

   Hmm, these fins are quite large. For a 22cm long submarine, 9cm wide fins would be about right. But since they're triangular (narrowing from 20 sts to 6 sts), the area is fine.

   But wait - do I need 4 fins total, or 2? Looking at TB4:
   - There are fins on each side, roughly like wings
   - Some depictions show a single pair of fins on each side (like wings from a fish)
   - Other depictions show two pairs

   For simplicity, let me do one pair of side fins (one on each side) that are slightly larger, plus two smaller lower fins.

   LARGE SIDE FINS (make 2):
   Cast on 18 sts
   Rows 1-4: Work in stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS)
   Row 5: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk = 16 sts
   Row 6: Purl
   Rep rows 5-6 until 4 sts remain
   Cast off.
   
   Starting 18 sts, decreasing 2 sts every 2 rows:
   18 → 16 → 14 → 12 → 10 → 8 → 6 → 4
   That's 7 decrease rows = 14 rows of decreasing + 4 rows straight = 18 rows total
   Width: 18/2.2 = 8.2cm, Height: 18 rows × 0.333 = 6cm
   
   These are placed horizontally on each side of the hull, at around rounds 25-30.

   SMALL LOWER FINS (make 2 or just describe as same as above but smaller):
   
   Hmm, let me just make all 4 fins the same shape but two sizes:

   Actually, looking at various TB4 references, the submarine has:
   - A pair of front hydroplanes (horizontal, on the sides, forward)  
   - A pair of rear hydroplanes (horizontal, on the sides, aft)
   - No dorsal fin (or a very small one)
   - The bottom is relatively flat

   OK for simplicity I'll do:
   - 2 × large side fins (forward hydroplanes)
   - 2 × small side fins (rear hydroplanes)
   - 1 × top ridge/cockpit area
   - Rear thruster

   FORWARD HYDROPLANES (make 2) - worked flat, yellow:
   Cast on 16 sts
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog = 14 sts
   Row 4: Purl
   Repeat rows 3-4 until 4 sts remain
   Row: ssk, k2tog = 2 sts
   P2tog. Fasten off.
   
   16 → 14 → 12 → 10 → 8 → 6 → 4 → 2 = 7 decrease repetitions = 14 decrease rows + 2 straight rows = 16 rows
   Width at base: 16 sts / 2.2 = 7.3cm
   Height: 16 rows × 0.333 = 5.3cm

   REAR HYDROPLANES (make 2) - worked flat, yellow:
   Cast on 10 sts
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog = 8 sts
   Row 4: Purl
   Row 5: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog = 6 sts
   Row 6: Purl
   Row 7: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog = 4 sts
   Cast off.
   
   Width: 10 sts / 2.2 = 4.5cm, Height: 7 rows × 0.333 = 2.3cm

   ---

   COCKPIT DOME:

   TB4 has a small raised cockpit/observation section on the top of the hull, near the front. It's a relatively small dome.

   Make as a small flat-bottomed dome:
   On 3.5mm DPNs, yellow MC
   
   Cast on 6 sts
   Round 1: kfb all = 12 sts
   Round 2: Knit
   Round 3: [k1, kfb] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 4: Knit
   Round 5: [k2, kfb] 6 times = 24 sts
   Rounds 6-8: Knit
   Round 9: [k2, k2tog] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 10: Knit
   Round 11: [k1, k2tog] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 12: [k2tog] 6 times = 6 sts
   Stuff. Close.
   
   Width: 24 sts / 2.2 = 10.9cm circumference, diameter ≈ 3.5cm
   Height: 12 rounds × 0.333 = 4cm
   
   Actually that seems quite tall. Let me make it flatter:
   
   Cast on 6 sts
   Round 1: kfb all = 12 sts
   Round 2: Knit
   Round 3: [k1, kfb] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 4: Knit
   Round 5: [k2, kfb] 6 times = 24 sts
   Rounds 6-7: Knit
   Round 8: [k2, k2tog] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 9: [k1, k2tog] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 10: [k2tog] 6 times = 6 sts
   Close without stuffing (sew flat to hull)
   
   Width: 24 sts max (3.5cm dia)
   Height: 10 rounds × 0.333 = 3.3cm - still a bit tall for a dome
   
   For a flat dome, work like this instead:
   Cast on 4 sts
   Round 1: kfb all = 8 sts
   Round 2: [k1, kfb] 4 times = 12 sts
   Round 3: [k2, kfb] 4 times = 16 sts
   Round 4: [k3, kfb] 4 times = 20 sts
   Rounds 5-8: Knit
   Round 9: [k3, k2tog] 4 times = 16 sts
   Round 10: [k2, k2tog] 4 times = 12 sts
   Round 11: [k1, k2tog] 4 times = 8 sts
   Round 12: [k2tog] 4 times = 4 sts
   Close after stuffing lightly.
   
   Max width: 20 sts / 2.2 = 9.1cm circ, diameter 2.9cm
   This is better for the cockpit dome.

   Actually, let me reconsider the cockpit dome. On TB4, the raised cockpit section is not a simple dome - it's more like a raised ridge along the top of the forward hull. For a softie, I'll simplify this to a small dome. Let me go with:

   COCKPIT DOME (make 1):
   - Small dome approximately 3-4cm diameter, 2cm tall
   - Worked in yellow to match hull, with a small grey window embroidered on top

   Cast on 6 sts on DPNs
   Round 1: kfb all = 12 sts
   Round 2: knit
   Round 3: [k1, kfb] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 4: knit
   Round 5: [k2, kfb] 6 times = 24 sts
   Round 6: knit
   Round 7: [k2, k2tog] 6 times = 18 sts
   Round 8: [k1, k2tog] 6 times = 12 sts
   Round 9: [k2tog] 6 times = 6 sts
   Stuff lightly. Close.
   
   Width: 24 sts circ = 3.5cm dia, Height: 9 rounds = 3cm
   That's actually OK for a cockpit dome. Not too big, not too small.

   ---

   Now let me also plan the VIEWPORT EMBELLISHMENT:

   The front viewport (the grey section at the nose) should look like a porthole/circular viewport. Options:
   1. Embroider a circle of satin stitch in black to represent the viewport glass within the grey section
   2. Use a small button in black/dark for the viewport centre
   3. Embroider a spiral or circular pattern

   I'll recommend: After completing the body, embroider a circle of chain stitch in black (CC2) on the grey nose section, approximately 2cm diameter, to represent the viewport glass. Fill with satin stitch or use a black button.

   ---

   Now for the "4" marking:

   The number 4 is on the sides of TB4. Given the small scale, I'll provide a duplicate stitch chart or describe how to embroider it.

   A number "4" in duplicate stitch, approximately 5 sts wide × 7 rows tall, placed on both sides of the hull in the main section (around rounds 25-30).

   I'll provide a simple chart for the "4":
   ```
   Row 7: . . X . .
   Row 6: . . X . .
   Row 5: X X X X X
   Row 4: X . X . .
   Row 3: X . X . .
   Row 2: . . X . .
   Row 1: . . X . .
   ```
   (Where X = duplicate stitch in white/black, . = yellow background)
   5 sts wide × 7 rows tall

   ---

   YARN QUANTITIES (estimates):

   Main body in yellow:
   - Body: 63 rounds, average about 40 sts × 1.5 = 60 sts equivalent = rough estimate
   - Let me calculate properly: at 54 sts max, with 28 rounds of max, plus shaping... 
   
   Rough estimate:
   - Rounds 1-8: average 18 sts × 8 = 144 sts of grey
   - Rounds 9-16: average 45 sts × 8 = 360 sts of yellow
   - Rounds 17-44: 54 sts × 28 = 1512 sts of yellow
   - Rounds 45-63: average 30 sts × 19 = 570 sts of yellow
   Total yellow: 360 + 1512 + 570 = 2442 sts for body
   
   At worsted weight (approximately 4 sts per cm of yarn, or 1m = 400 sts roughly... hmm this isn't quite right):
   
   Better approach: For a worsted weight softie of roughly this size, I know from experience:
   - A typical head-sized round toy uses about 100-120m
   - This body is larger and more elongated
   - Let's say approximately 150-180m of yellow for the body
   - Plus fins, cockpit, etc. add another 30-40m
   - Total yellow: about 200-220m
   
   Grey (CC1): thruster + viewport rounds = maybe 40-50m
   Black (CC2): embroidery only = 5-10m
   White (CC3): duplicate stitch = 5m

   I'll round up for safety:
   - Yellow (MC): 220m (approximately 100g of typical worsted)
   - Steel grey (CC1): 50m (approximately 25g)
   - Black (CC2): 15m
   - White (CC3): 10m

   ---

   Now let me compile all this into a coherent, well-written pattern.

   ABBREVIATIONS I'll use:
   - CO: cast on
   - BO/cast off: bind off
   - k: knit
   - p: purl
   - kfb: knit front and back (increase)
   - k2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
   - ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
   - p2tog: purl 2 together
   - st(s): stitch(es)
   - RS: right side
   - WS: wrong side
   - MC: main colour (yellow)
   - CC1: contrast colour 1 (steel grey)
   - CC2: contrast colour 2 (black)
   - CC3: contrast colour 3 (white)
   - WY: worsted yarn
   - DPN: double-pointed needle
   - MR: magic ring/loop
   - rep: repeat
   - pm: place marker
   - sm: slip marker

   Let me now think about whether I need a safety note. Yes - this is a softie/toy, so if intended for young children, use safety eyes and toy stuffing. However, given the advanced difficulty level, I should mention this.

   Safety note: If making for young children (under 3), avoid small parts like buttons. All embellishments should be securely sewn.

   ---

   Let me also think about the overall construction sequence for the PATTERN NOTES section:

   1. Knit body from nose (grey section) to tail in yellow
   2. Knit thruster separately in grey
   3. Knit 4 fins (2 large, 2 small) in yellow
   4. Knit cockpit dome in yellow
   5. Stuff body firmly
   6. Attach thruster to tail
   7. Attach fins to sides of body
   8. Attach cockpit dome to top of body
   9. Embroider viewport details on grey nose section
   10. Embroider "4" on both sides using duplicate stitch

   ---

   Let me also think about the COLOUR of the grey:

   TB4 is primarily yellow (#4 yellow). The viewport/nose area is a darker grey-blue or charcoal. The thruster section is often depicted as a darker yellow-brown or gunmetal grey. For the knitted version:
   - MC: Bright yellow / sunshine yellow
   - CC1: Steel grey / mid grey for viewport nose and thruster
   - CC2: Black or dark grey for viewport window embroidery
   - CC3: White for the "4" markings

   Some versions of TB4 show:
   - Black stripes around the body
   - "TB4" text
   - Various panel lines

   These can all be added with duplicate stitch or embroidery.

   ---

   OK, I think I have enough to write a complete pattern. Let me also quickly verify my key measurements one more time:

   TENSION: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm on 3.5mm needles

   BODY:
   - Total rounds: 63
   - Length: 63 / 3 = 21cm ✓ (target: 22cm, close enough)
   - Max circumference: 54 sts / 2.2 = 24.5cm → when stuffed, oval cross-section ≈ 9.5cm wide × 7.5cm tall ✓

   FINS:
   - Large (2): 16 sts × 16 rows → 7.3cm × 5.3cm ✓
   - Small (2): 10 sts × 7 rows → 4.5cm × 2.3cm ✓

   THRUSTER: 24 sts × 14 rounds → 10.9cm circumference (3.5cm dia) × 4.7cm long ✓

   COCKPIT DOME: 24 sts max × 9 rounds → 3.5cm dia × 3cm tall ✓

   FINISHED SIZE: Body 21cm + thruster ~5cm = total ~26cm (10.2 inches) ✓ This is a good size for a softie.

   ---

   One more thought: I should provide placement instructions for attaching all the pieces. Let me think about where each piece goes:

   On the body (63 rounds long, nose = round 1, tail = round 63):
   - The grey viewport section spans rounds 1-8 (nose end)
   - Main hull rounds 17-44 is where the body markings go
   - Large forward fins: Attach at approximately rounds 20-28 (about 6.7-9.3cm from nose) - this puts them in the forward third of the hull, which matches TB4's hydroplane placement
   - Rear small fins: Attach at approximately rounds 35-40 (about 11.7-13.3cm from nose) 
   - Cockpit dome: Attach to TOP of hull, centred over rounds 20-30
   - Thruster: Attach to TAIL end, centred over the closed tail section

   ---

   Now I realize I should also mention that the FINS should be sewn with their flat edge along the hull, not pointing outward from the tip. They should protrude horizontally from the sides.

   For the fin attachment: 
   - The fins are triangular (widest at base where cast on, narrowing to tip)
   - The cast-on edge (widest) is sewn along the hull
   - The fin protrudes perpendicular to the hull axis

   Wait, I've been calculating fins as if the cast-on is the base of the triangle attached to the hull. Let me re-examine:

   LARGE FINS: Cast on 16 sts (base), decrease to 2 sts (tip)
   - The base (16 sts, 7.3cm) is sewn along the hull
   - The fin sticks out perpendicular
   - Fin "height" (the length sticking out from hull) = 16 rows × 0.333cm = 5.3cm... 
   
   Wait, that's wrong. When sewn flat to the hull, the number of ROWS determines how far the fin sticks out (the "span"), and the stitch count of the base determines how much hull it covers (the "chord"). Let me reclarify:

   A fin knitted flat:
   - ROWS = the span (how far it sticks out from the hull)
   - STITCHES = the chord (how much hull length it covers)

   For a fin cast on 16 sts, knit for 16 rows before all decreases:
   - Chord (along hull): 16 sts / 2.2 = 7.3cm (how much hull the fin base covers)
   - Span (sticking out): 16 rows / 3 = 5.3cm (how far it sticks out)

   But the fin tapers from 16 sts (at hull attachment) to 0 sts (at tip). The rows are actually used for both the base portion AND the tapering.

   Let me reconsider. For the large forward fins:
   The base of the fin covers 16 sts / 2.2 = 7.3cm of hull length. But the fin shape as I've written it has the STITCHES decreasing (the fin's span doesn't increase, it's determined by the number of rows). 

   Actually the way I've written the fins:
   - Cast on 16 sts - this is the BASE (attached to hull) - 7.3cm
   - Each row I decrease 1 st each side
   - After 8 rows, I've decreased by 8 × 2 = 16 sts, ending at 0 sts

   So the fin shape is a isoceles triangle:
   - Base: 7.3cm (along the hull)
   - Height (span, sticking out from hull): 8 rows × 0.333cm = 2.7cm
   
   But wait, I have 16 rows total (4 straight + 8 decrease pair rows × 2 = ... let me recount):

   For the large forward fins as written:
   Cast on 16 sts
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog = 14 sts
   Row 4: Purl
   ... repeat rows 3-4 until 4 sts, then:
   ssk, k2tog = 2 sts, p2tog, fasten off.
   
   From 16 → 14 → 12 → 10 → 8 → 6 → 4 → 2 → 0: 7 decrease pairs = 14 decrease rows
   Plus 2 straight rows = 16 rows total
   
   Span: 16 rows / 3 = 5.3cm ✓
   But the triangle is:
   - Base (at cast on): 16 sts = 7.3cm
   - After 2 straight rows, starts decreasing
   - Final tip is 0 sts

   So the fin shape is more like a truncated triangle with a rectangular portion at the base:
   - Rectangular section: 2 rows × 16 sts = 7.3cm wide × 0.67cm deep
   - Triangular section: 14 rows = 4.7cm, tapering from 16 to 0 sts

   Overall this is a good fin shape - it has a small flat section at the base (attached to hull) and tapers to a point.

   For the attachment: The 16-stitch cast-on edge is sewn along the side of the hull. The fin projects out horizontally (perpendicular to the hull). 

   When I say sew the "cast-on edge along the hull," this means the fin's longest edge (7.3cm) is placed along the hull surface, and the fin extends outward.

   This does look right for TB4's side fins.

   One concern: the fin might look better if it sweeps back slightly (like a swept wing) rather than being a simple triangle. I can achieve this by making the decreases asymmetric:
   - Decrease only at the FRONT edge (creating a swept-back shape)

   SWEPT-BACK LARGE FORWARD FIN:
   Cast on 16 sts (bottom/inner edge will be sewn to hull)
   Row 1 (RS): Knit
   Row 2 (WS): Purl
   Row 3: k to last 2, k2tog = decrease only at back/tip edge = 15 sts
   Row 4: Purl
   Row 5: k to last 2, k2tog = 14 sts
   Row 6: Purl
   ... continue decreasing 1 st at end of every RS row until 2 sts
   Row 30: k2tog = 1 st, fasten off.
   
   From 16 → 1: 15 RS decreases = 15 × 2 rows = 30 rows
   Span: 30 rows / 3 = 10cm... that's quite long/large.
   
   Let me compromise - decrease 1 st at the back edge on every RS row:
   From 16 to 2: 14 decreases = 28 rows... still long.
   
   Maybe more useful would be:
   - Decrease 1 at back edge every row (RS and WS) 
   - 16 → 2: 14 rows
   - Span: 14 rows / 3 = 4.7cm, Width at base 7.3cm, narrowing to tip

   This creates a right-angled triangle (swept back):
   - Front edge (vertical, attached to hull at front): straight
   - Top edge (angled, sweeping back): diagonal
   - Back edge (against hull at back): at angle

   Actually for attachment to the hull, I think the simplest approach is the symmetric triangle. Let me keep it simple and just note that knitters can angle the fin slightly when sewing for a swept-back effect.

   OK I think I need to stop over-analyzing and just write the pattern now! Let me compile everything.

   ---

   FINAL PATTERN OUTLINE:

   **THUNDERBIRD 4 SOFTIE**
   
   Materials:
   - Yellow worsted (MC): 220m / 240 yards
   - Steel grey worsted (CC1): 50m / 55 yards  
   - Black worsted (CC2): 15m / 16 yards
   - White worsted (CC3): 10m / 11 yards
   - 3.5mm DPN set AND 3.5mm 40cm circular needle (or use 2 circulars / magic loop)
   - Stitch markers (4)
   - Tapestry needle
   - Toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill), approximately 150g
   - Optional: 2 × 12mm black buttons or safety eyes for viewport detail

   Tension: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm in stocking stitch on 3.5mm needles

   Finished size: Approximately 26cm (10.25 inches) total length (including thruster), 10cm (4 inches) wide, 8cm (3 inches) tall

   Difficulty: Advanced

   PATTERN SECTIONS:
   1. Main body (hull)
   2. Rear thruster
   3. Forward hydroplanes (large fins) × 2
   4. Aft hydroplanes (small fins) × 2  
   5. Cockpit dome
   6. Finishing & assembly

   ---

   Now let me reconsider one more time: I want to make sure the pattern reads clearly for an "advanced" knitter. I should include:
   - Clear stitch counts at end of each section
   - Notes about technique (magic loop, etc.)
   - Clear assembly instructions
   - Embroidery instructions

   I'll also include a note about the "4" on the side. In the original show, TB4 has a large "4" on both sides. I'll provide a simple duplicate stitch chart.

   ---

   Actually wait - I want to reconsider