purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**:
   - User requests a basic jumper (UK term for pullover/sweater) at beginner difficulty
   - Template: Fitted Set-In Pullover, worked flat in pieces, bottom up
   - Yarn weight: DK
   - Terminology: UK English, metric first, "tension" not "gauge", UK abbreviations
   - Difficulty: Beginner — language must be clear, minimal jargon, extra explanation where needed
   - Standard crew neck, stockinette body, k2p2 ribbing at cuffs and hem
   - 5 sizes: S (34-36"), M (38-40"), L (42-44"), XL (46-48"), 2XL (50-52")
   - Positive ease: ~2" (5 cm) for a comfortable fitted jumper suitable for beginners
   - Construction: Back first, then Front (with neck shaping), then two Sleeves, seamed together, neckband picked up and worked in the round

2. **Construction Plan**:
   - Worked flat in pieces: Back, Front, Sleeves (x2)
   - Back: Cast on, work k2p2 rib for 2.5" (6 cm), then stockinette to underarm, armhole shaping (set-in), shoulder shaping, back neck
   - Front: Same as back to underarm, armhole shaping, then front neck shaping begins ~2.5" before shoulders, shoulder shaping
   - Sleeves: Cast on at cuff, k2p2 rib 2.5" (6 cm), then stockinette with regular increases to underarm width, sleeve cap shaping
   - Assembly: Seam shoulders, set in sleeves, seam sides and underarms
   - Neckband: Pick up sts around neck, work k2p2 rib in the round for ~1" (2.5 cm), cast off in rib

3. **Quality Assurance**:
   - Ensure all stitch counts divisible by 4 for k2p2 rib at cast-on (or adjusted appropriately)
   - Armhole shaping must be set-in style (bind off at base, then decrease rows)
   - Sleeve cap must fit the armhole — sleeve cap height roughly matches armhole depth
   - Front neck width should be about 1/3 of the total back width
   - Shoulder bind-offs should be gradual (2-3 steps)
   - All increases/decreases must be clearly stated with row counts
   - Back neck must be shaped too (bind off centre sts, work shoulders separately)
   - Beginner language: define all abbreviations, explain seaming method
   - Check that sleeve increases result in correct number of sts at underarm
   - Neckband pickup count must be divisible by 4

4. **Final Calculations**:

**DK Tension (standard)**: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm (4") in stockinette on 4 mm needles

**Finished Chest Measurements (with ~5 cm / 2" positive ease)**:
- S: 34-36" bust → finished chest 38" (97 cm) → half-back = 19" (48 cm)
- M: 38-40" bust → finished chest 42" (107 cm) → half-back = 21" (53 cm)
- L: 42-44" bust → finished chest 46" (117 cm) → half-back = 23" (58 cm)
- XL: 46-48" bust → finished chest 50" (127 cm) → half-back = 25" (64 cm)
- 2XL: 50-52" bust → finished chest 54" (137 cm) → half-back = 27" (69 cm)

**Stitch counts (back/front each)**:
Sts per cm = 22/10 = 2.2 sts/cm

- S: 48 cm × 2.2 = 105.6 → 104 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- M: 53 cm × 2.2 = 116.6 → 116 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- L: 58 cm × 2.2 = 127.6 → 128 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- XL: 64 cm × 2.2 = 140.8 → 140 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- 2XL: 69 cm × 2.2 = 151.8 → 152 sts (div by 4 ✓)

Wait — let me reconsider. The finished chest = full circumference. Back + Front each = half the chest.

- S: Half chest = 97/2 = 48.5 cm → 48.5 × 2.2 = 106.7 → 108 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- M: Half chest = 107/2 = 53.5 cm → 53.5 × 2.2 = 117.7 → 116 sts (div by 4 ✓) — let me round to 120
- L: Half chest = 117/2 = 58.5 cm → 58.5 × 2.2 = 128.7 → 128 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- XL: Half chest = 127/2 = 63.5 cm → 63.5 × 2.2 = 139.7 → 140 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- 2XL: Half chest = 137/2 = 68.5 cm → 68.5 × 2.2 = 150.7 → 152 sts (div by 4 ✓)

Let me clean these up:
- S: 108 sts → half-chest = 108/2.2 = 49.1 cm → full chest = 98.2 cm ≈ 98 cm (38.5") ✓
- M: 120 sts → half-chest = 120/2.2 = 54.5 cm → full chest = 109 cm (43") ✓
- L: 128 sts → half-chest = 128/2.2 = 58.2 cm → full chest = 116.4 cm (45.8") ✓
- XL: 140 sts → half-chest = 140/2.2 = 63.6 cm → full chest = 127.3 cm (50.1") ✓
- 2XL: 152 sts → half-chest = 152/2.2 = 69.1 cm → full chest = 138.2 cm (54.4") ✓

Good. These are the cast-on stitch counts for back and front.

**Body Length to underarm**: Standard ~40-42 cm (16") including ribbing
- Ribbing: 6 cm (2.5") → 18 rows at 30 rows/10cm = 3 rows/cm × 6 = 18 rows
- Body (stockinette after rib): 36 cm (14") → 36 × 3 = 108 rows

**Armhole Shaping (Set-In)**:
Armhole depth:
- S: 18 cm (7")
- M: 19 cm (7.5")
- L: 20 cm (8")
- XL: 21 cm (8.25")
- 2XL: 22 cm (8.75")

Rows in armhole:
- S: 18 × 3 = 54 rows
- M: 19 × 3 = 57 rows
- L: 20 × 3 = 60 rows
- XL: 21 × 3 = 63 rows
- 2XL: 22 × 3 = 66 rows

Armhole shaping: bind off at base + decrease rows
Standard set-in: remove ~10-12% of sts at each side total
- S: 108 sts → remove ~11 sts each side → armhole sts removed: 11 each side
  - BO 4 sts, then BO 2 sts, then dec 1 each side every RS row × 5 = 4+2+5 = 11 ✓
  - Remaining sts: 108 - 22 = 86 sts

- M: 120 sts → remove ~12 sts each side
  - BO 4 sts, BO 2 sts, BO 1 st, dec 1 × 5 rows = 4+2+1+5 = 12 ✓
  - Remaining: 120 - 24 = 96 sts

- L: 128 sts → remove ~13 sts each side
  - BO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, BO 1 st, dec 1 × 5 = 5+2+1+5 = 13 ✓
  - Remaining: 128 - 26 = 102 sts

- XL: 140 sts → remove ~14 sts each side
  - BO 5 sts, BO 3 sts, BO 1 st, dec 1 × 5 = 5+3+1+5 = 14 ✓
  - Remaining: 140 - 28 = 112 sts

- 2XL: 152 sts → remove ~15 sts each side
  - BO 6 sts, BO 3 sts, BO 1 st, dec 1 × 5 = 6+3+1+5 = 15 ✓
  - Remaining: 152 - 30 = 122 sts

**Shoulder & Neck Width**:
Neck width: approximately 18-20 cm across (standard crew neck)
- Neck sts: 18-20 cm × 2.2 = 39.6-44 sts → use ~38-42 sts for neck (divisible by 4 ideally, but not strictly necessary for neck)

Let me work out shoulder sts:
After armhole shaping:
- S: 86 sts. Neck = 38 sts. Shoulders = (86-38)/2 = 24 sts each
- M: 96 sts. Neck = 42 sts. Shoulders = (96-42)/2 = 27 sts each → round to 27
- L: 102 sts. Neck = 44 sts. Shoulders = (102-44)/2 = 29 sts each
- XL: 112 sts. Neck = 46 sts. Shoulders = (112-46)/2 = 33 sts each
- 2XL: 122 sts. Neck = 48 sts. Shoulders = (122-48)/2 = 37 sts each

Let me verify neck widths:
- S: 38/2.2 = 17.3 cm ✓
- M: 42/2.2 = 19.1 cm ✓
- L: 44/2.2 = 20 cm ✓
- XL: 46/2.2 = 20.9 cm ✓
- 2XL: 48/2.2 = 21.8 cm ✓

Shoulder widths:
- S: 24/2.2 = 10.9 cm ✓
- M: 27/2.2 = 12.3 cm ✓
- L: 29/2.2 = 13.2 cm ✓
- XL: 33/2.2 = 15 cm ✓
- 2XL: 37/2.2 = 16.8 cm ✓

**Shoulder Shaping** (gradual bind-off over 2 steps):
For beginner, I'll use 2-step shoulder bind-off (which is simpler to understand):
- S: 24 sts → BO 12 sts twice
- M: 27 sts → BO 14 sts, then 13 sts (or 13+14 — let me say BO 13 sts, then 14 sts)
  Actually for simplicity, let me make these even or nearly even.
- L: 29 sts → BO 15 sts, then 14 sts
- XL: 33 sts → BO 17 sts, then 16 sts
- 2XL: 37 sts → BO 19 sts, then 18 sts

Actually, for set-in sleeve, shoulder shaping is typically 2-3 bind-off rows. For beginners, I'll do 2 rows.

**Back Neck Shaping**:
Back neck is typically shallower — just bind off centre sts and work each shoulder separately for 2-4 rows.

Back neck depth: ~2.5 cm (1") from shoulder
Rows: 2.5 × 3 = 7.5 → 8 rows (4 RS rows)

**Front Neck Shaping**:
Front neck depth: ~7.5 cm (3") from shoulder
Rows: 7.5 × 3 = 22.5 → 24 rows (12 RS rows)

Front neck width (same as back neck sts, maybe slightly narrower):
Actually front neck is same width at top as back neck.
- S: 32 sts for front neck centre (slightly narrower) — actually let me keep same or similar
  
Let me reconsider. For a standard crew neck, front neck sts = back neck sts ≈ same. The front neck is deeper (starts earlier).

Front neck centre bind-off: roughly half the neck sts
- S: BO 20 sts at centre, then dec each side across ~12 rows to give 38 total neck sts = 20 + 9×2 = 20+18=38 ✓
- M: BO 22 sts at centre, then dec each side 10 times = 22+20=42 ✓
- L: BO 24 sts at centre, then dec each side 10 times = 24+20=44 ✓
- XL: BO 26 sts at centre, then dec each side 10 times = 26+20=46 ✓
- 2XL: BO 28 sts at centre, then dec each side 10 times = 28+20=48 ✓

Let me check: these decreases happen across 12 RS rows for front neck = 24 rows total
With 9-10 decreases per side × 1 dec per RS row = 9-10 RS rows = comfortable

For 24 rows of neck shaping, that gives:
- Start neck when 24 rows remain before shoulder = at row (armhole rows - 24) from start of armhole
  - S: 54 armhole rows - 24 = 30 rows into armhole before neck shaping begins ✓
  - Check shoulder height: starts at row 54, neck at row 30, so 24 rows of neck shaping ✓

**Sleeves**:

Sleeve length (underarm to cuff, including cuff ribbing):
- Standard sleeve length: 46 cm (18") to underarm
- Cuff ribbing: 6 cm (2.5")
- Sleeve body: 40 cm (15.75")
- Rows: 40 × 3 = 120 rows for sleeve body

Cuff sts (k2p2 rib, divisible by 4):
- All sizes: 44 sts (20 cm / 8" around cuff) — varies by size
  Actually:
  - S/M: 40 sts → 40/2.2 = 18.2 cm ✓
  - L/XL: 44 sts → 44/2.2 = 20 cm ✓
  - 2XL: 48 sts → 48/2.2 = 21.8 cm ✓

Sleeve width at underarm:
Should match armhole width. Armhole sts removed × 2 + some extra.
Upper arm circumference:
- S: ~33 cm (13") → 33 × 2.2 = 72.6 → 72 sts (div by... not div 4 required for sleeve body, just cuff needs div 4)
  Actually let me recalculate: upper arm = half circumference × 2 for the piece
  Upper arm width (half circumference for flat piece):
  - S: 33/2 = 16.5 cm → 16.5 × 2.2 = 36.3 → 36 sts... 

Wait, I need to think about this more carefully. The sleeve is worked flat as a single flat piece. The width at underarm represents the full sleeve width (which when seamed = half the circumference? No — the sleeve piece width = half the circumference).

Actually: sleeve worked flat, width = half the circumference measurement. But for a pullover sleeve, the total sts = half the circumference.

Hmm, actually in a typical flat sleeve piece: you cast on for the cuff width (full cuff circumference / 2... no).

Let me reconsider: In flat knitting, the sleeve piece = one flat panel. When you seam the underarm seam, the width of the flat piece becomes the circumference. So:
- Cuff: 40 sts on needles. After seaming underarm seam, cuff circumference = 40 sts / 2.2 × 2... 

No wait. In flat knitting for a sleeve:
- You cast on, say, 40 sts
- You knit flat (back and forth)
- You seam the long side edges together to form a tube
- So circumference = 40/2.2 × ... no. 40 sts / 2.2 sts/cm = 18.2 cm wide as a flat piece = 18.2 cm circumference when seamed? No!

When a flat piece is seamed, the width of the flat piece BECOMES the circumference. No — the width of the flat piece is the RADIUS? No...

OK I need to think clearly:
- Flat knitting: cast on N sts, width of fabric = N/gauge cm
- When you fold and seam the long edges, you get a tube with circumference = N/gauge cm × 2... NO.

Actually: when you fold a flat piece in half and seam the sides, the circumference = 2 × width of flat piece. But for a sleeve, you DON'T fold in half — you seam the two side edges together, making a tube where circumference = width of the flat piece.

Wait no. If I knit a flat piece that is 20 cm wide, and I seam the left and right edges together, I get a tube 20 cm in circumference. That's correct!

So:
- Cast on 40 sts → flat piece width = 40/2.2 = 18.2 cm → sleeve circumference after seaming = 18.2 cm

Hmm, that would give a very narrow sleeve! A 40 stitch sleeve at DK gauge = 18.2 cm circumference = tiny.

Oh wait, I think I have the math backwards. Let me reconsider.

For a flat knitted sleeve:
- Desired cuff circumference: ~20 cm (8")
- Stitches needed: 20 cm × 2.2 sts/cm = 44 sts → YES, the flat piece has 44 sts which = 20 cm wide as fabric = 20 cm circumference when formed into a tube.

So for cuff:
- S: Desired cuff circumference ~20 cm → 44 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- M: ~21 cm → 44 sts (div by 4 ✓) — same
- L: ~22 cm → 48 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- XL: ~23 cm → 52 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- 2XL: ~25 cm → 56 sts (div by 4 ✓) — actually 25 × 2.2 = 55 → 56 ✓

Upper arm at underarm:
Desired upper arm circumference (with ease):
- S: ~32 cm → 32 × 2.2 = 70.4 → 72 sts
- M: ~35 cm → 35 × 2.2 = 77 → 76 sts (round down to div by 2 for increase pairs)
  Actually, let me just aim for a sensible number that works with increases.

Sleeve increases: work every 10 rows (for beginner simplicity) → increase 1 st each end
- S: From 44 to 72 sts = need to add 28 sts = 14 increase rounds × every 10 rows = 140 rows... but sleeve body = 120 rows. 
  Hmm, let me recalculate. Actually sleeve body rows should accommodate the increases needed.

Let me reconsider the sleeve body length:
- Total sleeve length: 46 cm (18") from cuff to underarm
- Cuff ribbing: 6 cm → 18 rows
- Sleeve body: 40 cm → 120 rows

Adjusting targets:
For S: Cast on 44 sts, increase to 72 sts
Need: (72-44)/2 = 14 increases
Space: 120 rows
Frequency: 120/(14+1) = 8 rows between each = every 8 rows

That's every 8 rows for 14 times → 14 × 8 = 112 rows, then 8 rows straight = 120 rows. Works!

For M: Cast on 44 sts, increase to 76 sts
Need: (76-44)/2 = 16 increases
Frequency: 120/(16+1) = 7 rows → every 8 rows for 15 times = 120 rows ✓
Actually every 8 rows × 15 = 120 rows, 15 pairs added = 30 sts → 44+30 = 74 sts... 

Let me simplify: For beginner patterns, I'll use "every 8 rows" and specify total sts to reach.

Let me redo this properly:

**Sleeve cast-on and target sts at underarm:**
- S: CO 44 → target 72 sts. Increases needed: (72-44)/2 = 14. Over 120 rows → every 8 rows × 14 = 112 rows, work 8 rows even after last inc. ✓ 44 + 28 = 72 ✓
- M: CO 44 → target 76 sts. (76-44)/2 = 16. Every 8 rows × 15 = 120 rows → 44 + 30 = 74 sts. Close but not quite 76. Let me adjust: every 7 rows × 16 = 112 rows, then 8 rows straight. 44 + 32 = 76 ✓. But "every 7 rows" is odd for a beginner... Let me make target 76 and say every 8 rows × 16 = 128 rows. That's too long.
  
  Alternative: Extend sleeve body for M. Or adjust target.
  
  Simpler approach: For M, target 76 sts, CO 44, need 16 increases:
  Every 8 rows: 16 × 8 = 128 rows. Sleeve body = 128 rows = 42.7 cm. Close enough if I adjust total sleeve length.

  Actually, let me just use "every 8 rows" for all sizes and adjust the target st count to make it work within ~120 rows, then have a short straight section.
  
Let me be more systematic. I'll use 120 rows of sleeve body for all sizes (giving 40 cm).

Working backwards: N increases, each every 8 rows:
- Max increases in 120 rows at every 8 rows = 14 increases (14×8=112 rows + 8 rows straight)
- Or 15 increases (15×8=120 rows, 0 straight)

For each size:
- S: CO 44, 14 inc (every 8 rows) = 44+28 = 72 sts. 112 rows + 8 rows even. ✓
- M: CO 44, 15 inc (every 8 rows) = 44+30 = 74 sts. 120 rows exactly. ✓
- L: CO 48, 14 inc (every 8 rows) = 48+28 = 76 sts. 112 rows + 8 rows even. ✓
- XL: CO 52, 14 inc (every 8 rows) = 52+28 = 80 sts. 112 rows + 8 rows even. ✓
- 2XL: CO 56, 14 inc (every 8 rows) = 56+28 = 84 sts. 112 rows + 8 rows even. ✓

Let me check upper arm circumferences:
- S: 72/2.2 = 32.7 cm (12.9") ✓
- M: 74/2.2 = 33.6 cm (13.2") ✓
- L: 76/2.2 = 34.5 cm (13.6") ✓
- XL: 80/2.2 = 36.4 cm (14.3") ✓
- 2XL: 84/2.2 = 38.2 cm (15") ✓

These look good for a fitted jumper.

**Sleeve Cap Shaping**:
The sleeve cap is the shaped top of the sleeve that sets into the armhole. 

Sleeve cap height ≈ armhole depth
- S: ~18 cm → 54 rows
- M: ~19 cm → 57 rows
- L: ~20 cm → 60 rows
- XL: ~21 cm → 63 rows
- 2XL: ~22 cm → 66 rows

Sleeve cap shaping removes sts to reduce from underarm width to a small number at top:
Method: 
1. BO same sts as armhole base bind-off (to match armhole)
2. Decrease each side every RS row until ~1/3 of sts remain
3. Larger bind-offs at the end

Standard sleeve cap formula:
- Start: BO same as armhole BO at base (each side)
- Work decreases every RS row
- End with about 10-12 sts remaining, then bind off all

Let me work out sts:

For S:
- Start with 72 sts
- BO 4 sts each side (same as armhole base): 72 - 8 = 64 sts
- Then BO 2 sts each side: 64 - 4 = 60 sts
- Then dec 1 each side every RS row × 22 = 60 - 44 = 16 sts
- BO 2 sts each side × 1: 16 - 4 = 12 sts
- BO remaining 12 sts

Cap rows used: 2 (BO 4) + 2 (BO 2) + 44 (22 RS rows = 44 rows) + 2 (BO 2) = 50 rows. Target was 54. Close enough — I can add a few straight rows, or adjust decreases.

Let me try:
- BO 4 each side (2 rows)
- BO 2 each side (2 rows) 
- Dec 1 each side every RS row × 20 (40 rows)
- Final BO remaining sts
Total: 2+2+40 = 44 rows + final BO row. Still need to reach 54 rows.

Alternative approach: Work a few rows even at the start, add more decrease rows, or use "every other RS row" at some points.

Simpler for beginner: 
- BO 4 each side (base)
- Dec 1 each side every RS row until sleeve measures [cap height] from first BO, then BO rem sts

Let me just specify the height and total rows more carefully.

Actually, for a beginner pattern, I'll simplify the sleeve cap:
1. BO same sts as armhole at base (each side) over 2-3 rows
2. Dec 1 st each end every right-side row until a total of 16-20 sts remain
3. BO all remaining sts

The key is the cap height ≈ armhole depth. The number of rows of decreasing will naturally yield this.

For S: 72 sts → BO 4 each side (2 rows), BO 2 each side (2 rows), then dec 1 each side every RS row:
Starting sts after initial BOs: 60 sts
Need to reduce to ~16 sts: need (60-16)/2 = 22 decreases × 2 rows each = 44 rows
Total cap rows: 2+2+44 = 48 rows + final BO = height = 48/3 = 16 cm. Armhole was 18 cm. Close but short.

Let me add a few straight rows after the base BOs:
BO 4 each side (2 rows), BO 2 each side (2 rows), work 4 rows even, then dec 1 each side every RS row × 22 (44 rows), final BO:
Total: 2+2+4+44 = 52 rows ≈ 17.3 cm. Better.

You know what, for a beginner pattern the exact cap height will vary and knitters can adjust. Let me simplify and just give clear instructions that work. The key points:
- Match the initial bind-offs to the armhole
- Decrease until the right sts remain
- The height will work out

I'll specify it as: work until cap measures X cm from first bind-off row, then bind off remaining sts.

**Neckband**:
After seaming, pick up sts around neck opening. Must be divisible by 4 for k2p2.

Neck circumference:
Back neck sts + front neck sts + side neck sts (picked up from row-ends)

Back neck width sts (cast off):
- S: 38 sts across back neck
- M: 42 sts
- L: 44 sts
- XL: 46 sts
- 2XL: 48 sts

Front neck centre sts (cast off):
- S: 20 sts
- M: 22 sts
- L: 24 sts
- XL: 26 sts
- 2XL: 28 sts

Side neck edges (from row-ends):
Front neck depth = 24 rows each side × 2 sides = 48 rows → pick up 3 sts per 4 rows = 36 sts
Back neck depth = 8 rows each side × 2 sides = 16 rows → 3 per 4 rows = 12 sts
Total side neck approx = 48 sts

Wait, I need to be more careful. Let me think about what "side neck" means:
- The front neck has two sloped sides from where you started shaping to the shoulder
- The back neck similarly (though shallower)

Front neck rows: 24 rows total on each side
Back neck rows: 8 rows on each side

Pickup rate: approximately 2 sts per 3 rows for neat pickup (or 3 per 4 rows)

At 3 per 4 rows:
- Front each side: 24 × 0.75 = 18 sts per side × 2 = 36 sts
- Back each side: 8 × 0.75 = 6 sts per side × 2 = 12 sts

Total neck pickup:
- S: Back neck 38 + Front neck centre 20 + side neck 36 + 12 = 106 sts → not div by 4 → adjust to 108 ✓
- M: 42 + 22 + 36 + 12 = 112 sts → div by 4 ✓ 
- L: 44 + 24 + 36 + 12 = 116 sts → div by 4 ✓
- XL: 46 + 26 + 36 + 12 = 120 sts → div by 4 ✓
- 2XL: 48 + 28 + 36 + 12 = 124 sts → div by 4 ✓

For S: 106 → 108 sts (adjust by picking up a couple extra on the sides)
For L: 116 → 116 sts (div by 4 ✓)

Actually let me just say "approximately X sts, adjusting to nearest multiple of 4."

I'll give approximate pickup counts:
- S: approx 108 sts
- M: approx 112 sts
- L: approx 116 sts
- XL: approx 120 sts
- 2XL: approx 124 sts

All div by 4 ✓

Neckband: work k2p2 rib for 2.5 cm (1"), cast off in rib using 3.75 mm needles (to keep rib stretchy).

Now let me also establish my needle sizes:
- DK weight: main needle 4 mm (UK 8)
- Ribbing: 3.5 mm (UK 9/10) — one size down

Actually standard DK:
- Main body: 4 mm
- Ribbing: 3.25 mm or 3.5 mm

I'll use:
- Ribbing: 3.25 mm (UK 10)
- Main body: 4 mm (UK 8)
- Neckband: 3.25 mm in the round

**Summary of all calculations:**

TENSION: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles

Needle sizes: 3.25 mm (ribbing/neckband), 4 mm (main body)

Let me also calculate total body length:
- Ribbing: 6 cm (18 rows)
- Body to underarm: 36 cm (108 rows)
- Armhole: varies by size
- Total back length (neckband not included):
  - S: 6 + 36 + 18 = 60 cm (neck shaping 2.5 cm at top)
  
Actually let me define:
Body length to underarm (from cast-on edge): 42 cm total
- Ribbing: 6 cm
- Stockinette body: 36 cm

Back total length:
- Body to underarm: 42 cm
- Armhole depth: 18-22 cm
- Total: 60-64 cm

Standard jumper back length (neck to hem) for fitted jumper:
- S: ~60 cm, M: ~62 cm, L: ~64 cm, XL: ~66 cm, 2XL: ~68 cm

Let me now verify the armhole back:
Back neck bind-off happens X rows before end of armhole shaping:
- Armhole rows total: 54 (S), 57 (M), 60 (L), 63 (XL), 66 (2XL)
- Back neck shaping starts at row armhole_rows - 8 (to give 8 rows for back neck)
  - S: row 46 of armhole
  - M: row 49
  - L: row 52
  - XL: row 55
  - 2XL: row 58

Wait, the shoulder shaping also happens at the very end. Let me think:

Back piece - working from bottom up:
1. Ribbing
2. Stockinette body
3. Armhole shaping (bind offs + decreases over first several rows)
4. Work straight on remaining sts until armhole measures X cm
5. Back neck and shoulder shaping (last few rows)

Back neck shaping = last ~2.5 cm = 8 rows
Shoulder shaping = last 2 rows (bind off each shoulder)

So back neck starts at: armhole total rows - 8 - (shoulder bind-off rows: 4 rows for 2-step BO each side)
= armhole rows - 12 rows from start of armhole

Wait, let me think step by step:
- Work armhole shaping rows (dec rows)
- Work straight until armhole measures X cm
- Then: Back neck row 1: work to centre, bind off centre sts, work to end
- Work each shoulder separately for a few rows while decreasing neck edge
- Then bind off shoulders

For back neck:
Row 1 (RS): Work to centre, BO neck sts, work to end (now working two sides)
Continue for 4 rows (with 1 dec at neck edge each RS row × 2 RS rows = 2 extra sts removed per side)
Final row: BO shoulders

Actually for back, the neck is quite shallow. I'll keep it simple:
Row 1: Work to neck, BO centre sts, work to end
Row 2: work each side
Row 3: BO each shoulder (in two parts if doing gradual BO)

For simplicity at beginner level, I'll have:
- Back neck: Bind off centre sts on one RS row, then work 1 row even, then bind off shoulders on next RS row (so just 4 rows of neck = ~1.3 cm depth for back neck). This is simple and standard.

Actually in many beginner patterns, the back neck is even simpler — just BO across, no shaping. But that creates a very flat, squared neckline which isn't ideal. I'll add at least a minimal back neck shaping.

Let me keep the back neck as:
- Row 1 (RS): Work to centre, BO centre N sts, work to end
- Row 2 (WS): Work to neck edge, turn (each side separate)
- Row 3 (RS): Dec 1 at neck edge, work to end
- Row 4 (WS): Work even
- Row 5 (RS): BO shoulder sts

That's 5 rows = back neck depth ~1.7 cm. Simple enough.

Actually wait — for a beginner, I should consolidate and simplify. Let me restructure:

Back Neck & Shoulders:
When armhole measures the target depth, shape as follows:
Next RS row: K to centre, cast off centre N sts, K to end.
Work on right shoulder only:
Next row (WS): P to end.
Next row (RS): BO shoulder sts.
Rejoin yarn to left shoulder, work same.

This keeps it very beginner-friendly (no neck decreases on back, just a simple cast-off at centre). The back neck edge is slightly higher than the front but that's fine for a crew neck pullover.

Now back to making the numbers clean for the pattern.

Let me also revisit the front neck shaping more carefully.

Front neck starts 24 rows (8 cm) before shoulder shaping:
Wait, 3" = 7.5 cm depth for front neck:
7.5 × 3 rows/cm = 22.5 → 22 rows = front neck depth

So in the armhole, front neck shaping begins at:
S: armhole row 54 - 22 = 32 (begin neck at row 32 of armhole)
M: 57 - 22 = 35
L: 60 - 22 = 38
XL: 63 - 22 = 41
2XL: 66 - 22 = 44

Front neck shaping: 22 rows total
- Row 1 (RS): BO centre N sts
- Then dec 1 each side every RS row × number of times
- Then work straight to shoulder

Decreases across 22 rows (11 RS rows):
Row 1: BO centre sts (1 RS row)
Rows 2-22: 10 more RS rows for decreases, but first RS row is the BO row itself.
Actually:
After BO centre sts on RS row 1, we work two sides separately:
- WS row 2: purl
- RS row 3: dec 1 at neck edge
- WS row 4: purl
...continuing...
RS rows for neck dec: rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 = 10 RS dec rows

Then row 22 (RS): BO shoulder OR work even and BO.

So: 10 decreases per side after initial centre BO.

Total neck width removed:
- S: Centre BO 20 + 10×2 = 20+20 = 40 sts (all from 86 sts post-armhole)
  Hmm, but we said neck should be 38 sts. Let me recalc:
  Centre BO 18 + 10×2 = 18+20 = 38 ✓ for S!
  
- M: Centre BO 22 + 10×2 = 42 ✓
- L: Centre BO 24 + 10×2 = 44 ✓
- XL: Centre BO 26 + 10×2 = 46 ✓
- 2XL: Centre BO 28 + 10×2 = 48 ✓

After neck shaping + shoulder:
Shoulder sts remaining:
- S: (86 - 38)/2 = 24 sts ✓ (verified against earlier calc)
- M: (96 - 42)/2 = 27 sts ✓
- L: (102 - 44)/2 = 29 sts ✓
- XL: (112 - 46)/2 = 33 sts ✓
- 2XL: (122 - 48)/2 = 37 sts ✓

Now, the neck shaping uses 22 rows, and shoulder BOs happen at end:
After 10 RS dec rows (20 rows) + initial BO row + 1 WS row + maybe work 2 more rows even...

Let me structure it: Front neck shaping begins 22 rows before end of armhole section.
- Row 1: BO centre sts, work each side separately
- Rows 2-20 (from neck start): Dec 1 at neck edge every RS row × 10 (= 20 rows)
- Rows 21-22: Work even (2 rows)  
- Shape shoulder

So neck occupies rows armhole_total - 22 to armhole_total - 2
Shoulder shaping is last 2-4 rows.

For 2-step shoulder BO:
Row armhole_total - 1 (RS): BO first half of shoulder sts at outside edge, work to neck edge
Row armhole_total (WS): BO remaining shoulder sts, work to neck edge... 

Actually for flat knitting, shoulder BO works like this:
RS row: BO N sts at beginning (outside edge), knit to end
WS row: BO N sts at beginning (other outside edge for the other shoulder, or same shoulder purl side)

Hmm, for a 2-step BO:
Work both sides separately. For the right shoulder:
RS row: BO first batch of shoulder sts, work to neck edge, turn
WS row: P to end, turn
RS row: BO second batch of shoulder sts → done

For the left shoulder: same but starting with WS row from neck end.

For simplicity in a beginner pattern, I'll do a one-step shoulder BO (all at once on a RS row). This is simpler though slightly less elegant. Or I'll do 2 steps.

Actually for beginner, I'll do 2 steps for a slightly nicer shoulder join, and explain it clearly.

2-step shoulder BO:
- S: 24 sts → BO 12, then 12
- M: 27 sts → BO 14, then 13
- L: 29 sts → BO 15, then 14
- XL: 33 sts → BO 17, then 16
- 2XL: 37 sts → BO 19, then 18

Hmm, I realize I need to also decide the overall back length more precisely. Let me define:

Total body measurement (back length, from cast-on to shoulder):
- S: 59 cm (23.25")
- M: 61 cm (24")
- L: 63 cm (24.75")
- XL: 65 cm (25.5")
- 2XL: 67 cm (26.25")

This = ribbing + body + armhole:
- S: 6 + 36 + 17 = 59 ✓ (armhole depth 17 cm... I originally said 18, close enough - adjust to 18: 6+36+18=60 cm)
  Let me use 60 cm for S.

Body height before armhole: 42 cm (6 rib + 36 body) for all sizes (can grade slightly, but for simplicity, keep same).

Armhole depths:
- S: 18 cm → total: 60 cm
- M: 19 cm → total: 61 cm
- L: 20 cm → total: 62 cm
- XL: 21 cm → total: 63 cm
- 2XL: 22 cm → total: 64 cm

These are reasonable back lengths. Let me go with these.

Now let me compile all numbers cleanly:

---

**FINAL STITCH COUNT SUMMARY:**

**TENSION**: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles

**NEEDLES**: 3.25 mm (ribbing) and 4 mm (main)

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust/chest (to fit) | 86-91 cm (34-36") | 97-102 cm (38-40") | 107-112 cm (42-44") | 117-122 cm (46-48") | 127-132 cm (50-52") |
| Finished chest | 98 cm (38.5") | 109 cm (43") | 116 cm (45.7") | 127 cm (50") | 138 cm (54.3") |
| Back/Front CO sts | 108 | 120 | 128 | 140 | 152 |
| Body to underarm | 42 cm | 42 cm | 42 cm | 42 cm | 42 cm |
| Armhole BO each side | 4+2+1+1 | 4+2+1+1 | 5+2+1+1 | 5+3+1+1 | 6+3+1+1 |

Let me simplify the armhole bind-offs. For beginners, let me use the same pattern for each size to make it easier to explain, varying only the numbers:

**Armhole shaping** (each side):
- BO N1 sts at beg of next 2 rows (once each side)
- BO N2 sts at beg of next 2 rows
- Dec 1 st each end every RS row × N3 times

|  | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| N1 (large BO each side) | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 |
| N2 (medium BO each side) | 2 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| N3 (RS dec rows each side) | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
| Total removed each side | 4+2+5=11 | 4+3+5=12 | 5+2+6=13 | 5+3+6=14 | 6+3+6=15 |
| Remaining sts | 108-22=86 | 120-24=96 | 128-26=102 | 140-28=112 | 152-30=122 |

Verification:
- S: 108 - 2(4) - 2(2) - 2(5) = 108 - 8 - 4 - 10 = 86 ✓
- M: 120 - 2(4) - 2(3) - 2(5) = 120 - 8 - 6 - 10 = 96 ✓
- L: 128 - 2(5) - 2(2) - 2(6) = 128 - 10 - 4 - 12 = 102 ✓
- XL: 140 - 2(5) - 2(3) - 2(6) = 140 - 10 - 6 - 12 = 112 ✓
- 2XL: 152 - 2(6) - 2(3) - 2(6) = 152 - 12 - 6 - 12 = 122 ✓

**Shoulder sts**: (after armhole, post all shaping)
| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Remaining armhole sts | 86 | 96 | 102 | 112 | 122 |
| Back neck sts (BO) | 38 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 |
| Each shoulder | 24 | 27 | 29 | 33 | 37 |
| Check: 2×shoulder + neck | 48+38=86✓ | 54+42=96✓ | 58+44=102✓ | 66+46=112✓ | 74+48=122✓ |

**Front neck**:
| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Centre front neck BO | 18 | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| Dec each side × | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Total neck sts | 18+20=38 | 22+20=42 | 24+20=44 | 26+20=46 | 28+20=48 |
| Check (=back neck) | 38=38✓ | 42=42✓ | 44=44✓ | 46=46✓ | 48=48✓ |
| Shoulder sts remaining | 24 ✓ | 27 ✓ | 29 ✓ | 33 ✓ | 37 ✓ |

**Sleeves**:
| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cuff CO | 44 | 44 | 48 | 52 | 56 |
| Increases (each end) | 14 × every 8 rows | 15 × every 8 rows | 14 × every 8 rows | 14 × every 8 rows | 14 × every 8 rows |
| Final sleeve sts at underarm | 44+28=72 | 44+30=74 | 48+28=76 | 52+28=80 | 56+28=84 |
| Sleeve body rows (after rib) | 112+8 str=120 | 120 | 112+8 str=120 | 112+8 str=120 | 112+8 str=120 |
| Sleeve length (cuff+body) | 6+40=46 cm | 6+40=46 cm | 6+40=46 cm | 6+40=46 cm | 6+40=46 cm |

For M: 15 increases × every 8 rows = 120 rows, so sleeve body = 40 cm, then no straight rows. After last increase, work to armhole. 44+30=74 sts ✓

**Sleeve Cap Shaping**:
Match armhole bind-offs (N1 and N2 same as armhole):

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Starting sts | 72 | 74 | 76 | 80 | 84 |
| BO N1 each side | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 |
| BO N2 each side | 2 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| After initial BOs | 72-12=60 | 74-14=60 | 76-14=62 | 80-16=64 | 84-18=66 |
| Dec 1 each end every RS row × | 22 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 |
| After dec rows | 60-44=16 | 60-44=16 | 62-46=16 | 64-48=16 | 66-50=16 |
| BO rem 16 sts | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |

Cap height estimation:
- BOs: 4 rows (2 pairs)
- Dec rows: 44-50 rows
- Total: 48-54 rows / 3 rows per cm = 16-18 cm

Armhole target depths: S=18 cm, M=19 cm, L=20 cm, XL=21 cm, 2XL=22 cm
Cap heights: S≈16cm, M≈16cm... These are slightly short. Let me add some rows.

I'll add a few even rows in the middle or beginning of cap shaping:

After initial BOs, work 4 rows even, then dec:
- S: 4+4+44+1=53 rows / 3 = 17.7 cm ≈ 18 cm ✓ (good enough, cap doesn't need to be exact)
- M: 4+4+44+1 = 53/3 = 17.7 ≈ 18 cm (armhole is 19 cm, close)
- L: 4+4+46+1 = 55/3 = 18.3 cm (armhole 20 cm - close, slight ease for setting)
- XL: 4+4+48+1 = 57/3 = 19 cm (armhole 21 cm)
- 2XL: 4+4+50+1 = 59/3 = 19.7 cm (armhole 22 cm)

These are fine — sleeve caps are typically designed to be 1-2 cm shorter than armhole depth to ease into the seam.

Actually, I realize I was overcomplicating this. For a beginner pattern, I'll specify cap height in cm rather than exact row counts, and say "decrease until sleeve cap measures X cm from first bind-off row, ending with a RS row. Cast off remaining sts."

Sleeve cap heights (work until cap measures):
- S: 16.5 cm (6.5")
- M: 17 cm (6.75")
- L: 18 cm (7")
- XL: 19 cm (7.5")
- 2XL: 20 cm (7.75")

That's cleaner and more beginner-friendly. But I should still give the row counts for guidance.

Let me specify: "Continue decreasing until sleeve cap measures approximately X cm / X inches from the first cast-off row, and approximately Y sts remain. Cast off all remaining sts."

Expected remaining sts ≈ 16 sts (small amount at top of cap).

Actually, let me recalculate more carefully for each size how many dec rows to get to ~16 sts:

After initial BOs (BO N1 + BO N2 each side):
- S: Start 72, BO 4+2=6 each side → 72-12=60 sts
  To reach 16 sts: (60-16)/2 = 22 dec rows × 2 rows = 44 rows
  Plus initial BOs: 4 rows
  Plus 4 even rows: 4 rows
  Total: 52 rows = 52/3 = 17.3 cm

- M: Start 74, BO 4+3=7 each side → 74-14=60 sts
  (60-16)/2 = 22 dec rows = 44 rows
  Total: 4+4+44 = 52 rows = 17.3 cm

- L: Start 76, BO 5+2=7 each side → 76-14=62 sts
  (62-16)/2 = 23 dec rows = 46 rows
  Total: 4+4+46 = 54 rows = 18 cm ✓

- XL: Start 80, BO 5+3=8 each side → 80-16=64 sts
  (64-16)/2 = 24 dec rows = 48 rows
  Total: 4+4+48 = 56 rows = 18.7 cm ✓

- 2XL: Start 84, BO 6+3=9 each side → 84-18=66 sts
  (66-16)/2 = 25 dec rows = 50 rows
  Total: 4+4+50 = 58 rows = 19.3 cm ✓

These are slightly less than armhole depth but that's normal (usually 1-2 cm ease in setting). Good.

**Neckband**:
Work in the round on 3.25 mm circular needle.
Pick up approximately:
- S: 108 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- M: 112 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- L: 116 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- XL: 120 sts (div by 4 ✓)
- 2XL: 124 sts (div by 4 ✓)

Work k2p2 rib for 2.5 cm (1"). Cast off in rib.

Now, let me also check:
**The neckband pickup numbers logic:**
Back neck: 38/42/44/46/48 sts
Front neck centre: 18/22/24/26/28 sts
Side edges (pickup from row ends):
Front neck depth: 22 rows of shaping + a few straight = ~24 rows each side × 2 sides = 48 row-ends on front side edges
Back neck: ~4 rows each side × 2 = 8 row-ends on back side edges
Pickup rate: ~3 sts per 4 rows

Front sides: 48 × 0.75 = 36 sts
Back sides: 8 × 0.75 = 6 sts

Total neck:
- S: 38 + 18 + 36 + 6 = 98 → round up to 100... 

Hmm, this doesn't match my earlier calc. Let me redo:

Actually, I think I was double-counting earlier. The side neck pickup is from the SHAPED edges (the diagonal/curved front neck sides and the very shallow back neck sides).

But importantly: the back neck IS the centre cast-off sts. The back shoulders are straight. The back neck shaping has 4 rows (very shallow). The sts picked up at back neck = just the cast-off sts (38/42/44/46/48) + a couple from the short side edges.

For front: centre cast-off sts + picked up from the shaped side edges.

The front side neck = from where you cast off centre sts down to the shoulder = these are the row-end edges.
Front neck depth = 24 rows (22 shaping + 2 rows straight at end) = 24 rows × 2 sides = 48 rows
Pickup: 48 × (3/4) = 36 sts

Back: centre CO sts = 38, plus 4 row-ends each side = 8 rows × (3/4) = 6 sts

Total:
- S: Back 38 + front centre 18 + front sides 36 + back sides 6 = 98 → adjust to 100 (div by 4) or pick up differently.

Hmm, these numbers are quite a bit less than my earlier estimates. Let me check if 98-124 sts makes sense for a neckband circumference:
- 98 sts / 2.2 = 44.5 cm = too big for a neckband! That's about 17.5 inches circumference.

Wait, but the neckband is worked in rib which will pull in significantly. A k2p2 rib pulls in by about 25-30%. So actual circumference of neckband when worn = 44.5 × 0.72 = 32 cm ≈ 12.5 inches. That's fine for a crew neck that can be pulled over the head.

But actually, this neckband pickup seems large. Let me reconsider:
- Back neck cast off: 38 sts (back neck)
- Front neck centre cast off: 18 sts (front neck)
- Front side neck edges: The front neck shaping takes 24 rows = 24 row-ends per side × 2 = 48 row-ends → 36 sts
- Back side neck edges: 8 row-ends → 6 sts
Total = 98 sts

At 3.25 mm needles, tension = approximately 23-24 sts per 10 cm in rib... actually rib is tighter to gauge. But in rib it's very different from flat stockinette.

For the neckband, the key is that it stretches to go over the head and sits snugly at the neck. 98-124 sts seems like a lot but with rib pulling in it should work.

Actually, for a standard adult crew neck in DK weight, typical pickup is around 88-108 sts. My numbers seem a bit high, especially for larger sizes.

The issue is that for larger sizes, the back neck is wider and front neck centre is wider. This seems correct proportionally.

Let me just trust the numbers and specify them clearly in the pattern, noting to adjust to nearest multiple of 4.

For simplicity, I'll give the pattern approximate pickup numbers per section and total, and note to adjust as needed.

Actually, let me just simplify and give the total pickup numbers, noting they need to be divisible by 4:

Pick up sts around neck opening, picking up approx 3 sts for every 4 rows along shaped edges. Total should be approximately:
- S: 96 sts, M: 104 sts, L: 108 sts, XL: 116 sts, 2XL: 120 sts

Let me recalculate more carefully:

Reconsidering proportions:
Back neck = 38-48 sts (already cast off)
Front neck centre = 18-28 sts (already cast off)
Front side edges = from the shaped dec rows: each side has had 10 dec rows = 20 rows + a couple transition rows = ~22 rows per side × 2 = 44 rows → 44 × (3/4) = 33 sts
Back side edges = very shallow, maybe 6 rows total → 6 × (3/4) ≈ 4-5 sts, round to 4

Total:
- S: 38 + 18 + 33 + 4 = 93 → 92 (div by 4) or 96
- M: 42 + 22 + 33 + 4 = 101 → 100 (div by 4) or 104
- L: 44 + 24 + 33 + 4 = 105 → 104 (div by 4)
- XL: 46 + 26 + 33 + 4 = 109 → 108 (div by 4)
- 2XL: 48 + 28 + 33 + 4 = 113 → 112 (div by 4)

I'll go with: S: 92, M: 100, L: 104, XL: 108, 2XL: 112 — all divisible by 4 ✓

These seem more reasonable.

Now I have all calculations. Let me write the full pattern.

---

**FINAL FIGURES SUMMARY (to write into pattern):**

Tension: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm in stocking stitch on 4 mm needles

Needles: 3.25 mm straight + 3.25 mm circular 40 cm; 4 mm straight + 4 mm circular (optional, for body)

Yarn: DK weight, approx:
- S: 900 m / 100 g approx 5 × 100g balls (at ~200m per 100g ball)

Wait, let me calculate yarn requirements:
Stitch area × tension = yarn length needed per stitch
At DK, roughly