purlJam

<planning>
1. **Design Strategy**: Thunderbird 1 is the sleek, silver rocket-like craft from the classic TV series "International Rescue" (Thunderbirds). It has a distinctive vertical silhouette: a pointed nose cone at the top, a cylindrical body that tapers slightly, a wider mid-section, swept-back delta/cross wings in the middle, rear stabiliser fins, and rocket nozzles at the base. The "softie" (soft toy/stuffed toy) should be knitted in the round to create a 3D sculptural piece. It will be worked in silver/grey yarn primarily, with red accents. Difficulty: advanced, so we can use colourwork, short rows for shaping, and modular construction.

2. **Construction Plan**: 
- Work primarily in the round on DPNs or magic loop
- Construction order: Start from the nose cone tip (top), work down the body in sections, add wings separately (knitted flat then seamed/attached), add tail fins separately, finish with rocket nozzles at the base
- The craft will stand vertically (nose up), approximately 30cm tall
- Body: roughly cylindrical with slight variations
- Wings: swept-back, triangular/delta shaped, knitted flat
- Nose cone: worked from a point, increasing
- Base: worked with decreases to close, with nozzle tubes

3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Need to ensure wings attach cleanly and symmetrically
- Stuffing needs to be considered at each stage (stuff before closing sections)
- Colour changes need to be clean - mostly silver with red stripe details
- Need to clearly define where to stuff
- The vertical standing pose means the base needs to be sturdy/flat enough, or a base piece added
- Wing shaping needs careful mathematical calculation for the swept-back delta look

4. **Final Calculations**:
- Worsted weight yarn, typical tension: 20 sts × 28 rows = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch in the round
- So: 2 sts per cm, 2.8 rows per cm
- Target finished measurements:
  - Total height: approximately 30cm (12")
  - Body diameter (widest): approximately 8cm (3"), so circumference ~25cm = ~50 sts
  - Nose cone: starting from 6 sts, increasing to ~20 sts over ~6cm (17 rows)
  - Body upper section: ~20 sts tapering up, then increasing to 50 sts over the body
  
Let me redesign this more carefully:

**Nose Cone** (top): CO 6 sts, work in round, increase to 20 sts over ~4cm
- Start: 6 sts (magic ring/CO)
- Inc round: (kfb) x6 = 12 sts
- Work 2 rounds plain
- Inc round: (k1, kfb) x6 = 18 sts  
- Work 2 rounds plain
- Inc round: (k2, kfb) x6 = 24 sts... 

Wait, let me think about proportions more carefully.

Thunderbird 1 proportions:
- Very long and sleek - mostly cylindrical body
- Narrow fuselage
- Wings are mid-mounted, swept back dramatically
- Small stabilising fins at rear
- Cluster of rocket nozzles at base

For a satisfying softie approximately 30cm tall:

- Nose tip: 4cm of point
- Upper body: 8cm - slim cylinder
- Mid-body with wings: 5cm section
- Lower body: 8cm
- Tail section with fins: 3cm
- Rocket nozzles: 2cm

Let me use a body circumference of about 16cm (just over 6") - that's 32 sts at 2sts/cm. That's more elegant for a sleek rocket.

Actually for a worsted weight softie, let me use:
- Tension: 20 sts / 28 rows = 10cm in st st in the round
- 2 sts per cm, 2.8 rows per cm

Body main circumference: ~15cm = 30 sts (nice round number divisible by 6)
This gives a body diameter of ~4.8cm which is quite slim - good for TB1's sleek look.

Nose cone: 
- Cast on 6 sts (tiny tip)
- Inc to 12 sts: 2cm
- Inc to 18 sts: 2cm  
- Inc to 24 sts: 2cm
- Inc to 30 sts: 2cm (join to body)
- Nose cone total: ~8cm (worked from tip downward, so in our construction from top)

Actually I'll work from nose tip DOWN:

**Nose Cone Section** (cast on at tip, work downward):
- CO 6 sts, join
- Round 1: k all
- Round 2 (inc): (kfb) x6 = 12 sts
- Rounds 3-4: k all (2 rounds = ~0.7cm)
- Round 5 (inc): (k1, kfb) x6 = 18 sts
- Rounds 6-7: k all
- Round 8 (inc): (k2, kfb) x6 = 24 sts
- Rounds 9-10: k all
- Round 11 (inc): (k3, kfb) x6 = 30 sts
- Rounds 12-13: k all (now at 30 sts)

Height of nose cone: 13 rounds ÷ 2.8 rows/cm ≈ 4.6cm. Let me add a few plain rounds to extend the point:

- CO 6, join
- Round 1: k all
- Round 2: k all
- Round 3 (inc): (kfb) x6 = 12 sts
- Rounds 4-6: k all (3 rounds)
- Round 7 (inc): (k1, kfb) x6 = 18 sts
- Rounds 8-10: k all
- Round 11 (inc): (k2, kfb) x6 = 24 sts
- Rounds 12-14: k all
- Round 15 (inc): (k3, kfb) x6 = 30 sts
- Rounds 16-17: k all

Total rounds: 17 → 17/2.8 = ~6cm. That's a nice nose cone.

**Upper Body** (slim section, 30 sts):
Work straight for ~8cm = 22-23 rounds. Let's say 22 rounds.

**Wing Area** - keep at 30 sts for 5cm = 14 rounds, but we add a separate wing piece here

**Lower Body** - 30 sts for 8cm = 22 rounds

Actually, I want a very slight taper or the wings have small fairings. Let me keep body at 30 sts throughout for simplicity, then add all wing/fin details as separate knitted pieces.

**Tail Section** - gradual taper to fit rocket nozzle cluster:
Decrease from 30 to 18 sts over about 3cm (8 rounds):
- Round 1 (dec): (k3, k2tog) x6 = 24 sts
- Rounds 2-3: k all
- Round 4 (dec): (k2, k2tog) x6 = 18 sts
- Rounds 5-6: k all
- Round 7 (dec): (k1, k2tog) x6 = 12 sts
- Round 8: k all
Stuff here, then:
- Round 9 (dec): (k2tog) x6 = 6 sts
- Graft/draw through

Wait, but we want rocket nozzles, so better to leave the base open (18 sts or so) and add a separate base piece.

Let me restructure:

**Tail/Base end**:
After 22 rounds of lower body at 30 sts:
- Dec round 1: (k3, k2tog) x6 = 24 sts
- 2 rounds plain
- Dec round 2: (k2, k2tog) x6 = 18 sts
- 2 rounds plain
Close to 18 sts, stuff, then attach a flat base circle piece. The rocket nozzles are I-cord tubes attached to the base.

Actually, for cleaner construction:
After lower body, work base shaping:
- (k3, k2tog)x6 = 24 sts, 1 round
- (k2, k2tog)x6 = 18 sts, 1 round
- (k1, k2tog)x6 = 12 sts, 1 round
- stuff firmly
- (k2tog)x6 = 6 sts
- draw yarn through, close

Then the rocket nozzles are small tubes attached to the outside of the closed bottom.

Total body heights:
- Nose cone: ~17 rounds = 6.1cm
- Upper body: 22 rounds = 7.9cm  
- Wing area: 14 rounds = 5cm
- Lower body: 22 rounds = 7.9cm
- Tail taper: 4 dec rounds + 4 plain = 8 rounds ~2.9cm
- Total main tube: ~17+22+14+22+8 = 83 rounds = 29.6cm ≈ 30cm ✓

**Wings** - Delta wings, swept back. TB1 has wings that mount at roughly mid-body. They're long, swept back, fairly thin. I'll knit them flat.

For the delta wing shape, I'll create a triangular piece:
- The root (where it meets the body) is about 5cm long = 14 rows along body
- The wing extends outward about 6cm = 12 sts wide
- Swept forward-to-back
- Create 2 wings (left and right), knitted flat

Wing construction (make 2, mirror image):
- Cast on for the trailing edge tip: few sts
- Increase to form the triangle

Actually, let me think of wings as rectangles that I shape. Simple approach:
- CO 3 sts at the tip
- Inc 1 st each side every other row to build the delta shape
- Continue until root edge is long enough to span the wing section

Wing dimensions: root ~8cm (body circumference section), span ~7cm
At 2sts/cm, root = 16 sts; at 2.8rows/cm, height = 7cm × 2.8 = ~20 rows

For a swept delta wing (in plan view):
- Leading edge sweeps back at about 60° from body
- Trailing edge is fairly straight/swept at 45°

I'll simplify:
- CO 3 sts at wingtip
- Row 1 (WS): purl
- Row 2 (RS): kfb, k to last st, kfb (+2 sts per 2 rows)
- Repeat until 20 sts on needle (from 3, adding 2 every RS row = 8 RS rows + CO = 3 + 16 = 19... close)
- Let me say: inc row every RS row until 21 sts (9 inc rows = 3 + 18 = 21 sts)
- Then work straight for 4 rows for the root attachment area
- Cast off

Actually wings on TB1 are quite specific. Let me describe them as swept-back stabilizer wings:
- They mount at mid-body
- Swept back at approximately 45°
- Roughly triangular

Let me use a simpler geometric approach:
Cast on 2 sts at tip, work increases on one side only to create a right-triangle shape wing that gets attached with the long (hypotenuse) side against the body and the right-angle corner at the back bottom:

Wing (Make 2):
- CO 2 sts
- Row 1 (WS): p all
- Inc row (RS): k1, m1, k to end (+1 each RS row on one side)
- Repeat until 14 sts (12 inc rows)
- Cast off

This gives a right-triangle wing with:
- Hypotenuse (body edge): √(12² + 12²) ≈ 17 sts diagonal... 
Hmm this is getting complicated.

Let me go with a simpler, more standard toy-knitting approach:

**Wings (Make 2):**
Using silver yarn, cast on 18 sts.
Row 1 (WS): p all
Row 2 (RS): k to last 2 sts, k2tog (dec 1 at trailing edge)
Row 3: p all
Row 4: k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Continue decreasing 1 st at one end every RS row until 2 sts remain, cast off.

This gives an 18-st base wing that tapers to a point. Total rows = (18-2) = 16 RS rows + purled WS = 32 rows = 32/2.8 = 11.4cm height.
Base width = 18 sts / 2 = 9cm.

That's actually a reasonable wing. The base (9cm) gets seamed along the body.

Hmm, but the total circumference is only 30sts = 15cm. Two wings at 9cm base would be too large relative to the body. Let me scale down.

Wings: CO 12 sts, decrease 1 at one end every RS row until 2 sts, cast off.
- Rows: (12-2) = 10 RS rows = 20 rows total
- Height: 20/2.8 = 7.1cm
- Base: 12/2 = 6cm ✓

Two wings of 6cm base - reasonable for a 15cm circumference body (they'd span about 12cm combined, leaving 3cm on body between them, or they could wrap slightly).

**Rear Fins (Make 2, or 4):**
TB1 has smaller rear stabilising fins. CO 8 sts, decrease every RS row:
- Rows: (8-2) = 6 RS rows = 12 rows
- Height: 12/2.8 = 4.3cm
- Base: 8/2 = 4cm

**Rocket Nozzles:**
Small I-cord tubes or small tubes worked in the round. Make 3-5 small tubes:
- CO 6 sts on DPNs
- Work 4 rounds of I-cord or tube
- Dec to close or cast off and leave open
- Attach to base

Let me also add:
- A red stripe section using intarsia/stranded colourwork (TB1 has red markings)
- Red section at wing roots / fuselage

**Colour scheme:**
- Main: Silver/grey (MC)
- Accent: Red (CC) for fuselage stripes
- Additional: Small amount of white or light grey for details

**Materials:**
- MC: Silver/grey worsted weight yarn - approximately 150m
- CC: Red worsted weight yarn - approximately 30m
- Small amount of white/pale grey for optional details
- 4mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)
- 4mm straight needles (for wings/fins)
- Toy stuffing/fibrefill
- Stitch markers, tapestry needle

**Tension**: 22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm in stocking stitch in the round on 4mm needles

Wait, let me recalculate with a slightly different tension that's more standard for worsted:
Standard worsted: 20 sts × 28 rows = 10cm (4") in st st
So: 2 sts/cm, 2.8 rows/cm

Let me finalise with these numbers:

Actually, for toys knitted in the round, tension is often slightly tighter to prevent stuffing showing through. Let me use:
Tension: 22 sts × 28 rows = 10cm in st st in the round on 4mm needles (or adjust needle size)

Hmm, let me just specify 4mm needles and standard worsted tension of 20st/28rows, as that's the spec given. Note that knitters may want to go down to 3.5mm for tighter fabric.

Final body dimensions:
- 30 sts around body = 30/2 = 15cm circumference, diameter = 15/π = 4.8cm ≈ 5cm ✓
- Total height ~30cm ✓

This is good. Let me now write the complete pattern.

Let me re-plan all sections cleanly:

### SECTION 1: NOSE CONE (worked top-down, in the round)
CO 6 sts, join, PM
Rounds 1-2: K all (6 sts)
Round 3 (Inc): (Kfb) × 6 = 12 sts
Rounds 4-5: K all
Round 6 (Inc): (K1, Kfb) × 6 = 18 sts
Rounds 7-8: K all
Round 9 (Inc): (K2, Kfb) × 6 = 24 sts
Rounds 10-11: K all
Round 12 (Inc): (K3, Kfb) × 6 = 30 sts
Rounds 13-17: K all (5 rounds plain)

Total: 17 rounds → 17/2.8 ≈ 6.1cm nose cone ✓
Ends at 30 sts.

### SECTION 2: UPPER BODY (30 sts, 22 rounds)
Add red stripe: 2 rounds in CC (Red)
Then continue in MC

Rounds 18-19: K in CC (Red) — thin red stripe band
Rounds 20-39: K in MC (Silver) — 20 rounds = 7.1cm

Let me count more carefully:
After round 17 (end of nose cone), work:
Rounds 18-19: CC (red stripe) = 2 rounds
Rounds 20-41: MC = 22 rounds upper body

That's 22 rounds upper body + 2 red stripe = 24 rounds = 24/2.8 = 8.6cm upper body section

### SECTION 3: WING ZONE (14 rounds, 30 sts)
Rounds 42-55 (14 rounds) = 5cm
During this section, wings are NOT part of main body knitting - they're added separately.
Add a red stripe at start:
Rounds 42-43: CC (red stripe)
Rounds 44-55: MC (12 rounds plain)

### SECTION 4: LOWER BODY (30 sts, 22 rounds)  
Rounds 56-77: K in MC = 22 rounds = 7.9cm

### SECTION 5: TAIL FIN ZONE (14 rounds, 30 sts)
Rounds 78-79: CC (red stripe)
Rounds 80-91: MC = 12 rounds
(Total tail fin zone: 14 rounds = 5cm)

### SECTION 6: BASE TAPER
Round 92: (K3, K2tog) × 6 = 24 sts
Round 93: K all
Round 94: (K2, K2tog) × 6 = 18 sts
Round 95: K all
Round 96: (K1, K2tog) × 6 = 12 sts
Round 97: K all
STUFF FIRMLY now
Round 98: (K2tog) × 6 = 6 sts
Cut yarn, thread through remaining 6 sts, draw up tightly.

Taper: 7 rounds = 7/2.8 = 2.5cm

TOTAL HEIGHT:
- Nose cone: 17 rounds = 6.1cm
- Red stripe + upper body: 24 rounds = 8.6cm
- Wing zone: 14 rounds = 5.0cm
- Lower body: 22 rounds = 7.9cm
- Tail zone: 14 rounds = 5.0cm
- Base taper: 7 rounds = 2.5cm
TOTAL: 98 rounds = 35.1cm

Hmm that's a bit tall. Let me trim:
- Nose cone: 17 rounds = 6.1cm
- Upper body: 20 rounds (inc 2 red) = 7.1cm
- Wing zone: 12 rounds (inc 2 red) = 4.3cm
- Lower body: 20 rounds = 7.1cm
- Tail zone: 12 rounds (inc 2 red) = 4.3cm
- Base taper: 7 rounds = 2.5cm
TOTAL: 88 rounds = 31.4cm — close to 30cm, acceptable

Let me adjust:
- Nose cone: 15 rounds = 5.4cm
- Upper body: 18 rounds (inc 2 red) = 6.4cm
- Wing zone: 12 rounds (inc 2 red) = 4.3cm  
- Lower body: 18 rounds = 6.4cm
- Tail zone: 12 rounds (inc 2 red) = 4.3cm
- Base taper: 7 rounds = 2.5cm
TOTAL: 82 rounds = 29.3cm ≈ 30cm ✓

Let me redo the nose cone with 15 rounds:
CO 6 sts
Rounds 1-2: K (6 sts)
Round 3: (Kfb) × 6 = 12 sts
Rounds 4-5: K
Round 6: (K1, Kfb) × 6 = 18 sts
Rounds 7-8: K
Round 9: (K2, Kfb) × 6 = 24 sts
Rounds 10-11: K
Round 12: (K3, Kfb) × 6 = 30 sts
Rounds 13-15: K (3 plain rounds)
Total: 15 rounds = 15/2.8 = 5.4cm ✓

Now the cumulative round numbers:
End of nose cone: Round 15, 30 sts
Upper body:
- Rounds 16-17: CC red stripe (2 rounds)
- Rounds 18-33: MC (16 rounds)
Total upper body: 18 rounds = 6.4cm
End: Round 33, 30 sts

Wing zone:
- Rounds 34-35: CC red stripe
- Rounds 36-45: MC (10 rounds)
Total wing zone: 12 rounds = 4.3cm
End: Round 45, 30 sts

Lower body:
- Rounds 46-63: MC (18 rounds) = 6.4cm
End: Round 63, 30 sts

Tail zone:
- Rounds 64-65: CC red stripe
- Rounds 66-75: MC (10 rounds)
Total tail zone: 12 rounds = 4.3cm
End: Round 75, 30 sts

Base taper:
- Round 76: (K3, K2tog) × 6 = 24 sts
- Round 77: K
- Round 78: (K2, K2tog) × 6 = 18 sts
- Round 79: K
- Round 80: (K1, K2tog) × 6 = 12 sts
- Round 81: K
- STUFF
- Round 82: (K2tog) × 6 = 6 sts
Total: 7 rounds = 2.5cm
End: Round 82

GRAND TOTAL: 82 rounds
Total height: (15+18+12+18+12+7)/2.8 = 82/2.8 = 29.3cm ✓ (approximately 30cm/12")

Now let me verify math:

Nose cone:
- Round 3: 6 → 12 ✓ (6 × kfb = 12)
- Round 6: 12 → 18 ✓ ((k1, kfb) × 6 = 12 + 6 = 18)
- Round 9: 18 → 24 ✓ ((k2, kfb) × 6 = 18 + 6 = 24)
- Round 12: 24 → 30 ✓ ((k3, kfb) × 6 = 24 + 6 = 30)

Base taper:
- Round 76: (k3, k2tog) × 6 = 30 - 6 = 24 ✓ (6 sections of 5 sts, dec 1 each = 24)
- Round 78: (k2, k2tog) × 6 = 24 - 6 = 18 ✓ (6 sections of 4 sts, dec 1 each = 18)
- Round 80: (k1, k2tog) × 6 = 18 - 6 = 12 ✓
- Round 82: (k2tog) × 6 = 12 - 6 = 6 ✓

All verified!

Now WINGS:
Main delta wings (Make 2):
CO 14 sts using MC
Row 1 (WS): P all
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog — 13 sts
Row 3: P all
Row 4: K to last 2 sts, K2tog — 12 sts
Continue: decrease 1 st at END of every RS row (this creates the swept-back trailing edge)
Continue until 2 sts remain.

Starting from 14 sts, decreasing 1 every RS row:
14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 = 12 decrease rows
12 RS rows + 12 WS rows = 24 rows
Height: 24/2.8 = 8.6cm
Base: 14/2 = 7cm

Hmm, that's quite a tall wing. Let me reduce:

CO 10 sts:
10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 = 8 decrease rows
8 RS + 8 WS rows = 16 rows total
Height: 16/2.8 = 5.7cm
Base: 10/2 = 5cm ✓ (nice and proportional)

Actually for a more dramatic swept wing, let me use a different decrease pattern:

**Main Wings** (Make 2):
CO 12 sts
Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2 (RS): K2tog, K to end — 11 sts (dec at FRONT/leading edge)
AND also dec at trailing edge every 2 RS rows for swept look

This is getting complex. Let me simplify for clarity:

For the main wings, I'll create them as right triangles with decreases at one end:

**Main Swept Wings (Make 2):**
CO 12 sts in MC
Row 1 (WS): P all
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog (13... wait CO is 12, so k10, k2tog = 11)
Row 3: P all  
Row 4: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 10 sts
...continue dec 1 at trailing edge every RS row until 2 sts
That's (12-2) = 10 decrease rows = 10 RS + 10 WS = 20 rows
Height: 20/2.8 = 7.1cm
Base: 12/2 = 6cm

For adding depth/looking more delta-shaped, I could also have the leading edge increase then decrease, but that adds complexity. Let's keep it as right-triangle wings for a beginner-friendly construction within the advanced pattern.

Wait - actually for a more realistic swept-wing look, let me do a parallelogram shape with decreases at both ends at different rates:

**Main Wings (Make 2):**
CO 8 sts
Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 8 sts (no change - just slanting the wing)
Repeat rows 1-2 for 14 rows (this parallelogram leans without changing width)
Row 15: P
Row 16 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 7 sts (start narrowing)
Row 17: P
Row 18: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 6 sts
...continue until 2 sts, cast off.

Hmm, this is getting overly complicated. Let me just go with simple triangular wings that look good:

**Main Wings (Make 2):**
Cast on 3 sts. Work in st st, increasing 1 st at each end of every RS row until there are 19 sts. Cast off.

Starting 3 sts, +2 every RS row:
3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19 = 8 increase RS rows = 16 rows + 1 more WS
Height: 16/2.8 = 5.7cm (from tip to base)
Base (cast-off): 19 sts = 9.5cm — this may be too wide.

OK let me try:
CO 3 sts, inc 1 each end every RS row until 15 sts:
3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 = 6 RS rows = 12 rows
Height: 12/2.8 = 4.3cm
Base: 15/2 = 7.5cm

With two wings, total span = 15 + 15 cm = 30cm... with a 5cm diameter body. That seems quite wide. Maybe the "base" doesn't cast off at full width - instead it's the maximum width and wings mount pointing backward.

You know what, let me just go with simple right-triangle wings:

**Main Wings (Make 2):**  
CO 10 sts
Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2 (RS): K2tog, K to end (-1 at leading edge)
Row 3: P
Row 4: K to last 2 sts, K2tog (-1 at trailing edge)
Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 1-2
Rows 7-8: repeat 3-4

Actually I'm overcomplicating this. Let me do a clean simple wing:

**Main Wings (Make 2):**
CO 12 sts
Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2 (RS): K2tog, K to end = 11 sts
Row 3: P2tog, P to end = 10 sts
Row 4: K2tog, K to end = 9 sts
Row 5: P2tog, P to end = 8 sts
Continue decreasing 1 at beginning of every row until 2 sts.
Cast off.

This creates a triangle where both edges decrease. But simultaneously:
12 → 11 → 10 → 9... → 2 = 10 decrease rows = 10 total rows (mixed RS/WS)
Height: 10/2.8 = 3.6cm — quite small

Let's start with more sts: CO 18 sts
Decrease 1 st at beg of every row: 18, 17, 16...2 = 16 rows
Height: 16/2.8 = 5.7cm
Max width at CO: 18/2 = 9cm

Span of each wing: 9cm is reasonable for a 5cm diameter body. Not too large.

But I want swept wings, not symmetric triangles. For TB1, the leading edge is steeper (more angled toward nose) and the trailing edge is less steep.

For the pattern, let's describe:

**Main Delta Wings (Make 2, one for each side):**
The leading edge (front, facing nose) is shaped with faster decreases; the trailing edge with slower decreases, creating a swept delta shape.

CO 16 sts
Row 1 (WS): P all
Row 2 (RS) [leading edge dec]: K2tog, K to end = 15 sts
Row 3: P all
Row 4: K2tog, K to end = 14 sts
Row 5: P all
Row 6: K2tog, K to end = 13 sts
Row 7: P all
Row 8: K2tog, K to end = 12 sts
Row 9: P all
Row 10: K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 10 sts [start trailing edge dec too]
Row 11: P all
Row 12: K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 8 sts
Row 13: P all
Row 14: K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 6 sts
Row 15: P all
Row 16: K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 4 sts
Row 17: P all
Row 18: (K2tog) twice = 2 sts
Cast off.

Height: 18/2.8 = 6.4cm
Base (cast on edge, which is the body-attachment edge): 16/2 = 8cm

This is good! The leading edge decreases every RS row for the first section, then both edges decrease toward the tip.

But I realize the cast on edge should be the body-attachment edge. Let me re-examine orientation:
- The straight CO edge (8cm long) will be sewn vertically to the body
- The tip points outward
- The shape describes a swept-back wing

Actually, for attachment to the body, I'd want the wing root edge to be a certain length. The wing zone on the body is 12 rounds = 4.3cm. The CO edge (8cm) would be sewn along the body, which wraps around partially.

Hmm, maybe the wing root should be shorter. Let me use CO 10 sts:

CO 10 sts (wing root attachment edge, vertical along body = 5cm)
...and work from root outward.

OK I think I need to really think about wing orientation for attachment:

TB1 wings:
- Wing root runs along the fuselage (vertically, parallel to body axis)
- Wing extends horizontally outward from fuselage  
- Swept back (trailing edge below leading edge in vertical orientation since nose is up)

So for knitting:
- The wing is knitted flat
- One straight edge is the VERTICAL root edge along body
- I need to knit the wing so the root edge is one selvedge edge

This means I knit the wing in rows PERPENDICULAR to the attachment direction:
- Each row of knitting extends FROM body outward
- Rows accumulate vertically along the body

So:
- Rows = vertical height along body
- Stitches = horizontal extension from body

**Wing construction (attachment-first approach):**
This means I'd knit the wing with one edge as the root:
CO at base of wing zone position, work in rows that run perpendicular (outward from body), simultaneously shaping the tip.

But this is harder to get the swept shape. Let me just do it the easy way (knitting flat, seaming later) and make the dimensions work:

**Delta Wing (Make 2):**
Note: The straight CO edge will be sewn VERTICALLY along the body.

CO 14 sts [This will be the wing root, sewn along body; at 2sts/cm = 7cm long]
Work in st st (K RS, P WS) for 2 rows — establishing the front of the wing (leading edge row)
Then begin shaping the swept tip:
Row 3 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 13 sts
Row 4 (WS): P all
Row 5: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 12 sts
Row 6: P all
Continue decreasing 1 st at same end every RS row until 2 sts remain.
(12 decrease rows after row 2, total rows = 2 + 24 = 26 rows)

Wait: CO 14, dec 1 every RS row starting row 3:
After dec rows: 14-1-1-1... until 2
Number of decs: 12
RS dec rows: 12 (rows 3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17,19,21,23,25)
WS plain rows: 12 (rows 4,6,8,...,26)
Plus setup rows 1-2 = 28 total rows

Width (span) = 28/2.8 = 10cm
Root (CO edge): 14/2 = 7cm

So the wing root is 7cm (sewn along 7cm of body height) and the wing extends 10cm outward. 

But the entire body is only ~30cm tall! Having wings that extend 10cm seems large but for a toy that might be OK.

Actually, let me reconsider. The wing SPAN (tip to body) needs to match the aesthetic. TB1 is a pretty sleek craft with relatively small wings. Let me target:
- Wing span (body to tip): ~5-6cm
- Wing root (along body): ~4-5cm

At 2 rows/cm (wait, 2.8 rows/cm):
- Wing rows for 5cm span: 5 × 2.8 ≈ 14 rows
- CO sts for 4cm root: 4 × 2 = 8 sts

**Delta Wing (Make 2):**
CO 8 sts
Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2 (RS, setup): K all
Row 3 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 7 sts
Row 4: P
Row 5: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 6 sts
Row 6: P
Row 7: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 5 sts
Row 8: P
Row 9: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 4 sts
Row 10: P
Row 11: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 3 sts
Row 12: P
Row 13: K1, K2tog = 2 sts
Row 14: P2tog = 1 st
Fasten off.

Total rows: 14
Span: 14/2.8 = 5cm ✓
Root: 8/2 = 4cm ✓

These are small but will look proportional on the body. But this is a triangle shape knitted sideways... the ROOT (CO edge = 4cm) goes along the body, and the wing extends 5cm outward. The wing would look like a right triangle with legs 4cm × 5cm.

For a swept look, the decreases should be at a specific edge to create the backward sweep. Decreasing at the TRAILING edge (back) makes the wing sweep back. This looks reasonable.

For 2 wings and 2 matching this is Make 2 - but they need to be mirror images on the left and right side. For right triangle wings with dec at one edge, just sew them on with the point facing backward/downward for both, which naturally mirrors them.

**Rear Stabiliser Fins (Make 2 or 4):**
TB1 has smaller fins at the rear. Make 4 smaller triangular fins or 2 larger ones.

For 2 fins (vertical stabilisers):
CO 6 sts
Row 1: P
Row 2: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 5 sts
Row 3: P
Row 4: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 4 sts
Row 5: P
Row 6: K to last 2 sts, K2tog = 3 sts
Row 7: P
Row 8: K1, K2tog = 2 sts
Row 9: P2tog = 1 st, fasten off

Rows: 9
Span: 9/2.8 = 3.2cm
Root: 6/2 = 3cm

**Rocket Nozzles (Make 3):**
Small tubes at the base.
CO 8 sts, join to work in the round on DPNs
Rounds 1-4: K (I-cord style or tube) = 4/2.8 = 1.4cm length
Round 5: (K2tog) × 4 = 4 sts
Thread yarn through, close.

Or: Make as I-cord:
CO 4 sts on DPN
Work I-cord for 8 rows = 8/2.8 = 2.9cm
The 3 nozzles cluster at the base.

Let me use the small tube approach:
CO 8 sts on DPNs, join
Work 6 rounds = 6/2.8 = 2.1cm
Cast off. Leave open at both ends (or close one end).

For stuffed toy, leave cast-off end open (to show nozzle opening) and sew CO end to base of rocket.

OK this is all getting complex. Let me now consolidate and write the actual pattern, making sure all instructions are clear.

**SUMMARY OF PIECES:**
1. Main Body (worked in the round, top to bottom) 
2. Main Wings × 2 (worked flat)
3. Rear Stabiliser Fins × 2 (worked flat, smaller)
4. Rocket Nozzle Tubes × 3 (small tubes in the round)

Let me also add a small cockpit window detail - possibly just embroidered or with a contrast yarn bobble.

Now let me write the final pattern. I'll also need to include:
- How to pick up and where to attach wings
- How to join rocket nozzles
- Colour pattern/stripe placement
- Finishing (seaming, stuffing sequence)

**YARN QUANTITIES:**
Main colour (silver): Body = 82 rounds × (30 sts circumference) = 2460 sts... 

Let me calculate more practically:
Body is a tube, roughly 15cm circumference × 30cm height = 450 sq cm
Wings: 2 × (0.5 × 4 × 5) = 20 sq cm each = 40 sq cm
Fins: 2 × (0.5 × 3 × 3.2) = 9.6 sq cm
Nozzles: 3 × (8cm circumference × 2cm height) = 48 sq cm

Total fabric area ≈ 550 sq cm

For worsted at 20st/10cm: 
Row height = 10cm/28 rows = 0.357cm per row
Each row = 15cm circumference = 15cm per round at 20sts/10cm...

Let me just estimate from experience:
- A similar sized stuffed animal uses about 100-200m worsted for the main colour
- I'll say: MC (Silver): 180m, CC (Red): 20m, small amounts of other colours

Actually with the body being quite large:
Body cylinder: 30cm height × 15cm circumference = using approximately... 
Each round uses 15cm of yarn × 82 rounds = 1230cm = 12.3m just for the body thread... but each stitch uses more yarn than just 1 circumference length.

A more accurate yarn estimation: For stocking stitch in worsted, approximately 14m per 100 stitches. Each round is 30 sts. 82 rounds = 2460 sts = 2460/100 × 14 = 344m.

Wings: 2 × (10 + 9 + 8 + 7 + 6 + 5 + 4 + 3 + 2 + 1 = 55 sts... actually let me count rows × avg sts)
Wing: 14 rows, avg sts = (8+2)/2 = 5 sts = 70 sts. ×2 wings = 140 sts = 140/100 × 14 = 19.6m ≈ 20m

Fins: smaller, ~15m for both
Nozzles: ~15m

Red (CC): used for stripes = 3 stripe pairs of 2 rounds each = 6 rounds × 30 sts = 180 sts = 25.2m → round to 30m

Grand total MC: 344 + 20 + 15 + 15 = ~400m
CC (Red): ~30m

I'll round up: MC: 400m, CC: 30m

Let me double-check this makes sense: a typical 50g ball of worsted = ~100-120m. So 400m MC = 3.5 × 50g balls. That seems reasonable for a stuffed 30cm toy.

Let me say: MC approximately 350m (4 × 50g balls / 2 × 100g skeins), CC approximately 30m (small amount or 1 × 50g ball which gives surplus).

OK, I think I have enough to write the pattern now. Let me write it comprehensively.

One more thing - I should specify needle size. For worsted weight, 4mm is standard. For toy knitting (to create tighter fabric), I'll recommend 3.5mm-4mm, erring toward 3.5mm or 4mm with firm tension.

I'll specify 4mm as primary, with 3.5mm as option for tighter tension preferred for stuffed toys.

For DPNs for nozzles: 4mm DPNs.

Let me also add: Optional standing stability - the base can have a cardboard circle insert or plastic canvas to help TB1 stand.

Now I'll also think about the stripe colours more specifically:
TB1 is primarily silver/blue-grey
Has red markings on the fuselage (registration stripes etc.)

For the softie, I'll simplify to:
- MC: silver/light grey worsted (like Cascade 220 in Silver or similar)
- CC1: Red (bright red)
- Optional CC2: White or pale blue for cockpit detail

Alright, let me now write the complete pattern!

One more check on round numbering consistency:

Round 1-2: K (6 sts) [nose tip]
Round 3: (Kfb) × 6 = 12 sts ✓
Rounds 4-5: K [12 sts]
Round 6: (K1, Kfb) × 6 = 18 sts ✓ [6 repeats of 2 sts with last kfb = 18]
Rounds 7-8: K [18 sts]
Round 9: (K2, Kfb) × 6 = 24 sts ✓ [6 repeats of 3 sts with last kfb = 24]
Rounds 10-11: K [24 sts]
Round 12: (K3, Kfb) × 6 = 30 sts ✓ [6 repeats of 4 sts with last kfb = 30]
Rounds 13-15: K [30 sts, 3 rounds]

NOSE CONE: 15 rounds. End with 30 sts.

Rounds 16-17: CC (Red stripe) [30 sts]
Rounds 18-35: MC [18 rounds plain] — UPPER BODY
(18 plain rounds + 2 red = 20 rounds upper body section = 7.1cm)

END OF ROUND 35: 30 sts

WING ZONE:
Rounds 36-37: CC (Red stripe) [30 sts]
Rounds 38-47: MC [10 rounds plain]
(12 total rounds = 4.3cm)

END OF ROUND 47: 30 sts

LOWER BODY:
Rounds 48-65: MC [18 rounds = 6.4cm]

END OF ROUND 65: 30 sts

TAIL FIN ZONE:
Rounds 66-67: CC (Red stripe)
Rounds 68-77: MC [10 rounds]
(12 total = 4.3cm)

END OF ROUND 77: 30 sts

BASE TAPER:
Round 78: (K3, K2tog) × 6 = 24 sts ✓
Round 79: K [24 sts]
Round 80: (K2, K2tog) × 6 = 18 sts ✓
Round 81: K [18 sts]
Round 82: (K1, K2tog) × 6 = 12 sts ✓
Round 83: K [12 sts]
STUFF FIRMLY HERE
Round 84: (K2tog) × 6 = 6 sts ✓
Round 85: K [6 sts] — optional, or just draw through

Hmm I miscounted. Let me redo:
After tail fin zone ends at round 77 (30 sts):

Round 78: (K3, K2tog) × 6 = 24 sts [30 - 6 = 24] ✓
Round 79: K all 24 sts
Round 80: (K2, K2tog) × 6 = 18 sts [24 - 6 = 18] ✓
Round 81: K all 18 sts
Round 82: (K1, K2tog) × 6 = 12 sts [18 - 6 = 12] ✓
Round 83: K all 12 sts
STUFF NOW
Round 84: (K2tog) × 6 = 6 sts [12 - 6 = 6] ✓
Cut yarn, draw through 6 sts, close.

Total rounds: 84
Height: 84/2.8 = 30cm ✓ 

Actually 84/2.8 = 30.0cm - PERFECT! ✓

Let me recalculate sections:
- Nose cone: rounds 1-15 = 15 rounds
- Upper body: rounds 16-35 = 20 rounds
- Wing zone: rounds 36-47 = 12 rounds
- Lower body: rounds 48-65 = 18 rounds
- Tail zone: rounds 66-77 = 12 rounds
- Base taper: rounds 78-84 = 7 rounds
Total: 15+20+12+18+12+7 = 84 rounds ✓

30.0cm tall ✓



Now let me check the wing dimensions once more:

**Main Wings (Make 2) - MC:**
CO 8 sts
Row 1 (WS): P all [8 sts]
Row 2 (RS): K all [8 sts - setup row]
Row 3 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog [7 sts]
Row 4 (WS): P all
Row 5: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [6 sts]
Row 6: P all
Row 7: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [5 sts]
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [4 sts]
Row 10: P all
Row 11: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [3 sts]
Row 12: P all
Row 13: K1, K2tog [2 sts]
Row 14: P2tog [1 st]
Fasten off, cut yarn leaving long tail.

Total rows: 14
Span (extension from body): 14/2.8 = 5cm ✓
Root (CO edge): 8/2 = 4cm ✓

The CO edge (4cm, 8 sts) is sewn vertically along the body.
The wing spans 5cm outward from the body.
This is a right-triangle wing: 4cm root × 5cm span.

Wings are positioned at the wing zone (rounds 36-47).
CO edge goes from mid-wing-zone to top of wing zone (or wherever looks best).

For 4cm root = 8 rows of stitches on body... wing zone is 12 rounds = 4.3cm. The 4cm wing root fits nicely in the 4.3cm wing zone, with the rest of the zone acting as a visual "fairing."

**Rear Stabiliser Fins (Make 2) - MC:**
CO 6 sts
Row 1 (WS): P all [6 sts]
Row 2 (RS): K to last 2 sts, K2tog [5 sts]
Row 3: P all
Row 4: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [4 sts]
Row 5: P all
Row 6: K to last 2 sts, K2tog [3 sts]
Row 7: P all
Row 8: K1, K2tog [2 sts]
Row 9: P2tog [1 st]
Fasten off.

Rows: 9
Span: 9/2.8 = 3.2cm ✓
Root: 6/2 = 3cm ✓

These fins go in the tail zone (rounds 66-77 = 4.3cm). The 3cm root fits in 4.3cm ✓

**Rocket Nozzle Tubes (Make 3) - MC:**
CO 8 sts onto DPNs, divide over 3 or 4 needles, join to work in the round.
Rounds 1-6: K all [8 sts]
Round 7: (K2tog) × 4 = 4 sts
Cut yarn, thread through 4 sts, draw up gently — this is the BACK of the nozzle (sewn to base).
The open end (CO edge) is the nozzle opening.

Height: 7 rounds (including the closing round) ... 7/2.8 = 2.5cm 
Actually just 6 rounds of tube + closing = 6/2.8 ≈ 2.1cm length of nozzle tube.
Outer diameter: 8 sts / π ≈ 8/6.28 = 1.27cm diameter (at 2 sts/cm) → circumference = 8/2 = 4cm... 

Wait: circumference = sts / tension = 8 sts / 2 sts per cm = 4cm
Diameter = 4/π = 1.27cm ≈ 1.3cm ✓ (reasonable small nozzle)

MATERIALS SUMMARY:
- MC (Silver/Light Grey): ~350m worsted weight
- CC1 (Red): ~25m worsted weight
- 4mm circular needle (80-100cm) for magic loop method, or 4mm DPNs (set of 5)
- 4mm DPNs for nozzles (or same needles)
- 4mm straight needles (for wings and fins, or use circular)
- Polyester toy stuffing/fibrefill ~100-150g
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Optional: small piece of stiff felt or plastic canvas for base stability
- Optional: small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread for cockpit

FINISHED SIZE:
Height: approximately 30cm (12")
Body diameter: approximately 5cm (2")
Wing span (tip to tip): approximately 10 + body diameter = 10 + 5 = 15cm (6")

Actually wing tip to tip = 5cm wing + 5cm body (diameter) + 5cm wing = 15cm (6") total span ✓

TENSION (GAUGE):
20 sts × 28 rounds = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch in the round

OK, now let me also think about embellishments:
- The cockpit: Thunderbird 1 has a cockpit just below the nose. I can suggest embroidering a small oval in white/pale blue thread.
- The "International Rescue" logo (IR) could be embroidered in red on the body.
- Registration number: Thunderbird 1 is generally just silver with clean lines.

Alright, I have everything I need. Now let me write the full formal pattern!

Let me also plan the ABBREVIATIONS:
- CO: Cast on
- BO: Cast off (British: Cast off)
- K: Knit
- P: Purl
- K2tog: Knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- P2tog: Purl two together
- Kfb: Knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
- M1: Make one (increase) 
- PM: Place marker
- SM: Slip marker
- RS: Right side
- WS: Wrong side
- St(s): Stitch(es)
- MC: Main colour
- CC1: Contrast colour 1
- Rep: Repeat
- Rem: Remaining
- DPN(s): Double-pointed needle(s)

Now for the pattern notes, I should mention:
1. The body is worked from the nose tip downward in the round
2. Wings and fins are worked flat and seamed on
3. Nozzles are small tubes worked in the round
4. Stuffing sequence
5. The "front" of TB1 (where the cockpit is) should be established early with a PM or marker

Let me also think about colour placement in more detail for the red stripes. TB1 in the show is essentially:
- Overall silver/metallic grey
- Some red horizontal bands/rings
- Cockpit canopy (dark blue/tinted)
- Possibly some yellow/white detail markings

For simplicity:
- 3 pairs of red stripe rounds (at transitions between sections as planned)
- Small white/pale yarn or embroidery for cockpit oval
- This gives a clean, recognisable effect

Now let me write the actual pattern text:

---

THUNDERBIRD 1 — INTERNATIONAL RESCUE VERTICAL SOFTIE

A knitted toy in the style of International Rescue's Thunderbird 1, the sleek silver rocket-plane from the classic television series. This stuffed softie stands approximately 30cm (12") tall with swept-back delta wings, rear stabiliser fins, and a cluster of rocket nozzles at the base. The pattern is rated advanced and uses knitting in the round, flat panel knitting, and three-dimensional construction.

---

Then Materials, Tension, Finished Measurements, etc.

One thing I want to double check: the wing attachment method. 

The CO edge of each wing (8 sts = 4cm) gets sewn vertically to the body at the wing zone position. The body at that point has 30 sts = 15cm circumference. 

Looking at TB1 from above, the wings extend from the sides at roughly 90° from the body axis (or slightly swept). With a circular body of 15cm circumference:
- The left wing attaches at approximately the 3 o'clock position
- The right wing attaches at approximately the 9 o'clock position
- They would both extend outward from the body

For a flat knitted wing to attach to a curved body, the seam will be slightly curved. The pattern should note to sew with the WS of the wing against the body, pinning in place before seaming.

Also: the wings should point backward (swept) with the decrease end of the triangle at the BOTTOM (toward rocket nozzles). The CO edge at top of wing zone, decrease pointing toward base. This gives the swept-back appearance when viewed from front or top.

Fins go at the tail zone, centered front and back (or offset around body).

Now for TB1 specifically, the cross-section... TB1 actually has wings that form a cross shape when viewed from below - or maybe just a conventional wing layout. Let me check what I know about TB1:

Thunderbird 1 is essentially a rocket aircraft that launches vertically. It has:
- A long, slender fuselage
- Mid-mounted delta/swept wings
- A small vertical tail fin (rather than horizontal stabilisers)
- Multiple rocket nozzles at the base
- A cockpit canopy partway down from the nose
- Red and silver livery with "International Rescue" markings

I believe the wings are arranged in an X-configuration or cross pattern when viewed from below (4 wings at 90° intervals), or they could be conventional 2-wing with 2 smaller tail fins.

For the softie, I'll go with:
- 2 main delta wings (left and right, at 90° to body axis)
- 2 smaller rear fins (front and rear, or left-right again lower down)

This is simpler to construct and looks great as a toy. The main wings go at the widest/mid point and the fins at the tail.

Or actually, looking at TB1 more carefully (from memory and common depictions), it seems to have a more complex arrangement - possibly swept wings at mid-body and then landing/stabilising fins at the base that fold out. For a softie simplification:
- 2 large swept wings at mid-body (left and right)
- 4 smaller fins at the base/tail section in an X arrangement, OR 2 fins front and back

I'll go with 2 large wings + 2 smaller rear fins for simplicity. The pattern can mention additional fins as an option.

Actually let me look at this differently and include 4 small fins in X-cross arrangement at the tail (which is more accurate to TB1) rather than 2 fins:

**Rear Fins (Make 4):**
CO 6 sts, work as before for 9 rows...
4 fins means 4 × 3cm root = 12cm of body covered around 15cm circumference = plausible with some gaps

Actually at 15cm circumference, four fins each taking up 2.5cm of circumference = 10cm covered, leaving 5cm between attachment points. That's fine.

Let me include 4 tail fins and position them evenly: front, back, left, right (90° apart).

OK, FINAL DECISION on pieces:
1. Main body (in the round, 84 rounds, top to bottom)
2. Main delta wings × 2 (flat, right-triangle, CO 8 sts, 14 rows)
3. Rear stabiliser fins × 4 (flat, right-triangle, CO 6 sts, 9 rows) — makes TB1 more 3D and authentic
4. Rocket nozzle tubes × 3 (in the round, CO 8 sts, 6 rounds + close)

OR: keep fins as 2 to simplify. Let me go with 4 for authenticity since this is an advanced pattern.

Actually, for the rear fins on TB1, I believe they're oriented differently - they might be like landing leg fairings rather than classic vertical/horizontal fins. For the softie, I'll position them at N/S/E/W (4 positions) which gives a nice even look.

WAIT - actually I now think TB1 has:
- Cross-like wing arrangement with 4 swept wings? Or just 2?
- And separate retractable landing legs at the base

For the TOY version, let's keep it visual and simplified:
- 2 main large swept wings at mid-body (most prominent feature)
- 4 small fins at tail section (for stability aesthetics)

These 4 small fins at 90° to each other will also help the toy stand upright if placed with the base down and fins outward (they can act as stabilising "feet" in addition to visual detail).

The fins as "feet" is actually a GREAT idea for the vertical display mode. The 4 fins help the toy balance!

This changes the fin construction slightly:
- The fins need to be more structural at the base
- Can be seamed flat or left with a little stuffing

Actually for small fins without stuffing (sewn flat onto the body), they'll be too flat to act as stabilisers. I'll add a note that for better standing ability, a cardboard circle can be inserted at the base.

OK, truly final version. Let me write the pattern now. I'll try to be concise but complete.

---

QUICK MATH SUMMARY FOR VERIFICATION:

Body:
- Total rounds: 84
- Total height: 84 ÷ 2.8 = 30.0cm ✓
- Body circumference: 30 sts ÷ 2 = 15cm ✓
- Body diameter: 15 ÷ π = 4.77cm ≈ 5cm ✓

Section heights:
- Nose cone (rounds 1-15): 15 ÷ 2.8 = 5.4cm
- Red stripe + upper body (rounds 16-35): 20 ÷ 2.8 = 7.1cm
- Wing zone (rounds 36-47): 12 ÷ 2.8 = 4.3cm
- Lower body (rounds 48-65): 18 ÷ 2.8 = 6.4cm
- Tail fin zone (rounds 66-77): 12 ÷ 2.8 = 4.3cm
- Base taper (rounds 78-84): 7 ÷ 2.8 = 2.5cm
Sum: 5.4+7.1+4.3+6.4+4.3+2.5 = 30.0cm ✓

Nose cone stitch progression:
Round 3: 6 → 12 [+6: (kfb)×6 ✓]
Round 6: 12 → 18 [+6: (k1, kfb)×6 ✓]
Round 9: 18 → 24 [+6: (k2, kfb)×6 ✓]
Round 12: 24 → 30 [+6: