purlJam

1. **Design Strategy**: Pokemon Quest Kabuto is a blocky, cube-like version of the fossil Pokemon Kabuto. In Pokemon Quest, all Pokemon have a "boxy" cube/rectangular style. Kabuto in Pokemon Quest appears as: - A brown domed/boxy shell on top with black dot markings - Black underside/belly - Yellow stubby legs (4 legs in a blocky style) - Red eyes on the front - Overall boxy/cubic shape Since the user wants NO magic rings and NO slip stitch rings, I need to use chain-start methods instead. For a round start without a magic ring, I'll use the chain-4 join method or simply ch 2 and work into the 2nd chain from hook. For Pokemon Quest style, the shape is essentially a rounded cube/box shape. I'll construct this as: - Main body: A boxy oval/sphere shape using chain start (ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook as alternative to magic ring) - The body will be the main piece - brown on top, black on bottom - Shell dots: Black embroidered circles or small flat circles sewn on - Eyes: Red safety eyes or embroidered red circles - Legs: 4 small yellow cylinders/tubes using chain start Wait - the user said no magic rings OR slip stitch rings. So I need to start every piece with a chain method. The standard alternative is: ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook (this creates a small starting hole but is beginner friendly and avoids magic ring). **Body Construction:** Pokemon Quest Kabuto's body is boxy/blocky. I'll create a modified sphere/oval that's slightly flattened. The top is brown (shell) and the bottom is black (underside). I can do color changes mid-piece. Actually, for a beginner-friendly pattern, let me think about the best approach: Option A: Work the body as a sphere with color change - brown for upper portion, black for lower portion Option B: Make top (brown shell) and bottom (black underside) as two flat circles/ovals and seam together Option A is cleaner for a beginner. I'll work from the bottom (black) up, doing a color change partway through. **Body Plan:** - Start black, work bottom increases - Work even rounds in black for lower portion - Switch to brown for upper portion - Work decreases in brown - Add shell markings (black French knots or small sewn circles) - Red eyes embroidered or small red circles **Leg Plan:** - 4 small yellow cylinders - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook - Work a few even rounds - Flatten and sew to body **Size:** With worsted weight, the body should come out approximately 3-4 inches, which is a good Pokemon Quest cube size. Let me plan the stitch counts: BODY (worked bottom up): - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st [12] - Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around [18] - Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around [24] - Rnds 5-6: sc around [24] — BLACK underside section - Rnd 7: Switch to BROWN, sc around [24] - Rnds 8-10: sc around in brown [24] - Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec) around [18] - Stuff firmly - Rnd 12: (sc, dec) around [12] - Rnd 13: dec around [6] - Fasten off, close The color change at Rnd 7 gives roughly half black half brown. Actually for Kabuto, the shell covers most of the body with just the underside black. So maybe: - Rnds 1-5: BLACK (bottom/underside) - Rnd 6 onward: BROWN (shell) Let me re-plan: - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch [6] BLACK - Rnd 2: inc each [12] BLACK - Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around [18] BLACK - Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around [24] BLACK - Rnd 5: sc around [24] BLACK - Rnd 6: sc around, switch to brown at end [24] BROWN starts - Rnds 7-9: sc around [24] BROWN - Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) around [18] BROWN - stuff - Rnd 11: (sc, dec) around [12] BROWN - Rnd 12: dec around [6] BROWN - Fasten off This gives a nice domed brown shell on top, black flat bottom. Good for Kabuto Quest style. **Shell Dots:** Kabuto has two large black oval/circular spots on its shell. I'll make these as small flat circles in black yarn and sew them on, OR embroider them. For beginner-friendliness, I'll make small flat circle appliques: - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to join, fasten off [6] - Make 2 of these **Eyes:** Red eyes - small red circles or embroidery. I'll make tiny flat circles: - Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook [4], fasten off - Make 2 in red OR use red safety eyes. I'll give both options. **Legs:** 4 yellow cylinders: - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnds 2-4: sc around [6] - Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing - Make 4 Wait, 6 stitches might be too wide for stubby legs. Let me keep it at 6 since worsted weight legs at 6 sts for 3-4 rounds will be about right for stubby Pokemon Quest legs. Actually for Pokemon Quest, the legs are very stubby and small. Let me do: - Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook [4] - Rnd 2: inc in each [8] - Rnds 3-4: sc around [8] - Flatten, no stuffing needed, sew to body Or even simpler for beginner: - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnd 2: sc around [6] - Rnd 3: sc around [6] - Flatten and sew Hmm, let me think about Pokemon Quest Kabuto more carefully. It has a large rounded shell body and tiny protruding legs. The legs are quite small and peg-like. I'll go with: LEGS (make 4): - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnds 2-3: sc around [6] - Do not stuff, flatten and sew to body This will create small stubby tube-like legs. **Shell Spot Dots (make 2):** - Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Fasten off, leave long tail - Sew to top of brown shell **Red Eyes (make 2) OR use red safety eyes:** - Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook [4] - Fasten off, leave long tail - Sew to front of black section **Assembly:** 1. Attach eyes to front of black section (slight upward placement) 2. Sew shell dots to top brown section 3. Attach 4 legs to underside/lower sides of body (2 front, 2 back) 2. **Construction Plan**: - Bottom-up construction - Single piece body with color change (black bottom → brown top) - Separate pieces: 4 yellow legs, 2 black shell spots, 2 red eyes (or safety eyes) - All pieces start with ch 2 method (no magic ring, no slip stitch ring) - Assembly at end 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Check that ch 2 start gives clean starting point - The color change from black to brown: carry yarn or cut and rejoin - For the black shell spots - they will be worked in the round without joining (continuing spiral) which technically IS a slip stitch ring if they want to join... Wait, I need to re-read the constraint. The user said "without magic rings or slip stitch rings" - I think this means: - No magic ring (adjustable ring start) - No slip stitch ring (the ch X, sl st to join to form a ring method) So the alternative start I'm using: ch 2, work X sc into the 2nd ch from hook - this is fine! It's not a magic ring or a slip stitch ring. For the small flat circle spots that are only 1 round of 6 sc - after working 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook, they'd just fasten off and leave a small circle. The initial ch 2 creates a tiny hole which is fine. Actually wait - when I say "continue in spiral" for amigurumi, there's no join, it's continuous spiral. So the pieces are worked in continuous rounds without slip stitching to join (which is the standard amigurumi technique). The "slip stitch ring" the user wants to avoid is specifically the STARTING method (ch X, sl st to form starting ring). I'm using ch 2, sc into 2nd ch as the start, which is fine. Let me also verify: for the eyes and shell spots that are essentially just 1 round flat circles, after working 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, I'll have a small flat circle. For the eyes (4 sc) even smaller. - Make sure to remind crocheter to use stitch marker for spiral rounds - The invisible decrease (invdec) is beginner friendly and looks cleaner - I'll note both invisible decrease and regular decrease since this is easy/beginner 4. **Final Calculations**: Body stitch counts: - Rnd 1: 6 sts - Rnd 2: 12 sts (6 increases) - Rnd 3: 18 sts (6 increases, pattern: sc, inc = 2 sts × 6 = 12 sts + ... wait) Let me recount: Rnd 3: (sc, inc) repeat around. Starting with 12 sts: each repeat uses 2 sts (1 sc + 1 inc) and produces 3 sts. 12÷2 = 6 repeats. 6×3 = 18. ✓ Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat around. Starting with 18 sts: each repeat uses 3 sts (2 sc + 1 inc) and produces 4 sts. 18÷3 = 6 repeats. 6×4 = 24. ✓ Rnd 5: sc around [24] ✓ Rnd 6 (color change): sc around [24] ✓ (change to brown on last pull-through of last st, or just at start of next round) Rnds 7-9: sc around [24] ✓ Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) around. Starting with 24 sts: each repeat uses 4 sts (2 sc + 2 for dec) and produces 3 sts. 24÷4 = 6 repeats. 6×3 = 18. ✓ Rnd 11: (sc, dec) around. Starting with 18 sts: each repeat uses 3 sts and produces 2 sts. 18÷3 = 6 repeats. 6×2 = 12. ✓ Rnd 12: dec around. Starting with 12 sts: 6 decreases = 6 sts. ✓ Legs: Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] Rnds 2-3: sc around [6] Make 4. ✓ Shell Spots (make 2): Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] Fasten off. ✓ Eyes (make 2, in red): Rnd 1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook [4] Fasten off. ✓ OR use 12mm red safety eyes. Size estimate with worsted weight (approx 5 sts per inch in sc): - Body width at max (24 sts): 24 ÷ (π × 5) ≈ 24 ÷ 15.7 ≈ 1.5" radius → ~3" diameter. - Actually for amigurumi, typical worsted weight gives about 4-4.5 sts/inch, so circumference of 24 sts ÷ 4.25 = ~5.6" circumference → diameter ~1.8". Hmm that seems small. Wait, let me recalculate. Amigurumi gauge is typically tighter. With a worsted weight yarn on a G hook: - Approximately 4 sc = 1 inch - 24 sts circumference = 24/4 = 6 inches circumference - Diameter = 6/π ≈ 1.9 inches That seems quite small. For a toy about 3 inches, I might want to go to 30 sts max. Let me reconsider. Actually, common amigurumi with worsted on E/F hook: gauge is roughly 4-4.5 sc per inch. A sphere started with 6 sts in magic ring, increased to 24 sts max typically yields about 2.5-3 inch sphere. With 24 sts max (worked in a cylinder section too), the body might be about 2.5-3 inches across, which is fine for a Pokemon Quest Kabuto - it's a small character. That's actually good for a palm-sized toy. If the user wants bigger, they can use bulky yarn. The finished toy at worsted weight should be approximately 3" tall and 3" wide which is cute and appropriate. Let me adjust the body to be a bit larger - maybe max 30 sts to get closer to 3-3.5 inches: REVISED BODY: - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [12] - Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around [18] - Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around [24] - Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around [30] - Rnds 6-7: sc around [30] — BLACK - Rnd 8: switch to brown, sc around [30] — BROWN - Rnds 9-11: sc around [30] - Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) around [24] - Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) around [18] — stuff firmly - Rnd 14: (sc, dec) around [12] - Rnd 15: dec around [6] - Fasten off Let me verify: Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × ? Starting with 24: each repeat = 4 sts → 5 sts. 24÷4 = 6 repeats. 6×5 = 30. ✓ Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) × ? Starting with 30: each repeat = 5 sts → 4 sts. 30÷5 = 6 repeats. 6×4 = 24. ✓ Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) × ? Starting with 24: each repeat = 4 sts → 3 sts. 24÷4 = 6 repeats. 6×3 = 18. ✓ Rnd 14: (sc, dec) × ? Starting with 18: each repeat = 3 sts → 2 sts. 18÷3 = 6 repeats. 6×2 = 12. ✓ Rnd 15: dec × ? Starting with 12: 6 decreases = 6. ✓ This will give a body approximately: - 30 sts ÷ (4.25 sts/in × 3.14) ≈ 30 ÷ 13.3 ≈ 2.25" radius → ~4.5" diameter Hmm still let me just use the simpler math: at 24 sts it's a good palm-sized toy. Let me keep 24 as max for beginner simplicity and note the finished size is approximately 3 inches. I'll go back to the simpler version with 24 sts max. It will produce a cute ~3 inch toy which is perfect. Actually for Kabuto Quest style, looking at it again - the body is more dome-shaped/wider than tall. Let me make it a flattened sphere by doing more even rounds in the middle: BODY (revised, simpler): BLACK section (underside): - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st [12] - Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around [18] - Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around [24] - Rnd 5: sc around [24] ← these are the underside flat rounds BROWN section (shell): - Rnd 6: sc around [24] ← color change here - Rnd 7: sc around [24] - Rnd 8: sc around [24] - Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) around [18] - Rnd 10: (sc, dec) around [12] ← stuff before this - Rnd 11: dec around [6] - Fasten off Hmm I lost an even round. Let me think about the color change placement more carefully. For Kabuto, the shell (brown) is the TOP and covers most of the Pokemon. The underside (black) is the BOTTOM and is just the flat bottom. So: - Increases happen in black (bottom, flat part) - Then we work the body in brown (the dome) - Decreases at the top in brown Wait, if I'm working from BOTTOM UP: - Bottom/flat part: black with increases (this builds up the flat base) - Middle and top: brown (the shell dome) - Decrease at top to close Color change at start of round 6 (after the increases are done, beginning the dome portion): BLACK (bottom): - Rnd 1: 6 [ch-2 start] - Rnd 2: 12 - Rnd 3: 18 - Rnd 4: 24 - Rnd 5: 24 (one even round to flatten the base) BROWN (shell dome): - Rnd 6: 24 (change to brown) - Rnd 7: 24 - Rnd 8: 24 - Rnd 9: 18 (start decreasing) - Rnd 10: 12 (stuff firmly before this round or during) - Rnd 11: 6 - Fasten off, close Let me verify decreases again: Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) × 6 = 18. Starting from 24: ✓ Rnd 10: (sc, dec) × 6 = 12. Starting from 18: ✓ Rnd 11: dec × 6 = 6. Starting from 12: ✓ Good. I'll note to stuff firmly between rounds 9 and 10, or when there's enough of an opening to stuff through. Actually, for ease of stuffing, I'll note "stuff firmly" after Rnd 9 (when there are still 18 sts and a reasonable opening). Let me also reconsider the leg size. For Pokemon Quest Kabuto, the legs look like small nubs. With worsted weight: - 6 sts, 3 rounds would make a tiny nub about 0.5" wide × 0.5" tall That's good for nub legs! But maybe make them 8 sts to be a little more visible: LEGS (make 4): - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnd 2: inc in each st [12] - Rnds 3-4: sc around [12] - Do not stuff (or stuff lightly), flatten and sew Wait, that might be too big. Let me keep legs simpler: LEGS (make 4) - YELLOW: - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnds 2-4: sc around [6] - Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing - Lightly stuff if desired 6 sts × 4 rounds in worsted = approximately 0.75" wide × 0.75" tall. That's perfect for stubby Pokemon Quest legs. Actually for the flattened nub style legs in PQ, I think even smaller works. Let me do: - Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6] - Rnds 2-3: sc around [6] That's about 0.75" wide × 0.5" tall. Cute and stubby. Final plan: - Body: 11 rounds, max 24 sts, black bottom + brown top dome - Shell spots (make 2): 1 round, 6 sts, black flat circle - Eyes (make 2): 1 round, 4 sts, red flat circle (OR 12mm red safety eyes) - Legs (make 4): 3 rounds, 6 sts, yellow tube Assembly: 1. Attach eyes to the front of the body, in the black section (about rounds 4-5 height from bottom), centered, about 6-8 sts apart 2. Attach shell spots to top of brown shell section 3. Attach 4 legs to underside/lower sides: 2 front, 2 back Let me now think about where the "front" of the Pokemon is. In Pokemon Quest Kabuto, the front shows the eyes (which are red) and they appear sort of on the front-facing edge between the shell and underside. I'll place them at the color change line area or just above it. Looking at Pokemon Quest Kabuto images from memory: - The body is a rounded cube - Eyes are red, on the FRONT of the body - Shell is brown on top/sides - Black underside - Legs are short yellow stubs The eyes might actually be on the shell (brown) portion since in the original Kabuto, the eyes are on top of the shell. But in Pokemon Quest style, they're red dots on the front. I'll say: place eyes at the color change area (boundary between black and brown), centered on front. Now let me also plan the black shell dots. Kabuto has two large oval/eye spots on its shell. In Pokemon Quest, these are simplified to two black dots or circles on the brown shell. For shell spots: I'll make small flat circles (6 sc in ch-2 start) in black and sew them to the top of the brown section, one on each side. Alright, I think this is well-planned. Let me write the full pattern. One more consideration: the ch 2 start. When working 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook, the hole at the start might be slightly larger than a magic ring. I should instruct the maker to leave a yarn tail and pull it tight after the first round to close the hole, similar to how you would close a magic ring. Actually, the ch 2 start: you ch 2, insert hook into the FIRST ch (the one closest to the yarn source, or the 2nd ch from hook), and work all sc into that same chain. When done, you can pull the starting tail to slightly tighten, but it won't close as tightly as a magic ring. Alternatively, I can use: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook = the first ch made (farthest from hook) is where you work into. The "2nd ch from hook" is actually the first chain you made after the slip knot. Actually, standard ch 2 alternative to magic ring: 1. Make a slip knot, ch 2 2. Insert hook into the FIRST ch made (the chain closest to the slip knot, which is the 2nd ch from the hook) 3. Work the required number of sc into that chain This creates a small ring to work from. It's a slightly larger hole than a magic ring but workable for a beginner pattern. I'll instruct this clearly in the pattern. Now, for the color change: to switch from black to brown, I'll work the last stitch of the last black round and on the final "pull through" of that stitch, I'll use the brown yarn. This is standard color change in crochet. I'll explain this briefly. Final verification of all stitch counts: BODY: Rnd 1: 6 sts ✓ (ch 2 start) Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts ✓ (6×2=12) Rnd 3: (sc, inc)×6 = 18 sts ✓ (6 repeats × 3 sts per repeat = 18) Rnd 4: (2sc, inc)×6 = 24 sts ✓ (6 repeats × 4 sts per repeat = 24) Rnd 5: sc×24 = 24 sts ✓ COLOR CHANGE Rnd 6: sc×24 = 24 sts ✓ Rnd 7: sc×24 = 24 sts ✓ Rnd 8: sc×24 = 24 sts ✓ Rnd 9: (2sc, dec)×6 = 18 sts ✓ (6 repeats × (3 sts used, 3 sts made... wait) Let me recheck Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) around from 24 sts. - Pattern: 2 sc (uses 2 sts, makes 2 sts) + dec (uses 2 sts, makes 1 st) = uses 4 sts, makes 3 sts - 24 ÷ 4 = 6 repeats - 6 × 3 = 18 sts ✓ Rnd 10: (sc, dec) around from 18 sts. - Pattern: sc (uses 1 st, makes 1 st) + dec (uses 2 sts, makes 1 st) = uses 3 sts, makes 2 sts - 18 ÷ 3 = 6 repeats - 6 × 2 = 12 sts ✓ Rnd 11: dec around from 12 sts. - 6 decreases = 6 sts ✓ LEGS (make 4): Rnd 1: 6 sts ✓ Rnd 2: 6 sts ✓ Rnd 3: 6 sts ✓ SHELL SPOTS (make 2): Rnd 1: 6 sts ✓ (will be small flat circles) RED EYES (make 2): Rnd 1: 4 sts ✓ (will be tiny flat circles) Everything checks out! Now I'll write the complete pattern. Let me also determine the gauge and yarn amounts: GAUGE: With worsted weight yarn on US E-4 (3.5mm) or F-5 (3.75mm) hook: Approximately 4.5 sc = 1 inch in single crochet FINISHED SIZE: Approximately 3 inches tall × 3 inches wide YARN AMOUNTS (estimates): - Brown: approximately 20-25 yards - Black: approximately 15-20 yards - Yellow: approximately 10 yards - Red: approximately 2 yards (just for eyes) MATERIALS: - Worsted weight yarn in brown, black, yellow, red - US E-4 (3.5mm) or F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook - Fiberfill stuffing - Yarn needle - Stitch marker - Scissors - Optional: 2 red safety eyes (12mm) instead of crocheted eyes Now let me write the actual pattern clearly. One more thought about the ch-2 start instructions. Let me be very precise: "Chain-2 Start (replaces magic ring): Make a slip knot, then chain 2. Insert your hook into the first chain you made (the one closest to your slip knot, which is also the second chain from your hook). Work all required stitches into this chain loop. After completing the round, you can gently pull on the starting yarn tail to tighten the small opening." Actually, I want to double-check: when you ch 2: - Slip knot (on hook) - First chain = that's 1 chain - Second chain = that's 2 chains total, hook is now through the 2nd chain So "2nd ch from hook" = the first chain you made = the one closest to the slip knot ✓ OK let me now write the pattern. I'll also add a brief note about what "inc" and "dec" mean in this context. Actually, let me reconsider the body construction slightly. The black section (underside) is worked flat (from bottom) with increases. Then we switch to brown for the dome. In Pokemon Quest Kabuto: The underside is black - this is the BOTTOM of the toy when it's sitting. So working from bottom up makes perfect sense. The eyes are visible from the FRONT. When the toy sits: - Black base is on the bottom - Brown dome is on top - Legs come out the sides/bottom edges - Eyes are on the front, at approximately the color change line or just below in the black section Wait - where are Kabuto's eyes exactly? In Pokemon Quest, Kabuto has red eyes that are on the SHELL (the front face of the shell). Looking at Pokemon Quest artwork, the eyes appear on the front of the shell (brown part) near the bottom of the shell where it meets the underside. I'll place the eyes at about round 6-7 of the body (just into the brown section), centered on the front face, approximately 5-6 stitches apart. For placement guidance: "Position the eyes on the FRONT of the body, 2 rounds above the color change line, placing them approximately 5-6 stitches apart." OK, I think I have everything. Let me write the pattern now. One last thought - for the shell spots (the two black circular markings on Kabuto's shell), in the original Pokemon, these are actually the eyes of Kabuto (which is weird but that's the design). In Pokemon Quest style, they appear as two dark dots/circles on the brown shell. I'll make them as small flat circles and place them toward the upper portion of the brown shell (about round 8-9 area), one on each side of the top. Let me write it all out now. FULL PATTERN DRAFT: --- # Pokemon Quest Kabuto Amigurumi **Difficulty:** Easy | **Size:** Approx. 3" tall × 3" wide ## Materials - Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in: - Brown (~25 yards) — shell - Black (~20 yards) — underside and shell spots - Yellow (~10 yards) — legs - Red (~3 yards) — eyes (or use 2 red safety eyes, 12mm) - US F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook (or E-4/3.5mm for tighter fabric) - Polyester fiberfill stuffing - Yarn needle - Stitch marker - Scissors ## Gauge 4.5 sc = 1 inch. Gauge is not critical for this project; adjust hook size to create a firm, even fabric with no gaps showing through. ## Abbreviations - ch = chain - sc = single crochet - inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch) - dec = decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook) - st(s) = stitch(es) - rnd(s) = round(s) - [ ] = stitch count at end of round ## Special Technique: Chain-2 Start This pattern uses a chain-2 start in place of a magic ring or slip stitch ring: 1. Make a slip knot and chain 2. 2. Insert your hook into the first chain made (the one closest to the slip knot — this is the 2nd chain from your hook). 3. Work all required stitches into that single chain. 4. After completing the first round, gently pull the yarn starting tail to snug the small opening closed. ## Notes - Work in continuous spiral rounds. Do NOT join or turn at end of rounds unless instructed. - Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work. - Stuff pieces firmly as you go to avoid lumps. - When changing colors, on the LAST stitch of the round before the color change, work until 2 loops remain on hook, then use the NEW color yarn to pull through and complete the stitch. --- ## BODY *(Worked from the bottom up. Begin with BLACK yarn.)* **Rnd 1 (Black):** Chain-2 start, 6 sc in first ch. [6] > *Pull yarn tail snugly after working these 6 stitches to close the starting hole.* **Rnd 2 (Black):** Inc in each st around. [12] > *(2 sc in each of 6 stitches = 12 sts)* **Rnd 3 (Black):** (Sc, inc) around. [18] > *(Repeat: 1 sc, then 1 inc) × 6 times = 18 sts)* **Rnd 4 (Black):** (2 sc, inc) around. [24] > *(Repeat: 2 sc, then 1 inc) × 6 times = 24 sts)* **Rnd 5 (Black):** Sc in each st around. [24] > *This is the flat underside of Kabuto's body.* **Color change:** At the end of Rnd 5, when only 2 loops remain on your hook from the last stitch, switch to BROWN yarn to complete the stitch. Cut black yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail to weave in. **Rnd 6 (Brown):** Sc in each st around. [24] **Rnd 7 (Brown):** Sc in each st around. [24] **Rnd 8 (Brown):** Sc in each st around. [24] > *Rounds 6–8 form the sides of Kabuto's domed brown shell.* **Rnd 9 (Brown):** (2 sc, dec) around. [18] > *(Repeat: 2 sc, then 1 dec) × 6 times = 18 sts)* > *Begin stuffing the body firmly now. Add more stuffing through the opening as needed.* **Rnd 10 (Brown):** (Sc, dec) around. [12] > *(Repeat: 1 sc, then 1 dec) × 6 times = 12 sts)* > *Continue stuffing firmly.* **Rnd 11 (Brown):** Dec around. [6] > *(Work 6 decreases = 6 sts)* Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave through the 6 remaining stitches, pulling tight to close the hole. Weave in end securely. --- ## SHELL SPOTS — Make 2 *(In BLACK yarn)* **Rnd 1:** Chain-2 start, 6 sc in first ch. [6] Pull yarn tail to snug the starting hole closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. > *These create the two round black markings on Kabuto's shell.* --- ## EYES — Make 2 *(Choose Option A or Option B)* **Option A — Crocheted Eyes (in RED yarn):** **Rnd 1:** Chain-2 start, 4 sc in first ch. [4] Pull yarn tail to snug the starting hole closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. **Option B — Safety Eyes:** Use 2 red safety eyes (12mm). Attach before closing the body in Step 11. --- ## LEGS — Make 4 *(In YELLOW yarn)* **Rnd 1:** Chain-2 start, 6 sc in first ch. [6] **Rnd 2:** Sc in each st around. [6] **Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff legs (or stuff very lightly for a slightly firmer look). --- ## ASSEMBLY Lay out all pieces before sewing to plan placement. **Step 1 — Attach Eyes:** Position the 2 red crocheted eye circles (or insert safety eyes, if not already inserted) on the FRONT of the body, in the black section, approximately 1 round below the color change line (around Rnd 4–5), spaced about 5–6 stitches apart at center front. Using the long yarn tails, sew each eye in place with a yarn needle, pulling tight to indent slightly into the body for a more "button" effect. Weave in ends. *If using safety eyes, position them at this same location before you closed the body in Rnd 11.* **Step 2 — Attach Shell Spots:** Position the 2 black shell spot circles on the TOP of the brown shell section, one on the left and one on the right, spaced approximately 5–6 stitches apart (around Rnds 7–8 area, upper portion of the shell). Sew each spot flat against the shell using the long yarn tail. Weave in ends. **Step 3 — Attach Legs:** Flatten each leg piece slightly (no need to stuff). Sew the 4 yellow legs to the SIDES of the body at the lower edge, where the black section meets the brown section (around the color change line): - 2 legs on the FRONT, one on each side - 2 legs on the BACK, one on each side Sew each leg securely using a yarn needle, stitching around the opening of the leg for stability. Weave in all ends. --- ## FINISHING Weave in any remaining yarn tails. Gently squeeze and shape the body into a slightly rounded dome shape (flatter on the black bottom, domed on the brown top). Your Pokemon Quest Kabuto is complete! --- Hmm, let me review the eye placement. I said "in the black section, approximately 1 round below the color change line." Actually, thinking about Pokemon Quest Kabuto more carefully - the eyes appear on the SHELL (the brown part), sort of near the FRONT edge of the shell dome. They're visible from the front and positioned on the brown area. Let me adjust: "Position the 2 red eyes on the FRONT of the body, just ABOVE the color change line (around Rnd 6–7 of the body, in the brown section), spaced about 5–6 stitches apart." This places the eyes on the brown shell, near the front bottom edge of the shell, which is more accurate for Kabuto. Actually, I keep going back and forth. Let me just look at this practically: Kabuto's face in Pokemon Quest shows red eyes. In the original design, Kabuto has eyes on TOP of its shell (the two black spots are actually eye hollows). But the actual EYES (the ones you see) are actually... red markings visible from the front. For Pokemon Quest specifically, Kabuto has: - The blocky body covered in brown - Two dark oval eye-spots on the top of the shell - Red coloring on the front that represents the actual eyes/face I'll place: - Red eyes: on the front of the body, just above the color change line (in the brown section, 1 row above color change) - Black shell spots: on the top/upper portion of the brown shell This seems right. Let me finalize the placement in the pattern. Also, I want to double-check - should the eyes be in the black OR brown section? Let me go with: lower brown section, right above the color change, on the front face. This makes them visible from the front and looks like Kabuto's face peeking out from under the shell edge. OK, let me also reconsider if 3 even rounds in the brown section is enough. With 24 sts, 3 even rounds gives a height of about 3×(1/4.5") ≈ 0.67 inches for the brown section. Combined with the black section which has the 4 increase rounds + 1 even round, the total height would be roughly 5 rounds × 0.22" + black section + brown section. Let me just think about this more practically. The toy will be roughly 3 inches in circumference-diameter terms and about 2.5-3 inches tall. That should look fine for Pokemon Quest Kabuto. Actually for the Pokemon Quest "blocky" look, I want the toy to look somewhat cubic/boxy. Let me add one more even round to the brown section: REVISED: Rnd 6: sc [24] BROWN Rnd 7: sc [24] BROWN Rnd 8: sc [24] BROWN Rnd 9: sc [24] BROWN ← added Rnd 10: (2sc, dec) around [18] Rnd 11: (sc, dec) around [12] Rnd 12: dec around [6] This adds one more round to give a bit more height and body. Let me renumber and verify: BODY (final): Rnd 1 (Black): 6 [ch-2 start] Rnd 2 (Black): 12 Rnd 3 (Black): 18 Rnd 4 (Black): 24 Rnd 5 (Black): 24 [even] Color change at end of Rnd 5 Rnd 6 (Brown): 24 [even] Rnd 7 (Brown): 24 [even] Rnd 8 (Brown): 24 [even] Rnd 9 (Brown): 24 [even] Rnd 10 (Brown): 18 [(2sc, dec)×6] Rnd 11 (Brown): 12 [(sc, dec)×6] Rnd 12 (Brown): 6 [dec×6] That's 12 rounds total. Looks good. Let me do final recount: Rnd 10: (2sc, dec) from 24: 24÷4=6 repeats, 6×3=18 ✓ Rnd 11: (sc, dec) from 18: 18÷3=6 repeats, 6×2=12 ✓ Rnd 12: dec from 12: 6 decreases =6 ✓ Perfect. Now I'll write the final clean pattern. One more thing - for the legs placement. Pokemon Quest Kabuto has legs on the BOTTOM/SIDES, sticking outward. 4 legs - probably 2 on front-left, front-right, back-left, back-right. In the assembled toy they'd be sewn to the lower edge of the black section, pointing outward/downward. Actually wait - I said "where black meets brown" - that's the TOP of the black section/bottom of the brown section. But the black section IS the underside. So the legs should come from the edge of the black section where it transitions to the brown. That's actually the equator of the toy (widest part), which makes sense for legs sticking out to the sides. Let me finalize: attach legs at the widest point (the color change line area), pointing outward and slightly downward, at 4 positions around the body (front-left, front-right, back-left, back-right). OK I think I'm overthinking this. Let me just write the final clean pattern now! Here's my final structure: 1. Materials list 2. Gauge 3. Finished Size 4. Abbreviations 5. Special Technique: Chain-2 Start 6. Notes 7. Body (with color change) 8. Shell Spots (make 2) 9. Eyes (make 2) 10. Legs (make 4) 11. Assembly 12. Finishing I'm satisfied with the design. Let me write it out clearly and professionally.

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: - ✅ Materials list (yarn colors, hook, notions) - ✅ Gauge statement - ✅ Finished size - ✅ Abbreviations glossary - ✅ Special technique: Chain-2 Start (replaces magic ring AND slip stitch ring) - ✅ General notes for spiral rounds - ✅ All components: Body, Shell Spots, Eyes, Legs - ✅ Full assembly instructions - ✅ All user color requests honored: Yellow legs ✓, Brown shell ✓, Black dots ✓, Black underside ✓, Red eyes ✓ 2. **Consistency — Stitch Count Verification**: BODY: - Rnd 1: 6 sts (chain-2 start) ✅ - Rnd 2: 6 inc × 2 = 12 sts ✅ - Rnd 3: (sc, inc) × 6 → 6 repeats × 3 sts = 18 sts ✅ - Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 → 6 repeats × 4 sts = 24 sts ✅ - Rnd 5: sc × 24 = 24 sts ✅ [Color change at end] - Rnds 6–9: sc × 24 = 24 sts each ✅ - Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) × 6 → uses 4 sts, makes 3 sts; 24 ÷ 4 = 6 repeats; 6 × 3 = 18 sts ✅ - Rnd 11: (sc, dec) × 6 → uses 3 sts, makes 2 sts; 18 ÷ 3 = 6 repeats; 6 × 2 = 12 sts ✅ - Rnd 12: dec × 6 → 12 ÷ 2 = 6 decreases = 6 sts ✅ LEGS (make 4): 6 → 6 → 6 ✅ (3 rounds, stable 6-st cylinder) SHELL SPOTS (make 2): 6 sts single round flat circle ✅ CROCHETED EYES (make 2): 4 sts single round flat circle ✅ 3. **Constraints**: - ✅ NO magic ring used anywhere — all pieces use chain-2 start - ✅ NO slip stitch ring used — spiral construction throughout - ✅ Worsted weight yarn specified - ✅ Easy/beginner difficulty maintained (no complex stitches) - ✅ All four colors: brown, black, yellow, red addressed - ✅ Pokemon Quest Kabuto characteristics: boxy dome shape, black underside, brown shell, shell spots, red eyes, yellow legs - ✅ US terminology and abbreviations used throughout - ✅ Imperial measurements primary with metric optional 4. **Safety / Error Check**: - ✅ Color change instruction is clear and placed correctly at end of Rnd 5 - ✅ Stuffing reminder placed at Rnd 10 (while opening is still workable) - ✅ Invisible decrease (invdec) method defined — standard for clean amigurumi - ✅ Safety eye alternative provided as Option B for eyes - ✅ Assembly order logical: eyes → shell spots → legs - ✅ Yarn amounts estimated and reasonable for worsted weight - ✅ No row count errors; all math validated One flag: Chain-2 start produces a slightly larger initial hole than a magic ring. ✅ Addressed — pattern instructs maker to pull yarn tail snug to close it.