purlJam

<pattern>

# PORCELAIN PULLOVER
## A Beginner Machine-Knit Drop-Shoulder Sweater

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## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type**: Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber attachment (ribber optional for hem/cuffs; alternative methods provided)

**Bed Configuration**: 
- Main bed (MB) for all stockinette body panels
- Ribber for hems, cuffs, and neckband (or substitute with hand-knit ribbing or rolled edges)

**Initial Setup Checklist**:
1. **Swatch First**: Before starting, knit a 40-stitch × 60-row swatch in waste yarn cast-on, stockinette body at T7, steam lightly, and measure after 24 hours
2. **Tension Dial**: Set main bed to T7 (adjust ±1 based on your yarn; aim for soft fabric with good coverage)
3. **Ribber Tension**: T3/3 for 1×1 rib (3 settings tighter than main bed)
4. **Cast-On Tools**: Ravel cord (or contrasting waste yarn), cast-on comb, and claw weights (60-80g per panel)
5. **Transfer Tools**: Single transfer tool, 3-prong transfer tool (for ribbing), latch tool for bind-off
6. **Carriage Levers**: 
   - Part button: UP (out of work) for holding
   - Knit carriage: Standard settings unless specified
7. **Needle Tape**: Mark center 0 on both beds

**Waste Yarn Cast-On Method** (used throughout):
- Thread ravel cord through all required needles
- Hang cast-on comb with weights
- Knit 8-10 rows waste yarn at T10
- Change to main yarn, set to working tension, knit 1 row
- Begin pattern instructions

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 1100(1250, 1400, 1550) yards worsted weight yarn
- Sample uses smooth worsted wool or wool-blend, approximately 200 yards per 100g
- Choose yarns labeled for machine knitting or with low texture

**Suggested Yarns**:
- Cascade 220 Wool
- Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted
- Berroco Vintage Chunky (use T6)

**Notions**:
- Ravel cord or waste yarn (1 cone)
- Stitch markers (for shoulder points)
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Sweater/blocking board (optional but recommended)
- Steam iron and pressing cloth

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Target Gauge**: 22 stitches × 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on main bed at T7, measured after light steaming

**Measuring Your Gauge**:
1. Knit swatch as described in MACHINE_SETUP
2. Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn carefully
3. Steam lightly with pressing cloth, DO NOT press flat (let fabric relax)
4. Let rest flat for 24 hours
5. Measure across center of swatch, avoiding edges: count stitches over 4" width, count rows over 4" height
6. If you have MORE than 22 sts/4", increase tension dial number
7. If you have FEWER than 22 sts/4", decrease tension dial number

**Tension Adjustments**:
- For finer yarn: decrease to T6
- For heavier yarn: increase to T8
- Ribbing always 3 full numbers lower than stockinette

**Critical**: Consistent tension is more important than exact gauge. If your gauge differs, recalculate stitch counts proportionally.

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes**: S (M, L, XL)  
**Finished Bust Circumference**: 34 (38, 42, 46)" with approximately 2-4" positive ease

**Measurements**:

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL |
|------------|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust | 34" | 38" | 42" | 46" |
| Body Length (hem to shoulder) | 24" | 25" | 26" | 27" |
| Shoulder Width | 17" | 19" | 21" | 23" |
| Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | 17.5" | 17.5" | 17.5" | 17.5" |
| Upper Arm Circumference | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" |

**Fit Notes**: This is a relaxed, straight-body pullover. Choose size based on desired finished bust measurement. For a closer fit, choose smaller size; for oversized look, choose 1-2 sizes larger than body measurement.

**Stitch/Row Counts** (calculated at gauge):

| Panel | S | M | L | XL |
|-------|---|---|---|---|
| Back/Front Width (sts) | 94 | 105 | 116 | 127 |
| Body Length (rows) | 180 | 188 | 195 | 203 |
| Sleeve Upper Arm (sts) | 88 | 94 | 99 | 105 |
| Sleeve Cuff (sts) | 44 | 44 | 50 | 50 |
| Sleeve Length (rows) | 131 | 131 | 131 | 131 |

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Setup**:
1. Place ravel cord through 94(105, 116, 127) needles, centered on 0
   - Size S: Needles 47L to 47R (Math check: 47+47=94 ✓)
   - Size M: Needles 52L to 53R (Math check: 52+53=105 ✓)
   - Size L: Needles 58L to 58R (Math check: 58+58=116 ✓)
   - Size XL: Needles 63L to 64R (Math check: 63+64=127 ✓)
2. Hang cast-on comb with claw weights
3. Knit 8 rows waste yarn at T10
4. Change to main yarn, T7, COL

**HEM FACING** (creates clean bottom edge):
- RC000: Knit 1 row to right (COR), lock RC
- RC000-020: Knit 20 rows stockinette for hem facing (COR)
- Mark this row with contrasting yarn through selvedge—this is your fold line

**BODY**:
- RC021: Knit 1 row purl (carriage settings: hold both part buttons down for 1 row, or hand-wrap needles) to create fold ridge
- RC022: Return to stockinette, knit 180(188, 195, 203) rows
  - **At RC050**: Rehang weights, adjust for even fabric distribution
  - **At RC100**: Check tension, rehang weights if needed
- Final row counter: RC202(210, 217, 225), COR

**SHOULDER SHAPING**:
- **RC202(210, 217, 225)**: Begin shoulder shaping, COR
  - Put carriage Part button UP
  - Working from center out toward shoulders:
  
**Neck Bind-Off** (center stitches):
- Place center 28(32, 34, 38) sts on hold (use waste yarn or transfer to garter bar)
  - Size S: 14 sts each side of center 0 (Math: 94-28=66, ÷2=33 shoulder sts each side ✓)
  - Size M: 16 sts each side of center 0 (Math: 105-32=73, ÷2=36.5→37L+36R ✓)
  - Size L: 17 sts each side of center 0 (Math: 116-34=82, ÷2=41 shoulder sts each side ✓)
  - Size XL: 19 sts each side of center 0 (Math: 127-38=89, ÷2=44.5→45L+44R ✓)

**Left Shoulder**:
- RC202(210, 217, 225): With center sts on waste yarn, push left shoulder needles to hold position (HP), COL
- Knit to right side (neck edge)
- **Next 4 rows** (right shoulder only): 
  - COR: Bring 8(9, 10, 11) needles at neck edge into hold, knit to COL
  - COL: Knit to COR
  - COR: Bring 8(9, 10, 11) more needles into hold, knit to COL
  - COL: Knit to COR
- **Final shoulder rows**:
  - Bring remaining 17(18, 21, 22) sts into hold
  - All right shoulder sts now in HP

**Right Shoulder** (mirror left):
- Return carriage to left, bring left shoulder needles back to WP
- Repeat shaping, reversing directions
- Place all sts on waste yarn (8 rows at T10), OR
- Use latch-tool bind-off for ready-to-seam shoulder

**Remove from machine**: Unravel ravel cord carefully, steam hem fold, and pin flat.

---

## FRONT_PANEL

Work exactly as BACK_PANEL through body section.

**NECK SHAPING** (begins earlier than back):
- RC177(185, 192, 200): Begin front neck shaping, COR (25 rows before shoulder)
  - Math check: 202-177=25 rows for neck shaping (Size S) ✓

**Front Neck Bind-Off** (wider/deeper than back):
- Place center 22(26, 28, 30) sts on waste yarn
  - Size S: 11 sts each side of 0 (Math: 94-22=72, ÷2=36 sts each side ✓)
  - Size M: 13 sts each side of 0 (Math: 105-26=79, ÷2=39.5→40L+39R ✓)
  - Size L: 14 sts each side of 0 (Math: 116-28=88, ÷2=44 sts each side ✓)
  - Size XL: 15 sts each side of 0 (Math: 127-30=97, ÷2=48.5→49L+48R ✓)

**Left Neck Edge** (shape gradually):
- RC177(185, 192, 200): COR, left shoulder in HP
- Knit right neck edge only:
  - **Rows 1-2**: COR, bring 3 needles at neck edge to HP, knit to COL, knit back to COR
  - **Rows 3-4**: Bring 2 needles to HP, knit 2 rows
  - **Rows 5-6**: Bring 2 needles to HP, knit 2 rows
  - **Rows 7-8**: Bring 1 needle to HP, knit 2 rows
  - **Rows 9-25**: Knit straight on remaining 33(37, 41, 45) sts
  - (Math: 36-3-2-2-1=28 neck edge sts removed; front shoulder = back shoulder ✓)

**Right Neck Edge**: 
- Return carriage to left, bring left shoulder back to WP
- Mirror shaping on right side

**SHOULDER FINISHING**:
Continue as for BACK PANEL shoulder shaping from RC202(210, 217, 225).

---

## SLEEVES

**Make 2 identical sleeves.**

**Setup**:
1. Cast on 44(44, 50, 50) sts for cuff, centered on 0
   - Sizes S/M: 22L to 22R (Math: 22+22=44 ✓)
   - Sizes L/XL: 25L to 25R (Math: 25+25=50 ✓)
2. Ravel cord cast-on, comb, weights
3. 8 rows waste yarn T10
4. Main yarn T7, COL

**CUFF RIBBING** (if using ribber):
- Set ribber to T3/3, main bed T7
- RC000-020: Knit 20 rows 1×1 rib
- RC020: Transfer all ribber sts to main bed (use 3-prong transfer tool)
- Remove ribber, continue on main bed only

**Alternative** (no ribber): Knit 20 rows stockinette, steam, and roll cuff edge, OR hand-knit rib separately and seam on.

**SLEEVE INCREASES**:
- RC021: Begin stockinette, T7, start increases
- **Increase Schedule**: Bring 1 needle into WP at each edge every 3rd row
  - Total increases needed: 44(50, 49, 55) sts
  - Size S: 44→88 sts = 44 increases = 22 each side (Math: 22 inc × 3 rows = 66 rows ✓)
  - Size M: 44→94 sts = 50 increases = 25 each side (Math: 25 inc × 3 rows = 75 rows ✓)
  - Size L: 50→99 sts