purlJam

# Raglan Pullover Sweater (Top-Down Machine Knit)
**Difficulty**: Beginner | **Machine**: Bulky (9mm) or Mid-gauge (6.5mm)
**Yarn**: Worsted Weight (approx. 600-900g depending on size)

## I. Specifications & Gauge
*   **Gauge**: 4 sts / 6 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm) in Stockinette Stitch.
*   **Main Tension (MT)**: Suggested 7–9 (Bulky) or 9–10 (Mid-gauge). Perform a swatch to verify.
*   **Ribbing Tension (RT)**: MT minus 2 full numbers.
*   **Sizes (Finished Chest)**: 
    *   **S**: 36" (91.5 cm)
    *   **M**: 40" (101.5 cm)
    *   **L**: 44" (112 cm)
    *   **XL**: 48" (122 cm)
    *   **2XL**: 52" (132 cm)

## II. Machine Setup
*   **Bed**: Main Bed (and Ribber if available for hems; otherwise use Mock Rib/Latched Rib).
*   **Tools**: 1-prong, 2-prong, and 3-prong transfer tools, weights, cast-on comb, ravel cord.
*   **Terminology**: 
    *   **RC**: Row Counter
    *   **COL/COR**: Carriage on Left / Carriage on Right
    *   **MT**: Main Tension
    *   **RT**: Ribbing Tension
    *   **FFINC**: Fully Fashioned Increase (Move 3 edge stitches out by one needle, pick up the heel of the 4th stitch to fill the empty needle).

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## III. The Back
1.  **Cast On**: Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on for the back neck:
    *   **S**: 24 sts | **M**: 26 sts | **L**: 28 sts | **XL**: 30 sts | **2XL**: 32 sts.
2.  Set **RC 000**, Tension to **MT**. Knit 2 rows. **COR**.
3.  **Raglan Increases**: 
    *   Increase 1 stitch at *both* ends (FFINC) every 2nd row:
    *   **S**: Continue until **RC 48** (72 sts total).
    *   **M**: Continue until **RC 54** (80 sts total).
    *   **L**: Continue until **RC 60** (88 sts total).
    *   **XL**: Continue until **RC 66** (96 sts total).
    *   **2XL**: Continue until **RC 72** (104 sts total).
4.  **Straight Body**: Knit straight until **RC 130 (S)**, **135 (M)**, **140 (L)**, **145 (XL)**, **150 (2XL)**.
5.  **Hem Ribbing**: 
    *   Change to **RT**. 
    *   Knit 1x1 rib for 2" (approx. 12 rows). 
    *   Bind off loosely with latch tool.

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## IV. The Front
1.  **Cast On**: Same as Back.
2.  **Short Row Neck Shaping (Optional for Beginner)**: For a simpler version, knit same as back for the first 10 rows. 
3.  **Raglan Increases**: Follow the same increase schedule as the Back.
4.  **Note**: Ensure your total row count for the raglan section matches the Back exactly so the seams align.
5.  **Straight Body & Hem**: Follow Back instructions exactly from the underarm down.

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## V. Sleeves (Knit 2)
1.  **Cast On**: Top of shoulder.
    *   **S**: 10 sts | **M**: 10 sts | **L**: 12 sts | **XL**: 12 sts | **2XL**: 14 sts.
2.  Set **RC 000**, Tension **MT**. 
3.  **Raglan Increases**: 
    *   Increase 1 stitch at *both* ends every 2nd row until you reach the underarm stitch count:
    *   **S**: RC 48 (58 sts)
    *   **M**: RC 54 (64 sts)
    *   **L**: RC 60 (72 sts)
    *   **XL**: RC 66 (78 sts)
    *   **2XL**: RC 72 (86 sts)
4.  **Sleeve Tapering**: 
    *   Decrease 1 stitch at both ends every 6th row (approx.) to reach cuff width.
    *   Target cuff stitches: **S**: 36 | **M**: 38 | **L**: 40 | **XL**: 42 | **2XL**: 44.
    *   Knit until sleeve length from underarm is 18" (or desired length).
5.  **Cuff Ribbing**: 
    *   Change to **RT**. Knit 1x1 rib for 2.5". 
    *   Bind off loosely.

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## VI. Neckband
1.  Sew one raglan seam (Back to Sleeve).
2.  With right side facing you, pick up stitches along the neckline (Back, Sleeve, Front, Sleeve).
3.  **Knit Ribbing**: 
    *   Tension **RT**. Knit 1x1 rib for 1" (approx. 6-8 rows).
    *   Knit 1 row at **MT + 2** (Tension 10) for a loose turning row.
    *   Knit 1" more in **RT**.
4.  Bind off and fold inward; sew down to the inside for a professional "double" neckband.

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## VII. Finishing
1.  **Seaming**: Use Mattress Stitch. 
    *   Join the remaining 3 raglan seams.
    *   Join side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous go from the hem to the cuff.
2.  **Math Validation (Size L Example)**: 
    *   Back Neck (28 sts) + 2 Sleeves (2x12 sts) + Front Neck (28 sts) = 80 sts at neckline.
    *   Max body width (88 sts) / 4 sts per inch = 22" (44" total circumference). Correct for Large.
3.  **Blocking**: Remove from machine, steam lightly (do not kill the acrylic if using synthetic yarn) to settle the stitches and flatten the raglan seams.

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**Technical Editor Notes**: This pattern assumes the use of "Fully Fashioned" increases. By moving the stitches inward or outward and filling the gap from the row below, you ensure no holes are left at the raglan line, creating the professional look typical of high-end knitwear.