purlJam

<pattern>

# RAISED SCALLOP & SHELL STITCH SAMPLE SET
## Advanced Machine Knitting Texture Swatches

**Description**: Three variations of raised shell and scallop stitch patterns for exploring texture techniques on the machine knitting. These samples demonstrate tuck and slip stitch manipulation to create dimensional fabric effects. Perfect for learning advanced carriage settings and creating textured garment panels.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 10-gauge Visilone (worsted weight)
- Approximately 100g (220 yds/200m) for all three samples
- Sample shown in solid color to best display texture

**Machine Requirements**:
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Single bed only (no ribber required)
- Suitable for punchcard or electronic machines
- Standard sinker plate

**Notions & Tools**:
- Waste yarn (smooth, contrasting color)
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights (approximately 200g total)
- Transfer tool (for finishing)
- Latch tool (for bind-off)
- Tapestry needle for weaving ends

---

## TENSION & GAUGE

**Tension Dial Setting**: T6-T7 (adjust based on your machine)
- Test at T6 first; if fabric is too tight or stitches difficult to knit, move to T7
- Tuck stitches will be tighter than plain knit rows

**Expected Gauge** (after light steaming):
- Plain stockinette at T6-T7: 18-20 sts and 24-26 rows = 10cm × 10cm (4" × 4")
- Shell pattern will draw in width approximately 10-15%
- Measure gauge on blocked swatch

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

**General Terms**:
- RC = Row Counter
- COL = Carriage on Left
- COR = Carriage on Right
- T = Tension dial setting
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WY = Waste Yarn
- MY = Main Yarn

**Carriage Settings**:
- N = Normal (plain knit, all needles knit)
- Tuck = Tuck stitch setting (needles in pattern position will tuck)
- Slip = Slip stitch setting (needles in pattern position will slip)
- Part = Partial (for needles in hold position)

**Needle Positions**:
- WP = Working Position
- HP = Hold Position
- NWP = Non-Working Position

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Waste Yarn Cast-On**: All samples use ravel cord and waste yarn cast-on for easy removal and clean edges.

2. **Pattern Repeats**: 
   - Variation 1 (Basic Shell): 6-st repeat, 8-row repeat
   - Variation 2 (Alternating Shell): 6-st repeat, 12-row repeat
   - Variation 3 (Raised Scallop): 8-st repeat, 8-row repeat

3. **Weight Management**: Shell and scallop patterns create tuck stitches that can be heavy. Keep weights evenly distributed and add additional small weights if needed after 20-30 rows.

4. **Carriage Setting Changes**: Pay careful attention to carriage lever changes. Always change settings with carriage OFF the needle bed to avoid jamming.

5. **Programming for Electronic Machines**: 
   - Card readers: Use cards provided or punch your own following charts
   - Electronic: Program using pattern grid, black squares = tuck/slip positions

6. **Tension Adjustment**: If stitches are dropping or fabric is too loose, decrease tension by 1 number. If carriage is difficult to move or stitches won't knit, increase tension by 1 number.

7. **Stitch Pattern Behavior**: The raised texture forms on the side FACING YOU (purl side in stockinette terms). For use in garments, this becomes the right side.

---

## VARIATION 1: BASIC SHELL STITCH

This creates a classic vertical shell pattern using tuck stitches.

### Setup

**Main Bed Setup**:
1. Thread carriage with MY (10-gauge Visilone) at T6-T7.
2. Set carriage to N (normal/plain knit).
3. Set RC to 000.

**Cast-On**:
1. Using WY and ravel cord method, cast on 48 sts (needles 24L to 24R, or your preferred center 48 needles).
2. Hang cast-on comb with weights (approximately 150-200g).
3. With carriage at COR, set tension to T7, carriage to N.
4. RC 000: Knit 6 rows WY. COR.

**Change to Main Yarn**:
5. RC 006: Thread carriage with MY. Knit 2 rows plain at T6-T7 for foundation. RC 008, COR.

### Pattern Instructions - Basic Shell (6-st repeat, 8-row repeat)

**Pattern Sequence**:
- **Rows 1-2**: Plain knit (carriage set to N)
- **Rows 3-6**: Tuck stitch (carriage set to Tuck)
- **Rows 7-8**: Plain knit (carriage set to N)

**For Punchcard Machines**: 
Punch card with 6-st repeat:
```
Row 8: ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 7: ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 6: ● ○ ● ○ ● ○  (○ = punch/tuck position)
Row 5: ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●
Row 4: ● ○ ● ○ ● ○
Row 3: ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●
Row 2: ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 1: ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
```
(Pattern card: needles 1-6 repeat across bed)

**Detailed Row-by-Row Instructions**:

**Foundation Complete**: RC 008, COR, carriage set to N, T6-T7.

**REPEAT 1**:
- RC 008: Knit 1 row plain (N setting). COL. RC 009.
- RC 009: Knit 1 row plain (N setting). COR. RC 010.
- **Change carriage to TUCK setting** (do this with carriage OFF bed).
- Set needle selection pattern if using punchcard/electronic (start pattern row 1).
- RC 010: Knit 1 row, needles select for row 3 of pattern. COL. RC 011.
- RC 011: Knit 1 row TUCK. COR. RC 012.
- RC 012: Knit 1 row TUCK. COL. RC 013.
- RC 013: Knit 1 row TUCK. COR. RC 014.
- **Change carriage to N (normal) setting**.
- RC 014: Knit 1 row plain. COL. RC 015.
- RC 015: Knit 1 row plain. COR. RC 016.

**REPEAT 2-7**: Repeat RC 008-015 sequence 6 more times.
- After 7 complete repeats: RC 064, COR.

**Final Rows**:
- RC 064: Knit 2 rows plain (N setting). RC 066, COR.

**Total Pattern Rows**: 58 rows MY (RC 066 - RC 008 = 58 rows).

### Finishing Variation 1

1. RC 066, COR: Knit 6 rows WY at T7. RC 072.
2. Release from machine using ravel cord method.
3. Steam lightly on wrong side (smooth side) with damp cloth.
4. Allow to dry flat.
5. Remove waste yarn, secure edges with tapestry needle if desired.

---

## VARIATION 2: ALTERNATING SHELL STITCH

This creates offset shells for a more complex texture. Uses a 12-row repeat.

### Setup

Follow same cast-on procedure as Variation 1:
- 48 sts on needles
- WY cast-on with ravel cord
- 2 rows MY foundation at T6-T7
- RC 000 at start of WY, reset to 000 when beginning pattern

**Starting Position**: RC 000, COR, carriage set to N.

### Pattern Instructions - Alternating Shell (6-st repeat, 12-row repeat)

**Pattern Sequence**:
- **Rows 1-2**: Plain knit (N)
- **Rows 3-6**: Tuck stitch on needles 1, 3, 5 of repeat
- **Rows 7-8**: Plain knit (N)
- **Rows 9-12**: Tuck stitch on needles 2, 4, 6 of repeat

**For Punchcard Machines**: 
Punch card with 6-st repeat:
```
Row 12: ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●  (○ = punch/tuck position)
Row 11: ● ○ ● ○ ● ○
Row 10: ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●
Row 9:  ● ○ ● ○ ● ○
Row 8:  ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 7:  ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 6:  ● ○ ● ○ ● ○
Row 5:  ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●
Row 4:  ● ○ ● ○ ● ○
Row 3:  ○ ● ○ ● ○ ●
Row 2:  ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 1:  ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
```

**Detailed Row-by-Row Instructions**:

**Starting Position**: RC 000, COR, carriage set to N, T6-T7.

**REPEAT 1**:
- RC 000-001: Knit 2 rows plain (N setting). RC 002, COR.
- **Change carriage to TUCK setting**.
- RC 002-005: Knit 4 rows TUCK (pattern A: needles 1,3,5 of repeat). RC 006, COR.
- **Change carriage to N setting**.
- RC 006-007: Knit 2 rows plain. RC 008, COR.
- **Change carriage to TUCK setting**.
- RC 008-011: Knit 4 rows TUCK (pattern B: needles 2,4,6 of repeat). RC 012, COR.
- **Change carriage to N setting**.

**REPEAT 2-5**: Repeat RC 000-011 sequence 4 more times.
- After 5 complete repeats: RC 060, COR.

**Final Rows**:
- RC 060: Knit 2 rows plain (N setting). RC 062, COR.

**Total Pattern Rows**: 62 rows MY.

### Finishing Variation 2

Same as Variation 1: WY rows, release, steam, remove waste yarn.

---

## VARIATION 3: RAISED SCALLOP STITCH

Creates a more pronounced scalloped edge effect using combined tuck and plain rows. 8-st repeat.

### Setup

Follow same cast-on procedure:
- 48 sts on needles (48 ÷ 8 = 6 complete repeats)
- WY cast-on with ravel cord
- 2 rows MY foundation at T6-T7
- RC 000 at start of pattern

**Starting Position**: RC 000, COR, carriage set to N.

### Pattern Instructions - Raised Scallop (8-st repeat, 8-row repeat)

**Pattern Sequence**:
- **Rows 1-2**: Plain knit (N)
- **Row 3**: Tuck on pattern needles (every other needle within scallop groups)
- **Rows 4-6**: Tuck continues, creates raised loops
- **Row 7**: Plain knit transition
- **Row 8**: Plain knit (N)

**For Punchcard Machines**: 
Punch card with 8-st repeat:
```
Row 8: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 7: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 6: ○ ● ● ○ ○ ● ● ○  (○ = punch/tuck position)
Row 5: ○ ● ● ○ ○ ● ● ○
Row 4: ○ ● ● ○ ○ ● ● ○
Row 3: ○ ● ● ○ ○ ● ● ○
Row 2: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
Row 1: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●  (all knit = blank)
```

**Detailed Row-by-Row Instructions**:

**Starting Position**: RC 000, COR, carriage set to N, T6-T7.

**REPEAT 1**:
- RC 000-001: Knit 2 rows plain (N setting). RC 002, COR.
- **Change carriage to TUCK setting**.
- Set pattern: Within each 8-st repeat, needles 1, 5, 6 tuck; needles 2, 3, 4, 7, 8 knit.
- RC 002-005: Knit