purlJam

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# 🦎 REALISTIC AMIGURUMI AXOLOTL
### Advanced Crochet Pattern | Continuous Spiral Rounds | US Terminology

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
- **Length** (nose tip to tail end): approximately 11–12 inches (28–30 cm)
- **Height** (standing): approximately 3.5–4 inches (9–10 cm)
- **Head width** at widest point: approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm)

*Finished size will vary based on individual gauge.*

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- **Color A (Body/Main):** Worsted weight (size 4), approx. 150 yards — pale pink, salmon, or light lavender (recommended: Lion Brand Vanna's Choice "Pink" or Paintbox Simply DK in Blush Pink)
- **Color B (Belly/Mouth Interior):** Worsted weight, approx. 40 yards — cream or white
- **Color C (Gill Branches/Accents):** Worsted weight, approx. 30 yards — deep magenta, hot pink, or red-violet
- **Color D (Eye Rings, optional):** Worsted weight, approx. 10 yards — black or very dark brown

**Hook:**
- US E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook (one size smaller than yarn label recommendation for tighter amigurumi fabric)

**Other Materials:**
- Two 9 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Yarn needle (blunt tip, large eye)
- Stitch markers (locking style recommended, at least 4)
- Scissors
- Straight pins for assembly
- Optional: 18-gauge floral wire or pipe cleaners (2 pieces, 6 inches / 15 cm each) for gill stalk armature
- Optional: Craft glue (Fabri-Tac or similar) to stiffen gill stalks
- Optional: Small piece of pink or red felt for inner mouth lining accent

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## GAUGE
**5 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**
**5 rounds = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**

Gauge is important for achieving the correct finished size and for ensuring the fabric is tight enough to conceal stuffing. Work a gauge swatch and adjust hook size if needed.

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## SKILL LEVEL
⬛⬛⬛⬛ **Advanced**
This pattern requires comfort with: magic ring, continuous spiral rounds, invisible decrease, working into specific loops only (BLO/FLO), color changes, joining separate pieces mid-construction, and creating very small stitch counts for toes.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in same stitch |
| dec | invisible decrease: insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both loops, yo, pull through remaining 2 loops |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| ch | chain |
| BLO | back loop only |
| FLO | front loop only |
| MR | magic ring (adjustable ring) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| rep | repeat |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| yo | yarn over |
| [ ] | stitch count at end of round |
| ( ) | group of stitches to be repeated |
| × | times |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

**Magic Ring (MR):** Make a loop with the yarn tail on top, insert hook, pull up a loop of working yarn, ch 1 to secure, work specified stitches into the ring, then pull the tail to close.

**Invisible Decrease (dec):** Insert hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the following stitch (two front loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through the remaining 2 loops on hook. This creates a neater, less visible decrease than a standard sc2tog.

**Continuous Spiral:** Do NOT join rounds with a slip stitch unless specifically instructed. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work. The fabric spirals upward continuously.

**Closing 6 sts:** Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle. Working from the outside, insert needle through the front loop of each of the 6 remaining stitches. Pull snug to close the opening. Insert needle through the center to the inside and weave in end securely.

**Separated Toes Method:** Each leg ends with a 12-stitch round. Toes are worked by dividing this round into groups of 3 stitches and working a small tube off each group. Full instructions given in the Leg sections.

**Branch Gill Stalks:** Each gill stalk is a main tube with two smaller branch tubes added. Full instructions in the Gill Stalk section.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. The axolotl head is constructed in two parts: the **Upper Jaw/Head** and the **Lower Jaw**. These are worked separately, then joined at the sides to form the open smiling mouth. Work the mouth interior (Lower Jaw) in Color B for realistic contrast.

2. The **pointed nose/snout** is a small separate piece attached to the front of the Upper Jaw before assembly.

3. All limbs are worked **toes-first**, working individual toe tubes then joining them to work the leg tube upward. This creates cleanly separated toes.

4. **Stuff as you go.** Add fiberfill before any round where the opening becomes too small to fit your hand or a stuffing tool. Firm, even stuffing is essential for shape.

5. Insert **safety eyes** into the Upper Jaw/Head piece before the two jaw pieces are joined. Consult the assembly section for exact placement.

6. **Gill stalks** are worked last and attached to the back-sides of the head. If you wish them to be poseable, insert a folded piece of floral wire or pipe cleaner through the stalk before attaching.

7. A **fin ridge** runs along the top of the body from the back of the head to the tip of the tail. This is created by a surface crochet or chain stitch embroidery after assembly, or by a separately worked flat strip sewn along the dorsal line.

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## PART 1: UPPER JAW / HEAD

*Work in Color A unless otherwise noted.*
*This piece forms the top half of the head, the forehead, the back of the skull, and the upper mouth.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) × 6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) × 6. [24]
**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) × 6. [30]
**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) × 6. [36]
**Rnds 7–11:** Sc in each st around. [36] *(5 even rounds)*

> **Safety Eye Placement:** After Rnd 11, flatten the piece slightly to identify center front. Place safety eyes between Rnds 7 and 8, approximately 7–8 stitches apart (about 1.5 inches / 4 cm apart). Secure the backing washers on the inside. The magic ring end is the BACK of the head; the working end (open) is the front/mouth end.

**Rnd 12:** (4 sc, dec) × 6. [30]
**Rnd 13:** Sc in each st around. [30]
**Rnd 14:** (3 sc, dec) × 6. [24]
**Rnd 15:** Sc in each st around. [24]

> **Do NOT decrease further.** This open 24-stitch round is the mouth opening edge of the Upper Jaw. Do NOT fasten off. Set aside with a stitch marker in the working loop to prevent unraveling.

*At this point the Upper Jaw resembles a shallow bowl/dome, open at the front.*

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## PART 2: SNOUT / POINTED NOSE

*Work in Color A.*
*The axolotl's snout is a small, slightly flattened, pointed tube attached to the front center of the Upper Jaw.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc in ring. [4]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [8]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) × 4. [12]
**Rnds 4–6:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(3 even rounds)*

Fasten off, leaving a 14-inch tail for sewing. Do not stuff (or stuff very lightly for a firm point). Pinch the open end slightly flat to create a pointed oval profile.

**Attachment:** Pin the snout to the front-center of the Upper Jaw, centered below the safety eyes, with the snout pointing slightly downward and forward. The snout's open end overlaps the Upper Jaw surface. Sew in place securely using whip stitch around the entire perimeter of the base. Weave in end.

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## PART 3: LOWER JAW / MOUTH BASE

*Work in Color B (cream/white) for the mouth interior.*
*This piece forms the lower lip and visible mouth interior.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) × 6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) × 6. [24]
**Rnds 5–7:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(3 even rounds)*

> Do NOT decrease. This open 24-stitch round will be joined to the Upper Jaw. Do NOT fasten off.

*The Lower Jaw is a shallow, slightly domed disk — smaller in profile than the Upper Jaw.*

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## PART 4: JOINING UPPER AND LOWER JAW

*This creates the open, smiling mouth characteristic of the axolotl.*

**Setup:** Hold the Upper Jaw (Color A, 24 sts at opening) and the Lower Jaw (Color B, 24 sts at opening) with wrong sides facing each other — the INSIDE of both pieces facing inward between them. The opening gap at the front forms the mouth. You will join them together at the SIDES and BACK, leaving the front gap open to create the smile.

**Step 1:** Align the two pieces. The back halves will be joined (12 stitches each side = 12 pairs). The front 12 stitches of each piece (6 on the Upper, 6 on the Lower) remain open to form the mouth opening.

> **Identifying the join points:** Place a stitch marker at the leftmost side point of both jaws and another at the rightmost side point. The 12 stitches between the markers at the back will be joined; the 12 stitches at the front remain free.

**Step 2:** With Color A and a yarn needle (or with your crochet hook in a slip stitch join), join the back 12 stitch pairs together: working through one stitch of the Upper Jaw and the corresponding stitch of the Lower Jaw simultaneously, work sl st through both layers for 12 pairs of stitches across the back half. [12 sl sts joining = 12 sts each piece consumed]

**Step 3 — Mouth Edging:** Do not fasten off. Working along the open mouth edge (front 6 sts of Upper Jaw + 6 sts of Lower Jaw = 12 open sts forming the "lips"), join Color A and work 1 round of sc around the entire open mouth edge, placing 2 sc at each corner of the mouth for a slight upward curve. Work in Color A on the Upper lip and Color B on the Lower lip if desired, or work entirely in Color A. Sl st to join this round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

**Step 4:** You now have a head/jaw assembly that is closed at the back and open at the front with a smiling mouth gap. Begin stuffing the Upper Jaw head cavity firmly through the back opening if not already stuffed.

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## PART 5: BODY

*Work in Color A. Change to Color B for a belly effect as noted.*
*The axolotl body is an elongated, slightly flattened oval.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) × 6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) × 6. [24]
**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) × 6. [30]
**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) × 6. [36]
**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) × 6. [42]
**Rnds 8–10:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(3 even rounds)*

> **Belly Color Change (optional):** At this point, work the bottom 14 stitches of each round in Color B (cream) and the remaining 28 stitches in Color A to create a paler belly. Carry both colors loosely. Alternatively, embroider or applique the belly after assembly.

**Rnds 11–22:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(12 even rounds for body length)*

> Stuff the body firmly and evenly as you work. Use a stuffing tool or pencil to push fiberfill into the back end.

**Rnd 23:** (5 sc, dec) × 6. [36]
**Rnd 24:** Sc in each st around. [36]
**Rnd 25:** (4 sc, dec) × 6. [30]
**Rnd 26:** Sc in each st around. [30]
**Rnd 27:** (3 sc, dec) × 6. [24]
**Rnd 28:** (2 sc, dec) × 6. [18]

> Add final stuffing here, very firmly.

**Rnd 29:** (Sc, dec) × 6. [12]
**Rnd 30:** Dec × 6. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Close the 6 remaining stitches using the closing method described in Special Techniques. Weave in end.

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## PART 6: FRONT LEGS WITH SEPARATED TOES (Make 2)

*Work in Color A.*
*Each front leg has 4 separated toes. Toes are worked first as individual small tubes, then joined to form the foot/leg tube.*

### TOE CONSTRUCTION (Make 4 toes per leg — 8 toes total)

**Each individual toe:**
**Rnd 1:** MR, 5 sc in ring. [5]
**Rnds 2–4:** Sc in each st around. [5] *(3 even rounds)*

Do NOT fasten off the last toe. For the first three toes, fasten off leaving a 6-inch tail, thread onto yarn needle, pass tail through all 5 stitches of the open end, pull snug to a point, and weave in. Leave the fourth toe attached to working yarn.

*Each completed toe is approximately 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) long — small, rounded-tip tubes.*

### JOINING TOES INTO FOOT

**Setup:** Hold 4 completed toes side by side (still attached to working yarn on toe #4). Using the working yarn from Toe 4:

**Join Round:** Working through the open tops of all 4 toes as if they were a single joined ring, sc into each remaining stitch of each toe around: 3 sc across Toe 1 open end, 3 sc across Toe 2, 3 sc across Toe 3, 3 sc across Toe 4. [12 sts total]

> **Tip:** The 5-stitch open tops of each toe overlap slightly at the join. Work into 3 stitches of each toe (the 2 side stitches and the 1 center stitch) to total 12 sts. Skip the outermost connecting stitch between toes or sc2tog there to avoid bunching. Adjust count to exactly 12 after the join round by distributing any extra sc evenly.

**Rnd 1 post-join:** Sc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 2:** (Sc, dec) × 4. [8] *(Taper slightly at ankle)*
**Rnds 3–8:** Sc in each st around. [8] *(6 even rounds for foreleg length — approx 1.2 inches / 3 cm)*

Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a 16-inch tail for sewing. Flatten the top opening into a horizontal oval for sewing to the body.

*Make 2 front legs.*

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## PART 7: BACK LEGS WITH SEPARATED TOES (Make 2)

*Work in Color A.*
*Back legs are thicker and slightly longer than front legs, with 4 toes each.*

### TOE CONSTRUCTION (Make 4 toes per leg — 8 toes total)

**Each individual toe:**
**Rnd 1:** MR, 5 sc in ring. [5]
**Rnds 2–5:** Sc in each st around. [5] *(4 even rounds — slightly longer than front toes)*

Finish toes the same as front leg toes (close tips of toes 1–3, leave toe 4 attached).

### JOINING TOES INTO FOOT

Join round exactly as for front legs. [12 sts]

**Rnd 1 post-join:** Sc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 2:** (2 sc, inc) × 4. [16] *(Back legs are wider/more muscular)*
**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [16]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, dec) × 4. [12] *(Taper to leg width)*
**Rnds 5–10:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(6 even rounds for hindleg length)*

Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a 16-inch tail. Flatten the top opening horizontally for sewing.

*Make 2 back legs.*

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## PART 8: TAIL

*Work in Color A.*
*The tail is a long, tapered tube with a fin ridge added after.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) × 6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) × 6. [24]
**Rnds 5–8:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(4 even rounds)*
**Rnd 9:** (2 sc, dec) × 6. [18]
**Rnds 10–13:** Sc in each st around. [18] *(4 even rounds)*
**Rnd 14:** (Sc, dec) × 6. [12]
**Rnds 15–18:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(4 even rounds)*
**Rnd 19:** (2 sc, dec) × 3. [9]
**Rnds 20–22:** Sc in each st around. [9] *(3 even rounds)*
**Rnd 23:** (Sc, dec) × 3. [6]
**Rnds 24–25:** Sc in each st around. [6] *(2 even rounds — tail tip)*

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Close the 6 stitches using the closing method. Weave in. Stuff the tail lightly — it should be flexible, not rigid.

**Total tail length:** approximately 3.5–4 inches (9–10 cm).

### TAIL FIN EDGING

Using Color A or Color B (your choice — many axolotls have a lighter fin), attach yarn at the widest point of the tail (around Rnd 4, top center of tail). Work a **surface crochet chain** along the top of the tail from the body attachment end to the tip, creating a raised ridge:

*Insert hook through the fabric surface at Rnd 4 top, pull up loop, *insert hook 2 rows forward, pull up loop, yo, pull through both loops on hook (surface sl st); rep from * along the top of the tail to the tip.*

For a more pronounced fin, work 2–3 rows of this surface chain in parallel ridges approximately 4 stitches apart. Alternatively, cut a fin shape from cream or matching felt and sew it along the dorsal line of the tail.

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## PART 9: DORSAL FIN STRIP (Optional — for extra realism)

*Work in Color B or Color A.*

This narrow flat strip runs from the back of the head down the body and continues into the tail fin, representing the axolotl's characteristic dorsal fin crest.

**Ch 65.** *(Adjust as needed once head and body are assembled to measure the actual dorsal line length.)*
**Row 1:** Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch. [64 sc]
**Row 2:** Ch 1, turn; sc, (ch 2, skip 1 st, sc) across. *(Creates scalloped lacy edge for fin appearance)*

Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew this strip along the top centerline of the assembled body and tail using small, tight whip stitches so it stands up slightly.

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## PART 10: GILL STALKS (Make 6 total — 3 for each side)

*Work in Color C (deep magenta/hot pink).*
*Each completed gill stalk has a main tube with 2 smaller branch tubes, mimicking the axolotl's feathery external gills.*

### MAIN GILL STALK

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]
**Rnds 2–10:** Sc in each st around. [6] *(9 even rounds — creates a tube approx. 1.8 inches / 4.5 cm long)*

Do NOT fasten off. Proceed to add branches.

### BRANCH 1 (worked from main stalk)

Sl st into the nearest stitch of the main stalk at approximately Rnd 4 position (4 rounds up from the base). Mark this point.

*Adding the branch:* Sc 3 into the marked stitch of the main stalk (working sideways into the stitch as a new branch base). [3]

**Branch Rnds 1–5:** Work 3 sc in continuous spiral around these 3 stitches. [3 per round] *(This creates a tiny tightly-worked finger tube, about 0.6 inches / 1.5 cm long.)*

Fasten off branch. Pull tail through center of branch to the inside of main stalk tube. Weave in.

### BRANCH 2 (worked from main stalk)

At approximately Rnd 7 position on main stalk (3 rounds above Branch 1), attach Color C. Work same as Branch 1.

**Branch Rnds 1–4:** Work 3 sc in continuous spiral. [3 per round]

Fasten off branch. Weave in tail.

**Completing the main stalk:** Return to the live stitches at the top of the main stalk. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail. Pull tail through all 6 stitches of the top opening and pull snug to a rounded tip.

*Finished gill stalk: tapered tube approx 1.8" long with 2 small branches at different heights.*

> **If using wire armature:** Before closing the top, insert a 5-inch piece of folded floral wire (folded in half so no sharp end is exposed). Fold the bottom of the wire over itself once more so the end is inside the base. Close and sew in place. This allows the gills to be bent into a realistic fanned-out pose.

*Make 6 gill stalks total. You may vary the lengths slightly (make some 8 rounds, some 10 rounds, some 12 rounds) for a more natural, irregular look.*

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## ASSEMBLY

### STEP 1: ATTACH HEAD TO BODY

Pin the Head/Jaw assembly to the wider end of the Body (the Rnd 1 magic ring end is the tail end; the Rnd 23–30 decreasing end is the neck/head end). The head should face forward, tilted very slightly upward (the lower jaw angles down, the upper jaw and snout angle forward).

Sew the head to the body using ladder stitch around the full circumference of the neck junction (approximately 24 stitches around each piece). Stuff the neck area with additional fiberfill as you sew if any gap appears. Pull tightly. Knot securely. Weave in.

### STEP 2: ATTACH FRONT LEGS

Position each front leg on the lower side of the body at approximately Rnd 10–12 (about 1 inch / 2.5 cm behind the head attachment). The leg should angle slightly forward and downward. The flattened top of the leg opening lies flush against the body.

Pin carefully. Sew around the entire top opening with whip stitch using the long yarn tail. Use a second length of matching yarn if needed to complete the seam. Repeat for the other front leg, placing it symmetrically on the opposite side.

### STEP 3: ATTACH BACK LEGS

Position each back leg on the lower side of the body at approximately Rnd 18–20 (toward the rear of the body). Angle slightly outward and backward. Sew in place as for front legs.

### STEP 4: ATTACH TAIL

Position the wide base of the tail against the back end of the body (opposite the head), centered. The tail extends horizontally backward. Sew around the base of the tail with whip stitch. Add extra stuffing to the body through any gap before closing completely. Sew shut.

### STEP 5: ATTACH GILL STALKS

Place 3 gill stalks on each side of the head, at the back sides where the head meets the neck (approximately at the level of the safety eyes, along the back-upper edge of the head). Arrange them in a fan shape:
- **Stalk 1:** Uppermost position, angling upward and outward
- **Stalk 2:** Middle position, angling straight outward
- **Stalk 3:** Lower position, angling slightly downward and outward

If using wire armature, bend stalks into your desired pose before attaching. Sew each stalk base firmly to the head using the tail yarn, passing the needle through the head fabric 3–4 times. Knot inside the head. Do not allow any gill stalk to pull off easily.

### STEP 6: ATTACH DORSAL FIN STRIP (if made)

Starting at the back of the head and running over the center top of the body to the base of the tail, pin the dorsal fin strip in place. Sew down with small hidden whip stitches along both edges, allowing the chain scallop top edge to remain free and upright.

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## FINISHING & EMBROIDERY

### MOUTH DETAIL
Using Color B (or a deep pink/red embroidery floss), work a few small straight stitches inside the mouth opening to suggest the inner mouth lining. Alternatively, cut a small oval or half-circle from pink felt and glue or sew it inside the mouth opening.

### SMILE CORNERS
With Color C or dark pink embroidery floss, embroider a tiny curved stitch at each corner of the mouth opening to accentuate the upward smile shape (2–3 stitches each side, curving up).

### EYE CIRCLES (optional)
With Color A or a slightly darker pink, work a few chain stitches or a surface crochet ring around each safety eye to create the slightly raised, lidded eye look characteristic of axolotls.

### NOSTRIL DOTS (optional)
With dark brown or black embroidery floss, embroider 2 small French knots or satin-stitch dots on the upper surface of the snout, toward the tip, for nostrils.

### BODY SPOTS (optional)
Axolotls often have subtle spotting. Using a small amount of Color C or a slightly deeper pink, embroider scattered tiny satin-stitch dots along the back and sides of the body.

### WEAVE IN ALL REMAINING ENDS
Turn the piece and check every attachment point. Weave all yarn tails in at least 2 directions and trim.

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## BLOCKING

Lightly steam or spritz the finished axolotl to help even out the stitches and set the shape. Do not press — hold the steam iron 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) away. Shape the gill stalks and tail fin while damp and allow to dry completely before displaying.

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## STITCH COUNT VERIFICATION CHART

| Piece | Max Stitches | Final Closing Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Jaw/Head | 36 (Rnds 6–11) | 24 (open, for joining) |
| Lower Jaw | 24 (Rnds 4–7) | 24 (open, for joining) |
| Snout | 12 (Rnds 3–6) | 12 (open, sewn to head) |
| Body | 42 (Rnds 7–22) | 6 (closed) |
| Front Leg (each) | 12 (post-join) | 8 (open, sewn to body) |
| Back Leg (each) | 16 (Rnd 2 post-join) | 12 (open, sewn to body) |
| Toe (each) | 5 | 5 (closed to point or joined) |
| Tail | 24 (Rnds 4–8) | 6 (closed) |
| Gill Stalk main | 6 | 6 (closed to point) |
| Gill Branch | 3 | 3 (closed) |

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## DESIGNER NOTES

The axolotl (*Ambystoma mexicanum*) is a neotenic salamander that retains its larval features into adulthood, most notably its spectacular external gill stalks. The open, upward-curving smile is a natural feature of the species' face structure. This pattern is designed to capture those distinctive characteristics: the wide, flat head; the pointed, rounded snout; the permanently-smiling open mouth; and the magnificent feathery gills. The four limbs with separated, slender toes reflect the axolotl's actual digit count (4 on front feet, 5 on back — **for strict accuracy, make 4 toes on front feet and 5 toes on back feet**, adjusting the back foot join round to 15 sts instead of 12).

**Color variations:** Wild-type axolotls are dark brown/olive with gold speckles. The beloved leucistic (pink with black eyes) morph is most common in captivity and is the intended color of this pattern. Golden albino (yellow/gold body, gold eyes), melanoid (solid black/dark gray), and piebald (white with dark patches) variants can all be achieved with yarn color substitutions.

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*Pattern designed for personal use and gift-giving. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. Finished items made from this pattern may be sold in limited quantities with credit to the designer.*