purlJam

<pattern>

---

# 🌸 ROSEBUD RAGLAN
### A Top-Down Seamless Baby Girl Pullover
#### Sizes: 0–3 Months through 18–24 Months

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This sweet little top-down raglan pullover is worked seamlessly from the neck down, so there are no irritating seams to bother baby's delicate skin. A back button placket makes dressing easy, and a simple eyelet row at the hem and cuffs adds a pretty, feminine touch without any complex techniques. This is a perfect beginner project — if you can knit, purl, and increase, you can make this!

---

## SIZES

**Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6)**
Fits: 0–3 months (3–6 months, 6–9 months, 9–12 months, 12–18 months, 18–24 months)

> **How to choose your size:** This pattern is designed with approximately 2 inches (5 cm) of positive ease for a comfortable, roomy fit. Choose the size closest to baby's actual chest measurement. When in doubt between sizes, size up — babies grow fast!

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Size 1 (0–3m) | Size 2 (3–6m) | Size 3 (6–9m) | Size 4 (9–12m) | Size 5 (12–18m) | Size 6 (18–24m) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Chest Circumference** | 18" (46 cm) | 20" (51 cm) | 22" (56 cm) | 23" (58 cm) | 24" (61 cm) | 25" (64 cm) |
| **Body Length** (underarm to hem) | 5½" (14 cm) | 6" (15 cm) | 6½" (17 cm) | 7" (18 cm) | 7½" (19 cm) | 8" (20 cm) |
| **Yoke Depth** (neck to underarm) | 4" (10 cm) | 4" (10 cm) | 4¼" (11 cm) | 4¼" (11 cm) | 4½" (11.5 cm) | 4½" (11.5 cm) |
| **Sleeve Length** (underarm to cuff) | 5½" (14 cm) | 6" (15 cm) | 6½" (17 cm) | 7" (18 cm) | 7½" (19 cm) | 8" (20 cm) |
| **Upper Arm Circumference** | 6¼" (16 cm) | 7" (18 cm) | 7¾" (20 cm) | 8" (20 cm) | 8½" (22 cm) | 9" (23 cm) |
| **Neck Circumference** (finished) | 10½" (27 cm) | 11" (28 cm) | 11½" (29 cm) | 12" (31 cm) | 12½" (32 cm) | 13" (33 cm) |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Worsted weight (Medium / #4)
- **Yardage:**
  - Size 1 (0–3m): approx. **200 yards (183 m)**
  - Size 2 (3–6m): approx. **250 yards (229 m)**
  - Size 3 (6–9m): approx. **300 yards (274 m)**
  - Size 4 (9–12m): approx. **330 yards (302 m)**
  - Size 5 (12–18m): approx. **370 yards (338 m)**
  - Size 6 (18–24m): approx. **420 yards (384 m)**

> **Yarn Suggestions:** Choose a soft, **machine-washable** yarn — this is essential for baby items that will be washed frequently! Great choices include:
> - **Lion Brand Pound of Love** (acrylic, machine washable)
> - **Cascade 220 Superwash** (superwash wool)
> - **Paintbox Simply DK** (note: if substituting DK, adjust needle size and re-gauge)
> - Any soft worsted weight labeled "superwash" or "machine wash"
>
> 🚫 *Avoid scratchy wool, mohair, or any yarn with a halo that could shed near baby's face.*

### Needles
- **Main needle:** US 9 / 5.5 mm, 16" (40 cm) circular needle (for yoke and small circumferences)
- **Body & longer sections:** US 9 / 5.5 mm, 24" (60 cm) circular needle *(or use magic loop with a 40" / 100 cm cable)*
- **Ribbing:** US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16" (40 cm) circular needle (or same length as main needle)
- **Double-pointed needles (DPNs):** US 9 / 5.5 mm, set of 4 or 5 *(for sleeve cuffs, or use magic loop)*

> *Always use the needle size that gives you the correct gauge.*

### Notions
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique/different color for beginning of round)
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn (for holding sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle
- 3 small buttons, ½" (12 mm) diameter (for back placket)
- Scissors

---

## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch on US 9 / 5.5 mm needles

> ⚠️ **Gauge is important!** Please make a gauge swatch before starting. Wash and block your swatch the same way you plan to care for the finished item — yarn can change size after washing! If you have too many stitches per inch, go up a needle size. If you have too few, go down a needle size.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **BO** | Bind off |
| **BOR** | Beginning of round |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **k** | Knit |
| **k2tog** | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **kfb** | Knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase — 1 stitch added) |
| **M1L** | Make 1 Left: Insert left needle from front to back under the bar between stitches, knit through the back loop (left-leaning increase) |
| **M1R** | Make 1 Right: Insert left needle from back to front under the bar between stitches, knit through the front loop (right-leaning increase) |
| **p** | Purl |
| **pm** | Place marker |
| **RS** | Right side |
| **rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **sm** | Slip marker |
| **ssk** | Slip, slip, knit: Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, knit them together through the back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **WS** | Wrong side |
| **yo** | Yarn over |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Raglan Increase Row/Round
This is the key increase technique used throughout the yoke. It creates the 4 diagonal lines of the raglan.

**When working FLAT (during placket section):**
- (RS): *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * to * at each of the 4 markers. Knit to end. *(8 stitches increased)*
- (WS): Purl all stitches across.

**When working IN THE ROUND (after joining):**
- *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * to * at each of the 4 markers. Knit to end of round. *(8 stitches increased)*

### Button Placket
The back button placket is worked flat (back and forth in rows) during the yoke section, then seamed at the base when you join to work in the round. It sits at the center back for easy on/off dressing.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction Overview:** This pullover is worked from the top down. You begin by casting on neckline stitches and working flat (back and forth) to create a short button placket at the back. After a few inches, the back is joined and the yoke is worked in the round. At the underarms, sleeve stitches are placed on hold and the body is worked in the round to the hem. Sleeves are then picked up and worked in the round to the cuff.

2. **Reading the Pattern:** Instructions are written for Size 1 (0–3m) first, with other sizes in parentheses: **Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6)**. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

3. **Markers:** Use 4 stitch markers to mark the raglan lines. Use a unique/contrasting marker for the beginning of round (BOR). The 4 raglan markers divide your work into: Left Front / Left Sleeve / Back / Right Sleeve / Right Front.

4. **Yarn Care:** Always follow the yarn label for care instructions. For most superwash or acrylic yarns: machine wash cold, gentle cycle; tumble dry low or lay flat to dry.

5. **Sizing Up:** Babies grow quickly! If your baby is between sizes or you want more growing room, cast on for the next size up.

---

## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

This table shows the key stitch count milestones for each size. Refer back to this table as you work.

| Section | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 | Size 6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Neckline cast-on** | 48 sts | 50 sts | 52 sts | 54 sts | 56 sts | 58 sts |
| — Back | 18 sts | 19 sts | 20 sts | 21 sts | 22 sts | 23 sts |
| — Each Sleeve (start) | 6 sts | 6 sts | 6 sts | 6 sts | 6 sts | 6 sts |
| — Each Front (start) | 8 sts | 8 sts | 9 sts | 9 sts | 10 sts | 10 sts |
| — Raglan sts (4 total) | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts |
| **Increase rounds worked** | 16 | 18 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 |
| **Total sts at underarm** | 176 | 194 | 212 | 222 | 232 | 242 |
| — Each Sleeve at underarm | 38 sts | 42 sts | 46 sts | 48 sts | 50 sts | 52 sts |
| — Body at underarm (before joining) | 96 sts | 106 sts | 116 sts | 122 sts | 128 sts | 134 sts |
| **Underarm cast-on (each side)** | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts | 4 sts |
| **Body sts in the round** | 80 sts | 90 sts | 98 sts | 104 sts | 108 sts | 112 sts |
| **Sleeve sts in the round** (after joining underarm) | 42 sts | 46 sts | 50 sts | 52 sts | 54 sts | 56 sts |
| **Sleeve decrease rounds** | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 |
| **Cuff sts** | 32 sts | 36 sts | 38 sts | 40 sts | 40 sts | 42 sts |

> **Math check for body:** Body = (Front × 2) + Back + (4 raglan sts) + (underarm CO × 2)
> - Size 1: Starting front each side = 8 sts + 16 increase rounds = 24 sts each. Back = 18 + 16 = 34 sts. Body = 24 + 24 + 34 + (4 × 2) = **86 sts** + **(-4 raglan sts absorbed into seams)** → After removing the 4 raglan marker stitches from the count and adding 2 × 4 underarm = 82 + 8 = **80 sts** ✅

> **Note on raglan st math:** The 4 "raglan stitches" (the 1 stitch on each side of each marker) become part of the body and sleeves at separation — they are knitted as regular stitches and distributed to the nearest section. See the Yoke Separation instructions below for exactly how to divide stitches.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND & BUTTON PLACKET

**With smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), CO** 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) **sts** using the long-tail cast on (or your preferred cast on).

**Set-up Row (WS):** P8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) [Right Front], pm, p6 [Right Sleeve], pm, p18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23) [Back], pm, p6 [Left Sleeve], pm, p8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) [Left Front].

> **Note:** You are working FLAT (back and forth in rows) for the next section to create the button placket opening at the back. The "back" section will be split into two halves later.

**Neckband (worked flat):**

**Row 1 (Buttonhole Row, RS):** *K2, yo, k2tog* (buttonhole made), knit to last 4 sts, ssk, yo (buttonhole made), k2.
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts.
**Row 3 (RS):** Knit all sts.
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.

Repeat Rows 3–4 once more (2 more rows of plain stockinette). You have worked 6 rows total from cast-on.

> **Note on buttonholes:** Two buttonholes are created at the neckband edge (one at each end of the needle — these become the top two buttons of the back placket). The third buttonhole will be added at the end of the placket section below.

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE — WORKED FLAT

**Switch to larger needles (US 9 / 5.5 mm).**

Continue working **flat** (RS and WS rows), working the Raglan Increase Row on every RS row as follows:

**Increase Row (RS):** K to 1 st before first marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; *k to 1 st before next marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * to * for each remaining marker. Knit to end. *(8 sts increased)*

**Plain Row (WS):** Purl all sts across.

**Work the Increase Row/Plain Row sequence 4 times total** (4 increase rows = 32 sts added). You now have 80 (82, 84, 86, 88, 90) sts on your needles.

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work the Increase Row as established, but when you reach the last 4 sts, work: ssk, yo, k2 (third buttonhole made at the bottom of the placket).

**Plain Row (WS):** Purl all sts.

After working this 5th increase row, you have completed **5 flat increase rows** and have 88 (90, 92, 94, 96, 98) sts.

---

### SECTION 3: JOIN FOR WORKING IN THE ROUND

**Joining Round (RS):** Work the Increase Row across all sts, then at the end of the row, fold the back edges of the placket so that they overlap by about ½" (1.5 cm) with button side on top (the side with buttonholes), and use your working yarn to join into the round by knitting the first cast-on stitch. Place a unique BOR marker.

> **Tip:** You can use a small locking stitch marker or a safety pin to temporarily pin the placket overlap in place while you knit the next few rounds. The placket will be fully sewn down in the finishing steps.

**The yoke will now be worked entirely in the round.**

After joining, you have completed **6 increase rounds total** and have 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106) sts.

**Continue the Raglan Increase Round:**

**Increase Round:** *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * to * at all 4 markers. Knit to BOR marker. *(8 sts increased)*
**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**Work these 2 rounds** (Increase Round + Plain Round) **until you have completed a total of 16 (18, 20, 21, 22, 23) increase rounds** (counting both the flat rows worked earlier AND the in-the-round increase rounds).

> **Stitch count check:** After all increase rounds, you should have:
> - Size 1: 48 + (16 × 8) = **176 sts** ✅
> - Size 2: 50 + (18 × 8) = **194 sts** ✅
> - Size 3: 52 + (20 × 8) = **212 sts** ✅
> - Size 4: 54 + (21 × 8) = **222 sts** ✅
> - Size 5: 56 + (22 × 8) = **232 sts** ✅
> - Size 6: 58 + (23 × 8) = **242 sts** ✅

**Yoke depth at this point (approximate):**
Flat section (5 rows): ~¾"
In-the-round section: remaining rounds at ~6 rows/inch
- Size 1: 10 in-the-round increase rounds = 20 total rounds = ~3¼". Total yoke ~4" ✅
- Size 2: 12 in-round = 24 rounds = ~4". Total ~4¾" — close to target. ✅
*(Work a plain round or two if yoke is too shallow before separating; work one fewer plain round between increases if too deep.)*

> **Note:** Measure your yoke from back neck to needle — it should measure approximately 4 (4, 4¼, 4¼, 4½, 4½) inches. Adjust by working extra plain rounds or skipping a plain round as needed to reach the target depth before separating.

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

On the next round, you will place the sleeve stitches on hold and cast on underarm stitches to join the body into a circle.

**Separation Round:**

1. K to first marker (this takes you to the end of the Right Front section).
2. **Remove marker.** Place the next **38 (42, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts** (Right Sleeve) onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Remove the second marker.
3. Using the backward loop cast-on (or cable cast-on), CO **4 sts** onto the right needle for the right underarm.
4. K across the **Back** sts (all sts between the 3rd and 4th markers, including the raglan sts on each side). Remove both markers as you pass them.
5. **Remove marker.** Place the next **38 (42, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts** (Left Sleeve) onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Remove the final marker.
6. CO **4 sts** for the left underarm.
7. K to end of round (Left Front sts).

**Body stitch count:**
- Right Front + Back + Left Front + 4 underarm CO (right) + 4 underarm CO (left)
- Size 1: 24 + 34 + 24 + 4 + 4 = **90 sts** → Hmm, let me recount with raglan assignment.

> **Clarification on raglan stitch assignment:** At separation, the 1 stitch on each side of the raglan markers is assigned to the nearest BODY section (not the sleeve). This means:
> - Each Front gains 1 extra st from the raglan (the "k1" before the marker) = Front total at separation: 8 + 16 + 1 = **25 sts** (size 1)
> - Back gains 2 extra sts (one from each side) = 18 + 16 + 2 = **36 sts** (size 1)
> - Each Sleeve: 6 + 16 = **22 sts** × 2 = **44 sts**... 
>
> Wait — let me recount cleanly. Starting sts: Front 8, Sleeve 6, Back 18, Sleeve 6, Front 8 = 48. Each increase round adds: Front +1, +1 = +2 per front; Sleeve +2 per sleeve; Back +2. After 16 rounds: Front = 8+16=24 each; Sleeve = 6+16=22 each... but the "raglan stitch" (1 st on each side of the marker) belongs to both sections depending on where you split.
>
> **Simplified split for clarity:** Split at the markers. The marker sits between the sections. Each section simply has the stitches assigned to it by the initial setup + increases:
> - Each Front = 8 + 16 = **24 sts** (size 1)
> - Each Sleeve = 6 + (16 × 2) = 6 + 32 = **38 sts** (size 1) ← each sleeve gains 1 stitch per increase round from EACH adjacent marker (M1L on one side, M1R on the other)
> - Back = 18 + (16 × 2) = 18 + 32 = **50 sts** → Wait, back only has increases from 2 markers, so +2 per round = 18 + 32 = **50 sts** (size 1)
>
> Total check: 24 + 38 + 50 + 38 + 24 = **174 sts** — that's 2 short of 176. The 2 missing stitches are the actual "marker" sts — in this pattern we DO NOT knit separate "raglan column" sts; the markers are placed BETWEEN stitches. So the total IS: 24 + 38 + 50 + 38 + 24 = 174... plus the 4 raglan markers are just markers, not stitches. This is 174, not 176.
>
> **Root of discrepancy:** The initial setup has 48 sts, and I need to recheck the starting sleeve allocation. Let me re-examine: 8+6+18+6+8 = **46** + 4 markers = still 46 sts. That doesn't equal 48.
>
> **Corrected starting sts:** 48 total. If Front = 8, Sleeve = 6, Back = 18, that gives: 8+6+18+6+8 = 46. I need 2 more sts to reach 48. These become the "raglan column" stitches — 1 on each side of each marker... This is getting complex. **Let me simplify the construction for a beginner pattern:**
>
> **REVISED APPROACH:** Assign 1 "raglan stitch" to each side of each marker = 4 markers × 2 = 8 raglan sts. These are knitted as part of the pattern but are distinct markers. Each raglan "seam" = [k1 (raglan st)] [marker] [k1 (raglan st)]. This is cleaner. So initial CO of 48 = Front 8 + raglan1 + Sleeve 4 + raglan1 + Back 16 + raglan1 + Sleeve 4 + raglan1 + Front 8 + (raglan pair at join point handled differently since we're working flat)...
>
> **SIMPLEST CORRECT APPROACH for a beginner pattern:** Don't assign separate "raglan sts" — just work M1R before each marker and M1L after each marker. Each section increases by 2 per increase round (one from each adjacent marker). Sections at cast-on: establish counts that add up to the CO number, and after N increase rounds, each count = start + (2 × N increases).

**FINAL CORRECTED STITCH COUNTS TABLE:**

Starting CO: each front + each sleeve + back = total
- Size 1: Front 8+8, Sleeve 7+7, Back 18 = **48 sts** ✅
- Size 2: Front 8+8, Sleeve 8+8, Back 18 = **50 sts** ✅  
  (Alternatively: Front 8+8, Sleeve 7+7, Back 20 = 50 ✅)
- Size 3: Front 9+9, Sleeve 7+7, Back 20 = **52 sts** ✅
- Size 4: Front 9+9, Sleeve 8+8, Back 20 = **54 sts** ✅
- Size 5: Front 10+10, Sleeve 8+8, Back 20 = **56 sts** ✅
- Size 6: Front 10+10, Sleeve 9+9, Back 20 = **58 sts** ✅

After N increase rounds (each section gains 2 sts per round):
- Each Front grows by 2 per round
- Each Sleeve grows by 2 per round
- Back grows by 2 per round

**Size 1 after 16 rounds:**
- Front: 8 + 32 = **40 sts** each... that seems too large.

Wait — each section is BETWEEN two markers. The M1R happens just BEFORE the marker (so it's added to the section on the LEFT of the marker) and M1L happens just AFTER the marker (added to the section on the RIGHT). So each section gains exactly **2 sts per increase round** (one from M1R at its right boundary, one from M1L at its left boundary). Except the Fronts — which each only have ONE marker (one boundary) since the other end is the edge of the work (when flat) or the BOR (when round).

**This means:**
- Back: bounded by 2 markers → gains **2 sts per increase round**
- Each Sleeve: bounded by 2 markers → gains **2 sts per increase round**
- Each Front: bounded by only 1 marker each → gains **1 st per increase round**

Total per increase round: 2 (back) + 2×2 (sleeves) + 2×1 (fronts) = 2 + 4 + 2 = **8 sts** ✅ This confirms 8 sts per increase round.

**Size 1 after 16 rounds:**
- Front each: 8 + 16 = **24 sts**
- Sleeve each: 7 + 32 = **39 sts**
- Back: 18 + 32 = **50 sts**
- Total: 24+24+39+39+50 = **176 sts** ✅

**Body at underarm (front + back + underarm CO):** 24 + 50 + 24 + 4 + 4 = **106 sts**... that gives 106, not 80.

Hmm — this is because the fronts are meeting to form one continuous front panel. **106 sts is way too many for 18" chest (which needs 80 sts at 18 sts/4").**

**The problem:** My initial section counts are wrong for the target body measurements. I need to work backwards properly.

**CORRECT APPROACH — work backwards from target body sts:**

Target body sts (for finished chest circumference):
- Size 1: 80 sts (18" chest × 4.5 sts/in = 81 → 80)

At separation: Body sts (in round) = (Left Front + Back + Right Front) + (2 × 4 underarm CO) = LF + Back + RF + 8
So: LF + Back + RF = 80 - 8 = 72 sts

If Front and Back are roughly equal (front = back for a baby pullover):
Back = Front panel = 36 sts each? No — 72/2 = 36 each. But for a tube, back ≈ front ≈ half the circumference. So Back ≈ 36, Front ≈ 36.

After 16 increase rounds: Back = start + 32, Front total (both fronts together as the pattern is worked flat, each front gets 1 increase/round) = Left Front + Right Front = start_front×2 + 32.

If Back = 36 at separation → start back = 36 - 32 = **4 sts** (too small for a neck!)
If Front total = 36 at separation → start fronts = (36-32)/... each front gets +16 over 16 rounds → each front at separation = start_front + 16 = 18, so start_front = 2.

These starting numbers are too small. **The issue is that 80 sts for the body after 16 increase rounds means the starting cast-on sections for back and front are very small.** This is actually normal for top-down raglan — the cast-on is just the neckline, which IS small (it's a baby neck!).

Back = 4 sts at start → after 16 rounds = 36 sts ✓ (neck back ≈ 4 sts × 4/4.5" ≈ 0.9" — too narrow)

Hmm, 4 sts for back neck is unreasonably small. Let me reconsider.

**THE REAL ISSUE:** For a baby pullover, the neckline is about 10-11" circumference = ~45-50 sts. The starting cast-on is realistic. But the body chest is 80 sts = 18". This means the body is **much wider** than the neck — that's the point of the raglan! The math should work out. Let me try again with more realistic starting numbers.

Neck circumference ~10" (Size 1) = 10 × 4.5 = 45 sts ≈ 48 sts cast on.

Typical neck distribution for a baby: Back neck ~40% of neck, Front ~40%, Sleeves ~10% each.
- Back: 0.40 × 48 = ~19 sts
- Each Front: 0.20 × 48 = ~10 sts (combined front = 40% = 19 sts, but with placket split: ~10 each)
- Each Sleeve: 0.10 × 48 = ~5 sts

Check: 10+5+19+5+10 = **49** ≈ 48 ✓ (round down by 1 somewhere)

Use: Back = 18, Front each = 9, Sleeve each = 6. Total = 9+6+18+6+9 = **48** ✅

After 16 increase rounds:
- Back: 18 + 32 = **50 sts**
- Front each: 9 + 16 = **25 sts**
- Sleeve each: 6 + 32 = **38 sts**

Total: 25+38+50+38+25 = **176 sts** ✅

Body at underarm (both fronts + back + 2×4 underarm CO):
25 + 50 + 25 = 100 + 8 = **108 sts**

But target is 80 sts! 108 ≠ 80. 

I am clearly misunderstanding the standard top-down raglan construction. Let me re-examine.

**AH — I see the issue.** In a standard top-down pullover, the body is joined in the round at separation, and:

Body circumference = Back + Front (these are already the full front and back panels, each being roughly HALF the body circumference)

Back + Front = full body circumference in sts.

So if body = 80 sts total, then:
- Back ≈ 40 sts (back panel = half circumference)  
- Front ≈ 40 sts (front panel = half circumference)

**This means at separation, Back ≈ 40, Front total ≈ 40.** ← This is correct. The "fronts" in the flat-worked section are split into LEFT front and RIGHT front because of the placket opening, but they combine to = total front panel.

Left Front + Right Front at separation = Front panel = 40 sts (size 1)
Back at separation = 40 sts (size 1)

After 16 increase rounds:
- Back: start_back + 32 = 40 → start_back = **8 sts**
- Each front: start_front + 16 = 20 → start_front = **4 sts** each

Total CO: 4 + sleeve_start + 8 + sleeve_start + 4 = 48
Sleeve start each: (48 - 16) / 2 = **16 sts** each

After 16 rounds: Sleeve each = 16 + 32 = **48 sts**

Body: 40 (back) + 40 (combined fronts) + 8 (underarm CO) = **88 sts** — target was 80. Off by 8.

Hmm. Still not matching. Let me just try working forward with realistic baby neck dimensions and see what body circumference results, then adjust the number of increase rounds.

**Baby neck size 0-3m:** actual neck = ~9.5-10". With 1" of ease = 10.5" neck. 10.5 × 4.5 = 47.25 → **48 sts**.

Distribution: Back = 16, Front each = 8, Sleeve each = 6. Total: 8+6+16+6+8 = **44**. Need 4 more → add to sleeves: Back = 16, Front each = 8, Sleeve each = 8. Total: 8+8+16+8+8 = **48** ✅

After N increase rounds:
- Back = 16 + 2N
- Front each = 8 + N (only 1 marker boundary each)
- Sleeve each = 8 + 2N

Body at separation (both fronts + back, no underarm yet): (8+N) + (16+2N) + (8+N) = **32 + 4N**
Add 2×4 underarm CO = **32 + 4N + 8 = 40 + 4N**

Target body = 80 sts:
40 + 4N = 80 → 4N = 40 → **N = 10 increase rounds**

Sleeve at separation: 8 + 2(10) = **28 sts** each
Total sts check: (8+10) + (8+20) + (16+20) + (8+20) + (8+10) = 18+28+36+28+18 = **128 sts** (before joining)
→ After separation: Body = 18+36+18 = 72 + 8 underarm = **80 sts** ✅
→ Sleeve: 28 each + 4 underarm pick-up (shared) = 28 + 2 = **30 sts** per sleeve ← pickup 2 from each underarm edge

But with only 10 increase rounds at ~6 rounds/inch = 10 rounds ÷ 6 rows/inch ≈ **1.67" yoke depth.** That's way too shallow for a 4" target armhole depth.

**The solution:** Work increase rounds every OTHER round (which the template specifies), then work more plain rounds between to add depth without adding width. This is the standard top-down raglan approach.

**But the template says "Increase at each raglan line every other round"** — every other round IS every other round. So with N=10 increase rounds, there are 10 plain rounds interspersed = 20 total rounds ÷ 6 = **3.3" yoke depth**. Still too shallow.

To get 4" yoke: 4" × 6 rows/inch = **24 rows** = 12 increase rounds + 12 plain rounds.

With N = 12 increase rounds:
Body = 40 + 4(12) = **88 sts** (target is 80 — too many by 8)

**The fundamental tension:** More increase rounds = deeper yoke BUT wider body. These are interlinked.

**The real-world solution:** Use fewer stitches at the cast-on (smaller neck opening), or work increases every THIRD round instead of every other for later increases.

Let me look at this differently. In a real baby pattern with 18 sts/4":

**Neck CO should be ~10" = 45 sts → use 44 sts (for neat numbers).**

Distribution for 44 sts: Back = 14, Front each = 7, Sleeve each = 8. Check: 7+8+14+8+7 = **44** ✅

Yoke depth = 4" = 24 rounds total. Increases every other round = 12 increase rounds.

After 12 rounds:
- Back = 14 + 24 = **38 sts**
- Front each = 7 + 12 = **19 sts**  
- Sleeve each = 8 + 24 = **32 sts**

Body = 19+38+19 = 76 + 8 underarm = **84 sts** (target 80 — close! 4 sts over)

Sleeve = 32 + 2 picked up from underarm = **34 sts** per sleeve

Hmm, 84 sts ÷ 4.5 = 18.67" chest — that's close to 19", which with the seaming/ease would work as an 18" pattern. **Let's call this acceptable** and say finished chest = 18.5" for size 0-3m. Or reduce starting back to 12 and fronts to 7 each:

7+8+12+8+7 = 42 sts CO

After 12 rounds:
- Back = 12 + 24 = **36**
- Front each = 7 + 12 = **19**
- Sleeve each = 8 + 24 = **32**

Body = 19+36+19 = 74 + 8 = **82 sts** → 82/4.5 = 18.2" ≈ 18" ✅ Close enough!

**I think the right approach is to accept slight rounding in the body count and use round numbers.** Let me now establish a clean, consistent system:

**REVISED FINAL SYSTEM:**

Gauge: 18 sts / 4" = 4.5 sts/inch
Yoke worked with increases every other round.

| Size | Finished Chest | Body sts | Neck CO | Back start | Front each start | Sleeve each start | Increase rounds | Yoke depth (approx) |
|------|---------------|---------|---------|-----------|----------------|-----------------|----------------|---------------------|
| 1 (0-3m) | 18" | 82 | 44 | 12 | 7 | 9 | 12 | ~24 rnds ≈ 4" |
| 2 (3-6m) | 20" | 90 | 48 | 14 | 7 | 10 | 14 | ~28 rnds ≈ 4.7" ... hmm too deep|

Wait — I keep running into the same problem: to get enough yoke DEPTH, I need more increase rounds, which gives too much WIDTH. This is the classic baby raglan design challenge.

**THE REAL SOLUTION used by professional knitters:** Work the increases more frequently at first (every round), then switch to every other round. OR, accept that the yoke depth for a small baby is achieved partly through "plain rows" between increases at the END of the yoke (i.e., once you have enough width, continue in the round without increases to add depth).

**Standard professional approach for baby top-down raglans:**
1. Work a set number of increase rounds (every other round) to get the right circumference
2. THEN work additional plain rounds to reach the target yoke DEPTH before separating sleeves

This is the correct interpretation! The template's "every other round" produces the right WIDTH; then you add plain rounds for DEPTH. My math above was correct when calculating for the right number of increase rounds for width, and then I should specify "work even until yoke measures X inches" as a final step.

**So the correct flow is:**
1. Work N increase rounds (every other round) to reach correct body sts at separation
2. Work plain rounds until yoke depth = target
3. Separate sleeves

For Size 1:
- N = 10 increase rounds → body = 80 sts (let me recheck):
  - CO = 44: Back 12, Front each 7, Sleeve each 9
  - After 10 rounds: Back = 12+20=32, Front each = 7+10=17, Sleeve each = 9+20=29
  - Body = 17+32+17 = 66 + 8 underarm = **74 sts** → 74/4.5 = 16.4" Too small
  
Let me try N=12 with this distribution:
  - After 12 rounds: Back=12+24=36, Front each=7+12=19, Sleeve each=9+24=33
  - Body = 19+36+19 = 74 + 8 = **82 sts** → 82/4.5 = 18.2" ≈ 18" ✅

Yoke depth: 12 increase rounds × 2 (every other round) = 24 total rounds ÷ 6 rnds/inch = **4" yoke** ✅ 

This works! And no need for extra plain rounds in this case.

**Let me now do all 6 sizes systematically:**

Gauge: 4.5 sts/inch, 6 rnds/inch

Target body sts including underarm CO:

| Size | Target chest | Target body sts (circ) | Target yoke depth |
|------|-------------|----------------------|------------------|
| 1 | 18" | 81 → **82** | 4" |
| 2 | 20" | 90 → **90** | 4" |
| 3 | 22" | 99 → **98** | 4.25" |
| 4 | 23" | 103.5 → **104** | 4.25" |
| 5 | 24" | 108 → **108** | 4.5" |
| 6 | 25" | 112.5 → **112** | 4.5" |

Body sts at separation (before underarm CO of 8):
- Size 1: 82-8 = 74. Front each = 74/4 = 18.5... Let me use: Front each = 18, Back = 38 → 18+38+18 = 74 ✅
  (Front:Back ratio = 18:38 — that's almost 1:2 which is odd. Usually equal. But for a set-in look on a pullover, back and front should be equal.)
  
Actually for a tube body: Front panel = Back panel = Body sts / 2 = 37 each. But 74/2 = 37 each. OK.
So: Front each (= half of front panel because we're working flat with 2 fronts) = 18.5... let's say Left Front = 18, Right Front = 19 (or distribute the extra stitch to back).

This is getting very messy. **Let me use the simplest approach: make body sts divisible by 4** so that Front panel = Back panel = Body/2, and each front half = Body/4.

Adjusted targets:
- Size 1: body = **80 sts** (each front half = 20, back = 40... hmm 20+40+20=80 ✅ but back = 2× each front seems off for proportions. Actually in the round, front = back = 40 sts, and during the flat-work section, each front half is 20 sts.)
- Size 2: **92 sts** (23 each front, 46 back)... Let me try 92/4 = 23. Front each = 23, Back = 46. Hmm still feels unbalanced.

**The back/front balance issue:** In a pullover, front and back are equal (both = circumference/2). When working flat, each front is split in half = circumference/4. The back is the full back = circumference/2. So: Front each = Back/2. This is CORRECT and NOT "unbalanced." Let me redo:

Back = Body/2, Front each = Body/4

Size 1: Body = 80. Back = 40, Front each = 20. Back:Front ratio = 2:1 ✅ (front each is HALF the back because there are TWO fronts)

OK NOW let me redo the starting CO and increase rounds:

Each front starts at F₀ and gains 1 st per increase round → F₀ + N = 20 → F₀ = 20 - N
Back starts at B₀ and gains 2 sts per increase round → B₀ + 2N = 40 → B₀ = 40 - 2N
Each sleeve starts at S₀ and gains 2 sts per increase round → S₀ + 2N = sleeve_at_separation

The relationship: B₀ = F₀ × 2 (for balance, back = 2 × each front at start)
If F₀ = 20 - N and B₀ = 40 - 2N: B₀ = 2F₀ ✅ Always satisfied!

Total CO = 2F₀ + 2S₀ + B₀ = 2(20-N) + 2S₀ + (40-2N) = 40-2N + 2S₀ + 40-2N = **80 - 4N + 2S₀**

I need to choose N (increase rounds) to satisfy yoke depth, and S₀ (starting sleeve sts) for a reasonable sleeve circumference.

For yoke depth of 4" at 6 rnds/inch: 4 × 6 = 24 rounds total. With increases every other round: 12 increase rounds → **N = 12**.

F₀ = 20 - 12 = **8 sts** each front ✅ (reasonable for a neck front)
B₀ = 40 - 24 = **16 sts** back ✅ (reasonable for a neck back)
Check: F₀ × 2 + B₀ = 16 + 16 = 32 → neck = 32 sts (front+back) → sleeve = CO - 32 = CO - 32

Total neck circumference = F₀×2 + B₀ + 2S₀ = CO = 16+16+2S₀

Target neck: ~10.5" = 47 sts → CO ≈ 48
2S₀ = 48 - 32 = 16 → S₀ = **8 sts** each ✅

After 12 rounds: Sleeve each = 8 + 24 = **32 sts**
Upper arm at separation (before underarm pickup) = 32 sts = 32/4.5 = **7.1" upper arm** ✅ (reasonable for 0-3m)

Plus 2 sts picked up from each end of underarm CO (commonly) or full 4: Let's just add 4 underarm sts to body and 0 to sleeve (simpler for beginner), and count the sleeve as picking up from the body's cast-on:

Body: 20+40+20 = 80 + 8 underarm CO = **88 sts**... wait, 80 was my target TOTAL including underarm. Let me be clear:

**Body sts in the round = Front panel + Back panel + 2 × underarm CO = 40 + 40 + 8 = 88?? No.**

Actually: The body "tube" circumference is just Front + Back = 40+40 = 80 sts. The 4 sts CO at each underarm REPLACE the sleeve stitches to make the body tube continuous. So:

Body in round: (Left Front half) + (Right Front half) + Back + underarm CO at left + underarm CO at right
= 20 + 20 + 40 + 4 + 4 = **88 sts** (if I treat left underarm and right underarm each as 4 sts)

BUT: The target body circumference is 80 sts = 18". If I get 88 sts, that's 88/4.5 = 19.6" ≈ 20" — which is SIZE 2, not Size 1!

**I have been confusing "body sts before underarm CO" and "body sts after underarm CO."** The target body sts is AFTER adding underarm CO. So:

Target total body sts (in round, includes underarm COs) = 80 sts (for 18" chest)
Body sts from yoke (front + back, no underarm) = 80 - 8 = **72 sts**
→ Front panel = 36, Back panel = 36... **but then front ≠ back in standard knitting. Front = Back = 36. Each front half = 18.**

OK STARTING OVER with this understanding:

At separation:
- Body sts FROM YOKE (just the front/back sections, NOT including any underarm CO) = target - 8 = 72 sts
- Front panel total (both fronts combined) = 36 sts
- Back panel = 36 sts
- Each front half = 18 sts
- After adding 4 underarm CO on each side: 72 + 8 = **80 sts** total body ✅

Now working backwards through increase rounds (N):
- Each front half ends at 18 sts: F₀ + N = 18 → F₀ = 18 - N
- Back ends at 36 sts: B₀ + 2N = 36 → B₀ = 36 - 2N
- Note: B₀ = 2F₀ ← always satisfied ✅

For yoke depth 4" with increases every other round → N = 12 rounds:
- F₀ = 18 - 12 = **6 sts** each front
- B₀ = 36 - 24 = **12 sts** back
- Check: 6+12+6 = 24 sts for neck (front+back) ← neck circumference from these sections = 24 sts

Total CO: 2F₀ + 2S₀ + B₀ = 12 + 2S₀ + 12 = **24 + 2S₀**

Target neck CO ≈ 48: 2S₀ = 48 - 24 = 24 → S₀ = **12 sts** each sleeve at start

After 12 rounds: Sleeve each = 12 + 24 = **36 sts**
Upper arm circumference = 36/4.5 = **8"** — This is actually reasonable for a 0-3m baby (maybe slightly large, but with ease it works for a cute top look)

Let me verify full stitch count:
- After 12 increase rounds with CO = 48:
  - Each front: 6+12 = 18 ✅
  - Back: 12+24 = 36 ✅
  - Each sleeve: 12+24 = 36 ✅
  - Total: 18+36+36+36+18 = **144 sts**... wait, that's not 48 + 12×8 = 48+96 = **144** ✅✅✅

At separation: Body = 18+36+18 = 72 + 8 = **80 sts** ✅ PERFECT!

Yoke depth: 12 increase rounds × 2 rows each = 24 rows ÷ 6 rows/inch = **4"** ✅

**NOW LET ME DO ALL SIZES:**

Formula: 
- Target body sts (in round) includes underarm CO: Body = Target chest × 4.5
- Body from yoke = Body - 8
- Front+Back from yoke = Body - 8; each panel = (Body-8)/2; each front half = (Body-8)/4
- Number of increase rounds N: back needs 2N increases, so B₀ + 2N = (Body-8)/2
- Choose B₀ to make a reasonable neck. B₀ should be ~ neck_back × 4.5
- Baby back neck ~3-4": B₀ ≈ 12-16 sts
- N = [(Body-8)/2 - B₀] / 2

Yoke depth = N × 2 rounds / 6 rnds/inch = N/3 inches

Then check if yoke depth matches target:
- If too shallow: use smaller B₀ to increase N
- If too deep: use larger B₀ to decrease N
- Fine-tune with extra plain rounds at end of yoke if needed

Let me work through all sizes:

**SIZE 1 (0-3m): Target 18" chest = 81 → use 80 sts, yoke target 4"**
- Body from yoke = 72; each panel = 36; each front half = 18
- Target N: need N ≈ 12 for 4" yoke
- B₀ = 36 - 2(12) = 12; F₀ = 18-12 = 6; S₀ = (CO-B₀-2F₀)/2
- Use CO = 48: S₀ = (48-12-12)/2 = 24/2 = **12 sts** each sleeve
- After 12 rounds: Sleeve = 12+24 = 36 sts
- Yoke: 24 rounds = 4" ✅
- Check total: 48 + 12×8 = **144** ✅; body = 18+36+18 = 72+8 = **80** ✅

**SIZE 2 (3-6m): Target 20" chest = 90 sts, yoke target 4"**
- Body from yoke = 82; each panel = 41... not divisible cleanly. Let's use 90 sts: body from yoke = 82; front panel = 41, each front half = 20.5 → adjust: use body = **92 sts** for clean numbers.
  - Body from yoke = 84; each panel = 42; each front half = 21
  - OR: use 90 sts with Front = 44 (+2 underarm CO only 1 per side = +2?) — this gets messy.
  
  Better approach: just accept non-round-4 numbers and round:
  - Body from yoke = 82; Front panel = 41 → round to 40: back =40, each front = 20; body from yoke = 80; total with underarm = **88 sts** (88/4.5 = 19.6" ≈ 20") ✅ (close enough!)
  - N for 4" yoke: B₀ + 2N = 40 → with B₀ = 12: N = (40-12)/2 = 14 rounds
  - F₀ = 20-14 = 6; S₀ = (CO-B₀-2F₀)/2
  - CO = 50: S₀ = (50-12-12)/2 = 26/2 = **13 sts** each
  - After 14 rounds: Sleeve = 13+28 = 41 sts; Yoke = 28 rounds = 4.7" (target 4" — slightly over)
  
  Adjust: use B₀ = 14 → N = (40-14)/2 = 13 rounds; yoke = 26 rnds = 4.3" — still a bit over.
  Use B₀ = 16 → N = (40-16)/2 = 12 rounds; yoke = 24 rnds = 4" ✅
  - F₀ = 20-12 = 8; S₀ = (50-16-16)/2 = 18/2 = **9 sts** each
  - After 12 rounds: Sleeve = 9+24 = 33 sts (reasonable for 3-6m)
  - Body check: 8+33+16+(33+8 wait...

  Let me just recount: After 12 rounds:
  - Front each = 8+12 = **20** ✅
  - Back = 16+24 = **40** ✅
  - Sleeve each = 9+24 = **33** ✅
  - Total: 20+33+40+33+20 = **146** → CO was 50, 50+12×8=50+96=**146** ✅
  - Body = 20+40+20 = 80 + 8 = **88 sts** → 88/4.5 = 19.6" ≈ **20"** ✅

**SIZE 3 (6-9m): Target 22" chest = 99 → use 98 sts, yoke target 4.25"**
  - Body from yoke = 90; each panel = 45; each front half = 22.5 → round: back = 44, each front = 22; body from yoke = 88; total = **96 sts** → 96/4.5 = 21.3" (a bit under 22")
  - Try back = 46, each front = 23; body from yoke = 92; total = **100 sts** → 100/4.5 = 22.2" ✅ (close to 22")
  - N for 4.25" yoke: 4.25 × 6 = 25.5 rnds → use 26 rnds = 13 increase rounds
  - B₀ + 2N = 46 → B₀ + 26 = 46 → B₀ = 20 → seems large for back neck
  - Try N=14 (28 rounds = 4.7"): B₀ = 46-28 = 18; F₀ = 23-14 = 9
  - Try N=13 (4.3"): B₀ = 46-26=20 — too many start sts for a baby back neck
  - Actually for size 3 (6-9m), baby neck is bigger. B₀=16 is reasonable.
  - N = (46-16)/2 = 15 rounds; yoke = 30 rnds = 5" — target was 4.25". Too deep.
  - Let me reduce back to 44: N = (44-16)/2 = 14 rounds; yoke = 28 rnds = 4.67" — closer but still over.
  - Use B₀ = 18: N = (44-18)/2 = 13 rounds; yoke = 26 rnds = 4.3" ≈ 4.25" ✅
  - F₀ = 22-13 = 9
  - CO = 52: S₀ = (52-18-18)/2 = 16/2 = **8 sts**
  - After 13 rounds: Sleeve = 8+26=34 sts; Back=44; Front each=22
  - Total: 9+8+18 → After 13 rnds: 22+34+44+34+22 = **156** → 52+13×8=52+104=**156** ✅
  - Body = 22+44+22 = 88 + 8 = **96 sts** → 96/4.5 = **21.3"** (targeting 22" — off by ~0.7")
  
  Hmm. Let me try with back=46, front each=23:
  - B₀=18: N=(46-18)/2=14; yoke=28 rnds=4.67" (vs target 4.25")
  - B₀=20: N=(46-20)/2=13; yoke=4.3" ≈ 4.25" ✅
  - F₀=23-13=10; CO=52: S₀=(52-20-20)/2=12/2=6 sts — only 6 starting sleeve sts
  - After 13 rnds: Sleeve=6+26=32 sts; Front=23; Back=46
  - Body=23+46+23=92+8=**100 sts** → 100/4.5=**22.2"** ✅ 
  - Total: 10+6+20+(13×8)=52+104=**156** ✅ (10+32+46+32+10=130... wait that's wrong)
  - After 13 rounds: Front each = 10+13=23 ✅; Back=20+26=46 ✅; Sleeve=6+26=32 ✅
  - Total: 23+32+46+32+23=**156** ✅

**SIZE 4 (9-12m): Target 23" chest = 103.5 → use 104 sts, yoke target 4.25"**
  - Target body = 104 sts
  - Body from yoke = 96; each panel = 48; each front half = 24
  - Target yoke: 4.25" = 25.5 rnds → use 26 rnds = 13 increase rounds OR 24 rnds = 12 rounds + 2 plain
  - B₀ + 2N = 48:
    - N=13: B₀=48-26=22 → too many for neck
    - N=14: B₀=48-28=20; F₀=24-14=10; CO=54: S₀=(54-20-20)/2=14/2=7; After 14 rnds: Sl=7+28=35; Body=24+48+24=96+8=**104** ✅; Yoke=28 rnds=4.67" (slightly over target)
    - N=12 + work 1-2 extra plain rnds: B₀=48-24=24 → F₀=24-12=12; CO=54: S₀=(54-24-24)/2=6/2=3 — only 3 sleeve sts. Terrible.
  - Let's use N=14 and accept yoke depth of ~4.7" (within reasonable range for 9-12m):
    - B₀=20; F₀=10; S₀=7; CO=54
    - After 14 rnds: Front=24; Back=48; Sleeve=35
    - Total=24+35+48+35+24=**166** → 54+14×8=54+112=**166** ✅
    - Body=24+48+24=96+8=**104** ✅; 104/4.5=23.1" ✅

**SIZE 5 (12-18m): Target 24" chest = 108 sts, yoke target 4.5"**
  - Body from yoke = 100; each panel = 50; each front half = 25
  - Target yoke: 4.5"=27 rnds → use 28 rnds=14 increase rounds
  - N=14: B₀=50-28=22; F₀=25-14=11; CO=56: S₀=(56-22-22)/2=12/2=6; Sl after 14=6+28=34; Body=25+50+25=100+8=**108** ✅; Yoke=28 rnds=4.67" ≈ 4.5" ✅
  - Total: 11+6+22+(14×8)=56+112=**168** → 11+34+50+34+11=**140**... wait
  - After 14 rnds: Front=11+14=25 ✅; Back=22+28=50 ✅; Sleeve=6+28=34 ✅
  - Total=25+34+50+34+25=**168** ✅ (56+112=168 ✅)
  - Body=25+50+25=100+8=**108** ✅; 108/4.5=24" ✅

**SIZE 6 (18-24m): Target 25" chest = 112 sts, yoke target 4.5"**
  - Body from yoke = 104; each panel = 52; each front half = 26
  - Target yoke: 4.5"=27 rnds → use 28 rnds=14 rounds
  - N=14: B₀=52-28=24; F₀=26-14=12; CO=58: S₀=(58-24-24)/2=10/2=5; Sl after 14=5+28=33; Body=26+52+26=104+8=**112** ✅; Yoke=28 rnds=4.67" ✅
  - Total: 12+5+24+(14×8)=58+112=**170** → 12+33+52+33+12=**142**... 
  - After 14 rnds: Front=12+14=26 ✅; Back=24+28=52 ✅; Sleeve=5+28=33 ✅
  - Total=26+33+52+33+26=**170** ✅ (58+112=170 ✅)
  - Body=26+52+26=104+8=**112** ✅; 112/4.5=24.9"≈25" ✅

**GREAT! Now let me compile the clean table:**

| | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 | Size 6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CO total | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
| Back start (B₀) | 12 | 16 | 20 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| Front each start (F₀) | 6 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| Sleeve each start (S₀) | 12 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 6 | 5 |
| Increase rounds (N) | 12 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 14 | 14 |
| Total sts after increases | 144 | 146 | 156 | 166 | 168 | 170 |
| Front each at sep | 18 | 20 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| Back at sep | 36 | 40 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| Sleeve each at sep | 36 | 33 | 32 | 35 | 34 | 33 |
| Body sts (incl. underarm CO) | 80 | 88 | 100 | 104 | 108 | 112 |
| Finished chest | 17.8" | 19.6" | 22.2" | 23.1" | 24" | 24.9" |
| Yoke depth (rnds) | 24 | 24 | 26 | 28 | 28 | 28 |
| Yoke depth (inches) | 4" | 4" | 4.3" | 4.7" | 4.7" | 4.7" |

Hmm, sizes 4-6 have yoke depth of 4.7" vs target 4.25-4.5". This is close enough given that these are approximate targets, but let me see if I can get better alignment for sizes 4 and 5.

For size 4 (target 4.25"): reduce N to 13 rounds. N=13: B₀=48-26=22; F₀=24-13=11; CO=54: S₀=(54-22-22)/2=10/2=5; Sleeve after 13=5+26=31; Body=24+48+24=96+8=**104** ✅; Yoke=26 rnds=4.33" ≈ 4.25" ✅ (better!)

Update size 4: N=13, B₀=22, F₀=11, S₀=5; Sleeve at sep=31; Total=24+31+48+31+24=**158** → 54+13×8=54+104=**158** ✅

For size 5 (target 4.5"): N=14 gives 4.67". Use N=13 + 1 plain round between each increase: same sts but more rows. OR: N=13: B₀=50-26=24; F₀=25-13=12; CO=56: S₀=(56-24-24)/2=8/2=4; Sleeve=4+26=30; Yoke=26 rnds=4.33" — now too shallow. 

For size 5, stick with N=14 and note "work even until yoke measures 4.5"" (adding 1 plain round at end).

For size 6 (target 4.5"): N=14 giving 4.67" — similar, add note to measure. OR N=13: B₀=52-26=26; F₀=26-13=13; CO=58: S₀=(58-26-26)/2=6/2=3 — only 3 sleeve sts is too few.

So sizes 5-6 will use N=14 increase rounds + instruction to "work even until yoke measures 4.5"" before separating.

**REVISED FINAL TABLE:**

| | S1 (0-3m) | S2 (3-6m) | S3 (6-9m) | S4 (9-12m) | S5 (12-18m) | S6 (18-24m) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cast-on | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
| Back start | 12 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 24 |
| Front each start | 6 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 |
| Sleeve each start | 12 | 9 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| Increase rounds | 12 | 12 | 13 | 13 | 14 | 14 |
| Front each at sep | 18 | 20 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| Back at sep | 36 | 40 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| Sleeve each at sep | 36 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 34 | 33 |
| Body sts total | 80 | 88 | 100 | 104 | 108 | 112 |
| Finished chest | 17.8" | 19.6" | 22.2" | 23.1" | 24" | 24.9" |

Check total sts after increases:
- S1: 48+96=144; check: 18+36+36+36+18=**144** ✅
- S2: 50+96=146; check: 20+33+40+33+20=**146** ✅
- S3: 52+104=156; check: 23+32+46+32+23=**156** ✅
- S4: 54+104=158; check: 24+31+48+31+24=**158** ✅
- S5: 56+112=168; check: 25+34+50+34+25=**168** ✅
- S6: 58+112=170; check: 26+33+52+33+26=**170** ✅ ALL CORRECT!

Wait, I had for size 5: N=14, B₀=22, F₀=11, S₀=6. Let me re-verify:
- Front each at sep = 11+14=25 ✅
- Back at sep = 22+28=50 ✅
- Sleeve at sep = 6+28=34 ✅
- Total: 25+34+50+34+25=168; 56+112=168 ✅
- Body: 25+50+25=100+8=108; 108/4.5=24" ✅

And size 6: N=14, B₀=24, F₀=12, S₀=5. Sleeve = 5+28=33 ✅

Now for the flat section worked during the placket: I said we work flat for the first portion. Since the pattern needs to be beginner-friendly, let me define a SIMPLE flat section:

**Flat section:** Work 5 increase rows (flat) before joining. After 5 flat increase rows: sts = CO + 5×8 = CO + 40.

Then in-the-round increase rounds = N - 5 for each size:
- S1: 12-5 = 7 in-round increase rounds
- S2: 12-5 = 7
- S3: 13-5 = 8  
- S4: 13-5 = 8
- S5: 14-5 = 9
- S6: 14-5 = 9

After joining: sts = CO + 40
- S1: 88; S2: 90; S3: 92; S4: 94; S5: 96; S6: 98

Then work increase rounds in the round for remaining N-5 rounds.

Actually, for simplicity and beginner-friendliness, let me reduce the flat section to just 3 rows (for the neckband and placket), then join and work all remaining increase rounds in the round. The placket overlap will simply be folded and sewn. This is simpler:

**Flat section: 3 increase rows** (+ neckband rows = 6 rows total flat, 3 of which are increase rows)

After 3 flat increase rows: sts = CO + 24

Then in-round increases = N - 3:
- S1: 9; S2: 9; S3: 10; S4: 10; S5: 11; S6: 11

This creates a ~½" flat section (6 rows flat) which is perfect for a short placket.

Hmm, but the placket needs to be long enough for 3 buttons that are accessible. 3 buttons on a ½" section won't work. Buttons are typically ½-¾" apart minimum.

**Revised plan: Longer flat section.** Work flat for 1.5" (about 9 rows = 4-5 increase rows in the flat section). This gives enough placket length for 3 buttons.

Let me use 5 flat increase rows (as originally planned):
- Flat increases: 5 rows
- Neckband rows: ~4-6 rows (work rib or garter for neckband before increases)
- Total flat rows before join: ~10-11 rows ≈ ~1.5-2" ← good for 3 buttons

**SIMPLIFICATION FOR BEGINNER PATTERN:**
Rather than making the math overly complex, I will:
1. Work neckband (6 rows flat = ~1")
2. Work 5 raglan increase rows flat (10 rows ÷ 6 = ~1.7" more)
3. Total flat section ≈ 2.5-3" ← gives room for 3 evenly-spaced buttons
4. Join and complete remaining increases in the round

The buttonholes: 3 total. Space them: 1 in neckband, 1 in middle of flat increase section, 1 at bottom of flat section.

OK, I think I have enough information to write the complete pattern now. Let me compile everything cleanly for the actual pattern. I'll present the stitch counts in clear tables and write straightforward beginner instructions.

**SLEEVE DECREASES:**

Sleeve sts at separation (before underarm pickup):
- S1: 36; S2: 33; S3: 32; S4: 31; S5: 34; S6: 33

After picking up underarm sts (I'll have knitters pick up ~4 sts from the underarm CO for each sleeve):
- S1: 36+4=40; S2: 33+4=37; S3: 32+4=36; S4: 31+4=35; S5: 34+4=38; S6: 33+4=37

For a cute short-sleeved top or 3/4 sleeve effect — actually the request says "top" not "sweater." **Re-reading the request: "baby girl cute top."** A TOP likely means a shorter garment — more like a tunic top or perhaps even a short-sleeved top? The template is for a pullover. Let me make this a cute **short-sleeve pullover top** (which is appropriate for a baby girl top and the template calls for a pullover).

For short sleeves on a baby: sleeve length ~2-3". With minimal decreasing needed.

Actually — for a TOP, I'll keep some sleeve length but make it a "short puff sleeve" style for cuteness. Work sleeve even for 1.5" then do a little gathering decrease round, then 0.5" of cuff rib. Total sleeve ≈ 2-2.5". This is very cute for a baby girl top!

OR simply: work sleeve straight (no decreases) for 1.5" then 0.5" rib = 2" total sleeve. Adorable.

**For a CUTE BABY GIRL TOP:** Let's do cap/puff sleeves! Work straight for 1", then bind off for a short puffed sleeve look. Super cute.

But since we're working in the round and starting from the top, a "puff" would mean binding off loosely. Let me just do short sleeves: work even for 1.5" then rib 0.5" then BO.

No decreases needed for short sleeves — much simpler for beginners!

For the body, I'll still include the eyelet row for a cute feminine touch.

Now let me compile the FINAL clean stitch counts and write the pattern:

**FINAL STITCH COUNT SUMMARY:**

| | S1 | S2 | S3 | S4 | S5 | S6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Neckline CO** | **48** | **50** | **52** | **54** | **56** | **58** |
| Back (B₀) | 12 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 24 |
| Front each (F₀) | 6 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 |
| Sleeve each (S₀) | 12 | 9 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| Flat increase rows | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| **Sts after flat section** | **88** | **90** | **92** | **94** | **96** | **98** |
| In-round increase rounds | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 |
| **Total increase rounds** | **12** | **12** | **13** | **13** | **14** | **14** |
| **Total sts at underarm** | **144** | **146** | **156** | **158** | **168** | **170** |
| Front each at sep | 18 | 20 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| Back at sep | 36 | 40 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| Sleeve each at sep | 36 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 34 | 33 |
| **Sleeve sts (w/ underarm pickup)** | **40** | **37** | **36** | **35** | **38** | **37** |
| **Body sts in rnd** | **80** | **88** | **100** | **104** | **108** | **112** |
| Finished chest | ~17.8" | ~19.6" | ~22.2" | ~23.1" | ~24" | ~24.9" |

For the body: instead of 4 underarm CO sts (giving +8 total), I note that I could vary the underarm CO to better hit the targets. But let's keep it simple and consistent at 4 sts per side (8 total).

Now let me adjust the displayed "Finished Measurements" table to match these actual numbers:

| Size | Finished Chest | 
|---|---|
| 1 (0-3m) | 17¾" (45 cm) |
| 2 (3-6m) | 19½" (50 cm) |
| 3 (6-9m) | 22¼" (57 cm) |
| 4 (9-12m) | 23" (58 cm) |
| 5 (12-18m) | 24" (61 cm) |
| 6 (18-24m) | 24¾" (63 cm) |

These are close to the 16-22" baby sizing guide. The 2" ease works out:
- Actual baby chest for 0-3m = ~16" → finished = 17¾" = ~1.75" ease ✅
- Actual baby chest for 3-6m = ~18" → finished = 19½" = ~1.5" ease ✅
- etc.

**BODY LENGTH:**
For a "top" (not a full sweater), I'll make the body slightly shorter than a full sweater:
- S1: 4½" (underarm to hem); S2: 5"; S3: 5½"; S4: 6"; S5: 6½"; S6: 7"
Including 1" of ribbing at hem.

**SLEEVE LENGTH:**
Short sleeve (cap sleeve) for a cute top look:
- All sizes: 1.5" of sleeve + 0.5" of rib = **2" total sleeve length**
This is consistent and cute for a baby girl top.

Perfect — now I have everything I need to write the final pattern. Let me write it cleanly.

One more thing — the **eyelet row** for feminine detail:
After completing the body ribbing OR as a decorative element before ribbing:
**Eyelet Round:** *K2tog, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
Work this 1 round, then work 4 rounds of k1, p1 rib, then BO.

This creates a lovely eyelet edge that looks like little scallops — very cute and completely beginner-friendly!

Similarly for sleeve cuffs.

I'm now confident in all numbers and can write the final pattern:

---

Now writing the actual clean pattern:

---

**NECKBAND NOTES:**
- Work neckband in k1, p1 rib for 6 rows (flat)
- Buttonholes: Row 1: k2, *yo, k2tog,* work to last 4 sts, *ssk, yo,* k2 (2 buttonholes at edges)
- Continue ribs for 4 more rows
- Row 6 (third buttonhole): same as row 1

Actually, 3 buttonholes need to be placed along the placket. Since the placket is ~1.5-2" long, and the neckband is 6 rows ≈ 1", and the flat increase section is 5 increase rows (= 10 rows ≈ 1.7"), the total flat section = ~16 rows ≈ 2.7". Buttons spaced at rows 2, 8, and 14 (approximately every 6 rows = ~1" apart). For 3 buttons of ½" diameter, spacing of 1" is perfectly appropriate.

OK — I have everything. Let me write the final pattern now. I'll be concise but complete in the instructions.

---

**Note on the neckband and flat work:** For true beginner-friendliness, I'll use a simple approach:
- Neckband: 6 rows of k1, p1 rib (flat)
- Buttonholes made in rows 2 and 6 of the neckband (2 buttonholes in neckband area)
- Switch to larger needles, work 5 flat raglan increase rows with 1 final buttonhole on row 9 of the flat section
- Join and work in the round

Wait — with the flat neckband AND flat increase section, I have:
- Rows 1-6: Neckband rib (with 2 buttonholes at rows 2 and 6)
- Rows 7-16: Flat increase section (5 increase rows + 5 plain rows, with 1 buttonhole at row ~11)
- Total flat: ~16 rows ≈ 2.7"

This gives 3 nicely spaced buttonholes. 

**FINAL NOTE:** All 3 buttonholes are on the LEFT back panel edge (from RS perspective, the leftmost stitches), and the button side is the RIGHT back panel edge. Wait — both ends of the needle = both edges of the back split = this IS the back center split. So one button/hole is at each end of the needle with one more in the middle. Specifically for a back placket:
- The RIGHT end of the needle = Left Back edge (as worn) 
- The LEFT end of the needle = Right Back edge (as worn)
- Buttonholes on one side, buttons on the other — but since we're knitting the same piece, I put buttonholes at BOTH ends of the needle for symmetry during construction, then one overlap goes over the other when sewing down. The buttonholes from both ends happen to be on the same "overlap" piece.

Actually for a back placket: the two edges overlap. The top layer (with buttonholes) overlaps the bottom layer (with buttons sewn on). When working flat, buttonholes can be placed at either edge — they'll be cut to be on one side of the overlap.

**SIMPLIFICATION:** I'll put buttonholes at one edge only (the last few stitches of each RS row) and sew buttons on the other edge during finishing. This is cleaner and more beginner-friendly.

**Buttonhole placement:**
- RS Rows: Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2.
- Place buttonholes on rows 2, 8, and 14 of the flat section (approximately every 6 rows).

OK I think I've spent way too long on the planning. Let me just write the pattern now using these verified numbers.

**ABSOLUTE FINAL KEY NUMBERS:**

| | S1 | S2 | S3 | S4 | S5 | S6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cast-on | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
| Flat raglan rows | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| In-rnd raglan rnds | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 |
| Total sts at sep | 144 | 146 | 156 | 158 | 168 | 170 |
| Front each at sep | 18 | 20 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| Back at sep | 36 | 40 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| Sleeve each at sep | 36 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 34 | 33 |
| Body sts | 80 | 88 | 100 | 104 | 108 | 112 |
| Sleeve sts (+ 4 pickup) | 40 | 37 | 36 | 35 | 38 | 37 |

VERIFIED: All cross-checks pass. Writing pattern now.

<pattern>

---

# 🌸 ROSEBUD RAGLAN
## A Top-Down Seamless Baby Girl Pullover Top

---

*A sweet little pullover top worked seamlessly from the neck down, with a back button placket for fuss-free dressing and a pretty eyelet trim at the hem and cuffs. Short sleeves make this perfect for layering or wearing all on its own. Beginner-friendly construction — if you can knit, purl, and increase, you can make this!*

---

## SIZES

**Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6)**
**Fits:** 0–3 months (3–6 months, 6–9 months, 9–12 months, 12–18 months, 18–24 months)

> **Choosing your size:** This pattern has approximately 1½–2" of positive ease for a comfortable fit. Select the size closest to baby's actual chest measurement, or size up if you'd like more growing room.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 | Size 6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Fits Age** | 0–3 mos | 3–6 mos | 6–9 mos | 9–12 mos | 12–18 mos | 18–24 mos |
| **Chest Circumference** | 17¾" (45 cm) | 19½" (50 cm) | 22¼" (57 cm) | 23" (58 cm) | 24" (61 cm) | 24¾" (63 cm) |
| **Body Length** *(underarm to hem, incl. ribbing)* | 4½" (11.5 cm) | 5" (13 cm) | 5½" (14 cm) | 6" (15 cm) | 6½" (16.5 cm) | 7" (18 cm) |
| **Yoke Depth** *(neck edge to underarm)* | 4" (10 cm) | 4" (10 cm) | 4¼" (11 cm) | 4¼" (11 cm) | 4½" (11.5 cm) | 4½" (11.5 cm) |
| **Sleeve Length** *(underarm to cuff, incl. ribbing)* | 2" (5 cm) | 2" (5 cm) | 2" (5 cm) | 2" (5 cm) | 2" (5 cm) | 2" (5 cm) |
| **Neck Opening** *(finished, with button placket)* | 10½" (27 cm) | 11" (28 cm) | 11½" (29 cm) | 12" (30.5 cm) | 12½" (32 cm) | 13" (33 cm) |

> **About the neck opening:** The button placket at the back makes the neck opening slightly larger when undone, so it stretches easily over baby's head.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Worsted weight (#4 Medium)
- **Recommended yardage:**

| Size | Yards | Meters |
|---|---|---|
| Size 1 (0–3m) | ~175 yds | ~160 m |
| Size 2 (3–6m) | ~210 yds | ~192 m |
| Size 3 (6–9m) | ~255 yds | ~233 m |
| Size 4 (9–12m) | ~280 yds | ~256 m |
| Size 5 (12–18m) | ~320 yds | ~293 m |
| Size 6 (18–24m) | ~360 yds | ~329 m |

> **Yarn suggestions — please choose something machine washable and very soft!**
>
> ✨ **Lion Brand Pound of Love** (100% acrylic, machine wash & dry — great value)
> ✨ **Cascade 220 Superwash** (100% superwash wool, machine wash cold)
> ✨ **Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton** (100% cotton — great for warm weather)
> ✨ **Paintbox Simply DK** *(Note: this is DK weight — if using, go down to a US 8 / 5 mm needle and re-swatch!)*
>
> 🚫 *Avoid: scratchy wool, mohair, chenille with loose pile, or anything labeled "hand wash only." Parents need easy care!*

### Needles

| Needle | Size | Length |
|---|---|---|
| Main needles (yoke & body) | US 9 / 5.5 mm | 16" (40 cm) circular |
| Alternate for body (larger sizes) | US 9 / 5.5 mm | 24" (60 cm) circular *(or magic loop)* |
| Ribbing needles | US 7 / 4.5 mm | 16" (40 cm) circular |
| Sleeve needles | US 9 / 5.5 mm | DPNs, set of 4 or 5 *(or 40" / 100 cm for magic loop)* |
| Ribbing for sleeves | US 7 / 4.5 mm | DPNs, set of 4 *(or magic loop)* |

> **No DPNs?** You can work both the sleeve and cuff on a long circular needle using the magic loop method. It works great for small circumferences!

### Notions
- 5 stitch markers: 1 unique color/style for beginning of round (BOR), 4 matching markers for raglan lines
- 2 stitch holders or lengths of scrap yarn (for holding sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and finishing
- 3 buttons, ½" (12 mm) diameter (choose something cute — flowers, hearts, stars!)
- Sharp sewing needle and thread to match yarn color (for sewing on buttons)
- Scissors

---

## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch on US 9 / 5.5 mm needles, after washing and blocking.

> ⚠️ **Please swatch!** Even being 1 stitch off per inch will make a significant size difference over the width of a garment. Knit a swatch of at least 5" × 5", wash it the same way you'll care for the finished top, let it dry flat, and then measure. Adjust needle size as needed before starting.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbrev. | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **BO** | Bind off (cast off) |
| **BOR** | Beginning of round marker |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **k** | Knit |
| **k1, p1 rib** | Alternating knit 1, purl 1 across the round or row |
| **k2tog** | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease; 1 st decreased) |
| **M1L** | Make 1 Left: lift the bar between stitches from front to back with the left needle; knit through the back loop (creates a left-leaning, nearly invisible increase) |
| **M1R** | Make 1 Right: lift the bar between stitches from back to front with the left needle; knit through the front loop (creates a right-leaning, nearly invisible increase) |
| **p** | Purl |
| **pm** | Place marker |
| **RS** | Right side (the "outside" of the fabric — the side you want people to see) |
| **rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **sm** | Slip marker (move marker from left needle to right needle as you pass it) |
| **ssk** | Slip, slip, knit: Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time to the right needle, then insert the left needle through the fronts of both slipped stitches and knit them together (left-leaning decrease; 1 st decreased) |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **WS** | Wrong side (the "inside" of the fabric) |
| **yo** | Yarn over: bring yarn to front between needles, then over the right needle to the back — creates a new stitch and a small decorative hole |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### The Raglan Increase (used throughout the yoke)

The raglan increase is worked at all 4 markers on every right-side (RS) row or every other round. It makes 8 new stitches each time it is worked.

**Formula:** *Knit to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L.* Repeat at each of the 4 markers.

**In plain English:** As you approach each raglan marker:
1. Knit until 1 stitch remains before the marker.
2. Work an M1R (right-leaning increase).
3. Knit the last stitch before the marker.
4. Slip the marker to your right needle.
5. Knit the first stitch after the marker.
6. Work an M1L (left-leaning increase).
7. Continue to the next marker and repeat.

Do this at all 4 markers = 8 stitches added per raglan increase row/round.

### Buttonhole (yo, k2tog)

A simple 1-stitch eyelet buttonhole:

When the pattern says "work a buttonhole," work to the specified position, then: **yo, k2tog** — this creates a small hole that a button fits through. The yarn over adds back the stitch that k2tog removed, so the stitch count stays the same.

### Eyelet Round (decorative trim)

*K2tog, yo; repeat from * to end of round.

This creates a row of small, evenly-spaced holes that look like little scallops — sweet and feminine! The stitch count remains the same (every k2tog decrease is paired with a yo increase).

> ⚠️ **For eyelet round:** make sure your stitch count is an even number before working this round. See individual sections for confirmation.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction at a Glance:** You'll start at the back neckline, work flat (back and forth) to create a short button placket, then join and work the yoke in the round with raglan increases. At the underarms, sleeve stitches are set aside, the body is worked in the round down to the hem, and then sleeves are picked up and worked in the round to the cuffs.

2. **Reading Size Instructions:** Throughout the pattern, instructions are given as: **Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6)**. Where there is only one number, it applies to all sizes. Highlight or circle your size before beginning.

3. **Yarn Care:** Always follow your yarn label. Most superwash wool and acrylic options: machine wash cold, gentle cycle; lay flat to dry or tumble dry low.

4. **Measuring Yoke Depth:** After the flat section is joined, measure the yoke from the back neck cast-on edge to your needle, along the back (not the front, and not along the diagonal raglan line). This is the most accurate way to gauge when to separate sleeves.

5. **Stitch Marker Colors:** Using 4 matching markers for the raglan lines and 1 unique marker (a different color, or a locking marker) for the BOR will save you a lot of confusion. The BOR marker sits at the start of the Left Front section after joining.

---

## MASTER STITCH COUNT CHART

*This chart shows exactly how many stitches you should have at key points. Check your work against this chart as you go!*

| Checkpoint | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 | Size 6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **A. Neckline cast-on** | **48** | **50** | **52** | **54** | **56** | **58** |
| — Back (B₀) | 12 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 24 |
| — Each Front (F₀) | 6 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 |
| — Each Sleeve (S₀) | 12 | 9 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| **B. After 5 flat raglan rows** | **88** | **90** | **92** | **94** | **96** | **98** |
| **C. In-the-round increase rounds to work** | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 |
| **D. Total sts at underarm separation** | **144** | **146** | **156** | **158** | **168** | **170** |
| — Each Front at separation | 18 | 20 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| — Back at separation | 36 | 40 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| — Each Sleeve at separation | 36 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 34 | 33 |
| **E. Body sts in the round** *(after underarm CO)* | **80** | **88** | **100** | **104** | **108** | **112** |
| **F. Sleeve sts in the round** *(after underarm pickup)* | **40** | **37** | **36** | **35** | **38** | **37** |

> **Math verification (all sizes):**
> - Total sts at separation = CO + (total raglan increase rounds × 8)
>   - S1: 48 + (12 × 8) = 48 + 96 = **144** ✅
>   - S2: 50 + (12 × 8) = 50 + 96 = **146** ✅
>   - S3: 52 + (13 × 8) = 52 + 104 = **156** ✅
>   - S4: 54 + (13 × 8) = 54 + 104 = **158** ✅
>   - S5: 56 + (14 × 8) = 56 + 112 = **168** ✅
>   - S6: 58 + (14 × 8) = 58 + 112 = **170** ✅
> - Body sts = (Front × 2) + Back + (4 underarm CO × 2):
>   - S1: (18×2) + 36 + 8 = 36+36+8 = **80** ✅
>   - S2: (20×2) + 40 + 8 = 40+40+8 = **88** ✅
>   - S3: (23×2) + 46 + 8 = 46+46+8 = **100** ✅
>   - S4: (24×2) + 48 + 8 = 48+48+8 = **104** ✅
>   - S5: (25×2) + 50 + 8 = 50+50+8 = **108** ✅
>   - S6: (26×2) + 52 + 8 = 52+52+8 = **112** ✅

---

## THE PATTERN

---

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND

**Using smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), and the long-tail cast on**, CO **48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts**. Do not join. Leave a 6" (15 cm) tail for weaving in later.

**Set-up Row (WS — this is the first row you work after casting on):**

Purl while placing markers as follows:
P **6 (8, 10, 11, 11, 12)** [Right Front], pm, p **12 (9, 6, 5, 6, 5)** [Right Sleeve], pm, p **12 (16, 20, 22, 22, 24)** [Back], pm, p **12 (9, 6, 5, 6, 5)** [Left Sleeve], pm, p **6 (8, 10, 11, 11, 12)** [Left Front].

> **Check:** Count your stitches: Right Front + Right Sleeve + Back + Left Sleeve + Left Front = **48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58)** ✅

**Neckband Rows (work flat in k1, p1 rib):**

- **Neckband Row 1 (RS — First Buttonhole Row):** K1, p1 to last 3 sts, **yo, k2tog, k1**. *(Buttonhole #1 made at the end of the row)*
- **Neckband Row 2 (WS):** K1, p1 rib to end.
- **Neckband Row 3 (RS):** K1, p1 rib to end.
- **Neckband Row 4 (WS):** K1, p1 rib to end.
- **Neckband Row 5 (RS — Second Buttonhole Row):** K1, p1 to last 3 sts, **yo, k2tog, k1**. *(Buttonhole #2 made)*
- **Neckband Row 6 (WS):** K1, p1 rib to end.

You have completed the neckband. You still have **48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts**.

> **The buttonhole edge:** Both buttonholes sit at the same end of the needle. When you finish the garment, this edge will be the TOP layer of the back placket overlap (the buttonhole side). The buttons will be sewn onto the other edge underneath.

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE — WORKED FLAT

**Switch to larger needles (US 9 / 5.5 mm).** You will continue working FLAT for this section.

**The Raglan Increase Row and Plain Row pattern:**

> **Raglan Increase Row (RS):** Knit to 1 st before first marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; *knit to 1 st before next marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * to * for each of the remaining 3 markers. Knit to end of row. **[8 sts increased]**
>
> **Plain Row (WS):** Purl all stitches across.

Work the **Raglan Increase Row** followed by the **Plain Row** 4 times (4 sets = 8 rows total = 4 raglan increase rows worked).

After 4 raglan increase rows, you have: **80 (82, 84, 86, 88, 90) sts**.

> **Checkpoint:** Front each = **10 (12, 14, 15, 15, 16)** / Sleeve each = **16 (13, 10, 9, 10, 9)** / Back = **20 (24, 28, 30, 30, 32)**
> Sum: 10+16+20+16+10 = **72**... + 8 from cast-on sections... Hmm.
>
> Let me recount: After 4 increase rows: Each Front = F₀ + 4 = 6+4=10 (S1) ✅; Back = B₀ + 8 = 12+8=20 (S1) ✅; Each Sleeve = S₀ + 8 = 12+8=20 (S1) ✅. 
> Total: 10+20+20+20+10 = **80** ✅ (Size 1)
>
> Full check: 10 (12, 14, 15, 15, 16) + 20 (17, 14, 13, 14, 13) + 20 (24, 28, 30, 30, 32) + 20 (17, 14, 13, 14, 13) + 10 (12, 14, 15, 15, 16) = 80 (82, 84, 86, 88, 90) ✅

Now work the **5th Raglan Increase Row with the third buttonhole:**

- **Flat Raglan Row 5 (Third Buttonhole Row, RS):** Knit to 1 st before first marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; *knit to 1 st before next marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * at all 4 markers; knit to last 3 sts, **yo, k2tog, k1**. *(Buttonhole #3 made)* **[8 sts increased]**
- **Plain Row (WS):** Purl all stitches across.

You have now worked **5 flat Raglan Increase Rows**.

> **Stitch count checkpoint B (5 flat increase rows done):**
> You should have **88 (90, 92, 94, 96, 98) sts**:
> - Each Front = **11 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17)**
> - Each Sleeve = **22 (19, 16, 15, 16, 15)**
> - Back = **22 (26, 30, 32, 32, 34)**
> - Sum (S1): 11+22+22+22+11 = **88** ✅
> - Sum (S2): 13+19+26+19+13 = **90** ✅
> - Sum (S3): 15+16+30+16+15 = **92** ✅
> - Sum (S4): 16+15+32+15+16 = **94** ✅
> - Sum (S5): 16+16+32+16+16 = **96** ✅
> - Sum (S6): 17+15+34+15+17 = **98** ✅

> **Placket height check:** You have worked 6 neckband rows + 10 raglan rows (flat) = 16 rows total. At 6 rows/inch, this is approximately **2.5–2.7"** of flat section. Your 3 buttonholes are spaced roughly evenly through this height. ✅

---

### SECTION 3: JOIN FOR WORKING IN THE ROUND

You will now join the work to knit in the round. The back placket will overlap slightly and be sewn down in finishing.

**Joining Round (RS):**

1. Work the Raglan Increase Row across all stitches as before (working M1R/k1/sm/k1/M1L at all 4 markers). At the end of the row, instead of turning your work, **fold the back edges** so that the buttonhole edge (the edge with the 3 buttonholes you just made) overlaps on top of the plain edge by about ½" (1.5 cm). Use a safety pin to temporarily hold the overlap in place.

2. Continue knitting the first cast-on stitch (this joins the work into a round). Place your **unique BOR marker** here.

3. You have now worked your **6th Raglan Increase Round** and joined for working in the round.

> **Stitch count after joining (6 total raglan increase rounds):**
> **94 (96, 98, 100, 102, 104) sts**
> *(This is: previous count + 8 from the joining increase round)*
> - S1: 88+6=94? No: 88 (after 5 flat) + 8 (joining = 6th increase rnd) = **96**. Hmm — let me recount.
> 
> Wait: After 5 flat increase rows = checkpoint B = 88 (90, 92, 94, 96, 98) sts. The joining round is the 6th increase round: +8 sts. So after joining:
> - S1: 88+8 = **96 sts** (6 increase rounds done, 6 remaining to reach 12 total)
> - S2: 90+8 = **98 sts** (6 done, 6 remaining)
> - S3: 92+8 = **100 sts** (6 done, 7 remaining)
> - S4: 94+8 = **102 sts** (6 done, 7 remaining)
> - S5: 96+8 = **104 sts** (6 done, 8 remaining)
> - S6: 98+8 = **106 sts** (6 done, 8 remaining)

> **Revised in-the-round count (to reach total increase rounds):**
> - S1 & S2: Need 12 total. 6 done in flat. 6 more in-the-round.
> - S3 & S4: Need 13 total. 6 done in flat. 7 more in-the-round.
> - S5 & S6: Need 14 total. 6 done in flat. 8 more in-the-round.
>
> *(The Master Chart listed 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9 rounds for "in-the-round" — that was counting only rounds AFTER joining, excluding the joining round itself. The joining round is increase round #6, so total in-the-round rounds = 6 + those in the master chart... Let me update the master chart accordingly.)*

> **NOTE:** I will update the Master Stitch Count Chart instructions in the final pattern to say: "After joining (= increase round 6), work X more increase rounds in the round:" where X = 6 (S1&S2), 7 (S3&S4), 8 (S5&S6). This is cleaner.

---

*[Rewriting Section 3 cleanly in the final pattern below]*

---

### SECTION 4: YOKE — WORKED IN THE ROUND

The yoke is now worked in the round. You will continue working Raglan Increase Rounds (now called "Increase Rounds"), alternating with plain knit rounds.

**Increase Round:** *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L;* repeat from * at all 4 markers. Knit to BOR. **[8 sts increased]**

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

Work **[Increase Round, Plain Round]** for the number of times shown for your size:

| Size | Additional increase rounds after joining | Total increase rounds (flat + in-rnd) |
|------|-------|------|
| Size 1 (0–3m) | **6 more** | 12 total |
| Size 2 (3–6m) | **6 more** | 12 total |
| Size 3 (6–9m) | **7 more** | 13 total |
| Size 4 (9–12m) | **7 more** | 13 total |
| Size 5 (12–18m) | **8 more** | 14 total |
| Size 6 (18–24m) | **8 more** | 14 total |

> **Stitch count checkpoint D — total sts at end of yoke (all increase rounds complete):**
> - Size 1: **144 sts** — Front each = 18 / Sleeve each = 36 / Back = 36 — check: 18+36+36+36+18 = **144** ✅
> - Size 2: **146 sts** — Front each = 20 / Sleeve each = 33 / Back = 40 — check: 20+33+40+33+20 = **146** ✅
> - Size 3: **156 sts** — Front each = 23 / Sleeve each = 32 / Back = 46 — check: 23+32+46+32+23 = **156** ✅
> - Size 4: **158 sts** — Front each = 24 / Sleeve each = 31 / Back = 48 — check: 24+31+48+31+24 = **158** ✅
> - Size 5: **168 sts** — Front each = 25 / Sleeve each = 34 / Back = 50 — check: 25+34+50+34+25 = **168** ✅
> - Size 6: **170 sts** — Front each = 26 / Sleeve each = 33 / Back = 52 — check: 26+33+52+33+26 = **170** ✅

**Measure your yoke:** Before separating for sleeves, measure the yoke depth from the back neck cast-on edge to your needle. It should measure approximately:
- Sizes 1–2: **4" (10 cm)**
- Sizes 3–4: **4¼" (11 cm)**
- Sizes 5–6: **4½" (11.5 cm)**

*If your yoke is slightly too shallow:* Work 1–2 additional plain rounds (no increases) until you reach the target measurement.
*If your yoke is slightly too deep:* Don't worry — a slight variation in yoke depth is normal and won't affect the finished fit significantly.

---

### SECTION 5: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

On the next round, you will place the sleeve stitches onto holders and cast on underarm stitches to join the body into a tube.

**Separation Round:**

Work as follows, removing all markers as you encounter them:

1. **Knit** across the **Right Front** sts: knit **18 (20, 23, 24, 25, 26) sts**.
2. **Place Sleeve on hold:** Remove marker. Transfer the next **36 (33, 32, 31, 34, 33) sts** (Right Sleeve) onto a stitch holder or a length of scrap yarn. Remove the next marker. Do NOT cut the yarn.
3. **Cast on underarm sts:** Using the backward loop cast-on (or cable cast-on), cast on **4 sts** onto the right needle. These bridge the gap between the front and back.
4. **Knit across the Back:** Knit **36 (40, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts**. Remove markers on each side of the back as you pass them.
5. **Place Sleeve on hold:** Transfer the next **36 (33, 32, 31, 34, 33) sts** (Left Sleeve) onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Remove the marker.
6. **Cast on underarm sts:** Cast on **4 sts** for the left underarm.
7. **Knit across the Left Front:** Knit **18 (20, 23, 24, 25, 26) sts** to the BOR marker.

**Remove the BOR marker.** Your new beginning of round is at the start of the Right Front (the beginning of the body round). **Re-place the BOR marker here.**

> **Body stitch count checkpoint E:**
> Right Front + 4 underarm CO + Back + 4 underarm CO + Left Front
> - S1: 18+4+36+4+18 = **80 sts** ✅ (80 ÷ 4.5 sts/in = 17.8" chest circumference)
> - S2: 20+4+40+4+20 = **88 sts** ✅ (88 ÷ 4.5 = 19.6")
> - S3: 23+4+46+4+23 = **100 sts** ✅ (100 ÷ 4.5 = 22.2")
> - S4: 24+4+48+4+24 = **104 sts** ✅ (104 ÷ 4.5 = 23.1")
> - S5: 25+4+50+4+25 = **108 sts** ✅ (108 ÷ 4.5 = 24")
> - S6: 26+4+52+4+26 = **112 sts** ✅ (112 ÷ 4.5 = 24.9")

---

### SECTION 6: BODY

The body is now worked in the round from the underarm down to the hem.

**Working yarn** is already attached. Make sure your BOR marker is in place.

**Body Setup Round:** Knit all **80 (88, 100, 104, 108, 112) sts**.

> **Note about the underarm cast-on stitches:** The 4 sts you cast on at each underarm may feel a little loose or gappy at first. This is normal! They will close up as you knit a few rounds and will be nearly invisible after blocking.

**Work even in stockinette (knit every round) until body measures:**
- Size 1: **3½" (9 cm)** from underarm
- Size 2: **4" (10 cm)** from underarm
- Size 3: **4½" (11.5 cm)** from underarm
- Size 4: **5" (13 cm)** from underarm
- Size 5: **5½" (14 cm)** from underarm
- Size 6: **6" (15 cm)** from underarm

*(Total body length including ribbing will be 4½" / 5" / 5½" / 6" / 6½" / 7")*

---

### EYELET HEM TRIM

> **Stitch count check:** Your body stitch count should be **even** (divisible by 2) before working the eyelet round.
> - S1: 80 sts — even ✅ | S2: 88 — even ✅ | S3: 100 — even ✅ | S4: 104 — even ✅ | S5: 108 — even ✅ | S6: 112 — even ✅

**Eyelet Round:** *K2tog, yo;* repeat from * to * to end of round. **[Stitch count unchanged]**

Work **1 plain knit round** after the eyelet round.

---

### H