purlJam

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# 🛍️ Scrunchie Market Bag
### Inspired by the Loupy Studios Scrunchie Bag Style

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## About This Pattern

This fun and functional bag combines the stretch of a classic mesh market tote with the signature gathered scrunchie top made famous by Loupy Studios. The ruched ruffle frames the drawstring opening, the open mesh body carries your farmers market finds with ease, and the long drawstring cord doubles as a shoulder strap or wristlet. Worked in the round from the bottom up, this is a satisfying weekend project for any crocheter who knows the basics.

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## Skill Level
🟢 **Easy**

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## Materials

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn (MC)** | Worsted weight cotton, approx. 250 yards (229 m) — *shown in ecru* |
| **Yarn (CC)** | Worsted weight cotton, approx. 70 yards (64 m) — *shown in dusty rose; used for ruffle and cord* |
| **Hook** | US J-10 / 6 mm |
| **Notions** | Yarn needle, scissors, 1 stitch marker, safety pin or bodkin for threading cord |

> **Yarn Notes:** 100% cotton or a cotton-blend in worsted weight is highly recommended. Cotton has minimal stretch on its own, which helps the bag hold its shape, while the open mesh stitch provides natural give. Avoid very slippery fibers for the ruffle, as they may not hold the gathered look as well.

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## Gauge

**14 sc = 4 inches (10 cm)**
**8 rounds sc = 4 inches (10 cm)**
Using US J-10 / 6 mm hook and worsted weight cotton

> **Gauge matters for this project.** Your finished bag size will change if your gauge differs. If you get more stitches per inch than listed, try a larger hook. If you get fewer, try a smaller hook.

> **Gauge Swatch Tip:** Chain 18, sc across for 10 rows. After blocking, measure the center 14 stitches across 4 rows. Adjust hook size as needed.

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## Finished Measurements

| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| **Circumference (at widest)** | approx. 17 inches | approx. 43 cm |
| **Base diameter** | approx. 5.5 inches | approx. 14 cm |
| **Body height (excl. ruffle)** | approx. 10.5 inches | approx. 27 cm |
| **Total height (incl. ruffle)** | approx. 11.5 inches | approx. 29 cm |
| **Drawstring cord length** | approx. 60 inches | approx. 152 cm |

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## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **ch** | chain |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **hdc** | half double crochet |
| **dc** | double crochet |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **sp(s)** | space(s) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **rnd(s)** | round(s) |
| **MC** | main color |
| **CC** | contrast color |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **FLO** | front loop only |
| **RS** | right side |
| **sk** | skip |
| **( )** | work all instructions within parentheses into the same stitch or space |
| **[ ]** | work instructions within brackets the number of times indicated |
| **{ }** | stitch count at end of round |

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## Special Stitches & Techniques

**Magic Ring (MR):** Make a loop with the yarn tail crossing over the working yarn, insert hook through the loop, pull up a loop, and chain 1 to secure. Work the first round's stitches into this ring, then pull the tail to close the ring tightly.

**Mesh Stitch (used in body):** A simple, two-row-repeat open mesh worked by placing a dc into each dc from the previous round and chaining 2 over each ch-2 space. Creates a stretchy, open fabric perfect for market bags.

**Drawstring Channel:** A section of the bag where an eyelet round is sandwiched between solid sc rounds, creating a tunnel that the drawstring cord is threaded through.

**Scrunchie Ruffle:** The signature gathered top edge. Worked by placing 3 hdc into every single stitch of the final round, creating a full, ruffled edge that mimics the look of a fabric scrunchie.

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## Pattern Notes

1. The bag is worked in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.
2. The **base** (Rounds 1–10) is worked in spiral rounds of sc.
3. The **mesh body** (Rounds 11–19) is worked in joined rounds. At the start of each mesh round, chain 3 (this counts as your first dc throughout). Join each round with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
4. The **solid top band** (Rounds 20–24) is worked in joined rounds of sc. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc.
5. The **ruffle** (Round 25) is worked in a joined round of hdc.
6. Do not turn your work at the end of any round.
7. **Right side** of work always faces you.

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## Pattern Instructions

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### SECTION 1: BASE
*Worked in MC. Continuous spiral rounds. Do not join, do not ch at beginning of round. Use a stitch marker.*

**Round 1:** Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed firmly. {6 sc}

**Round 2:** Work 2 sc in each st around. {12 sc}
*(Math check: 6 sts × 2 = 12 ✓)*

**Round 3:** \[Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {18 sc}
*(Math check: 6 single sc + 6 increases = 18 ✓)*

**Round 4:** \[Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {24 sc}
*(Math check: 12 single sc + 6 increases = 24 ✓)*

**Round 5:** \[Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {30 sc}

**Round 6:** \[Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {36 sc}

**Round 7:** \[Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {42 sc}

**Round 8:** \[Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {48 sc}

**Round 9:** \[Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {54 sc}

**Round 10:** \[Sc in each of next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st\] rep 6 times. {60 sc}
*(Math check: 54 + 6 increases = 60 ✓)*

> **Measurement Check:** After Round 10, your base should measure approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) in diameter. If it measures significantly different, check your gauge and adjust hook size before continuing.

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### SECTION 2: MESH BODY
*Worked in MC. Joined rounds. Ch 3 at start of each round counts as first dc.*

**Transition to mesh — Round 11 (Mesh Setup Round):**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, sk next 2 sts. \[Dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts\] rep 19 times (19 more times, for 20 dc total). Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.
{20 dc + 20 ch-2 sps}
*(Math check: 1 starting dc + 19 dc = 20 dc; 20 ch-2 spaces, 40 sts skipped; 20 dc + 40 skipped = 60 base sts used ✓)*

> **Tip:** On the setup round, you work dc into actual stitches. On all following mesh rounds (Rounds 12–19), you work dc into the ch-2 spaces from the round below.

**Rounds 12–19 (Mesh Body Rounds — 8 rounds):**
Sl st into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2. \[Dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2\] rep 19 times. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.
{20 dc + 20 ch-2 sps — each round}
*(Math check: 20 repeats of [dc into ch-2 sp, ch 2] = 20 dc + 20 ch-2 spaces per round ✓)*

Repeat this round for Rounds 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. (8 rounds total after the setup round = 9 mesh rounds total including Round 11.)

> **Measurement Check:** After Round 19, your bag body should measure approximately 9 inches (23 cm) from the base edge to the top of the mesh. If you'd like a taller bag, simply add more mesh rounds here (each round adds approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm of height).

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### SECTION 3: SOLID TOP BAND & DRAWSTRING CHANNEL
*Worked in MC. Joined rounds. At the end of each round, join with sl st to first sc.*

**Round 20 (Mesh-to-Solid Transition Round):**
Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st). Working into the final mesh round: sc in the top of the first ch-3 (the "dc" that began Round 19), sc in the ch-2 sp immediately after it, then \[sc in next dc, sc in next ch-2 sp\] rep 19 times. Join with sl st to first sc.
{60 sc}
*(Math check: 1 sc in dc + 1 sc in ch-2 sp = 2 sc per repeat; 20 repeats × 2 = 40 sc. Wait — let me recount cleanly: 20 dc and 20 ch-2 sps; sc in each dc (20 sc) + 2 sc in each ch-2 sp (40 sc) is the standard method, but a simpler approach is: work 1 sc into each dc AND 1 sc into each ch-2 sp = 20 + 20 = 40 sc. That gives only 40. To return to 60: work 1 sc into each dc AND 2 sc into each ch-2 sp: 20 + (20 × 2) = 20 + 40 = 60 ✓)*

> **Clarification for Round 20:** Work **1 sc into each dc** and **2 sc into each ch-2 space** across the round. This returns you to 60 stitches.
> *(20 dc × 1 sc = 20; 20 ch-2 sp × 2 sc = 40; 20 + 40 = 60 ✓)*

**Round 21:**
Ch 1 (does not count as st). Sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc.
{60 sc}

**Round 22 (Eyelet / Drawstring Round):**
Ch 1 (does not count as st). \[Sc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts\] rep 12 times. Join with sl st to first sc.
{36 sc + 12 ch-2 sps = 12 eyelets evenly spaced}
*(Math check: 12 repeats × 5 sts per repeat [3 sc worked + 2 skipped] = 60 sts accounted for ✓)*

> **Tip:** These 12 evenly spaced eyelets form the drawstring channel. Your cord will be threaded in and out of all 12 openings to cinch the bag closed.

**Round 23:**
Ch 1 (does not count as st). \[Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp\] rep 12 times. Join with sl st to first sc.
{60 sc}
*(Math check: 36 sc from worked sts + 12 ch-2 sps × 2 sc = 36 + 24 = 60 ✓)*

**Round 24:**
Ch 1 (does not count as st). Sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc.
{60 sc}

> This final solid round creates the upper wall of the drawstring channel, fully enclosing it on the outside. Rounds 21 through 24 form the complete channel structure: lower wall (Rnd 21) → eyelets (Rnd 22) → restoration round (Rnd 23) → upper wall (Rnd 24).

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### SECTION 4: SCRUNCHIE RUFFLE
*Worked in CC (or MC for a tonal look). Joined round.*

**Round 25 (Ruffle Round):**
Join CC with sl st to any st of Round 24.
Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 3 hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc.
{180 hdc}
*(Math check: 60 sts × 3 hdc = 180 hdc ✓)*

Fasten off CC. Weave in end securely.

> **Scrunchie Effect:** Working 3 hdc into every stitch creates triple the fabric in the same circumference, forcing the ruffle to gather and ruche — exactly the scrunchie effect! The ruffle will curl slightly forward and outward, framing the bag opening.

> **Optional variation:** For a more subtle ruffle, work 2 hdc in each stitch instead of 3 (= 120 hdc). For an even more dramatic ruffle, work 4 hdc in each stitch (= 240 hdc).

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### SECTION 5: DRAWSTRING CORD
*Worked in CC (or MC). Creates both the closure and the carry strap.*

**Cord:**
With CC, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail, chain **230 stitches** (or until cord measures approximately **60 inches / 152 cm** laid flat — measure and adjust chain count as needed).
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across to create a flat, sturdy cord.
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail.

*(Math check: 230 chains at 6 mm hook ≈ 60 inches / 152 cm ✓ — sufficient length to function as a shoulder strap when drawstring is pulled through)*

> **Cord Tip:** Sl sting back into each chain stitch creates a denser, more durable cord that resists stretching and looks polished. Alternatively, work sc into each chain for an even thicker cord.

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## Finishing

**Step 1 — Weave in ends.**
Using a yarn needle, weave in all ends from the base, body, and ruffle. Weave in at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in multiple directions for security.

**Step 2 — Thread the drawstring cord.**
Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the cord. Beginning at any eyelet on Round 22, weave the cord in and out through all 12 eyelets, going *into* each eyelet from the outside and *out* through the next eyelet from the inside. When you return to the starting eyelet, both cord ends should be exiting on the same side of the bag (the outside, or the inside — your preference). Pull both ends to cinch the bag closed.

**Step 3 — Secure cord ends.**
Tie a simple overhand knot in each cord end to prevent fraying and to create a stopper. Alternatively, add a tassel, bead, or pom-pom to each end for decoration.

**Step 4 — Block (optional but recommended).**
Lightly wet-block the bag by submerging it in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water (do not wring), reshaping to measurements, and laying flat to dry. This evens out the mesh stitch and gives the bag a polished finish. The ruffle can be gently fluffed outward while blocking.

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## How to Use Your Scrunchie Bag

**To close:** Pull both ends of the drawstring cord simultaneously, gathering the ruffle together. Knot or wrap the ends to secure.

**To carry:** With the bag cinched closed, both cord ends can be held together as a short wrist loop, or with a longer cord, draped over one shoulder as a crossbody bag.

**To open:** Untie or unwrap the cord ends and pull the cord open gently from both sides.

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## Pattern Schematic (Written)

```
 _______________  ← Round 25: Ruffle (180 hdc — gathered/ruffled)
|_______________|  ← Round 24: Solid sc (60 sc)
|   _ _ _ _ _  |  ← Round 22: Eyelet/drawstring round (12 eyelets)
|_______________|  ← Round 20-21, 23: Solid sc band (60 sc each)
|               |
|  MESH BODY    |  ← Rounds 11–19: Mesh stitch (20 dc + 20 ch-2 sp per rnd)
|   (9 rounds)  |  ← approx. 9 inches (23 cm) tall
|               |
 \_____________/   ← Rounds 1–10: Circular base (6 → 60 sc)
                      approx. 5.5 in (14 cm) diameter
```

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## Round-by-Round Summary

| Round(s) | Section | Stitch | Count |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Base | 6 sc in MR | 6 |
| 2 | Base | 2 sc in each | 12 |
| 3 | Base | [sc, inc] × 6 | 18 |
| 4 | Base | [sc2, inc] × 6 | 24 |
| 5 | Base | [sc3, inc] × 6 | 30 |
| 6 | Base | [sc4, inc] × 6 | 36 |
| 7 | Base | [sc5, inc] × 6 | 42 |
| 8 | Base | [sc6, inc] × 6 | 48 |
| 9 | Base | [sc7, inc] × 6 | 54 |
| 10 | Base | [sc8, inc] × 6 | 60 |
| 11 | Mesh Setup | [dc, ch2, sk2] × 20 | 20 dc + 20 ch-2 sps |
| 12–19 | Mesh Body | [dc in ch-sp, ch2] × 20 | 20 dc + 20 ch-2 sps |
| 20 | Transition | sc in dc, 2sc in ch-sp | 60 sc |
| 21 | Solid Band | sc each st | 60 sc |
| 22 | Eyelet Rnd | [sc3, ch2, sk2] × 12 | 36 sc + 12 ch-2 sps |
| 23 | Solid Band | [sc3, 2sc in ch-sp] × 12 | 60 sc |
| 24 | Solid Band | sc each st | 60 sc |
| 25 | Ruffle | 3 hdc in each st | 180 hdc |
| Cord | Drawstring | ch 230, sl st back | ~60 in / 152 cm |

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## Yarn Yardage Breakdown (Estimated)

| Section | Yarn | Estimated Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| Base (Rnds 1–10) | MC | ~30 yds (27 m) |
| Mesh Body (Rnds 11–19) | MC | ~140 yds (128 m) |
| Solid Top Band (Rnds 20–24) | MC | ~50 yds (46 m) |
| Ruffle (Rnd 25) | CC | ~35 yds (32 m) |
| Drawstring Cord | CC | ~35 yds (32 m) |
| **Total MC** | | **~220 yds (201 m)** |
| **Total CC** | | **~70 yds (64 m)** |
| **Grand Total** | | **~290 yds (265 m)** |

> **One-color version:** Work the entire bag, including ruffle and cord, in a single color. You will need approximately **290 yards (265 m)** total.

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## Substituting Yarn

If substituting yarn, look for:
- **Weight:** Worsted (4 — Medium), approximately 200–220 yards per 100g skein
- **Fiber:** 100% cotton or cotton-blend preferred for durability and washability
- **Texture:** Smooth plied yarn recommended; textured or bouclé yarns may obscure the mesh stitch pattern

**Suggested yarn brands:** Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, WeCrochet Dishie, Paintbox Simply DK (knit up to worsted gauge for extra drape), Paintbox Simply Worsted Cotton.

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## Care Instructions

Follow the yarn label care instructions. Generally for cotton:
- Machine wash cold, gentle cycle
- Lay flat to dry (do not tumble dry, which may shrink cotton)
- Do not iron the ruffle

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*© Pattern written in US crochet terminology. All rights to this written pattern are reserved. You may sell finished items made from this pattern; please credit the designer. Do not reproduce or redistribute the written pattern itself.*

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