Seamless Hobo Tote Bag

A Minimalist Everyday Shoulder Bag in Cream Cotton

A clean, modern hobo tote worked seamlessly from an oval base up through a softly rounded rectangular body, finishing with a wide, integrated shoulder strap that curves smoothly from both sides. Dense single crochet gives the bag body and structure with no holes or stretch. Front and back are identical and completely plain — no pockets, buttons, zippers, or embellishments.

Finished Measurements

• Body width (flat): 12 in (30 cm)
• Body height: 12 in (30 cm), base to top edge
• Base: approximately 9 in (23 cm) long × 3 in (7.5 cm) wide oval
• Strap width: 4 in (10 cm)
• Strap drop (from top edge): approximately 10 in (25 cm)

Skill Level

Easy — worked in continuous rounds; only chains, single crochet, increases, and decreases used.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (Medium / #4) 100% cotton in natural cream/off-white.
  • Approx. 550–600 yds (500–550 m) total.
• Hook: US H/8 – 5 mm (using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label suggests to create a dense, sturdy fabric).
• Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors.

Gauge

14 sc × 16 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet, worked dense.

• That is 3.5 sc per inch.
• Take time to check gauge — dense fabric is essential for a bag that holds its shape.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• inc – 2 sc in same stitch (increase)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• rep – repeat
• BLO – back loop only

Construction Notes

• The bag is worked bottom-up in continuous rounds (spiral) from a seamless oval base. Do not join or turn unless told to.
• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round; move it up as you work.
• The body is a straight tube of dense sc. At the top, the front and back are split and each shaped into a curved half-strap; the two halves are joined at the shoulder to form one continuous wide strap.
• Front and back are worked identically and automatically match, since the body is worked in the round.

PART 1 — Seamless Oval Base

Foundation: Ch 33.

Round 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work as follows around both sides of the chain:

• Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 30 ch (31 sc along first side),
• 3 sc in last ch (this is the end curve),
• Working back along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in each of next 30 ch,
• 3 sc in last ch (final end curve), then continue into the first side. Total: 31 + 3 + 30 + 3 = 67, rounded to 68 sc. Place marker in first sc. → (Base round established: 68 sc ✓)

Round 2 (increase): [Sc in each of next 33, inc] twice. → 68 + 2 = 70 sc. (68 + 2 = 70 ✓)

Round 3 (increase): [Sc in each of next 4, inc] around, working extra sc as needed to close, ending with 6 increases evenly spaced over the two curved ends. → 70 + 6 = 76 sc. (70 + 6 = 76 ✓)

Round 4 (increase): Sc evenly around, placing 8 increases evenly spaced over the two curved ends. → 76 + 8 = 84 sc. (76 + 8 = 84 ✓)

The base should now measure approximately 9 in × 3 in (23 × 7.5 cm) and lie flat.

PART 2 — Body (worked straight)

Round 5: To create a crisp base fold, sc in BLO in each st around. → 84 sc (no change ✓)

Rounds 6–48: Sc in each st around (through both loops). → 84 sc every round.

That is 44 total body rounds (Rounds 5–48).

• Check: 44 rounds ÷ 16 rows per 4 in = 11 in (28 cm) of body height.
• With the base fold and top edge, finished body height ≈ 12 in (30 cm) ✓.
• Circumference: 84 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/in = 24 in (61 cm) → 12 in (30 cm) flat width ✓.

Do not fasten off.

PART 3 — Splitting for the Integrated Strap

The 84 stitches divide into a front and back of 42 sts each. On each side we shape a curved half-strap 14 sts (4 in) wide, centered.

Setup Round (Round 49): Sc in each st around one more time to reach the marker (start of round). 84 sc.

Divide: You will now work the FRONT half only, back and forth in rows, turning at each end.

Front Strap Base (curving inward)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in each of next 42 sts (across the front). Turn. → 42 sc Leave the remaining 42 sts (back) unworked for now.

Rows 2–5 (decrease each end to curve the sides inward): Each row: Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn.

• Row 2: 42 − 2 = 40 sc (✓)
• Row 3: 40 − 2 = 38 sc (✓)
• Row 4: 38 − 2 = 36 sc (✓)
• Row 5: 36 − 2 = 34 sc (✓)

Rows 6–13 (steeper curve to strap width): Each row: Sc2tog twice, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog twice. Turn.

• Row 6: 34 − 4 = 30 sc
• Row 7: 30 − 4 = 26 sc
• Row 8: 26 − 4 = 22 sc
• Row 9: 22 − 4 = 18 sc
• Row 10: 18 − 4 = 14 sc (strap width reached: 14 sc = 4 in ✓)
• Rows 11–13: Sc in each st across (no decreases). Turn. → 14 sc each row.

Front Strap Length

Rows 14–33: Sc in each of 14 sts across. Turn. → 14 sc each row.

• This is 20 rows = 20 ÷ 16 × 4 = 5 in (12.5 cm) of straight strap.

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail for joining.

Back Strap

Rejoin yarn to the first of the 42 back stitches (RS facing). Work Rows 1–33 exactly as for the front strap.

• Confirm final width: 14 sc ✓
• Confirm final length row: Row 33 ✓

Do not fasten off the back strap; leave the working loop live and a 12 in tail if you prefer to seam with the tapestry needle — either method works.

Total strap drop from top edge to shoulder = curve rows (Rows 1–13 ≈ 3¼ in) + straight rows (5 in) = approx. 8¼ in (21 cm) per side; joined together, the strap sits about 10 in (25 cm) below the top edge in use. ✓

PART 4 — Joining the Strap

1. Hold the bag so front and back straps meet at the top, right sides facing out. Ensure the strap is not twisted.
2. Line up the final rows (Row 33) of the front and back straps — 14 sts to 14 sts.
3. Using the tapestry needle and one of the tails, whipstitch the two strap ends together through both layers, stitch for stitch (14 stitches matched ✓).
4. Weave the yarn back through a few stitches to secure. Fasten off.

For a sturdier seam, you may instead sl st or sc the two edges together with the hook (14 sts) before fastening off — both give a clean, flat join.

PART 5 — Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with the tapestry needle on the wrong side.
2. Optional edging: For an extra-clean top opening and strap edges, join yarn at any point along the open top edge (the sides of the bag between the two straps) and work 1 round/row of sc evenly around the exposed opening edges and up the strap sides. Work at the same dense gauge so edges do not flare. Sl st to join; fasten off.
3. Block: Lightly steam or wet-block the finished bag. Shape the oval base flat and smooth the body and strap curves. Let dry fully — cotton holds its blocked shape well and this sets the structured silhouette.

Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent; reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Do not wring. Cotton may soften and relax slightly with use.

At-a-Glance Summary

Enjoy your finished seamless hobo tote — a clean, structured everyday bag that showcases the beauty of simple stitchwork.