Simple Mesh Lace Vest

A lightweight, openwork V-neck vest worked in a two-row mesh that uses only yarn overs and k2tog — true beginner lace. Pieces are knit flat from the bottom up, seamed at the shoulders and sides, then finished with picked-up ribbed armhole and neckbands. Designed with about 4" (10 cm) of positive ease so it layers easily over shirts and dresses. Lace-weight yarn is worked on larger needles than you may expect, creating an airy fabric without hundreds of stitches.

Skill level: Beginner (knit, purl, yo, k2tog, ssk, bind off, pick up stitches, mattress stitch)

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)" [81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm]

Shown in size S. Choose the size closest to your actual bust plus 4" (10 cm) of ease. For a closer layering fit, choose one size smaller.

Finished measurements

Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)" [91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132, 142) cm]

Length (shoulder to hem): 21½ (22, 23, 23½, 24½, 25½)" [54.5 (56, 58.5, 59.5, 62, 65) cm]

Hem to underarm: 14 (14, 14½, 14½, 15, 15½)" [35.5 (35.5, 37, 37, 38, 39.5) cm]

Armhole depth: 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm]

Cross back: 14¼ (15, 15¾, 16¼, 17¾, 18¼)" [36 (38, 40, 41.5, 45, 46.5) cm]

Each shoulder: 3¾ (4, 4, 4¼, 4¾, 4¾)" [9.5 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12) cm]

Back neck width: 7 (7, 7¾, 7¾, 8¼, 9)" [18 (18, 19.5, 19.5, 21, 23) cm]

Yarn

Lace weight (CYC 0), approximately 850 (1000, 1150, 1350, 1550, 1750) yds [775 (915, 1050, 1235, 1420, 1600) m]

A smooth wool, wool-silk, or merino lace (about 800–900 yds / 730–825 m per 100 g) shows the mesh clearly. Fuzzy yarns will hide the eyelets.

Example: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins at 875 yds [800 m] / 100 g.

Needles

• US 4 / 3.5 mm straight or circular needles for the body
• US 2 / 2.75 mm straight or circular needles for the hem
• US 2 / 2.75 mm circular needle, 16–24" [40–60 cm], for armhole and neckbands

Adjust needle size to obtain gauge. Lace-weight yarn is intentionally worked on larger needles so the fabric opens.

Notions

• Tapestry needle
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Stitch markers
• Blocking wires or pins (strongly recommended)

Gauge

24 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Simple Mesh Lace on US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, blocked.

(6 sts per inch, 8 rows per inch ✓)

Work a swatch at least 6" (15 cm) square. Wet-block and dry fully before measuring. Unblocked mesh looks tight and will not match these measurements.

Abbreviations (US)

BO — bind off
CO — cast on
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
p — purl
pm — place marker
rem — remain(ing)
rep — repeat
RS — right side
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, insert left needle into the fronts of both slipped sts and knit them together)
st(s) — stitch(es)
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over

Pattern notes

• Worked flat, bottom up, in two pieces.
• The first and last stitch of every row is a selvedge: knit on RS, purl on WS. Seam through these stitches.
• Simple Mesh Lace needs an even or odd stitch count; both are written below. After shaping, if you cannot complete a full (yo, k2tog), knit the leftover stitch(es).
• Stitch counts are given as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). Highlight your size before you begin.
• Block pieces to schematic measurements before seaming. Lace will not look or fit correctly until it is blocked.
• When picking up stitches, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along vertical edges and 1 st per bound-off stitch along horizontal edges.

Stitch patterns

1x1 Rib (even number of sts)

Every row: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Simple Mesh Lace

Even number of sts

• Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
• Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Odd number of sts

• Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
• Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Repeat Rows 1–2 for pattern. After blocking, the fabric is a stable, even mesh.

Back

With smaller needles (US 2 / 2.75 mm), CO 108 (120, 132, 144, 156, 168) sts.

(108 sts ÷ 6 sts per inch = 18" back width ✓)
(120 ÷ 6 = 20" ✓) (132 ÷ 6 = 22" ✓) (144 ÷ 6 = 24" ✓) (156 ÷ 6 = 26" ✓) (168 ÷ 6 = 28" ✓)

Work in 1x1 Rib until hem measures 2" [5 cm], ending after a WS row.

Change to larger needles (US 4 / 3.5 mm).

Work Simple Mesh Lace until piece measures 14 (14, 14½, 14½, 15, 15½)" [35.5 (35.5, 37, 37, 38, 39.5) cm] from CO, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes

Next row (RS): BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts, work in pattern to end.

Next row (WS): BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts, purl to end.

100 (110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts.

(108 − 4 − 4 = 100 ✓) (120 − 5 − 5 = 110 ✓) (132 − 6 − 6 = 120 ✓) (144 − 7 − 7 = 130 ✓) (156 − 8 − 8 = 140 ✓) (168 − 9 − 9 = 150 ✓)

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 6 (9, 12, 15, 16, 19) more times. 7 (10, 13, 16, 17, 20) decrease rows total.

86 (90, 94, 98, 106, 110) sts.

(100 − 14 = 86 ✓) (110 − 20 = 90 ✓) (120 − 26 = 94 ✓) (130 − 32 = 98 ✓) (140 − 34 = 106 ✓) (150 − 40 = 110 ✓)

Work even in pattern until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm], ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders

Next row (RS): BO 22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts, work in pattern to end.

64 (66, 70, 72, 78, 82) sts.

(86 − 22 = 64 ✓) (90 − 24 = 66 ✓) (94 − 24 = 70 ✓) (98 − 26 = 72 ✓) (106 − 28 = 78 ✓) (110 − 28 = 82 ✓)

Next row (WS): BO 22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts, purl to end.

42 (42, 46, 46, 50, 54) sts remain for back neck.

(64 − 22 = 42 ✓) (66 − 24 = 42 ✓) (70 − 24 = 46 ✓) (72 − 26 = 46 ✓) (78 − 28 = 50 ✓) (82 − 28 = 54 ✓)

Place remaining sts on a holder for the neckband. Fasten off.

Front

Work as for Back until the two underarm bind-off rows are complete, ending after the WS bind-off row.

100 (110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts.

Divide for V-neck

Next row (RS): Work 50 (55, 60, 65, 70, 75) sts in pattern, place remaining 50 (55, 60, 65, 70, 75) sts on a holder for the Left Front.

Work Right Front (as worn) first. This side has the armhole at the beginning of RS rows and the neck at the end of RS rows.

Right Front (as worn)

Continue in Simple Mesh Lace, shaping armhole and neck at the same time as follows.

Armhole decreases (armhole edge = beginning of RS rows): On the next RS row, then every RS row 6 (9, 12, 15, 16, 19) more times, work: K1, ssk, pattern to end. 7 (10, 13, 16, 17, 20) armhole decreases total.

Neck decreases (neck edge = end of RS rows): On the next RS row, then every RS row 20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 26) more times, work: pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 27) neck decreases total.

When a RS row needs both decreases:

K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

WS rows: Purl.

After all armhole decreases are complete, continue neck decreases only (if any remain), then work even until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm], matching the Back, ending after a WS row.

22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts remain.

(50 − 7 armhole − 21 neck = 22 ✓)
(55 − 10 − 21 = 24 ✓)
(60 − 13 − 23 = 24 ✓)
(65 − 16 − 23 = 26 ✓)
(70 − 17 − 25 = 28 ✓)
(75 − 20 − 27 = 28 ✓)

BO remaining sts.

Left Front (as worn)

Return 50 (55, 60, 65, 70, 75) held sts to the needle with RS facing. Rejoin yarn at the neck edge.

Shape as for Right Front, reversing the edges.

Armhole decreases (armhole edge = end of RS rows): On the next RS row, then every RS row 6 (9, 12, 15, 16, 19) more times, work: pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 7 (10, 13, 16, 17, 20) armhole decreases total.

Neck decreases (neck edge = beginning of RS rows): On the next RS row, then every RS row 20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 26) more times, work: K1, ssk, pattern to end. 21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 27) neck decreases total.

When a RS row needs both decreases:

K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

WS rows: Purl.

Work even after shaping is complete until armhole matches Right Front and Back, ending after a WS row.

22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts remain. (Same math as Right Front ✓)

BO remaining sts.

Finishing

Wet-block Back and Front to the finished measurements. Pin or wire the mesh until it is fully dry. Do not skip this step.

Shoulders

Sew shoulder seams with mattress stitch, matching the 22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 28) bound-off sts on each side.

Side seams

Sew side seams with mattress stitch from the top of the hem rib to the underarm bind-off, leaving armholes open. Use the selvedge stitches; keep the seam as elastic as the fabric.

Armhole bands

With smaller circular needle (US 2 / 2.75 mm) and RS facing, beginning at the underarm seam, pick up and knit 98 (106, 114, 122, 130, 138) sts evenly around the armhole.

(Pick up about 1 st per bound-off st across the underarm and 3 sts per 4 rows up each vertical edge. 98 is even for 1x1 rib ✓)

Join to work in the round. Pm for beginning of round.

Work 1x1 Rib (*k1, p1; rep from *) for 1" [2.5 cm].

BO loosely in rib. Repeat for the second armhole.

Neckband

With smaller circular needle (US 2 / 2.75 mm) and RS facing, beginning at the Left shoulder seam:

• Pick up and knit 44 (46, 50, 52, 56, 58) sts down the Left Front neck slope
• Pick up 1 st at the center of the V and pm on this st (center st)
• Pick up and knit 44 (46, 50, 52, 56, 58) sts up the Right Front neck slope
• Knit 42 (42, 46, 46, 50, 54) back-neck sts from the holder

131 (135, 147, 151, 163, 171) sts.

Join to work in the round. Pm for beginning of round (Left shoulder).

The extra center st makes a clean V. The band is worked with a centered decrease so it lies flat.

Round 1: Work 1x1 Rib to 2 sts before center st, ssk, k1 (center st), k2tog, work 1x1 Rib to end of round. (2 sts decreased)

Round 2: Work 1x1 Rib, knitting the center st every round so it stays a knit column.

Rep Rounds 1–2 until band measures 1" [2.5 cm], ending after a Round 2.

BO loosely in rib, keeping the ssk, k1, k2tog sequence on the bind-off round at the center V.

Weave and final block

Weave in ends on the WS. Steam or lightly re-block the seams and bands so the mesh opens evenly and the rib sits flat.

Schematic measurements

Beginner tips

• Place a removable marker on the RS so you always know which row is the yarn-over row.
• Count stitches after every decrease row. On even counts use the even mesh row; on odd counts use the odd mesh row.
• Bind off the neckband with a needle one size larger if the edge feels tight — a tight neckband will draw the V upward.
• If your row gauge is off after blocking, match armhole depth in inches, not row counts.