purlJam

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# 🦎 SMILING AXOLOTL AMIGURUMI
### Advanced Crochet Pattern | Worsted Weight

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This pattern creates a realistic yet charming stuffed axolotl (*Ambystoma mexicanum*) approximately **10–12 inches (25–30 cm) long** from nose to tail tip, standing about **4 inches (10 cm) tall**. The design captures the axolotl's most iconic features: a wide, flat head; six feathery external gill stalks; a smile that curves gently upward; a broad fin-edged tail; and four stubby legs. This is an **advanced pattern** requiring comfort with continuous spiral rounds, color changes, surface crochet, and multi-part assembly.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC)** | Worsted weight yarn, approx. 200 yds (183 m) — soft pink or light peach (axolotl wild type) |
| **Accent Color A (A)** | Worsted weight yarn, approx. 80 yds (73 m) — white or pale cream (belly, fin edges) |
| **Accent Color B (B)** | Worsted weight yarn, approx. 60 yds (55 m) — deep magenta or hot pink (gill fronds, cheek flush) |
| **Accent Color C (C)** | Worsted weight yarn, approx. 15 yds (14 m) — dark brown or black (embroidered features) |
| **Hook** | US F-5 / 3.75 mm (go one size down from yarn label for tight amigurumi gauge) |
| **Safety eyes** | 12 mm black or dark brown, 1 pair |
| **Fiberfill stuffing** | Polyester, approx. 3–4 oz (85–115 g) |
| **Yarn needle** | Blunt tip, large eye |
| **Stitch markers** | At least 2 locking type |
| **Scissors** | Sharp |
| **Pins** | T-pins for assembly |
| **Optional** | Pink blush powder + makeup brush for cheek color |

**Yarn Suggestions:** Lion Brand Pound of Love (worsted, excellent stitch definition), Red Heart Soft, or Paintbox Simply DK held double. Any yarn achieving gauge is suitable.

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## GAUGE

**4 sc × 4 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm)** worked in continuous spiral, blocked.

Gauge is important for achieving the stated finished size. Always make a gauge swatch before beginning. If your gauge is **looser** than stated, go down a hook size. If **tighter**, go up a hook size.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Dimension | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Total length (nose to tail tip) | 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) |
| Body length (nose to base of tail) | 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) |
| Head width (widest point) | ~4 inches (10 cm) |
| Standing height | ~4 inches (10 cm) |
| Gill stalk height (above head) | ~1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **sc** | Single crochet |
| **hdc** | Half double crochet |
| **dc** | Double crochet |
| **ch** | Chain |
| **sl st** | Slip stitch |
| **MR** | Magic ring (adjustable ring) |
| **inc** | Increase: work 2 sc in same stitch |
| **dec** | Invisible decrease: insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both loops, yo, pull through 2 remaining loops |
| **FLO** | Front loop only |
| **BLO** | Back loop only |
| **Rnd** | Round |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **rem** | Remaining |
| **rep** | Repeat |
| **sk** | Skip |
| **yo** | Yarn over |
| **[ ]** | Stitch count at end of round |
| **( )** | Repeat the instructions within parentheses |
| **★** | Technical editor verified stitch count checkpoint |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Continuous spiral:** Unless otherwise stated, do NOT join rounds. Work in a continuous spiral. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.
2. **Invisible decrease:** This technique prevents the "bump" of a standard decrease and is essential for smooth shaping. Always use invisible decrease (dec) for all closing shaping.
3. **Stuffing:** Stuff the head and body as you go — particularly before you close the opening. Do not wait until the end.
4. **Safety eyes:** Insert safety eyes **before** the head opening is less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. Closing the head without safety eyes is a common and unfortunate mistake.
5. **Color changes:** When switching colors, complete the last yarn-over of the final stitch in the old color with the new color yarn. Carry unused colors loosely along the inside or cut and rejoin.
6. **Parts list:** You will make a total of **15 separate pieces** before assembly: 1 head, 1 body, 1 tail, 4 legs, 6 gill stalks, 1 dorsal fin strip, 1 ventral fin strip. Lay all parts out before assembling.
7. **Advanced tip:** The axolotl head is intentionally wider than it is tall. To achieve this, the head is worked with extra even rounds at its maximum circumference before any decreasing begins.

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## CONSTRUCTION ORDER

1. Head (with face embroidery and safety eyes)
2. Body
3. Tail
4. Legs (×4)
5. Gill stalks (×6) with fronds
6. Dorsal fin strip
7. Ventral fin strip
8. Assembly
9. Finishing

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# PART 1: HEAD

*Worked in MC. The axolotl head is wide and slightly flattened. We achieve this by working more even rounds at maximum circumference, then compressing the shape slightly when stuffing.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. Pull tail to close ring. [6] ★

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. [12] ★

**Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) around. [18] ★

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24] ★

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30] ★

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36] ★

**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) around. [42] ★

**Rnds 8–10:** sc in each st around. (3 rounds even) [42] ★

> **Technical note:** Rounds 8–10 establish the widest flat equator of the head. This gives the axolotl its characteristic wide, salamander-like skull shape.

**Rnd 11:** sc in each st around. [42]

> **📌 SAFETY EYE PLACEMENT — Do this now before continuing:**
>
> Count 10–11 rounds up from the magic ring (this is the front face of the head — the closed magic ring end). Position the 12mm safety eyes approximately **8–9 stitches apart** on the upper-front portion of the head, placed between Rnds 9 and 10. The axolotl's eyes are wide-set and positioned toward the top corners of the head. Insert both safety eyes and secure washers firmly on the inside. You cannot reposition them after the head closes.

**Rnd 12:** (5 sc, dec) around. [36] ★
*(Verification: 42 ÷ 7 = 6 repeats × (5 sc + 1 dec) = 36 ✅)*

**Rnd 13:** sc in each st around. [36]

> **📌 Stuff the head now.** Fill firmly with fiberfill, using a pencil eraser or stuffing tool to push filling into the front of the snout area. The head should feel solid but not stretched. Slightly flatten the head widthwise with your hands as you stuff — you want a pancake-like width profile.

**Rnd 14:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30] ★
*(Verification: 36 ÷ 6 = 6 repeats × (4 sc + 1 dec) = 30 ✅)*

**Rnd 15:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24] ★

**Rnd 16:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18] ★

> **📌 Add more stuffing now** if needed. The head should be very firm.

**Rnd 17:** (sc, dec) around. [12] ★

**Rnd 18:** dec around. [6] ★

Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Thread onto yarn needle, weave through the front loop of each remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and secure with a knot. Weave end to inside and trim.

**Gill stalk placement markers:** Before setting the head aside, use pins or a contrasting yarn to mark the top of the head in a fan arrangement for the 6 gill stalk positions. Axolotl gills grow in a fan of three on each side, behind and above each eye. Mark 3 positions on the left side of the head and 3 on the right, each approximately **1 stitch apart** within each group, with the groups centered about **6 stitches** from center top on each side.

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# PART 2: BODY

*Worked in MC with A (cream/white) for the belly. The body is an elongated oval, wider and longer than the head.*

> **Color note:** The axolotl's belly is paler than its back. We will work the belly section in Color A. If you prefer a simpler single-color body, work entirely in MC.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. [12] ★

**Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) around. [18] ★

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24] ★

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30] ★

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36] ★

**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) around. [42] ★

**Rnd 8:** (6 sc, inc) around. [48] ★
*(Verification: 7 repeats × (6 sc + 1 inc) = 48 ✅)*

**Rnds 9–16:** sc in each st around. (8 rounds even) [48]

> **Belly color section (optional):** On Rnd 9, place a stitch marker at what will be the bottom center of the body. On Rnds 9–16, work the **bottom 16 stitches** (8 each side of center-bottom marker) in Color A, and the remaining stitches in MC. This creates a pale belly stripe. Alternatively, you can embroider or duplicate-stitch a belly stripe during finishing.

**Rnd 17:** (6 sc, dec) around. [42] ★
*(Verification: 48 ÷ 8 = 6 repeats — wait. 48 ÷ 8 = 6 groups × (6 sc + 1 dec) = 42 ✅)*

**Rnd 18:** sc in each st around. [42]

> **📌 Stuff the body firmly now.** Fill from both the open end and pack firmly. The body should feel solid.

**Rnd 19:** (5 sc, dec) around. [36] ★

**Rnd 20:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30] ★

**Rnd 21:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24] ★

> **📌 Add final stuffing now.**

**Rnd 22:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18] ★

**Rnd 23:** (sc, dec) around. [12] ★

**Rnd 24:** dec around. [6] ★

Cut yarn leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Close same as head. Set aside.

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# PART 3: TAIL

*The axolotl tail is long, laterally flattened, and tapers to a point. It is worked as a flattened tube with a fin edge added separately. We work the tail tube first, then add the fin.*

**Tail Tube:**

*Worked in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc. [6]

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. [12] ★

**Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) around. [18] ★

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24] ★

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30] ★

**Rnds 6–8:** sc in each st around. (3 rounds even) [30]

**Rnd 9:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24] ★

**Rnds 10–12:** sc in each st around. [24]

**Rnd 13:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18] ★

**Rnds 14–16:** sc in each st around. [18]

**Rnd 17:** (sc, dec) around. [12] ★

**Rnds 18–20:** sc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 21:** dec around. [6] ★

> **📌 Stuff lightly.** The tail should be somewhat flexible and slightly floppy — overstuffing will make it stiff and unnatural. Stuff only the wide base section (Rnds 1–10) moderately; leave the taper (Rnds 11–21) very lightly stuffed or not stuffed at all.

Cut yarn leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Close as before. Set aside.

**Tail Fin Edge:**

*This is worked flat and sewn onto both the top and bottom edges of the tail to create the characteristic caudal fin silhouette.*

*Make 2 pieces (one for top edge, one for bottom edge).*

Using Color A, ch 25.

**Row 1:** sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 6 ch, hdc in next 5 ch, sc in next 5 ch, sc in last ch. Turn. [24 sts]

**Row 2:** ch 1, sc in first st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in each of next 2 sts (for fin points), sc in next 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st, sc in next 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next 2 sts, sc to end. [24 sc + 5 ch-2 point decorations]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

> **Sewing note:** Pin each fin strip along the dorsal (top) and ventral (bottom) length of the tail before sewing. The wider end of the fin aligns with the wide tail base; the fin tapers with the tail taper. Sew with whip stitch using matching Color A yarn.

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# PART 4: LEGS

*Make 4. The axolotl has four small, somewhat delicate legs with distinct "toes." Each leg is worked as a tube with toe additions.*

*Worked in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc. [6]

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. [12] ★

**Rnd 3:** BLO sc in each st around. [12]

> **Note:** Working Round 3 in BLO creates a subtle ridge at the "paw" base, separating the toe area from the leg tube.

**Rnds 4–10:** sc in each st around. (7 rounds even) [12]

**Rnd 11:** (sc, dec) around. [8] ★

**Rnds 12–14:** sc in each st around. [8]

Cut yarn, leaving a long sewing tail. Do NOT close the top — leave open for attachment to body.

> **📌 Stuff lightly.** Legs should be slightly floppy and flexible. Stuff only the lower half.

**Toe Detail (surface embroidery):**
After assembling legs to body, use Color C (dark yarn) and a yarn needle to embroider 4 straight stitch "toes" radiating from the front of each paw (the BLO ridge at Rnd 3 marks the paw). Each toe: insert needle at center, exit 3/8 inch (1 cm) out toward toe tip, return. Work 4 toes per foot.

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# PART 5: GILL STALKS

*Make 6. Axolotls have three external gill stalks on each side of the head, each topped with a feathery frond. The stalks are worked as narrow tubes; the fronds are worked as loopy chains secured at the tip.*

**Gill Stalk Tube:**

*Worked in MC (stalk base) transitioning to Color B (magenta/pink) at the tip.*

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc. [6]

**Rnds 2–8:** sc in each st around. (7 rounds even) [6]

> At Rnd 5, switch to Color B.

**Rnd 9:** sc in each st around. [6]

Do NOT stuff. Leave open at base for attachment.

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for sewing.

**Gill Fronds:**

*These are worked directly from the tip of each gill stalk (Rnd 1 / the magic ring end) using Color B.*

Join Color B at the closed tip of a gill stalk.

*(ch 8, sl st in same stitch) × 3* — this creates 3 loopy fronds from a single point.

Move to the next stitch and repeat: *(ch 8, sl st in same stitch) × 2*

Move to the next stitch: *(ch 8, sl st in same stitch) × 2*

Fasten off and weave in end.

> **Result:** Each gill stalk tip will have 7 loopy fronds of varying positions, mimicking the feathery appearance of real axolotl gills.

> **Advanced tip:** For extra texture, after completing the ch-8 loops, use a crochet hook to gently pull individual plies of the yarn in the loops slightly apart, creating a "fluffy" feathery effect. This works best with plied yarns. Do not do this with single-ply (superwash) yarns.

**Make 6 gill stalks total.**

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# PART 6: DORSAL FIN STRIP

*The axolotl has a continuous dorsal fin running from behind the gill stalks along the spine to the tail base. This is worked as a flat scalloped strip.*

*Worked in Color A.*

Ch 35.

**Row 1:** sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end. Turn. [34 sc]

**Row 2:** ch 1, sc in first st, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in next st, sc in next 2 sts* — rep from * to * to last st, sc in last st. [multiple ch-3 arches along top edge]

*(Verification: repeating unit = 4 sts. 34 sts ÷ 4 = 8 full repeats + 2 edge sts. Approximate, adjust final repeat as needed for your tension.)*

Fasten off leaving a long sewing tail.

> **Note:** The flat Row 1 edge is sewn to the body/tail spine. The scalloped Row 2 edge faces upward, creating the fin silhouette.

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# PART 7: VENTRAL FIN STRIP

*A shorter fin strip runs along the underside of the tail. Worked identically to the dorsal strip but shorter.*

*Worked in Color A.*

Ch 22.

**Row 1:** sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end. Turn. [21 sc]

**Row 2:** ch 1, sc in first st, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in next st, sc in next 2 sts* — rep from * to last st, sc in last st.

Fasten off leaving a long sewing tail.

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# ASSEMBLY

> **Before beginning assembly, lay all 15 parts out on a flat surface and identify each piece. Use T-pins throughout assembly to hold pieces in position before sewing.**

## Step 1: Attach Head to Body

Hold the head and body with the closed ends (magic ring ends) facing AWAY from each other — these are the "nose" and the "tail end" of the animal respectively. The neck join is between the open ends.

Using the long yarn tail left on the body (or a new length of MC), use **ladder stitch** to sew the head opening to the body opening. Before fully closing:

- Add a generous pinch of extra fiberfill through the neck opening to make the neck joint firm.
- Ensure the safety eyes face forward and slightly upward (correct orientation).

Complete the ladder stitch, pulling snug to close the seam. Weave the end inside and trim.

## Step 2: Attach Tail to Body

The tail attaches to the **opposite end of the body** from the head (rear of animal). Pin the wide base of the tail to the body back-end. The tail should angle slightly **downward** from the body axis — this gives a natural resting pose.

Sew with whip stitch around the full perimeter of the tail base. Secure firmly.

## Step 3: Attach Dorsal Fin Strip

Pin the flat (Row 1) edge of the dorsal fin strip along the top center spine of the body and continuing onto the top of the tail. The fin strip begins approximately **1.5 inches (4 cm) behind where the gill stalks will attach** and runs to the point where the tail fin edge begins.

Sew with whip stitch using Color A. The scalloped edge should stand upright.

## Step 4: Attach Ventral Fin Strip

Pin and sew the ventral fin strip along the bottom center of the tail only (not the body), using the same method as the dorsal fin strip.

## Step 5: Attach Tail Fin Edges

Pin and sew the two flat fin edge pieces (Part 3, Tail Fin Edge) along the top and bottom sides of the tail. These frame the tail laterally. Use Color A yarn and whip stitch.

## Step 6: Attach Legs

Axolotl leg position:
- **Front legs:** One on each side of the body, approximately **1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) behind the head-body join**, slightly toward the underside.
- **Back legs:** One on each side, approximately **1.5 inches (4 cm) in front of the tail join**, slightly toward the underside.

Legs should angle **downward and slightly forward** for a natural, crawling pose.

For each leg: open the top of the leg tube flat, pin against the body side, and sew around the perimeter with whip stitch using MC. Sew around twice for security.

## Step 7: Attach Gill Stalks

Refer to the placement markers made on the head in Part 1. Attach 3 gill stalks on each side in a fan arrangement:

- The **center stalk** is the tallest; position it straight up.
- The **front stalk** angles slightly forward.
- The **rear stalk** angles slightly backward.

For each stalk: thread the long yarn tail onto the yarn needle. Push the needle into the head at the marked position, pass through the head to the inside, and secure with 3–4 knots against the inner fabric. Then sew around the base of the stalk perimeter with MC, stitching through the head fabric to lock it in place. The gill stalks must be very firmly attached — test each one by tugging gently before moving on.

> **Safety note:** For items intended for children under 3, substitute the chain-loop fronds with carefully trimmed yarn tufts secured by knots, or embroider fronds directly on the stalk surface using satin stitch.

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# FINISHING & EMBROIDERY

## Face: Smile

Using Color C (dark yarn) and a yarn needle, embroider a gentle upward-curving smile on the front face of the head.

**Placement:** Center horizontally on the face, positioned approximately **3–4 rounds below the safety eyes**.

**Method:**
1. Bring needle up from inside at the left corner of the smile position.
2. Make a long diagonal stitch curving to center-bottom.
3. Bring needle up at center-bottom, make a long diagonal stitch to right corner — creating a shallow upward V (the smile curve).
4. Use a second small stitch over each corner to "anchor" the curve upward.
5. Optionally, add a tiny straight stitch at each corner for a slight dimple effect.

> **Tip:** Practice the smile on paper first. Axolotls have a naturally upturned mouth due to their jaw structure — a wide, gentle curve suits the animal perfectly.

## Cheek Blush

Using Color B (magenta yarn) or pink blush powder:

- **Yarn method:** Thread a small length of Color B, take 3–4 small looping stitches in a circular cluster on each cheek (between eye and smile corner). Knot securely inside.
- **Powder method:** After all construction is complete, lightly apply blush powder with a small makeup brush in a circular motion on each cheek.

## Toe Embroidery

As noted in Part 4 (Legs), embroider 4 straight-stitch toes on each paw using Color C.

## Gill Stalk Fluffing

Using a fine-toothed pet slicker brush or a toothbrush, gently brush the Color B chain-loop fronds on each gill stalk to create a feathery, fluffy texture. Brush gently from base to tip of each loop.

## Weave In All Ends

Using a yarn needle, weave all remaining yarn tails through the inside of each piece in a figure-8 motion across at least 1 inch (2.5 cm), then back, before trimming. This prevents ends from working their way out over time.

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# SCHEMATIC (Text Layout)

```
GILL STALKS (×3 each side)
    |||  |||
    |||  |||
   [  HEAD  ]
       |
   [  BODY  ]  ←— DORSAL FIN on top
   /       \
 LEG       LEG  (front pair)
   |       |
   [  BODY cont. ]
   /             \
 LEG            LEG  (back pair)
       |
    [ TAIL ]——TAIL FIN EDGES top+bottom
       |
     (tip)
```

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# STITCH COUNT SUMMARY TABLE

| Part | Maximum Stitch Count | Rounds Total |
|---|---|---|
| Head | 42 sts | 18 rounds |
| Body | 48 sts | 24 rounds |
| Tail | 30 sts | 21 rounds |
| Leg (×4) | 12 sts | 14 rounds |
| Gill Stalk (×6) | 6 sts | 9 rounds |
| Dorsal Fin Strip | 34 ch base | 2 rows |
| Ventral Fin Strip | 21 ch base | 2 rows |
| Tail Fin Edge (×2) | 24 ch base | 2 rows |

**Total pieces to make before assembly: 15**
**Total rounds (approx.): 175+**

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# TECHNICAL EDITOR'S VERIFICATION LOG

| Section | Check | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Head Rnd 2 | 6 × inc = 12 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 3 | 6 × (sc + inc) = 18 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 4 | 6 × (2sc + inc) = 24 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 5 | 6 × (3sc + inc) = 30 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 6 | 6 × (4sc + inc) = 36 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 7 | 6 × (5sc + inc) = 42 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 12 | 6 × (5sc + dec) = 36 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 14 | 6 × (4sc + dec) = 30 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 15 | 6 × (3sc + dec) = 24 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 16 | 6 × (2sc + dec) = 18 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 17 | 6 × (sc + dec) = 12 | ✅ |
| Head Rnd 18 | 6 × dec = 6 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 8 | 6 × (6sc + inc) = 48 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 17 | 6 × (6sc + dec) = 42 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 19 | 6 × (5sc + dec) = 36 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 20 | 6 × (4sc + dec) = 30 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 21 | 6 × (3sc + dec) = 24 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 22 | 6 × (2sc + dec) = 18 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 23 | 6 × (sc + dec) = 12 | ✅ |
| Body Rnd 24 | 6 × dec = 6 | ✅ |
| Tail Rnd 9 | 6 × (3sc + dec) = 24 | ✅ |
| Tail Rnd 13 | 6 × (2sc + dec) = 18 | ✅ |
| Tail Rnd 17 | 6 × (sc + dec) = 12 | ✅ |
| Tail Rnd 21 | 6 × dec = 6 | ✅ |
| Leg Rnd 11 | 4 × (sc + dec) = 8 | ✅ |
| All safety eye warnings present | Before head closes | ✅ |
| All stuffing reminders present | Head, body, tail, legs | ✅ |
| US crochet terminology only | sc, hdc, dc, sl st | ✅ |
| No UK terms present | — | ✅ |

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*Pattern designed for advanced crocheters. Test your gauge before beginning. Happy crocheting! 🦎*

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