purlJam

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# 🦎 SMILING AXOLOTL AMIGURUMI
### Advanced Crochet Pattern

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

The axolotl (*Ambystoma mexicanum*) is a permanently aquatic salamander known for its feathery external gill branches, wide smile, and endearing "baby face." This advanced amigurumi captures all the key features: a wide, flat head; a long tapering body; four stubby limbs; a flattened tail fin; a dorsal ridge; six dramatic feathery gill stalks; and of course — that famous smile.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 10–11 inches (25–28 cm) long from snout to tail tip; approximately 4 inches (10 cm) tall at the body (not including gills)

**Difficulty:** Advanced
*(Requires: multi-part assembly, color changes/yarn cuts, embroidery, complex small-piece construction)*

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC)** | Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in pale pink or peach — approx. 200 yards (183 m) |
| **Accent Color 1 (AC1)** | Worsted weight in deep magenta or dark rose — approx. 30 yards (27 m) *(gill filaments, smile)* |
| **Accent Color 2 (AC2)** | Worsted weight in light pink or blush — approx. 20 yards (18 m) *(belly, optional)* |
| **Hook** | US E-4 / 3.5 mm |
| **Safety Eyes** | Two 12 mm black safety eyes |
| **Stuffing** | Polyester fiberfill, approximately 3–4 oz |
| **Yarn Needle** | Blunt-tip tapestry needle |
| **Stitch Markers** | At least 3 (locking style recommended) |
| **Scissors** | Sharp embroidery scissors |
| **Pins** | T-pins or ball-head pins for assembly |
| **Optional** | Pink felt or fleece for inner gill detail; fabric glue |

**Yarn Notes:** Any worsted weight (4) yarn works. Acrylic is recommended for washability. For the classic "leucistic" axolotl look, use a pale peach-pink MC. For the wild-type, use dark olive/brown MC with AC1 in black.

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## GAUGE

**4 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**
**4 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**

Gauge is worked with US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook in single crochet in continuous rounds.
*Note: Amigurumi gauge must be tight so stuffing doesn't show through fabric. If your stitches gap, go down to a US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **inc** | increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| **dec** | invisible decrease — insert hook in front loop only (FLO) of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **ch** | chain |
| **MR** | magic ring (adjustable ring) |
| **FLO** | front loop only |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd(s)** | round(s) |
| **RS** | right side (outside of amigurumi) |
| **[ ]** | stitch count at end of round |
| **( ) x #** | repeat instructions in parentheses the number of times indicated |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Magic Ring (MR)
Make a loop with yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Insert hook, draw up a loop of working yarn, ch 1 to secure (does not count as a stitch). Work the first round into the ring, then pull the tail to close the center hole tightly.

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
This creates a nearly invisible decrease compared to the standard sc2tog. Insert hook through the **front loop only** of the first stitch, then through the **front loop only** of the second stitch (2 front loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both front loops (2 loops remain on hook). Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops. = 1 stitch made, 2 stitches consumed.

### Continuous Spiral
Do NOT join at the end of rounds (unless instructed). Do NOT chain at the beginning of rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.

### Surface Embroidery (Smile)
Thread yarn needle with AC1. Insert from inside the head to the surface at the corner of the smile. Work a series of whip-stitch-style surface stitches following the smile curve. Re-enter fabric at the other corner. Secure knot inside the head.

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

The axolotl is built in the following order:

1. **Head + Body + Tail** — worked as one continuous piece
2. **Four Legs** — worked separately, sewn on
3. **Dorsal Ridge** — worked flat, sewn along spine
4. **Tail Fin** — worked flat, inserted into tail before closing
5. **Six Gill Stalks** (3 per side) — worked as small tubes
6. **Gill Filaments** — worked as small flat strips, attached to stalks
7. **Nostril Bumps** — two tiny bobbles, sewn to snout
8. **Facial Embroidery** — smile, optional cheek blush

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## PART 1: HEAD AND BODY (Main Piece)

*Worked in MC unless otherwise noted. Work in continuous spiral.*

The head is worked flatter and wider than a standard amigurumi sphere. This is achieved by working more even (no increase/decrease) rounds at maximum width before tapering.

### SECTION A: SNOUT (Rounds 1–4)

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. Pull ring closed tight. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]

*The snout tapers wider from here — the axolotl's snout is blunt and round.*

### SECTION B: HEAD WIDENING (Rounds 5–9)

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30]

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36]

**Rnd 7:** Sc in each st around. [36] *(even round)*

**Rnd 8:** Sc in each st around. [36] *(even round)*

**Rnd 9:** Sc in each st around. [36] *(even round)*

*Working 3 even rounds at 36 sts creates the wide, flat "axolotl face" shape rather than a round sphere.*

### SECTION C: SAFETY EYE PLACEMENT

**Before working Rnd 10:** Insert safety eyes now.

- Count 10 stitches on either side of the top-center of the head.
- Place eyes at the very **top/sides of the head** rather than the front — axolotls have dorsally-placed eyes. Eyes should be approximately 10 stitches apart (measured across the top of the head), sitting between Rnds 8 and 9.
- Push shanks through fabric and lock safety backings securely on the inside.

*⚠️ Do not skip this step — the opening will become too small to insert eyes after Rnd 16.*

### SECTION D: HEAD CONTINUATION AND NECK (Rounds 10–15)

**Rnd 10:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30]

**Rnd 11:** Sc in each st around. [30] *(even round)*

**Rnd 12:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24]

**Rnd 13:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(even round)*

*Begin stuffing the head firmly now. The head should feel solid with no gaps. Add stuffing gradually as you decrease.*

**Rnd 14:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 15:** Sc in each st around. [18] *(this forms the neck — keep snug)*

### SECTION E: BODY WIDENING (Rounds 16–22)

The body expands wider than the head.

**Rnd 16:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]

**Rnd 17:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30]

**Rnd 18:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36]

**Rnd 19:** (5 sc, inc) around. [42]

**Rnd 20:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(even round)*

**Rnd 21:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(even round)*

**Rnd 22:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(even round)*

### SECTION F: BODY EVEN SECTION (Rounds 23–32)

**Rnds 23–32:** Sc in each st around for 10 rounds. [42] *(10 even rounds)*

*This long even section creates the axolotl's rounded barrel body. Continue stuffing firmly as you work.*

### SECTION G: BODY TAPER (Rounds 33–37)

**Rnd 33:** (5 sc, dec) around. [36]

**Rnd 34:** Sc in each st around. [36] *(even round)*

**Rnd 35:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30]

**Rnd 36:** Sc in each st around. [30] *(even round)*

**Rnd 37:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24]

### SECTION H: TAIL (Rounds 38–55)

The tail tapers gradually and then flattens. You will insert the Tail Fin piece before closing (see Part 4).

**Rnd 38:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(even round)*

**Rnd 39:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 40:** Sc in each st around. [18] *(even round)*

**Rnd 41:** Sc in each st around. [18] *(even round)*

**Rnd 42:** (1 sc, dec) around. [12]

**Rnd 43:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(even round)*

**Rnd 44:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(even round)*

**Rnd 45:** Dec around. [6]

*Now flatten the tail slightly with your fingers and insert the Tail Fin (see Part 4) before closing. Push the fin's base sc sts into the opening and sc them together with the remaining live stitches, OR close the opening with 6 sc decreases and sew the fin flat against the closed tail tip. Preferred method: close tail and sew fin on flat (easier for beginners at this step).*

**Fasten off,** leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for closing. Thread through remaining 6 stitches with yarn needle, pull snug, and weave in end. Add final stuffing to tail before closing completely — the tail should be lightly stuffed only (too firm and it won't drape naturally).

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## PART 2: LEGS (Make 4)

*All four legs are identical. Work in MC.*

Axolotl legs are short and stubby with 4 small "toes" on each front foot and 5 on each back foot. We'll create toe texture with surface chains after assembly.

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (1 sc, inc) around. [18] *(this creates the slightly widened "foot")*

**Rnd 4:** Sc in each st around. [18] *(even round — foot platform)*

**Rnd 5:** (1 sc, dec) around. [12]

**Rnd 6:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(even round)*

**Rnd 7:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(even round)*

**Rnd 8:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(even round — leg tube)*

**Rnd 9:** (2 sc, dec) around. [9]

**Rnd 10:** Sc in each st around. [9] *(even round)*

**Rnd 11:** Sc in each st around. [9] *(even round)*

**Fasten off,** leaving a 14-inch (36 cm) sewing tail.

Stuff legs lightly — front legs should feel somewhat flexible and soft. Back legs can be slightly firmer.

**Toe Detail (after assembly):** With AC1 or MC threaded on yarn needle, surface-embroider 3–4 small straight stitches radiating from the front edge of each foot to suggest toes. Front feet: 4 toes. Back feet: 5 toes.

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## PART 3: DORSAL RIDGE

*Worked flat in MC. The dorsal ridge runs from the back of the head to approximately the mid-tail.*

The axolotl has a low, smooth dorsal fin ridge that runs along its spine. This is worked as a flat crocheted strip with a gently scalloped edge.

**Foundation chain:** Ch 36.

**Row 1:** Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. [35 sc]

**Row 2 (Scallop Edge):** Ch 1, turn. *(2 sc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook — creates small point)* repeat across, ending with sc in last st. [Scalloped edge created]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 24-inch (61 cm) sewing tail.

*Assembly note: Pin the flat base of the ridge along the spine of the main body piece from approximately Rnd 14 (back of neck) to Rnd 44 (near tail tip). Whip stitch in place through the base chain with matching MC. The scalloped edge faces upward.*

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## PART 4: TAIL FIN

*Worked flat in MC. This is the wide flattened fin at the tail tip.*

**Foundation chain:** Ch 12.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. [11]

**Row 2:** Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. [13]

**Row 3:** Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. [15]

**Row 4:** Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [15] *(even)*

**Row 5:** Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [15] *(even)*

**Row 6:** Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc to last 2 sts, dec. [13]

**Row 7:** Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc to last 2 sts, dec. [11]

**Row 8:** Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc to last 2 sts, dec. [9]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 14-inch (36 cm) sewing tail.

*The tail fin is sewn flat against the closed end of the tail, centered vertically. The wide middle of the fin (Row 5) should align with the tail tip. Whip stitch around the entire perimeter of the fin base to the tail. The fin should lie flat, not perpendicular to the body — axolotls have a flattened tail fin that runs dorsal-to-ventral.*

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## PART 5: GILL STALKS (Make 6)

*3 per side. Work in MC. These are the "branches" that stick up from the head.*

Each gill stalk is a short tube that will have filaments attached.

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnds 3–8:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(6 even rounds — approx. 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm tall)*

**Fasten off,** leaving a 14-inch (36 cm) sewing tail. **Do not stuff.** The stalks should be flat/empty so they remain pliable and feathery.

*Advanced technique: For a thinner, more realistic stalk, you may work Rnds 3–8 with only 8 sts instead of 12 by working (1 sc, dec) around after Rnd 2 [8 sts], then working 6 even rounds of 8 sc. This creates a more slender stalk. Both versions are valid.*

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## PART 6: GILL FILAMENTS

*These are the branching "feathers" attached to each gill stalk.*

Each gill stalk gets **3 filaments** of varying lengths. The filaments are small flat strips worked in AC1 (magenta/dark rose) to contrast with the MC stalks.

### FILAMENT A (Long — Make 6 total, 1 per stalk)

**Foundation chain:** Ch 10.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. [9]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. *This small strip curls slightly when the chain edge is pulled — which is perfect for a feathery gill look.*

### FILAMENT B (Medium — Make 6 total, 1 per stalk)

**Foundation chain:** Ch 7.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. [6]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail.

### FILAMENT C (Short — Make 6 total, 1 per stalk)

**Foundation chain:** Ch 5.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. [4]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail.

**Attaching Filaments to Stalks:**
1. Arrange filaments A, B, and C from top to bottom on each stalk (long filament nearest the tip, short nearest the base).
2. Thread each filament's tail onto the yarn needle and sew through the side of the gill stalk at the appropriate height.
3. Pull snug and knot securely on the inside of the stalk, then weave in the end.
4. The filaments should fan outward from the stalk like a fern or feather.

*⚠️ Safety Note: If this toy is intended for children under 3, ensure all filaments are VERY securely attached (multiple passes through the stalk, tight knot) or substitute embroidered straight stitches for safety.*

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## PART 7: NOSTRIL BUMPS (Make 2)

*Worked in MC. Small surface bumps on the snout.*

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. Do not pull ring entirely closed — leave a small opening. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (1 sc, dec) around. [8]

**Fasten off,** leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) sewing tail. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing before closing. Thread tail through remaining stitches and pull snug.

*Placement: Sew one nostril bump on either side of the snout centerline, approximately 2 stitches apart, at approximately Rnd 3–4 of the main piece. The bumps should be subtle — don't overstuff.*

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## ASSEMBLY

### Tools Needed
- T-pins or ball-head pins
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- MC and matching yarn lengths for sewing

### Step 1: Attach Dorsal Ridge
Pin the dorsal ridge along the spine (center-top) of the main body from the back of the neck (approx. Rnd 14) to near the tail (approx. Rnd 44). The scalloped edge faces up. Whip stitch through the base chain with MC. Remove pins.

### Step 2: Attach Tail Fin
Pin the tail fin centered on the tail tip, lying flat. Whip stitch around the base of the fin onto the tail. The fin should lie in the same plane as the body (flat, not sticking out to the side).

### Step 3: Attach Front Legs
Front legs attach on the underside/lower sides of the body at approximately Rnd 20–22 (just behind the neck). Position them angling forward and downward.
- Pin in place and check symmetry from multiple angles.
- Sew on with whip stitch, working in a circle around the leg opening, then adding 3–4 stabilizing stitches through the body for security.

### Step 4: Attach Back Legs
Back legs attach at approximately Rnd 34–36, angling outward and slightly backward.
- Same sewing method as front legs.

### Step 5: Attach Gill Stalks
The gill stalks are the signature feature — placement is critical.
- **3 stalks per side**, positioned along the upper-rear of the head/neck junction, between Rnds 12–15 on the sides of the head.
- Arrangement: one stalk slightly forward, one center, one slightly back, fanning outward.
- Sew the base of each stalk firmly to the head using multiple passes of yarn through the stalk base into the head. Knot securely and bury the knot inside the main body.

*Pro tip: Use AC1 yarn to tack the lower half of each stalk gently against the head so the stalks fan upward and outward, rather than flopping.*

### Step 6: Attach Nostril Bumps
Sew nostril bumps to Rnd 3–4 of the snout, one on each side of center. Use whip stitch and bury the knot inside.

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## EMBROIDERY AND FINISHING

### The Smile
The axolotl's famous smile is wide, slightly upturned at both ends.

1. Thread yarn needle with AC1 (dark magenta).
2. Enter the head from inside at the right corner of the smile (approximately Rnd 7, 3 stitches to the right of center bottom of snout).
3. Work surface stitches in a gentle upward arc across approximately 6 stitches wide, ending at the left corner of the smile (Rnd 7, 3 stitches to the left of center).
4. The arc should peak at approximately Rnd 6 in the center (upward curve).
5. Work a second pass directly alongside the first for a bolder smile line.
6. Re-enter the fabric at the left corner and secure the knot firmly inside.

*Smile dimensions: approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide, 0.25 inches (6 mm) arc height at center.*

### Cheek Blush (Optional)
With a cotton swab and pink eye shadow, blush powder, or chalk pastel, lightly blush two circles on the cheeks — centered just below and forward of each eye. This adds significant charm.

### Spot/Speckle Detail (Optional — for Wild-Type Colorway)
With MC yarn threaded on needle, embroider small irregular French knots across the back and sides for the spotted appearance of wild-type axolotls.

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## FINISHING DETAILS

- Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely using the yarn needle.
- For any end that exits on the surface of the amigurumi, enter the body with the needle, travel through the stuffing for at least 1 inch (2.5 cm), and exit elsewhere before trimming — this buries the knot inside.
- Gently steam-block the gill filaments if they are too curly or not fanning correctly (hold steam iron 2 inches / 5 cm above, do not touch).

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## FINAL MEASUREMENTS (Verify Before Finishing)

| Part | Expected Measurement |
|---|---|
| Overall length (snout to tail tip) | 10–11 inches (25–28 cm) |
| Body width at widest point | approx. 3.5 inches (9 cm) diameter |
| Head width | approx. 3 inches (7.5 cm) diameter |
| Gill stalk height | approx. 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) |
| Leg length | approx. 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) |
| Tail fin width | approx. 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) |

*If your finished size is significantly different, your gauge differs from the stated gauge. This will not affect the structural integrity of the pattern — adjust expectations accordingly.*

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## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY (Technical Editor Verification)

| Round | Stitches | Section |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 | Snout |
| Rnd 2 | 12 | Snout |
| Rnd 3 | 18 | Snout |
| Rnd 4 | 24 | Snout |
| Rnd 5 | 30 | Head |
| Rnd 6 | 36 | Head |
| Rnds 7–9 | 36 | Head (even) |
| Rnd 10 | 30 | Head decrease |
| Rnd 11 | 30 | Head (even) |
| Rnd 12 | 24 | Head decrease |
| Rnd 13 | 24 | Head (even) |
| Rnd 14 | 18 | Head decrease |
| Rnd 15 | 18 | Neck (even) |
| Rnd 16 | 24 | Body increase |
| Rnd 17 | 30 | Body increase |
| Rnd 18 | 36 | Body increase |
| Rnd 19 | 42 | Body increase |
| Rnds 20–32 | 42 | Body (even × 13) |
| Rnd 33 | 36 | Body taper |
| Rnd 34 | 36 | Body taper (even) |
| Rnd 35 | 30 | Body taper |
| Rnd 36 | 30 | Body taper (even) |
| Rnd 37 | 24 | Body taper |
| Rnd 38 | 24 | Tail (even) |
| Rnd 39 | 18 | Tail taper |
| Rnds 40–41 | 18 | Tail (even × 2) |
| Rnd 42 | 12 | Tail taper |
| Rnds 43–44 | 12 | Tail (even × 2) |
| Rnd 45 | 6 | Close tail |

*All increase/decrease transitions verified: each +/− round changes count by exactly 6 stitches. ✅*

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## COLORWAY SUGGESTIONS

| Colorway | MC | AC1 | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Leucistic (Classic Pink)** | Pale peach or ballet pink | Deep magenta | Most popular, "classic" axolotl |
| **Wild-Type** | Olive brown or khaki | Black | Add French knot spots in black |
| **Golden Albino** | Pale yellow-gold | Orange-gold | Striking and uncommon |
| **Melanoid** | Charcoal gray | Dark gray | All dark — use lighter eyes |
| **GFP (Glowing)** | Pale mint green | Lime green | Fantasy colorway |

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## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Tight gauge is critical.** If you can see white stuffing through your stitches, your gauge is too loose. Go down a hook size.

2. **Mark your rounds.** With 45+ rounds on the main piece, losing track of your round is easy. Move your stitch marker religiously on every round.

3. **Stuff as you go.** Add stuffing every 5–6 rounds on the body. Don't wait until the end — you won't be able to push stuffing to the snout after the body has closed.

4. **Pin before sewing.** All 6 gill stalks, 4 legs, dorsal ridge, and tail fin should be pinned and checked for symmetry before a single stitch is sewn.

5. **Gill filaments are delicate.** Take your time sewing each one. If a filament pulls loose, it is a choking hazard. Double or triple-knot every filament.

6. **The smile makes the axolotl.** Take time with the embroidery. Rip it out and redo it if it doesn't look right — the smile is the most important detail.

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern with credit. Do not redistribute the written pattern itself.*