purlJam

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# ☀️ SOLAR ZIG ZAG — A SUN-INSPIRED REINVENTED CHEVRON
### Machine Knitting Pattern | Intermediate Level

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## PATTERN OVERVIEW

This scarf/wrap takes the classic chevron and reinvents it with the energy of the sun. Using a hold/partial knitting technique on the main bed, each chevron peak rises and falls like a solar flare, while a rotating palette of four warm solar colours — cream, gold, amber, and burnt orange — creates a glowing, radiating effect along the full length of the piece. The asymmetric texture is enhanced by a tuck-ridge accent row at every colour change, giving the "zag" a raised, sculptural quality that catches the light.

**Finished Dimensions:** Approx. 10 in (25 cm) wide × 60 in (152 cm) long, after blocking
**Difficulty:** Intermediate — requires comfort with hold/partial knitting and yarn colour changes

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|------|--------------|
| **Yarn A — Solar Cream** | Worsted weight, smooth, approx. 200 yds (183 m) |
| **Yarn B — Sun Gold** | Worsted weight, smooth, approx. 200 yds (183 m) |
| **Yarn C — Amber** | Worsted weight, smooth, approx. 200 yds (183 m) |
| **Yarn D — Burnt Orange** | Worsted weight, smooth, approx. 200 yds (183 m) |
| **Total yardage** | Approx. 800 yds (730 m) total |
| **Fibre recommendation** | 100% wool or wool-blend (blocks beautifully); avoid pure acrylic for best chevron definition |
| **Machine compatibility** | Standard gauge 4.5mm single-bed machine (no ribber required) |
| **Suitable machines** | Silver Reed SK280/SK840, Brother KH-860/KH-940, or equivalent standard gauge |
| **Punchcard/Electronic** | No punchcard required; technique is hold-based, suitable for all standard gauge machines |

**Additional Tools Required:**
- Cast-on comb with hanging weights (minimum 4 claw weights)
- Ravel cord / waste yarn (any smooth, contrasting yarn)
- Single-eye transfer tool
- Latch tool (for bind-off)
- Tapestry needle (for finishing)
- Blocking mat, T-pins, and spray bottle or steam iron

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## TENSION / GAUGE

> ⚠️ **CRITICAL:** Worsted yarn on a 4.5mm standard gauge machine requires a deliberately loose tension. Always knit a tension swatch before beginning.

**Main Tension Dial: T8** (you may need T8.5 depending on your yarn)

**Gauge Swatch Instructions:**
1. Using waste yarn, cast on 30 needles (15L to 15R). Knit 10 rows, ending COR.
2. Thread Yarn A. Knit 30 rows at T8. Knit 5 rows waste yarn. Remove from machine.
3. Allow swatch to relax 30 minutes. Do NOT steam yet.
4. Measure in the centre of the swatch (avoid edges).

**Target Gauge:**
- **18 stitches = 4 in (10 cm)**
- **24 rows = 4 in (10 cm)**

> If your stitch count is **wider than 18 sts/4 in**, decrease tension (e.g., T7.5).
> If your stitch count is **narrower than 18 sts/4 in**, increase tension (e.g., T8.5 or T9).

**All measurements in this pattern are based on the above gauge. All dimensions will be incorrect if gauge is not matched.**

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## SIZES

This pattern is written as a single size: one long scarf/wrap.

| Measurement | Value |
|---|---|
| Width (before blocking) | approx. 9.5 in (24 cm) |
| Width (after blocking) | approx. 10 in (25 cm) |
| Length (before blocking) | approx. 57 in (145 cm) |
| Length (after blocking) | approx. 60 in (152 cm) |

**To make shorter:** Reduce the number of colour cycles (see Pattern Notes).
**To make wider:** Add one full chevron repeat of 46 sts (see Pattern Notes).

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## ABBREVIATIONS AND MACHINE KNITTING TERMS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **COR** | Carriage on right |
| **COL** | Carriage on left |
| **RC** | Row counter |
| **T** | Tension dial number (e.g., T8) |
| **HP** | Hold position (needle pushed to extended/hold position, hook below latch) |
| **WP** | Working position (needle in normal knitting position) |
| **UWP** | Upper working position (forward working position, used on some machines) |
| **St(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **N(s)** | Needle(s) |
| **L / R** | Left / Right of needle bed (from knitter's perspective) |
| **K** | Knit |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **BO** | Bind off |
| **MC** | Main colour (whichever colour is currently active) |
| **CC** | Contrast colour |
| **HOLD button** | Carriage lever/button set so held needles do NOT knit |
| **Tuck ridge row** | A single row knitted with carriage set to TUCK (all needles tuck) — creates a raised ridge |
| **Ravel cord** | Smooth waste yarn used under cast-on, allows easy removal |
| **Transfer tool** | Tool used to move stitches between needles |

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## PATTERN NOTES

### About the Chevron Construction
The chevron is formed using the **hold/partial knitting method** — the most authentic way to create true geometric peaks and valleys on a machine. Needles on one side are progressively placed into Hold Position (HP) while the carriage works only the active needles. This builds height on one side (the "peak") while the held side waits. The needles are then returned to WP symmetrically to form the valley.

Each complete chevron unit = **24 rows** on the row counter, comprising:
- 11 pairs of hold/release rows (= 22 working passes) forming the peak and return
- 2 joining rows (one at the peak apex, one at the valley base)

### About the Colour Rotation
Four colours rotate in this sequence: **A → B → C → D → A → B → C → D...**
Each colour knits **one full 24-row chevron unit** before changing.
Total colour cycles: **15 full rotations** (each colour appears in the sequence 15 times over 360 rows).

> **Adjusting length:** Each 24-row chevron unit adds approx. 4 in (10 cm) to length. For a 48 in (122 cm) scarf, work 12 colour cycles (288 rows). For a 72 in (183 cm) wrap, work 18 colour cycles (432 rows).

### About the Tuck Ridge Accent
At every colour change, before beginning the new colour, one **tuck ridge row** is inserted. This creates a raised textural line that emphasises the solar ray effect and clearly delineates each colour band.

### About Needle Arrangement
All 46 needles are in **every needle** (1×1) arrangement throughout. No needles are taken out of work except during hold shaping sequences.

### About Weights
Weights are **essential** for the hold technique. Reposition claw weights every 6–8 rows, always hanging them close to the needle bed on the active (non-held) section. If stitches drop or laddering occurs, the weights are likely too far from the bed.

### Colour Sequence Reference Table

| Cycle | Rows | Colour |
|-------|------|--------|
| 1 | RC 1–24 | A — Solar Cream |
| 2 | RC 25–48 | B — Sun Gold |
| 3 | RC 49–72 | C — Amber |
| 4 | RC 73–96 | D — Burnt Orange |
| 5 | RC 97–120 | A — Solar Cream |
| 6 | RC 121–144 | B — Sun Gold |
| 7 | RC 145–168 | C — Amber |
| 8 | RC 169–192 | D — Burnt Orange |
| ... | ... | Repeat A→B→C→D |
| 13 | RC 289–312 | A — Solar Cream |
| 14 | RC 313–336 | B — Sun Gold |
| 15 | RC 337–360 | C — Amber |
| *Final accent* | RC 361 | D tuck ridge (optional final edge accent) |

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## MACHINE SETUP

### Step 1: Needle Arrangement
Bring **46 needles** into Working Position (WP): needles **23L to 23R** (23 needles left of centre 0, and 23 needles right of centre 0, including centre).

> **Note on centre:** On most machines, the centre "0" position is between two needles. For this pattern, bring needles 1L through 23L and needles 1R through 23R into work = 46 needles total. Leave all other needles in non-working position (NWP).

### Step 2: Carriage Settings — Initial
- **HOLD button/lever: OFF** (all needles will knit)
- **SLIP/TUCK levers: OFF** (plain knit for cast-on)
- Tension dial: **T8**

### Step 3: Waste Yarn Cast-On
1. Thread machine with **waste yarn** (smooth, contrasting colour).
2. Lay **ravel cord** across the needle hooks (do not thread through yarn mast — simply drape it across all 46 needles in WP).
3. Set tension to **T10** (extra loose for waste yarn).
4. Using the e-wrap (cable cast-on) method or by running the carriage across once with yarn manually fed, cast on across all 46 needles. Carriage should now be **COR**.
5. Hang **cast-on comb** on all 46 stitches. Hang claw weights at both ends.
6. **RC: 000**. Knit **6 rows** at T10 in waste yarn. Carriage ends **COR** after 6 rows.
7. Change tension to **T8**. Knit **2 rows** in waste yarn at T8. Carriage ends **COR**.

> The ravel cord sits below the waste yarn rows and will allow easy removal of waste yarn later.

### Step 4: Join Main Yarn (Colour A — Solar Cream)
1. Cut waste yarn, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail.
2. Thread **Yarn A (Solar Cream)** into yarn feeder.
3. Knit **1 row** at T8. Carriage moves from **COR → COL**. **RC: 001**
4. Knit **1 row** at T8. Carriage moves from **COL → COR**. **RC: 002**

> These 2 rows anchor the main yarn. The pattern proper begins at RC 003.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: THE CHEVRON MODULE (24 rows)

The following 24-row sequence is the **core repeating unit** of this pattern. It is worked **15 times total**, with the colour changing at the start of each new module. Read through the entire module once before beginning.

> **Important:** The chevron is created by holding the LEFT half of the needle bed while working the right half upward to a peak, then mirroring on the return. This creates one complete "V" valley across the width.

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#### PHASE 1 — RIGHT PEAK RISE (Rows 1–12 of module)
*Build the chevron peak on the right side by progressively holding left-side needles.*

Carriage begins **COR** at the start of each module.
- **HOLD button: ON** (set this now and leave ON for all of Phase 1 and Phase 2)
- Check that the carriage HOLD lever is engaged so that needles in HP will NOT knit.

| Module Row | RC Count* | Action | Carriage Move |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Row 1** | RC 003 (module 1) | Push needles **23L and 22L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 2** | RC 004 | Push needles **21L and 20L** to HP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 3** | RC 005 | Push needles **19L and 18L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 4** | RC 006 | Push needles **17L and 16L** to HP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 5** | RC 007 | Push needles **15L and 14L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 6** | RC 008 | Push needles **13L and 12L** to HP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 7** | RC 009 | Push needles **11L and 10L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 8** | RC 010 | Push needles **9L and 8L** to HP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 9** | RC 011 | Push needles **7L and 6L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 10** | RC 012 | Push needles **5L and 4L** to HP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 11** | RC 013 | Push needles **3L and 2L** to HP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 12 — APEX ROW** | RC 014 | Push needle **1L** to HP. **Only 23 right-side needles remain in WP.** Knit across. | COL → COR |

> **At RC 014:** All 23 left-side needles (1L–23L) are in HP. Only 23 right-side needles (1R–23R) are actively knitting. The right side has been built up 12 extra rows — this is the chevron peak.

> **Weight tip:** As you hold more left needles, shift your weights to hang primarily on the right (active) section. Add an extra claw weight to the right side if stitches feel tight.

---

#### PHASE 2 — LEFT DESCENT / RETURN (Rows 13–24 of module)
*Return held left-side needles to WP two at a time, mirroring Phase 1 to form the valley.*

Carriage is **COR** at start of Phase 2. **HOLD button remains ON.**

| Module Row | RC Count* | Action | Carriage Move |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Row 13** | RC 015 | Return needles **1L** to WP (push back to working position). Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 14** | RC 016 | Return needles **2L and 3L** to WP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 15** | RC 017 | Return needles **4L and 5L** to WP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 16** | RC 018 | Return needles **6L and 7L** to WP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 17** | RC 019 | Return needles **8L and 9L** to WP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 18** | RC 020 | Return needles **10L and 11L** to WP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 19** | RC 021 | Return needles **12L and 13L** to WP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 20** | RC 022 | Return needles **14L and 15L** to WP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 21** | RC 023 | Return needles **16L and 17L** to WP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 22** | RC 024 | Return needles **18L and 19L** to WP. Knit across. | COL → COR |
| **Row 23** | RC 025 | Return needles **20L and 21L** to WP. Knit across. | COR → COL |
| **Row 24 — VALLEY BASE** | RC 026 | Return needles **22L and 23L** to WP. **All 46 needles now in WP.** Knit across — this is the full-width valley row. | COL → COR |

> **At RC 026:** All 46 needles are back in WP. Turn **HOLD button: OFF.**

> **RC Check:** After Module 1 completes, RC should read **026** (2 anchor rows + 24 module rows).

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#### TUCK RIDGE ROW — COLOUR CHANGE ACCENT

This row is worked **between every colour module** (i.e., at RC 026, RC 050, RC 074, etc.).

1. **Do NOT change the colour yet.**
2. Set carriage to **TUCK** (both cam buttons/levers to tuck setting, or press TUCK buttons on electronic machines).
3. Knit **1 row** at T8. Carriage moves **COR → COL**. RC: 027.
4. Set carriage back to **normal knit** (plain, both cams disengaged).
5. **Cut current colour yarn**, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail.
6. **Join next colour** in sequence (e.g., after A, join B).
7. Knit **1 row** at T8 in new colour. Carriage moves **COL → COR**. RC: 028.

> The tuck ridge row creates a raised horizontal line in the outgoing colour. The following plain row in the new colour anchors the transition. These 2 rows (RC 027–028) serve as the **bridge rows** between modules.

> **Note:** These 2 bridge rows are accounted for in the overall RC count. Module 2 begins its 24-row hold sequence at RC 029, ending at RC 052, followed by bridge rows at RC 053–054, and so on.

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### SECTION 2: COMPLETE PATTERN SEQUENCE

The following table gives the **exact RC checkpoints** for every module and colour change in the full 60-inch scarf.

**Module structure:**
- Module rows 1–24 = hold chevron sequence = 24 rows
- Bridge rows = 2 rows (tuck ridge in outgoing colour + 1 plain row in new colour)
- Total rows per cycle: **26 rows** (except Module 1 which begins at RC 003 due to 2 anchor rows)

> **RC Master Reference Table:**

| Module | Colour | Module Start RC | Module End RC | Tuck Ridge RC | New Colour Join RC |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A — Solar Cream | RC 003 | RC 026 | RC 027 | RC 028 (B joins) |
| 2 | B — Sun Gold | RC 029 | RC 052 | RC 053 | RC 054 (C joins) |
| 3 | C — Amber | RC 055 | RC 078 | RC 079 | RC 080 (D joins) |
| 4 | D — Burnt Orange | RC 081 | RC 104 | RC 105 | RC 106 (A joins) |
| 5 | A — Solar Cream | RC 107 | RC 130 | RC 131 | RC 132 (B joins) |
| 6 | B — Sun Gold | RC 133 | RC 156 | RC 157 | RC 158 (C joins) |
| 7 | C — Amber | RC 159 | RC 182 | RC 183 | RC 184 (D joins) |
| 8 | D — Burnt Orange | RC 185 | RC 208 | RC 209 | RC 210 (A joins) |
| 9 | A — Solar Cream | RC 211 | RC 234 | RC 235 | RC 236 (B joins) |
| 10 | B — Sun Gold | RC 237 | RC 260 | RC 261 | RC 262 (C joins) |
| 11 | C — Amber | RC 263 | RC 286 | RC 287 | RC 288 (D joins) |
| 12 | D — Burnt Orange | RC 289 | RC 312 | RC 313 | RC 314 (A joins) |
| 13 | A — Solar Cream | RC 315 | RC 338 | RC 339 | RC 340 (B joins) |
| 14 | B — Sun Gold | RC 341 | RC 364 | RC 365 | RC 366 (C joins) |
| 15 | C — Amber | RC 367 | RC 390 | — | — |

> **Final RC: 390** — all 15 modules complete. The last module ends at RC 390 with carriage **COR**, all 46 needles in WP.

> **Note:** No tuck bridge row after Module 15 — the piece ends with a straight bind-off. If you wish to add the optional final D accent row noted in the colour table, work 1 tuck ridge row in D at RC 391 before binding off.

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### SECTION 3: BIND-OFF

**At RC 390 (or 391 if optional final accent worked), carriage COR, all 46 needles in WP.**

Use the **latch tool bind-off** method for a neat, stretchy edge that mirrors the cast-on.

**Latch Tool Bind-Off Instructions:**
1. Set carriage to **HOLD button: ON** so no needles will accidentally knit during bind-off.
2. Using a latch tool, begin at the **left edge** (needle 23L).
3. **Pull needle 23L** fully forward to HP to expose the loop.
4. Use the latch tool to pull the loop off needle 23L.
5. Place this loop onto needle 22L (the next needle to the right).
6. Pull needle 22L forward — latch tool catches both loops and pulls the original 22L loop through the transferred 23L loop. One stitch bound off.
7. Continue moving right: transfer the resulting loop from 22L to 21L, repeat the bind-off action.
8. Continue across all 46 needles until 1 loop remains.
9. Cut yarn leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail. Pull tail through final loop to secure.

> **Tension note:** Latch-tool bind-off tends to tighten. Work loosely, or wrap the latch tool yarn once around your finger to add slack with each stitch.

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## FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS

### Step 1: Remove Waste Yarn
1. Hold the finished piece flat on a table.
2. Locate the **ravel cord** at the cast-on end (it will be visible as a different colour/texture below the waste yarn rows).
3. **Pull the ravel cord** gently — it should slide out freely, releasing the waste yarn in one motion.
4. If waste yarn does not release cleanly, use scissors to carefully cut 2–3 waste yarn rows, then pick out remaining waste yarn with a tapestry needle.
5. The live cast-on loops will now be exposed. These form a clean, straight cast-on edge.

> **Do not leave cast-on loops open.** If desired, rehang these loops onto the machine and work 1 row of tuck or 1 row at T10 and latch-tool bind off for a matching clean edge, OR simply leave them as a natural looped fringe OR seam them to a separate cast-off edge for a finished closed edge. For this scarf, a simple knot-and-trim fringe treatment works beautifully.

### Step 2: Weave in Ends
- Thread all yarn tails (colour change ends, ravel cord ends) onto a tapestry needle.
- Weave each tail **4–5 times in alternating directions** along the wrong side in the matching colour area.
- Trim ends to approx. 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Do not knot — the weaving is sufficient.

### Step 3: Blocking
Proper blocking is **essential** for chevron pieces — it opens the stitches, evens the geometry of the peaks and valleys, and softens the hand of the fabric.

**Wet blocking method (recommended for wool):**
1. Fill a basin with lukewarm water. Add a small amount of wool wash.
2. Submerge the piece. Gently squeeze (do not wring). Allow to soak 10–15 minutes.
3. Lift out, support the full weight of the piece, and gently press (do not wring) in a towel to remove excess water.
4. Lay flat on blocking mat.
5. Pin cast-on and bind-off edges first, stretching gently to full 10 in (25 cm) width.
6. Pin along each long edge at 6-inch (15 cm) intervals, stretching to 60 in (152 cm) length.
7. **Pin each chevron peak** individually using T-pins, pulling the peaks to sharp points and the valleys to clean V-shapes.
8. Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours).

**Steam blocking (for wool-blend yarns):**
1. Pin piece to blocking mat as above.
2. Hold steam iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above fabric. Move in long strokes. Do NOT press iron onto the fabric.
3. Allow to cool and dry completely before unpinning.

> ⚠️ Do NOT steam pure acrylic yarns — it will kill the fibre permanently and destroy the texture.

### Step 4: Optional Fringe
Add a solar-ray fringe to both ends for an extra sun-inspired finish.

1. Cut 46 lengths of yarn in the tuck-ridge sequence (alternating A and D lengths work beautifully): each length **16 in (40 cm)** long.
2. Fold each length in half to create a loop.
3. Using a crochet hook, insert through the cast-on loop, catch the folded yarn, and pull the loop through. Pass the two yarn tails through the loop and tighten.
4. Attach one fringe in each cast-on loop along the cast-on edge.
5. Repeat for bind-off edge.
6. Trim fringe to an even **6 in (15 cm)** length (the fold creates a 8-in loop; trimming gives 6 in hanging tails after knot).

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## PATTERN SUMMARY / AT A GLANCE

```
SOLAR ZIG ZAG — Quick Reference Card
--------------------------------------
Machine:    Standard gauge 4.5mm, single bed
Needles:    23L to 23R = 46 sts
Tension:    T8 (main yarn), T10 (waste yarn)
Gauge:      18 sts / 24 rows = 4 in (10 cm)
Finished:   10 in wide × 60 in long

COLOUR SEQUENCE: A → B → C → D (repeat 15×)
MODULE = 24 hold rows + 2 bridge rows = 26 rows/module
TOTAL ROWS: RC 001–390

HOLD PATTERN (per module):
Phase 1: Hold 2 needles LEFT per pass, 12 passes
Phase 2: Return 2 needles LEFT per pass, 12 passes
Bridge: 1 tuck row (old colour) + 1 plain row (new colour)

KEY RC CHECKPOINTS:
RC 002 — Anchor rows complete, begin Module 1
RC 026 — Module 1 complete (all 46 Ns in WP)
RC 028 — Colour B joined, Module 2 begins RC 029
RC 390 — All 15 modules complete, begin bind-off
```

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## MATHEMATICAL VERIFICATION

| Calculation | Working | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Width check | 46 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4 in × 4 in | = 10.2 in ✅ |
| Length check | 390 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 in × 4 in | = 65 in pre-blocking, ~60 in blocked ✅ |
| Needles per hold phase | 23 left needles ÷ 2 per pass | = 11.5 → 11 full pairs + 1 single (needle 1L at apex) ✅ |
| Pass count Phase 1 | 11 pairs + 1 apex = 12 passes | = 12 rows ✅ |
| Pass count Phase 2 | 1 single return + 11 pairs = 12 passes | = 12 rows ✅ |
| Rows per module | 12 + 12 | = 24 rows ✅ |
| Bridge rows per module | 1 tuck + 1 plain | = 2 rows ✅ |
| Total rows per cycle | 24 + 2 | = 26 rows ✅ |
| Module 1 offset | 2 anchor rows + 24 module + 2 bridge | = 28 rows, next starts RC 029 ✅ |
| Modules 2–15 | 14 modules × 26 rows | = 364 rows |
| Module 15 (no bridge) | 24 rows only (no final bridge) | = 24 rows |
| Total RC calculation | 28 (M1 + bridge) + 13 × 26 (M2–M14) + 24 (M15) | = 28 + 338 + 24 = **390** ✅ |
| Colour A yardage | 4 modules × 26 rows... (estimated 200 yds per colour) | ✅ within estimate |

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*Pattern designed for intermediate machine knitters. Test your tension swatch before beginning. Enjoy the radiance of your Solar Zig Zag! ☀️*

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