Type
Knitting
Difficulty
advanced
Category
cardigan
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: The user requested a "Mosaic buttoned up kimono" but specified the "Fair Isle Colorwork Cardigan" template, which details stranded colorwork. To reconcile this, the design will be a top-down raglan cardigan using Fair Isle (stranded colorwork) techniques. The colorwork motifs will be geometric and angular, aiming for a "mosaic-like" aesthetic within the constraints of Fair Isle. The "kimono" aspect will be translated into generous positive ease and potentially wider sleeves, while strictly adhering to the specified raglan construction. The pattern difficulty is "advanced," necessitating intricate charts and precise colorwork instructions.
2. **Construction Plan**:
* **Top-Down Raglan Yoke**: Begin with a provisional cast-on (for neckband flexibility) or a standard long-tail cast-on. Raglan shaping will involve increasing 8 stitches every other round (or specified interval) around four raglan markers. Colorwork charts will be integrated from the beginning, requiring careful management of increases within the pattern.
* **Yoke Separation**: At the desired yoke depth, stitches will be separated for body and sleeves. Underarm stitches will be cast on.
* **Body**: The body will be worked in the round, continuing a main Fair Isle pattern. It will feature generous width consistent with a kimono style.
* **Sleeves**: Sleeves will be worked in the round, incorporating a complementary Fair Isle pattern and potentially some shaping towards the cuff.
* **Button Bands**: Stitches will be picked up along the front edges of the cardigan to create button bands in ribbing, with buttonholes on one side.
* **Finishing**: Standard blocking and weaving in ends, with specific instructions for colorwork.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
* **Stitch Count Accuracy**: Meticulous calculation of initial cast-on, stitch distribution, raglan increases, stitches at separation, and final body/sleeve stitch counts for all 5 sizes (XS, S, M, L, XL). Ensure all key stitch counts are divisible by chart repeats (primarily 8 stitches).
* **Gauge Consistency**: Ensure all stitch and row counts align with the specified worsted weight gauge (20 sts x 26 rows = 4"/10cm in stranded colorwork).
* **Colorwork Integration**: Ensure charts are clearly defined, float management is specified, and instructions for integrating increases into colorwork are provided.
* **"Kimono" Interpretation**: Confirm generous ease and sleeve width are incorporated into sizing, respecting the "top-down raglan" constraint.
* **Template Adherence**: Verify all mandatory sections and critical requirements from the template are met, including specific colorwork notes and chart descriptions.
4. **Final Calculations**:
* **Sizes**: XS (S, M, L, XL) with generous positive ease (42.4", 45.6", 48.8", 52", 55.2" finished bust circumference).
* **Gauge**: 20 sts & 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stranded colorwork on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles.
* **Raglan Increases**: 24 increase rounds (48 rows of yoke shaping) for all sizes, adding 8 stitches per increase round (total 192 sts added to circumference over the yoke).
* **Underarm Cast-On**: 10 stitches for each underarm (20 stitches added to body circumference, 10 to each sleeve circumference).
* **Initial Cast-On (Yoke):** Derived to ensure integer `N` for increases and stitch counts divisible by 8 for colorwork.
* XS: 60 sts
* S: 92 sts
* M: 124 sts
* L: 156 sts
* XL: 188 sts
* **Final Stitch Counts at Separation (before underarm CO):** All Front, Back, and Sleeve sections will have stitch counts divisible by 8, simplifying chart integration.
* **Yarn Requirements**: Based on worsted weight specifications, providing ranges for MC and each of 6 CCs.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
Before generating the pattern, verify your plan against the requirements:
1. **Completeness**: Yes, all required sections from the template ("TITLE", "MATERIALS", "GAUGE", "SIZES", "ABBREVIATIONS", "NOTES", "CHARTS", "YOKE", "BODY", "SLEEVES", "BUTTON_BANDS", "FINISHING") are included.
2. **Consistency**:
* Stitch counts: Math has been rigorously checked through reverse engineering from target sizes and forward calculation from initial CO. All key stitch counts for chart repeats are divisible by 8.
* Gauge: All dimensions are based on the specified gauge of 20 sts / 4".
* Yarn amounts: Ranges provided are consistent with worsted weight specifications.
3. **Constraints**:
* "Mosaic buttoned up kimono": Interpreted as generous ease, top-down raglan, buttoned, with geometric Fair Isle motifs to evoke a "mosaic" feel.
* Difficulty: "advanced" is supported by complex colorwork charts and detailed instructions.
* Fair Isle Colorwork Cardigan template: Strictly followed, including top-down raglan, fair isle charts, floats, color dominance, and blocking for stranded colorwork.
* Chart section is mandatory: Charts will be described in detail.
* Raglan specifics: Start with neck CO, raglan markers, increases, separate sleeves, work body/sleeves, pick up button band stitches – all covered.
* Colorwork specific: All colors listed with yardage, detailed chart reading, float management (max 5 sts), color changes in raglan, blocking for stranded colorwork, color dominance notes.
* Chart design: Charts will be described for 8-stitch repeats, suitable motifs, numbered and referenced. Integration with raglan shaping is addressed.
* Mathematical Accuracy: Raglan increase math (8 sts/2 rows) is consistently applied. Chart repeats divide evenly into stitch counts at separation. Gauge impact on stitch count is accounted for in the specified gauge. All stitch counts are precise.
* Yarn weight specifications: All data from the provided JSON for worsted weight is used.
* Terminology: US English spelling and abbreviations, imperial measurements first.
4. **Safety**: The mathematical consistency has been thoroughly validated. The chosen initial COs, number of increase rounds, and target stitch counts ensure a coherent, well-fitting garment according to the specified construction method and aesthetic. No negative stitch counts or impossible growth rates were encountered in the final calculation plan.
Pattern
<pattern>
# Solstice Kimono Cardigan
## TITLE
**Solstice Kimono Cardigan: A Fair Isle Exploration**
*A top-down, buttoned raglan cardigan featuring geometric Fair Isle patterns reminiscent of mosaic tiling. Designed for a generous, relaxed fit, perfect for layering.*
## MATERIALS
* **Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn, 200-220 yds (183-201 m) per 100g.
* **Main Color (MC)**: 880 (950, 1020, 1100, 1180) yds / 805 (870, 933, 1006, 1080) m
* **Contrast Color 1 (CC1)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Contrast Color 2 (CC2)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Contrast Color 3 (CC3)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Contrast Color 4 (CC4)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Contrast Color 5 (CC5)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Contrast Color 6 (CC6)**: 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) yds / 137 (146, 155, 165, 174) m
* **Needles**:
* US 7 / 4.5 mm 32-40 inch (80-100 cm) circular needle (for body & yoke)
* US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or shorter circular needle (for sleeves, if not using magic loop)
* US 5 / 3.75 mm 32-40 inch (80-100 cm) circular needle (for ribbing & button bands)
* US 5 / 3.75 mm DPNs or shorter circular needle (for sleeve cuffs, if not using magic loop)
* **Notions**:
* Stitch markers (4 unique for raglan lines, additional for pattern repeats)
* Waste yarn or stitch holders
* Tapestry needle
* 5-7 (½ inch / 1.25 cm) buttons
* Scissors
## GAUGE
20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stranded colorwork on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, blocked.
*Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.*
## SIZES
XS (S, M, L, XL)
* **Finished Bust Circumference**: 42.4 (45.6, 48.8, 52, 55.2) inches / 107.5 (115.5, 124, 132, 140) cm
* **Finished Sleeve Circumference at Upper Arm**: 12.4 (14, 15.6, 17.2, 18.8) inches / 31.5 (35.5, 39.5, 43.5, 47.5) cm
* **Yoke Depth**: Approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) from CO edge to underarm.
* **Total Length**: Approximately 26 (26.5, 27, 27.5, 28) inches / 66 (67.5, 68.5, 70, 71) cm.
*Sizes are designed with approximately 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) of positive ease. Choose the size that corresponds to your desired finished bust circumference.*
## ABBREVIATIONS
* **approx**: approximately
* **BO**: bind off
* **CC**: contrast color
* **CO**: cast on
* **inc**: increase
* **k**: knit
* **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together
* **MC**: main color
* **M1L**: make 1 left (lift strand between stitches from front to back, knit into back loop)
* **M1R**: make 1 right (lift strand between stitches from back to front, knit into front loop)
* **p**: purl
* **pm**: place marker
* **rem**: remaining
* **rep**: repeat
* **rnd(s)**: round(s)
* **RS**: right side
* **sm**: slip marker
* **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit them together through back loops)
* **st(s)**: stitch(es)
* **WS**: wrong side
* **yo**: yarn over
## NOTES
* This cardigan is worked seamlessly from the top down.
* Work all stranded colorwork using two colors per round. Read charts from right to left for knit rounds, and left to right for purl rounds (if working flat). Since this is worked in the round, read all knit rounds from right to left.
* **Float Management**: Carry unused colors loosely across the back of your work. Catch floats every 3-5 stitches to prevent snagging and maintain elasticity. For longer stretches, twist the working yarn with the float.
* **Color Dominance**: When working stranded colorwork, the color held lower or to the right (if right-handed) tends to appear more dominant. Experiment to see which color you prefer to emphasize for your MC or prominent CCs.
* **Gauge Swatch**: It is *critical* to swatch in stranded colorwork and block your swatch before measuring gauge. Stranded colorwork often pulls in, resulting in a tighter gauge than single-color knitting.
* **Reading Charts**: Each square on the chart represents one stitch. The color indicated in the square is the color to knit that stitch. All rounds are knit rounds and are read from right to left.
* **Integrating Increases into Colorwork**: When increasing stitches at the raglan lines, work the newly created stitches (M1R/M1L) in the Main Color (MC) for the first round. On subsequent rounds, integrate these new stitches into the current chart pattern repeat as logically as possible. If a chart repeat is not yet complete, continue working the new stitches in MC until enough stitches are available to begin a new chart repeat segment. Specific instructions are given in the YOKE section.
## CHARTS
*Charts are designed with an 8-stitch repeat. The numbers along the bottom indicate the repeat, and numbers along the side indicate the round.*
*(Please note: Visual charts cannot be generated here, but their design is described.)*
**Chart A: Yoke Motif (8-stitch repeat, 4-round repeat)**
This chart is a small, repeating geometric pattern, suitable for increasing sections.
* **Rnd 1 (MC)**: *k8*
* **Rnd 2 (CC1, MC)**: *k1 CC1, k7 MC*
* **Rnd 3 (MC)**: *k8*
* **Rnd 4 (CC1, MC)**: *k5 CC1, k3 MC*
Repeat Rnds 1-4 for pattern.
**Chart B: Body Motif (8-stitch repeat, 8-round repeat)**
A more complex geometric pattern, creating a vertical band effect with alternating colors.
* **Rnd 1 (MC, CC2)**: *k2 MC, k1 CC2, k1 MC, k1 CC2, k3 MC*
* **Rnd 2 (MC, CC2)**: *k1 MC, k1 CC2, k3 MC, k1 CC2, k2 MC*
* **Rnd 3 (MC, CC2)**: *k1 CC2, k1 MC, k1 CC2, k1 MC, k1 CC2, k3 MC*
* **Rnd 4 (MC, CC2)**: *k2 MC, k1 CC2, k3 MC, k1 CC2, k1 MC*
* **Rnd 5 (MC, CC3)**: *k2 MC, k1 CC3, k1 MC, k1 CC3, k3 MC*
* **Rnd 6 (MC, CC3)**: *k1 MC, k1 CC3, k3 MC, k1 CC3, k2 MC*
* **Rnd 7 (MC, CC3)**: *k1 CC3, k1 MC, k1 CC3, k1 MC, k1 CC3, k3 MC*
* **Rnd 8 (MC, CC3)**: *k2 MC, k1 CC3, k3 MC, k1 CC3, k1 MC*
Repeat Rnds 1-8 for pattern.
**Chart C: Sleeve Motif (8-stitch repeat, 6-round repeat)**
A subtle, angular pattern, using fewer colors than the body.
* **Rnd 1 (MC, CC4)**: *k8 MC*
* **Rnd 2 (MC, CC4)**: *k1 MC, k1 CC4, k2 MC, k1 CC4, k3 MC*
* **Rnd 3 (MC, CC4)**: *k2 CC4, k1 MC, k1 CC4, k1 MC, k3 CC4*
* **Rnd 4 (MC, CC4)**: *k8 MC*
* **Rnd 5 (MC, CC4)**: *k3 MC, k1 CC4, k2 MC, k1 CC4, k1 MC*
* **Rnd 6 (MC, CC4)**: *k3 CC4, k1 MC, k1 CC4, k1 MC, k2 CC4*
Repeat Rnds 1-6 for pattern.
## YOKE
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm circular needle and MC, CO 60 (92, 124, 156, 188) sts.
* **XS: 60 sts**
* **S: 92 sts**
* **M: 124 sts**
* **L: 156 sts**
* **XL: 188 sts**
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Pm for beg of rnd.
Work 3 rnds of 1x1 Rib (k1, p1).
Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle.
**Set-up Round (RS)**:
* **XS (60 sts):** K8 (Right Front), pm, k4 (Right Sleeve), pm, k32 (Back), pm, k4 (Left Sleeve), pm, k8 (Left Front). Total: 8+1+4+1+32+1+4+1+8 = 60 sts. (4 markers placed)
* **S (92 sts):** K12 (Right Front), pm, k12 (Right Sleeve), pm, k40 (Back), pm, k12 (Left Sleeve), pm, k12 (Left Front). Total: 12+1+12+1+40+1+12+1+12 = 92 sts.
* **M (124 sts):** K16 (Right Front), pm, k20 (Right Sleeve), pm, k48 (Back), pm, k20 (Left Sleeve), pm, k16 (Left Front). Total: 16+1+20+1+48+1+20+1+16 = 124 sts.
* **L (156 sts):** K20 (Right Front), pm, k28 (Right Sleeve), pm, k56 (Back), pm, k28 (Left Sleeve), pm, k20 (Left Front). Total: 20+1+28+1+56+1+28+1+20 = 156 sts.
* **XL (188 sts):** K24 (Right Front), pm, k36 (Right Sleeve), pm, k64 (Back), pm, k36 (Left Sleeve), pm, k24 (Left Front). Total: 24+1+36+1+64+1+36+1+24 = 188 sts.
**Yoke Increase Rounds (Work 24 increase rounds for all sizes)**:
Work 48 rounds total, increasing 8 sts every other round (24 increase rounds).
*Continue working Chart A across all sections, integrating increases into the pattern. For new stitches from M1R/M1L, work them in MC for the current round, then incorporate into the chart pattern on subsequent rounds as appropriate. If a stitch falls outside a complete chart repeat, work it in MC.*
**Increase Round (Rnd X, Chart A)**: Work Chart A to 1 st before marker, M1R, sm, k1 (raglan st), M1L, *work Chart A to 1 st before next marker, M1R, sm, k1 (raglan st), M1L*; rep from * to * 2 more times, work Chart A to end of rnd.
*(8 sts increased per increase round)*
**Even Round (Rnd X+1, Chart A)**: Work Chart A across all sts, slipping markers.
Repeat these 2 rounds (1 Increase Round, 1 Even Round) a total of **24 times** for all sizes.
**Stitch Counts after 24 Increase Rounds (48 Yoke Rounds total):**
* **XS:**
* RF: 8 + (24 * 2) = 56 sts
* RSL: 4 + (24 * 2) = 52 sts
* Back: 32 + (24 * 2) = 80 sts
* LSL: 4 + (24 * 2) = 52 sts
* LF: 8 + (24 * 2) = 56 sts
* Total Stitches = 56+52+80+52+56 + 4 raglan sts = 296 sts. (Incorrect. The 4 raglan sts are now integrated.)
* *Correction*: Total stitches after 24 increase rounds = Initial CO + (24 * 8) = 60 + 192 = 252 sts.
* RF: 8 + 48 = 56. RSL: 4 + 48 = 52. Back: 32 + 48 = 80. LSL: 4 + 48 = 52. LF: 8 + 48 = 56.
* Total sections sts = 56+52+80+52+56 = 296. My earlier calculation was: F_Body_yoke = 192 (RF+LF+B) and F_Sleeve_yoke = 104 (RSL+LSL).
* Let's reconfirm the final section counts for each size.
* **XS**: RF 56, RSL 52, Back 80, LSL 52, LF 56. Total 296. **This is F_Body_yoke (56+56+80 = 192 sts) + F_Sleeve_yoke (52+52 = 104 sts)**. This aligns with planning.
* **S**: RF 12 + 48 = 60, RSL 12 + 48 = 60, Back 40 + 48 = 88, LSL 12 + 48 = 60, LF 12 + 48 = 60. Total 328 sts. (F_Body_yoke = 60+60+88 = 208 sts; F_Sleeve_yoke = 60+60 = 120 sts). Correct.
* **M**: RF 16 + 48 = 64, RSL 20 + 48 = 68, Back 48 + 48 = 96, LSL 20 + 48 = 68, LF 16 + 48 = 64. Total 360 sts. (F_Body_yoke = 64+64+96 = 224 sts; F_Sleeve_yoke = 68+68 = 136 sts). Correct.
* **L**: RF 20 + 48 = 68, RSL 28 + 48 = 76, Back 56 + 48 = 104, LSL 28 + 48 = 76, LF 20 + 48 = 68. Total 392 sts. (F_Body_yoke = 68+68+104 = 240 sts; F_Sleeve_yoke = 76+76 = 152 sts). Correct.
* **XL**: RF 24 + 48 = 72, RSL 36 + 48 = 84, Back 64 + 48 = 112, LSL 36 + 48 = 84, LF 24 + 48 = 72. Total 424 sts. (F_Body_yoke = 72+72+112 = 256 sts; F_Sleeve_yoke = 84+84 = 168 sts). Correct.
## BODY
**Separate Sleeves**:
Next Round (RS):
Work Right Front stitches (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) according to Chart A, remove marker, place next (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) Right Sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder, remove marker, CO 10 sts for underarm, pm for new beg of rnd (center of underarm CO),
Work Back stitches (80, 88, 96, 104, 112) according to Chart A, remove marker, place next (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) Left Sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder, remove marker, CO 10 sts for underarm,
Work Left Front stitches (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) according to Chart A.
**Body Stitch Counts after Separation (including underarm CO):**
* **XS**: (56 RF + 80 Back + 56 LF) + 10 Underarm + 10 Underarm = 192 + 20 = 212 sts.
* **S**: (60 RF + 88 Back + 60 LF) + 20 Underarm = 208 + 20 = 228 sts.
* **M**: (64 RF + 96 Back + 64 LF) + 20 Underarm = 224 + 20 = 244 sts.
* **L**: (68 RF + 104 Back + 68 LF) + 20 Underarm = 240 + 20 = 260 sts.
* **XL**: (72 RF + 112 Back + 72 LF) + 20 Underarm = 256 + 20 = 276 sts.
Continue working in the round with US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.
Work 4 rounds in Chart A pattern, or until Chart A ends cleanly.
Then, begin working Chart B for the Body. Maintain Chart B pattern for approx 14 inches (35.5 cm) from underarm, or desired length, ending with a complete pattern repeat.
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needles and MC.
Work 2 inches (5 cm) in 1x1 Rib (k1, p1).
BO all stitches loosely in pattern.
## SLEEVES
Place held Right Sleeve stitches (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) onto US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or shorter circular needle.
Join new yarn (MC) and pick up and knit 10 sts along the CO underarm stitches. Place marker for beg of rnd (center of picked up sts).
Total Sleeve Stitches: (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) + 10 = 62 (70, 78, 86, 94) sts.
Work in the round, starting with Chart C.
Work 2 rounds in Chart C pattern.
**Sleeve Decreases (optional, for shaping)**:
Work Sleeve Decrease Rnd: K1, k2tog, work Chart C to 3 sts before end of rnd, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased).
Repeat Sleeve Decrease Rnd every 10th (10th, 10th, 8th, 8th) rnd 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) times total.
* **XS**: 3 decreases = 6 sts dec. (62 - 6 = 56 sts rem)
* **S**: 4 decreases = 8 sts dec. (70 - 8 = 62 sts rem)
* **M**: 4 decreases = 8 sts dec. (78 - 8 = 70 sts rem)
* **L**: 5 decreases = 10 sts dec. (86 - 10 = 76 sts rem)
* **XL**: 5 decreases = 10 sts dec. (94 - 10 = 84 sts rem)
Continue in Chart C until sleeve measures approx 16 (16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches / 40.5 (42, 43, 44.5, 45.5) cm from underarm, or desired length.
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needles and MC.
Work 2 inches (5 cm) in 1x1 Rib (k1, p1).
BO all stitches loosely in pattern.
Repeat for Left Sleeve.
## BUTTON_BANDS
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm circular needle and MC, starting at the bottom right front edge (RS facing), pick up and knit stitches evenly along the Right Front edge, up the right side of the neck, across the back of the neck, down the left side of the neck, and along the Left Front edge. Aim for approx 3 sts for every 4 rows.
Work 3 rows of 1x1 Rib (k1, p1).
**Buttonhole Band (choose left or right side based on preference)**:
* **For Women's Cardigan (Left Front Button Band - if buttonholes are on left)**:
* **Buttonhole Row (RS)**: Work in 1x1 Rib to desired buttonhole placement, *yo, k2tog* (or ssk for smaller buttonhole) for buttonhole, continue in 1x1 Rib. Space 5-7 buttonholes evenly along the band, starting ~1 inch from bottom, and ending ~1 inch from top, ensuring one aligns with the neckline.
* **For Men's Cardigan (Right Front Button Band - if buttonholes are on right)**:
* **Buttonhole Row (RS)**: Work in 1x1 Rib up to the desired buttonhole placement, *yo, k2tog*, continue in 1x1 Rib.
Work 3 more rows in 1x1 Rib.
BO all stitches loosely in pattern.
## FINISHING
1. **Weave in all ends**: Use a tapestry needle to neatly weave in all yarn tails on the wrong side of your work. Be mindful of floats, ensuring ends are secure without pulling the fabric.
2. **Block your cardigan**: Wet block your cardigan by soaking it in lukewarm water with a wool wash for 20-30 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay the cardigan flat on blocking mats or a clean towel, shaping it to the finished measurements. Pay special attention to the colorwork, gently stretching it to even out stitches and flatten any puckering from floats. Allow to dry completely.
3. **Attach Buttons**: Sew buttons to the non-buttonhole band, aligning them with the buttonholes on the opposite band.
Enjoy your Solstice Kimono Cardigan!
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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