purlJam

# Stripey Toe-Up Crochet Socks (UK Terms)

**Pattern Type:** Crochet Socks - Toe Up
**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Yarn Weight:** 4-ply / Fingering (Standard UK Sock Yarn)
**Size:** Adult Medium (To fit foot circumference approx. 20-22 cm)

## Description
These simple, durable socks are worked from the toe up in a spiral, meaning there are no seams to rub against your toes. The fabric is dense to ensure longevity. The pattern features alternating stripes to make the best use of fun UK sock yarn colourways.

## Materials
*   **Yarn:** approx. 100g of 4-ply/Fingering weight sock yarn (75% Wool, 25% Nylon).
    *   *Colour A (Main):* 50g
    *   *Colour B (Contrast):* 50g
*   **Hook:** 2.5mm or 3.0mm (use a size smaller than recommended on the ball band to achieve a tight fabric).
*   **Notions:** 2 Stitch markers (essential), yarn needle, scissors.

## Tension (Gauge)
**24 stitches and 26 rounds = 10 cm** in double crochet (dc).
*Critical:* Take time to check tension. If your fabric is loose, the socks will wear out quickly. If too tight, they will be stiff.

## Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
*   **ch:** chain
*   **dc:** double crochet (US single crochet)
*   **htr:** half treble crochet (US half double crochet)
*   **ss:** slip stitch
*   **inc:** increase (work 2 dc in the same stitch)
*   **dec:** decrease (dc2tog)
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **Rnd:** Round
*   **RS/WS:** Right Side / Wrong Side
*   **blo:** back loop only

---

## Instructions

### 1. THE TOE
*Worked in Colour A (Main).*
*Note: The toe creates an oval cup. We increase by 4 stitches every increase round.*

**Foundation:** Ch 8.
**Rnd 1:** 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 5 ch, 4 dc in last ch. Rotate to work along the underside of the chain. 1 dc in next 5 ch, 2 dc in the last ch (same space as first 2 dc). Do not join; mark the first st of the next round.
`[Math: 2 + 5 + 4 + 5 + 2 = 18 sts]`

**Rnd 2:** 1 dc in each st around.
`[Math: 18 sts]`

**Rnd 3 (Inc):** 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st.
`[Math: 18 + 4 increases = 22 sts]`

**Rnd 4:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 5 (Inc):** *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 10 sts; rep from * once more.
`[Math: 22 + 2 increases = 24 sts]` *(Note: Adjusted slightly to align markers)*

*Re-place markers: Place a marker at stitch 1 and stitch 13 to mark the sides of the foot.*

**Rnd 6 (Inc):** *2 dc in marked st, dc to next marker; rep from * once more.
`[Math: 24 + 2 increases = 26 sts]`
*Correction for width:* To achieve the correct width, we will now increase by 4 stitches per round (2 at each side) as follows:

**Rnd 7:** *2 dc in next st, dc to 1 st before marker, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more.
`[Math: 26 + 4 increases = 30 sts]`

**Rnd 8:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 9:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 30 + 4 = 34 sts]`

**Rnd 10:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 11:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 34 + 4 = 38 sts]`

**Rnd 12:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 13:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 38 + 4 = 42 sts]`

**Rnd 14:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 15:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 42 + 4 = 46 sts]`

**Rnd 16:** 1 dc in each st around.

**Rnd 17:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 46 + 4 = 50 sts]`

**Rnd 18:** Rep Rnd 7.
`[Math: 50 + 4 = 54 sts]` *(We will stop here for a Medium size. For Small stop at 46, for Large go to 60).*

### 2. THE FOOT (Stripe Pattern)
*Change to Colour B.*

**Stripe Pattern:** Work 4 rounds in Colour B, then 4 rounds in Colour A. Carry the unused yarn up the inside of the sock loosely—do not cut yarn at every change.

**Rnd 1:** 1 dc in each st around.
`[Math: 54 sts]`

Continue working in spiral dc, maintaining the 4-round stripe pattern.
**Length Check:** Try the sock on as you go. Work until the piece measures approx. 5 cm (2 inches) less than the total length of your foot. (Roughly where your ankle bone starts). End on a completed stripe section if possible.

### 3. THE HEEL (Short Row Hourglass)
*Work using Colour A (Main) only for the heel.*
The heel is worked in rows back and forth over half the stitches (27 sts). The instep (top of foot) stitches are left unworked.

**Setup:** Dc across the first 27 sts. Turn. Leave remaining 27 sts unworked.

**First Half (Narrowing):**
**Row 1 (WS):** Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc in first 26 sts. Leave last st unworked. Turn.
`[Math: 26 sts worked, 1 unworked]`
**Row 2 (RS):** Ch 1, dc in first 25 sts. Leave last st unworked. Turn.
`[Math: 25 sts worked]`
**Row 3:** Ch 1, dc in first 24 sts. Turn.
**Row 4:** Ch 1, dc in first 23 sts. Turn.

Continue shortening each row by 1 stitch until 9 stitches remain in the centre (approx 1/3 of heel width).

**Second Half (Widening):**
*We will now work back out, picking up the unworked stitches.*

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc across the centre 9 sts, dc into the first unworked st on the side (it may help to pick up a loop from the side of the step to prevent a hole—ss2tog the side loop and the target stitch). Turn.
`[Math: 10 sts active]`
**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc across 10 sts, dc into first unworked st on side. Turn.
`[Math: 11 sts active]`
**Row 3:** Ch 1, dc across 11 sts, dc into next unworked st. Turn.
`[Math: 12 sts active]`

Continue working back and forth, incorporating one previously unworked stitch at the end of every row, until you have worked all 27 heel stitches.

### 4. THE LEG
Resume working in the round over all 54 stitches.
*Resume Stripe Pattern where you left off.*

**Rnd 1:** Work across heel stitches, then work across the held instep stitches.
*Tip: If you find a gap at the corner where the heel meets the instep, pick up an extra stitch in the corner and decrease it (dc2tog) on the very next round.*

**Rnds 2+:** Work straight in dc (or switch to htr for a slightly stretchier leg) maintaining stripes.
**Height:** Continue until leg measures approx. 15 cm (6 inches) or desired height, ending with Colour A.

### 5. THE CUFF
*Worked in Colour A.*
This uses the "joined, turned rounds" method or a perpendicular ribbing method. We will use perpendicular ribbing for best elasticity.

1.  Ch 11 (determines cuff height).
2.  **Row 1:** Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch down (10 dc). Ss into the next 2 sts of the Leg edge. Turn.
3.  **Row 2:** Skip the 2 ss. Working in **blo** (back loop only), dc in each of the 10 sts up the cuff. Turn.
4.  **Row 3:** Ch 1, **blo** dc in each st down. Ss into next 2 sts of Leg edge. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the entire circumference of the sock.
**Join:** Sew the last row to the first row using a yarn needle or slip stitch them together.

## Finishing
1.  Cut yarn and fasten off.
2.  Weave in all ends on the inside.
3.  Block lightly: Wash the socks and lay them flat to dry. This helps the crochet stitches settle and makes the fabric more comfortable.

**Modification Notes:**
*   **For Fit:** If the socks feel too tight pulling over your heel, use a 3.25mm hook for the leg section only.
*   **Slipper Style:** If you *do* want to make these thick "house socks" using worsted weight yarn, use a 4.5mm hook, start with 8 sts in the toe, and stop increasing at 36 stitches total.