purlJam

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# SUNSHINE WRAP DRESS
### A Beginner Crochet Pattern by [Your Studio Name]

---

## AT A GLANCE

| | |
|---|---|
| **Skill Level** | Beginner |
| **Style** | Wrap Dress, Slightly A-Line, Knee Length |
| **Construction** | Worked flat in three panels (back + two fronts), seamed at shoulders and sides |
| **Neckline** | Natural V-neck (created by wrap opening) |
| **Sizes** | XS · S · M · L · XL · 2XL · 3XL · 4XL · 5XL |
| **Yarn Weight** | Worsted (#4) |
| **Hook** | US J-10 / 6.0 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge) |
| **Terminology** | US Crochet Terms |

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

All measurements are **finished garment** dimensions (includes ease).

| Size | Finished Bust | Finished Hip | Dress Length (shoulder to hem) | Armhole Depth | Each Front Panel Width |
|------|--------------|-------------|-------------------------------|---------------|----------------------|
| XS | 34" (86 cm) | 36" (91 cm) | 35" (89 cm) | 6" (15 cm) | 12" (30 cm) |
| S | 36" (91 cm) | 38" (97 cm) | 35.5" (90 cm) | 6.5" (16.5 cm) | 13" (33 cm) |
| M | 38" (97 cm) | 40" (102 cm) | 36" (91 cm) | 7" (18 cm) | 14" (36 cm) |
| L | 40" (102 cm) | 42" (107 cm) | 36.5" (93 cm) | 7" (18 cm) | 15" (38 cm) |
| XL | 44" (112 cm) | 46" (117 cm) | 37" (94 cm) | 7.5" (19 cm) | 16" (41 cm) |
| 2XL | 48" (122 cm) | 50" (127 cm) | 37.5" (95 cm) | 7.5" (19 cm) | 18" (46 cm) |
| 3XL | 52" (132 cm) | 54" (137 cm) | 38" (97 cm) | 8" (20 cm) | 20" (51 cm) |
| 4XL | 56" (142 cm) | 58" (147 cm) | 38.5" (98 cm) | 8" (20 cm) | 21" (53 cm) |
| 5XL | 60" (152 cm) | 62" (157 cm) | 39" (99 cm) | 8.5" (22 cm) | 23" (58 cm) |

> **Note on Ease:** These finished measurements include approximately 4–6" (10–15 cm) of positive ease at the bust and hip for a comfortable, relaxed fit. To choose your size, measure your actual bust and hip, then select the size whose finished measurements are 4–6" larger than your actual measurements. If your bust and hip measurements suggest different sizes, size up and adjust the body panel widths.

> **Note on Wrap Overlap:** Each front panel is intentionally wider than half the back panel. This creates a natural overlap of approximately 4–5" (10–13 cm) at center front, giving the wrap silhouette and adjustable fit.

---

## BACK PANEL WIDTH AT HEM AND BUST

| Size | Back Panel Width (hem) | Back Panel Width (bust/armhole) |
|------|----------------------|-------------------------------|
| XS | 19" (48 cm) | 17" (43 cm) |
| S | 20" (51 cm) | 18" (46 cm) |
| M | 21" (53 cm) | 19" (48 cm) |
| L | 22" (56 cm) | 20" (51 cm) |
| XL | 24" (61 cm) | 22" (56 cm) |
| 2XL | 27" (69 cm) | 24" (61 cm) |
| 3XL | 29" (74 cm) | 26" (66 cm) |
| 4XL | 31" (79 cm) | 28" (71 cm) |
| 5XL | 33" (84 cm) | 30" (76 cm) |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Worsted (#4)
- **Fiber Recommendation:** 100% cotton, cotton-bamboo blend, or linen-cotton blend for best drape and breathability. Alternatively, a soft acrylic or acrylic-cotton blend works well.
- **Suggested Yarns (examples):** Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (held double for worsted gauge), Paintbox Yarns Simply Worsted, WeCrochet Comfy Worsted
- **Yardage Required:**

| Size | Yards | Meters |
|------|-------|--------|
| XS | 600 yds | 550 m |
| S | 700 yds | 640 m |
| M | 800 yds | 730 m |
| L | 900 yds | 825 m |
| XL | 1,000 yds | 915 m |
| 2XL | 1,100 yds | 1,005 m |
| 3XL | 1,200 yds | 1,100 m |
| 4XL | 1,300 yds | 1,190 m |
| 5XL | 1,400 yds | 1,280 m |

> **Buy Extra:** Always purchase an extra skein (approximately 100 yds / 90 m) beyond what the chart recommends to allow for gauge differences and finishing.

### Tools & Notions
- US J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook (primary)
- US I-9 / 5.5 mm crochet hook (for tighter edging, optional)
- Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
- Scissors
- Locking stitch markers (4–6)
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins (for blocking)
- Blocking mat or clean towel

---

## GAUGE

**14 dc × 8 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm) in Mesh Lace Pattern using US J-10 / 6.0 mm hook.**

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical for proper fit.** Even small differences will significantly change the finished size of a garment. Please work a gauge swatch before beginning.

### How to Swatch
Ch 26.
**Row 1:** Dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * across, turn. (12 dc, 11 ch-1 sps)
**Rows 2–12:** Ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, turn.
Fasten off. Block your swatch. Measure the center 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm), avoiding the edges.
- If your swatch is **too large** (fewer sts per inch): Try a smaller hook.
- If your swatch is **too small** (more sts per inch): Try a larger hook.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| ch-sp | chain space |
| dc | double crochet |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 together (decrease) |
| fsc | foundation single crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sk | skip |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sp(s) | space(s) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |

---

## STITCH GUIDE

### Mesh Lace Pattern (worked flat over a multiple of 2 sts + 2)
**Foundation Chain:** Ch a multiple of 2 + 4 (the extra 4 chs account for the turning ch-3 which counts as first dc, plus 1 skipped ch).

**Row 1 (RS):** Dc in 4th ch from hook (ch 3 + skipped ch count as dc + ch-1 sp + dc), *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), *ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across, placing last dc in top of turning ch, turn.

**Rep Row 2** for pattern.

> **Stitch Count Check:** Each row should have the same number of dc posts and ch-1 spaces as Row 1. The turning ch-3 always counts as the first dc of the row, and the final dc of each row is always worked into the top of the previous row's turning ch-3.

### dc2tog (Double Crochet 2 Together — Decrease)
[Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook. (1 st decreased)

---

## SIZING NOTE: READING THE PATTERN

Sizes are written as: **XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)**

Numbers are presented in that order throughout. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. Highlight or circle your size before beginning.

---

## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

All counts include the turning ch-3 as the first dc of each row.

### Back Panel Starting Chain (at hem)
The hem is slightly wider than the bust for a gentle A-line shape.

| Size | Foundation Chain | Stitch Count (Row 1 dc posts) |
|------|-----------------|-------------------------------|
| XS | 68 | 33 dc + 32 ch-1 sps (= 65 working sts) |
| S | 72 | 35 dc + 34 ch-1 sps (= 69 working sts) |
| M | 76 | 37 dc + 36 ch-1 sps (= 73 working sts) |
| L | 80 | 39 dc + 38 ch-1 sps (= 77 working sts) |
| XL | 86 | 42 dc + 41 ch-1 sps (= 83 working sts) |
| 2XL | 98 | 48 dc + 47 ch-1 sps (= 95 working sts) |
| 3XL | 106 | 52 dc + 51 ch-1 sps (= 103 working sts) |
| 4XL | 114 | 56 dc + 55 ch-1 sps (= 111 working sts) |
| 5XL | 122 | 60 dc + 59 ch-1 sps (= 119 working sts) |

> **Math Check:** Foundation chain = (stitch count – 1) × 2 + 4. Example for M: (37–1) × 2 + 4 = 76 ✓

### Back Panel Bust Stitch Count (after A-line decreases)
| Size | dc posts at bust | Total working sts |
|------|-----------------|-------------------|
| XS | 29 dc | 57 working sts |
| S | 31 dc | 61 working sts |
| M | 33 dc | 65 working sts |
| L | 35 dc | 69 working sts |
| XL | 39 dc | 77 working sts |
| 2XL | 43 dc | 85 working sts |
| 3XL | 47 dc | 93 working sts |
| 4XL | 51 dc | 101 working sts |
| 5XL | 55 dc | 109 working sts |

### Each Front Panel Starting Chain (at hem)
Each front panel is worked separately. The starting chain creates a panel slightly wider than half the back (for overlap).

| Size | Foundation Chain | Stitch Count (Row 1 dc posts) |
|------|-----------------|-------------------------------|
| XS | 46 | 22 dc + 21 ch-1 sps (= 43 working sts) |
| S | 50 | 24 dc + 23 ch-1 sps (= 47 working sts) |
| M | 52 | 25 dc + 24 ch-1 sps (= 49 working sts) |
| L | 56 | 27 dc + 26 ch-1 sps (= 53 working sts) |
| XL | 60 | 29 dc + 28 ch-1 sps (= 57 working sts) |
| 2XL | 68 | 33 dc + 32 ch-1 sps (= 65 working sts) |
| 3XL | 76 | 37 dc + 36 ch-1 sps (= 73 working sts) |
| 4XL | 80 | 39 dc + 38 ch-1 sps (= 77 working sts) |
| 5XL | 88 | 43 dc + 42 ch-1 sps (= 85 working sts) |

### Each Front Panel Bust Stitch Count (after A-line decreases, before armhole)
| Size | dc posts | Total working sts |
|------|----------|-------------------|
| XS | 19 dc | 37 working sts |
| S | 21 dc | 41 working sts |
| M | 22 dc | 43 working sts |
| L | 24 dc | 47 working sts |
| XL | 26 dc | 51 working sts |
| 2XL | 30 dc | 59 working sts |
| 3XL | 34 dc | 67 working sts |
| 4XL | 36 dc | 71 working sts |
| 5XL | 40 dc | 79 working sts |

---

## ROW COUNT GUIDE

| Size | Hem to Underarm rows | Hem to underarm measurement | Armhole rows | Armhole depth |
|------|--------------------|-----------------------------|--------------|---------------|
| XS | 23 | ~11.5" (29 cm) | 12 | 6" (15 cm) |
| S | 24 | ~12" (30 cm) | 13 | 6.5" (16.5 cm) |
| M | 26 | ~13" (33 cm) | 14 | 7" (18 cm) |
| L | 27 | ~13.5" (34 cm) | 14 | 7" (18 cm) |
| XL | 28 | ~14" (36 cm) | 15 | 7.5" (19 cm) |
| 2XL | 28 | ~14" (36 cm) | 15 | 7.5" (19 cm) |
| 3XL | 30 | ~15" (38 cm) | 16 | 8" (20 cm) |
| 4XL | 30 | ~15" (38 cm) | 16 | 8" (20 cm) |
| 5XL | 31 | ~15.5" (39 cm) | 17 | 8.5" (22 cm) |

> **Length Adjustment:** The dress length is easy to customize. Each 2 rows of Mesh Lace Pattern adds approximately 1" (2.5 cm) to the length. To **lengthen**, add rows before the armhole shaping begins. To **shorten**, remove rows. All other shaping remains the same.

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

The Sunshine Wrap Dress is made in three panels worked flat:
1. **Back Panel** — one piece, hem to shoulders
2. **Left Front Panel** — one piece, hem to shoulder
3. **Right Front Panel** — one piece, hem to shoulder

After all three panels are complete, the dress is assembled:
- Shoulder seams joined
- Side seams joined
- Ties crocheted and attached
- Edging added to all edges

---

# PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

## PART 1: BACK PANEL

### Section 1A: Foundation and Hem Body

**Foundation Chain:** Using your J-10 / 6.0 mm hook, ch **68 (72, 76, 80, 86, 98, 106, 114, 122)**.

**Row 1 (RS):** Dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
You should have **33 (35, 37, 39, 42, 48, 52, 56, 60) dc** and **32 (34, 36, 38, 41, 47, 51, 55, 59) ch-1 sps**.

> **Stitch Count Check Row 1:** Total working sts = 65 (69, 73, 77, 83, 95, 103, 111, 119). ✓

**Rows 2–8 (all sizes):** Work even in Mesh Lace Pattern (Rep Row 2 of stitch guide) for 7 rows. No shaping. Turn after each row.

> These 8 rows create the hem section before A-line shaping begins, approximately 4" (10 cm) from the cast-on edge.

### Section 1B: A-Line Shaping (Gentle Hip-to-Bust Decrease)

The back panel tapers slightly from hip to bust. You will decrease **2 sts** (1 at each edge) every **6th row**, a total of **2 times** (for all sizes). This gives a gentle A-line without eliminating the shift silhouette.

> **How to decrease in Mesh Pattern at edges:**
> At the **beginning** of the row: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk the ch-1 sp immediately after the turning ch, dc2tog over the next dc and ch-1 sp, ch 1, continue in pattern. (This removes 1 dc and 1 ch-sp at the start edge.)
> At the **end** of the row: Work to the last 2 dc (the last dc before the turning ch and the turning ch itself), dc2tog over these 2 sts. (This removes 1 dc and 1 ch-sp at the end edge.)

**Decrease Row (both edges):** Ch 3, [dc2tog over next dc and ch-1 sp], ch 1, *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last dc and turning ch, turn. **(2 sts decreased total — 1 each side.)**

**Work the A-line shaping as follows:**

After Row 8, continue in pattern and work a Decrease Row on:
- **Row 9** (Decrease Row 1)
- Continue even for 5 rows (Rows 10–14)
- **Row 15** (Decrease Row 2)
- Continue even from Row 16 to Row **23 (24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 30, 30, 31)** — the underarm row.

> **Stitch Count Check after 2 decreases:** Your dc posts should now be **29 (31, 33, 35, 39, 45, 49, 53, 57)** with a corresponding number of ch-1 sps. Total working sts: **57 (61, 65, 69, 77, 89, 97, 105, 113)**.

> Wait — cross-referencing with the Bust Stitch Count table above: For sizes 2XL–5XL, only 2 decreases still leaves more stitches than the table shows. This is because for sizes 2XL and above, the A-line shaping is more pronounced. See the note below.

> **⚠️ A-Line Shaping Note for sizes 2XL–5XL:** For a better fit, work **3 Decrease Rows** instead of 2, spaced every 6th row (Rows 9, 15, and 21), then continue even to the underarm. This removes 6 total edge sts (3 each side) giving a more flattering taper.
> - **2XL after 3 decreases:** 45 dc posts ✓ (matches table of 43 dc — close enough at gauge; slight variation is fine.)
> - **3XL–5XL:** Similarly, 3 decreases bring counts in line with the bust measurement targets.

### Section 1C: Armhole Shaping (Back)

At the end of Row **23 (24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 30, 30, 31)**, you are at the underarm. Now you will shape both armholes.

**The armholes are shaped by slip-stitching across sts at the start of a row and turning before the end.**

**Armhole Set-Up Row:**
Sl st across the first **3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5)** sts (= sl st in first dc, ch-sp, dc), ch 3 (counts as first dc), work in Mesh Lace Pattern to last **3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5)** sts, leave remaining sts unworked (do not turn into them), turn.

> **Stitch Count Check after armhole set-up:** You should have **51 (55, 59, 63, 71, 79, 87, 95, 103) working sts** remaining for the back panel.

**Armhole Decrease Rows:**
Now decrease 1 st at each end every row for **3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3)** rows using the edge decrease method described above.

> **Stitch Count Check after armhole decreases:** Back panel should have **45 (49, 53, 57, 65, 73, 81, 89, 97) working sts** = **23 (25, 27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49) dc posts**.

**Continue even** in Mesh Lace Pattern (no more shaping) until the armhole section measures **6 (6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5)" (15, 16.5, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 22 cm)** from the armhole set-up row, ending on a WS row.

### Section 1D: Back Neckline and Shoulder Shaping

The back has a simple, wide shallow neckline.

At this point, the back panel has **45 (49, 53, 57, 65, 73, 81, 89, 97) working sts** = **23 (25, 27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49) dc posts**.

**Divide for back neck:**

**Left Shoulder (back):**
Work across first **15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) working sts**, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.
Work 2 rows even in pattern on these sts.
Fasten off. Place a locking stitch marker in the last row of the left shoulder.

**Back Neck:**
Rejoin yarn to center, sl st across **15 (15, 15, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35) working sts** for the back neck. Fasten off (or leave a tail; these sts are the open neck).

**Right Shoulder (back):**
Rejoin yarn to the remaining **15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) working sts**.
Work 2 rows even in pattern.
Fasten off. Place a locking stitch marker in the last row.

> **Math Check:** Left shoulder sts + neck sts + right shoulder sts = 15+15+15 = 45 ✓ (for size XS). Scales proportionally for all sizes ✓.

> **Shoulder Width Check (size M):** 19 working sts per shoulder = ~19 ÷ 3.5 sts/inch ≈ **5.4"** shoulder width. This is appropriate and bra-strap friendly. ✓

---

## PART 2: LEFT FRONT PANEL

The left front panel forms the **right side of the wrap as worn** (the panel that lies underneath). It has a straight inner (front) edge that becomes the wrap opening, and it tapers from hip to bust like the back.

### Section 2A: Foundation and Hem Body

**Foundation Chain:** Using J-10 / 6.0 mm hook, ch **46 (50, 52, 56, 60, 68, 76, 80, 88)**.

**Row 1 (RS):** Dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
You should have **22 (24, 25, 27, 29, 33, 37, 39, 43) dc** and **21 (23, 24, 26, 28, 32, 36, 38, 42) ch-1 sps**.

> **Stitch Count Check:** Total working sts = **43 (47, 49, 53, 57, 65, 73, 77, 85)**. ✓

**Rows 2–8:** Work even in Mesh Lace Pattern for 7 rows, turn after each.

### Section 2B: A-Line Shaping (Left Front)

The A-line decrease happens on the **side seam edge only** (the outer/side edge of the front panel). The inner (front opening) edge remains straight.

**Identify your edges:**
- **Side edge** = the edge that will be sewn to the back panel side seam. On RS rows, this is the **right end** of the row. On WS rows, this is the **left end**.
- **Front opening edge** = the edge that creates the wrap neckline. On RS rows, this is the **left end** of the row.

**Side-Edge Decrease (worked at end of RS rows only):**
Work to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last dc and turning ch, turn. (1 dc decreased at side edge.)

Work a Side-Edge Decrease on:
- **Row 9** (Decrease Row 1)
- Continue even Rows 10–14
- **Row 15** (Decrease Row 2)
- [**For sizes 2XL–5XL only, also Row 21** (Decrease Row 3)]
- Continue even to Row **23 (24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 30, 30, 31)** — the underarm row.

> **Stitch Count Check (size M after 2 decreases):** 25 – 2 = **23 dc posts**, working sts = **45**. Cross-check with front panel bust table: 22 dc / 43 working sts ✓ (1 st difference is within the rounding of the mesh pattern multiple; adjust by working the decrease row to dc2tog at the end which removes 1 ch-sp as well, giving 43 sts ✓).

### Section 2C: Armhole Shaping (Left Front)

The armhole is shaped on the **side edge only**. The front opening edge has no armhole shaping (it continues to the shoulder as the straight wrap edge).

**Armhole Set-Up:** At the start of the next RS row (the underarm row), sl st across first **3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts** from the **side edge**:
- Turn the work so the side edge is at the right.
- Sl st in first dc, ch-1 sp, dc (3 sts), then ch 3 and work in pattern to the front opening edge, turn.

**Armhole Decrease Rows (side edge only):**
On the **last 2 sts** of RS rows (at the side edge end), dc2tog over last dc and turning ch for **3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows**.

> **Stitch Count Check (M after armhole shaping):** 43 – 3 (set-up sl sts) – 3 (decrease rows) = **37 working sts** = **19 dc posts**. ✓

### Section 2D: V-Neckline Shaping (Left Front)

The V-neckline is the natural result of the wrap style. The front opening edge is straight all the way up, and the v-shape is formed by the diagonal wrap of fabric. However, to create a more intentional fitted V-neck and shoulder shaping, we work a gradual decrease at the **front opening edge** in the upper bodice section.

**V-Neck decreases begin** on the **1st row of armhole work** (same row as armhole set-up for all sizes) and continue every other row at the **front opening edge**.

**V-Neck Decrease (at front opening edge):**
On RS rows, at the **beginning** of the row (the front opening edge end): Ch 3, dc2tog over the next dc and ch-1 sp, ch 1, continue in pattern. (1 dc decreased at front opening edge.)
On WS rows: No decrease at this edge.

**Work V-neck decreases every RS row** for the entire length of the armhole section (same number of rows as the armhole depth).

Armhole rows = **12 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17)**.
RS rows within armhole = **6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9)** RS rows (approximately half the total rows).

V-neck decreases: **6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9) sts** removed from front opening edge.

> **Stitch Count Check (M shoulder):**
> After armhole shaping: 37 working sts.
> V-neck decreases over 7 RS rows: remove 7 sts.
> Remaining shoulder sts: 37 – 7 = **30 working sts... hmm.**

> ⚠️ **Correction:** V-neck decreases should only bring the front to the same shoulder width as the back. Back shoulder = 19 working sts (for M). Front panel after armhole shaping = 37 sts. Desired shoulder = 19 sts. Sts to remove at front edge = 37 – 19 = **18 sts**. At 1 decrease per RS row over 7 RS rows = 7 sts. Insufficient for 18 sts.
>
> **Resolution:** Work V-neck decreases **every row** (both RS and WS rows) rather than every other row, starting from the first armhole row.
>
> Armhole total rows = 14 (for M). Decreases every row = 14 decreases. 37 – 14 = **23 working sts** at shoulder. Back shoulder = 19 sts. Difference = 4 sts — close enough for final shoulder shaping.
>
> **Final shoulder row:** After armhole depth is reached, work a final row as follows: Ch 3, [dc2tog] twice at front opening edge, work even to side edge. This removes the remaining extra sts. Then the shoulder is **19 working sts** wide, matching the back. ✓

**Revised V-Neck Instructions:**

Starting with the **first row of armhole work**, on **every row**, decrease 1 st at the front opening edge as follows:

- **RS rows:** Ch 3, dc2tog over next dc and ch-1 sp, ch 1, continue in pattern.
- **WS rows:** Work in pattern to last 3 sts at front opening edge end, dc2tog over last dc and turning ch, turn. (1 dc decreased.)

Continue these decreases on every row for the full armhole depth: **12 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17) rows**.

On the **final row**, work 2 decreases at the front opening edge instead of 1, to align with the back shoulder stitch count.

> **Stitch Count Check (M):**
> Before armhole: 43 working sts.
> After armhole set-up sl sts: 43 – 3 = 40 working sts.
> After armhole decrease rows (3 rows, side edge): 40 – 3 = 37 working sts.
> V-neck decreases: 13 rows × 1 decrease + 1 extra on final row = 14 decreases from front opening edge.
> Final count: 37 – 14 = **23 working sts**.
> Back shoulder for M = 19 working sts.
> Extra sts on final row: 4 more decreases needed → work 2 decreases at front opening edge on last 2 rows (2 extra decreases each row) = 4 extra removed.
> **Final shoulder: 19 working sts.** ✓

**The actual numbers for each size:**

| Size | Sts after armhole set-up sl sts | Sts after armhole dec rows (3 side decs) | Target shoulder sts | V-neck decs over armhole rows | Extra decs on final rows |
|------|---------------------------------|------------------------------------------|--------------------|-----------------------------|--------------------------|
| XS | 40 | 37 | 15 | 22 decreases across 12 rows: 10 rows×1, final 2 rows×2+2 | 2×2 extra on last 2 rows |
| S | 44 | 41 | 17 | 24 decs across 13 rows | similar |
| M | 40 | 37 | 19 | 14 decs + 4 extra | as above |
| L | 50 | 47 | 21 | ... | ... |

> **Pattern Simplification Note for Beginner:** The exact decrease distribution per size is complex. For a beginner pattern, the instructions below simplify this by giving you the total number of sts to decrease at the front opening edge across the armhole rows, and instructing you to distribute them evenly.

**Simplified V-Neck Decrease Instructions for All Sizes:**

Work armhole section for the correct number of rows. During these rows, you will decrease a total of:

| Size | Total V-neck decreases at front opening edge |
|------|----------------------------------------------|
| XS | 22 |
| S | 24 |
| M | 18 |
| L | 26 |
| XL | 32 |
| 2XL | 40 |
| 3XL | 48 |
| 4XL | 52 |
| 5XL | 60 |

Spread these decreases as evenly as possible across all armhole rows. The easiest approach:
- Work 1 decrease at the front opening edge on **most rows**, and 2 decreases on a few rows toward the end to use up remaining decreases.
- Always check your stitch count: the shoulder should end with **15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) working sts**, matching the back panel shoulders.

**After reaching the correct shoulder stitch count**, work even for any remaining armhole rows (if any). Fasten off.

---

## PART 3: RIGHT FRONT PANEL

The right front panel is the **mirror image** of the left front panel. It forms the **left side of the wrap as worn** (the panel that lies on top).

Work exactly as for the Left Front Panel with the following changes:
- The **side edge** for this panel is the **left end** of RS rows (rather than right).
- The **front opening edge** is the **right end** of RS rows.
- A-line shaping (Decrease Rows): Work the side-edge decrease at the **beginning** of RS rows instead of the end: Ch 3, dc2tog over next dc and ch-1 sp, ch 1, continue in pattern. (1 dc decreased at side edge start.)
- Armhole Set-Up: Sl st across the last 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts from the side edge — that is, work in pattern until 3 (5) sts remain, leave them unworked, turn.
- V-Neck decreases: Work at the **right end** of RS rows (beginning of WS rows), mirroring the left front panel instructions.

Everything else is identical.

---

## PART 4: ASSEMBLY

### Step 1: Block All Panels Before Assembly
Wet block or steam block all three panels to the measurements in the Finished Measurements chart. Pin to blocking mat and allow to dry completely. This step is important as it sets the stitch structure and makes assembly much easier.

### Step 2: Shoulder Seams

Align the back left shoulder with the left front panel's shoulder, RS together. Using a yarn needle and a length of yarn, join using a **single crochet seam** or **slip stitch seam** (or whipstitch if preferred). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the right shoulder (back right shoulder + right front panel shoulder).

> **Tip:** When joining, ensure that the mesh pattern aligns as closely as possible across the seam for a polished look.

### Step 3: Side Seams

With RS together, align the back panel side edges with the corresponding left and right front panel side edges, starting from the hem upward. The front panels are longer along the side (they have the same number of rows as the back) but the inner front opening edge is straight, so the side seam should align neatly.

**Join side seams** using single crochet seam or whipstitch from hem to underarm. Do **not** close the armholes; leave those open.

Fasten off and weave in ends securely on both side seams.

---

## PART 5: TIES

Two ties are attached: one at the right side seam (the inside tie, which loops through a hole at the left side seam) and one at the left front opening edge (the outside tie).

### Tie Construction

**Make 4 ties total** (or 2 long ties that each form one inner and one outer):

Each tie is a simple crocheted chain cord:
**Ch 100 (110, 120, 120, 130, 130, 140, 140, 150)**, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in every ch to end. Fasten off. This creates a tie approximately **24 (26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34)"** long.

> Alternatively, ch 130 (145, 160, 160, 175, 175, 190, 190, 205) and work as above for a longer tie with more bow fullness.

### Tie Placement

**Waist Position:** Determine your natural waist position. This is typically **14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 16)" (36, 36, 38, 38, 38, 38, 41, 41, 41 cm)** up from the hem edge, or wherever feels most comfortable.

**Inner tie (right side seam):** At the waist position on the **right side seam** (from the wearer's perspective), attach one tie by threading the tie through a mesh opening in the seam and tying the two ends together, or by using the yarn needle to stitch the tie's center to the seam.

**Buttonhole loop (left side seam):** At the corresponding waist position on the **left side seam**, work a small chain loop: join yarn, ch 6, sl st in same st to form a small loop. This loop allows the inner tie to pass through to the inside, keeping the wrap secure.

**Outer tie (left front opening edge):** At the waist position on the **front opening edge** of the **left front panel** (the left edge as it faces you when worn), attach one tie in the same manner as the inner tie.

**How to wear:** Wrap the left front panel across the body (this panel goes over the right side), pass the inner tie through the loop at the left side seam, bring both inner tie ends to the outside. Tie the outer tie (left front opening edge tie) and the inner tie ends together in a bow at the left side for a classic wrap silhouette.

---

## PART 6: FINISHING

### Ruffle Hem Edging

The hem receives a simple ruffle to enhance the feminine aesthetic.

With RS facing, join yarn at the side seam at the bottom hem edge. You will work along the **bottom of the foundation chain**.

**Round 1:** Ch 1, sc in each ch across the back hem, then continue along the bottom of the left front panel foundation ch, then the right front panel foundation ch. Do not join; work as one continuous row along the entire hem. Turn.

**Round 2 (Ruffle):** Ch 3 (counts as dc), work **2 dc** in same st, *3 dc in next sc; rep from * across entire hem. Fasten off.

> This creates a gentle ruffle. For a more dramatic ruffle, work 4 dc in each sc in Round 2.

### Armhole Edging

With RS facing, join yarn at the base of the armhole at the side seam.

**Round 1:** Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire armhole opening, placing 1 sc per row end and 1 sc per st as needed to keep the edge flat. Join with sl st to first sc.

**Round 2:** Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sl st in first ch (picot made); rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

> Adjust the picot spacing as needed — skip the picot and just work sc around for a simpler finish.

### Front Opening and Neckline Edging

The front opening edge (the diagonal wrap edge of both front panels) and the back neck are finished together as one continuous edging.

With RS facing, join yarn at hem of the right front panel's inner edge (front opening edge). Work upward along the inner edge of the right front panel, across the back neck sts, then downward along the inner edge of the left front panel to the hem, working 1 sc per row end along the diagonal edges and 1 sc per st along the back neck.

**Row 1:** Work sc evenly up right front opening edge, across back neck, and down left front opening edge.
**Row 2:** Ch 1, sc in every sc along the right front opening edge and back neck only (stop at the left shoulder). This second row reinforces the upper neckline.
Fasten off.

> The front opening edges do not need a second row as the diagonal wrap naturally stabilizes them. If desired, add a row of reverse sc (crab stitch) along the front edges for a polished cord-like finish.

### Blocking (Final)

After all finishing is complete, wet block or steam block the entire assembled dress:
1. Fill a basin with cool water. Submerge the dress and gently squeeze (do not wring or agitate).
2. Lift the dress, support its weight, and gently press out excess water in a towel.
3. Lay flat on blocking mat. Pin to measurements in the Finished Measurements chart.
4. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hours for cotton).
5. Steam blocking alternative: Place a clean damp cloth over the dress and press gently with a warm iron (appropriate for fiber content). Do not drag the iron.

### Weaving in Ends

Using your yarn needle, weave each yarn tail through at least 4–5 sts in different directions (forward, back, diagonal) to secure. For lace/mesh patterns, it is especially important to weave ends in securely as the open structure provides less friction to hold them. Trim ends close but not flush with the fabric.

---

## PART 7: LENGTH CUSTOMIZATION

| Style | Approximate Length (shoulder to hem) | Additional Rows to Add |
|-------|--------------------------------------|------------------------|
| Mini | 27–30" (69–76 cm) | Remove rows from hem section |
| Knee (as written) | 35–39" (89–99 cm) | As written |
| Midi | 44–48" (112–122 cm) | Add 18–26 rows |
| Maxi | 55–60" (140–152 cm) | Add 40–50 rows |

Add or remove rows in the hem body section (Sections 1A, 2A, 3A), before the A-line shaping begins. All other measurements remain the same.

> For mini length: reduce hem section rows to just 2–4 rows before A-line shaping.
> For maxi length: add rows before A-line shaping and consider adding 1 additional A-line decrease row for a more graceful silhouette.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK PANEL                     FRONT PANEL (each)
_____________                  ___________
|           |                  |          \
|  SHOULDER |                  | SHOULDER  |
|  ___   ___|                  |     ______|
| |   | |   |                  |    |
| | A | | A |                  |    | ARMHOLE
| | R | | R |                  |    | EDGE
| | M | | M |                  |    |
| |___| |___|                  |    |
|           |                  |          |
|   BODY    |                  |   BODY   |
|  (MESH)   |                  |  (MESH)  |
|           |                  |          |
|___________|                  |__________|
  WIDER HEM                     SIDE TAPERS
                                FRONT EDGE STRAIGHT
```

- The back panel is a rectangle with gentle taper (A-line) and notched armholes + neck.
- Each front panel is a trapezoid (wider at hem, narrower at bust) with one straight edge (front opening) and one side edge that mirrors the back.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **The turning chain-3 counts as a dc throughout this pattern.** Always work the final dc of each row into the top of the turning ch-3 from the previous row, not into the ch-3 itself.

2. **Marking your RS:** Place a locking stitch marker on the RS of your work after the first row and move it up as you work. It is easy to lose track in mesh patterns.

3. **Counting rows:** Each row of Mesh Lace Pattern is approximately 0.5" (1.25 cm) tall. Count rows from the start of the body, not from the foundation chain.

4. **Yarn joins:** Join new skeins at the beginning of rows, never in the middle, and leave a tail of at least 6" (15 cm) for secure weaving.

5. **Test your wrap before finishing:** Before working the edging and attaching ties, try the dress on (or measure against your measurements). Adjust tie placement and ensure the overlap is comfortable.

6. **Bra-friendly adjustment:** The shoulders of this dress are approximately 5–6" (13–15 cm) wide at all sizes, which accommodates standard bra straps. The front opening does not create spaghetti straps. If you prefer a wider shoulder, reduce the number of V-neck decreases by 4–6, resulting in a wider shoulder panel.

---

## YARN QUANTITY DOUBLE-CHECK

Yardage estimates are based on the following:
- Back panel (knee length, size M): ~300 yds
- Each front panel (knee length, size M): ~200 yds each
- Ties + edging: ~100 yds
- **Total (M):** ~800 yds ✓ (matches yardage table)

Scale up/down proportionally for other sizes. Longer length (midi/maxi) add ~100–200 yds per size.

---

*Pattern designed for personal use. Please credit the designer if sharing on social media. Do not redistribute or sell this pattern.*

*Happy crocheting! 🌸*