purlJam

<pattern>
# Teddy Bear Socks

**A Top-Down Sock Pattern with Heel Flap & Gusset**

These cozy socks feature an adorable teddy bear motif on the leg, perfect for adding a touch of whimsy to your handmade wardrobe. Worked top-down with a sturdy heel flap and gusset construction, they're designed for comfort and durability. This pattern is suitable for intermediate knitters comfortable with colorwork in the round and sock construction.

**Yarn Weight:** DK (Double Knitting)

**Sizes:** S (M, L)
To fit foot circumference: 7-8 inches (18-20.5 cm) for S, 8.5-9.5 inches (21.5-24 cm) for M, 10-11 inches (25.5-28 cm) for L.

**Finished Measurements:**
Foot Circumference: 8 (9.25, 10.25) inches / 20 (23.5, 26) cm
Leg Length (from cuff to start of heel flap, adjustable): 6 (6.5, 7) inches / 15 (16.5, 18) cm
Foot Length: Adjustable to fit.

**Materials:**

*   **Yarn:** DK weight yarn (approx. 240-270 yards/220-247 m per 100g)
    *   **Main Color (MC):** Approx. 175 (225, 275) yards / 160 (206, 251) m
    *   **Contrast Color 1 (CC1):** Approx. 30 (50, 70) yards / 27 (46, 64) m (for bear body)
    *   **Contrast Color 2 (CC2):** Approx. 5 (7, 10) yards / 5 (6.5, 9) m (for bear eyes/nose)
*   **Needles:**
    *   US 3 / 3.25 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge) for working small circumferences (DPNs, 9-inch circular, or longer circular for magic loop method).
    *   US 2.5 / 3 mm (one size smaller than main needle) for cuff.
*   **Notions:** Stitch marker, tapestry needle, waste yarn (optional, for afterthought heel or holding stitches), ruler or tape measure.

**Gauge:**
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, in the round, after blocking.
*It is crucial to check your gauge, especially for socks, to ensure proper fit.*

**Terminology & Abbreviations:**
This pattern uses US English terminology and knitting abbreviations.
*   **k** – knit
*   **p** – purl
*   **MC** – Main Color
*   **CC1** – Contrast Color 1
*   **CC2** – Contrast Color 2
*   **co** – cast on
*   **sts** – stitches
*   **rnd(s)** – round(s)
*   **pm** – place marker
*   **sm** – slip marker
*   **k2tog** – knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
*   **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
*   **sl 1** – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back
*   **wyib** – with yarn in back
*   **p/u** – pick up stitches
*   **WS** – wrong side
*   **RS** – right side
*   **rem** – remaining

---

## CHARTS

**How to Read the Charts:**
*   Each square on the chart represents one stitch.
*   Each row on the chart represents one round (or row for flat knitting).
*   When working in the round, read all rounds from right to left.
*   When working flat (e.g., heel flap), read RS rows (odd numbers) from right to left and WS rows (even numbers) from left to right.
*   Follow the color key for each symbol.
*   Repeat the indicated stitch pattern across the round/row as specified in the pattern.

**Color Key:**
*   □ = MC (Main Color)
*   ■ = CC1 (Contrast Color 1)
*   ● = CC2 (Contrast Color 2)

**CHART A: Teddy Bear Head Motif (8 sts × 12 rows)**
This chart is worked in the round for the Leg section.
Each size will work multiple repeats of this 8-stitch chart:
S: 7 repeats (56 sts total)
M: 8 repeats (64 sts total)
L: 9 repeats (72 sts total)

```
12: ■■□■■□■■
11: □■■■■■■□
10: ■■■■■■■■
9:  ■■■■■■■■
8:  ■■●□□●■■
7:  ■■■■■■■■
6:  ■■□■■□■■
5:  ■■■■■■■■
4:  □■■■■■■□
3:  □□■■■■□□
2:  □□■■■■□□
1:  □□□□□□□□
```
**Key:** □ = MC, ■ = CC1, ● = CC2

---

## COLOR MANAGEMENT (Fair Isle / Stranded Knitting)

*   **Floating Yarns:** Carry unused colors loosely across the back of your work. For floats longer than 3-5 stitches, catch the float by twisting it with the working yarn once or twice to prevent snagging and maintain even tension.
*   **Tension:** Maintain even tension throughout. Too tight tension can cause the fabric to pucker and lose elasticity; too loose tension can make the floats visible on the right side.
*   **Yarn Dominance:** If you notice one color appearing more prominent than another, try consistently holding that color in the same hand/position (e.g., CC1 always on top, MC always underneath) to achieve your desired effect.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

Using **smaller needles** and **MC**, co 56 (64, 72) sts.
Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

**Rnds 1-15 (or desired length):** *K2, p2; rep from * around. (56, 64, 72 sts)
_Self-check: After Rnd 15, you should have 56 (64, 72) sts._

### LEG

Change to **main needles**.
Begin working Chart A. You will work 7 (8, 9) repeats of Chart A per round.
Carry MC, CC1, and CC2 as needed according to the chart, managing floats on the WS.

**Rnds 1-12:** Work Chart A 7 (8, 9) times around.
Repeat Chart A 1 (2, 3) more times, or until Leg measures 6 (6.5, 7) inches / 15 (16.5, 18) cm from cast-on edge, or desired length.
*   **Important:** End on a complete 12-round repeat of Chart A, and ideally, end after working a Round 12 of the chart (the row with the ears), or a Round 1 (MC only) if you want to cleanly transition back to MC.
*   For the last round of the Leg before the Heel, work one round in **MC only** (knit all stitches in MC) to smooth the transition.

_Self-check: After the leg section, you should still have 56 (64, 72) sts._

### HEEL FLAP

You will now work flat for the heel flap.
Using **MC only**.
For S (M, L) sizes, work the Heel Flap over the next 28 (32, 36) sts.
This means half of your total stitches are for the heel flap.
Turn your work after each row.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1, k 27 (31, 35). (28, 32, 36 sts for heel flap)
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p 27 (31, 35). (28, 32, 36 sts for heel flap)

Repeat Rows 1-2 for a total of 26 (30, 34) rows.
You should have 13 (15, 17) slipped stitches along each side of the heel flap.
_Self-check: The number of rows for the heel flap should be 26 (30, 34). This means 13 (15, 17) selvedge stitches on each side._

### HEEL TURN

You will now shape the heel.
**MC only.**
Keep working the 28 (32, 36) sts of the heel flap.

**Row 1 (RS):** K 17 (19, 21), ssk, k1, turn. (17 (19, 21) sts worked)
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p 7, p2tog, p1, turn. (9 sts worked)
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl 1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 4 (WS):** Sl 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Continue repeating Rows 3-4 until all heel flap stitches have been worked, and only 10 (12, 14) stitches remain for the heel cup.
End after a WS row.
_Self-check: The heel turn should result in 10 (12, 14) sts remaining on the needle._

### GUSSET

You will now resume working in the round.
Using **MC only**.

**Set Up Round:**
K 10 (12, 14) heel sts. (This is the start of the round, pm here for new BOR).
P/u 13 (15, 17) sts along the first side of the heel flap. (10 (12, 14) + 13 (15, 17) sts = 23 (27, 31) sts)
K 28 (32, 36) instep sts (these are the unworked leg stitches from the back of the sock).
P/u 13 (15, 17) sts along the second side of the heel flap. (23 (27, 31) + 28 (32, 36) + 13 (15, 17) sts = 54 (64, 74) sts)
You are now at the beginning of round marker.
Total sts: 54 (64, 74) sts.

**Gusset Decreases:**
**Rnd 1:** K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1, sm, k across instep, sm, k1, ssk, k to end of round. (2 sts decreased)
**Rnd 2:** K all sts.

Repeat Rnds 1-2 until you have 56 (64, 72) sts remaining.
_Self-check: After gusset decreases, you should have returned to your original stitch count of 56 (64, 72) sts._

### FOOT

Using **MC only**.
Continue working in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until the foot measures 1.5 (1.75, 2) inches / 4 (4.5, 5) cm shorter than your desired final foot length (from back of heel to tip of toe).
_Example: If your foot is 9 inches long, knit until the foot measures 7.5 (7.25, 7) inches from the back of the heel._
_Self-check: You should have 56 (64, 72) sts on the needles before starting the toe._

### TOE

Using **MC only**.
Divide sts evenly onto two needles if using DPNs or for Kitchener stitch later. For 56 sts, 28 sts on each needle. For 64 sts, 32 sts on each needle. For 72 sts, 36 sts on each needle.
The marker is now the start of the first half of the toe. Place another marker to signify the start of the second half.

**Rnd 1:** *K1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of half, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts decreased)
**Rnd 2:** Knit all sts.

Repeat Rnds 1-2 until 24 (28, 32) sts remain.
Then, repeat Rnd 1 only until 20 (24, 28) sts remain.
Finally, repeat Rnd 1 only until 12 (12, 16) sts remain.
_Self-check: After the final decrease round, you should have 12 (12, 16) sts remaining._

Cut yarn, leaving a 10-12 inch (25-30 cm) tail.
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.
Graft the remaining stitches together using the Kitchener stitch.

---

## FINISHING

*   Weave in all loose ends.
*   **Blocking (Critical for Colorwork):** Gently wet block your socks. Immerse them in lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash for 20-30 minutes. Squeeze out excess water gently (do not twist). Lay them flat to dry, or gently shape them over sock blockers. Blocking will help even out your stitches, relax the colorwork floats, and ensure the pattern lies flat. Avoid excessive stretching during blocking, especially with colorwork, to prevent distortion.

Enjoy your new Teddy Bear Socks!