purlJam

# Textural Thicket Socks (Toe-Up)

**Description**
This is an intermediate crochet sock pattern worked toe-up. These socks feature the "Thicket Stitch" (also known as the Suzette stitch), which provides a "fancy" textured appearance while maintaining the density required for comfortable wear. The heel is constructed using a short-row "shadow" method for a seamless fit.

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate

### 1. Yarn Weight
**Fingering / 4-ply / Sock Weight (Category 1)**
Recommended: Wool blend with 20-25% nylon or polyamide for durability.
*Quantity:* Approx. 100g / 400m (437 yds).

### 2. Hook Size
**2.25 mm to 2.5 mm** (Check tension carefully).
*Note: Go down 1-2 sizes from standard yarn label recommendations to create a stiff, durable fabric.*

### 3. Essential Materials
*   100g Fingering weight sock yarn
*   Stitch markers (locking)
*   Yarn needle (darning needle)
*   Scissors
*   Tape measure

### Tension (Gauge)
**Important:** 32 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Double Crochet (UK).
*Or: 8 stitches per inch.*

**Terminology (UK Terms)**
*   **ch:** chain
*   **dc:** double crochet (US single crochet)
*   **tr:** treble crochet (US double crochet)
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **sl st:** slip stitch
*   **inc:** increase (2 dc in same st)
*   **dec:** decrease (dc2tog)
*   **BLO:** back loop only
*   **Thicket Stitch:** (1 dc, 1 tr) in same st, skip next st.

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### 4. Sock Construction (Toe-Up Method)

#### THE TOE
*Worked in a continuous spiral without joining rounds. Mark the first stitch of every round.*

**Rnd 1:** Start with a Magic Ring. Work 12 dc into ring. Pull tight. [12 sts]
**Rnd 2:** 2 dc in each st around. [12 * 2 = 24 sts]
**Rnd 3:** *1 dc, inc; rep from * around. [24 + 12 = 36 sts]
*Note: We will now switch to standard oval increases (4 sts per round).*

**Rnd 4:** 1 dc in each st around. [36 sts]
**Rnd 5:** *Inc, 16 dc, inc, 1 st unworked?* (Adjustment for oval shape):
*Corrected Logic for smooth oval toe:*
**Rnd 5:** (Inc, 17 dc) twice. [36 + 2 = 38 sts]
**Rnd 6:** (Inc, 18 dc) twice. [38 + 2 = 40 sts]
**Rnd 7:** (Inc, 19 dc) twice. [40 + 2 = 42 sts]
**Rnd 8:** (Inc, 20 dc) twice. [42 + 2 = 44 sts]
**Rnd 9:** (Inc, 21 dc) twice. [44 + 2 = 46 sts]
**Rnd 10:** (Inc, 22 dc) twice. [46 + 2 = 48 sts]
**Rnd 11:** (Inc, 23 dc) twice. [48 + 2 = 50 sts]
**Rnd 12:** (Inc, 24 dc) twice. [50 + 2 = 52 sts]
**Rnd 13:** (Inc, 25 dc) twice. [52 + 2 = 54 sts]
**Rnd 14:** (Inc, 26 dc) twice. [54 + 2 = 56 sts]
**Rnd 15:** (Inc, 27 dc) twice. [56 + 2 = 58 sts]
**Rnd 16:** (Inc, 28 dc) twice. [58 + 2 = 60 sts]
**Rnd 17:** (Inc, 29 dc) twice. [60 + 2 = 62 sts]
**Rnd 18:** (Inc, 30 dc) twice. [62 + 2 = 64 sts]
**Rnd 19:** (Inc, 31 dc) twice. [64 + 2 = 66 sts]

*Verification:* Total circumference is 66 sts. At 8 sts/inch, $66 / 8 = 8.25$ inches. Matches user requirement exactly.
**Rnd 20:** dc in each st around. [66 sts]

#### THE FOOT
*Establish Fancy Stitch Pattern (Thicket Stitch).*
The pattern uses a multiple of 2 stitches.

**Rnd 1:** *(1 dc, 1 tr) in next st, skip next st; rep from * around. Do not join; continue in spiral. [66 sts]
**Rnd 2:** Skip the first tr of the previous round. Work (1 dc, 1 tr) into the next dc. *Skip next tr, work (1 dc, 1 tr) into next dc; rep from * around.
*Tech Tip: You are always working your cluster into the dc of the previous row, skipping the tr.*

**Continue working Rnd 2** until the piece measures **19 cm (7.5 inches)** from the tip of the toe.
*Calculation: Total length 9.5" (24cm) minus 2" (5cm) for heel depth = 7.5" (19cm).*

#### THE HEEL (Short Row / Shadow Style)
*The heel is worked in plain double crochet (UK) for durability over half the stitches (33 sts). The instep stitches (33 sts) are left unworked.*

**Setup:** Dc across the first 33 sts. Place marker in the 34th st (this begins the instep) and leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

**Phase 1: Narrowing (The Decline)**
*Row 1 (WS):* Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc 32, leave last st unworked. Turn. [32 worked sts]
*Row 2 (RS):* Ch 1, dc 31, leave last st unworked. Turn. [31 worked sts]
*Row 3 (WS):* Ch 1, dc 30, leave last st unworked. Turn. [30 worked sts]

Continue in this manner, leaving 1 extra stitch unworked at the end of every row, until you have **11 stitches** remaining in the centre.
*Math check: Start 33. Side 1 decreases 11, Side 2 decreases 11. Centre remains 11. $11+11+11=33$.*

**Phase 2: Widening (The Incline)**
*To close the gaps (the "Shadow" effect), you will work into the unworked stitches from Phase 1.*

*Row 1 (RS):* Ch 1, dc across centre sts. When you reach the gap, dc into the unworked st from the row below. Sl st into the *next* unworked st on the side to anchor. Turn.
*Row 2 (WS):* Skip the sl st. Dc across to the next gap. Dc into the unworked st. Sl st into the *next* unworked st to anchor. Turn.

Repeat these two rows, working outwards and consuming one "unworked" stitch from the sides each time, until all 33 heel stitches are active again.

**Resume Round:**
Work across the 33 heel sts, then continue in Thicket Stitch pattern across the 33 instep stitches.
Resume working in the round over all 66 sts.

#### THE LEG
Resume Thicket Stitch pattern (as done for the foot) over all 66 stitches.
Continue until leg measures approx. 15 cm (6 inches) or desired height.

#### THE CUFF
*Worked vertically and joined to the leg as you go for elasticity.*

1.  Ch 13 (measures approx 4-5 cm).
2.  **Row 1:** Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (12 dc). Sl st into the next stitch of the Leg edge. Sl st into the *next* stitch of the Leg edge (to move up for the return row). Turn.
3.  **Row 2:** Skip the 2 sl sts. Working in **BLO** (Back Loop Only), dc in each st across (12 dc). Ch 1, turn.
4.  **Row 3:** Dc in BLO across. Sl st into next 2 sts of Leg edge. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the leg opening.
**Join:** Sl st the last row to the foundation chain of the cuff to close the tube.

### 5. Size Guidance
*Based on 8 sts per inch gauge.*
*   **Small:** 7-7.5" circumference (~56-60 sts)
*   **Medium (This Pattern):** 8-8.5" circumference (66 sts)
*   **Large:** 9-9.5" circumference (~72-76 sts)

### 6. Stitch Patterns
*   **Main Stitch (Thicket/Suzette):** (1 dc, 1 tr) in same st, skip 1. Creates a dense, textured fabric that breaks up pooling in variegated yarns.
*   **Heel Stitch:** Plain Double Crochet (UK) for maximum abrasion resistance.

### 7. Key Techniques
*   **Tension is King:** If your gauge is looser than 8 sts/inch, the socks will be too big and wear out quickly due to friction.
*   **Shadow/Gapless Heel:** When working the "Widening" phase of the heel, ensure you pull your slip stitches tight to prevent holes at the turning points.
*   **Thicket Stitch Anatomy:** Always ensure you are working your (dc, tr) group into the **dc** of the previous row. If you work into the tr, the texture will not align correctly.

### 8. Common Requests
*   **'Slipper socks':** Switch to DK weight yarn and a 3.5mm-4.0mm hook. Adjust stitch count to ~44 sts.
*   **'Boot socks':** Extend the leg section to 8-10 inches before starting the cuff.

### 9. Pattern Modifications
*   **Contrast Heel/Toe:** Change colour immediately before starting the Heel setup and change back after all heel stitches are reclaimed. Change colour for the Toe at the cast-on.
*   **Arch Support:** Switch to a smaller hook (2.0mm) for the section of the foot between the toe and the heel to create a tighter fabric around the arch.

### 10. Finishing
1.  Cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail.
2.  Weave in all ends securely on the inside of the sock.
3.  **Blocking:** Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 15 minutes. Squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to dry, pinning to dimensions (foot length 24 cm) if necessary to open up the fancy stitch pattern.
4.  Make a second sock to match!