purlJam

<pattern>
# THE ARAN ZIP-FRONT SHAWL CARDIGAN

**DIFFICULTY LEVEL:** Intermediate / Advanced
**CONSTRUCTION:** Top-down Raglan

### MATERIALS
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight wool (approx. 200m per 100g).
    *   **Main Colour (MC):** 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1700) metres. 
    *   *Note: As this is a single-colour design, Contrast Colours (CC1-6) from the template are omitted to satisfy the user design request.*
*   **Needles:** 
    *   4.5 mm (UK 7) circular needles (80 cm and 40 cm).
    *   3.75 mm (UK 9) circular needles (80 cm for ribbing).
*   **Notions:** 8 stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for cable placement), cable needle, tapestry needle, 60 (60, 65, 65, 70) cm heavy-duty zipper.

### GAUGE (TENSION)
20 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm (4") in Cabled Pattern (Chart A/B mix) using 4.5 mm needles after blocking.
*Note: Cables pull in significantly. Ensure you swatch the chart patterns, not just stocking stitch.*

### SIZES
*   **S:** To fit bust 81-86 cm (Finished garment: 92 cm)
*   **M:** To fit bust 91-97 cm (Finished garment: 102 cm)
*   **L:** To fit bust 102-107 cm (Finished garment: 112 cm)
*   **XL:** To fit bust 112-117 cm (Finished garment: 122 cm)
*   **2XL:** To fit bust 122-127 cm (Finished garment: 132 cm)

### ABBREVIATIONS
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **m1l / m1r:** make 1 left / make 1 right (increases)
*   **C4F:** Slip 2 sts to cable needle (cn) and hold at front, k2, k2 from cn.
*   **C4B:** Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold at back, k2, k2 from cn.
*   **T4F:** Slip 2 sts to cn and hold at front, p2, k2 from cn.
*   **T4B:** Slip 2 sts to cn and hold at back, k2, p2 from cn.
*   **pm / sm:** place marker / slip marker.

### NOTES
1.  **Top-Down Construction:** This cardigan is worked from the neck down. 
2.  **Edge Stitches:** The first and last stitch of every row should be knitted (selvedge) to provide a stable base for the zipper.
3.  **Cable Integration:** When increasing for the raglan, new stitches are worked into the cable motifs as soon as enough stitches exist to complete a cable cross.

### CHARTS
*Visualise the following 12-stitch repeat for the main body cable (Chart A: Lattice) and 4-stitch repeat for the secondary cable (Chart B: Rope).*

**Chart A (Lattice - 12 sts):**
Rows 1, 3, 5 (RS): P2, k8, p2.
Row 2 and all WS rows: K2, p8, k2.
Row 7: P2, C4B, C4F, p2.
Row 9: T4B, k4, T4F.
Row 11: K2, T4B, T4F, k2.

**Chart B (Rope - 4 sts):**
Rows 1, 3, 5: K4.
Row 7: C4F.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8: P4.

### YOKE
With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 62 (66, 66, 70, 70) sts.
Work 4 rows in 1x1 rib (k1, p1).
Switch to 4.5 mm needles.

**Set-up Row (RS):**
K1 (edge), p1, k4 (Chart B - Front), p1, pm (Raglan), p1, k4 (Chart B - Sleeve), p1, pm (Raglan), p1, k38 (42, 42, 46, 46) (Chart A repeats - Back), p1, pm (Raglan), p1, k4 (Chart B - Sleeve), p1, pm (Raglan), p1, k4 (Chart B - Front), p1, k1 (edge).

**Raglan Increase Row (RS):**
*Work in pattern to marker, m1r, sm, k1 (raglan st), m1l.* Repeat for all 4 markers. (8 sts increased).
**WS Row:** Work stitches as they appear (purl the knits, knit the purls, purl the raglan sts).

Continue Raglan Increase Row every RS row 28 (31, 35, 38, 42) times.
**Total stitch count:** 286 (314, 346, 374, 406) sts.

### BODY
**Separate Sleeves:**
Work across Left Front, place 60 (66, 74, 80, 88) sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts for underarm, work across Back, place next sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts for underarm, work across Right Front.

**Main Body:**
Continue working in established cable patterns.
Size M Math Check: 102 cm circumference / 5cm (approx 10 sts) = 204 sts total for body.
Work until body measures 35 cm from underarm or 5 cm less than desired length.
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work 5 cm in 2x2 rib. Cast off loosely.

### SLEEVES
Transfer sleeve sts to 4.5 mm DPNs or short circulars. Pick up 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts at underarm.
Work in cable pattern as established.
**Decrease Row:** K1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat decrease row every 8th row 10 times.
Work until sleeve measures 45 cm from underarm.
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work 6 cm in 2x2 rib. Cast off.

### ZIPPER BANDS & COLLAR
**Zipper Facing (Left & Right):**
With 3.75 mm needles and RS facing, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along the front edges.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off. This creates a small lip to hide the zipper tape.

**High Shawl Collar:**
With 3.75 mm needles, pick up 110 (114, 114, 118, 118) sts starting from the Right Front neck edge, around the back, to the Left Front.
1. Work 1x1 rib for 2 cm.
2. **Short Row Shaping:**
   Row 1 (RS): Work to last 10 sts, turn.
   Row 2 (WS): Work to last 10 sts, turn.
   Row 3: Work to last 15 sts, turn.
   Row 4: Work to last 15 sts, turn.
   Continue in this manner, working 5 fewer sts each time until the collar is 12 cm high at the centre back.
3. Work one final row across all sts. Cast off very loosely in rib.

### FINISHING
**Blocking:**
Soak garment in lukewarm water with wool wash. Lay flat to dry. **CRITICAL:** Pin the cables out to reveal the definition, but do not over-stretch the ribbing. Ensure the front edges are perfectly straight for the zipper.

**Zipper Installation:**
Pin the zipper behind the front edge, tucked under the "facing" lip. Using a sewing needle and matching thread, sew using a backstitch. Ensure the cables align across the zipper when closed.

**Weave in ends.** Trim excess zipper tape if necessary and secure with a fabric tab.