Type
Knitting
Difficulty
beginner
Category
pullover
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: Easy boxy drop-shoulder pullover with a charted dragon motif on the front in stranded colorwork (or duplicate stitch alternative for absolute beginners). Boatneck for simplicity.
2. **Construction Plan**: Knit flat in pieces (back rectangle, front rectangle with dragon chart), seam shoulders leaving center open for boatneck, pick up sleeves and knit down to cuff.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Ensure dragon chart is centered horizontally and positioned on chest (not lost under arm).
- Maintain even tension on stranded sections to avoid puckering.
- Sleeve pick-up count must match armhole depth × row gauge.
4. **Final Calculations**:
- Gauge: 18 sts × 24 rows = 4" in stockinette, US 8 / 5 mm.
- Sizes S(M, L, XL, 2XL) finished bust: 40(44, 48, 52, 56)".
- CO for back/front: 90(99, 108, 117, 126) sts.
- Body length to shoulder: 24(24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)".
- Shoulder width each side: 27(30, 33, 36, 39) sts; neck = 36(39, 42, 45, 48) sts.
- Sleeve pickup: armhole depth 9(9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)" → 81(86, 90, 95, 99) sts, round to 82(86, 90, 94, 98).
- Sleeve length to cuff: 17.5".
Verification
1. **Completeness**: Includes materials, gauge, sizing, back, front (with dragon chart), shoulder join, sleeves, neckband, finishing. ✓
2. **Consistency**: 90 sts ÷ 18 sts/4" = 20" × 2 = 40" bust. ✓ Shoulder math: 27+36+27=90. ✓
3. **Constraints**: Dragon motif (colorwork chart), easy difficulty (boatneck, no shaping, simple chart), drop shoulder template followed. ✓
4. **Safety**: Sleeve pick-up: 9" × 24 rows/4" × 2 sides accounted as total perimeter sts; pickup ratio 3 sts per 4 rows verified. ✓
Pattern
# 🐉 The Dragon's Hoard Pullover
### A Boxy Drop-Shoulder Sweater with a Stranded Dragon Motif
**Skill Level:** Easy (Advanced Beginner — introduces simple two-color stranded knitting)
**Construction:** Knit flat in pieces; drop-shoulder; boatneck; sleeves picked up and knit down.
---
## SIZES
S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
**Finished Bust:** 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)" / 101.5 (112, 122, 132, 142) cm
**Recommended Ease:** 6–8" / 15–20 cm of positive ease (boxy/oversized fit)
**Finished Length:** 24 (24½, 25, 25½, 26)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66) cm
---
## MATERIALS
**Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), smooth wool or wool blend recommended for crisp colorwork.
- **MC (Main Color – body):** 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1350) yds — suggested in a deep charcoal or forest green
- **CC (Contrast Color – dragon):** 100 yds — suggested in a metallic gold, ember red, or icy silver
**Needles:**
- US 7 / 4.5 mm — straight or circular (for ribbing)
- US 8 / 5 mm — straight or 24"/60 cm circular (for body)
- US 8 / 5 mm — 16"/40 cm circular (for neckband, optional)
- Set of US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or short circular (for cuffs)
**Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, stitch holders or scrap yarn, removable markers.
---
## GAUGE
**18 sts × 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles, blocked.
*Take the time to swatch — gauge is critical for fit and for the dragon chart proportions.*
---
## ABBREVIATIONS
- **CO** – cast on
- **BO** – bind off
- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **MC / CC** – main color / contrast color
- **St st** – stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS)
---
## PATTERN NOTES
- The **back** and **front** are plain rectangles — no armhole shaping. The drop-shoulder construction makes this an ideal first colorwork project.
- The **dragon motif** is worked in two-color stranded knitting on the front only. **Beginners may substitute duplicate stitch** worked after knitting (see Finishing).
- Carry the unused color loosely across the back of the work, catching floats longer than 5 sts.
- A boatneck is created simply by leaving the center stitches unseamed at the shoulders.
---
## BACK
With smaller needles and MC, **CO 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts.**
**Ribbing:** Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 2½" / 6.5 cm, ending with a WS row.
*Math check: 90 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4" = 20" wide × 2 pieces = 40" bust ✓*
Change to larger needles. Work in St st until piece measures **24 (24½, 25, 25½, 26)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66) cm** from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
**BO all 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts** loosely.
---
## FRONT
With smaller needles and MC, **CO 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts.**
**Ribbing:** Work 1×1 rib for 2½" / 6.5 cm, ending with a WS row.
Change to larger needles. Work in St st until piece measures **12 (12, 12½, 13, 13½)" / 30.5 (30.5, 32, 33, 34.5) cm** from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
### Begin Dragon Chart
The dragon motif is **40 sts wide × 50 rows tall.** Center it on the front:
- **Setup row (RS):** Place stitches as follows:
- K **25 (29, 34, 38, 43)** sts in MC
- Work **40 sts of Row 1 of Dragon Chart**
- K **25 (30, 34, 39, 43)** sts in MC
*Math check: 25+40+25=90 ✓ | 29+40+30=99 ✓ | 34+40+34=108 ✓ | 38+40+39=117 ✓ | 43+40+43=126 ✓*
- Continue working from chart, reading **RS rows right-to-left** and **WS rows left-to-right**, with MC in plain St st on either side.
- Work all 50 rows of the chart.
After completing the chart, continue in MC St st until front measures the same as back: **24 (24½, 25, 25½, 26)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66) cm.**
**BO all 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts** loosely.
---
## DRAGON CHART (40 sts × 50 rows)
A simplified beginner-friendly silhouette: a coiled, side-profile dragon with arched wings, tail curled beneath, and a single horn.
```
Legend: ░ = MC ■ = CC
Row 50 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← horn tip
Row 49 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 48 ░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← head
Row 47 ░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 46 ░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 45 ░░░░░░░░░■■■■■░■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← eye
Row 44 ░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 43 ░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← neck
Row 42 ░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 41 ░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 40 ░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← shoulder
Row 39 ░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 38 ░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 37 ░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← wings begin
Row 36 ░░░░░■■░■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 35 ░░░░■■░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 34 ░░░■■░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 33 ░░■■░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 32 ░■■░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← wing peak
Row 31 ■■░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 30 ░■■░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 29 ░░■■░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 28 ░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← body
Row 27 ░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 26 ░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░
Row 25 ░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░
Row 24 ░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░ ← belly
Row 23 ░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░
Row 22 ░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░
Row 21 ░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░
Row 20 ░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░ ← haunch
Row 19 ░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░
Row 18 ░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░
Row 17 ░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░
Row 16 ░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░ ← tail base
Row 15 ░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░
Row 14 ░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░
Row 13 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░ ← legs/claws
Row 12 ░░░░░■░░░░░■░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░
Row 11 ░░░░■■■░░░■■■░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░
Row 10 ░░░░░■░░░░░■░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░
Row 09 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 08 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 07 ░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← tail curls
Row 06 ░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 05 ░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 04 ░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 03 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
Row 02 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░■■░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ← tail tip
Row 01 ░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░
←————————————— 40 sts —————————————→
```
*Tip: Place a removable marker every 10 chart sts to keep your place.*
---
## JOIN SHOULDERS (Boatneck)
With RS facing, lay front and back together with right sides touching.
**Each shoulder uses 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) sts; the center 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts form the boatneck opening.**
*Math check: 27+36+27 = 90 ✓ | 30+39+30 = 99 ✓ | 33+42+33 = 108 ✓ | 36+45+36 = 117 ✓ | 39+48+39 = 126 ✓*
Using mattress stitch (or 3-needle bind-off if you held shoulder sts on waste yarn instead of binding off):
- **Seam right shoulder:** join the outer 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) sts of front and back.
- **Seam left shoulder:** join the outer 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) sts of front and back.
- Leave center 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts unseamed — this is your boatneck.
---
## SLEEVES (make 2)
Lay sweater flat. Mark a point **9 (9½, 10, 10½, 11)" / 23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28) cm** down from each shoulder seam on both front and back side edges. This is the armhole depth.
With larger needles, RS facing, and MC, **pick up and knit 82 (86, 90, 94, 98) sts** evenly between markers (across both front and back edges, with shoulder seam at center). Aim for a pickup ratio of approximately **3 sts per 4 rows.**
*Math check: 9" × 24 rows/4" = 54 rows per side × 2 sides = 108 row-edges; 108 × 3/4 = 81 sts → rounded to 82 ✓*
Join to work back and forth (sleeve is knit flat and seamed) OR, if working seamlessly, join in the round and work in St st.
**If knitting flat:** Beginning with a WS purl row, work in St st.
### Sleeve Shaping (Decreases)
**Decrease row (RS):** K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. *(2 sts decreased)*
Work decrease row every **6th row 14 times.**
Sleeve sts after shaping: **82 − 28 = 54 (58, 62, 66, 70) sts.**
Continue in St st with no further shaping until sleeve measures **15" / 38 cm** from pick-up edge (or 2½" / 6.5 cm shorter than desired total sleeve length).
### Cuff
Change to smaller needles. Work in 1×1 rib for **2½" / 6.5 cm.**
**BO all sts loosely** in pattern.
---
## NECKBAND (Boatneck)
The boatneck can be left as-is for a raw, modern edge, OR finished with a simple band as follows:
With smaller 16" circular needle and MC, RS facing, beginning at one shoulder seam, **pick up and knit approximately 80 (86, 92, 98, 104) sts** evenly around the neck opening (36/39/42/45/48 sts across front, same across back, plus a few at corners). Place marker, join in the round.
Work k1, p1 rib for **1" / 2.5 cm.**
**BO all sts loosely** in pattern.
---
## FINISHING
1. **Seam sleeves:** If knit flat, sew sleeve seam from cuff to underarm using mattress stitch.
2. **Seam sides:** Sew side seams from hem to underarm, matching ribbing and stitch rows carefully.
3. **Weave in all ends,** paying particular attention to color changes within the dragon chart. Secure floats on the WS.
4. **Block:** Wet block to finished measurements. Lay flat to dry, gently easing the dragon motif into shape.
### Optional: Duplicate-Stitch Dragon (Beginner Alternative)
If you preferred to skip stranded colorwork, knit the front entirely in MC. After blocking, use the chart and CC yarn to embroider the dragon onto the front using duplicate stitch, centering the motif as described in the Front instructions.
---
## SCHEMATIC SUMMARY
| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust (finished) | 40" | 44" | 48" | 52" | 56" |
| Total length | 24" | 24½" | 25" | 25½" | 26" |
| Armhole depth | 9" | 9½" | 10" | 10½" | 11" |
| Shoulder width (each) | 6" | 6⅔" | 7⅓" | 8" | 8⅔" |
| Neck opening width | 8" | 8⅔" | 9⅓" | 10" | 10⅔" |
| Upper sleeve | 18¼" | 19" | 20" | 20⅞" | 21¾" |
| Cuff circumference | 12" | 13" | 13¾" | 14¾" | 15½" |
| Sleeve length | 17½" | 17½" | 17½" | 17½" | 17½" |
---
🐉 *May your dragon guard your warmth through every winter. Happy knitting!*
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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