🌲 THE FOREST SURPLICE

A Wrap-Style Cropped Tank Top with V-Neck, Short Sleeves & Ribbed Waistband

A fitted, textured cropped tank featuring a crossover (surplice) V-neck front, breezy short sleeves, and a wide stretchy ribbed waistband. Worked in a dense, cushy textured stitch that shows off cotton beautifully. Beginner-friendly, seamed for a clean professional finish.

Skill Level: Easy (Advanced Beginner) Color: Forest Green (#355E3B) Construction: Worked flat in pieces, then seamed. Waistband worked sideways in ribbing.

📋 MATERIALS

Yardage by Size (approx., add 10% buffer)

Suggested Colors

Forest Green (main) • Sage Green • Cream • Dusty Rose • Mustard Yellow • Terracotta • Navy Blue • Black • White • Burgundy

📏 GAUGE

In Suzette Stitch (body): 16 sts × 14 rows = 4" × 4" (10 × 10 cm) → 4 sts per inch, 3.5 rows per inch

In Ribbing (BLO sc), unstretched: 18 sts × 20 rows = 4" × 4"

⚠️ Gauge is essential for fit. Make a 5" × 5" swatch in Suzette stitch and block it before starting. Adjust hook size to match.

📐 SIZES & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Designed for a fitted silhouette with 2" negative ease at the bust (garment is smaller than body; cotton + ribbing stretch to fit). Cropped length hits at high waist.

*Body length = ribbed waistband (2.5") + textured body.

Key Stitch Counts (memorize your size’s column)

All start counts are even numbers (required for Suzette stitch). Back start ÷ 4 = garment back width in inches (e.g., XS 60 ÷ 4 = 15" → back 15" + front overlap = 30" bust). ✓

🔤 ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)

✨ SPECIAL STITCH

Suzette Stitch (SzS): (sc, dc) all in the same stitch, sk next st. This is the dense textured body stitch.

• Worked over an even number of stitches.
• Each row: ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), then work [sc + dc in same st, sk 1] across; end with a single sc in the last stitch.
• Stitch count stays constant every row — no accidental increases.

💡 Tip: You always place your (sc, dc) pair into the "gap" made by the previous sc, and skip the dc. Once you see the rhythm it's automatic.

📝 PATTERN NOTES

• Turning chain (ch 1) does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern.
• Body pieces worked flat in Suzette stitch. Ribbing worked flat in BLO sc.
• Stitch counts given at end of rows in parentheses.
• Front is two overlapping panels (right-over-left, or reverse for personal preference) creating the surplice V-neck.
• "Seamless professional finish" = pieces are mattress/whip stitched invisibly. Keep seams flat.
• Read your size’s numbers from the tables. Example rows below use Size M; substitute your numbers.

🧶 INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1 — BACK PANEL

With H-8 hook and main color.

Foundation: Ch [Back start sts + 1]. (M: ch 73) Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. (M: 72 sc)

Establish Suzette: Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sk first st, (sc, dc) in next st, sk next st, (sc, dc) in next st; rep from * across until 1 st remains, sc in last st. (72 sts — count all sc + dc) Rows 3 to [Body rows]: Rep Row 2. (M: work through Row 33; 72 sts each row)

Armhole shaping begins after you reach half the body rows. For simplicity in this easy pattern, armholes are shaped at both edges over the last 8 rows:

Armhole Row A (both sides): At beg of row, sl st over first 2 sts, ch 1, work Suzette across until 2 sts remain, sc in next st (leave last st unworked), turn. (Decreases 4 sts total) Rep Armhole Row A once more. (M: 72 → 64 sts) Then work remaining rows straight in Suzette to reach total Body rows.

Shoulders: Work final row in sc across for a clean shoulder edge. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Back complete. Width check M: 72 sts ÷ 4 = 18" flat. ✓

PART 2 — LEFT FRONT PANEL (surplice)

This panel is a right triangle: full width at the side seam, angling up to the shoulder, creating the diagonal V-neck edge.

With H-8 hook and main color.

Foundation: Ch [Each Front start sts + 1]. (M: ch 53) Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (M: 52 sc) Row 2: Establish Suzette as for Back. (52 sts)

V-neck diagonal decrease: Work in Suzette, decreasing 2 sts at the NECK EDGE (right edge as worn) every other row: Neck-dec row: Ch 1, turn, work Suzette across until 3 sts remain, sc2tog over next 2, sc in last st. (−2 sts) Alternate one plain Suzette row between each neck-dec row.

Continue until [Each Front start − 20] sts remain. (M: 52 → 32 sts)

Armhole shaping (side edge only — the straight left edge): when you reach the same total row count as the Back armhole start, sl st over 2 sts at the side edge once. (−2 sts, then −2 again next armhole row: M ends ~28 sts)

Continue straight until piece matches Back length. Final row sc across. Fasten off with long tail.

PART 3 — RIGHT FRONT PANEL

Work exactly as Left Front, mirrored: place all neck decreases at the opposite (left as worn) edge, and armhole decreases at the opposite side.

💡 The two fronts overlap at center: Right Front laps over Left Front (or your preference) to form the V. Together they span ~2× a single front minus the overlap ≈ full bust front width. For M: two 52-st fronts overlapping ≈ full front matching 18" back. ✓

PART 4 — SHORT SLEEVES (make 2)

With H-8 hook and main color.

Foundation: Ch [Sleeve start sts + 1]. (M: ch 49) Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (M: 48 sc) Row 2 onward: Work in Suzette stitch for 10 rows total (short cap-free sleeve). (M: 48 sts each row)

Sleeve cap shaping (last 4 rows): Each row: sl st over 2 sts at beg, work Suzette until 2 sts remain, sc in next, leave last unworked. (−4 sts per row) After 4 shaping rows: M: 48 → 32 sts. Fasten off, long tail.

PART 5 — WAISTBAND RIBBING (worked sideways)

With G-6 hook (tighter) and main color. This ribbed band is worked as a long strip, then stitched to the bottom of the assembled body.

Foundation: Ch 13. (creates a 2.5"-tall band: 12 sc rows tall) Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (12 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc BLO in each st across. (12 sc) Rows 3 to [Waistband rows]: Rep Row 2, working BLO every row to create vertical ribs. (M: 132 rows)

The BLO ribbing stretches lengthwise. Waistband row count is set ~10% shorter than body circumference so it hugs snugly. (M: 132 ribs ≈ 26.4" relaxed, stretches to fit 36" body.) ✓

Fasten off, long tail. Do not seam yet.

🪡 ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces first (see Blocking). Use tapestry needle + mattress stitch on RS seams for invisibility, or whip stitch on WS.

1. Shoulder seams: Lay Back RS up. Place each Front’s shoulder edge to the Back’s shoulder. Seam Left Front shoulder to left back shoulder; repeat right. The Front necklines will naturally cross at center front forming the V.
2. Overlap fronts: Cross Right Front over Left Front at center. Pin the crossover point; tack with a few discreet stitches at the deepest V point and at the side seams to hold the wrap in place.
3. Side seams: Fold at shoulders. Seam each Front side edge to Back side edge from armhole down to hem. Leave armhole openings.
4. Sleeve seams: Fold each sleeve in half RS together; seam the underarm edge into a tube.
5. Set in sleeves: Match sleeve cap to armhole opening (underarm seam to side seam). Pin evenly and seam around.
6. Attach waistband: Bring the two short ends of the ribbing strip together and seam into a loop. With RS facing, pin the long edge of the ribbing loop evenly around the entire bottom body edge, stretching ribbing slightly to match. Whip stitch in place.

🎀 FINISHING

• Neckline edging: With G-6 hook, join at one side seam and work a row of sc evenly along the entire crossover V-neck and back neck. Work sc2tog occasionally at inner V corner to keep it flat. Sl st to join, fasten off.
• Armhole/sleeve edge: Optional single round of sc around sleeve hem for a crisp finish.
• Weave in all ends securely on the WS. Trim.
• Give side seams and V-neck a final light steam.

💧 BLOCKING TIPS

1. Wet block cotton for best results: soak pieces in cool water 15 min, gently squeeze (don’t wring).
2. Pin each piece to measurements on a blocking mat; keep edges straight and square. Do not stretch the ribbing — let it relax naturally.
3. Air dry fully before seaming. Cotton holds its blocked shape well.
4. After assembly, a light steam over the V-neck and seams gives the "professional finish."

✅ MATH VALIDATION SUMMARY

• Gauge 4 sts/in confirmed: Back M 72 sts ÷ 4 = 18" ✓
• Bust M: Back 18" + Front (2 panels overlapping ≈ 18") = 36" finished = target ✓
• Suzette keeps stitch count constant each row (no drift) ✓
• Armhole dec: 72 − (4+4) = 64 sts matches stated ✓
• Sleeve cap: 48 − (4×4) = 32 sts matches ✓
• Waistband ribbing 12 sc rows tall × ~0.2"/row ≈ 2.4–2.5" band ✓
• All size start counts even → Suzette-compatible ✓

Enjoy your Forest Surplice! Tag your finished makes and wear it wrapped, cropped, and cozy. 🌲