purlJam

# The Gentleman's V-Neck Vest
### A Tailored Worsted-Weight Waistcoat for Dressy Occasions

A classic fitted men's vest (waistcoat) designed for weddings, dinners, and other fancy occasions. Worked flat in three pieces with subtle waist shaping, a clean V-neck, tailored armholes, and a five-button front closure. Half double crochet creates a dense, refined fabric that drapes beautifully under a jacket or stands alone with a crisp shirt.

**Difficulty:** Advanced

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (medium/#4), smooth wool or wool-blend recommended for a tailored look.
  - **Yardage:** Approx. 900–1,000 yds (825–915 m) for size Small.
- **Hook:** US H/8 (5.0 mm) — main hook
  - US G/6 (4.0 mm) — for edging/button band (creates a firmer, non-flaring border)
- **Notions:**
  - 5 buttons, ¾" (19 mm) diameter
  - Tapestry needle
  - Stitch markers (6+)
  - Sharp sewing needle and matching thread (for attaching buttons)
  - Blocking mat and pins

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## Gauge

**14 hdc × 11 rows = 4" (10 cm)** with US H/8 hook in half double crochet.

That equals **3.5 sts per inch** and **2.75 rows per inch**.

> **Gauge is critical for fit.** Make a 5" × 5" swatch, block it, and measure. If you have more stitches per inch, go up a hook size; fewer, go down.

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## Sizes

Written for **Adult Small**.
- **Finished chest:** 38" (96.5 cm) — includes ~2" of wearing ease over a 36" body.
- **Finished length (shoulder to hem):** approx. 23" (58.5 cm).
- **Armhole depth:** 9" (23 cm).

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## Abbreviations (US Terms)

| Abbr. | Meaning |
|-------|---------|
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sc | single crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| hdc2tog | half double crochet 2 together (decrease) |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sk | skip |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| beg | beginning |

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## Special Stitches

- **hdc2tog (decrease):** [Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop] twice (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 5 loops. *Reduces stitch count by 1.*
- **Chainless starting hdc (optional):** May be substituted for the turning ch-2 for a cleaner edge. If used, count it as your first hdc.

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## Pattern Notes

- The vest is worked **flat in three pieces**: one **Back**, one **Left Front**, one **Right Front**. Pieces are seamed at the shoulders and sides, then borders are added.
- **Turning chain:** Ch 2 at the beginning of each row. **The ch-2 counts as the first hdc** throughout unless stated otherwise.
- Work into **both loops** unless otherwise specified.
- Stitch counts are given at the **end of each row in parentheses**.
- "Left" and "Right" refer to the wearer's left and right as the garment is worn.
- Left and Right Fronts are **mirror images** — read carefully, as shaping falls on opposite edges.

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## BACK

**Foundation:** With US H/8 hook, ch 68.

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 chs count as first hdc) and in each ch across. **(66 sts)**

**Rows 2–8:** Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, hdc in each st across. **(66 sts)**
*Piece measures approx. 3" from foundation.*

### Waist Shaping (decrease)

**Row 9 (dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(64 sts)**

**Rows 10–13:** Work even in hdc. **(64 sts)**

**Row 14 (dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(62 sts)**

**Rows 15–18:** Work even. **(62 sts)**
*Piece measures approx. 6.5" — narrowest point at waist.*

### Waist Shaping (increase back to chest)

**Row 19 (inc):** Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. **(64 sts)**

**Rows 20–23:** Work even. **(64 sts)**

**Row 24 (inc):** Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. **(66 sts)**

**Rows 25–38:** Work even in hdc. **(66 sts)**
*Piece measures approx. 14" from foundation. Ready for armhole shaping.*

### Armhole Shaping

**Row 39:** Sl st across first 4 sts, ch 2 (counts as hdc — first of the remaining sts), hdc across to last 4 sts, turn, leaving last 4 sts unworked. **(58 sts)**

**Row 40 (dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(56 sts)**

**Row 41 (dec):** Rep Row 40. **(54 sts)**

**Row 42 (dec):** Rep Row 40. **(52 sts)**

**Rows 43–63:** Work even in hdc. **(52 sts)**
*Armhole measures approx. 9" deep (25 rows from Row 39). Total length approx. 23".*

### Back Neck & Shoulders

**Row 64:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 14 sts (15 sts total worked including turning ch), turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. **(15 sts — right shoulder)**

**Row 65:** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc to end. **(14 sts)**
Fasten off.

**Rejoin** yarn with RS facing to the **15th st from the opposite armhole edge**:
Count 22 center sts for the back neck (52 − 15 − 15 = 22). Skip the center 22 sts, join yarn to the next st.

**Row 64 (left shoulder):** Ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts. **(15 sts)**

**Row 65:** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(14 sts)**
Fasten off.

> **Check:** 14 + 22 + 14 = 50, plus the 2 turning-ch stitches counted in each shoulder = 52. ✓

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## RIGHT FRONT
*(Worn on wearer's right; buttonhole band side.)*

**Foundation:** With US H/8 hook, ch 35.

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. **(33 sts)**

**Rows 2–8:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. **(33 sts)**

### Waist Shaping — decrease on side edge only

The **side edge** is the edge that will seam to the Back. On the Right Front worked RS facing, the side edge is the **end of RS rows / beginning of WS rows**. To keep shaping consistent, place a marker on the side (armhole) edge.

**Row 9 (dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(32 sts)**

**Rows 10–13:** Work even. **(32 sts)**

**Row 14 (dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(31 sts)**

**Rows 15–18:** Work even. **(31 sts)**

**Row 19 (inc):** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. **(32 sts)**

**Rows 20–23:** Work even. **(32 sts)**

**Row 24 (inc):** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. **(33 sts)**

**Rows 25–38:** Work even. **(33 sts)**
*Piece measures approx. 14". Ready for armhole and V-neck shaping (these occur simultaneously — read ahead).*

### Armhole Shaping (side edge)

**Row 39:** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last 4 sts, turn, leaving last 4 sts unworked (armhole edge). **(29 sts)**

**Row 40 (armhole dec):** Ch 2, turn, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. **(28 sts)**

**Row 41:** Rep Row 40. **(27 sts)**

**Row 42:** Rep Row 40. **(26 sts)**

### V-Neck Shaping (front/center edge)

Beginning now, decrease **1 st at the neck edge** (the center-front edge, opposite the armhole) every RS row. The neck edge is the **beginning of RS rows**.

**Row 43 (neck dec):** Ch 2, hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc to end. **(25 sts)**

**Rows 44:** Work even. **(25 sts)**

**Row 45 (neck dec):** Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to end. **(24 sts)**

**Row 46:** Work even. **(24 sts)**

Continue in this manner — **neck-edge hdc2tog every other row** — on Rows 47, 51, 55, 59, 63 (5 more decreases):

- Row 47: **(23 sts)**
- Row 51: **(22 sts)**
- Row 55: **(21 sts)**
- Row 59: **(20 sts)**
- Row 63: **(19 sts)**

Work even rows between as needed. Total neck decreases from Row 43 = 7 decreases → 26 − 7 = 19 sts... adjust: continue until **14 sts** remain by working 5 additional plain decreases through Row 63.

> **Corrected V-neck target:** From 26 sts, decrease 1 st at neck edge every RS row until **14 shoulder sts** remain (12 decreases total). Work armhole edge even after Row 42. When 14 sts remain and piece measures 23", work even to Row 63.

**Rows to shoulder:** Work even on **14 sts** until Right Front matches Back length (Row 63, approx. 23").
Fasten off.

> **Check:** 26 armhole-shaped sts − 12 neck decreases = 14 shoulder sts to match Back shoulder. ✓

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## LEFT FRONT
*(Worn on wearer's left; button band side. Mirror all shaping.)*

Work exactly as Right Front, **reversing all shaping**:
- Waist decreases/increases fall at the **beginning of RS rows** (side edge).
- Armhole shaping (Row 39 sl-st and Row 40–42 decreases) falls at the **end of RS rows**.
- V-neck decreases fall at the **end of RS rows** (neck edge): *hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.*

End with **14 shoulder sts** at Row 63.
Fasten off.

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## ASSEMBLY

1. **Block** all three pieces to measurements. Let dry completely.
2. **Shoulder seams:** With RS together, whipstitch or mattress-stitch each 14-st Front shoulder to the corresponding 14-st Back shoulder.
3. **Side seams:** Align armhole edges and hems; seam from hem to underarm on both sides. Leave armholes open.

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## ARMHOLE BORDERS
*(Make 2, one per armhole.)*

With US G/6 hook and RS facing, join yarn at the underarm seam.

**Round 1:** Sc evenly around the armhole opening, working approx. 3 sc for every 4 rows along the vertical edges and 1 sc per st along horizontal edges. Aim for a multiple that lies flat (approx. 64 sc). Join with sl st to first sc.

**Round 2:** Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.

> **Tip:** If the border ruffles, you have too many stitches — pull back and skip an occasional stitch. If it puckers, add stitches.

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## FRONT BAND & V-NECK EDGING (Buttonhole Band)

Worked in one continuous piece up the Right Front, around the back neck, and down the Left Front.

With US G/6 hook and RS facing, join yarn at the **bottom Right Front corner**.

**Round/Row 1 (sc base):** Ch 1. Sc evenly up the Right Front edge (approx. 3 sc per 4 rows), across the diagonal V-neck edge, around the back neck (1 sc per st), down the diagonal Left V-neck, and down the Left Front edge. Turn.

**Row 2:** Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

**Buttonhole Row 3 (Right Front only, then continue plain):**
Determine button placement on the **Right Front vertical section**. Mark 5 evenly spaced buttonhole positions: the lowest ~1" above the hem, the highest ~1" below the start of the V-neck, and 3 spaced evenly between.

Work sc to first buttonhole position, *ch 2, sk 2 sc*, sc to next position; rep from * for all 5 buttonholes. Continue plain sc around the neck and down the Left Front. Turn.

**Row 4:** Ch 1, sc in each sc and **2 sc in each ch-2 space** across. Turn.

**Row 5:** Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

> **Neat corners:** Work 3 sc into the two bottom front corners on the base round to keep them square.

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends securely with a tapestry needle.
2. **Attach buttons** to the **Left Front band**, aligned horizontally with the buttonholes on the Right Front. Use a sharp sewing needle and matching thread.
3. **Final block:** Lightly steam or wet-block the entire vest, gently squaring the fronts and smoothing the V-neck. Pin to final measurements and let dry.
4. Try on and enjoy — pair with a crisp collared shirt for those fancy places.

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### Finished Measurements Recap
- **Chest (buttoned):** 38" (66 back sts + 33 + 33 front sts = 132 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/in = 37.7" ≈ 38") ✓
- **Length:** 23" (63 rows ÷ 2.75 rows/in = 22.9") ✓
- **Armhole depth:** 9" (25 rows ÷ 2.75 = 9.1") ✓

*A note on the V-neck and buttonhole spacing:* because the front bands are worked at a firmer G/6 gauge and buttonholes are hand-placed, always **dry-fit and mark buttonholes on your actual pieces** before cutting spacing in stone. The 5-button layout is a guideline that suits the 38" Small; taller wearers may prefer 6 buttons spaced slightly farther apart.