purlJam

# The "Harbour" Garter Stitch Coat
**Designed for:** Intermediate Knitters
**Size:** UK 22 (To fit bust approx. 112–117 cm / 44–46 in)
**Finished Bust Measurement:** 133 cm (52.5 in) – *Includes approx. 16 cm positive ease for a loose coat fit.*

### Materials
*   **Yarn:** Approx. 1600–1700 metres of DK weight yarn. (Ensure yarn has good memory, e.g., wool or wool blend, to prevent excessive sagging).
*   **Needles:**
    *   4.5 mm (UK 7) circular needles, at least 100 cm long (for main body).
    *   4.5 mm (UK 7) double-pointed needles or short circulars (for sleeves).
    *   4.0 mm (UK 8) circular needles, at least 100 cm long (for ribbing bands).
*   **Notions:** 8 Stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle, 5-6 large sew-on poppers (snap fasteners), sewing needle and matching thread.

### Tension (Gauge)
20 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm (4 in) over garter stitch using 4.5 mm needles.
*Important: Garter stitch stretches vertically. Check your tension by washing and blocking your swatch, then hanging it up to dry to simulate the weight of the coat.*

### Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **RS:** right side (public side)
*   **WS:** wrong side (inside)
*   **PM:** place marker
*   **SM:** slip marker
*   **M1L:** Make 1 Left (pick up bar between stitches from front to back, knit into back of loop)
*   **M1R:** Make 1 Right (pick up bar between stitches from back to front, knit into front of loop)
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together
*   **tbl:** through back loop

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### INSTRUCTIONS

#### 1. Yoke (Top-Down Construction)
Using 4.5 mm circular needles (long cable), cast on **102 sts**.

**Set Up Row (WS):** K18 (Left Front), PM, k2 (raglan), PM, k12 (Left Sleeve), PM, k2 (raglan), PM, k34 (Back), PM, k2 (raglan), PM, k12 (Right Sleeve), PM, k2 (raglan), PM, k18 (Right Front).

**Row 1 (RS - Increase Row):**
*   Knit to marker, M1R, SM, k2, SM, M1L.
*   Knit to marker, M1R, SM, k2, SM, M1L.
*   Knit to marker, M1R, SM, k2, SM, M1L.
*   Knit to marker, M1R, SM, k2, SM, M1L.
*   Knit to end.
*[Validation: 102 start sts + 8 sts increased = 110 sts]*

**Row 2 (WS):** Knit all stitches (slipping markers as you pass them).

Repeat **Rows 1 and 2** another **41 times**.
*(Total of 42 increase rows).*

**Progress Check:**
*   You have worked 84 rows total (approx 21 cm raglan depth).
*   **Total Stitches:** 102 original + (42 rows × 8 incs) = **438 sts**.
*   **Section Counts:**
    *   Fronts: 18 + 42 = **60 sts** each.
    *   Sleeves: 12 + 42 = **54 sts** + 42 = **96 sts** each.
    *   Back: 34 + 42 + 42 = **118 sts**.
    *   Raglan seams: 4 sections of 2 sts = **8 sts**.

#### 2. Separating Body and Sleeves
**Next Row (RS):**
1.  Knit **60** Front sts.
2.  Remove marker, K1 (half of raglan st) into Front.
3.  Place next **96** Sleeve sts + 2 raglan sts (take 1 from each side of sleeve) onto a holder or waste yarn.
4.  Cast on **14 sts** (underarm) using the backward loop method.
5.  Knit 1 (remaining raglan st), Knit **118** Back sts, Knit 1 (raglan st).
6.  Place next **96** Sleeve sts + 2 raglan sts onto a holder.
7.  Cast on **14 sts** (underarm).
8.  Knit 1 (remaining raglan st), Knit **60** Front sts.

**Stitch Count Verification:**
*   Left Front: 60 + 1 (raglan) = 61.
*   Underarm: 14.
*   Back: 1 + 118 + 1 = 120.
*   Underarm: 14.
*   Right Front: 1 + 60 = 61.
*   **Total Body Stitches:** 61 + 14 + 120 + 14 + 61 = **270 sts**.

#### 3. Main Body
Continue working back and forth in Garter Stitch (Knit every row) on these 270 sts.

Work straight until the piece measures **75 cm** from the underarm, or to your desired length. (Remember the coat will stretch slightly when worn).

**Cast Off:**
Cast off all stitches loosely knitwise on a WS row to maintain the garter ridge at the edge.

#### 4. Sleeves
Transfer the **98 sts** (96 sleeve + 2 raglan) from one holder onto 4.5 mm needles (DPNs or circulars for magic loop).

**Round 1 (Set Up):** Pick up and knit **7 sts** from the centre of the underarm cast-on, knit across the 98 sleeve sts, pick up and knit **7 sts** from the remaining half of the underarm. Place marker for beginning of round.
*[Validation: 98 + 7 + 7 = 112 sts]*

Work in **Garter Stitch in the Round**:
*   **Round 1:** Purl all sts.
*   **Round 2:** Knit all sts.

Work straight in this pattern for 5 cm (2 in).

**Decrease Round (Knit Round):** K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased).
*[Validation: 112 - 2 = 110 sts]*

Repeat the Decrease Round every **10th round** (approx every 2.5 cm) a total of **12 times**.
*[Validation: 112 - (12 × 2) = 88 sts remaining]*

Continue straight until sleeve measures **43 cm** from underarm, or desired length.
Cast off loosely purlwise (on a Purl round) to blend with the texture.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

#### 5. Ribbing & Finishing
**Neck Band:**
Using 4.0 mm circular needles and with RS facing:
1.  Start at right neck edge. Pick up and knit approx **10 sts** down the right front neck slope, **34 sts** across the back neck (original cast on edge), and **10 sts** up the left front neck slope.
    *(Aim for approx 54-60 sts total. The number isn't fixed, but ensure it is an even number).*
2.  Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1*, repeat to end.
3.  Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1*, repeat to end.
4.  Repeat these 2 rows for 3 cm. Cast off in rib.

**Front Bands (Left and Right):**
*Note: Because there is no collar, the bands run vertically from the hem up to the top of the neckband you just created.*

Using 4.0 mm circular needles and with RS facing, start at the bottom hem of the Right Front.
1.  Pick up and knit stitches along the front edge at a ratio of **1 stitch for every 2 rows (1 ridge)**.
    *(Example: If your coat is 80 cm long = 320 rows. Pick up approx 160 sts).*
2.  Work in K1, P1 rib for 4 cm.
3.  Cast off firmly in rib.

Repeat for the Left Front.

#### 6. Assembly
1.  Weave in all ends securely.
2.  Sew the poppers (snaps) onto the button bands. Place the first one 2 cm down from the neck edge, and space the others evenly down the front (approx every 10–12 cm).
    *   *Tip: Ensure the "stud" part of the popper is on the top flap (Right Front for women's wear usually, but unisex applies) and the "socket" is on the under flap.*
3.  Wet block the coat. Lay it flat and shape it to the dimensions (133 cm bust circumference). Allow to dry completely.