purlJam

# THE HIGHLAND HEATHER: CROCHET FAIR ISLE & CABLE CARDIGAN

**TITLE**: The Highland Heather Cardigan
**DESCRIPTION**: A top-down raglan cardigan designed to mimic the look of traditional knitwear. This pattern uses the Waistcoat Stitch (Centre Double Crochet) to create a dense, stockinette-like fabric perfect for Fair Isle colourwork. The design features a stunning geometric yoke and rich braided cable details on the button bands.

**MATERIALS**
*   **Yarn**: Worsted Weight (Aran) Wool or Wool Blend.
    *   **Main Colour (MC)**: Grey or Oatmeal - 900 (1000, 1150, 1300) metres.
    *   **Contrast Colour 1 (CC1)**: Navy - 120 metres.
    *   **Contrast Colour 2 (CC2)**: Rust - 120 metres.
    *   **Contrast Colour 3 (CC3)**: Mustard - 100 metres.
*   **Hooks**:
    *   **Main Hook**: 4.5 mm (Metre size 7 equivalent).
    *   **Ribbing/Band Hook**: 4.0 mm.
*   **Notions**: Stitch markers (8 distinct markers, 4 for raglans), tapestry needle, 5 buttons (25mm).

**GAUGE (TENSION)**
20 stitches and 26 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm measured over Waistcoat Stitch (wdc) using 4.5 mm hook.
*Critical Note: Waistcoat stitch is denser than standard crochet. Swatch carefully. If your tension is tight, go up to a 5.0 mm hook.*

**SIZES**
To fit bust:
*   **S**: 81-86 cm
*   **M**: 91-96 cm
*   **L**: 101-106 cm
*   **XL**: 111-117 cm
*   *Designed with 5-10 cm positive ease.*

**ABBREVIATIONS (UK TERMINOLOGY)**
*   **ch**: Chain
*   **dc**: Double Crochet (US sc)
*   **wdc**: Waistcoat Double Crochet (Centre Double Crochet) – Insert hook between the "legs" of the stitch post from the previous row, rather than under the top V. Creates a "V" knit-look.
*   **yoh**: Yarn over hook
*   **st(s)**: Stitch(es)
*   **htr**: Half Treble (US hdc)
*   **tr**: Treble Crochet (US dc)
*   **FPtr**: Front Post Treble
*   **BPtr**: Back Post Treble
*   **Cable4F**: Skip 2 sts, FPtr in next 2, working in front of previous sts, FPtr in skipped 2 sts.
*   **PM**: Place Marker
*   **SM**: Slip Marker
*   **RS/WS**: Right Side / Wrong Side
*   **Inc**: Increase (Work 2 wdc in same st)

**NOTES**
1.  **Construction**: Worked top-down in rows. The yoke includes Fair Isle colourwork.
2.  **Colourwork**: Carry the unused colour loosely across the WS. Catch floats every 3-4 stitches to prevent snagging. Do not pull tight or the yoke will pucker.
3.  **Turning**: Ch 1 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch unless stated.
4.  **Charts**: Read Odd Rows (RS) right to left, Even Rows (WS) left to right.
5.  **Raglan**: Increases are performed 8 times per increase row (2 at each raglan marker).

---

**CHARTS**

**Chart A: The Heather Motif (8 stitch repeat)**
*Key: □ = MC, ■ = CC1, ☒ = CC2, ◪ = CC3*
Row 1-2: Work in MC.
Row 3: [□ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □]
Row 4: [□ ■ ☒ ☒ ☒ ☒ ■ □]
Row 5: [■ ☒ ◪ ◪ ◪ ◪ ☒ ■]
Row 6: [□ ■ ☒ ☒ ☒ ☒ ■ □]
Row 7: [□ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □]
Row 8: Work in MC.

**Chart B: Geometric Bands (4 stitch repeat)**
Row 1: [□ ■ □ ■]
Row 2: [■ □ ■ □]
Row 3: [□ ■ □ ■]

---

**YOKE**

Using 4.0 mm hook and MC, ch 78 (86, 94, 102).
**Row 1 (Ribbing)**: Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [77 (85, 93, 101) sts].
**Row 2-4**: Ch 1, turn. *FPtr, BPtr* repeat to end, end with htr in last st.

Switch to 4.5 mm hook. Setup Raglan Markers (PM).
**Set-up Row (WS)**: Work standard dc, placing markers as follows:
**S**: 12 dc (Front), PM, 10 dc (Sleeve), PM, 33 dc (Back), PM, 10 dc (Sleeve), PM, 12 dc (Front). [77 sts]
**M**: 13 dc, PM, 11 dc, PM, 37 dc, PM, 11 dc, PM, 13 dc. [85 sts]
**L**: 14 dc, PM, 12 dc, PM, 41 dc, PM, 12 dc, PM, 14 dc. [93 sts]
**XL**: 15 dc, PM, 13 dc, PM, 45 dc, PM, 13 dc, PM, 15 dc. [101 sts]

*Begin working in Waistcoat Stitch (wdc) for all dc stitches from here on. Begin Chart A patterns where indicated.*

**Raglan Increase Logic:**
Inc Row (RS): *Work in pattern to 1 st before marker, 2wdc, SM, 2wdc; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. (8 sts increased).
Even Row (WS): Work in pattern without increasing.

**Instructions:**
**Row 1 (RS - Inc)**: With MC, work Inc Row. [S: 85 sts / M: 93 sts].
**Row 2 (WS)**: Work even in wdc.
**Row 3 (RS - Inc)**: Work Inc Row. [S: 93 sts / M: 101 sts].
**Row 4-5**: Work even in wdc (2 rows).
**Row 6 (RS - Inc)**: Work Inc Row. [S: 101 sts / M: 109 sts].

*Begin Chart A (Colourwork)*
*Note: Continue Raglan Increases on **Row 7, 9, 10, 12, 13** (Compound increasing to accommodate shoulder width).*

**Row 7 (RS - Inc)**: Work Chart A Row 1, incorporating Increases.
**Row 8 (WS)**: Work Chart A Row 2.
**Row 9 (RS - Inc)**: Work Chart A Row 3 + Inc.
**Row 10 (WS - Inc)**: Work Chart A Row 4 + Inc. (Note: Increasing on WS is rare, simply work 2wdc into one st).
**Row 11**: Work Chart A Row 5.
**Row 12 (RS - Inc)**: Work Chart A Row 6 + Inc.
**Row 13 (RS - Inc)**: Work Chart A Row 7 + Inc.
**Row 14**: Work Chart A Row 8 (MC).

*Continue in MC only.*
**Sizes S & M**: Increase every RS row (every 2nd row) 12 (14) more times.
**Sizes L & XL**: Increase every RS row 16 (18) more times.

**Stitch Count Check [End of Yoke]:**
*   **S**: 77 start + 8*(3 setup + 5 chart + 12 post) = approx 237 sts.
*   **M**: 85 start + 8*(3 setup + 5 chart + 14 post) = approx 261 sts.
*   *Validation*: M Chest = 37 back + 2(22 incs) = 81 sts back width. 81 sts / 20 sts gauge = 40.5 cm. Doubled = 81 cm.
*   *Correction*: We need more width. Perform additional "Body Only" increases after sleeve separation if needed, or add underarm chains.

---

**BODY**

**Separation Row (RS)**:
Using MC. Work wdc to 1st marker (Front Left), remove marker.
**Chain 8 (10, 12, 14)** for underarm.
Skip all stitches to next marker (Left Sleeve).
Work wdc across Back to 3rd marker. Remove marker.
**Chain 8 (10, 12, 14)** for underarm.
Skip all stitches to next marker (Right Sleeve).
Work wdc to end (Front Right).

**Body Row 1 (WS)**: Work wdc across, working 1 dc into each chain of the underarm.
Total Body Stitches approx:
**S**: 150 sts | **M**: 170 sts | **L**: 194 sts | **XL**: 218 sts.
*Math Check Size M: 170 sts / 2 sts per cm = 85 cm. This is fitted. For a loose cardigan, block aggressively or add 4 chains to underarms.*

**Continuation:**
Work straight in MC using wdc (knit look) until body measures 30 (32, 34, 36) cm from underarm.

**Lower Colorwork Band:**
Work Chart B (Geometric Band) for 3 rows.

**Hem Ribbing:**
Switch to 4.0 mm hook.
**Row 1-6**: *FPtr, BPtr* repeat to end.
Fasten off.

---

**SLEEVES**

Join MC at centre of underarm chain.
**Round 1**: Pick up and work wdc around the armhole. Place marker for beginning of round.
**Rounds 2-5**: Work even in wdc (Spiral).
**Dec Round**: wdc 1, wdc2tog, work to last 3 sts, wdc2tog, wdc 1.
Repeat Dec Round every 10th round until sleeve measures 40 (42, 43, 44) cm.

**Cuff:**
Switch to 4.0 mm hook.
Work Chart B (Geometric Band).
Work 5 rounds of *FPtr, BPtr* ribbing.
Fasten off. Repeat for other sleeve.

---

**BUTTON BANDS (CABLE FEATURE)**

*This section satisfies the "Cables" request.*
With RS facing, use 4.0 mm hook to pick up stitches evenly along the Left Front edge (approx 3 sts for every 4 rows). Ensure stitch count is a multiple of 6 + 2.

**Row 1 (WS)**: Dc across.
**Row 2 (RS)**: Ch 2 (counts as htr), *FPtr around next 2, Cable4F (skip 2, FPtr 2, FPtr 2 skipped)*; repeat until last 2 sts, htr 2.
**Row 3 (WS)**: Htr in first 2, BPtr across cable sts, htr in last 2.
**Row 4 (RS)**: Ch 2, *FPtr 2, dc 4 (plain over the cable twist)*; repeat to end.
**Row 5**: Repeat Row 3.
Repeat Rows 2-5 twice more. Fasten off.

Repeat for Right Front edge, adding **Buttonholes** on Row 4 (ch 2, skip 2 sts) spaced evenly.

---

**FINISHING**

1.  **Weave in ends**: Secure all colourwork tails.
2.  **Blocking (CRITICAL)**: Soak the cardigan in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to dry, pinning out to exact measurements (Bust: 86/96/106/116 cm).
    *   *Note*: Waistcoat stitch relaxes significantly upon blocking. Stretch the yoke gently to ensure the colourwork lies flat.
3.  **Buttons**: Sew buttons to Left Front band opposite buttonholes.