purlJam

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# 🦑 THE IRON ABYSS TENTACLE
### A Deep-Sea Horror Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

*"Something vast and patient stirs beneath the black water. Only its reaching arm has found you."*

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## AT A GLANCE

| | |
|---|---|
| **Difficulty** | Beginner (with one special stitch) |
| **Finished Size** | Approximately 7 inches (18 cm) long when relaxed; curl brings it to about 5 inches (13 cm) resting |
| **Yarn Weight** | Worsted Weight (4) |
| **Hook Size** | US G-6 / 4.0 mm |
| **Technique** | Amigurumi in continuous rounds |

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## MATERIALS

- **Color A — Abyssal Black**: Worsted weight yarn, approximately 25 yards (23 m)
  *(Suggested: near-black with subtle dark blue or purple undertone — e.g., Caron Simply Soft "Blackberry" or Lion Brand Wool-Ease "Black")*
- **Color B — Burgundy Deep**: Worsted weight yarn, approximately 20 yards (18 m)
  *(Suggested: deep wine or dark burgundy — e.g., Lion Brand Heartland "Grand Canyon" or Red Heart Soft "Wine")*
- **Color C — Deep Red**: Worsted weight yarn, approximately 15 yards (14 m)
  *(Suggested: dark crimson or rust red — e.g., Caron Simply Soft "Autumn Red" or Lion Brand Pound of Love "Scarlet")*
- **Optional — Ocean Base**: Approximately 20 yards (18 m) of dark teal or deep ocean blue-green worsted yarn
  *(Suggested: Caron Simply Soft "Cool Green" darkened with a variegated ocean yarn, or Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend "Dusty Teal")*
- **Hook**: US G-6 / 4.0 mm crochet hook
- **Stuffing**: Small amount of polyester fiberfill
- **Stitch Markers**: 3 locking stitch markers (or safety pins); one each for: round start, Inner Center stitch, Outer Center stitch
- **Yarn Needle**: For weaving in ends and optional assembly
- **Scissors**

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## GAUGE

**4 sc × 4 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm)** worked tightly in continuous rounds.

> **Gauge Note:** Amigurumi relies on tight gauge to prevent stuffing from showing through. If your stitches look open or loose, go down to a US F-5 / 3.75 mm hook. Gauge affects finished size but not pattern structure — a slightly smaller tentacle is perfectly fine.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **inc** | increase — work 2 sc into the same stitch |
| **dec** | invisible decrease — insert hook into front loops of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both front loops, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook |
| **ch** | chain |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd** | round |
| **[ ]** | stitch count at end of round |
| **Bob** | Bobble stitch — see Special Stitch below |
| **MR** | magic ring |
| **BLO** | back loop only |

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## SPECIAL STITCH — THE SUCTION CUP BOBBLE (Bob)

This is the only non-standard stitch in the pattern. Take a moment to practice it before you begin.

**3-Double Crochet Bobble (worked in 1 stitch):**

1. Yarn over (yo), insert hook into the indicated stitch.
2. Yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
3. Yo, pull through the first 2 loops only (2 loops remain on hook).
4. **Without finishing**, yo, insert hook into the **same** stitch again.
5. Yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
6. Yo, pull through the first 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
7. **Without finishing**, yo, insert hook into the **same** stitch one more time.
8. Yo, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).
9. Yo, pull through the first 2 loops only (4 loops on hook).
10. Yo, pull through **all 4 remaining loops** at once — bobble complete!
11. Ch 1 to secure (this chain does **not** count as a stitch).

> **Counts as:** 1 stitch. The bobble pops out on the **opposite** side from where your hook is working. Make sure you are crocheting so the bobble pops toward the **outside** of the tentacle (away from you as you work).
>
> **Beginner Tip:** The bobble may feel stiff and awkward the first time — that is normal! Give it a little pinch from the back when you finish to help it pop outward into a round suction-cup shape.

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## UNDERSTANDING THE CURL TECHNIQUE

This pattern uses **asymmetric increases** to create the tentacle's natural curl. You do not need to work any special rows — just follow the instructions exactly.

The tube is divided into two sides:
- **Inner Side (Underside)** — This is where the suction cup bobbles live. This side stays relatively narrow throughout.
- **Outer Side (Topside)** — This is where extra increases are added. As this side grows wider than the inner side, the whole piece is forced to curve inward, creating the spiral curl.

**To set this up easily:**
- When you complete Round 1, place a **green stitch marker** in the 2nd stitch (this will track your Inner Center stitch).
- Place an **orange stitch marker** in the 5th stitch (this will track your Outer Center stitch).
- Move both markers up each round as you pass them.

The bobbles are worked into or near the Inner Center stitch. The increases are worked into or near the Outer Center stitch. It sounds more complex than it is — each round tells you exactly what to do.

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## COLOR GRADIENT GUIDE

Work the tentacle from **tip to base**. The tip (where you start) is the reaching, grasping end, and it glows with deep red. As the tentacle thickens toward its unknowable root, it darkens into shadow.

| Rounds | Color | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Rounds 1–10 | **Color C** (Deep Red) | The reaching tip |
| Rounds 11–20 | **Color B** (Burgundy) | The middle body |
| Rounds 21–28 | **Color A** (Abyssal Black) | The abyssal base |

**How to change colors:** At the end of the last round of each color, complete your final sc until 2 loops remain on hook, then pull your new yarn color through those 2 loops to finish the stitch. Continue with the new color. Weave in ends as you go.

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## THE TENTACLE PATTERN

### SETUP — PLACING YOUR MARKERS

Before Round 1, have your 3 stitch markers ready:
- **Marker 1 (Round Marker):** Tracks the beginning of each round. Place after completing Round 1.
- **Marker 2 (Inner Center):** Place in stitch 2 of Round 1. Move up each round.
- **Marker 3 (Outer Center):** Place in stitch 5 of Round 1. Move up each round.

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### THE TIP (Rounds 1–2)
*Color C — Deep Red*

**Round 1:** MR, work 6 sc into magic ring. Pull ring closed. [6]

> Place Marker 1 in the last stitch of this round (or between rounds). Place Marker 2 in stitch 2. Place Marker 3 in stitch 5.

**Round 2:** Sc in each st around. [6]

> Move Markers 2 and 3 up to the corresponding stitches in this round (stitch 2 and stitch 5).
>
> **At the end of every round from here forward, move your markers up to the next round's stitch 2 and stitch 5 (counting from your round marker).**

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### SECTION 1 — THE AWAKENING (Rounds 3–10)
*Color C — Deep Red*

Begin working asymmetric increases and suction cups. Read each round fully before you begin it.

**Round 3 (Increase Round):**
Sc in st 1. Sc in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in st 3. Sc in st 4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center — work 2 sc here). Sc in st 6. [7]

> The Outer Center marker now sits in the **first** of the 2 increase stitches. As the outer side grows, your Outer Center marker tracks the middle of the outer arc.

**Round 4 (Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center — suction cup!). Sc in st 3. Sc in st 4. Sc in st 5. Sc in st 6. Sc in st 7. [7]

> Gently push the bobble to the outside of the work (away from you). Pinch it from the inside to help it round out. ✓ **Stitch count: 7**

**Round 5 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–3. Sc in st 4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–7. [8]

**Round 6 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [8]

**Round 7 (Increase + Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–8. [9]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 9** (Bobble does not add a stitch; increase adds 1)

**Round 8 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [9]

**Round 9 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–9. [10]

**Round 10 (Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–10. [10]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 10. End of Color C.** Change to Color B on the last pull-through of this round. Cut Color C leaving a 4-inch tail and weave in.

---

### SECTION 2 — THE DESCENT (Rounds 11–20)
*Color B — Burgundy*

The tentacle widens and darkens. The curl becomes more pronounced.

**Round 11 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–10. [11]

**Round 12 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [11]

**Round 13 (Increase + Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–11. [12]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 12**

**Round 14 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [12]

**Round 15 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–12. [13]

**Round 16 (Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–13. [13]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 13**

**Round 17 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–13. [14]

**Round 18 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [14]

**Round 19 (Increase + Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–14. [15]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 15**

**Round 20 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [15]

> **End of Color B.** Change to Color A on the last pull-through. Cut Color B, weave in end.

> **Stuff Now!** Before proceeding to Section 3, gently stuff the tentacle with a small amount of fiberfill. Use just enough to give the piece a slight firmness — overstuffing will prevent the natural curl. A pencil eraser or chopstick helps push stuffing into the tip.

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### SECTION 3 — THE ABYSS (Rounds 21–28)
*Color A — Abyssal Black*

The tentacle reaches its full girth and the darkness takes over.

**Round 21 (Increase Round):**
Sc in sts 1–4. **Inc** in st 5 (Outer Center). Sc in sts 6–15. [16]

**Round 22 (Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–16. [16]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 16**

**Round 23 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [16]

**Round 24 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [16]

**Round 25 (Bobble Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–16. [16]

**Round 26 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [16]

**Round 27 (Plain Round):**
Sc in each st around. [16]

**Round 28 (Bobble + Final Round):**
Sc in st 1. **Bob** in st 2 (Inner Center). Sc in sts 3–16. [16]

> ✓ **Final stitch count: 16. Total suction cup bobbles: 9.** ✓

---

### CLOSING THE BASE

Do **not** close the base completely — leave a small opening for two reasons: (1) it allows a final stuffing adjustment, and (2) if using the optional water base, the tentacle will be sewn on rather than independently closed.

**Option A — Standalone Tentacle (no base):**

Add final stuffing if needed. Then:

**Closing Round:** *dec* around until the opening is approximately 4–6 sts. Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle, draw through remaining loops, and pull tight. Weave in end securely from inside.

**Option B — With Optional Water Base (see below):**

Leave the base open with all 16 sts. Do not close. Proceed to the Optional Base pattern, then attach.

---

## OPTIONAL — THE DARK POOL BASE

*A small oval of ocean floor from which the tentacle emerges.*

**Materials:**
- Dark teal/ocean blue-green worsted yarn, approximately 20 yards (18 m)
- US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook (same as tentacle)
- Optional: a few yards of very dark navy or black for a surface slip-stitch detail

**Construction:**
The base is worked flat (not in the round) and is **not stuffed**.

**Foundation:** Ch 9.

**Round 1:** 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (this is the curved end), sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch (other curved end). Now work back along the **underside** of the foundation chain: sc in next 6 ch, sc in same st as your first 2 sc (the beginning). [18]
*(Note: You are working in an oval around the outside of the chain.)*

> Place your round marker here.

**Round 2:** Inc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, inc in next 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, inc in last st. [24]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 24**

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) in next 2 sts' worth [sc, inc, sc, inc], sc in next 6 sts, (sc, inc) × 3, sc in next 6 sts, sc, inc. [30]

> ✓ **Stitch count: 30**

**Round 4:** Sc in each st around, working in **BLO** (back loop only) for a subtle ripple effect. [30]

**Round 5:** Sl st in each st around. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Optional Texture Detail:** Using a very dark navy or black yarn threaded on your yarn needle, embroider 2–3 wavy lines across the surface of the base using a running stitch to suggest dark water rippling across the ocean floor.

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### ATTACHING THE TENTACLE TO THE BASE

1. Position the open base of the tentacle near the **center** of the water base oval.
2. Pin in place. The tentacle should appear to be rising up from the center of the pool, curling away in whichever direction pleases you.
3. Using Color A yarn and a yarn needle, whip stitch the open edge of the tentacle base (all 16 sts) to the surface of the water base.
4. Before closing completely, add any final stuffing through the gap.
5. Complete the whip stitch and weave in all ends.

---

## FINISHING & SHAPING

**Curl Enhancement:** If your tentacle has not curled as dramatically as you like, you can encourage it:
- Gently but firmly roll the tentacle around a marker, pencil, or your finger in the direction of the curl.
- Hold for 30 seconds.
- Spritz lightly with water and allow to dry in position.
- A small piece of craft wire (chenille stem/pipe cleaner) inserted into the tentacle before the last round closes will allow you to pose the tentacle in any shape permanently.

**Suction Cup Enhancement (Optional):** Using a small amount of Color C (deep red) threaded on your yarn needle, make a tiny French knot in the center of each bobble to add depth and detail to the suction cups.

**Weaving Ends:** All yarn ends should be woven in on the **inside** of the tentacle. Thread the end on your yarn needle and weave in a Z-pattern through the stuffing/interior stitches at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in two directions before trimming.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
      TIP (Deep Red)            BASE (Abyssal Black)
        ●                       ████████
       ●●●    ←suction cups→   ████████████████
      ●●●●●                    ████████████████████
     ●●●●●●   the tentacle     ████████████████████████
    ●●●●●●●   curls this way → ████████████████████████████
              ↓ (inner side)
```

*Inner side (suction cups, flat): stays narrow*
*Outer side (increases): grows wider, forcing the curl*

---

## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Round | Color | Notes | Count |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | C | Magic ring, 6 sc | [6] |
| 2 | C | Plain | [6] |
| 3 | C | Inc at Outer Center | [7] |
| 4 | C | **Bob** at Inner Center | [7] |
| 5 | C | Inc at Outer Center | [8] |
| 6 | C | Plain | [8] |
| 7 | C | **Bob** + Inc | [9] |
| 8 | C | Plain | [9] |
| 9 | C | Inc at Outer Center | [10] |
| 10 | C → B | **Bob** at Inner Center | [10] |
| 11 | B | Inc at Outer Center | [11] |
| 12 | B | Plain | [11] |
| 13 | B | **Bob** + Inc | [12] |
| 14 | B | Plain | [12] |
| 15 | B | Inc at Outer Center | [13] |
| 16 | B | **Bob** at Inner Center | [13] |
| 17 | B | Inc at Outer Center | [14] |
| 18 | B | Plain | [14] |
| 19 | B | **Bob** + Inc | [15] |
| 20 | B → A | Plain | [15] |
| 21 | A | Inc at Outer Center | [16] |
| 22 | A | **Bob** at Inner Center | [16] |
| 23 | A | Plain | [16] |
| 24 | A | Plain | [16] |
| 25 | A | **Bob** at Inner Center | [16] |
| 26 | A | Plain | [16] |
| 27 | A | Plain | [16] |
| 28 | A | **Bob** at Inner Center | [16] |

**Total Bobbles (Suction Cups): 9** ✓
**Total Outer-Side Increases: 10** ✓ *(producing the curl)*

---

## DESIGNER NOTES & TIPS

> **Why does mine not curl?** Make sure you are truly increasing **only** on the outer side and **not** accidentally adding increases elsewhere. If in doubt, count your stitches every round against the table above.

> **My bobbles are not popping out.** Try working the bobble more loosely so the loops have room to bunch up. After completing the bobble and the securing ch-1, use your fingernail or a blunt pen to press the bobble outward from inside the tentacle.

> **The stuffing shows through.** You are working too loosely. Try going down one hook size to a US F-5 / 3.75 mm. This will make a slightly smaller tentacle but with a denser fabric.

> **Make a cluster of tentacles!** Three or four tentacles in different lengths — add extra plain rounds in Section 3 for longer variants — sewn to a single larger water base oval creates a horrifying display piece. Stagger the curl directions (some curling left, some right, one reaching straight up) for maximum eldritch effect.

> **Yarn substitutions:** Any dark, slightly matte worsted yarn reads best for this horror aesthetic. Avoid very shiny or fluffy yarns — the suction cup texture will be lost. A yarn with subtle texture (like a tweed or marl) adds depth to the gradient.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| Length (relaxed/uncurled) | ~7 inches | ~18 cm |
| Length (resting/curled) | ~4–5 inches | ~10–13 cm |
| Width at base | ~1.25 inches | ~3 cm |
| Width at tip | ~0.5 inches | ~1.3 cm |
| Optional Base (oval) | ~4 × 3 inches | ~10 × 7.5 cm |

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*Pattern designed for personal use and gift-giving. Please do not resell finished items made from this pattern commercially without permission. Feel free to share your finished tentacles — tag your creation and describe what you heard in the dark water.*

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**🦑 Happy (and horrifying) crocheting! 🦑**