purlJam

# The Obsidian Slipover - Complete Pattern Development





<pattern>

# THE OBSIDIAN SLIPOVER

An elegant slipover featuring sophisticated saddle shoulders and a delicate V-neckline finished with a silk mohair tie. The slightly oversized fit and architectural saddle detail create a beautiful contrast to the feminine tie. Double-knit edges provide a polished finish throughout.

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate (involves double-knit edges, saddle shoulder construction, and working both flat and in the round)

---

## SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Chest Circumference:** 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" [86 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm]

**To Fit Chest:** 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52)" [76-81 (86-91, 96.5-101.5, 106.5-112, 117-122, 127-132) cm]

**Recommended Ease:** 2-4" (5-10 cm) positive ease

Sample shown in size S on 35" chest.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- **MC (Main Color):** Approximately 600 (700, 800, 900, 1000, 1100) yards [550 (640, 730, 825, 915, 1005) m] of sport weight yarn
- **CC (Contrast Color - Silk Mohair):** Approximately 50 (55, 60, 65, 70, 75) yards [45 (50, 55, 60, 65, 70) m] of lace weight silk mohair

Sample uses [Your Main Yarn] in [Color] and [Your Silk Mohair] in [Color].

**Needles:**
- US 5 (3.75 mm) circular needle, 32" length (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- US 5 (3.75 mm) circular needle, 16" length for neckline
- US 4 (3.5 mm) circular needle, 32" length for double-knit hems

Or size needed to obtain gauge.

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (6)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Blocking supplies

---

## GAUGE

**15 stitches × 20 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch with larger needles in MC, blocked

**Gauge is critical for proper fit.** Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.

### Gauge Swatch Instructions:
With larger needles and MC, cast on 24 sts. Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 5" (12.5 cm). Bind off. Block swatch, allow to dry, then measure. Count stitches and rows over 4" (10 cm) in the center of the swatch.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **CC** - contrast color
- **CO** - cast on
- **k** - knit
- **k2tog** - knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **m** - marker
- **MC** - main color
- **p** - purl
- **pm** - place marker
- **rem** - remaining
- **rep** - repeat
- **RS** - right side
- **sl** - slip
- **sm** - slip marker
- **ssk** - slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)** - stitch(es)
- **WS** - wrong side
- **yo** - yarn over

---

## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
This slipover is worked flat from the bottom up. The back is worked first with a double-knit hem and shaped with increases. The front is worked similarly with V-neck shaping that incorporates double-knit edges. After the V-neck is established, the piece is joined to work in the round. Saddle shoulders are worked separately and sewn in place. Armhole edges are finished with double-knit hems. Finally, stitches are picked up around the neckline to create the tie in silk mohair.

### Double-Knit Edge Tutorial
Double-knit edges create a clean, reversible finish. On RS rows: sl 1 wyib, k1; on WS rows: sl 1 wyif, p1. These 2 stitches create a doubled fabric edge.

### Stitch Pattern
**Stockinette Stitch (worked flat):**
- RS rows: Knit
- WS rows: Purl

**Stockinette Stitch (worked in the round):**
- All rounds: Knit

### Tips for Success
- Mark RS of fabric when working flat sections
- Count stitches regularly, especially when working double-knit edges
- Use stitch markers to track V-neck shaping
- Block pieces before seaming for best results
- The silk mohair tie is delicate; handle gently

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK & FRONT (measurements shown for size M):

        |--6"--|  (saddle)
    ____________
   |            |
   |            | 9" (armhole depth)
   |            |
   |____________|
   |            |
   |            | 15" (body length)
   |            |
   |____________|
        21"
   (half circumference)
   
FRONT V-NECK:
    |\        /|
    | \      / |
    |  \    /  | 6" (V-neck depth)
    |   \  /   |
    |    \/    |
```

**Key Measurements (all sizes):**

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|
| A - Chest circumference | 34" | 38" | 42" | 46" | 50" | 54" |
| B - Total length | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" | 27" |
| C - Armhole depth | 8" | 8.5" | 9" | 9.5" | 10" | 10.5" |
| D - Shoulder width | 5" | 5.5" | 6" | 6.5" | 7" | 7.5" |
| E - V-neck depth | 6" | 6.5" | 7" | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" |
| F - Saddle length | 10" | 11" | 12" | 13" | 14" | 15" |

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**Double-Knit Hem:**

With smaller needles and MC, CO 128 (143, 158, 173, 188, 203) sts.

*Verification: 34" × 3.75 sts/in = 127.5 ≈ 128 sts for XS ✓*

Setup Row (WS): Purl.

Begin double-knit hem:
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, sl 1 wyif; rep from * to end.
- Row 2 (WS): *P1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1-2 three more times (8 rows total).

Next Row (RS - joining row): *K2tog; rep from * to end. 64 (72, 79, 87, 94, 102) sts.

*Verification: 128 sts ÷ 2 = 64 sts for XS ✓*

**Body:**

Change to larger needles.

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until piece measures 2" (5 cm) from joining row, ending with a WS row.

**Increase for Body Shaping:**

Inc Row (RS): K2, m1R, knit to last 2 sts, m1L, k2. 2 sts increased.

Rep inc row every 10 (10, 10, 8, 8, 8) rows 3 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) more times. 72 (80, 89, 99, 108, 116) sts.

*Verification XS: 64 + (2 × 4) = 64 + 8 = 72 sts ✓*
*Verification M: 79 + (2 × 5) = 79 + 10 = 89 sts ✓*

Work even in stockinette until piece measures 14 (14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5)" [35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5, 42) cm] from joining row, ending with a WS row.

**Armhole Shaping:**

BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 64 (70, 77, 85, 92, 98) sts.

*Verification XS: 72 - (2 × 4) = 72 - 8 = 64 sts ✓*

Dec Row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 2 sts decreased.

Rep dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) more times. 58 (62, 67, 73, 78, 82) sts.

*Verification XS: 64 - (2 × 3) = 64 - 6 = 58 sts ✓*

Work even until armhole measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)" [15 (16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5) cm], ending with a WS row.

**Saddle Shoulder Placement:**

Next Row (RS): K14 (15, 17, 19, 21, 22) sts, place these sts on holder for left shoulder; BO center 30 (32, 33, 35, 36, 38) sts for back neck; k14 (15, 17, 19, 21, 22) sts for right shoulder, place on holder.

*Verification XS: 14