purlJam

# The Ossuary Shrug: A 3D Bony Rib Cage Cardigan
**Design by: Expert Pattern Designer & Technical Editor AI**
**Difficulty: Advanced**

This garment is a technical exploration of anatomical knitting. It uses traveling twisted stitches to create a literal rib cage that wraps from a central spine around to a sternum-inspired button band. The sleeves feature distinct humerus and forearm bone structures.

### I. SPECIFICATIONS
*   **Size:** Adult Female 38" bust (Finished garment: 40" / 101.5 cm).
*   **Gauge:** 18 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Reverse Stockinette stitch on US 8 (5 mm) needles.
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight (approx. 800–900 yards). A smooth, high-twist wool is recommended for bone definition.
*   **Needles:** 
    *   US 8 (5 mm) circular needles (32" or longer).
    *   US 8 (5 mm) DPNs or short circulars for sleeves.
    *   US 7 (4.5 mm) for ribbing.
*   **Notions:** 8 Stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for pattern repeats), scrap yarn, tapestry needle, 5-6 buttons (0.75").

### II. ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMINOLOGY)
*   **K1tbl:** Knit 1 stitch through the back loop (creates a raised "bone").
*   **P:** Purl.
*   **M1R / M1L:** Make one right / Make one left.
*   **1/1 RC (Right Cross):** Slip 1 st to CN, hold in back, K1tbl, then P1 from CN.
*   **1/1 LC (Left Cross):** Slip 1 st to CN, hold in front, P1, then K1tbl from CN.
*   **MB (Make Bobble):** (K1, yo, K1, yo, K1) in same stitch, turn, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog, P1, P2tog, turn, K3tog. (Used for joints).

### III. PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

#### 1. Neckline and Setup
Using smaller needles (US 7), cast on **74 sts**.
**Rows 1-4:** *K1, P1* ribbing. 
Switch to larger needles (US 8).
**Setup Row (WS):** P10 (Left Front), pm, P12 (Sleeve), pm, P30 (Back), pm, P12 (Sleeve), pm, P10 (Right Front).

#### 2. Raglan Yoke & The Rib Cage
The "Ribs" begin at the spine (Center Back) and travel outward. The Raglan increases occur every RS row.
**Row 1 (RS):** 
*   **Fronts:** K1tbl, P to marker, M1R, sm, K1tbl (raglan line).
*   **Sleeves:** M1L, K1tbl, P to 1 st before marker, K1tbl, M1R, sm, K1tbl.
*   **Back:** M1L, P10, [1/1 RC, P2, 1/1 LC] (Center Spine), P10, M1R, sm, K1tbl, M1L... (repeat for other side).

**Note on Bone Logic:** Every 4 rows, initiate a new "rib" by working a 1/1 RC or LC away from the central spine column. These twisted stitches must "travel" diagonally across the purl field.

**Continue Raglan Increases:**
*   Repeat increases every RS row **24 times** total.
*   **Total Stitches:** 74 + (24 * 8) = **266 stitches**.
*   *Validation:* Back = 78 sts, Fronts = 34 sts each, Sleeves = 60 sts each. (266 total).

#### 3. Sleeve Separation
**Next Row (RS):**
1.  Work across Right Front (34 sts).
2.  Place 60 Sleeve stitches on scrap yarn. Cast on 6 sts for underarm.
3.  Work across Back (78 sts), maintaining the traveling rib pattern.
4.  Place 60 Sleeve stitches on scrap yarn. Cast on 6 sts for underarm.
5.  Work across Left Front (34 sts).
*   **Total Body Stitches:** 34 + 6 + 78 + 6 + 34 = **158 sts**.
*   *Math Check:* 158 sts @ 4.5 sts/in = 35". *Correction:* To reach 40", increase 22 sts evenly across the first row after separation.
*   **Final Body Count:** 180 sts.

#### 4. The Body (The Rib Cage)
Work in Reverse Stockinette (P on RS, K on WS).
Maintain the "Ribs" (K1tbl lines) by moving them 1 stitch outward every RS row using 1/1 RC and 1/1 LC.
*   When a rib reaches the side "seam," terminate it.
*   Maintain the central spine column of 2 K1tbl stitches.
Work until piece measures 10" from underarm or desired "shrug" length. 
**Bottom Edge:** Switch to US 7 needles. Work 1" in K1, P1 ribbing. Bind off in pattern.

#### 5. Bony Sleeves (The Humerus and Radius)
Transfer 60 sts to DPNs. Pick up 6 sts from underarm. (66 sts).
**The Humerus (Upper Arm):**
1.  Center a "Bone" cable on the outside of the arm: **P10, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P10.**
2.  At the Elbow (9" from underarm): Work **MB (Make Bobble)** on the two K1tbl stitches to create the elbow joint.
3.  **Decrease Row:** Decrease 10 sts evenly around the elbow. (56 sts).

**The Radius & Ulna (Forearm):**
1.  Split the single bone into two: Work **1/1 LC, P2, 1/1 RC**.
2.  Maintain these two parallel "bones" until reaching the wrist.
3.  At the Wrist: Work **MB** on each bone line.
4.  Switch to US 7. Work 2" of K1, P1 ribbing. Bind off.

#### 6. Finishing (The Sternum)
**Button Band:**
With US 7 needles, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along the Front edges.
**Row 1-4:** Work in K1, P1 ribbing. On the Right Front (for women's), include 5 buttonholes evenly spaced by: *Yo, k2tog*.
**Row 5:** Bind off in ribbing.

### IV. TECHNICAL EDITING VERIFICATION
*   **Bust Check:** 180 sts / 4.5 gauge = 40" finished circumference. Perfect for 38" bust.
*   **Upper Arm Check:** 66 sts / 4.5 gauge = 14.6" circumference. Fits standard adult female upper arm with ease.
*   **Visual Logic:** By using K1tbl on a Purl background, the "bones" will stand approximately 2-3mm higher than the fabric, providing the requested 3D effect.

**Care:** Hand wash cold, dry flat to maintain the structure of the raised "bones."